Loved the video. There's one thing you should add on the damper. Which is some sort of a screen. So you can prevent bugs and other critters from getting inside when it is open.
I like that generator setup. I find it neat that you put the damper and exhaust fan on thermostats that will activate when needed. I couldn't imagine how often that heat detector would go off without that vent system.
70ºF is not that warm! so, why is it too warm? good to see someone change ºC to F on YT, not many here on YT Do much Conversion's. I often need to do this, for the radio station when someone posts things in pounds or other currencies.
@@nics-systems-electric well right, but the temp inside that box should not be that warm ... I guess the Box is a bit small but the venting should have been sufficient... but then again, I have not been able to watch most of your videos on this, so I have just some idea of what you have in that Box!
@@thethirdrail8397 i have alarms that are set off once the temperature is over 35 degrees C so if I can I would prefer the building to be ventilated to keep the temperature down
@@nics-systems-electric 35ºC is around 90ºF! - I guess that is a small box, 70ºF plus the sun's rays yea maybe it does run hot. I did forget about the sun.
In regards to the issue of powering the dampers off the building AC supply and being reliant on a successful transfer to emergency power to ensure the damper opens I would say your best option would be to power it off DC from the generator battery. The datasheet of the LMB24-SR damper motor says it can accept 19.2 to 28.8 V DC so you could just use a little 12 V to 24 V DC-DC converter to power it from the generator starter battery, it's only 1.5 W when moving so the battery and maintenance charger could easy supply that. You should also be able to remove the relay by wiring it different, unfortunately at the moment I don't think you've wired it correctly. You seem to be applying 24 V AC across the Y and U terminals to open it, however only Y is used for control, U is an output for the position feedback signal. It previously opened when you connected it to the transformer because it was powering the Y control signal from the U output position signal through the winding of the transformer as you suspected. It goes to 50% because that's that point where the feedback signal matches the control voltage, likely about 5V. Also don't know about controlling it with 24 V directly, it likely does has input protection but it's not designed for continuously applying 24 V, just small transients, doing so will cause the internal protection components to overheat and fail over time. To solve this you can just use a 500 ohm resistor as the datasheet recommends, BELIMO even sells this as a pre-made heat shrunk cable, part number ZG-R01. But anyway this has been a cool project to follow!
An outside of temperature of 21 degrees should be just fine for your generator, i’d only be concerned about it if it’s 38 or above because your generator building is insulated. Here in Florida, especially after a hurricane passes, I see people running that kind of generator when it’s over 30 degrees with the sun beating down on it. I think your current setup is fine
The temperature outside is a lot higher inside an insulated building. The more temperature change the more fuel vapours will be vented into the building.
@@nics-systems-electric that is why the kind of generator you have is not permitted to be in a building like yours it has to actually be out side no building to protect it but we solved that issue just get a normal stand by generator from genarac or a number of companies that make them that come with a cabinet made of steel and are velatlated 24 7 with luver vents
You will go a long way as a controls electrician. Impressed by your knowledge and dedication at your age
I agree! Can’t wait to see how this goes.
The work you do is always worth my time as I watch you videos 😊
Yay! Imagine getting back home to germany from a vacation in the netherlands, and seeing a video notification, CUZ THATS WHAT JUST HAPPENED!
Loved the video. There's one thing you should add on the damper. Which is some sort of a screen. So you can prevent bugs and other critters from getting inside when it is open.
Wazzup!
In my country there just 22°C but that's a good idea for da homemade generator..
I like that generator setup. I find it neat that you put the damper and exhaust fan on thermostats that will activate when needed. I couldn't imagine how often that heat detector would go off without that vent system.
Hello Nic! Love the videos mate
hi , you can use small UPS for PC to emergency power this transformer :)
Good stuff Nic! Cheers
70ºF is not that warm! so, why is it too warm? good to see someone change ºC to F on YT, not many here on YT Do much Conversion's. I often need to do this, for the radio station when someone posts things in pounds or other currencies.
Outside temperature causes a higher inside temperature want to keep it cool as possible
@@nics-systems-electric well right, but the temp inside that box should not be that warm ... I guess the Box is a bit small but the venting should have been sufficient... but then again, I have not been able to watch most of your videos on this, so I have just some idea of what you have in that Box!
@@thethirdrail8397 i have alarms that are set off once the temperature is over 35 degrees C so if I can I would prefer the building to be ventilated to keep the temperature down
@@nics-systems-electric 35ºC is around 90ºF! - I guess that is a small box, 70ºF plus the sun's rays yea maybe it does run hot. I did forget about the sun.
You could always make the damper spring return to open position. In event the actuator looses control signal or power it’ll drive open.
You really should start looking into PLCs ;)
A PLC would simplify a lot of the relay logic
Nic I love ur vids bro I love electrical
Ayla approves😊
I love your channel great job
RIP engine :(
In regards to the issue of powering the dampers off the building AC supply and being reliant on a successful transfer to emergency power to ensure the damper opens I would say your best option would be to power it off DC from the generator battery.
The datasheet of the LMB24-SR damper motor says it can accept 19.2 to 28.8 V DC so you could just use a little 12 V to 24 V DC-DC converter to power it from the generator starter battery, it's only 1.5 W when moving so the battery and maintenance charger could easy supply that.
You should also be able to remove the relay by wiring it different, unfortunately at the moment I don't think you've wired it correctly. You seem to be applying 24 V AC across the Y and U terminals to open it, however only Y is used for control, U is an output for the position feedback signal. It previously opened when you connected it to the transformer because it was powering the Y control signal from the U output position signal through the winding of the transformer as you suspected. It goes to 50% because that's that point where the feedback signal matches the control voltage, likely about 5V.
Also don't know about controlling it with 24 V directly, it likely does has input protection but it's not designed for continuously applying 24 V, just small transients, doing so will cause the internal protection components to overheat and fail over time. To solve this you can just use a 500 ohm resistor as the datasheet recommends, BELIMO even sells this as a pre-made heat shrunk cable, part number ZG-R01.
But anyway this has been a cool project to follow!
I will have to look into it as that may be an auction power off the generators battery.
I was thinking of diode-ORing two 24VDC supplies but using the generator's battery seems like a cleaner solution.
You need to do July testing
Just put a second one that runs directly of the gen and tie them both togethor as long as there both at the same voltage.
- is there a such thing as a extra low volume horn for very small closets or bathrooms or other small spaces?
@@wibwabz you can use a remote strobe.
@@wibwabz bathrooms and other small spaces use just strobes
How long have you been working with electrical systems?
An outside of temperature of 21 degrees should be just fine for your generator, i’d only be concerned about it if it’s 38 or above because your generator building is insulated. Here in Florida, especially after a hurricane passes, I see people running that kind of generator when it’s over 30 degrees with the sun beating down on it. I think your current setup is fine
The temperature outside is a lot higher inside an insulated building. The more temperature change the more fuel vapours will be vented into the building.
@@nics-systems-electric that is why the kind of generator you have is not permitted to be in a building like yours it has to actually be out side no building to protect it but we solved that issue just get a normal stand by generator from genarac or a number of companies that make them that come with a cabinet made of steel and are velatlated 24 7 with luver vents
@@apctech1 that would not work for me there are no standby generators under $20,000 that will work in my situation
@@nics-systems-electric thats weird you just want to buy one not own the company:)
@@apctech1 that's the normal cost for diesel generators they are not cheap
Nice video
hey nic
Hi nic
Ironically, I just watched your video where you had problems with it getting too cold
Where is your blinker light
The videos aren't in perfect order
can i be in a vid
Will you take. A break for college 😊
I'm in college now
wheres the strobe?
dont tell me this video was before the strobe!?!?!?!
Ok I won't tell you
@@nics-systems-electric haha thats very funny actually.
0:41 69 nice
Nice video