I'm always curious with this sort of thing, #1 did the builders install the flashings /cladding as per the drawn details on the plan? if so were the clients shown/consulted about the details before hand?
There was not any specific finishing details, there was images that were supplied by the owner as reference. The roofing/cladding company installed without any plans. And the clients were not consulted. Video 2 next week comes out next Wednesday and has more info… actually much more.
@@KingPostTimberWorks I agree completely. If the Cladder (tradesman) doesn’t have a track record you can trust, then that is also very risky.. that said. We all have to start somewhere!
What size air gap do you recommend between the wrap and colorbond to prevent wall condensation? Would minimum standards vary depending profile like trimdek vs hiland?
Great question, and it’s simple and complex at the same time. Basically, if you have a timber frame and metal cladding you must seperate the Colorbond cladding from the timber frame that is sarked. This can be on any thickness of batten that meets the calculated volume required to pass through (profile, length, width). I’m really just a dumb roofer that looks for the best simple answers for each process. If you follow the installation guides from the supplier and install onto either 20mm or 40mm battens… these acheive the gap every time. If you install permeable sarking (like proctor wrap) you add the ability for your inner wall breathing out into the gap. Lastly, regarding the condensation on the sheets… you could also add another layer of sarking over the battens. This would keep the condensation off the inner wall sarking. that being said however, I have never done that process as I think it would only really benefit very cold climates (and it is not documented anywhere, just my opinion)
@@ConstructingArt thanks for answering, I’ve got old house with rotted gables that I want to colorbond, so I’ll go wrap, 20mm batten then sheeting. I suspect doing it without batten would risk condensation issues, yet I’ve seen a company advertising they slap colorbond right ontop of weatherboards no gap. Anyway been watching your channel for a while your work is top quality.
@@Trolleycollectorthanks mate. There are many different ways to install. Straight onto of the boards would lead to a lot of twisting.. you could batten (40mm preferred) over the boards, adding bracing and firming up the wall. Then put the sheeting straight onto battens. However your best bet is to remove, sark, batten and sheet/flash. Yell out if you get stuck.
Massive massive issues ……. Just to start with trimdek never looks good period … I think you wanted standing seam - and your mate needs to drop the virtue signalling shirt
Love the feedback. The shirt is Trademutt, he’s (I) won’t be taking them off … appreciate the advice though 👍. Do you think ruclips.net/video/z1KSD1AIdI4/видео.htmlsi=0IL5bZS5yRUoYUhD job in trimdeck also looks bad or can I change your opinion 🙏🙏🙏. It certainly has issues. 😮
I'm always curious with this sort of thing, #1 did the builders install the flashings /cladding as per the drawn details on the plan? if so were the clients shown/consulted about the details before hand?
There was not any specific finishing details, there was images that were supplied by the owner as reference.
The roofing/cladding company installed without any plans. And the clients were not consulted.
Video 2 next week comes out next Wednesday and has more info… actually much more.
@@ConstructingArt Jeez - that is obviously a risky endeavor proceeding with no drawings! , but this does not excuse the rough/carless job.
@@KingPostTimberWorks I agree completely. If the Cladder (tradesman) doesn’t have a track record you can trust, then that is also very risky.. that said. We all have to start somewhere!
What size air gap do you recommend between the wrap and colorbond to prevent wall condensation? Would minimum standards vary depending profile like trimdek vs hiland?
Great question, and it’s simple and complex at the same time.
Basically, if you have a timber frame and metal cladding you must seperate the Colorbond cladding from the timber frame that is sarked.
This can be on any thickness of batten that meets the calculated volume required to pass through (profile, length, width).
I’m really just a dumb roofer that looks for the best simple answers for each process.
If you follow the installation guides from the supplier and install onto either 20mm or 40mm battens… these acheive the gap every time.
If you install permeable sarking (like proctor wrap) you add the ability for your inner wall breathing out into the gap.
Lastly, regarding the condensation on the sheets… you could also add another layer of sarking over the battens. This would keep the condensation off the inner wall sarking. that being said however, I have never done that process as I think it would only really benefit very cold climates (and it is not documented anywhere, just my opinion)
@@ConstructingArt thanks for answering, I’ve got old house with rotted gables that I want to colorbond, so I’ll go wrap, 20mm batten then sheeting. I suspect doing it without batten would risk condensation issues, yet I’ve seen a company advertising they slap colorbond right ontop of weatherboards no gap. Anyway been watching your channel for a while your work is top quality.
@@Trolleycollectorthanks mate. There are many different ways to install. Straight onto of the boards would lead to a lot of twisting.. you could batten (40mm preferred) over the boards, adding bracing and firming up the wall. Then put the sheeting straight onto battens.
However your best bet is to remove, sark, batten and sheet/flash. Yell out if you get stuck.
Bare pvc downpipes=non compliant
Nice pick up!
Australian dollors tho right?
$500,000 build plus land.
Massive massive issues ……. Just to start with trimdek never looks good period … I think you wanted standing seam - and your mate needs to drop the virtue signalling shirt
Love the feedback. The shirt is Trademutt, he’s (I) won’t be taking them off … appreciate the advice though 👍.
Do you think ruclips.net/video/z1KSD1AIdI4/видео.htmlsi=0IL5bZS5yRUoYUhD job in trimdeck also looks bad or can I change your opinion 🙏🙏🙏.
It certainly has issues. 😮
Also, thank you … I looked up virtue signaling as I didn’t know what it meant. I’m aware of it now 🙏. Thanks for watching.