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Thanks. Multiple different options for that. You can do either a custom folded sheet to wrap or finish. And/or detail a receiver style flashing to slip the sheet into and ad a c channel to box it off. We are supplying videos on these details in the coming months.

Thank you Jenny. Glad to help

Thanks 🙏. If you use a breathable sarking and give a thermal break, maybe like a 20mm batten over the sarking…. This way allowing the condensation to drip…. The ply however may stop your walls from breathing proper

Hi, sorry you have had that experience

Not really sure what you mean. If you’re talking about spacings then maybe. 150 half round should be installed at maximum 1200mm spacings, I recommend 1000mm . If you’re talking about the height falls, unless you know that the previously installed was still good, I would go about a complete re install and mark out. Sorry on my late response. You could use a clear water line to ensure the heights have fall. This can be the most accurate method of all.

The frame of the box gutter framing was 100% plyed with 19mm and had 2 coats of waterproofing. Never I. My career have I ever wrapped a box gutter with proctor wrap or the sought. We have on numerous occasions played 60mm anticon between the BG and the support.

Cheers! Glad you're enjoying it!

Any steel roll former. Lysaght, Stratco’s, Stramit, metroll , apex building, rollsec, Steeline…. You should have at least one of these near you. Ask for 20mm ceiling battens

This back when it was done (pre covid) was around the $25k mark. I would expect no change now from $30k

There is a combination between knowledge and arrogance. Roofing companies don’t want to miss the sale and will say whatever they need to say to get it what the arrogant Builder doesn’t do is ensure that their customer, the one with the dream that chose this beautiful cladding, Get what they asked for. With the price variance of up to 30% difference between the installation, you see all over social media and the house that makes it onto my little house of horror series. My recommendation to all customers is if your builder is a project home builder, then you as the customer homeowner need to find the person/company that can deliver and add that into the contract with their price do not trust the project home builder when it comes to Colorbond cladding. And the same is to be said about roofing companies that predominantly Work on project homes

@@ConstructingArt The fault absolutely lies on both sides.. I mainly do commercial work and refuse to take on cladding (architectural) if its part of the tender. From past experience, even after doing my best with packing and making plum..nothing is going to save me from walls and windows running out of vertical. And when it comes to the packing and making frames good, the builder is rarely interested in variations so i pay out of my own pocket.the current crop of pm's have had some bad mentors and seem to think its like the 'good old days' when you could slap on some custom orb and call it a day.. Love your work though, just a shame i only have the chance to indulge when i am working on my own home!

@@frankryan2505 your 100% on point. I dont blame you for refusing the cladding... as it is very hard to run and supervise and acheive a top result.

We might be related, I’m a Cameron! You should not have any issues using sharp line from Stramit va enseam. Unless you’re going to wider profile 465 and then I would suggest using the.Enseam .7 gauge that is not available from Stramit That is correct on that. You will never walk alone. I’m very passionate about mental health and supporting people and these shirts don’t just put a smile on my face when I slip them on they let people know around me. I’m here to talk if you need!

Thank you so much for your comment. 100% agree with you. I have decided to do an educational video explaining and describing building terms related to wall cladding and roofing. Please 🙏 be patient and thank you again

@@ConstructingArt Terrific, thanks. i look forward to seeing it.

Apologies for not getting this video done. I have been busy in and not on the business. I will still do this.

No, there are many ways. We have foam infill under the laps.

Head to Facebook search Mycladders send us a message through there and we will get some shots through. It’s a great profile… I have on my own house also

Hi Sam, loved the comment. So as I researched the are for other reasons… found a corroding screw joining the fascia and head cap. As that contaminated water then ran over the hot cut Colorbond (a/g). I think that it maybe a combination of your thoughts as well. Thanks again for your comment.

That’s correct.

Not quite sure what you are referring to. Thanks for sharing your opinion. Happy to receive a full description if your wanting to share. You can contact us on +61931773366 Looking forward to your call 🙏

Hi Percy, thanks for the feedback. Honestly I agree with you 100%. We are trying to create better content and this we will take into account when doing so. If there is anything particular in this video I can help with . Let me know

Yes it is!, it is basalt matt… it does take a higher level of care when handling as the touch up method is more difficult. That being said, I have had many roofers comment on how much extra work is involved and so they don’t want to use it. Personally I don’t find any difference as we handle it all the same, also I recommend it to every client! And never had a scratch or mark issue.

@@ConstructingArt Thanks for replying, really appreciated. We are so on the fence! In your experience, does it only get marked during the installation? We live rural and are worried that the dust might stuck to it and make it look marked or dirty easily. What do you think? We want to avoid oil canning, so we are leaning towards the matt but are worried it will look dirty or will mark. Tricky decision!!

@@CatherineMarionArtthe Matt finish may catch the dust a tad more though it will be much less noticeable than standard colours… as dust is also Matt. 😅. Being on the fence can be solved by which one would you regret… doing Matt or not doing it… I see it like - do I put real timber floors in or laminated timber floors? One is a compromise. Unless you’re happy with laminated… horses for courses

Thanks Percy, jobs like this keep me getting up in the morning!

I am not sure, however, white vinegar… Not white cleaning vinegar, is recommended by Colorbond.

Should be a 2-5 mm gap. Everyone was waiting for you to make the comment… there is actually plenty of other things to. 🤣

Mansard cap 🧢

Hit me up on Instagram kennymyersofficial

Thanks for the constructive feedback :) We will take it on board and work on being a better educator. Really appreciate it, dont give up on us yet :)

That sucks. There are a lot of desperate roofing companies that use incompetent labour contractors!

✌

Good luck

Australia and the world! I will send to whomever wins!

Completely understand that. It’s sad that it turned out this way…. Our customers don’t get this result. It looks very like a shed / container conversion… it has been stuffed up royally

@@ConstructingArt yeah cladding of all sorts seems to be a problem in Many builds. I’m from Victoria and follow the You know who of inspectors.

@@janegarnhamyep Big Z, absolute legend!

Thank you so much for your feedback. Will certainly take it on board. Don’t normally do these videos and I’m learning quickly.

You can if you want, however the wall will start to sag over time. I highly recommend that you use shorter screws in the pans of the sheets for either vertical or horizontal. Better for leak protection also. Great question

Nice pick up!

$500,000 build plus land.

Love the feedback. The shirt is Trademutt, he’s (I) won’t be taking them off … appreciate the advice though 👍. Do you think ruclips.net/video/z1KSD1AIdI4/видео.htmlsi=0IL5bZS5yRUoYUhD job in trimdeck also looks bad or can I change your opinion 🙏🙏🙏. It certainly has issues. 😮

Also, thank you … I looked up virtue signaling as I didn’t know what it meant. I’m aware of it now 🙏. Thanks for watching.

Great question, and it’s simple and complex at the same time. Basically, if you have a timber frame and metal cladding you must seperate the Colorbond cladding from the timber frame that is sarked. This can be on any thickness of batten that meets the calculated volume required to pass through (profile, length, width). I’m really just a dumb roofer that looks for the best simple answers for each process. If you follow the installation guides from the supplier and install onto either 20mm or 40mm battens… these acheive the gap every time. If you install permeable sarking (like proctor wrap) you add the ability for your inner wall breathing out into the gap. Lastly, regarding the condensation on the sheets… you could also add another layer of sarking over the battens. This would keep the condensation off the inner wall sarking. that being said however, I have never done that process as I think it would only really benefit very cold climates (and it is not documented anywhere, just my opinion)

@@ConstructingArt thanks for answering, I’ve got old house with rotted gables that I want to colorbond, so I’ll go wrap, 20mm batten then sheeting. I suspect doing it without batten would risk condensation issues, yet I’ve seen a company advertising they slap colorbond right ontop of weatherboards no gap. Anyway been watching your channel for a while your work is top quality.

@@Trolleycollectorthanks mate. There are many different ways to install. Straight onto of the boards would lead to a lot of twisting.. you could batten (40mm preferred) over the boards, adding bracing and firming up the wall. Then put the sheeting straight onto battens. However your best bet is to remove, sark, batten and sheet/flash. Yell out if you get stuck.

There was not any specific finishing details, there was images that were supplied by the owner as reference. The roofing/cladding company installed without any plans. And the clients were not consulted. Video 2 next week comes out next Wednesday and has more info… actually much more.

@@ConstructingArt Jeez - that is obviously a risky endeavor proceeding with no drawings! , but this does not excuse the rough/carless job.

@@KingPostTimberWorks I agree completely. If the Cladder (tradesman) doesn’t have a track record you can trust, then that is also very risky.. that said. We all have to start somewhere!

Hi Mate, The Manufacturer of the bracket supplies a maximum width spacing that governs this. Then I work out a average width to make it look neat.