Right Heros. There are two types of Audi A3 rear hub: One has a 30mm inner diameter of the bearing, one has 32mm. my 2007 has a 30mm diameter. but you have to get the correct one!
Why 155nm? Where did you get those numbers from? I and all garages that I had to deal with torqued it up to 180nm plus 180 degree turn. 3/4" or 1" 40 inch long breaker bars were used for this.
I would not trust these figures, they omit a lot of crucial steps and also some torque figures are flat out wrong. This is not dealership workshop standard. I've watched video for rear bearing, suspension and spring replacement from autodoc on a3 8p and things are wrong. Rear wheel bearing should be pre-tightened to 180nm for steel wheel bearing housing and 200nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing, then the car should be put on wheels then bolt angle-tighten 180° and new bolt as well extremely important! And for suspension lower bolt it should be 180nm IN unladen position otherwise bushing will be destroyed in 1-2 years. For suspension upper bolt 50nm + 45° they forgot angle-tighten and always replace bolts important. For inner bolt lower transverse link 90nm + 90° in unladen position and always replace nut. Some bolts and nuts should always be renewed unless you want an accident, the metal in the bolts when angle-tighten means that the metal is no longer stressed in the elasticity range where it is not deformed, but is stressed to the point of plasticity where the bolt is permanently deformed and could risk breaking on subsequent angle-tighten and without angle-tighten it will not meet the required clamping force. All torque values are for clean bolts no oil and no copper paste. With copper paste or oil you risk overstressed the bolts when tighten with Nm tigthening because the stretch will be increased using same torque values. The videos they upload have steps and information simplified to a point that I would not trust the outcome. It does not seem that autodoc employs authorized mechanics for each brand but more generalized automotive mechanics. Especially omitting crucial information on wheel bearing and bonded rubber bushing requiring final tightening in unladen position means more money to autodoc because people will replace the parts more often! Unladen position means that the wheel hub should be put in the same position as when the car is on the ground with no additional weight, measure distance from center of hub to upper wheel arch beforehand. This is not necessarily written to you specifically but to give others a more general idea of what should really be done to do things correctly. @autodoc any response from you guys? As you might imagine I am not impressed with the details of your videos!
@@joshsmith159 Don't want to mislead you but I think it have to do something with "reusing" the same bolt/screw thread. When first assembled in factory think it's just right torque required but once bolts are undone, torque plus additional angle is required as previously inner or outer thread has already "experienced" the same "stress" which weakens it and same torque would be not sufficient to hold new fastener in place... I might be completely wrong here so don't take my word for it but if you look into proper repair manuals you'll always find torque settings and plus additional degree turns (where applicable). And yes, most of the time it feels just utterly scary when you do those 180 or so without effort and then have to swing or bounce on 2 to 4 foot long breaker bar that won't budge any further :)
Thank you for your comment. It all depends on the brake system, in our case the disc rests on the bracket and does not allow it to come out, so we removed it. Best Regards, Autodoc team
@@autodocuk John is correct here, I have an Audi tts 2011 with 310mm brake discs and they come right off. In your case is that you are bloody butchers.
no dont remove the caliper bracket. Just remove the 13mm bolts holding the sliders on, rotate the whole piston assembly away, remove the outside brake pad. The disk comes away with a wriggle.
What an absolute pain in the butt that design. Many cars have 12 point 32mm nut on rear wheel bearings, which is great. Torx, allen and XZN heads should banned in cars in high torque applications, those only strip out when trying to undo on older vehicle. Hex heads at least give you a fighting chance and sockets for stripped heads often save you if all else fails
yo i recently installed a new rear wheel bearing A3 8p1 2.0 tdi BKD the new bearing has play in up and down motion is it the hub ? is that normal or should I be worried i torque it to160 165NM just to be sure
Mate even 160 doesn't sound right. Not sure where did they get 155nm from cos Haynes manual and Audi garage say it should be 180nm+180 degree turn on rear hubs... Loads of torque when you think about it but yeah, that's how it should be done.
@@TomaxSin 200nm and180for the m18 bolt its the 32mm shaft bearing this one is prob 30mm that's why but still they need to fix this case they can get sued for misinformation.
Thank you for your comment! We are glad to know that you follow our channel. Stay tuned with us for more new tutorials and in case if you have any questions regarding the spare parts, our Customer Support team will be happy to assist you. Best Regards, Autodoc team
I recently changed the rear wheel bearing and it still had the humming noise, i then changed the toe to out on one side and it stopped humming but the car was unstable so i had to return the toe to its original position. i took it in for wheel alignment, toe and camber adjustment and the humming is still there. Any advices?
They forgot to say that you need a car lift, as you cant get sufficient leverage to remove the caliper bolts, if the car is only on axle stands, unless you're built like Geoff Capes (RIP)
The rear "spline" bolt is fixed position in front wheel drive, the hub does not need to be fixed. Spline bolt on a driven axle is a different story you need to loosen bolt car on ground which is not a problem if you are replacing the bearing afterwards because the bearing will be immediately damaged in some grade, or have a friend pressing the brake pedal when wheel bearing is not loaded then the bearing will be saved in that case.
If I understand you correctly, the way I cracked the centre hub bolt was with the wheels on. Firstly remove the dust cover for the centre hub, put the wheel back on and onto the ground. Use the weight of the car to lock it. I used a breaker bar and some steel pipe for extra leverage to undo the bolt. I believe you could skip this if you have a good impact gun. I don't. Good luck man.
Right Heros. There are two types of Audi A3 rear hub: One has a 30mm inner diameter of the bearing, one has 32mm. my 2007 has a 30mm diameter. but you have to get the correct one!
One question , is it the same process with the front end or for that i need a press? ( it is 2.0 tfsi quattro 8pa)
Excellent video, you chaps make it look very easy.
We are glad that you enjoy our work!
Great video - only improvement would be to tell us torque's for various bolts - thanks!
Why 155nm? Where did you get those numbers from? I and all garages that I had to deal with torqued it up to 180nm plus 180 degree turn. 3/4" or 1" 40 inch long breaker bars were used for this.
I would not trust these figures, they omit a lot of crucial steps and also some torque figures are flat out wrong. This is not dealership workshop standard. I've watched video for rear bearing, suspension and spring replacement from autodoc on a3 8p and things are wrong. Rear wheel bearing should be pre-tightened to 180nm for steel wheel bearing housing and 200nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing, then the car should be put on wheels then bolt angle-tighten 180° and new bolt as well extremely important! And for suspension lower bolt it should be 180nm IN unladen position otherwise bushing will be destroyed in 1-2 years. For suspension upper bolt 50nm + 45° they forgot angle-tighten and always replace bolts important. For inner bolt lower transverse link 90nm + 90° in unladen position and always replace nut. Some bolts and nuts should always be renewed unless you want an accident, the metal in the bolts when angle-tighten means that the metal is no longer stressed in the elasticity range where it is not deformed, but is stressed to the point of plasticity where the bolt is permanently deformed and could risk breaking on subsequent angle-tighten and without angle-tighten it will not meet the required clamping force. All torque values are for clean bolts no oil and no copper paste. With copper paste or oil you risk overstressed the bolts when tighten with Nm tigthening because the stretch will be increased using same torque values. The videos they upload have steps and information simplified to a point that I would not trust the outcome. It does not seem that autodoc employs authorized mechanics for each brand but more generalized automotive mechanics. Especially omitting crucial information on wheel bearing and bonded rubber bushing requiring final tightening in unladen position means more money to autodoc because people will replace the parts more often! Unladen position means that the wheel hub should be put in the same position as when the car is on the ground with no additional weight, measure distance from center of hub to upper wheel arch beforehand. This is not necessarily written to you specifically but to give others a more general idea of what should really be done to do things correctly. @autodoc any response from you guys? As you might imagine I am not impressed with the details of your videos!
What’s the purpose of the extra 180 turn? Would the right torque figure not just do the job?
@@joshsmith159 Don't want to mislead you but I think it have to do something with "reusing" the same bolt/screw thread. When first assembled in factory think it's just right torque required but once bolts are undone, torque plus additional angle is required as previously inner or outer thread has already "experienced" the same "stress" which weakens it and same torque would be not sufficient to hold new fastener in place... I might be completely wrong here so don't take my word for it but if you look into proper repair manuals you'll always find torque settings and plus additional degree turns (where applicable). And yes, most of the time it feels just utterly scary when you do those 180 or so without effort and then have to swing or bounce on 2 to 4 foot long breaker bar that won't budge any further :)
Is there a reason you remove the caliper bracket?
The rear brake discs can be removed without taking it off on my 2010 A3.
Thank you for your comment.
It all depends on the brake system, in our case the disc rests on the bracket and does not allow it to come out, so we removed it.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
@@autodocuk John is correct here, I have an Audi tts 2011 with 310mm brake discs and they come right off. In your case is that you are bloody butchers.
no dont remove the caliper bracket. Just remove the 13mm bolts holding the sliders on, rotate the whole piston assembly away, remove the outside brake pad. The disk comes away with a wriggle.
I've snapped 3 bits undoing the bearing bolt.. any tips on how to remove any better?
What an absolute pain in the butt that design. Many cars have 12 point 32mm nut on rear wheel bearings, which is great. Torx, allen and XZN heads should banned in cars in high torque applications, those only strip out when trying to undo on older vehicle. Hex heads at least give you a fighting chance and sockets for stripped heads often save you if all else fails
yo i recently installed a new rear wheel bearing A3 8p1 2.0 tdi BKD the new bearing has play in up and down motion is it the hub ? is that normal or should I be worried i torque it to160 165NM just to be sure
Mate even 160 doesn't sound right. Not sure where did they get 155nm from cos Haynes manual and Audi garage say it should be 180nm+180 degree turn on rear hubs... Loads of torque when you think about it but yeah, that's how it should be done.
@@TomaxSin 200nm and180for the m18 bolt its the 32mm shaft bearing this one is prob 30mm that's why but still they need to fix this case they can get sued for misinformation.
Thank you for your comment!
The description is difficult to understand, we recommend contacting an auto mechanic.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
@@autodocuk social media representatives in comment section and not mechanics to answer question because it's cheaper but not safe 😂
Just bought from you guys rear wheel bearings for my Audi A3 8p. Thank you for the tutorial!
Thank you for your comment!
We are glad to know that you follow our channel.
Stay tuned with us for more new tutorials and in case if you have any questions regarding the spare parts, our Customer Support team will be happy to assist you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Hi. Can I please get the exact size of the spline bit socket. When I search up xzn 16 I get m6, m8, m10, m12 5/16"
Is it m16
@@alyasbungo no absolutely incorrect. The centre bolt is XZN M18.
Clarification: There are two types of hub bolt too. The 32mm I was sent was an XZN M18, the original 30mm id hub had a XZN M16
Try a rear wheel bearing change on a Quattro. Massive PITA getting the XZN M12 bolts out.
can be. And any boot on any car. You just never know. We love those battles don’t we!?
Music is way too loud it spoils the whole video
I recently changed the rear wheel bearing and it still had the humming noise, i then changed the toe to out on one side and it stopped humming but the car was unstable so i had to return the toe to its original position. i took it in for wheel alignment, toe and camber adjustment and the humming is still there. Any advices?
Unfortunately, it is difficult to say something without proper diagnostics.
We advise you to contact the service for a complete diagnosis.
AUTODOC
They forgot to say that you need a car lift, as you cant get sufficient leverage to remove the caliper bolts, if the car is only on axle stands, unless you're built like Geoff Capes (RIP)
What is labour on a bearing?
Please clarify or rephrase your question.
Autodoc team
Didn't need to remove the caliper bracket on my 2005 8pa Audi a3 2.0tdi..
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
AUTODOC
Good 👍👍👍
Thank you for your comment!
Stay tuned for more upcoming videos!
Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
How did you lock the hub when you cracked the spline bolt going thru the middle?
Thank you for your comment!
Please could you clarify or rephrase your question and we will be able to help you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
The rear "spline" bolt is fixed position in front wheel drive, the hub does not need to be fixed. Spline bolt on a driven axle is a different story you need to loosen bolt car on ground which is not a problem if you are replacing the bearing afterwards because the bearing will be immediately damaged in some grade, or have a friend pressing the brake pedal when wheel bearing is not loaded then the bearing will be saved in that case.
30mm or 32mm??
Please contact us back and clarify your question.
AUTODOC
You missed telling people how to lock the rear hub when cracking the bolt to undo it
Thank you for your feedback.
We will definitely take this into account in our new videos.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
autodoc.co.uk thanks, if you can tell me how to lock it I will purchase the bearings from you
If I understand you correctly, the way I cracked the centre hub bolt was with the wheels on. Firstly remove the dust cover for the centre hub, put the wheel back on and onto the ground. Use the weight of the car to lock it. I used a breaker bar and some steel pipe for extra leverage to undo the bolt. I believe you could skip this if you have a good impact gun. I don't. Good luck man.
Eivind L thanks mate, I didn’t think of that!
@@ChessWatchesGeo don't use impact on these it will risk damage the internal threads.
Your mechanic is terrible. No TQ figures, removing none existing rust, using wd40 on parts where it won't do anything.
Its just a specific video showing us the main steps...