I switched to 7/16 steel just after I got my Yeti from you. It just works for me with the Yeti and my EVO Stainless. Crushes cans and carries much better at extended ranges. Mass beats speed every day!!!
These test videos help a bunch, 'cause I have a stack of different bands to try out. So, you're saving me some time! lol I just ordered a Rougarou from your Etsy store yesterday. I look forward to trying it out! Keep slingin' bro. :)
Been using 1mm thick flats with 11mm aka 7/16 shot shortly after I got into the hobby a few years ago. Although larger is better for exploding glass bottles, hunting, and even self-defense, I have had smaller bearings penetrate wooden boards where the larger ammo just bounces off (I’m guessing the smaller travels faster). Thanks for the info!
11mm steel is the best. For over 15 years of slingshot hunitng experience, i know for a fact that the blunt force trauma is the factor here. If you want to hit a rabbit head consistently you need a good normal mouth bow anchor point. No butterfly style of shooting is included here. Ideal would be 10 mm lead but its much harder to get and more expensive. Over that weight you will get unnecessary trajectory loss. 11 mm steel is 5.5 grams and kills every time if hit in rabbit head. 8 mm steel, 2 grams does not, belive me i have tried. I also recommend 1745 tubes over bands for 11 mm steel. Because you get atleast 10-15 times more shots before they brake. Also you dont have to mess with cutting tapered bands all day long. And the speed is fairly the same compared to thera band gold. So my advice is 11 mm steel and 1745 tubes :)
Thanks for taking the time to share this interesting info'. I'm new to the pastime, and don't really understand the impact of different bands or ammo. As I'm still trying to improve my aim, I've only used clay ammo until now, but can imagine that steel would be faster, and would be more destructive.
I had shot .50 cal ball for a while but noticed that it isn't always backyard friendly. A bounce shot can crash through an expensive window. 9 to 9.5 seems to be easier to find and less of a problem if it careens off into another yard.
I crack rabbit and squirrel skulls on the regular with 9.5 and 11 mm. Trajectories are different. I sling both with a (.7 -23/18 taper) seems to lay them down for the” forever nap”😎
Either ammo will work fine, but I prefer 11mm for 2 major reasons: 1) much more mass in the ammo without losing much speed.. The same bands I use for 9.5 steel will send the 11 steel with plenty of speed. But if I step up a band thickness, even a little I can get the 11 steel moving plenty fast. 2) The extra ammo circumference allows for a larger area where shots can hit and still kill.
@@TheSmoShow1 I agree with both points! The down range stopping power of 11 mm is phenomenal. I know shot placement is a key factor in hunting , but I’ve been off a little with the 9.5 and they get away…. With 11 mm it lays them down hard! 😃lights out
@@kanatislings9307there is no availability of 11mm steel ball in my locality,is 10 mm steel is a good option for hunting hares with 12-20 taper and 0.8 mm thickness (17cm active length) Pls reply
@@rahul_shekhawat_ I think that’ll be fine man. Practice with a consistent set up and you’ll do well. I practice at many different distances. Not much over 15-20 yards though. I shoots lots of pine cones too at different heights. Great practice
My current heavy rig, it a simple shot hammer occularis, running 1.25”x8(ish)” [active length] tbg bands {double band set - 2/side}. Thinking I’m going to need .58-68 cal lead to make use of the power that straight cut band will provide, and to avoid excessive hand slap.
Great vid, thank you, just getting into slingshots and these analysis videos are very helpful. I'm having a hard time justifying using any shot lighter than 5.5g / 11mm steel, it seems the retraction speed limit of even the most ideally tapered flats causes a drop in energy transfer that takes effect starting around ~180fps or so and really kicks in around ~220. I'm sure the total mass of the bands themselves are a large factor, I would imagine short high draw bands with a tiny lightweight pouch would be best for light shot speed. Tubes then would be good only for very heavy shot or fishing bolts/arrows, but I wonder about ideal draw there... interesting stuff, please let me know if you have any thoughts
Man your videos are just what I have been wanting to see keep it up. You are so logical like me. Only thing I could ask for is slow down the captions lol. I read slow but once again thanks. Have you tried simply shot bands?
My lighter (daily carry) is a Fowler sparrow by simple shot. Running their black latex, that came with it as a kit. Shoots 1/2” glass marbles with pretty good speed. I find the 1/4” steel to be to light for my tastes.
You can always get bigger ammo and thicker bands and it's all good to you, but not for you. Lighter bands and smaller ammo improves accuracy. I have experienced it myself. If you want to stop focusing on shooting to just hit it, go 8mm/9.5mm so you can start to hit the heads of a bird.
A lot of people have reported switching to 8mm/5/16 steel over 11-12.5mm steel or lead partly because of penetration. I can attest to penetration is critical with low power rounds as I have personally seen a 40 grain solid from a .22 LR penetrate the skull of a three year old black bear and drop him in the spot. A hollow point round WILL NOT do that. I have seen those fail on the skulls of yearling goats at ten feet. Foot pounds is only part of a killing equation.
Smaller ammo doesn't penetrate any better. Slingshots just aren't fast enough. Here is a link to Wayne Martin's video on penetration. It'll show you beyond a doubt that 10mm Lead or 11mm steel will penetrate better than 8mm steel. Foot pounds isn't the ONLY thing that matters, but slingshots have very low speed and relatively light projectiles. To have any real impact at any real distance, the mass has to maintain energy down range. 8mm steel ammo doesn't do that effectively, and any penetration power it had at 10 ft will be lost at 30 yards. ruclips.net/video/irYIO9YGEZg/видео.htmlsi=m7595iQwjmIA12WH
I seen a video of people hunting small game with these. At first I thought couldnt be. Just got one this week, Dennis the mennis makes it hard to give these any legitimacy
The humble Y stick with latex is plenty capable of taking almost any small game. I've taken many squirrels, and a few chipmunks, but people hunt pheasant, iguana, raccoon, and Ive even heard of people taking foxes and coyotes with them.
look up GameKeeper John on RUclips.. he has several videos on why people may get frame hits! It's usually down to the release, but may be a number of other factors
@@TheSmoShow1 thank you, I have hunted and fished about any way imaginable, started fly fishing 2 yrs ago and have caught more fish less effort than all the days i been spin casting, this really has advantages and could definitely be a great skill in a survival shtf scenario
In 3rd worlds, it's like throwing away some considerable money overtime. Unless it's hunting for food or used to practice with catchboxes, then everything's fine
Another good one so far still watching! I made one of your slings from the video i noticed if you roll the bottom on your bands when you tie them on like on a top bead shot it seems more accurate at least for me or its all in my head lmao :D
Great review, can you do same test with different size of ammo and slingshot in 20 or 30 yard of distance. And let's see what chroni test show us about energy at 30 yard target. I mean on 30 yard which ammo hit with more power. Kindly make it it's second part sir. Love from India👌
Nice video. I shoot now 11mm steel with 25x20 0.85 great white from catty shack and 73cm draw length. Not a light draw, but still confortable. I achieve around 255 fps with these setup, so around 15 foot pounds i think
15 ft lbs is quite some energy!! Personally I want to find the highest speed for the lightest draw weight. I have some green GZK that will send my 11mm steel over 220fps which have a much lighter draw weight than the SHESHOU.
Tealky good usefull information. Id rather this than smart arses bragging about how awesome they are. I use tubes cos bands are too hard to find in new zealand. Simpleshot sell pre cut bands and thyr 6$ a pop. No thanks! I use multi dipped medical grade 9mm tubes. Four of them. I make my slingshots like ruger handles that everything can be adjusted to your body offset at 15deg. I use rotating cams as posts to get rid of those nasty dead zones thru the center; but mainly to conserve the flow of energy. Tubes when released dont flow as well as bands so the cams are very necessary. Also as you say if bands unstretch and have no angular momentum can load the rubber and it can explode on you. You said something about losing power. When you stretch your bands; do it a few times to warm up the latex then shoot within about 3 secinds befire they cool down. You get a 25%increase in power. You said you like 9mm bslks with your "smooth" slingshot. Sounds like you can feel when the power and inertua are matching up. Ive done this for 20yrs and your right on. Good to know chronographs work on slow ammo; im gonna use dads now and see. My draw weight is around 25 pound ish.
I use my slingshot to mimic my traditional archery setup. 1/2" steel in the 200 fps range gives me nearly identical speed, arc, and anchor points. The more I sling the better I get at archery and vise versa. The slingshot seems to carry over to archery skills better though. I prefer to goof with slingshoting though.
Great video loved the comments I could almost feel the bands. Well done.
I switched to 7/16 steel just after I got my Yeti from you. It just works for me with the Yeti and my EVO Stainless. Crushes cans and carries much better at extended ranges. Mass beats speed every day!!!
These test videos help a bunch, 'cause I have a stack of different bands to try out. So, you're saving me some time! lol I just ordered a Rougarou from your Etsy store yesterday. I look forward to trying it out! Keep slingin' bro. :)
I love the 11mm steel. That’s all I use now especially for hunting. I only use the 9.5 for target practice.
10mm lead seems a good compromise, especially for hunting!
Is 10 mm steel good for hunting hares with 0.8 mm rubber thickness and 12 20 taper..
Been using 1mm thick flats with 11mm aka 7/16 shot shortly after I got into the hobby a few years ago.
Although larger is better for exploding glass bottles, hunting, and even self-defense, I have had smaller bearings penetrate wooden boards where the larger ammo just bounces off (I’m guessing the smaller travels faster).
Thanks for the info!
PS - You might try Gamingo 1.5 mm flats, I’m switching to these until something better comes along.
11mm steel is the best. For over 15 years of slingshot hunitng experience, i know for a fact that the blunt force trauma is the factor here. If you want to hit a rabbit head consistently you need a good normal mouth bow anchor point. No butterfly style of shooting is included here. Ideal would be 10 mm lead but its much harder to get and more expensive. Over that weight you will get unnecessary trajectory loss. 11 mm steel is 5.5 grams and kills every time if hit in rabbit head. 8 mm steel, 2 grams does not, belive me i have tried. I also recommend 1745 tubes over bands for 11 mm steel. Because you get atleast 10-15 times more shots before they brake. Also you dont have to mess with cutting tapered bands all day long. And the speed is fairly the same compared to thera band gold. So my advice is 11 mm steel and 1745 tubes :)
Thanks for taking the time to share this interesting info'. I'm new to the pastime, and don't really understand the impact of different bands or ammo. As I'm still trying to improve my aim, I've only used clay ammo until now, but can imagine that steel would be faster, and would be more destructive.
I had shot .50 cal ball for a while but noticed that it isn't always backyard friendly. A bounce shot can crash through an expensive window. 9 to 9.5 seems to be easier to find and less of a problem if it careens off into another yard.
I crack rabbit and squirrel skulls on the regular with 9.5 and 11 mm. Trajectories are different. I sling both with a (.7 -23/18 taper) seems to lay them down for the” forever nap”😎
Either ammo will work fine, but I prefer 11mm for 2 major reasons:
1) much more mass in the ammo without losing much speed.. The same bands I use for 9.5 steel will send the 11 steel with plenty of speed. But if I step up a band thickness, even a little I can get the 11 steel moving plenty fast.
2) The extra ammo circumference allows for a larger area where shots can hit and still kill.
@@TheSmoShow1 I agree with both points! The down range stopping power of 11 mm is phenomenal. I know shot placement is a key factor in hunting , but I’ve been off a little with the 9.5 and they get away…. With 11 mm it lays them down hard! 😃lights out
@@kanatislings9307there is no availability of 11mm steel ball in my locality,is 10 mm steel is a good option for hunting hares with 12-20 taper and 0.8 mm thickness (17cm active length)
Pls reply
@@rahul_shekhawat_ I think that’ll be fine man. Practice with a consistent set up and you’ll do well. I practice at many different distances. Not much over 15-20 yards though. I shoots lots of pine cones too at different heights. Great practice
Excellent video mate and great shooting 👍🏻
My current heavy rig, it a simple shot hammer occularis, running 1.25”x8(ish)” [active length] tbg bands {double band set - 2/side}. Thinking I’m going to need .58-68 cal lead to make use of the power that straight cut band will provide, and to avoid excessive hand slap.
That's definitely a heavy set up!!
Bro what bands do you recommend for 3/8th Daisy steel.
Excellent video. Thanks for the info.
Question? Where are your bands typically breaking? At the pouch, middle or the frame?
How did you mount those heavy tubes?? I think that slingshot is very interesting!
Great vid, thank you, just getting into slingshots and these analysis videos are very helpful. I'm having a hard time justifying using any shot lighter than 5.5g / 11mm steel, it seems the retraction speed limit of even the most ideally tapered flats causes a drop in energy transfer that takes effect starting around ~180fps or so and really kicks in around ~220. I'm sure the total mass of the bands themselves are a large factor, I would imagine short high draw bands with a tiny lightweight pouch would be best for light shot speed. Tubes then would be good only for very heavy shot or fishing bolts/arrows, but I wonder about ideal draw there... interesting stuff, please let me know if you have any thoughts
could you test the tubes too throw the heaviest ammo ( golf balls) . Because im thinking a snooker ball at 100ft/s would be deadly lol
Tubes work, but it's a simple fact that tubes are a little slower than bands.
Tubes last a lot longer than bands though.
Man your videos are just what I have been wanting to see keep it up. You are so logical like me.
Only thing I could ask for is slow down the captions lol. I read slow but once again thanks.
Have you tried simply shot bands?
Why not then stop the video to read it slowly? lol.
I AGREE !!!! On screen print disappears before it can be read- -(minor crying)😵
I'm thinking of switching to 11mm too with 1mm sheshou 25/20 just for more killing power.
I like 19-12 taper with the .8 as the draw weight is significantly lower but the speed isn't that far off
Great video.
My lighter (daily carry) is a Fowler sparrow by simple shot. Running their black latex, that came with it as a kit. Shoots 1/2” glass marbles with pretty good speed. I find the 1/4” steel to be to light for my tastes.
You can always get bigger ammo and thicker bands and it's all good to you, but not for you.
Lighter bands and smaller ammo improves accuracy. I have experienced it myself.
If you want to stop focusing on shooting to just hit it, go 8mm/9.5mm so you can start to hit the heads of a bird.
You remind me of Tony (sopranos) the way you speak 😂.
Get with the times man , flat bands , and good ones gzk ,
Is the sheshou with 25to19 mm taper a heavy draw?
It's about 15lbs to my face.. pretty heavy
I found the weight of 0.117 steel balls form a few manufacturers, weight varied from 0.32 to 0.37 grams.
Ok. But what does a 0.177 weigh?
A lot of people have reported switching to 8mm/5/16 steel over 11-12.5mm steel or lead partly because of penetration.
I can attest to penetration is critical with low power rounds as I have personally seen a 40 grain solid from a .22 LR penetrate the skull of a three year old black bear and drop him in the spot.
A hollow point round WILL NOT do that. I have seen those fail on the skulls of yearling goats at ten feet.
Foot pounds is only part of a killing equation.
Smaller ammo doesn't penetrate any better. Slingshots just aren't fast enough.
Here is a link to Wayne Martin's video on penetration. It'll show you beyond a doubt that 10mm Lead or 11mm steel will penetrate better than 8mm steel. Foot pounds isn't the ONLY thing that matters, but slingshots have very low speed and relatively light projectiles. To have any real impact at any real distance, the mass has to maintain energy down range. 8mm steel ammo doesn't do that effectively, and any penetration power it had at 10 ft will be lost at 30 yards.
ruclips.net/video/irYIO9YGEZg/видео.htmlsi=m7595iQwjmIA12WH
The goats use their heads to fight, they have hard skulls compared other animals
Crossman says 5.28 grains on the .177 bbs. Great video!
thanks for looking that up!!
Them gold ones looks like 1mm precise then the white ones sheou are very very good
I seen a video of people hunting small game with these. At first I thought couldnt be. Just got one this week, Dennis the mennis makes it hard to give these any legitimacy
The humble Y stick with latex is plenty capable of taking almost any small game. I've taken many squirrels, and a few chipmunks, but people hunt pheasant, iguana, raccoon, and Ive even heard of people taking foxes and coyotes with them.
@@TheSmoShow1 the one I got the scout, I keep hitting the frame, cant figure out why
look up GameKeeper John on RUclips.. he has several videos on why people may get frame hits! It's usually down to the release, but may be a number of other factors
@@TheSmoShow1 thank you, I have hunted and fished about any way imaginable, started fly fishing 2 yrs ago and have caught more fish less effort than all the days i been spin casting, this really has advantages and could definitely be a great skill in a survival shtf scenario
In 3rd worlds, it's like throwing away some considerable money overtime. Unless it's hunting for food or used to practice with catchboxes, then everything's fine
Another good one so far still watching! I made one of your slings from the video i noticed if you roll the bottom on your bands when you tie them on like on a top bead shot it seems more accurate at least for me or its all in my head lmao :D
Great review, can you do same test with different size of ammo and slingshot in 20 or 30 yard of distance. And let's see what chroni test show us about energy at 30 yard target. I mean on 30 yard which ammo hit with more power. Kindly make it it's second part sir. Love from India👌
that's a great idea
Nice video.
I shoot now 11mm steel with 25x20 0.85 great white from catty shack and 73cm draw length. Not a light draw, but still confortable. I achieve around 255 fps with these setup, so around 15 foot pounds i think
15 ft lbs is quite some energy!! Personally I want to find the highest speed for the lightest draw weight. I have some green GZK that will send my 11mm steel over 220fps which have a much lighter draw weight than the SHESHOU.
That's 12.6 ft lbs. Still very respectable!
Impressive indeed
@@TheSmoShow1 how much fpe required to kill hare
Tealky good usefull information. Id rather this than smart arses bragging about how awesome they are. I use tubes cos bands are too hard to find in new zealand.
Simpleshot sell pre cut bands and thyr 6$ a pop. No thanks!
I use multi dipped medical grade 9mm tubes. Four of them. I make my slingshots like ruger handles that everything can be adjusted to your body offset at 15deg.
I use rotating cams as posts to get rid of those nasty dead zones thru the center; but mainly to conserve the flow of energy.
Tubes when released dont flow as well as bands so the cams are very necessary.
Also as you say if bands unstretch and have no angular momentum can load the rubber and it can explode on you. You said something about losing power. When you stretch your bands; do it a few times to warm up the latex then shoot within about 3 secinds befire they cool down. You get a 25%increase in power. You said you like 9mm bslks with your "smooth" slingshot. Sounds like you can feel when the power and inertua are matching up. Ive done this for 20yrs and your right on. Good to know chronographs work on slow ammo; im gonna use dads now and see. My draw weight is around 25 pound ish.
Full butterfly = max power
Black bands are the shit .try a set of CHIEF AJ 50# TUBES , if you can pull them . cheers
I've never shot tubes that I actually liked. Never. Maybe one day I'll find some that work for me...
@@TheSmoShow1 Dub Dub , Greens and orange ain't a bad tube ,,,,,,Rolyan tubing ,,,,,last forever with good speed ,very light draw .
You rock, when you do 👌
You're going to throw up and try and edit it into the video? No thanks.
Unless you're want to hunt and kill some living things, I don't think upgrading to larger balls is necessary.
should we all be vegans ?
I use my slingshot to mimic my traditional archery setup.
1/2" steel in the 200 fps range gives me nearly identical speed, arc, and anchor points.
The more I sling the better I get at archery and vise versa. The slingshot seems to carry over to archery skills better though. I prefer to goof with slingshoting though.
👍👌👏
I only will use 12mm only because it’s the only ammo with the right amount of energy and weight for heavy bands