Another good video Mason. One way to make the rectangular cutouts in the torsion box straighter and with less tear out is to use a track saw instead of a jig saw. Use a sharp forester bit in the corners first as you did, but then use your track saw with a short guide rail to cut between the holes. You won't been able to cut right into the corners so you will have to finish the cuts with some sort of handsaw, but if done carefully, the cutouts end up very clean and accurate.
Love this idea! Despite me using my track saw whenever I can, it’s almost always to cut down panels on my MFT and rarely for more creative uses like this - thanks for the idea!
I'm a bit late to the comments here, but I had a similar problem with burning when I built my mega mft. What I did was use a template and guide bush with my router to score a shallow groove to outline the cut out. Then I bored a hole with a drill bit away from the edge and used this as a starting point to cut out the bulk of the material with my jigsaw, leaving just a millimetre or so to trim away with the router. Because you are removing only a tiny bit of material, the bit runs cooler and you can cut much faster, and the finished hole is neater and cleaner with fewer and lighter scorch marks, that can easily be sanded out.
Love having smaller and more modular carts. Giant 4x8 only if I had a shop the size of empty four car garage. I have two 3x6 tables I can move around. Line them up or together different ways. They are small enough to sneak through between everything else in my crowded shop.
If you use the festool limit stops at the beginning and end of the rectangular cut outs you can line them up with the lines on your track saw and do a perfect plunge cut that cant go past the limit stop. Yeah youd probably still have to jig saw or router the short sides but you cant get a nicer, straighter cut then with the track saw.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I used the UJK Park Guide Mark II system and I did chamfer the holes with their chamfer + reamer tool. Such a great system!
Will osmo be too slippery for the top? Y'know what I'm also most interested in is how you intend to actually use this MFT top? Can you show some practical examples?
Osmo has been the perfect finish for my larger MFT as it’s hard and to your point, slippery. Makes it easy to manage material without damaging the top. I’ve already filmed the second part after I completed this one, which shows how I intend to use with it with the Festool Domino. It’s been fully built for a couple of weeks now and I’ve mainly been using it as an additional surface space for components when working on my larger MFT and it’s more recently become a temporary home for my laser cutter. One side of the base is full of Festool Systainers and the other side full of medium-sized sheet good offcuts.
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For those interested, here's the Cut List Optimizer file that I used: drive.google.com/file/d/1BJeUU1Gb_otRGLJSUZUrqrzrfwsaDdND/view?usp=sharing
Another good video Mason. One way to make the rectangular cutouts in the torsion box straighter and with less tear out is to use a track saw instead of a jig saw. Use a sharp forester bit in the corners first as you did, but then use your track saw with a short guide rail to cut between the holes. You won't been able to cut right into the corners so you will have to finish the cuts with some sort of handsaw, but if done carefully, the cutouts end up very clean and accurate.
Love this idea! Despite me using my track saw whenever I can, it’s almost always to cut down panels on my MFT and rarely for more creative uses like this - thanks for the idea!
I'm a bit late to the comments here, but I had a similar problem with burning when I built my mega mft. What I did was use a template and guide bush with my router to score a shallow groove to outline the cut out. Then I bored a hole with a drill bit away from the edge and used this as a starting point to cut out the bulk of the material with my jigsaw, leaving just a millimetre or so to trim away with the router. Because you are removing only a tiny bit of material, the bit runs cooler and you can cut much faster, and the finished hole is neater and cleaner with fewer and lighter scorch marks, that can easily be sanded out.
Great tip! I think that’s how I’ll do it next time and maybe even plunge saw for longer cuts.
Love having smaller and more modular carts. Giant 4x8 only if I had a shop the size of empty four car garage. I have two 3x6 tables I can move around. Line them up or together different ways. They are small enough to sneak through between everything else in my crowded shop.
If you use the festool limit stops at the beginning and end of the rectangular cut outs you can line them up with the lines on your track saw and do a perfect plunge cut that cant go past the limit stop. Yeah youd probably still have to jig saw or router the short sides but you cant get a nicer, straighter cut then with the track saw.
100% agree!
Great Video Cole!
Thanks!
Love your videos. Thank you
Awesome content! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Nice build! What system did you use for the MFT top? Also did you chamfer the holes?
Thanks for watching and commenting! I used the UJK Park Guide Mark II system and I did chamfer the holes with their chamfer + reamer tool. Such a great system!
Will osmo be too slippery for the top? Y'know what I'm also most interested in is how you intend to actually use this MFT top? Can you show some practical examples?
Osmo has been the perfect finish for my larger MFT as it’s hard and to your point, slippery. Makes it easy to manage material without damaging the top.
I’ve already filmed the second part after I completed this one, which shows how I intend to use with it with the Festool Domino. It’s been fully built for a couple of weeks now and I’ve mainly been using it as an additional surface space for components when working on my larger MFT and it’s more recently become a temporary home for my laser cutter. One side of the base is full of Festool Systainers and the other side full of medium-sized sheet good offcuts.