Can't thank you enough for this video Andy. You're probably very busy but I really look forward to more basic videos from you. If people (like myself) can feel more confident in shooting photographs, they'd be able to enjoy more and grow much quicker.
Great summary! Interesting to to learn about the preferences of different RUclipsrs out there. Mads Peter Iversen, for example, usually goes for aperture priority and loves the zebra stripes. I'm with him regarding the aperture priority, but I find the zebra stripes kind of annoying. To me, aperture priority is a sort of manual mode on caffeine: You get a good guess from the meter and, if necessary, you can quickly adjust with the exposure compensation dial. I have probably become accustomed to it because I also like to do reportage and street work, where the speed advantage can be crucial.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. I use aperture priority when I do street photography, and when I used to do weddings, but for landscapes I prefer full manual
I usually hate this type of video and ignored it for so long. Mistake. Andy would never do anything boring or stupid. I learned some new things even about settings I already use. Another thing about choosing raw plus jpeg is that your histogram is based on whatever jpeg image is on the screen, the built in one for the display or the film simulation you have chosen. If your chosen one is quite different in exposure, contrast, etc. the histogram can cause you to make adjustments that affect the raw file.
Hello! Great video. Thank you for sharing. I had one question and it has to do with image stabilization. Do you turn this off when on the tripod? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful. You can leave IS on on the tripod. It’s not a problem with cameras launched in the last few years
Interesting video. One comment regarding RAW+JPG; if you want to dump some images to your mobile, you can p.t. only transfer JPGs. So you can either create a JPG in camera from the RAW, or save RAW+JPG.
Hi Andy, plenty of useful info and beautiful images as usual, thank you. May I suggest a topic for a future video? I looked into your channel but couldn't find anything about it. Sorry if I am wrong. I love to shoot sunsets and dawns, at extremely wide focal lenghts. As I currently live in a very sunny region I often have to deal with flares. Do you have any suggestion on how to minimize it keeping the sun into the frame? Sometimes I can eliminate them but frequently that's just impossible, at least with my editing skills, and I have to trash images which otherwise would worth keeping. Keep up the great work, have a good week.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful. Dealing with flare would actually make a decent topic for a vlog someday. There are ways of dealing with it...it differs from scene to scene and how much the sun is actually in the shot. The best way is using multiple exposures, so for example you do your foreground image with your finger over the sun. You'll have your finger in the frame, but the foreground will be well lit and have no flare. Then you do your sky frame with the sun in it just as the sun is setting, and this frame you use just for the sky, blending it together with the previous frame you shot for the foreground.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments....I will try your suggestions when next out shooting...most of my pics are captured hand held so maybe I need to use my tripod more often to get the best photos... cheers from Australia 😀
Hi Andy I like your videos, you're a good teacher. But as a scientist it drives me nuts that you and other RUclips photographers cannot get simple aspects of the exposure triangle correct. You and the rest routinely get 2/3 wrong. Yes aperture is the size of the shutter opening. But shutter speed is not how long the shutter is open -- speed is a rate, e.g., openings per second, not a time. The duration the shutter opens is of course the inverse of the speed, aka the period. And lastly, ISO is not sensor sensitivity, it's the gain, aka the amplification of what the sensor transduces. Low light means more amplification to make the signal (e.g., information) visible, which also makes random sensor response, e.g., the noise greater. The camera cannot turn up the signal without turning up the noise, the brain has trouble doing this and it's smarter than a camera .... enough said, see you on one of your trips if there's ever one that's not sold out..
I used to know someone called Richard Lewis... Anyway, thanks for the comment...it's kind of interesting, and I was unaware that shutter time wasn't actually how long the shutter is open. A 2 second shutter is open for 2 seconds, 1/2 is open for half a second, and so on. They are both periods of time. I'm not sure in practical terms what the difference between that and it being a rate actually makes, but you're a scientist, I'm not, and here's the thing for me. People come to photography from all different paths and take all kinds of different things out of it, find aspects of it to dive into and be fascinated by. It's a big church. I came into it purely from the creative aspect or wanting to capture the feeling I got from being out in nature in an image. Other people come into it from a science or technical aspect (I'm not saying these are mutually exclusive of course), and still others find other things that fuels their passion for photography. The thing that I've always championed on this channel is that anyone can take good images, and that the camera is essentially an extension of the eye and of the creative vision. For me, I ask myself if knowing that shutter speed is a rate and rather than a time, or that ISO is gain rather than sensor sensitivity actually helps me take better photographs. Is it going to help me better achieve my creative vision? If I understand the exposure triangle, how each factor influences the other, the effect on my image of increasing ISO, or of changing aperture and shutter speed, do I need to know more beyond that? Has not knowing that ever hindered me in the field? In my personal case I would conclude that it hasn't in the least. It's interesting background information, but isn't essential in the creation of images. However, that's how I view photography, as a creative process rather than a technical one. As I said...it's a big church :-)
Just discover your channel yesterday and already watch many of your content. You directly climb on podium of my "Best RUclips photo tuto guy". Great mindset, love the way you reduce complexity to very clear principle. Thanks a lot your very inspiring 🙏
Great suggestions presented very simply, thanks! Re: Histogram - as you noted, the histogram displayed is based upon the JPEG being embedded. And that is created using the film simulation (and film simulation modifiers) you select. For my landscapes I tend to set things up as flat as I can - using Standard for the X-T4/GFX100s, and I don’t adjust any of the modifiers. If you end up choosing something very contrasts/color-rich (e.g., Velvia) you might get the wrong impression when looking at the histogram (it will appear to clip much more easily, giving you false information).
Thanks for the comment. What you said about the JPEG and histogram is true. I find it's best to have the film simulation set to either Eterna or Pro Standard Negative, as they're the lowest contrast and closest to the RAW file.
Its my understanding that if you are shooting in Raw and have natural live view on then the histogram will accurately reflect the exposure as displayed by the histogram?
@@andrewknowles6731 nope that's not the case, there's no camera company yet that has developed a true RAW histogram. (which totally baffles me why wouldn't any major camera company come up with this after so long, maybe it's a huge technical challenge?)
Hey Andy, another great video! Thanks for those tips. Always helpful, especially for me being a Fuji newbie :-). One thing I was curious about in Landscape settings, was on IBIS. I know it is usually a common practice to turn off IBIS while on a tripod. But I have heard the Fuji system IBIS works a bit better than others and you do not need to turn IBIS off. Is that true? And is there a way to display the image histogram to reflect RAW, instead of Jpeg? Thanks again Andy!
Thanks so much, really glad you found the video useful. With pretty much all cameras now, IBIS has improved to the point that you really don’t need to turn it off on a tripod. I never do, and have noticed no negative effects. For the histogram, there is a setting in the menu called “Natural Live View” but, this doesn’t give you the actual RAW view or histogram. I tend to go with Eterna or Pro Standard negative, as they’re close to the RAW, but you’ll always have more latitude withheld RAW file
@@AndyMumford Thanks for the reply back. You know, I follow allot of photographers, and many with way fewer subscribers than you and they hardly ever respond back to comments or questions, so I really appreciate your effort to do that. Thanks!
Hi Andy and thanks again for this technical video. It gives me again the sensation of a really valuable video...meaning that we learn all the time ! I just started photography 1year and a half ago, with a Panasonic 4/3 and still want to take the knowledge out of all the Landscape photographer I really like. And really funny that I even didn't know that we could change the Noise reduction setting !!!😂😂😂...... you cannot imagine how during sunset it was pissing me off....as the sun was going down !!!! so funny and feeling so ridiculous.....
Great suggestions as always. I keep the RGB histogram available on one of my back buttons as the "composite" histogram can be wildly off the mark when there are saturated colors in the scene. I pop it up whenever I think the scene is likely to be blowing out one channel and the white histogram is probably lying to me... (I didn't know about the tips to make the histogram response more linear, so this was worth a read of the comments alone!)
Thanks for these basic reminders. Your demo images are Spectacular! Were the demo images made with your Fujifilm APSC cameras? I am planning to be a part of your Dolomite workshop 2023, cant wait!
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoyed the images...and yes, they were all taken with Fuji APSC cameras. Hope to see you in the Dolomites next year
Hey Rodney, how are you doing? Argh, I forgot to mention white balance. I never set it to auto for a couple of reasons. When shooting video, panoramas or mutiple exposures, changes in the light will change the white balance, meaning that there are changes in colour in the video, or across the different images in the pano or multiple exposure. Because of this, I always have my white balance set to cloudy (but you can choose sunny or whatever, as long is it's a fixed value)
@@AndyMumford Thanks. I see a lot of chatter about it but haven't really experienced anything noteworthy with the X-T5. Thought maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough. I think the new sensor is fantastic. My 10-24 is on the way. Can't wait to pair the two and make some images.
Thank you so much Andy!! As usual, I have learned again some important tips. For example the histogram "jpeg reading". I didn´t know that before and I think it is important. And among the comments, your recommendation to the white balance, not to keep it on auto and why !! Interesting and very important. Finally, not to use noise reduction for long exposures!! Once more, THANKS.
Thank you so much for the video, what about color chrome effect and FX Blue? Seems they could be useful when the setting is close to blowing out one color channel.
Thank you for another excellent experiential video! As a long-time Nikon shooter in SLR and DSLR, moving to Fuji's menu selections was rather daunting, but made so much easier by your videos! I have also found them incredibly helpful in better understanding how to use lenses in various situations ... so thank you again for all you do!
Cheers Chris. You actually appear in the drone shots at the beginning and end, and for the shots of the back of the camera, I was shooting Jan's camera, so there's a lot of the workshop in the video 😊 Hope all's good in Utah
Thanks for another informative video, Andy. I like the idea of hiding all the settings on the LCD while keeping them available in the viewfinder. I've always had a bit of a problem with failing to catch miscellaneous items intruding into the edges of my photos. It's way better to crop for artistic reasons than to get rid of junk!
Very comprehensive summary! As a seascape photographer, shutter speed and aperture are key settings with ISO sometimes having to be increased or nd’s used.
Thanks for the comment Nick. I take your point about the shutter speed being less flexible when you're aiming for specific shutter times when photographing the coast. Ironically, I also recorded a video about capturing moving water when I was in Lofoten, and spoke about aiming the effect of different shutter times.
Great video Andy, really enjoy the way you put it all across so even the beginner can understand. Appreciated the info on the histogram and the comments from other viewers, thank you 🙏
Hi Andy, thanks so much for all the amazing videos and awesome teaching style. I've invested in an XT3. My daughter's wedding is in Amorgos Greece in June. Nothing like a bit of pressure to push me to get organised! I get to buy a few lenses tomorrow. I'm taking your advice about the 2 zoom lenses. I bought a preloved X100F and an XE1 camera and a new 27mm to test the system, so I have those focal lengths covered and I'm going to resist buying the 18-55mm. My previous camera had 5 axis stabilisation and I've never used a tripod. I'm 67 and not as fit as I'd like. Lugging a tripod up a mountain isn't my idea of fun, so I need a bit of convincing, not sure if you have covered using tripods in your content? But I'll find it In the next few weeks while binge-watching every video you've made. You should send me an invoice for the masterclass!!! Sorry for the ebook I've written in the comments but hope RUclips algorithms are happy little vegemites. [Yes, I'm an Aussie]
Thanks so much for the comment Jennifer. Enjoy the XT3, it's a great camera. For a lot of shots, it's perfectly possible to shoot handheld, but I always have a tripod with me because when it gets to the blue hour exposure times can get up to 1 second, and for that I need a tripod
@@AndyMumford Thanks Andy, picked up my lenses, so I’m in the weeds of the manual and testing. I’m walking every morning with my camera trying a new setting using the 27mm. I had a brain wave to buy a tripod in Athens. Two of Georgia’s friends I know well are photographers, I will organise a group early morning & evening photo shoot which will be fun. I also bought Georgia an XT3 and the 18-55mm for a wedding present, she is finally ready to get off her phone! ☺️ 📸 🌍 I’ll keep you posted.
Andy thanks for the great video. I am a new photographer and more often that not, I am in the field ready for a shot and I am not confident that my settings are correct. You provide a perfect baseline for me to practice.
Great video as always. How are you liking the ProMediaGear TRS344L compared to your previous Gitzo Traveler Series 1? I'm curious about your reasons for the switch.
Hi Jeremy, thanks for the comment. Glad you liked the video. I really liked the PMG TR344L, it’s a fantastic tripod, but it was too big for me. On my present trip I’m using the smaller TRS344, and I have to say it’s the best tripod I’ve ever used. It’s stable and just really easy to manipulated. It’s still quite heavy though, so it’s fine for trips like this in the winter where I’m not walking far, but for any trip that I’m planning any serious hikes, then I’ll take the Gitzo with me. I’d highly recommend the PMG though, it’s a beautifully designed and constructed tripod, it works perfectly and is a pleasure to use
Andy, have you check if the OIS AND IBIS have to be off when shotting on a tripod? If yes, at all Speeds? Or only between 1/8 sec and 5 se? I made a couple of test on 135mm (200 mm full frame) with OIS AND IBIS on and off and havent found any diference. But the main diference was when I didnt use a remote . Thank you for you answer.
I’ve been unable to find any difference between having IS switched on or off when the camera is on a tripod, and it’s my understanding that the IS is reacative and knows that the camera is on a tripod
I love your workshop locations worldwide O.M.G. what an amazing adventure it looks like. I'm hoping Huntington Beach CA. Yosemite and the Colorado River will be good settings for me just starting out in my Photography Joury. I got a few super amazing places to shoot from almost free of charge. I'm thinking about putting together a portfolio of 25 of my best images and get started next year doing some semiprofessional photo gigs.
I saw this title, and thought "perfect" as there is one area I am not sure about... and you didn't mention it 🙂. That's preferred shutter operation. Mechanical, Electronic or Electronic Front Curtain. Thoughts?
That's a good question. I've always used mechanical shutter, but I know some people prefer electronic shutter because they feel it has less chance of camera shake. That's not something I've ever noticed though. With front curtain, that's something you only need to worry about with a flash system
Very informative and thank you Andy! Just curious what you do about white balance. I tend to shoot with that on auto. Should I set it to something like sun or shade, or something else that is suitable for the conditions?
Argh, I forgot to mention white balance. I never set it to auto for a couple of reasons. When shooting video, panoramas or mutiple exposures, changes in the light will change the white balance, meaning that there are changes in colour in the video, or across the different images in the pano or multiple exposure. Because of this, I always have my white balance set to cloudy (but you can choose sunny or whatever, as long is it's a fixed value)
@@AndyMumford Thanks for the response Andy. I tend to forget that setting too. Usually I just set it to auto and forget it, so I appreciate the insight!
@@AndyMumford Hi Andy. The ‘cloudy’ white balance setting will affect the histogram I assume. If so, which white balance setting will least affect the histogram? Thanks for your very informative videos. Really enjoy watching them and gleaning out gems of advice 😊
What settings should I use? Ridiculous question. Settings are adjusted according to the light. Asking what settings should I use depends on the user and how you want to have your camera set up. The rest, mother nature decides the settings and also how you want the image to look. People really need to stop asking this question.
And yet you clicked on a video with that exact title 😉 Seriously though, it's a question I must be asked 20 to 30 times a year which shows there's a lot of interest in it. That's been backed up by the number of comments on the video since I published it. Before I was a full time photographer, I was a teacher, and lifetime in education has taught me that there are no ridiculous questions because everyone learns in different ways and takes on information differently. Besides, this video wasn't about what exposure settings to use, more about how to set your camera up for landscape photography and things to be aware of.
Since I'm early: I am looking for a good and affordable variable ND filter. Preferably under 100$. Any recommendations? Very informative and I am happy that even though I haven't had my camera for too long just yet I knew most of the things you mentioned which means I am on the right track. The tip with doubling the focal lenght to get the shutter speed when hendheld was new to me and something I will apply next time I'm outside. Is there any downside in that scenario when increasing the shutter speed even more to get less light into the camera?
I'm not a big fan of variable NDs, but both Moment and (I think) Polar Pro make some decent variety NDs. As for the shutter speed..there's no real downside to a fast shutter speed, other than the possibility of under exposing
hey Andy- have a question for you. What is the best way to reduce noise in low light photos? I was in Death Valley two weeks back and the sunrise was unreal. I captured what I thought were great photos but the mountains are pretty grainy. What can I do to minimize this?
Well, first you need to shoot in the lowest ISO possible to minimise noise, and once in post I'd be looking at reducing noise in Photoshop. One way is to open the file in PS, then create another layer of the image, which you open in Camera RAW (via the filters drop down menu). You can then do heavy noise reduction on that layer. Once you've done that, mask out the layer with a black mask (which will have you original noisy image showing through) and you can then brush the noise reduced layer back through with a low opacity brush just in the spots where you want it.
Hi Andy me again :)) how do you focus, do You prefer hyperfocal focusing or focus to infinity or how do you prefer ? Ever do focus bracketing on landscapes ? :)
@@AndyMumford that came to my mind tbh but after watching so many videos about hyperfocal or bracketing i though i was doint it wrong:) appreciate for that , if its enough for you , its more than enough for me :)
Great tips! This all pretty much mirrors how I have things setup. But one more that I find super important is to make sure IBIS is turned off for landscape photography on a tripod, otherwise it can sometimes have the opposite effect and actually introduce shake/blur into your photos.
Very helpful video as usual, thanks. Picking up my new-to-me xt4 this week :-) Ref IBIS and tripod - do you turn IBIS off when using a tripod and if so is that because you have seen a difference between on and off?
Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. With IBIS, it's built into the system to know recognise when you're on tripod so there's no need to turn it off
Thanks for a great video, Andy. As always, well explained. Even though I've used Fuji for 5 years, there were some useful tips: base ISO, the histogram being based on the jpeg and the use of MyMenu. Just one question about handheld shutter speed being 2 x focal length: does that apply to APSC cameras like the XT series, but before converting to its full frame equivalent, e.g. 16mm (effectively 24mm on FF) so 2 x 16mm =1/32?
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the video useful. The handheld shutter speed is just a very vague guideline to give you an idea. It's not supposed to be exact and so there's not really any need to convert to full frame equivalents.
If shooting RAW and using the histogram as your exposure reference (eg. ETTR). it is important to use ‘Preview Pic. Effect OFF’. This changes the view you are seeing on the lcd/evf and the histogram to a more ‘linear response’. In other words it removes the tweaks applied by the chosen film simulation (other than colour/b+w). This way no matter what film sim you are ‘baking in’ to your jpeg (if you are shooting jpeg also) the histogram you seeing is unaffected.
Thanks for another great video btw, really enjoyable. Also, the ‘Preview Pic. Effect ON/OFF also effects the The Live View Highlight Alert. Feature in the same way, (if anyone uses that). If you set your film-sim to Provia for example, turn up the exposure until you have blown out areas flashing at you, then turn The Preview Pic. Effect OFF, like magic the flashing areas disappear/greatly reduce.
My apologies, I should have said that I am using an X-T2. I believe that on newer cameras (x-t3, x-t4??) this might have been re-named ‘natural live view’ I think that ‘Natural Live View ON’ is the same as ‘Preview Picture Effect OFF’ (just to make things confusing). The histogram and the view in LCD/EVF should not effected by film-sim (others than showing colour for all the colour film-sims, and B+W for all the B+W film-sims) when Natural live view is ON. Maybe someone with a later camera model could confirm this?
Hey Andy, ‘natural live view’ is a way of viewing the histogram and image in its raw state. Once you take the image you then see the preview jpeg though until editing.
Thanks for the tip Lewis. I'm not sure the "natural live view" exists on the Fuji (happy to be corrected if I'm wrong), but it does exist on DJI drones, so I know what you mean
A great set of tips, Andy! One useful hack to allow a quick check of the true RAW histogram: assign "NATURAL LIVE VIEW" to one of the custom buttons (I like the View Mode on X-T5 for this) and quickly toggle between the processed and untouched images. The untouched image will look dull, but show you the true histogram!
iso does not increase the sensitivity of the sensor nor the amount of light, it's the amplification of the signal which is dependent on shutter speed and aperture
Fujifilm video autofocus failing the photographer and the viewer, per usual. There are *no* excuses for this kind of performance in 2022. The X-H2 had better resolve all of these problems--ideally with an algorithm that makes its way into older cameras. It's just embarrassing at this point.
It's entirely possible that it was my fault. Before I shot this video we'd been messing around trying to photograph some nearby eagles and I had the AF set to continuous. I forgot to switch it back before recording this video.
Can't thank you enough for this video Andy. You're probably very busy but I really look forward to more basic videos from you. If people (like myself) can feel more confident in shooting photographs, they'd be able to enjoy more and grow much quicker.
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the video useful
Great summary! Interesting to to learn about the preferences of different RUclipsrs out there. Mads Peter Iversen, for example, usually goes for aperture priority and loves the zebra stripes. I'm with him regarding the aperture priority, but I find the zebra stripes kind of annoying. To me, aperture priority is a sort of manual mode on caffeine: You get a good guess from the meter and, if necessary, you can quickly adjust with the exposure compensation dial. I have probably become accustomed to it because I also like to do reportage and street work, where the speed advantage can be crucial.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. I use aperture priority when I do street photography, and when I used to do weddings, but for landscapes I prefer full manual
I have just watched this episode again, great advice & I love your channel 👏👏👏👏
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you enjoyed the video
Thank you for the outstanding work, Andy. Do you ever use the electronic shutter? If so, in what circumstances?
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoy the videos. I actually never use electronic shutter...I've not yet had a reason to
I usually hate this type of video and ignored it for so long. Mistake. Andy would never do anything boring or stupid. I learned some new things even about settings I already use. Another thing about choosing raw plus jpeg is that your histogram is based on whatever jpeg image is on the screen, the built in one for the display or the film simulation you have chosen. If your chosen one is quite different in exposure, contrast, etc. the histogram can cause you to make adjustments that affect the raw file.
Thanks for watching....I'm glad you found something useful in it
ES electric shutter vs MS
landscape wise or just MS older way better
I don’t think it really makes any difference
Hello! Great video. Thank you for sharing. I had one question and it has to do with image stabilization. Do you turn this off when on the tripod? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful. You can leave IS on on the tripod. It’s not a problem with cameras launched in the last few years
@@AndyMumford Thank you very much! I appreciate your time and expertise.
Perfect! Kudos to you Andy!
Thanks so much for the comment
Do you use whole area focus or one spot focus?
I use a focus area when I use AF, but mostly I shoot in manual focus
Interesting video. One comment regarding RAW+JPG; if you want to dump some images to your mobile, you can p.t. only transfer JPGs. So you can either create a JPG in camera from the RAW, or save RAW+JPG.
8:45 I’ve been wondering how you mitigate focus breathing when you do focus stacking. Haven’t seen anyone bring it up.
It is an issue, how much so depends on where you choose to blend the images together. So how you manage it differs from image to image
One of the main things I use on fuji is focus bracketing, works realy well. Good info 👍
I've not really experimented with focus bracketing...it's probably something I should have a look at. Glad you enjoyed the video
Just bought the XT5, do you use Dynamic Range or the D Range settings? Thank you...!
I leave it at the default, but it doesn't really matter when you're shooting RAW
Outstanding! Your explanations are spot on and clear!
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad it was useful
Hi Andy, plenty of useful info and beautiful images as usual, thank you. May I suggest a topic for a future video? I looked into your channel but couldn't find anything about it. Sorry if I am wrong. I love to shoot sunsets and dawns, at extremely wide focal lenghts. As I currently live in a very sunny region I often have to deal with flares. Do you have any suggestion on how to minimize it keeping the sun into the frame? Sometimes I can eliminate them but frequently that's just impossible, at least with my editing skills, and I have to trash images which otherwise would worth keeping. Keep up the great work, have a good week.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful.
Dealing with flare would actually make a decent topic for a vlog someday. There are ways of dealing with it...it differs from scene to scene and how much the sun is actually in the shot. The best way is using multiple exposures, so for example you do your foreground image with your finger over the sun. You'll have your finger in the frame, but the foreground will be well lit and have no flare. Then you do your sky frame with the sun in it just as the sun is setting, and this frame you use just for the sky, blending it together with the previous frame you shot for the foreground.
@@AndyMumford thank you very much. This seems a practical and effective solution, I'll try soon.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments....I will try your suggestions when next out shooting...most of my pics are captured hand held so maybe I need to use my tripod more often to get the best photos... cheers from Australia 😀
Thanks so much, glad you found the video useful
Hi Andy I like your videos, you're a good teacher. But as a scientist it drives me nuts that you and other RUclips photographers cannot get simple aspects of the exposure triangle correct. You and the rest routinely get 2/3 wrong. Yes aperture is the size of the shutter opening. But shutter speed is not how long the shutter is open -- speed is a rate, e.g., openings per second, not a time. The duration the shutter opens is of course the inverse of the speed, aka the period. And lastly, ISO is not sensor sensitivity, it's the gain, aka the amplification of what the sensor transduces. Low light means more amplification to make the signal (e.g., information) visible, which also makes random sensor response, e.g., the noise greater. The camera cannot turn up the signal without turning up the noise, the brain has trouble doing this and it's smarter than a camera .... enough said, see you on one of your trips if there's ever one that's not sold out..
I used to know someone called Richard Lewis...
Anyway, thanks for the comment...it's kind of interesting, and I was unaware that shutter time wasn't actually how long the shutter is open. A 2 second shutter is open for 2 seconds, 1/2 is open for half a second, and so on. They are both periods of time. I'm not sure in practical terms what the difference between that and it being a rate actually makes, but you're a scientist, I'm not, and here's the thing for me. People come to photography from all different paths and take all kinds of different things out of it, find aspects of it to dive into and be fascinated by. It's a big church. I came into it purely from the creative aspect or wanting to capture the feeling I got from being out in nature in an image. Other people come into it from a science or technical aspect (I'm not saying these are mutually exclusive of course), and still others find other things that fuels their passion for photography.
The thing that I've always championed on this channel is that anyone can take good images, and that the camera is essentially an extension of the eye and of the creative vision. For me, I ask myself if knowing that shutter speed is a rate and rather than a time, or that ISO is gain rather than sensor sensitivity actually helps me take better photographs. Is it going to help me better achieve my creative vision? If I understand the exposure triangle, how each factor influences the other, the effect on my image of increasing ISO, or of changing aperture and shutter speed, do I need to know more beyond that? Has not knowing that ever hindered me in the field? In my personal case I would conclude that it hasn't in the least. It's interesting background information, but isn't essential in the creation of images.
However, that's how I view photography, as a creative process rather than a technical one. As I said...it's a big church :-)
Great advice, thank you. Question - Mechanical shutter or electronic shutter?
I always have mechanical shutter, but for landscapes it doesn't really matter
Just discover your channel yesterday and already watch many of your content. You directly climb on podium of my "Best RUclips photo tuto guy".
Great mindset, love the way you reduce complexity to very clear principle.
Thanks a lot your very inspiring 🙏
Thanks so much for the comment, and really good to know you find the videos useful
Great suggestions presented very simply, thanks!
Re: Histogram - as you noted, the histogram displayed is based upon the JPEG being embedded. And that is created using the film simulation (and film simulation modifiers) you select. For my landscapes I tend to set things up as flat as I can - using Standard for the X-T4/GFX100s, and I don’t adjust any of the modifiers. If you end up choosing something very contrasts/color-rich (e.g., Velvia) you might get the wrong impression when looking at the histogram (it will appear to clip much more easily, giving you false information).
Thanks for the comment. What you said about the JPEG and histogram is true. I find it's best to have the film simulation set to either Eterna or Pro Standard Negative, as they're the lowest contrast and closest to the RAW file.
Its my understanding that if you are shooting in Raw and have natural live view on then the histogram will accurately reflect the exposure as displayed by the histogram?
@@andrewknowles6731 nope that's not the case, there's no camera company yet that has developed a true RAW histogram. (which totally baffles me why wouldn't any major camera company come up with this after so long, maybe it's a huge technical challenge?)
Do you change any of your camera settings when you are shooting panoramic landscapes?
For panorama shots the most important thing is to keep the exposure settings the same for each shot
Hey Andy, another great video! Thanks for those tips. Always helpful, especially for me being a Fuji newbie :-). One thing I was curious about in Landscape settings, was on IBIS. I know it is usually a common practice to turn off IBIS while on a tripod. But I have heard the Fuji system IBIS works a bit better than others and you do not need to turn IBIS off. Is that true? And is there a way to display the image histogram to reflect RAW, instead of Jpeg? Thanks again Andy!
Thanks so much, really glad you found the video useful. With pretty much all cameras now, IBIS has improved to the point that you really don’t need to turn it off on a tripod. I never do, and have noticed no negative effects. For the histogram, there is a setting in the menu called “Natural Live View” but, this doesn’t give you the actual RAW view or histogram. I tend to go with Eterna or Pro Standard negative, as they’re close to the RAW, but you’ll always have more latitude withheld RAW file
@@AndyMumford Thanks for the reply back. You know, I follow allot of photographers, and many with way fewer subscribers than you and they hardly ever respond back to comments or questions, so I really appreciate your effort to do that. Thanks!
Hi Andy and thanks again for this technical video. It gives me again the sensation of a really valuable video...meaning that we learn all the time ! I just started photography 1year and a half ago, with a Panasonic 4/3 and still want to take the knowledge out of all the Landscape photographer I really like. And really funny that I even didn't know that we could change the Noise reduction setting !!!😂😂😂...... you cannot imagine how during sunset it was pissing me off....as the sun was going down !!!! so funny and feeling so ridiculous.....
Thanks so much, really glad you found the video useful
Great suggestions as always. I keep the RGB histogram available on one of my back buttons as the "composite" histogram can be wildly off the mark when there are saturated colors in the scene. I pop it up whenever I think the scene is likely to be blowing out one channel and the white histogram is probably lying to me... (I didn't know about the tips to make the histogram response more linear, so this was worth a read of the comments alone!)
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you found the video useful
thanks for the effort and the sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoy the videos
Thanks for these basic reminders. Your demo images are Spectacular! Were the demo images made with your Fujifilm APSC cameras? I am planning to be a part of your Dolomite workshop 2023, cant wait!
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoyed the images...and yes, they were all taken with Fuji APSC cameras. Hope to see you in the Dolomites next year
Thank you. A great walk through reminder for any photographer. Take care
Thanks so much for watching
Nice summary Andy. I may have missed it, but I think you forgot to mention white balance settings.
Hey Rodney, how are you doing? Argh, I forgot to mention white balance. I never set it to auto for a couple of reasons. When shooting video, panoramas or mutiple exposures, changes in the light will change the white balance, meaning that there are changes in colour in the video, or across the different images in the pano or multiple exposure. Because of this, I always have my white balance set to cloudy (but you can choose sunny or whatever, as long is it's a fixed value)
Excellent video with a lot of very useful information. Thanks
Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video
This is very helpful! Many thanks, Andy
Thanks so much, glad you found it useful
Brilliant. I’ve got to learn more about bracketing, focus peaking and……well everything actually!
Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed it
Love this video!! Fairly new to this, so yeah. This helped a lot !! 🥺❤️🔥
Thanks for the comment, glad the video was useful
Have you noticed any issues with diffraction at f/8 on the X-T5? There's been talk of seeing diffraction sooner because of the increased resolution.
I’ve not really noticed anything so far, but I haven’t done any serous comparisons
@@AndyMumford Thanks. I see a lot of chatter about it but haven't really experienced anything noteworthy with the X-T5. Thought maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough. I think the new sensor is fantastic. My 10-24 is on the way. Can't wait to pair the two and make some images.
I really enjoy your videos and I love shooting with Fuji. Thank you for sharing your expert knowledge.
Thanks so much, really glad you enjoy the videos
Thank you so much Andy!! As usual, I have learned again some important tips. For example the histogram "jpeg reading". I didn´t know that before and I think it is important. And among the comments, your recommendation to the white balance, not to keep it on auto and why !! Interesting and very important. Finally, not to use noise reduction for long exposures!! Once more, THANKS.
Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful
This video is gold
Thanks so much 🙏
Thank you so much for the video, what about color chrome effect and FX Blue? Seems they could be useful when the setting is close to blowing out one color channel.
Thanks for the comment Hollis. Honestly, it's not something I've ever really thought about :/
@@AndyMumford oh I dug in more after I asked. Turns out is one of the settings that only affects jpegs.
Super video..very helpful. Thanks!!
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you liked the video
Tus consejos son muy buenos y tu trabajo es impresionante, saludos!!!
Thanks for watching 🙏
Great tutorial Andy , plenty to think about , much appreciated , cheers from NZ
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the video useful
Thank you for the video Andy very helpful! Also, what a lovely camera you have there :)
Haha, thanks Jan. I was very kindly allowed to borrow the camera so I could shoot those clips. The video wouldn’t be the same without it
Thank you for another excellent experiential video! As a long-time Nikon shooter in SLR and DSLR, moving to Fuji's menu selections was rather daunting, but made so much easier by your videos! I have also found them incredibly helpful in better understanding how to use lenses in various situations ... so thank you again for all you do!
Thanks again, and good luck with switching system
super useful video as always! :) that's a great image at 6:35, did you use the ND16 or polarizer in this one?
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it. I didn’t use a filter on that image, it was a simple handheld shot
Thanks for the information Andy. Do you keep OIS off or on when attached to the tripod?
I tend to leave it on. With cameras from the last generation or so it no longer matters
Great video Andy! It's pretty fun recognizing the locations 😀
Cheers Chris. You actually appear in the drone shots at the beginning and end, and for the shots of the back of the camera, I was shooting Jan's camera, so there's a lot of the workshop in the video 😊
Hope all's good in Utah
Concise and informative. Thankyou!
Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful
Thanks for another informative video, Andy. I like the idea of hiding all the settings on the LCD while keeping them available in the viewfinder. I've always had a bit of a problem with failing to catch miscellaneous items intruding into the edges of my photos. It's way better to crop for artistic reasons than to get rid of junk!
Thanks so much for the comment Gord, glad it the video was useful
Andy, your videos are always a wonderful mix of informative and peaceful. I really hope I get to join one of your workshops in the future!
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you found it useful. Hope to see you on a workshop in future.
Very comprehensive summary! As a seascape photographer, shutter speed and aperture are key settings with ISO sometimes having to be increased or nd’s used.
Thanks for the comment Nick. I take your point about the shutter speed being less flexible when you're aiming for specific shutter times when photographing the coast. Ironically, I also recorded a video about capturing moving water when I was in Lofoten, and spoke about aiming the effect of different shutter times.
Truly enjoyed your video. What a beautiful setting!
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it
Amazing! Thank you so much once again.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful
Great video Andy, really enjoy the way you put it all across so even the beginner can understand. Appreciated the info on the histogram and the comments from other viewers, thank you 🙏
thanks so much Ross, glad you found the video useful
Hi Andy, thanks so much for all the amazing videos and awesome teaching style. I've invested in an XT3. My daughter's wedding is in Amorgos Greece in June. Nothing like a bit of pressure to push me to get organised! I get to buy a few lenses tomorrow. I'm taking your advice about the 2 zoom lenses.
I bought a preloved X100F and an XE1 camera and a new 27mm to test the system, so I have those focal lengths covered and I'm going to resist buying the 18-55mm.
My previous camera had 5 axis stabilisation and I've never used a tripod. I'm 67 and not as fit as I'd like. Lugging a tripod up a mountain isn't my idea of fun, so I need a bit of convincing, not sure if you have covered using tripods in your content? But I'll find it In the next few weeks while binge-watching every video you've made. You should send me an invoice for the masterclass!!! Sorry for the ebook I've written in the comments but hope RUclips algorithms are happy little vegemites. [Yes, I'm an Aussie]
Thanks so much for the comment Jennifer. Enjoy the XT3, it's a great camera. For a lot of shots, it's perfectly possible to shoot handheld, but I always have a tripod with me because when it gets to the blue hour exposure times can get up to 1 second, and for that I need a tripod
@@AndyMumford Thanks Andy, picked up my lenses, so I’m in the weeds of the manual and testing. I’m walking every morning with my camera trying a new setting using the 27mm. I had a brain wave to buy a tripod in Athens. Two of Georgia’s friends I know well are photographers, I will organise a group early morning & evening photo shoot which will be fun. I also bought Georgia an XT3 and the 18-55mm for a wedding present, she is finally ready to get off her phone! ☺️ 📸 🌍 I’ll keep you posted.
Andy thanks for the great video. I am a new photographer and more often that not, I am in the field ready for a shot and I am not confident that my settings are correct. You provide a perfect baseline for me to practice.
Thanks for the comment Allan. Glad you found the video useful
Great info like always! I just cant wait for my chance to get an x-t4
Thanks for the comment. I'm sure you'll like the XT4
Great advice once again Andy. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks so much Glen, glad you found it useful
Muito obrigado, estou gostando muito dos seus videos e da forma simples como coloca seus ensinamentos.
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you enjoy the videos
Excellent summary, Andy!
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic information as always- thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the comment James. Hope you're well over there in Texas
setting up camera landscape photography
Great summary. Thanks for this.
Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoyed it
Great video as always. How are you liking the ProMediaGear TRS344L compared to your previous Gitzo Traveler Series 1? I'm curious about your reasons for the switch.
Hi Jeremy, thanks for the comment. Glad you liked the video. I really liked the PMG TR344L, it’s a fantastic tripod, but it was too big for me. On my present trip I’m using the smaller TRS344, and I have to say it’s the best tripod I’ve ever used. It’s stable and just really easy to manipulated. It’s still quite heavy though, so it’s fine for trips like this in the winter where I’m not walking far, but for any trip that I’m planning any serious hikes, then I’ll take the Gitzo with me. I’d highly recommend the PMG though, it’s a beautifully designed and constructed tripod, it works perfectly and is a pleasure to use
Andy, have you check if the OIS AND IBIS have to be off when shotting on a tripod? If yes, at all Speeds? Or only between 1/8 sec and 5 se? I made a couple of test on 135mm (200 mm full frame) with OIS AND IBIS on and off and havent found any diference. But the main diference was when I didnt use a remote . Thank you for you answer.
I’ve been unable to find any difference between having IS switched on or off when the camera is on a tripod, and it’s my understanding that the IS is reacative and knows that the camera is on a tripod
Hello Andy ! Do you prefer 160 ISO with 100% dynamic or 640 iso at 400% dynamic range Obrigado
If you’re shooting RAW the DR setting doesn’t make any difference, so I prefer to shoot at ISO160
Hi Andy, I noticed you on RUclips a few weeks ago and I can tell you, I am eating your videos. They are so informative and helpful. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment Andreas, glad you enjoyed the videos
I love your workshop locations worldwide O.M.G. what an amazing adventure it looks like. I'm hoping Huntington Beach CA. Yosemite and the Colorado River will be good settings for me just starting out in my Photography Joury. I got a few super amazing places to shoot from almost free of charge. I'm thinking about putting together a portfolio of 25 of my best images and get started next year doing some semiprofessional photo gigs.
Good luck with it
I saw this title, and thought "perfect" as there is one area I am not sure about... and you didn't mention it 🙂. That's preferred shutter operation. Mechanical, Electronic or Electronic Front Curtain. Thoughts?
That's a good question. I've always used mechanical shutter, but I know some people prefer electronic shutter because they feel it has less chance of camera shake. That's not something I've ever noticed though. With front curtain, that's something you only need to worry about with a flash system
Very informative and thank you Andy! Just curious what you do about white balance. I tend to shoot with that on auto. Should I set it to something like sun or shade, or something else that is suitable for the conditions?
Argh, I forgot to mention white balance. I never set it to auto for a couple of reasons. When shooting video, panoramas or mutiple exposures, changes in the light will change the white balance, meaning that there are changes in colour in the video, or across the different images in the pano or multiple exposure. Because of this, I always have my white balance set to cloudy (but you can choose sunny or whatever, as long is it's a fixed value)
@@AndyMumford Thanks for the response Andy. I tend to forget that setting too. Usually I just set it to auto and forget it, so I appreciate the insight!
@@AndyMumford Hi Andy. The ‘cloudy’ white balance setting will affect the histogram I assume. If so, which white balance setting will least affect the histogram? Thanks for your very informative videos. Really enjoy watching them and gleaning out gems of advice 😊
What settings should I use? Ridiculous question. Settings are adjusted according to the light. Asking what settings should I use depends on the user and how you want to have your camera set up. The rest, mother nature decides the settings and also how you want the image to look. People really need to stop asking this question.
And yet you clicked on a video with that exact title 😉
Seriously though, it's a question I must be asked 20 to 30 times a year which shows there's a lot of interest in it. That's been backed up by the number of comments on the video since I published it.
Before I was a full time photographer, I was a teacher, and lifetime in education has taught me that there are no ridiculous questions because everyone learns in different ways and takes on information differently. Besides, this video wasn't about what exposure settings to use, more about how to set your camera up for landscape photography and things to be aware of.
Since I'm early: I am looking for a good and affordable variable ND filter. Preferably under 100$. Any recommendations?
Very informative and I am happy that even though I haven't had my camera for too long just yet I knew most of the things you mentioned which means I am on the right track. The tip with doubling the focal lenght to get the shutter speed when hendheld was new to me and something I will apply next time I'm outside. Is there any downside in that scenario when increasing the shutter speed even more to get less light into the camera?
I'm not a big fan of variable NDs, but both Moment and (I think) Polar Pro make some decent variety NDs.
As for the shutter speed..there's no real downside to a fast shutter speed, other than the possibility of under exposing
hey Andy- have a question for you. What is the best way to reduce noise in low light photos? I was in Death Valley two weeks back and the sunrise was unreal. I captured what I thought were great photos but the mountains are pretty grainy. What can I do to minimize this?
Well, first you need to shoot in the lowest ISO possible to minimise noise, and once in post I'd be looking at reducing noise in Photoshop. One way is to open the file in PS, then create another layer of the image, which you open in Camera RAW (via the filters drop down menu). You can then do heavy noise reduction on that layer. Once you've done that, mask out the layer with a black mask (which will have you original noisy image showing through) and you can then brush the noise reduced layer back through with a low opacity brush just in the spots where you want it.
Thanks, excellent.
Cheers, glad you enjoyed it
Terrific summary!!
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it
Thanks. What DR setting are you using and why? Does it effect the RAW's?
Thanks for the comment. I leave the DR settings at default as it has no effect on RAW files
Great video, as ever. Cheers
Thanks so much, glad you found it useful
THANKYOU...
You're welcome
I love My XT 3 😍
It's a great camera
Hi Andy me again :))
how do you focus, do You prefer hyperfocal focusing or focus to infinity or how do you prefer ? Ever do focus bracketing on landscapes ? :)
I use focus peaking and can see which parts of the image are in focus. I almost never focus stack…I rarely need to
@@AndyMumford that came to my mind tbh but after watching so many videos about hyperfocal or bracketing i though i was doint it wrong:) appreciate for that , if its enough for you , its more than enough for me :)
Great tips! This all pretty much mirrors how I have things setup. But one more that I find super important is to make sure IBIS is turned off for landscape photography on a tripod, otherwise it can sometimes have the opposite effect and actually introduce shake/blur into your photos.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful.
Great video!!
Thanks so much 🙏
Very helpful video as usual, thanks. Picking up my new-to-me xt4 this week :-) Ref IBIS and tripod - do you turn IBIS off when using a tripod and if so is that because you have seen a difference between on and off?
Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. With IBIS, it's built into the system to know recognise when you're on tripod so there's no need to turn it off
@@AndyMumford thanks for taking the time to reply Andy especially as that is a neat feature not needing to worry about turning it off :-)
👏 brilliant
Thanks so much
if you set up bb focus on the fuji you get focus peaking and auto-focus together
Good tip. Thanks
Thanks for a great video, Andy. As always, well explained. Even though I've used Fuji for 5 years, there were some useful tips: base ISO, the histogram being based on the jpeg and the use of MyMenu. Just one question about handheld shutter speed being 2 x focal length: does that apply to APSC cameras like the XT series, but before converting to its full frame equivalent, e.g. 16mm (effectively 24mm on FF) so 2 x 16mm =1/32?
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you found the video useful. The handheld shutter speed is just a very vague guideline to give you an idea. It's not supposed to be exact and so there's not really any need to convert to full frame equivalents.
@@AndyMumford Thanks, Andy.
What is your opinion on Focus stacking landscapes?
I focus stack when I need to. It's rare, but it's always an option
If shooting RAW and using the histogram as your exposure reference (eg. ETTR). it is important to use ‘Preview Pic. Effect OFF’. This changes the view you are seeing on the lcd/evf and the histogram to a more ‘linear response’. In other words it removes the tweaks applied by the chosen film simulation (other than colour/b+w). This way no matter what film sim you are ‘baking in’ to your jpeg (if you are shooting jpeg also) the histogram you seeing is unaffected.
Someone else mentioned this in the comments. It's not a setting I was aware of.
Thanks for another great video btw, really enjoyable.
Also, the ‘Preview Pic. Effect ON/OFF also effects the The Live View Highlight Alert. Feature in the same way, (if anyone uses that).
If you set your film-sim to Provia for example, turn up the exposure until you have blown out areas flashing at you, then turn The Preview Pic. Effect OFF, like magic the flashing areas disappear/greatly reduce.
David - what's the difference between ‘Preview Pic. Effect OFF’ and 'Natural Live View’. They sound pretty similar.
My apologies, I should have said that I am using an X-T2. I believe that on newer cameras (x-t3, x-t4??) this might have been re-named ‘natural live view’
I think that ‘Natural Live View ON’ is the same as ‘Preview Picture Effect OFF’ (just to make things confusing).
The histogram and the view in LCD/EVF should not effected by film-sim (others than showing colour for all the colour film-sims, and B+W for all the B+W film-sims) when Natural live view is ON.
Maybe someone with a later camera model could confirm this?
Thanks Andy. Nicely done as usual!
Thanks so much
Hey Andy, ‘natural live view’ is a way of viewing the histogram and image in its raw state. Once you take the image you then see the preview jpeg though until editing.
Thanks for the tip Lewis. I'm not sure the "natural live view" exists on the Fuji (happy to be corrected if I'm wrong), but it does exist on DJI drones, so I know what you mean
It is there on the X-T4 & GFX bodies, I think on the X-T3 as well. I use that as well Lewis, good tip!
@@AndyMumford it’s under wrench, screen setup, natural live view on. Definitely on my xt3. So handy I saved it to the ‘my menu’.
@@lewisdobbs7621 Thanks for that
A great set of tips, Andy! One useful hack to allow a quick check of the true RAW histogram: assign "NATURAL LIVE VIEW" to one of the custom buttons (I like the View Mode on X-T5 for this) and quickly toggle between the processed and untouched images. The untouched image will look dull, but show you the true histogram!
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video.
iso does not increase the sensitivity of the sensor nor the amount of light, it's the amplification of the signal which is dependent on shutter speed and aperture
Fujifilm video autofocus failing the photographer and the viewer, per usual. There are *no* excuses for this kind of performance in 2022. The X-H2 had better resolve all of these problems--ideally with an algorithm that makes its way into older cameras. It's just embarrassing at this point.
It's entirely possible that it was my fault. Before I shot this video we'd been messing around trying to photograph some nearby eagles and I had the AF set to continuous. I forgot to switch it back before recording this video.