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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- JLCPCB PCBs for $2 & SMT assembly service: jlcpcb.com/
Thanks to Chris Ward: solderking.com/
BT383 Lux Meter: bit.ly/32GDcMh
Project Files: sdgelectronics...
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Soldering Tools and Equipment:
Solder Paste: bit.ly/2E1P5jR
Solder Flux: bit.ly/2MQn7we
Quick 857DW+ Hot Air Station: bit.ly/2OWDvf4
T12 Soldering Station: www.banggood.c...
AC Version: www.banggood.c...
T12 Iron Tips: www.banggood.c...
Daniu Tip Cleaner: bit.ly/31VHwWM
KSGER T12-BCM3 Tip: bit.ly/2xgYXCQ
Test Equipment:
Mustool MDS8207 Multimeter: bit.ly/2kKHr7A
FY6900 Generator: bit.ly/2yZI40n
Differential Probe: bit.ly/31xNTOF
Microscope Equipment:
Eakins Barlow Lenses: bit.ly/3aBY5tR
Eakins Black Microscope: bit.ly/2VEcYaW
Eakins Camera Microscope: bit.ly/2x86hnT
Camera Adaptor for Microscopes: bit.ly/2KBZQMQ
Amscope Microscope Head (US): amzn.to/2YmZWNx
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (US): amzn.to/2YdBE8k
Amscope Trinocular Microscope (UK): amzn.to/2V8w9Gh
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope US: amzn.to/2VLWEpb
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope UK: amzn.to/2GYGYFV
Visit my website: www.sdgelectro...
#led #ringlight #cree #ElectronicsCreators
You have the best bright LED design channel
I was fully expecting those boards to be cleaned with brake cleaner. :D
I've got 36 cans in the garage 😂
Those LED modules are beautiful Steve. Really great work there finding and choosing the right ones. And those domes are so soft. Then you added those huge heat sinks. Its going to be fantastic!
Looks really good. I'm really picky when it come to the color of light I use and those LEDs you picked are just perfect. They would even be good just for use over the bench.
I think you're looking bit deflection of the router bit. At the end of cut the pressure on the bit is released and it springs back or at the beginning of the cut there can be a bit of wobble as the bit plunges into the material. All of this can be compensated for by programmed path, tool compensation, entry point (plunge), retract point, and direction of cut. In this case the plunge and retract could have been made in the waste area, leaving a clean profile of the part.
Deflection of the bit, or deflection of the workpiece? My understanding is that to keep the cost down, with these small prototyping PCB designers it's made as one much larger PCB with multiple customer's designs on it.
At least that's what EEVBlog Dave said recently, and why they have such fiddly requirements for all manner of spacing ( could effect other designs on the board ).
Wouldn't such a large design have a tendency for flexure? It seems like it would be hard to uniformly secure it without risking damaging the designs.
You'd think vacuum but then you're going and drilling a bunch of holes in it.
Fibreglass is quite flexible at that thickness...
Would have been nice to have a graph made using the luxmeter of the current vs brightness. The camera seems to compensate for brightness change. Maybe when it's all fully assembled...
Good project!
Great video as always.. Love seeing our solder pastes being used.
It is worth investing in a PCB nibbler for de paneling, about 13 quid from ebay :)
Excellent work, I will be making one of these. Very interested in the extractor you showed too 🏴👍 thank you
Very nice results there Steve 👍
Looking fwd to the Quick review too if you get time for that.
Cheers mate
John
The trick with a hotplate is to set it to the soak temperature and put some scrap pcb borders under the edges of your pcb, then a gentle waft of hot air is all that is required :) The reason for the packing is to stop the hotplate sinking the hot air heat away.
I always love to watch your videos.
For making the PCB panel smaller (and cheaper) you can connect the PCBs to each other, without spacing between them. This is how we our panels are made (not by JLCPCB tho) for asynchorious motor breaks and the size is just slightly bigger than those of your led pcbs, around 5x7mm. The panel does not seem like too fragile, tho our pcb manufacturer is few hours away, so there is not much transporting either. It makes it easier to break by hand, but I just do it with flat pliers and use a pocket knife to cleap up the edge.
If you're afraid of the panel not being strong enough you can always give it solid edges to strengthen things a bit again
Great looking lights...cheers!
Good job, I like it
Going to copy and paste a conversation regarding LEDs, custom circuit boards, and modifying LED light fixtures in regards to Cutting Edge UVLED technology. You might find this quite boring but you might find it really interesting! It’s the golden age of technology! And coronavirus has brought a lot of amazing and fast changes to the UVC led industry.
Here’s my pasted article....
A single or triple convoy host with UVC LEDs inside would be extremely useful! But would take several minutes to have any sanitizing effects.
It would need to be a large array of UVC LEDs to reach the optical power needed for sanitizing. If you look up a video on Adafruit‘s RUclips channel a few months ago they tested UVC LEDs and they had a really large array. I think it was 5 x 5 or maybe 10 x 10 UVC chips chips. Probably a $1000 array.... And they show how much optical output it gives. Super short and interesting video I highly recommend.
Right now the cheap Chinese chips only offer 3-5mw optical output on average and the nicer Chinese chips maybe up to 20 mW. But at that point you’re better off buying the high output 30-50mw nichia Chips.
I remember a few years ago my 1.2Watt output green laser filled up a small 10 x 10‘ room with electronics and optical equipment. Costing upwards of $5000. But Now.... i’ve built several 1.5 WATT OPTICAL OUTPUT green lasers that fit into a small handheld laser pointer and run on a single 18650 battery. Costing under $100 to build. It’s the golden age of electronics… What a Time to be alive!
Until UVC leds reach 500 mW per LED chip… it won’t be viable for large manufacturing and sanitization like used in water treatment plants and sterilization processes in industry. Which are actually pretty common in all types of industry. Tons of different industries and factories have UVC light used for treating or curing or some other use.
And when UVC LEDs become powerful enough to replace the standard bulbs in tubes… That will save shit tons of energy!
The only good thing about coronavirus… The coronavirus is solely responsible for the fast evolving UVCLED technology. Before the coronavirus… Even January of last year… You couldn’t even buy a UVCLED online. The only place I could find wanted me to send all types of business and licensing documents with my tax ID number and everything. Now there are real UVC leds that are as cheap as one dollar each. Of course these aren’t the good ones but still…and high output brand name leds are only $20.
That’s freaking insane considering they were completely unattainable before six months ago.
Not sure if you knew this already but here’s Something to look out for… this is an easy way to identify genuine UVC LEDs that actually put out UVC light. -
Real UVC LEDs will always have a purple/gray ceramic housing, with heavy gold plating covering any metal, and a quartz or sapphire window. Because UVC is blocked by glass or other materials..... therefore it has to be quartz or sapphire. If you look up real UVC LEDs then you’ll see what I mean. They all look the same and They all have that gold plating everywhere with the nice purplish gray ceramic body. Very similar look to Vintage IC chips that had beautiful purple ceramic bodies and gold plated pins and caps.
If you’ve never seen what I’m talking about… then please take a second to check out these 4 links. Hell its like electronics porn. Just Beautiful…! Sex on a stick!
www.google.com/search?q=purple+gold+ic+chip&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=sinv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiY4JLdmbXsAhVGvFkKHTMoBYkQ_AUoAnoECAgQAg&biw=414&bih=622&dpr=3#imgrc=RTX1st5lL-ZABM&imgdii=Zcq0VJJb9uK0JM
www.google.com/search?q=gold+ic+chip+Beautiful&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiAg4jsmbXsAhWKmVkKHdBWBLAQ_AUoAXoECBMQAQ&biw=414&bih=622&dpr=3#imgrc=Oza7GmtLzvckkM
www.google.com/search?q=gold+ic+chip+Beautiful&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiAg4jsmbXsAhWKmVkKHdBWBLAQ_AUoAXoECBMQAQ&biw=414&bih=622&dpr=3#imgrc=DTqi5yVnySlCkM
www.google.com/search?q=white+gold+traces+ic+chip&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=isnv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiIqsa1mrXsAhVkrlkKHXGRACoQ_AUoAXoECAgQAQ&biw=414&bih=622&dpr=3#imgrc=Gp_zyUEw8ENZJM
A plastic body UVC LED would be degraded and disintegrate by UVC light! therefore they have to be ceramic bodies, and sapphire windows. Even UVA and UVB light is really bad for any type of plastic or polymer. Therefore good quality 365nm LEDs will usually be ceramic and glass with gold plating. None of that plastic rubbish. Sure you can find 365 nm LEDs that have plastic bodies and the standard polymer coating over the top… But they will degrade quickly.
The Chinese UVC leds that are a few dollars each and sold in most of the products on Banggood and elsewhere are between 2-5mw light output each. Maximum I’ve seen is 20mw but they’re a little bit more expensive and I wouldn’t trust them. Like I said the nice brand name UVC LEDs with over 20mW optical output aren’t cheap but totally worth it! Ranging from $20 to upwards of $350 per LED. Highest output I’ve seen so far 70mW but it’s changing weekly. And they’re hard to find because everyone selling out of them quickly because of coronavirus. But once the pandemic ends, high-quality high power UVC LEDs will be cheap and readily available when demand goes down. And as bad as this virus is, I’m glad that it’s helping adVance the UVC technology.
The reason UVA, UVB, and UVC light is so useful and valuable is because it is absolutely one of the most important things used in all types of manufacturing, engineering, The medical field, and all types of science and study of biology and other important areas..
From curing finishes to doing spectroscopy and Gene therapy in the biology and medical community… UV light is so important. We wouldn’t be where we are today without it.
I got into UV light for completely other reasons. I build and restore guitars and antique violins… as well as the other half of my business which is industrial circuit electronics repair and calibration work on process control equipment for assembly lines and electronics and stuff like that…
So UVA, UVB, and UVC light are all very useful in spotting flaws on circuit boards, cracks in traces and solder pads, and most extremely useful in the woodworking and guitar industry for spotting repairs or flaws in the woodwork and finish. Each wavelength is useful and I utilize as many wavelengths as possible.
You can’t imagine the usefulness of having UVA, UVB, and UVC lighting available to you. Whether you like to work on cars and motors, electronics, or do fine art restoration, science, biology, electronics, optics and laser…
whatever your hobby or business…UV light in all wavelengths is extremely valuable and you will find a million uses for it.
I’m also big into the laser and optics Hobby. Started with laser pointers and graduated to high end lab and Medical laser stuff which is available for pennies on the dollar out of retired military and health care uses on eBay. dirt cheap incredible stuff.
I have lasers that easily surpass 100 Watts of optical output and fit in the palm of your hand. That’s crazy insane power levels by the way. Like blasting right through steel sheet.
Laser modules that would’ve cost $20,000 when new that can be purchased on eBay for under 100 bucks! One hell of a time to be alive that’s for sure. It’s the golden age for everything!
Great project.
I am curious why you did not go with aluminum clad MCP pcb?
EDIT: Woops you said JLCPCB I was thinking you used PCBWAY. JLCPCB does not offer them but they are great for most other pcb.
Yes, sadly no MCPCB at JLCPCB, but I would expect these PCBs to behave better for transferring the heat to the heatsink
you should look at clough42 s pneumatic pcb depaneler, or just depanelers in general :)
Would you mind providing a link or part number for the lens?
CA14442_VERONICA-SQ-W is the part number from LEDiL. You can get them at Mouser and Digikey. Probably many other sources too.
can you please upload the updated gerber file? thank you
Nice video. Nice board, but why not use more vias over the entire area of the heatsink? I'm guessing that the thermal impedance of the vias is significantly higher than it needs to be. Using a thinner PCB is also a good way to reduce thermal impedance if the PCB manufacturer allows it without raising the cost (although it will take longer for them to build the PCBs).
The placement of the vias gives the maximum thermal conductivity to the heatsink. Placing more vias outside of that area offers very little benefit as the heat is naturally conducted sufficiently by the copper pad at that point. The 0.8mm PCB and via size should give the best results. There's some info in one of my earlier videos where one of the application notes from Cree was consulted. Thanks!
Hello, i wanna ask what would happens if i give 4.8A current to 6v xhp50.2 led? I need your help. Thank you 🙏
Why do you have a capacitor across the pod and negative leads? Does it function to even out the pwm? And how did you come to conclusion that that capacitor is a good fit for that led?
Yes it reduces the ripple current caused by the DC-DC converter which is driving it.
Do you have the spectrum for this light?
link for the lenses for the led
For such a "technical" light, what are the pros and cons of using cold white vs. warm white? Isn't the former "more accurate"?
If I can get something with decent CRI, around 5000K is ideal for the cameras. If you're not ever using a camera something warmer might be better.
Would be better if you put those CREE LED's on MPCB with copper( typically MPCB is based on aluminium) as a metal part for better heat dissipation. In your design heat might be having trouble to pass through those metallized holes under the die.
At 4.2 watts, will heat be enough of a problem so as to necessitate a copper MPCB?
@@Lauren_C At 4,2 watts it might not be a problem but driving XHP50.2 at those watagges is simply waste of money and LED potential.
Not really a waste of money, as these are still quite cost effective even at low power.
Links for the led please 🙏🏻
These ones were from Mouser, but available at many other places (check Octopart): XHP50B-00-0000-0D0UH250G is the part number.
Check my comment at #125: D2 and D3 can't clamp the voltage to 24V because D1 is blocking, so you can have higher voltages on that rail due to the inductances.
Shoulda used Nichia E21a 9080 4500k they have a 98 Cri
Wtf! I was subscribed to you I'm 100% sure but I was wondering what happened to your custom microscope LED light so I manually looked up your channel and since I have the option to subscribe to you somehow I must have been unsubscribed!? How? I am 100% sure that I didn't unsubscribe myself! 😳
What vacuum pen do you use? Or what were you using for component placement?
Details here: ruclips.net/video/1FnGqH_WkL4/видео.html
@@sdgelectronics Thank you Steve!
You said you are making a ring light! That's not a ring light :)
Adding breakout tabs on all 4 sides is a bad idea. Such arrangement tends to be difficult co break apart. I'd rather add a tab on each end of just 2 opposing sides.
It's only 0.8mm PCB so very little effort. I'll probably use a blade for the remaining PCBs
is that xhp50 3v or 6v version ?
6V version
@@sdgelectronics have you tried drive it harder ? i have mods 3v version xhp50.2 in a flashlight, with good batteries and fet driver it measure out almost 13amp at the tail.
I'm from India can you send these led to me
Sir I wanna know, that if my power led has forward voltage rating of 3.3v and current rating of 700ma. If I increase the voltage to 6v or 9v but keep the current constant to 700ma whether my led will be damaged or not or led life will reduced.
So long as the regulators are controlling current, it's fine. Standby for a video later this week with some different LEDs though
They are very poor performance Leds. I used thousands of them before. Extremely hot, power hungry, poor light quality and expensive