Thank you for a great instructional vid on how to replace a hammer handle. I have two hammers that are in need of new handles and always wondered if it was something easy to do. Great vid!
Great job. Very useful knowledge that I could have used 45 years ago. You said that nobody is sure why the wedge on a claw hammer goes in at an angle. I'm not a hammerologist nor a metallurgist. However many years of fabrication have given me some insight. When making two objects fit together tightly you must insure to have as nearly to 100% fill as possible. Anything less and you leave room for expansion and contraction from temperature and humidity which will make short work of your new handle. One can easily see how you have reduced the unfilled area in the oval opening. With a rectangle opening you accomplish this by filling this area from corner to corner. First with the wood wedge corner to corner and then again with iron wedges to the opposite corners at right angles to the first wedge expanding the handle as deep into the corners as possible.
I have a very old, well-forged claw hammer head, probably about 70 years old, which sat around in the toolbox awaiting my attention. I'm now in the process of shaping the new, imported hickory handle (since such wood is not readily available in my country (Australia). The configuration of the head is unusual. The dimensions of the underside (handle insertion point) rectangle are 5/8" X 1", which is about the same as the wood of the new handle. But at the top where the wedges go in, the rectangle becomes 9/16" X 1 3/8". Therefore the aspect ratio is vastly different and requires a lot of splaying of the wood in the direction of lengthwise along the rectangle rather than crosswise, the usual direction. In contrast the short dimension actually shrinks by 1/16". Very odd! It seems to me that this is an invitation for the wood to split, in order to accommodate this much readjustment to fill the aperture, to bend and increase 1" by 3/8", which is a big ask. In the light of the comments about corner to corner wedging, I am wondering if my solution should be to put in two wooden wedges at 45 deg. to that they form a parallelogram in the centre of the rectangular cross section and two corner triangles. It seems to me that this would put far less stress on the hickory to accommodate to this new shape. I'd be grateful for any suggestions or tips.
FINALLY! A clear, concise explanation of the hammer handle replacement. Thank you, nice job. My only question is my ball peen hammer seems to have different size openings and was wondering which is to the top? I will guess the larger goes to the bottom. Thanks again.
This is the first comment I've seen on RUclips that addresses the different size holes on the top and bottom of a hammer head. I've rehandled a coupe of claw hammer heads, which have definite tops and bottoms. The larger holes were on bottom.
I believe you may have had your hammer head upside down. If the eye is tapered, the larger opening goes down first to fit the taper of the handle. If your head was symmetrical, I'll just be quiet.
I've been trying to find guidance for this. My thinking was the larger opening should be on the top, so when you drive the wedges it expands the wood so that the handle cannot slip off. But I've seen several videos that state the waist is narrow and the openings are the same. I would love to get clarification on this.
It's a tool ......not a beauty queen. Maybe we are just too used to seeing those perfectly fit units from a factory where all they do is fit handles all day? Mine usually look someplace in between! I like the cheap and cheerful, thanks Jon. You keep up the good work, what a great organization. MZ
Is this bloke for real? The top of the hammer head had huge gaps where the shaft came through and then he used a wood rasp to clean up the steel wedges and the top of of the steel hammer.
13:02 I highly don't recommend this type of test. Use the hammer for a few weeks and then if the handle becomes lose absolutely go back and tighten it up.
I appreciated your right next to the textbook hammerhead handle replacement. Excellent presentation.
Great video! Very comprehensive and clear! Thank you!
An excellent how to video, clear explanation and easy to follow. Thank you.
Thank you for a great instructional vid on how to replace a hammer handle. I have two hammers that are in need of new handles and always wondered if it was something easy to do. Great vid!
Great job. Very useful knowledge that I could have used 45 years ago. You said that nobody is sure why the wedge on a claw hammer goes in at an angle. I'm not a hammerologist nor a metallurgist. However many years of fabrication have given me some insight. When making two objects fit together tightly you must insure to have as nearly to 100% fill as possible. Anything less and you leave room for expansion and contraction from temperature and humidity which will make short work of your new handle. One can easily see how you have reduced the unfilled area in the oval opening. With a rectangle opening you accomplish this by filling this area from corner to corner. First with the wood wedge corner to corner and then again with iron wedges to the opposite corners at right angles to the first wedge expanding the handle as deep into the corners as possible.
I have a very old, well-forged claw hammer head, probably about 70 years old, which sat around in the toolbox awaiting my attention. I'm now in the process of shaping the new, imported hickory handle (since such wood is not readily available in my country (Australia). The configuration of the head is unusual. The dimensions of the underside (handle insertion point) rectangle are 5/8" X 1", which is about the same as the wood of the new handle. But at the top where the wedges go in, the rectangle becomes 9/16" X 1 3/8". Therefore the aspect ratio is vastly different and requires a lot of splaying of the wood in the direction of lengthwise along the rectangle rather than crosswise, the usual direction. In contrast the short dimension actually shrinks by 1/16". Very odd! It seems to me that this is an invitation for the wood to split, in order to accommodate this much readjustment to fill the aperture, to bend and increase 1" by 3/8", which is a big ask. In the light of the comments about corner to corner wedging, I am wondering if my solution should be to put in two wooden wedges at 45 deg. to that they form a parallelogram in the centre of the rectangular cross section and two corner triangles. It seems to me that this would put far less stress on the hickory to accommodate to this new shape. I'd be grateful for any suggestions or tips.
I like the disreputable pot of linseed oil!
i know Im quite off topic but do anyone know a good place to watch new tv shows online ?
I’m going to call my next band BALL PAIN HAMMER.
I never saw your band's name ever make the top 20 hits.
best hammer handle vid out there! thanks man
FINALLY! A clear, concise explanation of the hammer handle replacement. Thank you, nice job. My only question is my ball peen hammer seems to have different size openings and was wondering which is to the top? I will guess the larger goes to the bottom. Thanks again.
This is the first comment I've seen on RUclips that addresses the different size holes on the top and bottom of a hammer head. I've rehandled a coupe of claw hammer heads, which have definite tops and bottoms. The larger holes were on bottom.
I believe you may have had your hammer head upside down. If the eye is tapered, the larger opening goes down first to fit the taper of the handle. If your head was symmetrical, I'll just be quiet.
I've been trying to find guidance for this. My thinking was the larger opening should be on the top, so when you drive the wedges it expands the wood so that the handle cannot slip off. But I've seen several videos that state the waist is narrow and the openings are the same. I would love to get clarification on this.
Larger side of the hammer head hole to the top as per a old blacksmith.
Engineering oil? What’s that?
Second time through he called it engine oil.
It's a tool ......not a beauty queen. Maybe we are just too used to seeing those perfectly fit units from a factory where all they do is fit handles all day? Mine usually look someplace in between! I like the cheap and cheerful, thanks Jon. You keep up the good work, what a great organization. MZ
Should use a wooden mallet to drive timber wedge, not a metal hammer!!
phrasing
Is this bloke for real? The top of the hammer head had huge gaps where the shaft came through and then he used a wood rasp to clean up the steel wedges and the top of of the steel hammer.
That space will be filled when the wedge is put in. The hole in the hammer head has a waist at it's center.
He was filing the the top of the hammer with a wood rasp !
HELLO ! !
Well, he can use what ever the fuck he wants to do that. I don't care but that would not be a choice of mine.
He broke the wedge off knocking it in.
kaxitaksi . Ha!
13:02 I highly don't recommend this type of test. Use the hammer for a few weeks and then if the handle becomes lose absolutely go back and tighten it up.
Terrible work ! The wooden wedge must be tapered both ways so it fills the eye ,Also dipped in linseed oil beforehand--which nobody does now . Joker .
jon yoda I do!