Thank you so much . I never tought it could be done (couldn't figure out this mickeymouse multi-gear 'system' at first and had put it away ). Now just fabricated a M14x1.0 / M12x1.5 adapter for my motorcycle crank puller ...and it worked ! , Well , second time out . The newer models have aluminium gears , I still don't quite trust it (yes, it slipped cogs so I had to be less aggressive second time out , but thanks to your video I finally got it through , and saved a lot of money.
I'm a longtime Sherline user and fan, and would just like to share a bit of my own experience. It takes a bit of practice to get the results you are after, but once you get a feel for it, this is a great accessory. The hand-cranked system really gives you a good feel for how your tool is cutting, and much more control than a power-fed machine, plus it's good exercise. I have cut 3/4 inch threads 6 inches long in stainless steel with great success. Smaller diameter material is more challenging because of its tendency to flex, so you need to take your time. I also find that carbide tipped cutters are very prone to breakage if your workpiece flexes and binds. I got best results with a 5% cobalt toolbit I ground myself.
As usual...this was a very helpful tutorial. The stock bushing could be modified by placing two holes 180° apart into the back face into which a pin spanner could be inserted to retain position while tightening. Also...I hear complaints about the Sherline not having the capability of threading under power, but then I see 7X import lathe users who have to act quickly to stop or retract the tool while threading because the longitudinal speed is much too fast. As a result, they find themselves making a handle to hand crank the spindle. I see the ability to carefully control the speed by hand cranking as a feature, not a drawback. Yes, it is slower, but I would prefer accuracy and quality over production efficiency.
I think I've watched this video about the 3 times in the last year. Thanks for putting together such a great tutorial! Hope you make some more in the future.
Excellent video! I really appreciate that you are willing to show your mistakes, as well as successes. I'm not going to live long enough to make all the mistakes myself, so seeing some of the pitfalls really helps.
Hi, never go back with the tool still inside the piece, plays in the machine could break your tool and fucked up the thread, just go out and restart. Dial indicator helps to go back at the point (if you can afford digital axis reader even better) you can see the material getting pushed on the right side, after the 2,3 passes. lucky just because is brass. 20 years in manual machines.
+foggymind THANK YOU for catching that and pointing it out, you are 100% correct. I'm used to doing that on larger lathes cutting under power, complete brain slip as I working on the manual crank and setup of this accessory. I was saved from it being brass and my gear train being VERY tight and brand new... probably too tight really for comfortable operations. For any reading this, foggymind is completely correct and accurate in his statement. The problem is due to the backlash that is present in all gear/screw driven setups. I don't believe I had discussed backlash as a topic before making this video but it has been covered since if you are not familiar with the topic. As a hobbyist machinist I (and perhaps 1 or 2 of you ;)) will get lazy and try to shortcut the "rules" of backing out and coming forward into the work piece again to account for backlash. There are cases like this when you really MUST follow those procedures. When you can "cheat" and when you can't, and locking those into your brain cells only comes with time and experience so I am very grateful for the feedback and experience of foggymind in pointing out this rookie mistake I made :)
Thanks so much for taking the time. I'm looking forward to the internal thread cutting video. Your sherline tutorial videos are the best on RUclips by far.
Thanks for posting all these great videos - I'm waiting for my first lathe to arrive (a Sherline) and really appreciate your taking the time to explain the operations and offer tips. Please keep them up!
Just recently discovered your series of videos. Excellent presentation, easy to follow. Can't wait to see each and every one. Thanks for your good work.
Forgive the novice question, but what’s actually causing the thread to be cut as opposed to just shaving off the steel to the set depth? What’s the actual mechanism that creates the thread? Many thanks 🙏
Realistically will this lathe cut a 1/2-20 thread in standard drill rod. Obviously the idler bushing will need to be beefed up. I mainly want this attachment for cutting a metric thread, my iron lathe will cut the inch threads. good chance I want more that what is possible. I expect I will need to use the compound with the angle set at 29 degrees. This way I will only be cutting one side of the thread.
Thank you for your fantastic videos! Never having used a lathe, I'm wondering what the advantage is to cutting threads this way rather than using a tap and die?
@@joelmills3931 But a die can cut external threads. I wasn't sure what the advantage of doing it this way was. After watching other videos, it seems this way is simply cleaner.
can you start at the chuck end and spin the knob in the opposite direction to have it run from chuck to tip and fall off the end rather than watch it and stop it at a certain length?
+gburgs Knurling and internal thread cutting are on the list... as the weather turns nicer in the mountains I'm not spending as much time in the basement lately but I will get to them ;)
Thank you so much . I never tought it could be done (couldn't figure out this mickeymouse
multi-gear 'system' at first and had put it away ). Now just fabricated a M14x1.0 / M12x1.5
adapter for my motorcycle crank puller ...and it worked ! , Well , second time out .
The newer models have aluminium gears , I still don't quite trust it (yes, it slipped cogs so I had to be less aggressive second time out , but thanks to your video I finally got it
through , and saved a lot of money.
I'm a longtime Sherline user and fan, and would just like to share a bit of my own experience. It takes a bit of practice to get the results you are after, but once you get a feel for it, this is a great accessory. The hand-cranked system really gives you a good feel for how your tool is cutting, and much more control than a power-fed machine, plus it's good exercise. I have cut 3/4 inch threads 6 inches long in stainless steel with great success. Smaller diameter material is more challenging because of its tendency to flex, so you need to take your time. I also find that carbide tipped cutters are very prone to breakage if your workpiece flexes and binds. I got best results with a 5% cobalt toolbit I ground myself.
As usual...this was a very helpful tutorial. The stock bushing could be modified by placing two holes 180° apart into the back face into which a pin spanner could be inserted to retain position while tightening.
Also...I hear complaints about the Sherline not having the capability of threading under power, but then I see 7X import lathe users who have to act quickly to stop or retract the tool while threading because the longitudinal speed is much too fast. As a result, they find themselves making a handle to hand crank the spindle. I see the ability to carefully control the speed by hand cranking as a feature, not a drawback. Yes, it is slower, but I would prefer accuracy and quality over production efficiency.
I think I've watched this video about the 3 times in the last year. Thanks for putting together such a great tutorial! Hope you make some more in the future.
Excellent video! I really appreciate that you are willing to show your mistakes, as well as successes. I'm not going to live long enough to make all the mistakes myself, so seeing some of the pitfalls really helps.
Hi, never go back with the tool still inside the piece, plays in the machine could break your tool and fucked up the thread, just go out and restart. Dial indicator helps to go back at the point (if you can afford digital axis reader even better) you can see the material getting pushed on the right side, after the 2,3 passes. lucky just because is brass. 20 years in manual machines.
+foggymind THANK YOU for catching that and pointing it out, you are 100% correct. I'm used to doing that on larger lathes cutting under power, complete brain slip as I working on the manual crank and setup of this accessory. I was saved from it being brass and my gear train being VERY tight and brand new... probably too tight really for comfortable operations.
For any reading this, foggymind is completely correct and accurate in his statement. The problem is due to the backlash that is present in all gear/screw driven setups. I don't believe I had discussed backlash as a topic before making this video but it has been covered since if you are not familiar with the topic.
As a hobbyist machinist I (and perhaps 1 or 2 of you ;)) will get lazy and try to shortcut the "rules" of backing out and coming forward into the work piece again to account for backlash. There are cases like this when you really MUST follow those procedures. When you can "cheat" and when you can't, and locking those into your brain cells only comes with time and experience so I am very grateful for the feedback and experience of foggymind in pointing out this rookie mistake I made :)
Thanks so much for taking the time. I'm looking forward to the internal thread cutting video. Your sherline tutorial videos are the best on RUclips by far.
I know it's kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good place to watch new series online?
@Kendrick Colin ehh I use flixportal. You can find it if you google:D -fabian
@Fabian Ryland Thank you, signed up and it seems to work =) I really appreciate it!
@Kendrick Colin no problem xD
Thanks for posting all these great videos - I'm waiting for my first lathe to arrive (a Sherline) and really appreciate your taking the time to explain the operations and offer tips. Please keep them up!
Just recently discovered your series of videos. Excellent presentation, easy to follow. Can't wait to see each and every one. Thanks for your good work.
Forgive the novice question, but what’s actually causing the thread to be cut as opposed to just shaving off the steel to the set depth? What’s the actual mechanism that creates the thread? Many thanks 🙏
Hi, the cross slide for the Sherline looks like black anodized aluminum. Is it aluminum or steel?
Realistically will this lathe cut a 1/2-20 thread in standard drill rod. Obviously the idler bushing will need to be beefed up. I mainly want this attachment for cutting a metric thread, my iron lathe will cut the inch threads. good chance I want more that what is possible. I expect I will need to use the compound with the angle set at 29 degrees. This way I will only be cutting one side of the thread.
Thank you for your fantastic videos! Never having used a lathe, I'm wondering what the advantage is to cutting threads this way rather than using a tap and die?
external threads need this. internal threads can be tapped
@@joelmills3931 But a die can cut external threads. I wasn't sure what the advantage of doing it this way was. After watching other videos, it seems this way is simply cleaner.
can you start at the chuck end and spin the knob in the opposite direction to have it run from chuck to tip and fall off the end rather than watch it and stop it at a certain length?
I don't like that the idler-gear arm is only secured at a single point.
Thanks for the good instructional video.
external or internal thread is : ruclips.net/video/5RLAsKQ0JR0/видео.html
Hope to see a knurling video in the future !
+gburgs Knurling and internal thread cutting are on the list... as the weather turns nicer in the mountains I'm not spending as much time in the basement lately but I will get to them ;)
@@MiniMachining that so?
i like yr video...!