Hello my car is burning oil and I run 10w40 could it be the pcv valve theres no smoke and it isnt burning it fast like every 1.5 Months i have to fill it back up
Hi nice description on the PCV valve. I think my mazda 2 has blow by. When i open the oil cap during idle there is a lot of air pushing out but if i remove the dip stick theres no air pushing out there. There is also no smoke. Could this be my PCV valve? Or is this just normal?
@@zvonimirbobic1093 thanks. Before I proceed,I gonna change the oil to a 0w20. Previous owner changed the oil with a 15w40, and it makes me suspect that it clogged the pcv. Maybe with the proper 0w20 oil it gets fixed? Difficult to know really.
@@zvonimirbobic1093 yep, I changed oil to 5w30, car runs better with improved mpg. But the slight whistle and rough idle is still there, so I will replace the pcv for a new one. Is there any video or guide for removing the intake manifold to acces the oil separator and swap that little pcv? Thanks again :)
@@indoperfect4080 the whistle is from an air suction(vacuum leak)..i'd move away from pcv valve if i were u..go hook up a scanner and watch the live data..fuel trim, air/fuel ratio sensor..if it's lean at idle and improves at higher rpm, then you have a vacuum leak for sure..spray some water around to find where
But, to remove safely the air filter cover, I need to just remove the ECU cables and loosen the clamp of the elbow rubber air hose? What are the steps, to do it. I got it roughly by the explaination, but I ask just to be safe. I have that angle on the air filter rubber "gasket" too.
Exactly! Also, undo/release the four clips that hold the cover onto the filter and disconnect the MAF/IAT sensor as well. It is pretty much a straight forward job. Be cautious but not scared. Use a common sense. Be gentle with the connectors. When you connect them they make an audible snaping sound, because they lock in place, so when disconnecting them you have to use a small flathead screwdriver to release that lock.
@@zvonimirbobic1093 Another question, can that air passage, act as a vacuum leak and cause some lean misfires? With the scan tool I see 1 new misfire every acceleration, it happens on all cylinders. If i'm in a higher gear and low rpm, but with light acceleration, not that much. Because i'm going to change the spark plugs also, after 85.000 km, which is a bit early maybe (manual says 120.000 km)
@@Starfank a VACUUM LEAK is an air suction in an area "after" the throttle plate (which is essentialy an intake manifold and the hoses connected to it)..if it enters in an area between the throttle plate and the MAF sensor it is an AIR LEAK..and if it happens "before" the maf sensor then it is neither, it has no any effect..only an UNMETERED/UNMEASURED air that bypasses the maf sensor is a problem Your particular problem requires proper diagnosis, but yes, you could try with the spark plugs replacement
@@zvonimirbobic1093 Ordered now, i'll try, them my mechanic said that too. It happens only at warm engine (the warmer the engine, the worse the problem, but without check engine light) or at high gear low speed/rpm.
@@zvonimirbobic1093I did replace spark plugs yesterday, I did 70 km and it's better now, far more smoother, only few rpm variations from scan tool (649-653 rpm) sometimes still "coffs" from the exaust, but i would say 1 every 10-15 seconds. i choose 1.0 gap IK16TT instead of SK16PR-E13 (which were superseded toSK16PR-E11) do you know if it could make power or Fuel economy differences? Also, it's Ok for the Throttle absolute position being 10% - degrees? To me, seems high. May be a TPS problem? Can it be reset?
Both the ventilation hose and the charcoal canister hose are attached to the bottom of an air filter cover. There are the grooves designed for that.
Hello my car is burning oil and I run 10w40 could it be the pcv valve theres no smoke and it isnt burning it fast like every 1.5 Months i have to fill it back up
Maybe it’s leaking somewhere☝️..but, yes. Could be pcv
Hi nice description on the PCV valve. I think my mazda 2 has blow by. When i open the oil cap during idle there is a lot of air pushing out but if i remove the dip stick theres no air pushing out there. There is also no smoke. Could this be my PCV valve? Or is this just normal?
I noticed air/pressure coming out of the oil cap too
Would be nice to know the explanation
Hi, how to acces the pcv valve? Is needed to remove the intake manifold? Thx
i m afraid that yes it is needed
@@zvonimirbobic1093 thanks. Before I proceed,I gonna change the oil to a 0w20. Previous owner changed the oil with a 15w40, and it makes me suspect that it clogged the pcv. Maybe with the proper 0w20 oil it gets fixed? Difficult to know really.
@@indoperfect4080 I use 10w40 after each 7000km..and I will stick to it no matter what..yours is not a problem of oil thickness neither!
@@zvonimirbobic1093 yep, I changed oil to 5w30, car runs better with improved mpg. But the slight whistle and rough idle is still there, so I will replace the pcv for a new one.
Is there any video or guide for removing the intake manifold to acces the oil separator and swap that little pcv? Thanks again :)
@@indoperfect4080 the whistle is from an air suction(vacuum leak)..i'd move away from pcv valve if i were u..go hook up a scanner and watch the live data..fuel trim, air/fuel ratio sensor..if it's lean at idle and improves at higher rpm, then you have a vacuum leak for sure..spray some water around to find where
But, to remove safely the air filter cover, I need to just remove the ECU cables and loosen the clamp of the elbow rubber air hose? What are the steps, to do it. I got it roughly by the explaination, but I ask just to be safe. I have that angle on the air filter rubber "gasket" too.
Exactly! Also, undo/release the four clips that hold the cover onto the filter and disconnect the MAF/IAT sensor as well. It is pretty much a straight forward job. Be cautious but not scared. Use a common sense. Be gentle with the connectors. When you connect them they make an audible snaping sound, because they lock in place, so when disconnecting them you have to use a small flathead screwdriver to release that lock.
@@zvonimirbobic1093 Another question, can that air passage, act as a vacuum leak and cause some lean misfires? With the scan tool I see 1 new misfire every acceleration, it happens on all cylinders. If i'm in a higher gear and low rpm, but with light acceleration, not that much. Because i'm going to change the spark plugs also, after 85.000 km, which is a bit early maybe (manual says 120.000 km)
@@Starfank a VACUUM LEAK is an air suction in an area "after" the throttle plate (which is essentialy an intake manifold and the hoses connected to it)..if it enters in an area between the throttle plate and the MAF sensor it is an AIR LEAK..and if it happens "before" the maf sensor then it is neither, it has no any effect..only an UNMETERED/UNMEASURED air that bypasses the maf sensor is a problem
Your particular problem requires proper diagnosis, but yes, you could try with the spark plugs replacement
@@zvonimirbobic1093 Ordered now, i'll try, them my mechanic said that too. It happens only at warm engine (the warmer the engine, the worse the problem, but without check engine light) or at high gear low speed/rpm.
@@zvonimirbobic1093I did replace spark plugs yesterday, I did 70 km and it's better now, far more smoother, only few rpm variations from scan tool (649-653 rpm) sometimes still "coffs" from the exaust, but i would say 1 every 10-15 seconds. i choose 1.0 gap IK16TT instead of SK16PR-E13 (which were superseded toSK16PR-E11) do you know if it could make power or Fuel economy differences? Also, it's Ok for the Throttle absolute position being 10% - degrees? To me, seems high. May be a TPS problem? Can it be reset?