You probably never had this happen but I have had problems soldering wires when the tip you are soldering is higher than the rest if the insulated wire. The solder can travel underneath the insulation and stiffen up the wire making it prone to breaking like half an inch from the solder joint. I might use too much solder which doesn't help, but I started tinning the wires with the ends facing down below the rest of the wire so it cant travel up the wire and make it brittle.
I hate to break it to you mark but what you said about the amount of solder is wrong . Solder is a current blocker and having alot of solder not only slows power delivery it also creates heat. Also the reason why you have to solder on both sides of the end of the wire is because your solder joint is too cold and because of that it's a weak joint and further stops current flow and actually even more heat. Not only does physics tell you this but so does common sense. And one last mistake your saying and doing is solder is attracted to heat and not having a hot enough joint the solder will not flow period.
I guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Dax Omari I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Some more tips: Cheap Iron + Good Solder = good joints Good Iron + Good Solder = perfect joints Always buy good solder (Kester, Loctite, etc), its more expensive but worth every penny. Also, 800 F is really high, should be only be used if you have a small tip when soldering high gauge wires, but I would suggest you just buy a bigger thicker tip. 60/40 solder melts around 460 F and 63/37 at 364 F, at higher temps you'll get more oxidization and your flux will just boil. You can't go wrong with a Hakko iron.
Hey MSM family! I have soldered larger pins on a vxl3s system to fit the 540xl. Now it sometimes cogs and the pins heat up. I pulled on them and they seem to be sturdy and well connected. What could I have done wrong? How can I fix it? Thanks!
Doubt you will answer me but it’s worth a shot. You have a video on bump starter boxes . You spoke about a revo bump box but that company no longer sells them. What kind of bump box can I get now and days for the traxxas revo . Hopefully you can help. Thanks
Mark solder paste and flux are not the same thing fyi. Also one more tip, in an electrical circuit you are only as good as the weakest point. It won't do you any good to run 12g mixed with 10g. Might as well run 12 everywhere or vice versa. Solder paste is cool but not for this application. Mainly used for small surface mount components and circuit board soldering.
Here's a question to ask yourself. If what you say is true...to run all 12ga, or all 10ga, but not a mixture...then why would all the manufacturers who include wires include a pair of 10ga wires for the power, & three 12ga wires for the ESC-motor connection? By what you said, are you attempting to say that the manufacturers don't know what they're doing? If all wiring needed to be the same, then the same gauge would have to be used for ALL connections. Here's the 'problem' with what you said: I'm no electrical engineer...but, having more than a "general understanding" of electrical flow, and power usage, I can easily understand why 10ga for power, & 12ga for ESC-motor, makes perfect sense. First, the ESC, itself, uses a reasonable amount of the supplied power...but, it is also, in essence, a power distribution block, distributing power to the motor, Rx, servo, transponder (for racers), and any other electrical devices (such as LED lighting) connected to the Rx. Not counting the ESC, the greatest consumption of power would be the motor, with everything else utilizing a very minor amount. As such, the usage of 10ga for battery-ESC, 12ga for ESC-motor, & 18-20ga for all other connections, makes perfect sense.
@@robbryan3044 the thing is running different wires on your battery output and esc input makes no sense. Yea you run different size wires to the motor, there are internal components in the esc that control the voltage and amps sent through the wire. 10g on battery and 12 on esc input can create a bottle neck causing heat to build up bc the battery is pushing out more amps than the esc input wires can handle. That make more sense?
@@danielpassmore5026 Before hitting the "send" button, did you even bother to read what you wrote? You contradicted yourself. Also, show me where I said anything about "running different wires in battery output and ESC input". You can't, because I never said that. Yet, immediately after you say that, them you agree (work what I ACTUALLY said). Regarding 10ga/12ga, HOW does 10ga between battery & ESC, and 12ga between ESC & motor, create any "bottleneck"? If it was the other way around, you'd be correct (10ga is THICKER than 12ga, thus MORE current flows through 10ga)...but, again, the 'other way around' isn't what I said...so, once again, what I said IS correct. Additionally, that is EXACTLY why manufacturers that include wires include 10ga for the battery-to-ESC, and 12ga for the ESC-to-motor.
More S means less amps, so no need to go bigger wires if you go up in S, rather the other way round? But 12 gauge should be plenty enough for racing purposes. Speedruns is an other story :p
If anyone has or knows of a good.video for soldering bullets to my pos and neg wires on my ESC would really be helping me out. I was also wondering which do I use for my esc wires a female or male bullet to plug into my lipo. And please save the ignorance I am new to the hobby
Tip (no pun intended): when you want to join 2 points that have been previously tinned, it helps to take a toothpick and put a little bit of that flux paste to one side of the joint you want to solder. It lets the solder melt more quickly and make a good bond in a shorter amount of time. Solder only has a little bit of flux in it, so chances are that when you go to join two tinned parts, the flux is burned up and won’t join as effectively anymore. EDIT: BTW, any reason you didn’t go with the Tekin ESC to begin with? The reason I ask is that I’m looking to get back into the hobby and I was thinking of going with Tekan electronics for my 10th scale touring car. I’m looking at the RSX Pro to go with one of their Redline spec motors. Only going with the RS ex because I plan on going back into MOD after getting my feet wet.
Tekin ESCs are good...but WAY overpriced. Hobbywing ESCs are just as good, if not better...but at MUCH lower prices. As for motors, Tekin still makes great motors (although, so does HW, Team Powers, & Fantom), and they're priced similarly to the other three I mentioned. A final point - a HW ESC/Tekin motor typically makes a better racing combo than a Tekin ESC/motor combo. Don't ask me why (I don't know, or understand, the "technical" reasons), it just does.
@@robbryan3044 Well, I don't know about "way" overpriced these days (with the HW XR10 Pro G2 and Tekin RSX Pro I've been comparing, the difference is $5 more for the Tekin), but your feedback into how the products work together is definitely insightful and worth looking into further. Thanks!
I have the plus in my EB48.4, I have the motor wires facing the servo and the battery wires facing the end bell of my motor or vice versa but either way it fit.
Why not just run a hobbywing motor? I’ve never run tekin but all my hobbywing motors haul ass. All the power a sportsman class driver would ever need. They are super smooth to, and I no there are pro drivers out there running hobbywing as well.
Noob mistakes: using lead free solder, using soldering grease. Neither have a place in an electronics workshop: Lead free solder is for Chinese slave labourers who are forced to use it so the products can be sold according to the ROHS norm for electronic products. Solder grease is used for plumbing and contains acid. Use thin diameter leaded high silver content solder and liquid flux and clean everything in Isopropyl alcohol first. The your soldering will be perfect first time, every time. Thick wires need a lot of heat. Have an old 60W iron from the 1950' with bakelite handle and twisted cloth wire for that purpose.
Bro F soldering speed controllers... hell i solder tube amplifiers just fine but fucking what the shit are these things maed of like solid stone or something???? Sitting there with my iron on 490°C and the pads wont heat at all. Fuck this hobby pisses me off
Thanks for the video. Suggestion. Tin your solder iron tip before turning it off. Tip will last longer.
You probably never had this happen but I have had problems soldering wires when the tip you are soldering is higher than the rest if the insulated wire. The solder can travel underneath the insulation and stiffen up the wire making it prone to breaking like half an inch from the solder joint. I might use too much solder which doesn't help, but I started tinning the wires with the ends facing down below the rest of the wire so it cant travel up the wire and make it brittle.
Great soldering. I agree quality tools and quality material make soldering waaaay easier.
I hate to break it to you mark but what you said about the amount of solder is wrong . Solder is a current blocker and having alot of solder not only slows power delivery it also creates heat. Also the reason why you have to solder on both sides of the end of the wire is because your solder joint is too cold and because of that it's a weak joint and further stops current flow and actually even more heat. Not only does physics tell you this but so does common sense. And one last mistake your saying and doing is solder is attracted to heat and not having a hot enough joint the solder will not flow period.
I guess im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@@leonardfox5188 have no clue my friend. Perhaps try an contact them, I don't know
@Leonard Fox Instablaster ;)
@Dax Omari I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Dax Omari it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
Thank you for your help. Soldering has never been my strong suit. Cheers!
It is in the gap why is it not any good, I have fitted an esc before that tight with no problems, and the Tekin esc is bigger if I remember right.
Use the xr8 sct esc, it is alot smaller and alot of people use it. I use it.
difference is the sct got 10amp less
Some more tips:
Cheap Iron + Good Solder = good joints
Good Iron + Good Solder = perfect joints
Always buy good solder (Kester, Loctite, etc), its more expensive but worth every penny. Also, 800 F is really high, should be only be used if you have a small tip when soldering high gauge wires, but I would suggest you just buy a bigger thicker tip. 60/40 solder melts around 460 F and 63/37 at 364 F, at higher temps you'll get more oxidization and your flux will just boil. You can't go wrong with a Hakko iron.
Cheap solder plus any iron equal bad joints
He’s got a really nice soldering iron it’s a Hakko it’s a professional iron
Good solder tips bro! What a hobby eh'
Great video one day I will solder something.
Hey MSM family! I have soldered larger pins on a vxl3s system to fit the 540xl. Now it sometimes cogs and the pins heat up. I pulled on them and they seem to be sturdy and well connected. What could I have done wrong? How can I fix it? Thanks!
Doubt you will answer me but it’s worth a shot. You have a video on bump starter boxes . You spoke about a revo bump box but that company no longer sells them. What kind of bump box can I get now and days for the traxxas revo . Hopefully you can help. Thanks
Is there going to be an ESC giveaway? Lol always pre fit parts
Could you fabricate some posts to raise up the ESC? Or would that be creating to much of a weak point?
Mark solder paste and flux are not the same thing fyi. Also one more tip, in an electrical circuit you are only as good as the weakest point. It won't do you any good to run 12g mixed with 10g. Might as well run 12 everywhere or vice versa. Solder paste is cool but not for this application. Mainly used for small surface mount components and circuit board soldering.
Here's a question to ask yourself. If what you say is true...to run all 12ga, or all 10ga, but not a mixture...then why would all the manufacturers who include wires include a pair of 10ga wires for the power, & three 12ga wires for the ESC-motor connection? By what you said, are you attempting to say that the manufacturers don't know what they're doing? If all wiring needed to be the same, then the same gauge would have to be used for ALL connections.
Here's the 'problem' with what you said:
I'm no electrical engineer...but, having more than a "general understanding" of electrical flow, and power usage, I can easily understand why 10ga for power, & 12ga for ESC-motor, makes perfect sense. First, the ESC, itself, uses a reasonable amount of the supplied power...but, it is also, in essence, a power distribution block, distributing power to the motor, Rx, servo, transponder (for racers), and any other electrical devices (such as LED lighting) connected to the Rx. Not counting the ESC, the greatest consumption of power would be the motor, with everything else utilizing a very minor amount. As such, the usage of 10ga for battery-ESC, 12ga for ESC-motor, & 18-20ga for all other connections, makes perfect sense.
@@robbryan3044 the thing is running different wires on your battery output and esc input makes no sense. Yea you run different size wires to the motor, there are internal components in the esc that control the voltage and amps sent through the wire. 10g on battery and 12 on esc input can create a bottle neck causing heat to build up bc the battery is pushing out more amps than the esc input wires can handle. That make more sense?
@@danielpassmore5026 Before hitting the "send" button, did you even bother to read what you wrote? You contradicted yourself. Also, show me where I said anything about "running different wires in battery output and ESC input". You can't, because I never said that. Yet, immediately after you say that, them you agree (work what I ACTUALLY said).
Regarding 10ga/12ga, HOW does 10ga between battery & ESC, and 12ga between ESC & motor, create any "bottleneck"? If it was the other way around, you'd be correct (10ga is THICKER than 12ga, thus MORE current flows through 10ga)...but, again, the 'other way around' isn't what I said...so, once again, what I said IS correct. Additionally, that is EXACTLY why manufacturers that include wires include 10ga for the battery-to-ESC, and 12ga for the ESC-to-motor.
Whats the part tray you are using?
More S means less amps, so no need to go bigger wires if you go up in S, rather the other way round? But 12 gauge should be plenty enough for racing purposes. Speedruns is an other story :p
Tekin is all I run. I like the rx8 alot better then the xr8
If anyone has or knows of a good.video for soldering bullets to my pos and neg wires on my ESC would really be helping me out. I was also wondering which do I use for my esc wires a female or male bullet to plug into my lipo. And please save the ignorance I am new to the hobby
Tip (no pun intended): when you want to join 2 points that have been previously tinned, it helps to take a toothpick and put a little bit of that flux paste to one side of the joint you want to solder. It lets the solder melt more quickly and make a good bond in a shorter amount of time. Solder only has a little bit of flux in it, so chances are that when you go to join two tinned parts, the flux is burned up and won’t join as effectively anymore.
EDIT: BTW, any reason you didn’t go with the Tekin ESC to begin with? The reason I ask is that I’m looking to get back into the hobby and I was thinking of going with Tekan electronics for my 10th scale touring car. I’m looking at the RSX Pro to go with one of their Redline spec motors. Only going with the RS ex because I plan on going back into MOD after getting my feet wet.
Tekin ESCs are good...but WAY overpriced. Hobbywing ESCs are just as good, if not better...but at MUCH lower prices. As for motors, Tekin still makes great motors (although, so does HW, Team Powers, & Fantom), and they're priced similarly to the other three I mentioned. A final point - a HW ESC/Tekin motor typically makes a better racing combo than a Tekin ESC/motor combo. Don't ask me why (I don't know, or understand, the "technical" reasons), it just does.
@@robbryan3044 Well, I don't know about "way" overpriced these days (with the HW XR10 Pro G2 and Tekin RSX Pro I've been comparing, the difference is $5 more for the Tekin), but your feedback into how the products work together is definitely insightful and worth looking into further. Thanks!
What soldering iron are you using?
im also super weird about knowing where my stuff is at, and that itsz in a organized space
Hey bud do you run 3s or 4s on your 1/8 buggy? I run nitro but want to get an electric setup. Thanks
steven 4s 2050kv motor
Mark Santa Maria thanks!
What is wrong with it fitting tight, it looked good to me?
Get the xr8 sct pro
I have the plus in my EB48.4, I have the motor wires facing the servo and the battery wires facing the end bell of my motor or vice versa but either way it fit.
Why not just run a hobbywing motor? I’ve never run tekin but all my hobbywing motors haul ass. All the power a sportsman class driver would ever need. They are super smooth to, and I no there are pro drivers out there running hobbywing as well.
Not bad tips but took to long to get to point.
Total bummer
You need m2c chassis it a upgrade 1 thank you
Noob mistakes: using lead free solder, using soldering grease. Neither have a place in an electronics workshop: Lead free solder is for Chinese slave labourers who are forced to use it so the products can be sold according to the ROHS norm for electronic products. Solder grease is used for plumbing and contains acid. Use thin diameter leaded high silver content solder and liquid flux and clean everything in Isopropyl alcohol first. The your soldering will be perfect first time, every time. Thick wires need a lot of heat. Have an old 60W iron from the 1950' with bakelite handle and twisted cloth wire for that purpose.
You should try to shave, get cleaned up. Try it, not hating...love your videos..
J
Bro F soldering speed controllers... hell i solder tube amplifiers just fine but fucking what the shit are these things maed of like solid stone or something???? Sitting there with my iron on 490°C and the pads wont heat at all. Fuck this hobby pisses me off
I'm wanted to use this exact combination. Did you get it running or change the motor or ESC? What did you end up going with? Thanks