CREE XHP70.2 VS Chinese XHP160 Bench Test
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2021
- In this video I run a CREE XHP70.2 side by side with an XHP160 and show that the CREE LED needs less wattage to make the same amount of light as the XHP160. I then max out my 2 power supplies and we watch the XHP160 slowly smoke itself to death.
Excellent comparison, I have discovered a great channel !!!
Thanks!
Yes its so helpfull
Thank you buddy for your sharing
Awesome review!
People comment on my LED series and I've gotten to the point where I just cringe. 90% of the time, they comment about how they think their crappy chinese LED is so good and better than a real CREE. Anyway, that was my first reaction, but I'm glad to see that someone gets what I'm presenting!
now this is what i like to see brother
Thanks for comparison ~ I always love cree L.E.D :)
CREE isn't the only source for top tier LEDs, but they are a very good one that is popular and easy to get the LEDs. They always out perform the Chinese LEDs.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost the account password. I would love any tips you can offer me
@@leojaxxon3405 No idea why you are posting this in an LED video. Talk to Instagram. This isn't Instagram support. Google for "recovering Instagram password".
@Leo Jaxxon instablaster ;)
@Ralph Arjun thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Would have helped if you had used the same temp ratings.
where i could buy cree xhp70.2 headlamp ?
Is this for the Mten3 project? =)
No...the XHP70.2 is too much power for an EUC. I could put a real XML2 in place of the factory LED. Mostly I do LED lights for EV's, but the idea of the XHP160 was brought to my attention and suggested that it was a great LED option that was better than a CREE. This video is one of several where I debunk this idea. As far as I can tell, China never makes LEDs as good as CREE does.
Afaik the XHP70 is safe to run at 40W too tho
How do you think, what is max Safe current for XHP70.2 in case of 6V or 12? I burned already two XHP70.2 at 2.5A - 3A. And only after that I noticed that 2.4A it is 200% according to the datasheet. And normal 100% current is 1.2A, not 2.4A like everyone is using. What do you think ?
I have a Klein Tools clamp on meter. It works DC or AC. I've made many long lasting XHP70.2 LED lights that are drawing 9 amps at around 7v. As you know, it just depends on if the 2 LED elements are in parallel or series that determines the voltage. I run them in parallel or 6v. You need to keep the LED cool or they will burn up. As you draw more current you will make more heat. Perhaps your LEDs got too hot? 3 amps is hardly anything at 6v.
@@de-bodgery Thx for answer. 3 Amps was on 12V. but, I got your idea. Maybe something was wrong with cooling. I was thinking that received fake LEDs, but they are from official supplier in my country. don`t know what to think. Probably that is my failed. I soldered them by my own on copper pad. Maybe to much or not enough soldering lead. Who know. But looks like overheat problem. Maybe you will tell me more if I will describe how it died. First it start blinking at 200% (~12V 2.5-3A). Like star in the night sky. Than it lose a lot of light in one second. But, when I push LED with finger or re-solder from PAD it again. It started to work normal again for some time. I was thinking I had a problem with poor solder iron contact between LED and copper PAD. But, looks like I just overheat it somehow. ( Just thinking to buy more of them or get some other light source like HID bulb. HID is old, not so cool. But I never had problems with it))))
P.S. sorry for a lot of "But" words. English is not my native.
And about to hot LED... YES! I mean that copper PAD was not to hot but it was impossible to touch upper silicon part of the LED (I am talking about part that sometimes dedomed) . And funny that as soon power supply was turned off in next second (no joke, 1 second) it was possible to touch silicon upper part. It was absolutely cold and second ago it was impossible to keep hand on it. I asked one guy and he said it is normal. Don`t know. I don`t have experience to say if that is normal or not(
@@viko2812 The LED dome will be quite hot or rather is tolerant of lots and lots of heat from the LED. The heat is not the dome, it's the LED under it making all that heat. If the copper star board is 100F that's not a problem.
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These 2 lights are XHP70.2 LEDs running from Castle Creations BEC 2.0 for power. They are set to 7.5v and about 9 amps. The copper stars are glued down with thermal glue and then the aluminum reflector rests on the insulator ring around the LED. Not much to it really! The hosts do get pretty warm just sitting there like in this video, but even a 5 mph wind is enough to keep them cool.
ruclips.net/video/Qwx7Md4UbKc/видео.html
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A few details about LED modding...
ruclips.net/video/PRB1GdN2wh0/видео.html
@@de-bodgery got it. Thank you. Will try again. Maybe I will be more lucky this time )
Hi, i'm from Indonesia, So if i want to buy, should i buy xhp70.2 or xhp160?
you travel with flying carpet?
Hi, the topic of the video is good, but next time check before you shoot to see if you can see anything because the left display is totally unreadable, without your commenting on the value I would just type what is there. In addition to the parameters and qualitative comparison, I would be interested in, for example, the price comparison, which is also quite decisive.
I made this video a good long time ago and didn't even remember the specifics anymore. I can read the left LCD well enough. It does have a bit more glare so it's not as easily read, but still quite readable for voltage and amps. Price...hmmm...feel free to go look that up yourself. I am comparing the light output at the same voltage and obviously far more current for the chinese LED. Price wasn't relevant to this video in any way. Thanks for the feedback.
@@de-bodgery Thank you for fast answer, i ask for price for distributor and it was for XHP 50.3 HD 2-3 EUR / pcs what is not soo bad and y have original Cree. I waiting for price for XHP 70.3 HD what is much more interesting offer. IF i will have price i will let y know.
@@pgchem I buy legit CREE LEDs, but that's in the USA from Mouser or Digikey. I then reflow them onto copper star boards. The Chinese 160 LEDs are a joke and far from better than an XHP70.x. They aren't worth bothering with.
I wish Cree made something stronger than the 70's in the same form factor, or even a real XHP90 (90mm) or a XHP110
i like how a single one of these small leds can reach over 4000 lumens, but i want More XD
That's when I usually make 2 headlights. Also, there are multi XHP70 Chinese lights. The LEDs in them are not great and won't tolerate over watting. Strip off all the electronics from their MCPCB all in one design so you can use just the bare board with CREE LED's and some much better driver and you can have 3 or 4 or whatever legit CREE XHP70.X LEDs in the same host with some crazy light output!
But the battery sold with the xhp160 is only 3.7V, are you not overpowering it with 6V (thus the smoke) ?
Individual LION cells range from 4.2v at full charge to about 3v at fully discharged. There are 2 in series for a voltage range of 8.2v down to about 6v. Between the LED and the batteries is a DC-DC converter (LED driver) providing 5.69v to the LED regardless of the charge level of the batteries. The Chinese flashlight maker knows what I know that the specs for the XHP160 call for 6v. Despite this, they also know that these LEDs are atrociously low quality and start to smoke at 6v...which IS exactly why they run them at 5.69v!!! I made no mistakes running this LED at 6v from a regulated DC source. I simply exposed just HOW shitty they really are!
@@de-bodgery The torch i bought on aliexpress has 16 xhp160 cells but only one battery thus 3.7V. I am a little disappointed with the power, if i understand what you are saying i can find a solution to go up to 5.5V to get more brightness?
@@bridew Can you post the URL for the light you bought?
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Your light has an LED driver in it. The XHP160 is supposed to run at 6v. IF your light lacked an LED driver in it, at full charge it would be brightest and dim considerably as the battery runs down. Since your light runs on a single cell, it has a BOOST converter in it to convert battery voltage to a steady 6v or maybe a little less. BOOST takes a lower voltage and raises it to a higher voltage. Mine with 2 cells in series, is too much voltage so I need a BUCK converter to bring down battery voltage to about 6v.
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BOOST and BUCK converters work the same way in that they take a range of input voltages and convert that to a fixed output voltage. Increasing your input voltage to 5.5v probably won't change the brightness of your light even slightly. First thing you need to find out is what voltage is your LED running at now. You will need a multimeter so you can measure the voltage at your LED when it is at full brightness.
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If you discover you are already running just under 6v, applying more voltage will probably cause your XHP160 to start smoking like mine did. My guess is that many/most of the XHP160 LEDs are dismally poor quality. If there are very good ones, I don't know about them. Even then, I seriously doubt that any are as good as CREE LEDs.
XPH 160 seems brighter for me
"seems brighter" that's due to the blue light content in the Chinese LED being much higher than the CREE LED has. I know that the XHP70.2 is 4300K, but I can guess that the XHP160 is around 5000K. This is why you think it is slightly brighter. Notice however that the XHP160 needs 7.17 amps and the XHP70.2 needs 3.22 amps to make essentially the same amount of light.
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Watch this video. I got a light meter and that removes any bias I might have about what's brighter. Once a meter starts measuring light output, you are dealing with hard facts instead of the human eye. Amps, total watts used to produce the light, brightness for the number of same size LED elements...the XHP70.2 always wins!
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Notice that the XHP160 AT 6 volts is smoking and the XHP70.2 is running just fine.
ruclips.net/video/ZyS1h21jL_Y/видео.html
@@de-bodgery thats a wrong assumption again. if you meassure stuff you should know how far the results are representing real life. i can have a kW IR LED or multi kW deep red LED, sure the LED CAN be bright on a teststand for the meter, but this is absolutelly useless if the lightoutput or more precise the spectrum is not alligned with the human eyes peak sensitivity.
human eye "perceived" brightness CAN be way more important than a value a meter shows, you are right in that it is a real number, but we use light so that WE, with or EYES can see, not so just generate a big number that in some cases is meaningless.
Yeah it's brighter.
@@leoost6322 yes completely agreed with you. How we see is more important. Even I prefer yellowish light. Another things is the video is not capture at fix exposure. You can see the "auto ecplosure" adjustment when light switching . which camera will "auto" adjust to "optimal " brightness, in this video very fast the adjust did. and of cause we will see the brightness on very similar level. But your work appreciated
@@de-bodgery I teach mathematics and I think that you can be right in the numerical tests with the meters, that both leds will produce the same amount of light. But the fact is that we humans who see with our natural eyes are interested in seeing everything more clearly, and it doesn't matter if the Chinese leds produce more blue light or not, but it looks better in the dark. We are not talking about protecting your eyesight or seeing the Sun directly, what you want with a flashlight of this type is that it illuminates more, and our eyes do not care if it is blue light from below, or ultraviolet or yellow, the question is How do our eyes see better? With white light, and the brighter the better, and that's what you see in the video that you made yourself. Since one LED uses more energy than the other is a separate factor, a real experiment would have to be done on how long is the useful life of a Chinese LED, although they say that 50,000 hours pass! But these did not detect the fact in the experiments, to see how long a continuously lit XHP160 led would last versus a CREE XHP70.2.
Actually you just proved that the Chinese XHP160 is much brighter. So obvious as well.
It's amazing HOW people like you come out of the woodwork! I didn't look at the metrics for your watching of this video. I'm going to assume that you skipped around a lot and that you didn't watch everything and certainly NOT the follow up videos to this one...where it become abundantly obvious just HOW shitty this Chinese LED is! Like it wasn't already VERY clear from this video!
I have to ask. Which part of more than DOUBLE the current for nearly the same amount of light don't you get? For battery powered devices, HOW LONG you can run from battery is critical! You very likely have a smart phone. Would you be happy with 1-2 hours of use when you could have 10-20 hours of use on your phone? This is NOT different! The XHP160 is a gas hog compared to the XHP70.2! To make the same amount of light it needs MORE THAN DOUBLE the current to do it! That means your flashlight batteries last LESS THAN HALF AS LONG as they would when powering an XHP70.2!!!
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Feel free to keep your simplistic and illogical point of view! I'll keep using legit CREE LEDs and more than doubling my battery run time!
Was thinking about getting an imalent ms18 but they cost so much. I'm a bit of a techy tweaker so im thinking of buying some of those cree leds and fitting them into a flashlight housing. Good video but the comment section was more entertaining. Watching you get all riled up at these youTube Trolls. LOL shit is hilarious😆
I've moved on, but yeah show people how good CREE is and they just don't get it and still make dumb claims about the Chinese garbage being "as good as" or "better than". UHUH...sure it is! I use Chinese made lights as hosts for CREE products. It's a great way to make a proper good light!
xhp70 wins on 2 batt version
The Cree destroyed the 160? Seriously? As far as light output I surely wouldn't say the Cree was better if anything the 160 won in my eyes. I guess if your intentionally trying to destroy a led the Cree would win but who does that? If you gave me two identical flashlights with each of the LED's Id pick xhp160. If I was going down to the barn I'd take the 160 every time. If I was going into the woods for a week I might consider the Cree but I'd probably just bring extra batteries and take the 160. I've showed several people this video and they all said the same thing. None of us are flash light experts but our eyes seem to agree. I suppose in certain applications the Cree maybe better but normal use in a flashlight the 160 is my choice and it was your video that made the decision for me. Maybe it's the camera and I don't see it I don't know but saying one destroyed the other is almost laughable and I'd say the majority would agree. You said they cost was about the same so I see no real advantage in price. I'm also not crazy about China but I'm not going distort reality over it. I appreciate the video and I apologize if I sound like a A$$
You amongst many many many other people who have never done any actual testing are steadfast in your opinions that are NOT based in actual facts. I on the other hand have tested CREE and Chinese LEDs a fair bit and so my point of view is based in observation and actual measurements. What I suggest is that you watch this video without skipping around...start to finish! Then watch this video without skipping around. The XHP160 is a piss poor light producer!!! I've made a few more videos on the XHP160. It's a steaming turd!
ruclips.net/video/ZyS1h21jL_Y/видео.html
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Over watting LEDs...LOL! I do this to ALL CREE LEDs and never to Chinese LEDs. CREE LEDs handle this just fine and make loads more light for a small bump in wattage. Chinese LEDs just die!
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You are more than welcome to carry twice as many spare batteries than I will carry. If you have ever gone back packing or caving. Weight and extra stuff is always a concern. You want to be as light and lean as possible so you don't carry more stuff than you need! There's simply NO WAY I'd use a Chinese light in those scenarios!
@@de-bodgery You should really stop looking directly into your flashlights because it's ruined your vision. I have EYES and that's truly all that matters. Yeah I've done no testing at all perhaps. You should modify in your description so people that don't have experience or people with opinions cant reply. Clearly you didn't read everything I said or you wouldn't have been so butt hurt over it. Maybe one day I can be a flashlight god like you so I can tell people what opinion they can have. You sound like one of those people that wins minimally and runs around I destroyed you. Way to promote your channel I'm sure you'll go far and I won't be back!
@@jameshitch5041
NOT butt hurt and I did read all you wrote. It is WHY I posted what I posted!
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The important detail here is that you haven't done any actual testing and I have. I spent my time and money to get real test tools, real power supplies and real CREE LEDS vs their Chinese counterparts. I'm no "flashlight god" or some other stupid title. All I did was do actual testing so that I was basing what I say on facts instead of opinions. Even then, my testing is far from fantastic. There is tons of room for improvement! In these videos you will some of them...like a legit light meter.
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There is no ego in this for me, just experience and actual testing. People can believe whatever they like. My choice is to make videos based on practical testing and real world comparisons between real CREE LEDS and the Chinese LEDs so that when I say something it is factual. While making them, I make mistakes, say stuff wrong, learn from my mistakes and so on. I do so without apology or desire to impress anyone. My videos are created with the desire to help the people that don't know better or just want to learn. I literally get nothing out of my efforts beyond the satisfaction that I did the work needed to prove a specific point.
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What I can tell you is that CREE LEDs always destroy the Chinese LEDs in every way. They always make more light and do it with much LESS current draw.
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Did you watch that other video I posted? You will notice a clamp on amp meter and a legit light meter. No staring into flashlights involved! I want what I present to be factual and NOT opinion. Too many times people post like you did with opinions and not actual test results. I bet I've heard it a hundred times. "My Chinese flashlight is...blah blah blah". So I've bought a few of them and found out. Go look at my videos! You will see me take them apart, look over the components, check out the LED, etc. I have yet to find a Chinese light that is better than one based on a CREE LED. They are cheap...I'll give you that...and they always under perform!
@@de-bodgery You seem to NOT understand at all. I'm not going to watch another of your videos so you can tell me what I see with my eyes. With my eyes and most peoples eyes think the 160 is brighter. You can actually see it with your eyes in your video. Since you said yourself they are both similarly priced so cost isn't even a part of equation. How do I in any way benefit by trying to tell you one is brighter then the other? Lets go by your opinion ok the CREE is brighter so did it destroy the 160? No it didnt and I'm sure 99% of the people would agree. That's the first issue I have. NO! it did not and I'm just talking about light output right now. You act as if the 160 is a15 year flashlight comparison.. Like I said before the 160 looks brighter to me which is the most important but others as well. I bet the majority of people say the same thing and I think you'll find very few people that would say it was destroyed by the cree. I have no idea about the reliability of it but would tend to agree for the long haul the cree may very well be the better one in that category. The only evidence you have provided is intentionally burning it up. How is that evidence of factual proof of reliability? I guess ramping up voltage past its ability to handle it the cree won. Who does that? Yeah people do it but not that far because inevitable it will burn up or drastically shorten the life. I refuse to accept data from your test showing one burns up faster past specs as factual proof one will out last the other. That's absolutely silly talk. It might indicate one will last longer but certainly NOT proof of it. I like the test you did. I don't think you could have made any fairer test showing output. The bottom line is the 160 looked brighter to me in your testing and others. You have failed to show me any factual tangible evidence that one is more reliable then the other even though I'd tend to agree the cree being a better option in that category. Your caught up in the name of the led and clearly biased against the Chinese version. Pretend they have different names or something. I also said this before in my first response if I'm walking to the barn at night I like the 160 but if I was going into the woods for the week I'd consider the cree. If you give me a light that has 6000 lumens and another with a 1000 and I can see better with the 1000 all testing in the world and factual data means nothing if I can see better . It really is that simple. Your totally missing the point in all this and clearly nothing I say is going to change that.
I prefer measurements and facts. I'll keep publishing facts despite the opinions of those that don't know better!
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To be perfectly honest...I'd like to change my tune! I'd LOVE to find a Chinese LED that actually competes with CREE LEDs. Still waiting, but I seriously doubt it exists or ever will.
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Over watting CREE LEDs is a long term hobby of mine! I've been doing it since 2015 and so far not a single one has burned out. I can't tell you how many lights I have made for others with over watted CREE LED's in them. This is simply NOT a problem I remotely concern myself with!
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I ran that XHP160 at 6v and it was smoking! HOW did I burn it up AT its rated voltage?! So far I have yet to read where you say anything factual. It's all subjective and opinions. When I over watted the XHP160 it was to prove the point that you can't over watt Chinese LED's! On camera, I over watted a CREE XHP70.2 LED and proved it is quite doable! I really suggest that you watch the whole video so you are speaking from actual context and facts of why I did what I did.
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Soooo....double the amperage, 4X MORE LED elements and the SAME amount of light isn't compelling evidence of how shitty the Chinese LED is? How about smokes and burns up AT it's rated voltage? If that's not enough, what is? You really should watch the videos instead of closing your mind to the facts!!! I can't lay it out for you more clearly! The facts are Chinese LEDs are poor performers and CREE LEDs are great performers!
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"See better" that is highly subjective! If that works for you...fantastic. Lumens, amps, voltage...they are VERY factual and anyone can duplicate or refute those measurements with the right tools! Again...I'll stick to facts and measurements which anyone can duplicate!!! I can't see through your eyes and frankly no one can but you.
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I believe what you are referring to when you say "see better" is the color of the light, not the lumens. 1000 lumens at 4300K makes just as much light as 1000 lumens at 5600K. A typical light meter won't be able to tell a difference in the brightness. All life on this planet with eyes are best suited for 4300K light. This is the light our sun makes. Most Chinese LEDs are in the 5000-5600K range and they contain far more UV light than does 4300K. This is why Chinese LEDS make bluish light. You may have retina issues that keeps you from seeing lower frequency light. This would explain your "see better" statement. If that is the case, then CREE makes 5600K LEDs that will be FAR BETTER than those Chinese lights!
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I think what you should do is post your email address so I can reach you directly. That way we can get you a proper good CREE based light that works best with your eyes. The LEDs I tend to use are all 4300K and that doesn't work for your eyes so well since there is an abundance of yellow light. It seems you need more bluish light to see well. Are you color blind by chance? Can't see yellow?
Sir, you are ranting about China but even those "Cree" are made in China. You just don't have a clue about anything, it seems.
Feel free to actually watch my LED videos so you can make an actual assessment based on my content and what I present. If you conclude as you did, then you clearly don't know what I present in this video series and therefore your comment is irrelevant since it isn't based in facts beyond a 2 second assessment.
@@de-bodgeryFact: Cree XHP 70.2 and XHP are both made in China. Another fact is both are different chipsets, therefore different requirements. Next fact is your XHP70.2 is yellow, the XHP160 is white.
Conclusion: Your test shows that the XHP160 has more lumen with less power, therefore it is more white.
Your comment shows you just hate China Product but your whole desk is full of China Products.
You Sir, are a joke. Period.
@@de-bodgery why hiding his answer, Kevin?
@@High-Performance-IQ If I report a posting, it is becasue it is porn or some other inappropriate content. I hide no ones posts. I might think what they say is stupid or wrong or biased or non-factual, but that is not going to cause me to "hide" what they say. Look above what Bernd Wilde said...he had obviously NOT watched any of my LED videos or else his opinion would have been based in facts instead of his bias which is not factual.
He has clearly no idea how a LED works, need to understand what negative temperature coefficient is.
He successfully destroyed a perfectly good LED.
Who is this "he" you refer to?
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The point was to show these LEDs and their capabilities right up to destructive limits and as expected the CREE LED out performed the Chinese LED. If you are complaining about destroying an LED, well that was the point...and CREE won yet again! Never mind you missed the fact that the CREE LED is easily 200% more efficient than the Chinese LED for nearly the same amount of light output.
@@de-bodgery the crew is 200% more efficient? In what case? Against a destroyed Chinese one? Good job. Maybe hit the XHP160 with a Hammer a few times, then the Cree is infinitely more efficient.
Jokes aside.
If one buys an XHP70 and a let’s say LZ7…
The XHP has 4 big Dies, the LZ7 7 smaller ones. Now one purposely overloaded the LEDs, both from prominent brands by the way, one could expect the LZ7 to get hit harder because of the construction, in fact the LZ7 would die sooner. But if we look at the slope of efficiency the LZ7 would win and beat the crap out of the XHP70. Same story in your test, the only thing you show is that the XHP70 dies can handle a bit more , ONLY SHORT TERM , abuse.
This has meaningful value to anyone besides one who designes a strobe, but even then the test you did was a way too low frequency at a high dutycycle.
Pure scientific question of :
Eh I want to buy an led torch, should I buy one using XHP160 or XHP70?
That question is not answered at all by you.
Reading your answers to some comments you imply you had answered exactly that question.
That would be the same as one buying a Nokia3310 and an iPhone 13 pro max ultra super blah, hitting both phones with a falling stone on the screen and saying the iPhone is trash, the Nokia is a way better phone in every aspect.
@@gtm3617 why would anyone want a larger die with more leds if it has less overall output
people buy shit with "XHP160"'s etc because they want more output, not efficiency at low power, they want more at full output
the XHP70 in this video was nowhere near it's max power, and it still was brighter than the XHP160 at double the power, that is in my mind embarrassing
that equals to about 70 lumen per watt, if the XHP70.2 is 150 lumen per watt, the XHP70's can take up to 29W
that is absolute horseshit.
if it was infact by being overdriven it would've atleast been brighter for a sec or two till it reached it's thermal limit, atleast thats how all overdriven leds reacted in my testing
i think it's just a garbage led in this case
whole testing is bullshit, you dont understand the concept of an LED, maybe you should do some homework and first find out what is the problem when you power one LED at half the power of the other and expect them to perform the same, thats stupid.
if you want to rely on fackts please correct your testing process. a hint: look up LED-drivers, they are CC, not CV. same way as you charge a LIPO in CC-CV mode and not only CV despite it says 11.1v on the label.
YOU ARE MORE THAN WELCOME TO DO YOUR OWN TESTING! STOP TEARING DOWN WHAT OTHERS HAVE DONE WITH YOUR CRITICAL, ATTACKING AND ARROGANT APPROACH! HOW ABOUT YOU PRODUCE REAL VIDEOS OF VALUE? I'VE GOT 31 ALREADY ON LEDS. WHAT DO YOU HAVE? OHHH THAT'S RIGHT...NOTHING! YOU LITERALLY HAVE 1 VIDEO AND IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LEDS IN ANY WAY! I HAVE MADE 31 ON LEDS AND HUNDREDS ON ALL SORTS OF TOPICS THAT ARE EV RELATED. I'LL STICK WITH MY EFFORTS SINCE YOU TOTALLY LACK CREDIBILITY!
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I ALREADY KNOW HOW LED DRIVERS WORK. WHAT I CAN ALSO TELL YOU IS THAT AS YOU INCREASE THE VOLTAGE, THE LED WILL ALSO TAKE MORE CURRENT. I LET THE LED TAKE WHATEVER IT CAN GET FROM THE POWER SOURCE. THIS IS SUFFICIENT TO TEST AN OVER WATTED LED AND TO RUN THEM LONG TERM. I'M RUNNING LED HEAD LIGHTS I MADE FROM XHP70.2 OR XML2 LEDS THAT ARE OVER WATTED FOR MANY YEARS NOW. THEY HAVE NEVER SEEN "CONSTANT CURRENT", JUST WHATEVER THEY CAN GET FROM THE POWER SOURCE. THIS WORKS JUST FINE. THE PROOF IS IN THE LONGEVITY OF THE LIGHTS I MAKE!!!
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I DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE DONE OR NOT DONE SINCE THERE IS ZERO EVIDENCE OF ANY LED WORK ON YOUR PART. I'M WELL INTO 30 OR 40 LED HEAD LIGHTS I'VE MADE FOR MYSELF OR OTHERS. YOUR CRITICALITY AND TOTAL LACK OF WORK SHOWS ME THAT YOU ARE ONLY RIGHT IN THEORY, BUT IN REAL WORLD USE, YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING.
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FOR FUTURE REFERENCE, STOP BEING CRITICAL AND ARROGANT! INSTEAD, PRESENT YOUR RESERVATIONS AND REASONS WHY WITHOUT ATTACKING THE PERSON. MANY OF THE LED VIDEOS I HAVE MADE WERE BECAUSE PEOPLE HAD QUESTIONS AND ASKED THEM OR THEY CHALLENGED MY ASSUMPTIONS WITHOUT ATTACKING ME. AS A RESULT, I WENT FURTHER TO TEST IF I WAS RIGHT OR WRONG. YOU ARE BEING A DICK AND ATTACKING ME. YOUR APPROACH DOES NOTHING BUT MAKE PEOPLE DISLIKE YOU! EXACTLY AS I FEEL ABOUT YOU RIGHT NOW. FIGURE THIS OUT AND YOU WILL GET LOTS BETTER RESULTS. AS IS, I'M JUST GOING TO IGNORE YOU AFTER THIS POSTING!
@@de-bodgery man please stop capslock, thats hilarious.....
if you think you did it right than please tell me, why are LEDs CC driven and not CV?
@@de-bodgery deleted comments proovin you wrong? nice job, so credible
@@leoost6322 I deleted nothing and you are still an arrogant and critical deuchbag!
Leds are only rated for a specific amount of current, it's bad to go over their rated current, and as they heat up their resistance will decrease and so the current will increase when being CV driven.
Good review but Dumb idea. Cree is also Chinese Led !!!
What you don't understand is the difference. One is manufactured in China by China and according to common Chinese cost cutting and manufacturing short cuts. The other (CREE) while manufactured in China, is made to western standards and not cutting corners! This is a critically IMPORTANT difference! Thinkpad laptops are manufactured in China and yet they are built to western standards! As a result they are not crap despite being made in China! This is a well known difference across many product types!!! Your comment is spurious and not thought out at all! Try thinking before you make dumb comments like this!
so what about a lux meter so you can really tell the differences lol
Did that...keep watching