I just installed this unit in my basement. I send wood down my belco door. Been burning this for about 3 weeks now and am really impressed with it. I upgraded from the famous Empyre wood boiler mess.
Those empires were a big problem. I started burning this year on October 28 and just passed 2/3 of 1 cord burned heating 3000 sqft 226 year old house. Something that we are starting to see is that people don’t realize they should adjust their settings which are in the manual based off of the average wood moisture content. The controller comes factory pre set for wet wood.
Just curious to see an indoor setup. I recently purchased a g4000 and have done a ton of research on it but can't seem to find any videos on hooking up to an indoor boiler. The only info I've found is from alternative heating but that's just diagrams. I have a new peerless oil boiler with tankless hot water. Alternative makes it sound easy but I know that's not the case. Lol
We might get a g4000 soon- thanks for showing us your nice setup. I was wondering how many cord of wood (seasoned hardwood?) you are burning and how many square foot you are heating it with. We only have seasoned spruce to burn and I hope that I won't have to load it too often?
I go through about 7 cords. Last year was a long season and this season the weather didn’t turn cold until mid November so we will be burning about 6 cords. I am heating 3000 sqft in New Hampshire and the home is 227 years old but insulated decently well. With soft wood you can expect to burn about 30 percent or more vs hardwood. Sizing the boiler so that you can get 12 hour burn times on the colder days of the season with whatever fuel type you are using is important. How many sqft are you heating, what is your location and how much fuel per season are you using now?
@@jonathansinclair6963 Hello Jonathan and thanks for your information and reply! We are in Nova Scotia (probably similar to NH?). It would be a new home decently insulated- 1500 sqft but with 15' walls and cathedral ceiling and infloor heating. Also a 1500 sqft wood working shop but I would be happy to just keep it at 55F. Also a 200 sqft tack room in the barn but I would be happy to have it set at 50F so just to keep it from freezing. I agree with you- I don't mind loading it twice a day but 3 times would be kind of annoying I think.
I was wondering how you like your furnace after 6 months, as I am planning to get this model? Also, I see that you changed the locations where the piping enters the bottom of the unit due to a misalignment with your pad. Isn’t that grill area you used supposed to be the cabinet fresh air inlet that feeds the openings in the dampers? If so, looks like you reduced airflow into your furnace by over 50%. My curiosity is peaked!
right where U quickly moved the camera out of view. I couldn’t tell if that is 2 pieces out together or it that is a crack there. I can screen shot so u can tell what I’m asking about but can’t post pictures here. Was a question not a statement. I’ll add a question mark for ya so it’s not confusing. Punctuation makes a big difference. My apologies
The logstor insulated pipe is cemented right into the pad. You would have to use a 6 inch pvc sleeve to slip any type of non “do over pipe” which is either rhinoflex, thermopex, rehau or logstor. Don’t buy any of the drain tile stuff. That’s cAlled do over pipe because of the high failure rate where ground water gets in.
I'm not real familiar with Heat Master, but one of the big draws for me is that it is UL listed for installation inside, any thoughts about that? I'm looking to buy my first boiler and it just seems like it would be more user friendly to have it out of the weather. I'm thinking a stand alone building or building a lean to off the rear of my garage.
If you have the room to dedicate indoors to the boiler it would be a great option. A great feature about the boiler is the two piece roof section in the event that you ever need to remove the roof section of the boiler you can do that without disassembly of the flue. Placing the boiler under a lean to is another nice option to be out of the weather. I would encourage you to take a look in person at your closest dealer to appreciate the construction of the boiler.
And how long did you run your g200 and how come you quit running it. I'm just asking because currently I am running a mf5000e and am just at capacity and wanting to upgrade to a g7000 but hear so much negative on this style
What is the thought behind the blown insulation now? I bought an MF10,000 8 years ago and the rational then was it doesn't allow condensation out. Which I why central boilers rust out. That's the sales pitch I was given. Bat insulation was much better per Heatmaster rep. It seems like a 180 and inconsistent marketing or just talk to make a sale. I am not knocking Heatmaster, they make a great product and I've been very satisfied.
I have heard of the failures of another company who also uses closed cell spray foam on the water jacket. Although I do believe that fiberglass has the ability to dry if it gets wet for some reason that it shouldn’t be an issue here if the boiler is prepped correctly and Heatmaster uses 409ss water jacket as well which another company still uses mild steel water jackets. I believe the push behind this latest move was to push the boiler line to the top of the class for efficiency ratings from the EPA which was successful. There is a lot of idle time during the lower output tests and if the water jacket is losing more heat vs spray foam then the overall efficiency will suffer. Time will tell but Heatmaster makes an excellent product and stands behind their product line 100 percent.
I just installed this unit in my basement. I send wood down my belco door. Been burning this for about 3 weeks now and am really impressed with it. I upgraded from the famous Empyre wood boiler mess.
Those empires were a big problem. I started burning this year on October 28 and just passed 2/3 of 1 cord burned heating 3000 sqft 226 year old house. Something that we are starting to see is that people don’t realize they should adjust their settings which are in the manual based off of the average wood moisture content. The controller comes factory pre set for wet wood.
Just curious to see an indoor setup. I recently purchased a g4000 and have done a ton of research on it but can't seem to find any videos on hooking up to an indoor boiler. The only info I've found is from alternative heating but that's just diagrams. I have a new peerless oil boiler with tankless hot water. Alternative makes it sound easy but I know that's not the case. Lol
Great in-depth look!
We might get a g4000 soon- thanks for showing us your nice setup. I was wondering how many cord of wood (seasoned hardwood?) you are burning and how many square foot you are heating it with. We only have seasoned spruce to burn and I hope that I won't have to load it too often?
I go through about 7 cords. Last year was a long season and this season the weather didn’t turn cold until mid November so we will be burning about 6 cords. I am heating 3000 sqft in New Hampshire and the home is 227 years old but insulated decently well. With soft wood you can expect to burn about 30 percent or more vs hardwood. Sizing the boiler so that you can get 12 hour burn times on the colder days of the season with whatever fuel type you are using is important. How many sqft are you heating, what is your location and how much fuel per season are you using now?
@@jonathansinclair6963 Hello Jonathan and thanks for your information and reply! We are in Nova Scotia (probably similar to NH?). It would be a new home decently insulated- 1500 sqft but with 15' walls and cathedral ceiling and infloor heating. Also a 1500 sqft wood working shop but I would be happy to just keep it at 55F. Also a 200 sqft tack room in the barn but I would be happy to have it set at 50F so just to keep it from freezing. I agree with you- I don't mind loading it twice a day but 3 times would be kind of annoying I think.
I was wondering how you like your furnace after 6 months, as I am planning to get this model? Also, I see that you changed the locations where the piping enters the bottom of the unit due to a misalignment with your pad. Isn’t that grill area you used supposed to be the cabinet fresh air inlet that feeds the openings in the dampers? If so, looks like you reduced airflow into your furnace by over 50%. My curiosity is peaked!
The boiler was excellent last season, I burned 7 cords for the winter. It is very easy to run, no smoke and super efficient.
Got a big crack in the refractory already???
What?
right where U quickly moved the camera out of view. I couldn’t tell if that is 2 pieces out together or it that is a crack there. I can screen shot so u can tell what I’m asking about but can’t post pictures here. Was a question not a statement. I’ll add a question mark for ya so it’s not confusing. Punctuation makes a big difference. My apologies
What is the size of the PVC pipe you used through the concrete pad? I'm going to be installing a G200 and want to do the same thing. Thanks!
The logstor insulated pipe is cemented right into the pad. You would have to use a 6 inch pvc sleeve to slip any type of non “do over pipe” which is either rhinoflex, thermopex, rehau or logstor. Don’t buy any of the drain tile stuff. That’s cAlled do over pipe because of the high failure rate where ground water gets in.
So I assume you are running this unit now. What is the update how it it working for you.
I'm not real familiar with Heat Master, but one of the big draws for me is that it is UL listed for installation inside, any thoughts about that? I'm looking to buy my first boiler and it just seems like it would be more user friendly to have it out of the weather. I'm thinking a stand alone building or building a lean to off the rear of my garage.
If you have the room to dedicate indoors to the boiler it would be a great option. A great feature about the boiler is the two piece roof section in the event that you ever need to remove the roof section of the boiler you can do that without disassembly of the flue. Placing the boiler under a lean to is another nice option to be out of the weather. I would encourage you to take a look in person at your closest dealer to appreciate the construction of the boiler.
And how long did you run your g200 and how come you quit running it. I'm just asking because currently I am running a mf5000e and am just at capacity and wanting to upgrade to a g7000 but hear so much negative on this style
What is the thought behind the blown insulation now? I bought an MF10,000 8 years ago and the rational then was it doesn't allow condensation out. Which I why central boilers rust out. That's the sales pitch I was given. Bat insulation was much better per Heatmaster rep. It seems like a 180 and inconsistent marketing or just talk to make a sale. I am not knocking Heatmaster, they make a great product and I've been very satisfied.
I have heard of the failures of another company who also uses closed cell spray foam on the water jacket. Although I do believe that fiberglass has the ability to dry if it gets wet for some reason that it shouldn’t be an issue here if the boiler is prepped correctly and Heatmaster uses 409ss water jacket as well which another company still uses mild steel water jackets. I believe the push behind this latest move was to push the boiler line to the top of the class for efficiency ratings from the EPA which was successful. There is a lot of idle time during the lower output tests and if the water jacket is losing more heat vs spray foam then the overall efficiency will suffer. Time will tell but Heatmaster makes an excellent product and stands behind their product line 100 percent.