EXPOSED! 🫣 Removing artwork & vinyl PLUS the return of Tedy! 🐶 Primal Rage arcade restoration part 3
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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It was literally like that scene in "A Christmas Story" where the neighbor's dogs ate the turkey... 🐕🐕🐕
Episode #95
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Tools & parts used in this video (contains affiliate links)...
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Theme Music Credit: "Synthwave 80s" by AlexiAction (used with permission under the Pixabay License) pixabay.com/mu...
Additional Music Credit: "Ditch Diggin'" by Jingle Punks (used with permission under the RUclips Audio Library License) • Ditch Diggin'
#arcades #restoration #arcaderestoration #retrogaming #arcadegames #arcadecabinet #classicgaming #mancave #atari #primalrage
Hey man, love your channel. As a guitar repair tech using heat like an iron or heat gun to the inside of the wings of the cabinet and putting a long thin putty knife in between the particle board will separate the 2 pieces. Do it slow and always apply heat to either the wing or use the heat gun to heat the knife itself and it will separate. If it’s epoxy you’ll notice right away because heat won’t do much. Good luck.
Thanks! I did consider that option, but ultimately decided just to cut the old t-molding and not replace the parts wedged between the wings and the side panel. I think it’ll come out looking ok and doesn’t risk any damage.
Hi Charlie!
I meant to ask this a couple of weeks ago, but a shiny object crossed my field of vision, and I got distracted…
You’re working on restoring a Q*Bert cabinet, and one of the things you are repairing, is the coin door opening (as I recall, the top of the opening was a bit chewed up).
In doing the repair, you created a metal bracket to hold/mould a large amount of fiberglass Bondo material, to fill in the gap to replace, and eventually reshape the coin door opening.
My question (and I’m not saying/implying that your solution was incorrect… Just asking about your process), is why did you not cut out the damaged area, and create a ‘plug’ of sorts from plywood, and use less filler material to hold the repair in place? (I believe you used this method to repair smaller round holes, with dowel plugs, and wood filler).
I’m pretty sure that ths cabinet will be revisited sometime soon (and forgive me if it was, and I missed it), and I was wondering how that particular repair worked out, just in case that same shiny object crosses your path…
Hey, Dave -- great question! There's always multiple ways to skin a cat... I thought about cutting out the damaged area and building a new piece of wood to fit the opening, but I was worried about routing it to match the curve properly, and there wasn't a good way to mount the new wood from above based on how the cabinet was designed, so I would have had to reinforce it with a metal bracket anyways. So what I did seemed like the fastest & easiest method to get an acceptable outcome -- but we'll see how it turns out!
Babe wake up, overtime arcade uploaded a video! It's gonna be a good evening
It's appointment viewing!
If it was me, i would fill the gap between the ears and the cabinet to make them look like part of the cab and run the t-molding all the way around. But I know you're a purist. Good luck. Looking forward to the next installment.
I’ve thought about that, but the side art comes in two pieces including a smaller part for the ears, so that would emphasize rather than hide the seam.
This is better than Saturday morning CARTOONS!!!! 💪
What kind of sugary cereal are you enjoying while watching? IT'S PART OF A BALANCED BREAKFAST!
@@overtimearcade Galaga PCB clean & repair 🤣
You pour milk over that??
@@overtimearcade looks like someone did 🤔
THAT AIN’T RIGHT!
make sure to shellac all the bare wood before applying the artwork...the DEL way.
I’m doing it the WWJKD way - Jeff Kinder applies the vinyl wrap directly to the raw particleboard before installing the side art on top. Also, I texted Del this morning, and he said he’s “never shellacked any game before.” 😅