Fantastic blow by blow instructions. Best tutorials on You tube in my opinion. It might be worth mentioning that while the lower intake is out of the way that it's a really good opportunity to replace the valve cover gaskets. It will save you a ton of aggravation in the long run. Another $15 well spent I really enjoy all of your videos. Very well executed sir. Thanks for spending your time making them, its a great confidence booster for us DIY'ers with aging vehicles. Tim
@boell4grumpa - Tim, I am both humbled and grateful for your kind words, thank you. Your are 100% correct on the valve cover gaskets. This van was an 06 and that hasn't been a real issue for those later years so I totally forgot to mention the valve cover gaskets which is a BIG issue on the earlier years of the 4th Gen vans. Good catch and great advice!!! When you're this far down that job is a breeze and the additional gasket expense for the valve covers is a "no brainer". Thank you for taking the time to leave me such a great compliment and great advice for future viewers. My goal here is to help people and you did just that!
@@javosgarage Maybe you could do a video using just the forward valve cover as an example, those cover bolts with the individual gasket rings look a bit tricky.
@@paulmcallister807 - Very true, especially on the backside of the motor. I am still looking for my next project van so I can complete this "series" of videos on these vans. There will probably be about another 15-20 videos to complete the set.
Absolutely the best step by step how to video on this procedure hands down. You should get an Oscar. A medal maybe even a Gold Star next to your name. Well done. Thank you from Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada
@Gerry Jamieson - Wow! I'm speechless, thank you so very much for the HUGE compliment! I do try to provide the "details" to help make the job go easier. It's great to know you found my video to be helpful. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
2005 Dodge GC SXT 3.8L ... Yea ,, still got a 2005 year vehicle ,, 😅 . Have hauled multiple nieces and nephews ,, drywall sheets ,, construction debris ,, and even my 1996 CBR 699F3 ( that I still got ) in this Sto 'n Go model . Close to 190,000 miles . I thank God for the reliability I've gotten from this vehicle . Time to show it some MORE TLC with repairs you've made ,, AND HELPFULLY !!!! ,, video'd . Thanks , Javo !!!
@want2no2 - Well thank you very much for the great compliment. It always puts huge smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been beneficial to someone. I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Amazing. Someone on you tube who actually does things correctly. I also follow my factory shop manual. One more thing I'd do on one with this age and mileage is replace all coolant hoses and thermostat. I do that at 100K as part of tune up. Much cheaper and easier to do that in the shop instead of on the side of the interstate.
I just did this on my 07 Caravan. Your videos helped me through the whole process. I couldn't disconnect the wiring harness to the fuel injectors. It was seized badly and the plastic clips broke off. Had to leave it connected as I took out the manifold, with the fuel rail attached and flipped it upside down onto a piece of cardboard, balancing it on a 90 degree on the air filter housing and wiper fluid container. It took longer to clean everything but it all worked and no leaks after one week. Thanks Javo!
Hey, I had the same exact problem!!! Took me a half day to remove it, a lot of prayer taking place! But finally came off. Boy, I sure hope the rest of the job is not as bad!
I have watched every video on this subject on RUclips, or at least it feels that way. LOL Yours is by FAR the best. This is the one that I came back to when I was actually DOING the job. Subscribed.
@Frank - Well thank you very much for the great compliment Frank! It always puts a huge smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been helpful to someone. Hopefully everything went well for you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - thank you.
I can’t thank you enough for these “classes”! I just did this (as well as the oil pan) on my 2007 Grand Caravan. The job came out as perfect as your instructions! (Which are PERFECT!!!).
You are very welcome. That is AWESOME, what a savings! Always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been so helpful to someone. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback. Thank you.
@Barry Wright - Hey Berry, thank you very much for the compliment(s)! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Javo you did a fantastic job here on this video one of my friends dog he has a 3.3 and his leaking oil all over the motor I think the main culprit is the intake manifold like what you did here I'll have to tell him to watch your video and I will help him do the job but thank you for the fantastic job that you did on this two-part series thank you .
@Deadbuck73 - Thank you! I hope you found the information helpful to you on your project. I always appreciate someone taking a moment to provide me some feedback. Thanks for stopping by!
I’m just going to let it go to the scrap yard... I found more problems after completing this project and it’s just not worth the time and money involved to keep milking it along... the rust is only growing too... it’s better this way :( I’ll miss the old van.... it was a work horse...
@Mike Selsvik - You could certainly do that, it's really a matter of preference. It seems to work better for me to work my way "up". Thanks for stopping by!
@Base Bowman - Thank you. I just HAVE to have a clean, organized work space or it drives me crazy! Nothing is more irritating or time consuming than having to spend 20 minutes looking for a tool or part. That's just me though. Thanks for the comment!
you pointed upward to where you said a link in descriptions would be ... i never found them ... i did however go to videos to find your other videos particularly removing the cowl and wiper motor ... i really like your videos ..your style is like the 50's kid on BMW videos that help me on my sons car .. i have a caravan
@1albertberman - Thank you for letting me know! I added the links during the video but forgot to add the links in the description. That problem is now solved and the links are in the description. Thank you for stopping by, the compliment and letting me know about the links - much appreciated!
All you need was to replace the valve cover gaskets and you'd pretty much seal the deal. Even changing out the head gaskets isn't so bad on those engines.
Hi Javo, I've used ur videos for my 2007 Dodge Caravan for a lot of things. I am now attempting to change head gasket. I used this video to get at least part way there. Have u ever done a head gasket on ur Dodge vans before? And thank u for all the help u give thru ur videos!
Hello Mr javo. First I would like to say thank you very much for your amazing 👏 tutorial and pretty sure just like every single person who watched it I'm so grateful. Thanks. And would like to share a big issue that I have with my 2010 grand caravan 3.8l please let me know if you can help me.
Started doing this today and one of the lower intake manifold bolts broke off, so at a stand still till I can find new bolts and get the old one out.doesn't help it has 263k on it lol.
Great Video and will be using it when I change mine on an 03 T&C this week! I also will be changing the valve cover gaskets at same time seeing the comment made 👆 above. A mechanic shop quoted $350 for this job and that is without the valve cover gaskets..So thank you for this vid!🙏👍
@Gregory Turner - Thank you very much for the compliment Gregory! Super smart of you to do the valve cover gaskets while you're that deep in the motor. It will be so much easier with the intake manifold out of the way, you'll be happily surprised. My I suggest you consider your spark plugs while you're there? With everything out it's another simple process. Naturally, only if it's time for you to do so. I bet in the end you'll end up saving yourself about $400-$500 and that is awesome! Good luck to you on your project. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions along the way, I'll do my best to help. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage yes sir I will be doing the spark plugs and wires as well because those back ones are not easy to get to.I also will be doing what you said about the oil change..I also have a whining in the power steering as well and have heard that the reservoir can become clogged and appear to be full with fluid but because of the clogged reservoir, the pump is starved of fluid..It needs a little TLC but with 230,000 miles I can't complain!! Again thanks for your very well put together videos!🙏
@Gregory Turner - You're on the right track there Greg with the power steering whine. I've come across that issue several times over the years and it was resolved with a new reservoir. May be a good time for new fluid since you're doing the reservoir. Chrysler specifies to use the transmission (ATF+4) fluid for that. That van of yours is going to running like new again! Good luck on your project(s), you got this!!
@@javosgarage No, while I had the fuel rail harness unwrapped I noticed someone had a jumper wire from coil bank number one, the one that controls my misfiring cylinder 3 to the computer, so that's my next project.
Good video I have the same motor...I'm getting oil up in the intake and keeps fouling out the plugs . When I removed the throttle body it was covered in oil ...could it be the the intake leaking or something else..? I was told it was pvc valve but I replaced that and still doing it. Getting real rich gas smell out of exhaust and black smoke. Would appreciate any help Or do you think could be the fuel pressure regulator ..?
Hi James. When it comes to oil in the intake and throttle body, this is not uncommon for many vehicles, not just this one. In the case of this motor, and to break it down into basic terms, you have a vent line that comes off of your rear valve cover (where the PCV is) straight to the top of your intake manifold, and you have a vent that comes from the front valve cover to the air filter box (post filter side). The "vapor' coming from this has oil which causes build-up on the throttle body and the internals of the intake manifold. The rear valve cover has the PCV, and the front has no valve. These cause quite a bit of build-up, especially if the PCV is bad. This can also cause your plugs to become fouled, which could then cause the black smoke and fuel smell issue. I would recheck the plugs and clean them if necessary to ensure all the fuel is getting burned off. I would also check to see if there are any pending diagnostic codes in the system. I have never had to do any repair that required a new pressure regulator in the vans I've dealt with (not to say they can't go bad), but I have replaced a few fuel pumps, which is where the regulator is located. Also, if you still have the original spark plug wires, I would change them too. I hope this helps point you in the right direction for a solution to your problem.
@Gerry Jamieson - Generally, I pressure wash the motor before I start the job so it's mostly clean when I start. You may have noticed there was some water dripping off the upper plenum when I removed it and turned it over. Once they're out I use my pressure washer on the plenums again because I can then get to all the hard to reach areas and clean the internal cavities. Once that's done, I'm using either brake cleaner or a squirt bottle with Dawn dish soap along with a ScotchBrite pad to thoroughly clean all the gasket mating surfaces. Then if necessary, I'll hit it one last time with the pressure washer to make sure there is no residue or pieces of dirt that can harm the motor internals. It's a process (I'm a bit type A when it comes to these things) but as you can see it gives me great results.
@MARK JR - Please forgive my delayed response. Been working with the wife and kids to start school today at the house. What a project! I used a 3/8' Craftsman click type torque wrench for this one. Sorry I'm late, hopefully that helps a bit. Thank you for stopping by!
@Mike Selsvik - On the vans I have seen that is correct. If you go to about the 17 minute mark in the first video of this series where I begin to remove the fuel line you will see it is routed over the ac line from the factory. Hope that helps you, let me know if you need anything else.
@Babyliss Pro - I picked up my Husky torque wrench at my local Home Depot. Here's a link to the one I have: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-80-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Digital-Display-Click-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWDIG/206096361 Unfortunately, their website says it's out of stock, it looks like they're replacing it with a newer model that's twice the price. Interestingly, the new model they're showing is exactly the same torque wrench as the Kobalt at Lowe's and the Quinn at Harbor Freight - apparently one company is starting to make them for all the big box stores now. I also own the new, more expensive model but in the Kobalt version and it's also a really nice torque wrench with many more features. To be honest, if you're just going to be using it occasionally, get a click type wrench and save yourself some money. You could get one like this and do just fine: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-ft-lbs-to-100-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWA/205913996 One thing to note, this one starts at 20 ft.lbs as opposed to the other one that can go to 5 ft.lbs. which can be really handy at times. Sorry, didn't mean to give you complications just some options to consider. Hopefully it helps more than confuses. Thanks for stopping by!
@Paul McAllister - Dang it! I wish YT would allow me to go back and correct that but now that it's published I can't. I guess I totally missed doubling that content during editing. Good catch! I'll try to be more careful.
Need urgent help - what is the size of the gasket retaining screw? Where can I order them? I broke the head of one of them while working at it. I just applied some extra silicone underneath it for a temporary seal. Can I still drive the van? I am wondering if it is going to cause major leak.
Hi Murtaza. That retaining “screw” is a M6-1 x 18 flange head bolt. The part number is 06101010. Here is a link to look at: www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/BOLT-AND--WASHER--SCREW-AND-WASHER-Sensor-Head-To-Knuckle-Hex-Head-M6x12--M6x1x18/4559277/06101010.html Don’t let the initial description fool you. This bolt is used for different applications, the intake manifold gasket being one of them. If you read through the description it will mention it. Now, having said that you need something quick to get your job done. The closest thing I could find doing a quick search was a Dorman product but it is a M6-1 x 20 so you would have to see if it would work. Here is a link to that: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-flanged-bolt-class-10.9-m6-1-x-20mm-980-220d/11910808-p?product_channel=local&store=7671&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=7671&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIucrA_Kyz_QIV2hutBh3Q4g0oEAQYASABEgJn4PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You could also go to a local hardware store as well. Hope this helps you. Good luck on your project, let me know how it goes!
Ultimately you have to make that decision based on what you can see and hear, I naturally can’t do that here. Having said that, the purpose of this retaining “screw” is to secure the ends of intake gasket to prevent leaks. I don’t necessarily see how not having this installed would directly cause a catastrophic failure. Make sure you watch for leaks and maintain your oil level constantly. What I do see is that it will probably leak and then you’re back to where you started in the first place. I know (and I get it, trust me) you don’t want to hear this but the best thing would be to get another “screw” and put it in there to be safe. It would be horrible to have something bad happen over a $4 part.
@@javosgarage You are amazing. I am stressed out and your prompt response is of great help. Thanks again. I dont mind opening it all up to put in the screw. Two challenges: 1) Big one is to remove the broken bolt, 2) Finding the Screw. It is unavailable at the site you referred. AutoZone has a 16mm and a 20mm M6-1. Do you think it would work?
As long as the thread pitch (and length) matches up you should be okay. Naturally, do it by hand the first time so you can make sure it's right and you don't damage the threads. An m6 is a smaller size bolt IMHO so I believe your biggest challenge here is getting the broken bolt removed without damaging the threads in the block. If you do, then you would have to do something like a Helicoil. Not the end of the world, but more time. Let me really stress to you that in this whole process DO NOT allow the metal shavings to fall down into the motor! That actually could (and most likely would) result in catastrophic failure and we certainly don't want that. I would do two things: 1. Make sure the completely cover the open valley of the motor similar to what you see me do in the video (consider using an old bath towel and stuff it tightly down in there with no openings) and 2. Have a vacuum running with the hose right next to your drill bit while you're working. If it's powerful enough, hopefully it will suck everything up as you go. Okay, I'll add a third thing - once you have the broken bolt out and the towels removed from the open valley make sure to very carefully inspect down in there for ANY signs of metal shavings and even vacuum it out in there to be sure. This is one of those projects that careful attention to the details will save you time and potentially thousand$ in a motor replacement. Take your time, be careful, be thorough, and you should do great. You got this!
Lo siento, no puedo ayudarte con problemas de cadena de distribución, no he tenido que hacer esa reparación en una de estas camionetas. Pido disculpas.
Fantastic blow by blow instructions. Best tutorials on You tube in my opinion.
It might be worth mentioning that while the lower intake is out of the way that it's a really good opportunity to replace the valve cover gaskets. It will save you a ton of aggravation in the long run. Another $15 well spent
I really enjoy all of your videos. Very well executed sir. Thanks for spending your time making them, its a great confidence booster for us DIY'ers with aging vehicles.
Tim
@boell4grumpa - Tim, I am both humbled and grateful for your kind words, thank you. Your are 100% correct on the valve cover gaskets. This van was an 06 and that hasn't been a real issue for those later years so I totally forgot to mention the valve cover gaskets which is a BIG issue on the earlier years of the 4th Gen vans. Good catch and great advice!!! When you're this far down that job is a breeze and the additional gasket expense for the valve covers is a "no brainer". Thank you for taking the time to leave me such a great compliment and great advice for future viewers. My goal here is to help people and you did just that!
@@javosgarage Maybe you could do a video using just the forward valve cover as an example, those cover bolts with the individual gasket rings look a bit tricky.
@@paulmcallister807 - Very true, especially on the backside of the motor. I am still looking for my next project van so I can complete this "series" of videos on these vans. There will probably be about another 15-20 videos to complete the set.
Absolutely the best step by step how to video on this procedure hands down. You should get an Oscar. A medal maybe even a Gold Star next to your name. Well done. Thank you from Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada
@Gerry Jamieson - Wow! I'm speechless, thank you so very much for the HUGE compliment! I do try to provide the "details" to help make the job go easier. It's great to know you found my video to be helpful. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
I’m about to tackle this job and this is an outstanding step by step instructions. Much appreciated Sir.
2005 Dodge GC SXT 3.8L ... Yea ,, still got a 2005 year vehicle ,, 😅 .
Have hauled multiple nieces and nephews ,, drywall sheets ,, construction debris ,, and even my 1996 CBR 699F3 ( that I still got ) in this Sto 'n Go model .
Close to 190,000 miles .
I thank God for the reliability I've gotten from this vehicle .
Time to show it some MORE TLC with repairs you've made ,, AND HELPFULLY !!!! ,,
video'd .
Thanks , Javo !!!
This is the absolute best auto video I've seen, and I've watched a lot of em. The step by step explanation ...awesome!!!
@want2no2 - Well thank you very much for the great compliment. It always puts huge smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been beneficial to someone. I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Amazing. Someone on you tube who actually does things correctly. I also follow my factory shop manual. One more thing I'd do on one with this age and mileage is replace all coolant hoses and thermostat. I do that at 100K as part of tune up. Much cheaper and easier to do that in the shop instead of on the side of the interstate.
Thank you for the compliment! Good tip on the hoses and thermostat too.
I just did this on my 07 Caravan. Your videos helped me through the whole process. I couldn't disconnect the wiring harness to the fuel injectors. It was seized badly and the plastic clips broke off. Had to leave it connected as I took out the manifold, with the fuel rail attached and flipped it upside down onto a piece of cardboard, balancing it on a 90 degree on the air filter housing and wiper fluid container. It took longer to clean everything but it all worked and no leaks after one week. Thanks Javo!
Hey, I had the same exact problem!!! Took me a half day to remove it, a lot of prayer taking place! But finally came off. Boy, I sure hope the rest of the job is not as bad!
I have watched every video on this subject on RUclips, or at least it feels that way. LOL Yours is by FAR the best. This is the one that I came back to when I was actually DOING the job. Subscribed.
@Frank - Well thank you very much for the great compliment Frank! It always puts a huge smile on my face to hear one of my videos has been helpful to someone. Hopefully everything went well for you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - thank you.
His videos r the very best and very well explained 👏 👌 👍
I can’t thank you enough for these “classes”! I just did this (as well as the oil pan) on my 2007 Grand Caravan. The job came out as perfect as your instructions! (Which are PERFECT!!!).
One of the best videos I have seen
Glad you enjoyed my video! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Wanted to say thank you for this video. Saved me 1700.00. Very educational experience!
You are very welcome. That is AWESOME, what a savings! Always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been so helpful to someone. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback. Thank you.
Great video buddy. Great camera work and play by play.
@Barry Wright - Hey Berry, thank you very much for the compliment(s)! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Absolutely excellent videos. Best how-to on the internet that I've ever seen.
Seriously thorough. Every step clearly explained and filmed. Thank you!
Javo... together we could make a fortune repairing cars :)
Thanks for the great and wonderful video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent tutorial
Glad you liked it!
Excellent tutorial!!! Best instructions I have ever seen. Thank you!!!
Javo you did a fantastic job here on this video one of my friends dog he has a 3.3 and his leaking oil all over the motor I think the main culprit is the intake manifold like what you did here I'll have to tell him to watch your video and I will help him do the job but thank you for the fantastic job that you did on this two-part series thank you .
Great job Best detailed video on how to do something the right way!! Thanks
I appreciate that!
It’s a great job baddy
This guy is awesome
Thank you X, I appreciate the compliment. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Great videos and philosophy. Thanks!
@Canadian Drifter - Thank you very much for the compliment! I really appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment, thank you.
Absolutely FANTASTIC! Thank you!
@Deadbuck73 - Thank you! I hope you found the information helpful to you on your project. I always appreciate someone taking a moment to provide me some feedback. Thanks for stopping by!
Javo’s Garage I’m doing it right now... so far so good... I’ll update as I get along...
@Deadbuck73 - Where you able to complete your project? I'm anxious to hear how things went for you.
I’m just going to let it go to the scrap yard... I found more problems after completing this project and it’s just not worth the time and money involved to keep milking it along... the rust is only growing too... it’s better this way :( I’ll miss the old van.... it was a work horse...
Great step by step thank you
you do a fantastic job sir , thanks
Should have put the ps resivore on before the coil pack
@Mike Selsvik - You could certainly do that, it's really a matter of preference. It seems to work better for me to work my way "up". Thanks for stopping by!
Nice and organized
@Base Bowman - Thank you. I just HAVE to have a clean, organized work space or it drives me crazy! Nothing is more irritating or time consuming than having to spend 20 minutes looking for a tool or part. That's just me though. Thanks for the comment!
X Cellant video...good job...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👏
Excellent work and explanation
you pointed upward to where you said a link in descriptions would be ... i never found them ... i did however go to videos to find your other videos particularly removing the cowl and wiper motor ... i really like your videos ..your style is like the 50's kid on BMW videos that help me on my sons car .. i have a caravan
@1albertberman - Thank you for letting me know! I added the links during the video but forgot to add the links in the description. That problem is now solved and the links are in the description. Thank you for stopping by, the compliment and letting me know about the links - much appreciated!
All you need was to replace the valve cover gaskets and you'd pretty much seal the deal. Even changing out the head gaskets isn't so bad on those engines.
Hi Javo, I've used ur videos for my 2007 Dodge Caravan for a lot of things. I am now attempting to change head gasket. I used this video to get at least part way there. Have u ever done a head gasket on ur Dodge vans before? And thank u for all the help u give thru ur videos!
Hello Mr javo. First I would like to say thank you very much for your amazing 👏 tutorial and pretty sure just like every single person who watched it I'm so grateful. Thanks. And would like to share a big issue that I have with my 2010 grand caravan 3.8l please let me know if you can help me.
Nice job, just did mine today. You should have went ahead and do the valve covers since you had it all tore apart...
Good video tho!!
Fantastic 👍
Started doing this today and one of the lower intake manifold bolts broke off, so at a stand still till I can find new bolts and get the old one out.doesn't help it has 263k on it lol.
thank you,, i save $2000 for service
Whoa... that is AWESOME! Super glad my video was able to help you. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Great Video and will be using it when I change mine on an 03 T&C this week! I also will be changing the valve cover gaskets at same time seeing the comment made 👆 above. A mechanic shop quoted $350 for this job and that is without the valve cover gaskets..So thank you for this vid!🙏👍
@Gregory Turner - Thank you very much for the compliment Gregory! Super smart of you to do the valve cover gaskets while you're that deep in the motor. It will be so much easier with the intake manifold out of the way, you'll be happily surprised. My I suggest you consider your spark plugs while you're there? With everything out it's another simple process. Naturally, only if it's time for you to do so. I bet in the end you'll end up saving yourself about $400-$500 and that is awesome! Good luck to you on your project. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions along the way, I'll do my best to help. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage yes sir I will be doing the spark plugs and wires as well because those back ones are not easy to get to.I also will be doing what you said about the oil change..I also have a whining in the power steering as well and have heard that the reservoir can become clogged and appear to be full with fluid but because of the clogged reservoir, the pump is starved of fluid..It needs a little TLC but with 230,000 miles I can't complain!! Again thanks for your very well put together videos!🙏
@Gregory Turner - You're on the right track there Greg with the power steering whine. I've come across that issue several times over the years and it was resolved with a new reservoir. May be a good time for new fluid since you're doing the reservoir. Chrysler specifies to use the transmission (ATF+4) fluid for that. That van of yours is going to running like new again! Good luck on your project(s), you got this!!
@Gregory Turner - Hey Gregory! Just touching base with you to see how your job went. Everything go okay? Do you need help with anything?
Is it necessary to change that lower intake metal gasket ?
Hi Javo's Have you done this on a 96 Town country 3.3 engine? will it be similar?
What is the torque spec for the 10mm gasket retaining bolts to the valley?
@Paul McAllister - The intake manifold gasket retaining screws are 105 in.lbs.
Javo’s Garage Thanks very much, Javo. I will let you know if this fixes my P0303.
@Paul McAllister - You're very welcome, glad to help! I hope this repair solves your problem.
@Paul McAllister - Hey Paul, just touching base. Did this repair resolve your problem?
@@javosgarage No, while I had the fuel rail harness unwrapped I noticed someone had a jumper wire from coil bank number one, the one that controls my misfiring cylinder 3 to the computer, so that's my next project.
Good video I have the same motor...I'm getting oil up in the intake and keeps fouling out the plugs . When I removed the throttle body it was covered in oil ...could it be the the intake leaking or something else..? I was told it was pvc valve but I replaced that and still doing it. Getting real rich gas smell out of exhaust and black smoke. Would appreciate any help
Or do you think could be the fuel pressure regulator ..?
Hi James. When it comes to oil in the intake and throttle body, this is not uncommon for many vehicles, not just this one. In the case of this motor, and to break it down into basic terms, you have a vent line that comes off of your rear valve cover (where the PCV is) straight to the top of your intake manifold, and you have a vent that comes from the front valve cover to the air filter box (post filter side). The "vapor' coming from this has oil which causes build-up on the throttle body and the internals of the intake manifold. The rear valve cover has the PCV, and the front has no valve. These cause quite a bit of build-up, especially if the PCV is bad. This can also cause your plugs to become fouled, which could then cause the black smoke and fuel smell issue. I would recheck the plugs and clean them if necessary to ensure all the fuel is getting burned off. I would also check to see if there are any pending diagnostic codes in the system. I have never had to do any repair that required a new pressure regulator in the vans I've dealt with (not to say they can't go bad), but I have replaced a few fuel pumps, which is where the regulator is located. Also, if you still have the original spark plug wires, I would change them too. I hope this helps point you in the right direction for a solution to your problem.
What did you use to clean both upper and lower plenums?
@Gerry Jamieson - Generally, I pressure wash the motor before I start the job so it's mostly clean when I start. You may have noticed there was some water dripping off the upper plenum when I removed it and turned it over. Once they're out I use my pressure washer on the plenums again because I can then get to all the hard to reach areas and clean the internal cavities. Once that's done, I'm using either brake cleaner or a squirt bottle with Dawn dish soap along with a ScotchBrite pad to thoroughly clean all the gasket mating surfaces. Then if necessary, I'll hit it one last time with the pressure washer to make sure there is no residue or pieces of dirt that can harm the motor internals. It's a process (I'm a bit type A when it comes to these things) but as you can see it gives me great results.
What kind of chemicals did you use to clean the upper manifold from the inside and the outside?
What size torqk wrench did you ues im doing my now thank you
@MARK JR - Please forgive my delayed response. Been working with the wife and kids to start school today at the house. What a project! I used a 3/8' Craftsman click type torque wrench for this one. Sorry I'm late, hopefully that helps a bit. Thank you for stopping by!
Are you shure the fuel line goes over the ac line
@Mike Selsvik - On the vans I have seen that is correct. If you go to about the 17 minute mark in the first video of this series where I begin to remove the fuel line you will see it is routed over the ac line from the factory. Hope that helps you, let me know if you need anything else.
@Javo's Garage Where can i purchase your same Husky torque wrench? Cause i need one.
@Babyliss Pro - I picked up my Husky torque wrench at my local Home Depot. Here's a link to the one I have: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-80-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Digital-Display-Click-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWDIG/206096361
Unfortunately, their website says it's out of stock, it looks like they're replacing it with a newer model that's twice the price. Interestingly, the new model they're showing is exactly the same torque wrench as the Kobalt at Lowe's and the Quinn at Harbor Freight - apparently one company is starting to make them for all the big box stores now. I also own the new, more expensive model but in the Kobalt version and it's also a really nice torque wrench with many more features. To be honest, if you're just going to be using it occasionally, get a click type wrench and save yourself some money. You could get one like this and do just fine: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-ft-lbs-to-100-ft-lbs-3-8-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H3DTWA/205913996 One thing to note, this one starts at 20 ft.lbs as opposed to the other one that can go to 5 ft.lbs. which can be really handy at times.
Sorry, didn't mean to give you complications just some options to consider. Hopefully it helps more than confuses. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage I would like to chat with you through email is that okay my friend?
You need to re-edit from 19:36 for about a minute
@Paul McAllister - Dang it! I wish YT would allow me to go back and correct that but now that it's published I can't. I guess I totally missed doubling that content during editing. Good catch! I'll try to be more careful.
Need urgent help - what is the size of the gasket retaining screw? Where can I order them? I broke the head of one of them while working at it. I just applied some extra silicone underneath it for a temporary seal. Can I still drive the van? I am wondering if it is going to cause major leak.
Hi Murtaza. That retaining “screw” is a M6-1 x 18 flange head bolt. The part number is 06101010. Here is a link to look at: www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/BOLT-AND--WASHER--SCREW-AND-WASHER-Sensor-Head-To-Knuckle-Hex-Head-M6x12--M6x1x18/4559277/06101010.html
Don’t let the initial description fool you. This bolt is used for different applications, the intake manifold gasket being one of them. If you read through the description it will mention it.
Now, having said that you need something quick to get your job done. The closest thing I could find doing a quick search was a Dorman product but it is a M6-1 x 20 so you would have to see if it would work. Here is a link to that: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-flanged-bolt-class-10.9-m6-1-x-20mm-980-220d/11910808-p?product_channel=local&store=7671&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=7671&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIucrA_Kyz_QIV2hutBh3Q4g0oEAQYASABEgJn4PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You could also go to a local hardware store as well.
Hope this helps you. Good luck on your project, let me know how it goes!
@@javosgarage Thank you so much for the prompt response. Can I still drive the van for short distances? I have put everything back together.
Ultimately you have to make that decision based on what you can see and hear, I naturally can’t do that here. Having said that, the purpose of this retaining “screw” is to secure the ends of intake gasket to prevent leaks. I don’t necessarily see how not having this installed would directly cause a catastrophic failure. Make sure you watch for leaks and maintain your oil level constantly. What I do see is that it will probably leak and then you’re back to where you started in the first place. I know (and I get it, trust me) you don’t want to hear this but the best thing would be to get another “screw” and put it in there to be safe. It would be horrible to have something bad happen over a $4 part.
@@javosgarage You are amazing. I am stressed out and your prompt response is of great help. Thanks again. I dont mind opening it all up to put in the screw. Two challenges: 1) Big one is to remove the broken bolt, 2) Finding the Screw. It is unavailable at the site you referred. AutoZone has a 16mm and a 20mm M6-1. Do you think it would work?
As long as the thread pitch (and length) matches up you should be okay. Naturally, do it by hand the first time so you can make sure it's right and you don't damage the threads. An m6 is a smaller size bolt IMHO so I believe your biggest challenge here is getting the broken bolt removed without damaging the threads in the block. If you do, then you would have to do something like a Helicoil. Not the end of the world, but more time. Let me really stress to you that in this whole process DO NOT allow the metal shavings to fall down into the motor! That actually could (and most likely would) result in catastrophic failure and we certainly don't want that. I would do two things: 1. Make sure the completely cover the open valley of the motor similar to what you see me do in the video (consider using an old bath towel and stuff it tightly down in there with no openings) and 2. Have a vacuum running with the hose right next to your drill bit while you're working. If it's powerful enough, hopefully it will suck everything up as you go. Okay, I'll add a third thing - once you have the broken bolt out and the towels removed from the open valley make sure to very carefully inspect down in there for ANY signs of metal shavings and even vacuum it out in there to be sure. This is one of those projects that careful attention to the details will save you time and potentially thousand$ in a motor replacement. Take your time, be careful, be thorough, and you should do great. You got this!
Las. Pocision. De. Cadena. De. Tienpo
Lo siento, no puedo ayudarte con problemas de cadena de distribución, no he tenido que hacer esa reparación en una de estas camionetas. Pido disculpas.