Thanks so much for putting this video together. I was having a tough time finding a photo of all the connections as most results were showing for the R1+ (Had to replace the Arduino board on my R1 w/ auto bed level). Been following you for years. Thanks again!
Great instructional video Marquis. Something to be aware of. I recently pulled the bottom of my printer off to remove the Y axis bearing mounts (the bearings were sloppy in the mounts and could be moved up and down). A small screw, nut and a heat sink fell out! Turns out they belonged on the mosfet (?) located next to D8 and D9! Fortunately, they didn't short anything out. Everyone might want to check to make sure theirs is securely on and tight. Don't want to burn the house (dorm) down! :-)
+Wayne Hobbins DEFINATELY! when I got my second one (ruclips.net/video/S5poGFPFkBk/видео.html), the power supply failed because of that mosfet heatsink.
OK, I have a stupid question, which motor is Z zero and which motor is Z one? My ramps board has the Z zero connector in the middle of the board and Z one on the right side of the board. Your placing the motor plugs with the blue wire facing away from the power connector and the Robo ramps schematic shows it reversed. I am wiring from scratch with nothing labeled. Thank you!
Hey, while printing recently I heard a pop and smelled burned electrical. Now my extruder stepper does not work. I tried swapping a functioning driver from the X axis, but still no movement from extruder stepper. I then swapped stepper motor leads between the X driver and E driver. The X driver operated the E motor, but the E driver did not operate the X axis. I don't see any obvious burns or busted capacitors. If its not the motor and not the driver a component on the ramps board must have failed? Replace RAMPS board?
On my old board, I have FAN0 on bottom right, and FAN2, LED1, and LED2 in upper left. Which fan goes into D9 on the new board? Where should LED's and other fan connect on new board. AUX? Does it matter which AUX slots?
II just lost my X axis motion. The stepper motor is ok, so I believe the stepper controller board is bad. Where do I get a replacement stepper controller board and how do I set the voltage?
+Larry Perry Parts Replacement Request: robo3d.com/warranty/#tab-id-4 If you want to check if your driver is just acting funny, here's a forum thread too: bit.ly/1kZH3fY
BUILD THE NEW PRINTER BUILD IT WOOOO HOOOOO! Also can we get dual extruders to work on the Robo3d or would we need a new ramps board and a separate driver ? I really wish i could change my heat bed with a customized aluminum bed with a removable glass similar to the ultimaker the bed on my printer sort of gets hotter on one spot. I thought PET filament would not warp but large prints warp on me like crazy and i have tried glue and hairspray
+Breaking Elegance All you need is another driver, our ramps boards support two extruders (E0,E1). I had an aluminum bed for awhile, never thought to make an aluminum glass hybrid though...might put that on the back burner.
that was really good, thanks. Do you have tips for an extruder stepper that stopped working? The driver was loose, but doesnt seem to work when plugged back in properly, guessing it blew somehow.
+Boiled Sprat (TheBoiledSprat) If you are looking at them with the LED to the left. (from left to right) pins 1,2,3 are 12V; pins 4,5,6 are GND; pins 7,8,9 are AC input
Once i get my Robo 3d r1 running, I am thinking about making another 3d printer that is like the Kossel version. But first going to build my 3d scanner the BQ 3d ciclop scanner.
Got a question on my current Robo r1+ board the right green power connector goes bed Heater then fan. Is that the way I should do it or should I follow this.
Cool video, thank you for sharing it with us. :-) I was wondering if you have considered upgrading your Robo with a Chimera or Cyclops hot end? Or, more accurately, Would you consider doing it? I am toying with it, but have yet to see someone do a video about such an upgrade. I would feel much better about trying it if I could see how it is done, since text doesn't do much for me. I learn better by seeing and doing, than reading about how to do it. Thank you, and have a great day. :-)
Very cool, I look forward to seeing that video. Are you aiming to get the Legends pack, or just one of the two extruder kits? If so, why are you going that rout? When you do get to making a video about the dual extruders, please make sure to show us how you did it. Along with any extra parts and resources you used. I know it would be a lot of work, but I would be extremely grateful if you could do that. If that isn't possible, I would simply be happy to hear your thoughts about how it works. I have been wanting to use a dual extruder for printing PVA, or some other easy to remove support material. Thank you for reading, and responding to my message, I really appreciate it. :-)
Just a suggestion. Most of us watching are noobies with their printers already fully disassembled. It wouldnt be such a big deal if all the wires and connectors were different.
I got a Robo like a year ago and these videos are helping me regret it less, you're a legend for all these vids
Thanks so much for putting this video together. I was having a tough time finding a photo of all the connections as most results were showing for the R1+ (Had to replace the Arduino board on my R1 w/ auto bed level). Been following you for years. Thanks again!
I found your channel 2 hours ago and holy your videos are awesome! It s 2 am at night but I carn t stop watching your vids!
Great instructional video Marquis.
Something to be aware of. I recently pulled the bottom of my printer off to remove the Y axis bearing mounts (the bearings were sloppy in the mounts and could be moved up and down).
A small screw, nut and a heat sink fell out! Turns out they belonged on the mosfet (?) located next to D8 and D9! Fortunately, they didn't short anything out.
Everyone might want to check to make sure theirs is securely on and tight.
Don't want to burn the house (dorm) down! :-)
+Wayne Hobbins DEFINATELY! when I got my second one (ruclips.net/video/S5poGFPFkBk/видео.html), the power supply failed because of that mosfet heatsink.
+Novice Expert how hot does the robo 3D extruder get out of the box no upgrades?
+jaden brooks I believe the software limits the extruder max temp to 290º C.
OK, I have a stupid question, which motor is Z zero and which motor is Z one? My ramps board has the Z zero connector in the middle of the board and Z one on the right side of the board. Your placing the motor plugs with the blue wire facing away from the power connector and the Robo ramps schematic shows it reversed. I am wiring from scratch with nothing labeled. Thank you!
Great video, very informative and helpful, cheers
Hey, while printing recently I heard a pop and smelled burned electrical. Now my extruder stepper does not work. I tried swapping a functioning driver from the X axis, but still no movement from extruder stepper. I then swapped stepper motor leads between the X driver and E driver. The X driver operated the E motor, but the E driver did not operate the X axis. I don't see any obvious burns or busted capacitors. If its not the motor and not the driver a component on the ramps board must have failed? Replace RAMPS board?
+Lee Campbell That seems like what happened. Try moving E0 to E1 and then remap the firmware to use the secondary extruder as the primary.
On my old board, I have FAN0 on bottom right, and FAN2, LED1, and LED2 in upper left. Which fan goes into D9 on the new board? Where should LED's and other fan connect on new board. AUX? Does it matter which AUX slots?
I BELIEVE (not sure) that all AUX are 12v rails that you should be able to power any accessory with
i have a robo 3d r1 plus i unpluged the ramps cooling fan where does it plug in on
II just lost my X axis motion. The stepper motor is ok, so I believe the stepper controller board is bad. Where do I get a replacement stepper controller board and how do I set the voltage?
+Larry Perry Parts Replacement Request: robo3d.com/warranty/#tab-id-4
If you want to check if your driver is just acting funny, here's a forum thread too: bit.ly/1kZH3fY
Thank you so much for this video! Very helpful and informative. I appreciate it
i usually work in a right to left direction so i don't need to move around wires to get under them
BUILD THE NEW PRINTER BUILD IT WOOOO HOOOOO! Also can we get dual extruders to work on the Robo3d or would we need a new ramps board and a separate driver ? I really wish i could change my heat bed with a customized aluminum bed with a removable glass similar to the ultimaker the bed on my printer sort of gets hotter on one spot. I thought PET filament would not warp but large prints warp on me like crazy and i have tried glue and hairspray
+Breaking Elegance All you need is another driver, our ramps boards support two extruders (E0,E1). I had an aluminum bed for awhile, never thought to make an aluminum glass hybrid though...might put that on the back burner.
that was really good, thanks. Do you have tips for an extruder stepper that stopped working? The driver was loose, but doesnt seem to work when plugged back in properly, guessing it blew somehow.
I'll have to make a video diagnosing drivers soon
What are the power supply pinouts? are they all 12v and ground sources? going to try to retro fit this to a da vinci 1.0 printer
+Boiled Sprat (TheBoiledSprat) If you are looking at them with the LED to the left. (from left to right)
pins 1,2,3 are 12V;
pins 4,5,6 are GND;
pins 7,8,9 are AC input
Thanks!!!
thanks the video solved my problem thanks a mill your videos are very helpful to this robo 3d r1 plus owner.
Once i get my Robo 3d r1 running, I am thinking about making another 3d printer that is like the Kossel version. But first going to build my 3d scanner the BQ 3d ciclop scanner.
+dragnet53 That would be awesome, my old engineering teacher wants me to build one as well. Kossels are awesome
just got a RAMPS 1.4 for my Da Vinci. Great Video.
Got a question on my current Robo r1+ board the right green power connector goes bed Heater then fan. Is that the way I should do it or should I follow this.
Any pin can be assigned to any transitor, you just need to take note of the difference if you modify firmware.
Cool video, thank you for sharing it with us. :-)
I was wondering if you have considered upgrading your Robo with a Chimera or Cyclops hot end? Or, more accurately, Would you consider doing it?
I am toying with it, but have yet to see someone do a video about such an upgrade. I would feel much better about trying it if I could see how it is done, since text doesn't do much for me. I learn better by seeing and doing, than reading about how to do it. Thank you, and have a great day. :-)
+Benjamin MacRae Not just considering, I definitely will, just need to get the parts.
Very cool, I look forward to seeing that video. Are you aiming to get the Legends pack, or just one of the two extruder kits? If so, why are you going that rout?
When you do get to making a video about the dual extruders, please make sure to show us how you did it. Along with any extra parts and resources you used.
I know it would be a lot of work, but I would be extremely grateful if you could do that.
If that isn't possible, I would simply be happy to hear your thoughts about how it works. I have been wanting to use a dual extruder for printing PVA, or some other easy to remove support material.
Thank you for reading, and responding to my message, I really appreciate it. :-)
It's all very simple. you just have to have a board that has everything labeled, and then you follow the labeling. easy peasy.
Love your UserName
How's Shaggy?
You should totally redo this using a stock robo r1 without the upgrades.
+Eastside08 I don't understand why. up to 16:40 is all stock configuration.
Just a suggestion. Most of us watching are noobies with their printers already fully disassembled. It wouldnt be such a big deal if all the wires and connectors were different.