Thanks for clarifying. So I did get functionality right regarding it being for expansion but what it actually is incorrect. In hindsight that makes a lot more sense 😂
@@landroveraddict2457 I'm just thinking I'll aim v0.1 for engineering grade material and leverage the speed. The only downside is size, but I might be able to justify a 2.4 built for size later. For me the v0.1 checks my boxes, and the community aspect is the icing on the cake really. The rat rig is cool but I feel like it would be less reliable when future proofing. Just my thoughts
Rule of thumb is to overspec the capacitor voltage rating to account for ripple, voltage transients, and capacitance loss at higher DC bias. 48VDC power rail would need at minimum 63V rated capacitors, ideally 75V *Edit: A system that has 40V+ rails is considered a potential shock hazard and may be subject to additional safety regulations.
Sounds like you could make two same size printer, use one board and you can do duplication mode all at one wack. four drivers per printer, yep. that would be sweet, matter of fact, I might just build one, use 400mm split it in the middle make two 180mm x 180 print beds and go to town.
I just want to Thank you for making these in-depth products overviews. I started with a Ender S1 Pro and felt in love with 3D-printer world. Now I’m building my own CoreXy and find a lot of nice and mainly Honest information in your videos. Thanks for that. And keep doing that awkward looking “let’s get in to todays video” 😂 PEACE
Not embedded so we can run close loop S42B stepper motors which are excellent for X & Y and should see more and more to move into 3D printing to avoid layer shifts. Also it would be very interesting if instead of a stepper driver for a stepper motor we can add a filament runout and or fan control module into the same place. Also you need this board if you just do dual extruder, mainly even an SKR 1.4 turbo reaches it's limits because FAN control is the problem on that board with only a single controllable FAN port 2.3 the other 3 fan ports are not controllable on that board which is a bigger draw back but for us as a 3D print farm not a problem to have them run all the time.
@Daniel Massicotte I do need 4 at least but better are 6. And you talking SKR 1.4 Turbo 1.0 or 2.0 Board? The 2.0 is junk HE circuits don't hold up to high amp ranges and burn the board.
If you use a touchscreen (or klipper with webinterface), EXP1 and EXP2 with all the i/o are free. SKR even offers a cheap PCB to add 3 stepper modules there. Or connect mosfets for different fans there. For Closed loop, simply put step/dir/!en for x and y here directly by dupont cables and edit the pin....h Also if you use anything else than a bl-touch, you can redifine the servo pin to control an external mosfet. Or if you use ac heated bed, define this pin as heated bed an redrfine the heater output as fan output. Free input pins can be redefined as output also. Due to voltage divider to make them 5V tolerant, the high-level is not in the valid range, so you have to get rid of the devider or use a schmitt-trigger to get the level up again.
Let's see, 8 steppers, what could I do? Standard 3 for X Y and Z and a 5 in one out mixing head for some really cool multicolour printing and a 32 bit board giving you the capability to actually use it, but maybe I am just dreaming
@@devilliersduplessis7904 prob not financial reasons the octopus and skr 2 are around the same price without stepper drivers added to the cost of the octopus, prob just because the octopus is a bit overkill for most builds
YEP! I am gathering all the parts now, for a Voron 2.4. I will be using the BTT octopus board. But I will stick with Marlin for the firmware. I looked into Klipper, asked questions about it and got nothing but trolled while asking. So I'm out with using Klipper. Um sure Klipper is a nice firmware, but if people act like children, the firmware wont be around long.
I've heard that removable stepper drivers are more susceptible to failure, because the removable form factor is not ideal for heat dissipation. Most of the ICs are designed to dump their heat into the PCB, and the removable PCB does not have very much thermal mass to help draw away the heat from the IC. So, it's like a self-fulfilling prophecy for people who prefer removable drivers. They fail more often, so their bias is confirmed. That said, the drivers can overheat when integrated into the electronics, if there is insufficient cooling in general.
Nah that's nonsense. If you heatsink them properly the difference is nominal at best. There's only so much heat a PCB can dissipate, and removable at least gets the option of going with Trinamic drivers or cheaper A4988. Most of the boards just do it because the pololu format is a restrictive pinout and more expensive than just including them on the PCB already.
I am going to use an fystec spider for my v1.8 multimaterial build. i had consider to buy an octopus but the fystec spider was easier to get at the time i was planing the build
You're going to need 9 for when you build your multi-filament feeder later on. On that basis, I still think you;re better off with 2xSKR1.4 which gives you 10 available slots.
If you want doing filament swapping right, you should do it the same way like Prusa does: The changer only moving the filament untill the direct extruder grab it or after it released the filament. So the changer is more or less a seperate unit anyway. You might want it be controlled by klipper - or simply run on its own, only reciving commands (like done on the MMU2). Anyway, due to much more easy wireing, a seperate controller just connected by USB and power directly mounted at a MMU2-style filament swapper would make the system more easy to wire up. Also at least for trying it, you can use an old RAMPS-based controller, wich might be a bit louder but being for free if you already have it from upgrading f.e. an Ender3. Or a SKR mini e3 with blown up x-driver (very common faliure on first batches) using the remaining working drivers...
Yes, you just need a driver for each motor being driven. Sometimes you can run 2 motors with 1 driver but they cannot be independent in motion. The mainboard works perfectly fine without drivers in all slots.
Hi I am thinking of getting one of these boards, I want to stage the upgrades and cost and wonder if this board will work with the display on an Ender 5. I think it is a great idea to have removable drivers. De-soldering an SMD chip always comes with risks, particularly if close to plastic headers and a removable driver would help with diagnostics, i.e just swap them around to track a fault. Thanks for your review. 👍
hi buddy very nice board in your opinion would you use this board or the btt skr e3 mini 1.4 in a new ender 3pro build with every upgrade i could find for it
I’ve been thinking about building the 0.1, but am a little intimidated, as I’ve never built a printer from scratch before. Would love to see some more videos on the build process.
The V2.4 that he's wanting to buildis a completely different build process to the 0.1 the motion systems aren't even the same. You're better off looking at CNC kitchen or nero 3dp
@@jakeengland1430 he actually said he’s building the 0.1. However I have watched videos on both those channels. I think the way ModBot explains things is a little more easy for me to digest though.
Had to remove my BTT SKR mini V1.3 from my Ender 3 Pro. Tried it for a few months, different firmware flashes, checked installation, kept freezing and glitching. Running my old Creality V4.2.7 32bit board and it's smooth as glass and much quieter, nearly completely silent. Always reliable. I don't think I'll trust BTT again.
Would like to know if someone found out if the heated bead can work with PID or if it just switches on and off. The samples on the github page of BTT and also Klipper just show samples with "watermark" (run until slightly above target, turn off until slightly below target, turn on again, a.s.o.).
Is there a way to add ethernet to octopus board instead of wi-fi? Probably a ethernet breakout board with UART or SPI interface. Looking to connect my RPi remote server to 3d printer.
Actually H-Briges are not the right thing to controll Stepper Motors. They work only if the voltage and the internal resistence of the motor fits. Fischertechnik made a plotter in the mid 80s working fine with the 6.8V used at the time; the controller used H-Bridges. Also actual modern Fischertechnik Controlers use H-Bridges - but with now 9V the Steppermotors overheat. So you definitly should use current controll on stepper modules. But if you adjust current manualy by Vref poti on a stepper module, you only need 3 signals: DIR,STEP and !Enable. You can connect !Enable to ground if always on is OK in your aplication (or share !En between multiple steppers). So only 2 lines needed to control a stepper. If you use touchscreen, EXP1 and EXP2 have a lot of free I/O. You can connect extra stepper modules there. Bigtreetech even offers a cheep 3-socket extension for theese ports to put 3 modules there, upgrading a SKR 1.3/1.4 from 5 to 8 drivers. Of course a mux is usefull if you use a 4-way filament splitter, to do multicolour. As only one feeder at a time moves, you can actually solder 4 driver modules on top of each other, without !Enable pin. The mux selects wich driver is enabled. But here also SPI setup is only done at boot, so you should use the stepper drivers in standalone mode. To use a free Input pin as output, be aware on 3.3 V input pins are mostly made 5V tolerant by a voltage devider. If you for example use Power Detection Input as an output, the 3.3V output signal is reduced to less than 1.8V - invalid logic pegel. Your mux have to be designed to take care of this, f.e. using a Schmitt-Trigger to get a clean signal. Analysing and modifying in pin.h is a quite powerful thing to increase board abilitys - or even repair boards. For example with soldered drivers and one being defect, but free I/O available, simply connect one driver module externaly and redefine pins... Just recently done this with a z-endstop with damaged trace on the pcb. A simple change in pin...h and the unused power loss detection port became new z_min.
A very good video and the Octopus seem to be a very good product. On the other hand, a Voron 2.4 is normaly not a printer most users build as there first project. So you might have a lot parts already flying around, collecting dust. To use multiple boards instead of one board might be the better option. For example: Are TMC realy nessacarry on the 4 z-axis? Is an old 8bit Creality board with A4988 or any other RAMPS not efficient enough for conrolling z, as after the upgrade of an Ender 3 to a SKR e3 mini V1 it is unused anyways. And after the x-stepper driver of the SKR e3 mini v1 had blown up (sadly sometimed happened) - you have still 3 working TMC, so why not using this board for x y and e? So I think it is a bit sad to buy new parts if you can reuse old parts instead to do the same. Of course, if you already build some Vorons reusing old parts and reused them all and actually need new controllers (or use other firmware than klipper), the Octopus is an facinating option. As for changable drivers or pcb-mounted ones: There is no definitive answer. TMCs are made to be cooled from the underside by a big copper space underside the pcb - as it is well done on a SKR e3 mini V2 f.e. The modules do not have enough space, so you need extra heatsink and more airflow. Also no jumpering needed, so more beginner friendly as a drop-in replacement. On the other hand, with a printer you tinker around with, modules are more flexible. Esp. if you try out closed loop steppers, there you are just using Dir/Step/!Enable and not a driver module... So it is a decission you always have to make individual for the project you want to realise.
I have the BTT SKR e# turbo. STAY AWAY FROM IT!!! yeahh it does not support PT1000 therimstor. I have it and I can't use it ( tech support from said NOT suppoort pt100 or pt1000) . So Ironically I really do want to know is EVERYTHING on this octopus board better then the skr e3 turbo?? I have my board inside the frame spots for my ender 3 pro, and well I may just have to get a box for this specifically if it is trully better then the SKR E3 turbo in every other way? I have TWO skr boards. one is the non working one because of the bad inductors proir to decemeber 2020...so if you get one make sure it is from BTT and a newer one too.
@@ModBotArmy You can surly reuse any Hotend-Heater for a second bed, if you add an external Mosfet or SSR. Multiple Beds in series are dangerous, as than you only have one thermistor assigned, so you could not controll temperature on second bed. But with 5 mosfets (one more powerful for a bed) and 5 corespondending thermistorinputs you can control 5 heat sources. depending of the power to control eventual with aditional MosFet or SSR. If it is a bed, a chamber heater or a hotend does not matter.
@@tommihommi1 As said: you need a thermistor input anyway, so most easy way is to use one of the hotend outputs to connect an external mosfet or SSR. This is more easy esp. if useing Marlin, as for useing the pins on the exp. you have to edit the definitions - and do it again for every update. Of course on Klipper you have to do Pin definitions only once. But if you use Klipper, Only reason to use exp. instead of heater output would be to use the existing heater mosfet as extra controlable fan output.
@modbot do you know anyone who would be able to help me out with completing my voron 2.4 350mm with octopus 1.1 trying to get klipper screen installed but I can't get it I'm willing to pay too
Just upgrade your Ender 3 to a second z-leadscrew with seperate endstop, change the x-axis to a longer one and add a second printhead, making it IDEX, just to justify the octopus 😃Or just use use a 4-way splitter with 4 feeders (an easy hardware mod but much tinkering with optimal load/unload sequence needed) to print multicolour. Esp an Ender 3 as a cheap tinkering platform definitly can make use of a board with many drivers. On systems using klipper, multiple boards are a more easy option...
Hi, thank you for the video! Any chance you could help me? I can't seem to get the extruder to work. Everything else works fine. And yes, it's hot haha running Marlin
I'd like to have servo motors & ball screws instead of stepper motors & lead screws since they are more accurat. But I would want a detailed instructions for setting this up with out going into the firmware to change a lot of stuff. I believe a 3D printer should work right out of the box without having to edit firmware. That is the major reason I will not purchase a 3D printer at this time. I have a 4 axis milling machine that I have not had to go into the firmware to get the milling machine to run like it should. It will be probably 10 years before the 3D printers can compete with milling machines or lathes. The quality & surface finish are not even close to a milling machine or lathe. All 3D printers are just toys that can't produce parts the surface finish or tolerance's that a milling machine or lathe can. There is no 3D printer that can hold +/- .001.
This comes across as an advertisement / undisclosed sponsered video. Perhaps it was mentioned and I just missed it or something. Seems odd for this channel to overview a board with out a use for it.
The RJ port on the board is not ethernet (RJ45). It is CAN bus (RJ11).
Thanks for clarifying. So I did get functionality right regarding it being for expansion but what it actually is incorrect. In hindsight that makes a lot more sense 😂
What I would like to see is a RatRig versus a Voron comparison.
This!
Dude same
Yes me to, I am starting to put bits away for a new build and would like to know how they compare.
@@landroveraddict2457 I'm just thinking I'll aim v0.1 for engineering grade material and leverage the speed. The only downside is size, but I might be able to justify a 2.4 built for size later. For me the v0.1 checks my boxes, and the community aspect is the icing on the cake really. The rat rig is cool but I feel like it would be less reliable when future proofing. Just my thoughts
@@felurianmasters4369 You make a very good point, thank you.
I bought this board to put in a RatRig vcore 3. Can’t wait to start that build.
I also have this board at home and just ordered a ratrig. Really excited
Same here
i wish they would of went with 50v caps so if you want to run the steppers at 48v you could then this board would of been almost perfect
Rule of thumb is to overspec the capacitor voltage rating to account for ripple, voltage transients, and capacitance loss at higher DC bias.
48VDC power rail would need at minimum 63V rated capacitors, ideally 75V
*Edit: A system that has 40V+ rails is considered a potential shock hazard and may be subject to additional safety regulations.
What’s the reason 50v would be preferred?
You can always rework the board if you REALLY want to -- but checking the power rails is also important
they are about to release a "Pro" version that has 50v caps. announcement on Facebook a few days ago
@@MrDead1975 FANTASTIC!!! Nema23 here we go
Sounds like you could make two same size printer, use one board and you can do duplication mode all at one wack. four drivers per printer, yep. that would be sweet, matter of fact, I might just build one, use 400mm split it in the middle make two 180mm x 180 print beds and go to town.
I just want to Thank you for making these in-depth products overviews. I started with a Ender S1 Pro and felt in love with 3D-printer world. Now I’m building my own CoreXy and find a lot of nice and mainly Honest information in your videos. Thanks for that. And keep doing that awkward looking “let’s get in to todays video” 😂 PEACE
Not embedded so we can run close loop S42B stepper motors which are excellent for X & Y and should see more and more to move into 3D printing to avoid layer shifts.
Also it would be very interesting if instead of a stepper driver for a stepper motor we can add a filament runout and or fan control module into the same place.
Also you need this board if you just do dual extruder, mainly even an SKR 1.4 turbo reaches it's limits because FAN control is the problem on that board with only a single controllable FAN port 2.3 the other 3 fan ports are not controllable on that board which is a bigger draw back but for us as a 3D print farm not a problem to have them run all the time.
@Daniel Massicotte I do need 4 at least but better are 6. And you talking SKR 1.4 Turbo 1.0 or 2.0 Board? The 2.0 is junk HE circuits don't hold up to high amp ranges and burn the board.
If you use a touchscreen (or klipper with webinterface), EXP1 and EXP2 with all the i/o are free. SKR even offers a cheap PCB to add 3 stepper modules there. Or connect mosfets for different fans there.
For Closed loop, simply put step/dir/!en for x and y here directly by dupont cables and edit the pin....h
Also if you use anything else than a bl-touch, you can redifine the servo pin to control an external mosfet. Or if you use ac heated bed, define this pin as heated bed an redrfine the heater output as fan output.
Free input pins can be redefined as output also. Due to voltage divider to make them 5V tolerant, the high-level is not in the valid range, so you have to get rid of the devider or use a schmitt-trigger to get the level up again.
Let's see, 8 steppers, what could I do? Standard 3 for X Y and Z and a 5 in one out mixing head for some really cool multicolour printing and a 32 bit board giving you the capability to actually use it, but maybe I am just dreaming
This is why I bought this board lol
Working great in my ender 5+ idex mod with klipper.
Do you use dual Z stepper motors? Been thinking of getting this to handle all the motors for an idex Ender 3
@@Alex10000131 I have dual x, e, and z all independents. I want to put 2 y motors on the z (not independent) and a third z is in my future.
I would love one of these with a raspberry pi CM slot
Very informative thanks
I almost got the 🐙 but settled on the skr2. Still compiling firmware for it, my first time. They do seem to make decent boards
financial reasons or something else? really curious about the skr2 vs octo comparison.
@@devilliersduplessis7904 prob not financial reasons the octopus and skr 2 are around the same price without stepper drivers added to the cost of the octopus, prob just because the octopus is a bit overkill for most builds
Wow, must get one of these for my VORON 2.4 printer project!
Currently building the v2.4 350. Leaning towards the Octopus. Torn between the Octopus and the Spider
YEP! I am gathering all the parts now, for a Voron 2.4. I will be using the BTT octopus board. But I will stick with Marlin for the firmware. I looked into Klipper, asked questions about it and got nothing but trolled while asking. So I'm out with using Klipper. Um sure Klipper is a nice firmware, but if people act like children, the firmware wont be around long.
Thank you. 👍🏻
Almost ready to do the firmware for my Voron 2.4 using the BTT Octopus. I just have to order some power blocks I forgot about.
whoa Man this is Dope!!!
I've heard that removable stepper drivers are more susceptible to failure, because the removable form factor is not ideal for heat dissipation. Most of the ICs are designed to dump their heat into the PCB, and the removable PCB does not have very much thermal mass to help draw away the heat from the IC.
So, it's like a self-fulfilling prophecy for people who prefer removable drivers. They fail more often, so their bias is confirmed.
That said, the drivers can overheat when integrated into the electronics, if there is insufficient cooling in general.
Nah that's nonsense. If you heatsink them properly the difference is nominal at best. There's only so much heat a PCB can dissipate, and removable at least gets the option of going with Trinamic drivers or cheaper A4988. Most of the boards just do it because the pololu format is a restrictive pinout and more expensive than just including them on the PCB already.
I don't know much about this stuff but i'm going to ask any ways can GRBL be flashed onto this board to run a desktop milling Ginmitsu 3020?
Voron 2.4 other way ... and am considering the 🐙 at this stage ... my build will start in September
I am going to use an fystec spider for my v1.8 multimaterial build. i had consider to buy an octopus but the fystec spider was easier to get at the time i was planing the build
Great video!
Fysetc Spider is a solid contender as well.
It's good for general purpose robotics projects
You're going to need 9 for when you build your multi-filament feeder later on. On that basis, I still think you;re better off with 2xSKR1.4 which gives you 10 available slots.
Then why not 2 Octo boards for 16? The point was to “get it done” with one board. If you’re going to stick in two anyway, why not?
If you want doing filament swapping right, you should do it the same way like Prusa does: The changer only moving the filament untill the direct extruder grab it or after it released the filament. So the changer is more or less a seperate unit anyway. You might want it be controlled by klipper - or simply run on its own, only reciving commands (like done on the MMU2). Anyway, due to much more easy wireing, a seperate controller just connected by USB and power directly mounted at a MMU2-style filament swapper would make the system more easy to wire up. Also at least for trying it, you can use an old RAMPS-based controller, wich might be a bit louder but being for free if you already have it from upgrading f.e. an Ender3. Or a SKR mini e3 with blown up x-driver (very common faliure on first batches) using the remaining working drivers...
Removable is ALWAYS better in my opinion unless you really need the space
Could this be used on a project with 6 motors that isn't related to CNC?
Will this board allow me to replace the current board on my Cubex 3D printer? Thanks.
Can you run these boards with some drivers missing? Want to buy this for future proofing and don't need all of them yet.
Yes, you just need a driver for each motor being driven. Sometimes you can run 2 motors with 1 driver but they cannot be independent in motion. The mainboard works perfectly fine without drivers in all slots.
Hi I am thinking of getting one of these boards, I want to stage the upgrades and cost and wonder if this board will work with the display on an Ender 5. I think it is a great idea to have removable drivers. De-soldering an SMD chip always comes with risks, particularly if close to plastic headers and a removable driver would help with diagnostics, i.e just swap them around to track a fault. Thanks for your review. 👍
hi buddy very nice board in your opinion would you use this board or the btt skr e3 mini 1.4 in a new ender 3pro build with every upgrade i could find for it
I’ve been thinking about building the 0.1, but am a little intimidated, as I’ve never built a printer from scratch before. Would love to see some more videos on the build process.
The V2.4 that he's wanting to buildis a completely different build process to the 0.1 the motion systems aren't even the same. You're better off looking at CNC kitchen or nero 3dp
@@jakeengland1430 he actually said he’s building the 0.1. However I have watched videos on both those channels. I think the way ModBot explains things is a little more easy for me to digest though.
Correction: he said he’s going to build the 0.1 sooner and the 2.4 later down the road
does the board has any sort of CE/FCC certificate?
So is their any way you could configure it to run a delta printer, have a 3 in 1 out nozzle and would love to use this board for that project.
Had to remove my BTT SKR mini V1.3 from my Ender 3 Pro. Tried it for a few months, different firmware flashes, checked installation, kept freezing and glitching.
Running my old Creality V4.2.7 32bit board and it's smooth as glass and much quieter, nearly completely silent. Always reliable.
I don't think I'll trust BTT again.
How many PT100 Sensor we can use in this board
Just got the skr mini e3 ,was thinking about getting this too
How would you compare to Duet 3d ?
Hey there can it work with out raspberry pi, cause I bought it only motherboard, and product can't shift in my country. ( shipping cost 40$ + 6%tax )
Im debating a voron 2.4 build myself. Not that i need the thing, i just like to make stuff, lol.
Does it work with mach3 for CNC machines?
Would like to know if someone found out if the heated bead can work with PID or if it just switches on and off. The samples on the github page of BTT and also Klipper just show samples with "watermark" (run until slightly above target, turn off until slightly below target, turn on again, a.s.o.).
Is there a way to add ethernet to octopus board instead of wi-fi? Probably a ethernet breakout board with UART or SPI interface. Looking to connect my RPi remote server to 3d printer.
i cant get my ender 3 v2 screen working... :( on marlin
what if you use a 15 cent mux to address dual h-bridges, all the eway to N stepper motors?
Actually H-Briges are not the right thing to controll Stepper Motors. They work only if the voltage and the internal resistence of the motor fits. Fischertechnik made a plotter in the mid 80s working fine with the 6.8V used at the time; the controller used H-Bridges. Also actual modern Fischertechnik Controlers use H-Bridges - but with now 9V the Steppermotors overheat.
So you definitly should use current controll on stepper modules.
But if you adjust current manualy by Vref poti on a stepper module, you only need 3 signals: DIR,STEP and !Enable. You can connect !Enable to ground if always on is OK in your aplication (or share !En between multiple steppers). So only 2 lines needed to control a stepper.
If you use touchscreen, EXP1 and EXP2 have a lot of free I/O. You can connect extra stepper modules there. Bigtreetech even offers a cheep 3-socket extension for theese ports to put 3 modules there, upgrading a SKR 1.3/1.4 from 5 to 8 drivers.
Of course a mux is usefull if you use a 4-way filament splitter, to do multicolour. As only one feeder at a time moves, you can actually solder 4 driver modules on top of each other, without !Enable pin. The mux selects wich driver is enabled. But here also SPI setup is only done at boot, so you should use the stepper drivers in standalone mode.
To use a free Input pin as output, be aware on 3.3 V input pins are mostly made 5V tolerant by a voltage devider. If you for example use Power Detection Input as an output, the 3.3V output signal is reduced to less than 1.8V - invalid logic pegel. Your mux have to be designed to take care of this, f.e. using a Schmitt-Trigger to get a clean signal.
Analysing and modifying in pin.h is a quite powerful thing to increase board abilitys - or even repair boards. For example with soldered drivers and one being defect, but free I/O available, simply connect one driver module externaly and redefine pins... Just recently done this with a z-endstop with damaged trace on the pcb. A simple change in pin...h and the unused power loss detection port became new z_min.
A very good video and the Octopus seem to be a very good product.
On the other hand, a Voron 2.4 is normaly not a printer most users build as there first project. So you might have a lot parts already flying around, collecting dust. To use multiple boards instead of one board might be the better option. For example: Are TMC realy nessacarry on the 4 z-axis? Is an old 8bit Creality board with A4988 or any other RAMPS not efficient enough for conrolling z, as after the upgrade of an Ender 3 to a SKR e3 mini V1 it is unused anyways. And after the x-stepper driver of the SKR e3 mini v1 had blown up (sadly sometimed happened) - you have still 3 working TMC, so why not using this board for x y and e?
So I think it is a bit sad to buy new parts if you can reuse old parts instead to do the same. Of course, if you already build some Vorons reusing old parts and reused them all and actually need new controllers (or use other firmware than klipper), the Octopus is an facinating option.
As for changable drivers or pcb-mounted ones: There is no definitive answer. TMCs are made to be cooled from the underside by a big copper space underside the pcb - as it is well done on a SKR e3 mini V2 f.e. The modules do not have enough space, so you need extra heatsink and more airflow. Also no jumpering needed, so more beginner friendly as a drop-in replacement.
On the other hand, with a printer you tinker around with, modules are more flexible. Esp. if you try out closed loop steppers, there you are just using Dir/Step/!Enable and not a driver module...
So it is a decission you always have to make individual for the project you want to realise.
So wait, does this board negate the need for a raspberry pi?
Or do I just have a case of the big stupid?
My eight armed monster arrived, still whining about wether to make a Voron 2.4 or a BIIIG 1x2 meter multitool CO2 laser with 3D printing inside...
My XYZPrinting Davinci 1.0a is looking a bit nervous... Also, removable by far.
Manta M8P 😎
❤️
I have the BTT SKR e# turbo. STAY AWAY FROM IT!!! yeahh it does not support PT1000 therimstor. I have it and I can't use it ( tech support from said NOT suppoort pt100 or pt1000) . So Ironically I really do want to know is EVERYTHING on this octopus board better then the skr e3 turbo?? I have my board inside the frame spots for my ender 3 pro, and well I may just have to get a box for this specifically if it is trully better then the SKR E3 turbo in every other way? I have TWO skr boards. one is the non working one because of the bad inductors proir to decemeber 2020...so if you get one make sure it is from BTT and a newer one too.
can i add 2 bed heater to this board
There is only one output for the bed. I wonder if you could run them in series. It has 4 for hotends but only one defined for the bed.
@@ModBotArmy You can surly reuse any Hotend-Heater for a second bed, if you add an external Mosfet or SSR. Multiple Beds in series are dangerous, as than you only have one thermistor assigned, so you could not controll temperature on second bed. But with 5 mosfets (one more powerful for a bed) and 5 corespondending thermistorinputs you can control 5 heat sources. depending of the power to control eventual with aditional MosFet or SSR. If it is a bed, a chamber heater or a hotend does not matter.
you can also use the expansion ports for endstops and such for extra bed SSRs
@@tommihommi1 As said: you need a thermistor input anyway, so most easy way is to use one of the hotend outputs to connect an external mosfet or SSR. This is more easy esp. if useing Marlin, as for useing the pins on the exp. you have to edit the definitions - and do it again for every update. Of course on Klipper you have to do Pin definitions only once. But if you use Klipper,
Only reason to use exp. instead of heater output would be to use the existing heater mosfet as extra controlable fan output.
@modbot do you know anyone who would be able to help me out with completing my voron 2.4 350mm with octopus 1.1 trying to get klipper screen installed but I can't get it I'm willing to pay too
This board is an overkill for my ender 3..
Just upgrade your Ender 3 to a second z-leadscrew with seperate endstop, change the x-axis to a longer one and add a second printhead, making it IDEX, just to justify the octopus 😃Or just use use a 4-way splitter with 4 feeders (an easy hardware mod but much tinkering with optimal load/unload sequence needed) to print multicolour. Esp an Ender 3 as a cheap tinkering platform definitly can make use of a board with many drivers. On systems using klipper, multiple boards are a more easy option...
But not enough servos cant match RAMPS 1.4 8 bit
Hi, thank you for the video! Any chance you could help me? I can't seem to get the extruder to work. Everything else works fine. And yes, it's hot haha running Marlin
The extruder? Is the motor just not turning when you tell it to extrude?
why would anyone need 8 drivers ?
Lol did you watch the video? I named two reasons in the first couple minutes 😂
She is a monster, but firmeware can not be compiled and uploaded to board.... She... T
I'd like to have servo motors & ball screws instead of stepper motors & lead screws since they are more accurat. But I would want a detailed instructions for setting this up with out going into the firmware to change a lot of stuff. I believe a 3D printer should work right out of the box without having to edit firmware. That is the major reason I will not purchase a 3D printer at this time. I have a 4 axis milling machine that I have not had to go into the firmware to get the milling machine to run like it should. It will be probably 10 years before the 3D printers can compete with milling machines or lathes. The quality & surface finish are not even close to a milling machine or lathe. All 3D printers are just toys that can't produce parts the surface finish or tolerance's that a milling machine or lathe can. There is no 3D printer that can hold +/- .001.
the small talk in videos these days
I would never buy a board which has embedded motor drivers.
This comes across as an advertisement / undisclosed sponsered video. Perhaps it was mentioned and I just missed it or something. Seems odd for this channel to overview a board with out a use for it.
Not a sponsored video. It is an overview. Fairly common actually.
vc fala muito rapido!
typical youtuber 5 minutes on the subject and the rest is just self promotion
You got me pinned 😬
man your twitter sound is annoying