4K vs 2K - Elegoo Mars 3 vs Elegoo Mars 2 Pro - Resin 3D Printing
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- 4K vs 2K Resin 3D Print Compare between Elegoo Mars 3 vs Elegoo Mars 2 Pro vs Elegoo Mars Pro - Resin 3D Printer Showdown!
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#ElegooMars3 #3DPrinting #UncleJessy
Quick Links
0:00 - Intro to 2K vs 4K printing
1:11 - Resin Print Cleanup
2:11 - Test Overview
2:40 - Elegoo Mars Pro Results 0.05
3:30 - Loot-Studios File Overview
3:45 - Elegoo Mars 2 Pro Results 0.05
3:58 - Elegoo Mars 3 Results 0.05
4:20 - 0.05 Print Compare
4:45 - 0.05 Chitubox Resin Settings
5:05 - Elegoo Mars 2 Pro Results 0.03
5:33 - Elegoo Mars 3 Results 0.03
6:36 - 0.03 Print Compare
7:05 - 0.03 Chitubox Resin Settings
7:17 - Elegoo Mars 2 Pro Results 0.01
8:02 - Elegoo Mars 3 Results 0.01
8:55 - Archvillain Games Dino Bust
10:22 - ChitiStl Doctor Strange Figure
11:40 - Patreon Supporter Shoutout
11:53 - Wrap Up 
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Will be looking into some sort of microscope camera setup so we can see some extreme details. Also my print cleanup skills... woof. 3D Printed Photobooth coming up later this week
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Yes, a microscope will help greatly. I'm sure you've done your research, but a scope with a 6-8 inch working distance works well.
I pre-ordered the Mars 3 specifically for the extra detail being a professional jeweler to reduce my polishing time.
Your videos have been a great help, thank you!
If you can't point out any difference between prints, which are visible with the bare eye, than what will differences only visible under a microscope be worth.
I know its extra time but if you just spray prime them in light grey then slap on a dark wash. All the details will pop out. I get the feeling you already know this and you've been told too many times and each time you're shaking your head saying, nobody got time for that lol
You can get a solid USB Endoscope for like $20. Looking to add them to my FDM printers to monitors the nozzle while printing.
Need Macro lens. No point making this video if you don't zoom in close than this😐 05/.03/.02 etc 2k/4k comparison is pointless at this distance. Miniatures🤧
I wish every other 3d printer reviewer would use gray resin for showing print quality and details. Well done! But i think high resolution photos would be better for comparison than videos.
I need some darker resin. Might try to further tint my grey resin. Although I do love printing with more pastel colors like Mint Green, Blues
@@UncleJessy Airbrush primer is another way.
@@freedom2663 Here another vote for priming miniatures (airbrush) and comparing them again. This is probably the way most people will use them, painted. Where just priming them is the most neutral state to compare details.
@@freedom2663 Give it a full zenithal highlight, and I think you'll see the differences in crispness the best.
I think it would be a great idea to prime the prints in black then highlight from above with white primer.. It really helps the details pop.
Without high resolution close-ups and white light we are unable to see details, so imagine comparing both prints. Don't think this really provides enough information.
I agree that the images aren't clear nor the comments by Mr. Jesse are exactly concrete. "Not seeing a massive difference..." Is not information I can do a lot with...
Yeah but don't you think that not seeing that much difference between the two printers is already good value in itself. So unless you need the slightly larger build plate or you need that extra speed the Mars 2 Pro could be enough... for now.
it seems that its a waste to buy 3 since i just cant see any diff...
Might not be seen right away but primer will show everything.
Great video! I think two things are contributing to the lack of substantial difference in detail as you go down to the .03 and .01 layer heights.
What I think is the most likely is that the resin is not tuned to that resolution. I ran into this problem back with my first resin printer, a B9 Creator v1.1 back in 2013. There was a bunch of guys on the B9 forums at the time playing around with adding more pigment to tune their resin to a specific layer height. The idea is that the thinner the layer height the more pigment you want to add. This would keep the light from scattering beyond the desired layer height and filling in/ washing out the detail on the layer before it. The problem with this is that if you add too much you will block too much light and it will not penetrate enough to bond the current layer to the one before it. So it took a long time to work out the correct amount of pigment to exposure time to layer height to maximize the surface detail.
I would bet that most resins on the market at the moment are tuned for around .5 layer height.
The second is that with a MSLA or DLP driven printer your smallest details are mostly bound to the x/y resolution. If you think about it in terms of building a ball out of lego, a 1x1 regular block is the x/y resolution. You can build the ball out of 1x1 flat blocks but you would only see a small increase of detail at the top and bottom of the ball, for the rest of the build you are doing three times the work with no benefit.
In theory, your layer height should be the same as the width of the pixels of the screen/projector.
I don’t know what that works out to for a 4k screen at that size but I would bet you ran into the resin tuning issue before you hit that sweet spot and that is a contributing factor to the lack of a substantial difference in surface detail from the mars 2 and the mars 3
What kind of pigment do you add to your resin?
If you want to get into 3D resin printing and trying it out a bit, just get the 2K version. Only get the 4K if you know that you will want to print a lot and you are somewhat of a 3D printing enthusiast. The reason why is because the 2K and 4K printers both have the exact same pixels/mm ratio which means they will print the same quality. The only difference is that the 4K version has a bigger screen and therefore bigger build plate, which allows you to print more in one go. But this is only really worth it if you are going to print a lot. Otherwise it's better to stick with the 2K version because the price difference is actually quite big. Look at Anycubic for instance. Anycubic Mono (2K) costs $190 but Anycubic Mono X (4K) costs over $500 and yet they have the exact same 0.05mm ratio. This is quite a big money difference, so that's why I say only buy the bigger 4K version if you know you are going to use it a lot.
The exact answer I was looking for...cheers 👊🏽👍🏽
I'd love to see some examples using and not using anti aliasing. I've not seen much talk about that feature and if/when/how to make the most of it.
You're probably not seeing any significant difference in detail because you aren't using the optimal resin for detail. A slower resin like Epax hard has a greater potential to retain detail than ABS like. Great testing, but probably not the best choice for resin.
exactly, I was actually expecting a test with a 4k resin or other brand that support better detail
Great review! Support removal looked a little rough. I like to after cleaning get some warm edging towards hot water and dunk the model in for a split second. This seems to soften the support to remove by hand.
Thank Jessy, as a total newbie to 3D printing who finally narrowed it down to this brand, this was exactly what I was looking for.
With the same settings why are the Mars 3 faster than the Mars 2 ? Lift Speed and Exposure are the same. That should be no difference in time.
Yeah I’m also wondering this. What is making the 3 faster?
possibly loads the layer data faster, I know on my m2p that sometimes just reading the layer data off of the USB takes a little longer if there are lots of models etc
Also, acceleration settings may be different
Unrelated, but I love your profile pic.
@@voldy3565 Thank you :)
finally a good review thank you so much Uncle jessy! Cant wait to get one of these.
thanks for checking it out. Honestly 2 or 3 are going to give you amazing prints
Thanks for the comparison, I'm really looking forward to my Mars 3 arriving, especially as I'm having issues with my Sonic Mini 4K at the moment.
I will wait for the Mars 3 Pro. Seems like Elegoo perfects their models in the Pro versions.
Thank you for doing all this work man really informative
Thanks for your hard work. I really appreciate it. Love your videos!
Appreciate you checking them out and leaving a comment
Cool video! Would be great to get an even closer up view. 10:52 something is off about the times: 2h4m at 0.05 should be about 3h30m at 0.03.
Great video Uncle Jessy and can't imagine all the work put into it, the slicing, printing, cleaning and curing! Thanks for the great content and neatly done comparison.
I can see the original Mars 1 owners thinking of getting their hands on the new Mars 3, but I suppose for Mars 2 owners, like myself, I haven't seen any massive differences aside for the cool aesthetics of the printer.
Also, REALLY happy to see Elegoo taking a stand and communicating with Chitu systems on all the Chitubox debacle. Now if more manufacturers could grow some balls and do the same, that would get Chitusystems to reconsider the awful locking up of their system.
I appreciate the amount of work you put into this video! VERY informative!!
Thanks for that! It was a fun one to produce! I need to give it another go soon
Wow, the print time difference is substantial. Happy to get that increase, even with the detail not being hugely different.
General questions that this video made me think of: Shouldn't there be a limit to how small your layer height can be based on what the Z stepper is electronically capable of producing? Conversely, what is the biggest layer height one can use without the UV light being incapable of fully curing the layer? (The second question is probably very much subjective to the resin being used and possibly the strength of the UV lights in a particular printer, but I imagine the Z stepper in the first question is probably pretty standard across makes/models.)
@Troll I had .04 in my head from when I still had a running CR-10, but regardless, I know the steppers have their own "resolution" as to how small a step the motor can move.
@@ackthbbft In photopolymer printers, as a rule, the platform moves 0.01 mm by one full step of the motor. For FDM printers, the Z-axis screw usually has a pitch of 8 mm, and for photopolymer printers - 2 mm.
Also, as the plate constantly changes direction and printers do not use ballscrew, there will always be a backlash. No one seems to mention it for some reason.
Hi great video, thanks for that. Question ... If I print with a 4k printer, do I need a 4k model for best results?
The Mars 2P prints almost always look better to me but maybe the supports just came off with less blemishes. I appreciate the videos Jessy!
Haha my support removal was pretty bad on these minis. Much better at cleanup on larger prints
@@UncleJessy no worries I figured you were getting tired.
Jessy love your videos, been a fan for 2 years almost!. With these prints with such a fine detail and so small layer heights i would like a clearer light and a better closeup i couldnt tell almost any difference between the different qualities. Please dont take this as a critique, its just a constructive opinion, love your content and positivity always!
I'm so thankful that you posted this video. I've been struggling for too long trying to work out which printer to buy, whether I should wait for the Mars 3 or get the Saturn. In theory, having the 4k screen over a larger area would mean washing out some of the details, but seeing the 2 Pro's 2k screen against the 3's 4k screen, and not being able to discern all that much difference really, just tells me that I could probably get the 2 Pro now and wait for them to upgrade the Saturn to an 8k screen later this year / early next year. Lol
Quick, someone please tell me if I should buy the Saturn or the Mars 2 Pro. The only reason I want the Saturn is so I can print bigger dragons for D&D but 99% of my resin printing will be 32mm mini's
Thanks Uncle Jessy always like the resin printer reviews and will look out for more resin tests things are changing so fast these days
they are wicked fast thats for sure
@@UncleJessy I got a Peopoly phenom L after watching your review but have not unpacked it yet .Any tips and tricks coming up I will be sure to watch :)
I am so excited to finally have these compared.
Hope you enjoy and thanks for checking it out
Based on that you were removing supports bare handed, you were doing it after curing?
I remove all of mine before curing while the resin is still soft, it reduces marks on the surface of the print.
Great video - Thanks for the comparison. Have you seen the mono screen upgrade for the Mars pro?
Totally unrelated, but your shirt prompted me to check- I live in Rochester too! I thought some of the stores you were at in your "10 things you can buy at [store]" videos looked a little familiar, but I just figured every Harbor Freight looked the same lol
Either way, the Mars 3 looks GREAT, I can't wait for it to come out! I was on the fence earlier, but after some spotty customer support from AnyCubic I'm convinced that it's time to grab a new printer.
Great video! I appreciate the screenshot of the print settings. However, Could you please share your advanced settings for those machines? Do you use the Anti-aliasing feature?
Honestly, I am more impressed by the printing results of the old models than by the Mars3, obviously if there is no need to contain the working time.
If you don’t prime or paint your prints, you won’t really notice the difference between them since all resins are semi translucent and that obscures details. But when you DO paint, the difference is massive. .01 virtually eliminates stair-stepping. Especially compared to .05.
But honestly, I can see stairstepping with my eyes, so I never print anything at .05.
Looks like your fdm printer needs some fine running for your signs which one was it. Good video like always keep it up
Could someone explain for me why there is a difference in print time between 2P and 3 if they're using the same print settings? Seems to me that if they have the same number of layers which take the same time per lay, and use the same lift speeds, shouldn't the overall speeds be the same?
thats what i want explained as well, because yes they should. if the settings are the same the movements should be the same.
Your videos are increasingly awesome and comprehensive.
You and danny are pretty much the people I owe my knowledge of 3d printing to, and I SUPER appreciate how you time index your videos in the description.
I would love to see some form of comparison between the two brands. Of Phrozen 4k mini and this. They're in direct competition.
What were the anti aliasing settings at my man? Probably doing a lot of work making the 0.05 and 0.03 on the Mars 3 look very similar
I would be interested to know the difference in price if you compared the consumables. Also how many print cycles before replacement.
Fingers crossed my displays continue to hold up. I’ve gone about a full year now on my 2 Pro without any displays needing to be replaced.
to compare properly we need close-ups and side to side on a slide .. I mean,the difference is so slight I just can't see any difference properly on a moving image .. but thanks for the compare-work.
Thank You for printing our Doctor Strange Chibi Uncle Jessy! Great Video!
Gotta paint him now
Unless you're casting then the only comparison that matters is one where the prints are primed. And then I'm sure then there will be no difference at all.
Also, not very often someone is going eye to eye with one of my prints. That time savings though is impressive
@@UncleJessy why is the 3 faster than the 2? The settings you used were the same.
@@UncleJessy Yes! Now that has got me intrigued :D As always thanks for your fantastic vids :)
The prints look amazing as expected! In most cases there’s no real reason to print lower layer height than your screens xy resolution, so for instance my Saturn xy is 47 um I think so I usually print at .4 to be just under because I prefer it but .5 is also so close to .47 so you could go with that as well. But .4 is just my preference because I prefer being just under.
Brilliant! I am even more excited for the Mars 3 as my first ever printer :) Thanks again :) as far as the bust goes you might notice the difference more with the .03 layers when putting paint on it. On the smaller scale ones it would be hard to see the difference..04 might be the sweet spot for everything :) Also I am shocked by the time difference between the Mars 2 Pro and the Mars 3. Its nuts I knew it would be faster but by that much is nuts.
Do you not use the warm water trick to soften supports before removing (before curing)? On pre-supported files I get from my Artisan Guild patreon subscription, I’ve never had to use tools to remove supports. They come off by hand super-cleanly with little to no visible evidence where the supports were.
If you get your settings just right the miniature is still slightly pliable and the supports are really easy to remove, then you can cure it the rest of the way. The most likely reason you'd need tools to remove supports is that the part was cured before the supports were removed.
I do normally but didn’t want want to on these because the thin bits would come off or deform
is there a big difference between the mars 2 and the mars 2 pro.
Thank you very much for the insightful report! - I do have a follow-up question though. Now that Elegoo has released the "open source" files for the Mars 3, does this change the issue with the slicer restriction in any way?
I'm considering this printer (along with the Sonic Mini 4k) for the Black Friday, but I really don't like this kind of closed systems...
Hello there! I don't suppose you managed to get any reputable info on this? I'm looking at a printer, currently between the 2 Pro, the 3, or the saturn s (bit of an outlier, I know) but once again the restriction to chitubox might not be worth the increase in print speed.
Long time viewer first time commenter.
That was a really well put together video.
I like the idea of a micro lens.
Are you using "Macro" on your DSLR in this video?
gday from the land down under.
Great Vid!
Thanks bud for the tips on the photo booth!
This is a great printer. I bought a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K and the Mars 3 at the same time hoping to keep just one. The Sonic Mini 4K though was slightly better with details was also very inconsistent. I was only able to complete my prints 40% of the time and when they were completed there was missing parts off the print. The Mars 3 on the other hand has been extremely consistent. I'd say 90 to 95% of the time I've been able to get my prints and they've all been completed with out any parts missing. It's a work horse of a printer. Which is why I kept the Mars 3 and returned the Sonic Mini 4k. Now I can't wait for the Mars 3 Pro. Hope there's an 8K planned in the future.
I preordered a Mars 3.. I'm now leaning towards getting a Saturn since the print quality isn't much different. Any cons I am overlooking with getting a mid-size printer?
Were you able to pop open the side of the unit on the 2 and 3 and see if there's any major differences between the LED units on both machines? I've been wondering if the 4K screens are less transmissible at these pixel sizes. One of the common complaints about the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k is that presupported models at print times like to pancake (on mine, I need closer to 4s cure times to get reliable prints that should be printable on a 2K printer).
Hey Jessy, why do you use the same exposure time for the .05 and the .03? I always quicken my exposure time for the thinner layers that way its not so horribly long.
Have they improved their supply chain with this new model? Their customer support? Is the screen going to scratch really easily? Is the buildplate going to be flat? I am glad they paid you to advertise their machines, but I need a more critical view. Thanks for the video.
Great video!
Any chance we could get a comparison in speed & quality between the Mars 3 and the Saturn?
Will take a look at that. 110% sure the Mars prints significantly faster than the Saturn. But can look into it to see
@@UncleJessy Not if you fill up the build plate on the Saturn. The Saturn has 1.8X the build plate area of a Mars 3 so the Mars 3 would have to be ~1.8X quicker to match a Saturn single maximum throughput using a mag plate to quick change on the Mars 3.
So it's more complex than simply time per layer on different size printers... same size printers are directly comparable this way though.
Unsure why you need to actually run long prints. I'd time a few Exposure to Exposure times which should be the same and multiply by number of layers... then you know the time for all possible all layer heights.
Once you have this E2E time that's all you need to know to compare printer speeds ignoring build plate size.
Yes you need to add on the first layer(s) long exposures but on 1000+ layer prints it's insignificant + minute or two?
I've seen similar questions already posted, but with cures times that are around 4 times faster... how come we go from a 4hour something print on the Mars Pro to a 3 hour something print on the Mars 2 Pro?
What am I missing that prevents the print time of the Mars 2P from being at least half of the Mars P?
Because the main time per layer is the movement of the platform :) And it is the same for all printers with identical settings.
It would be nice to make the comparison between mars 2 pro and mars 3 with high resolution resin (like Siraya sculpt or phrozen 4k). I'm sure at that resolution the resin makes a big difference.
Yeah, the video as it stands now I think it actually does a disservice to the Mars 3. It presented like its just slightly faster and that's it! When I know for a fact that a 4K screen is a game changer for miniatures.
To my eyes, all the prints from the Mars 2 Pro looked crisper and cleaner.
It seems you did a better job of removing the supports from the Mars 2 pro prints compared to the Mars 3 ones - was this a result of human error or was there a discernible difference between the prints?
I will say that while I want a Mars 3, I cant seem to find any info on if it has the activated charcoal filter that the 2 Pro has, and if I bring a SLA printer into the apartment I need to have that for filtering out any fumes when the lid is on
It has enough room to put in 2x of the universal filters that charge via USB, but in my experience so far they only reduce the smell, not eliminate it.
Honestly, anything less than a .025mm layer height you will still have to deal with the .027 pixel size to begin with. You're getting better on one axis, but the other two axes are still the same
Hi, I'm looking at getting a resin 3D printer and am looking at either the Mars 2 pro or Mars 3 pro but I'm not sure which to go for. Is the Mars 3 pro worth the extra £100 or would the Mars 2 pro be good enough?
I’m assuming if you were just swapping from an ender 3 and getting into resin printing youd recommend the Mars 3?
Can resin printers be used for prototyping small structural parts as well? I am tired of fiddling with FDM printers for high resolution, and really like the comparatively easy setup and run for the resin based printers.
It would be interesting to see how the mars3 mamages flat surfaces. If they are in the wrong angle you get these rugular lines on flat surfaces which is due to a moiré-effekt resutling from the layer hight and the screen rsolution. I thought maybe the 4k screen might handle it better.
It would be nice to see the Elegoo Saturn in this same runoff. I expect that the 3 and Saturn would have similar print times and the same results, but confirmation would be nice.
Although both Saturn and Mars 3 are featuring 4k screens, the screen size difference means the pixels per inch on the Saturn is lower - resulting in a lower comparable resolution. Elegoo quotes the XY resolution of the Saturn @ 0.05mm vs the Mars 3 @ 0.035mm. So it depends on whether printing large/bulk medium resolution items factors into a buying decision vs the ultra fine potential detail of the Mars 3.
these all look pretty rough TBH, support cleanup should never be that difficult on Loot models in my experience they come right off the supports and don't leave all those nasty marks. I couldn't focus on any difference in print quality because all I could see was the rough cleanup.
Are the printer settings you are using specifically for the ABS like resin? Will the settings work with Mars2P using just plain old Elegoo gray resin? Thanks 😊
Hey Jessy. Where would the Saturn fall in between the Mars 2 pro and 3?
I was really interested in a comparison between 2k and 4k, but I have to agree with several comments. You should have made some high res pics for comparison.
Nevertheless, I was suprised by hte way faster printing time of the Mars 3.
hello great video a question the minimum resolution for the mas and the saturn? only 0.05? Thank you
I was really hoping for more stress testing comparisons of Mars Pro vs the new printers. This video didn't convince me to upgrade from my Mars Pro to any of the other two. 🤷🏼♂️
Random question, what, if any, effect does air temp have on printing? I have an FDM, and know that’s massively effected by surround air temp. So tempted to get into resin printing however, only place I can realistically do it is a brick shed outside, for reasons of fumes and noise. (Considering use of water washable resin as well to reduce smell and chemical use.)
A bit late, and not a full answer to your question, but in general, resin is definitely somewhat viscous, and lower temps will tend to make resin more viscous which you will want to avoid. If you live in an area that is consistently cold, I recommend having a space heater nearby to keep the space warm. I honestly recommend researching more since your needs will be more determined by the temperature of your area and the resin that you are using.
Hi, getting a Mars 3 soon, whats the setting on Chitbox to achieve the best results in printing 28mm figures?
Maybe another background color next time? The prints kinda blended into it. More contrast between prints and backdrop would be great.
This helped to compare the 2 I was looking at, now I got to decide on my first 3d printer, either Mars 2 Pro or Mars 3 ? $40 is the difference in the price I noticed right now, which is not a big difference in price for my self, I mostly want to print Anime type characters I make in 2d and turn them into 3d and print a bust of them or something like that, i am not in a hurry and maybe a holiday sale would be coming soon? Great video keep them coming
So which one did you decide to get? : )
I was expecting to be disappointed buying my Mars 2 Pro two weeks before the Mars 3 was available for pre-order, but I'm actually extremely happy I decided to jump the gun and get it second hand. The difference in print speed is impressive, but the detail level being very comparable doesn ot make me regret my investment one bit :)
Oh you wont regret it at all. The biggest jump is going from standard to one of the mono screens for print quality and print times. Mars 2 is such a good machine
That’s more use on your screen so you will have to replace it faster
Same here. I bought a Mars 2 last week.
I took apart my printer and added 3 strips of high output uv leds under my screen and turned my exposure time down from 8 seconds to 0.5 seconds. Worth a video.
variation in layer hight is rather moot, as this is just the resolution in *one of the three* axis (the z axis), you are still limited to the xy-resolution, wich is determined by the screen resolution.
Loot Studios makes amazing pre-supports. You should be able to save a ton of time by just submerging your prints for a few minutes in hot water. The supports will come right off with no resistance whatsoever and leave minimal marks on the model.
For the price difference for a new printer, any point going mars 3 or better to go mars 2 pro and learn ?
I was worried because the mars 3 was announced the day my mars 2 came in. Helps me sleep at night knowing I didn't waste any money!
Slightly larger build area and faster printing but as far as I can tell... just as good of prints which at the end of the day is most important. Yer gonna love that Mars 2
@@UncleJessy I really do. I am using it for making minis for my dnd group! I really want to make stuff like the Ironman helmet and stuff but I don’t think it’s possible on the Mars 2 pro. Would you recommend getting a filament printer for something like that or a bigger resin printer?
Uncle Jessy, can you do a comparison of Mars 3 with Saturn 4K? I'm weighing the pros and cons between the bigger print plate vs the better resolution in the former.
Will you do a comparison between the Prusa Sl1 and SL1s ? would be interesting
I'm torn on getting a larger printer or a Mars2 Pro.... I already have the Neptune 2 and it's wonderful; just looking for my 2nd.
@UncleJessy what makes printing faster on Mars3 than on Mars2Pro? you used the same profile, same layer height and same exposure time.
If the 2pro and 3 are using the same settings, how is the 3 faster?
Only makes sense if ones moving faster and or has shorter layer times.
If you wanto do comparisons prime them and put a wash paint on them or contrast paint that would show the detail and difference far better mate hope this helps
para ser mi primer impresora de resina esta bien la elegoo mars 3 ? verdad
I love it🔥💕👌👍
what we reallu need is a Sonic mino 4k vs Elegoo Mars 3!
Hi Uncle Jessy… Any chance you could make a review on the Creality Halot One? Or are you exclusive to Elegoo? TIA
I'd like to see a bigger print rather than a miniature. I don't see how you can really tell the detail comparison in something so small....especially for old eyes like mine. lol
I'm just starting to look into 3d printers. Do all of the mars3 prints look worse (more blemishes) to anyone else? I looked at other videos too and it always seems like the 4k models have way more blemishes. Can someone tell me why?
Is there any difference between the Mars 2 and Mars 2 Pro. Technical Specs on the website are identical.
Uncle Jessy, I KNOW you know about heating up prints, you used to use ultrasonics. 20 minutes to simmer a big pot of water, 20 minutes to throw the prints in a baggie and submerge them, and 3 minutes, tops, to remove the supports with much cleaner results than using snips.
How would the Anycubic Photon Mono 4k compare to this as beginner printer? I search a good beginner resin printer max 300€
They are similar but the support is rubbish. They will fob you off and leave you with a paperweight. Better to buy from a reputable company.
Please turn on the Closed Captions. It's only one button in RUclips Studio. Thank You. I have an ELEGOO Saturn. I'm curious to see what these are doing. I have not set up my Saturn yet. Brand New.
Get a m/43 sensor camera with macro lens. Job done for those details
and how can the 3 be faster than the 2 pro if you, as you said, used the same settings in chitubox? if you used the same exposure times..same lifting speeds both mono display printer should be print in the same time
Why is there such a difference in printing time between Mars 2 and Mars 3, if the settings for them were the same?