i dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Bishop Karson Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
probably the best sbc 350 video ive seen in years. im not looking for a ton of power. my suburban isnt a race car, i just want a little help getting on the highway when the acceleration lane is up hill lol
Almost retired 59 years old got a cougar 69 convertible weather Windsor learned a lot from you I feel trying to push about $500 and I'll be happy thanks for the info
Only catch to those L98 shortblocks is that many came with dished pistons so even with 64cc combustion chambers the CR is ~9.5:1 which is on the low side for a performance application with aluminum heads.
There is alot of confusion, maybe even misconception on cam shafts. big cams has little down low, where small cams has less up top, cams should be specced to the engine. For example, a friend of mine has a vw jetta mk2, I live in south africa so little to no v8's here, he has a n/a 2.0 8v single cam from a vw golf mk3 gti. stock bottom end, stock u flow head(its a 2e engine, not a aba that has a crossflow head) what he did is port out the ports as big as they could go but kept stock valves and everything, then still has the same carb and intake found on all carb vw engines from that era. he has a cheap extractor and freeflow exhaust, just some tuning. He was talking about doing a 288 cam on it, but this setup is only good for max 7000rpm if youre lucky, the low end would be crappy, so wil driveability be too. id rather go with a smaller cam, like a 272 or a 276, but id junk his beloved vw carb and go with fi or a much larger carb. Making power on a engine is all about relieving bottle necks, but not many everyday guys understands this.
Did you guys notice Richard beat the crap out of the heavy bag he had sstacked against the treee at the end of the video....Dont miss with this man!!! LOve the videos, keep them coming. I bought the best heads I could afford and kept improving my cams to catch up!!
I always appreciate the good old SBC builds seeing that it's been my engine of choice for longer than I care to recount. I also appreciate the observation regarding the cylinder head vs camshaft as illustrated by the LS3 comparison. What I would like to see (as a bit of a follow up to what appeared in one magazine with T&L/Vizard many years back) was the SBC with too small a cylinder head, too low a CR and cam much larger than you might expect. Seems to me that was an interesting result and one that you might not have expected. Sort of like a 170cc head on a 383 with less than 10:1 but a 236@.050" cam spec. Enjoying the videos Mr H. It's also been interesting to be re-reading my old issues of Engine Masters magazine and seeing your name on the mast head (who knew?). Getting reading for another SBC build here.
Great information on the 350 small block power upgrades. I was surprised that you had to change the valve springs on the CNC heads. I guess that folks should make sure that the springs on their heads will work with their cam. I've seen where some heads come with different spring rates. I look forward to watching your other videos. Great video content, thanks for sharing!
Another great, thorough video.... I know you've done some mopar stuff lately and we really appreciate that... How about doing something like this with with a 360? Like compare a stock 360 to one with a good cam, intake and heads, then stroke it out to 408 and see exactly how much more you get from that. A lot of us build 408's but it would be interesting to see how much more a 408 is to a similarly built 360...... Thanks!
Richard, awesome videos. The more and more I watch these videos, the more I think of getting rid of my Vic Jr single plane intake. Long story short, was told ( builder) that my 383 SBC, 10.5:1 , 195 AFRs, .577 lift cam, 232/236 @.050"- 108 LSA, would not like the Air gap rpm. Car runs awesome, but know can't stop wondering if I'm missing out!
@@richardholdener1727 yes, seeing that now. I honestly feel the low end torque gain is alot more beneficial to me than the 5000 plus rpm HP gain. Thanks again for all the info!
That's very good to know how the valve springs helped power in the entire rpm curve rather than just at high rpm. Goes to show the wrong spring rate on a lobe will affect spring performance at all rpm range. I remember years ago having this conversation with cam manufacturers. Even if the rpm range of your fireball cam wasn't much more than stock, stock springs would not work with it.
@@richardholdener1727 This is what's happening to my marine motor: 190cc inexpensive heads on a 383, CompC XM276HR, full roller, but not making more than about 335hp according to my speed...I'm buying CompCam Beehive springs today and going with the Hurricane Single plane intake as well...currently running the Weiand Dual plane Street Warrior & a Holley 670vs...also going with a Holley 770vs Marine Avenger. Stuck on suggested ignition timing: at 35 max at the moment, but other 93 octane runners that I talk too are going 37-38. Thoughts? No, there's no engine dyno within 100 miles of me :(
Very good video! I used a performer rpm cam with Victor Jr intake on my 73 camaro L82 m22 rock crusher and 3.73 posi rear. It ran awesome in the quarter mile! 12.92 @ 109mph was my best but I only had 26 inch tall tires. It may have been a bit faster with a taller tire. This info is great!
Bet you thats where those heads stop flowing at. Usually those cheap heads ahve a tough time flowing any more air past .500 lift. The new AFR enforcers cast heads are like that
Cool to see the 190 vs the 210 procomp dyno results, I would of expected more down low out of the 190. I know other brand heads dyno better down low but from these results I wouldn't bother with the procomp/speedmaster 190's. Thanks for sharing!
I’m sure the 190’s would benefit from some basic port work, but for a few dollars more you could get a head that flows more out of the box, so why bother with the speed master heads.
I'd LOVE to see a really aggressive lobed cam like the comp QXI / QXE lobes or even a solid roller lobe. -A dyno test highlighting the trade-off between aggressive lobes: longevity and valve train costs vs. power. -With the big port volume and flow for the cubic inches and RPM, getting that valve open fast and far would've helped produce more power, especially if you already had to buy new springs. The flat tappets like the Comp XE lobes are essentially as aggressive as a typical hydraulic roller cam (compare the Comp flat tappet and hydraulic roller lobes to one-another; they're both called "XE" for a reason as they're basically the same lobes); to get the benefits of a roller cam in a modern build we need roller cams that have lobes that are more like Solid Rollers. -The Comp XFI and especially the QXI lobes are "solid-roller (of old)-like". They need lightweight valves and retainers or really big springs and heavy thick pushrods, but they make the most of a roller cam. Torque is based upon the AMOUNT of flow in a GIVEN AREA. The difference between an "equally good" 210cc head and a 195cc head on 350/355 cubic inches wasn't really highlighted here. This was a much better 210cc head vs. a 195cc head: CFM per cross-sectional area of the two heads would show the issue. -I guarantee if you divide the max CFM of the 210cc / it's minimum and average CSA you end up with a higher number than if you divide the max CFM of the 195cc as-cast head in this test. -> Now do the same test on an AFR 23 deg head and you'll see that "average port speed" produces the most average torque and wins races on an NA motor. Heads should be sized for the motor based upon CSA, cubic inches and desired HP peak RPM; not port VOLUME.
For my driving style. I'd pick a cam in the 210 to 220 duration area. perhaps the AFR195 heads. Edelbrock Performer intake. Why you might ask, well I'd respond that with a shaker hood you gotta keep the height pretty close to stock . Even the performer intake is too high, but delete the thick intake to carb gasket and it kind of fits but remains too high. A low RPM cam that keeps good vacuu for your power brakes and A/C controls which are vacuum actuated. . As well as to keep fuel efficiency up. the long legged rear axle ratio runs at 2200 RPM at highway speed so you don't want a lot of cam killing torque off at these speeds. Its about a matched set.
I was just going to comment before you said it. The LS demonstrates the value of good heads at any power level. A lot of us balk at spending 1-2K or more on decent heads, but heads will define the motor.
I'll take the Edelbrock dual plane AirGap, budget CNC 210 heads and XE282 bumpstick. I think that's the Goldie Locks combo for a healthy street machine.
I’d love to see you do a 355,10:5:1,,with the edelbrock performer RPM package,with the hydraulic roller setup.wondering what kinda power that would make against what they advertise! Love your shows Richard,keep them coming!!
@@richardholdener1727 You proved that yesterday with the 351W. They claimed 410, you got 459 with a carb. On a 440 Mopar, they claim 482 hp, but I've heard it's over 500.
@@richardholdener1727 I'm certain that Edelbrock tests with their own carbs, but you and others use high end, chokeless Holleys. That may account for some of it. Or maybe they use either a more conservative dyno, or a more stringent SAE test standard.
I built a low buck 383 chinese 4340 rods china 200cc heads small 236/244 @.50 sr cam with rpm intake 10.5 to 1 compression and, it was a torque monster pushed 3660lb 4 door to 7.55 in 1/8 mile
Hi Richard , you've touched on this subject in the past claiming it to be " practically a myth" , how about a test on mis matched intake manifolds ranging from way to small for the head to way too big for the head to just right all on the same heads and manifold , keep up the testing and we'll keep up the watching
@@richardholdener1727 He means (I'm sure) an oval port intake on a rectangle head, or vice versa, or, like they did in the 70s, a factory Cobra Jet intake on a non-Cobra Jet motor. Check out Pat Ganahl's 40 yr old book Ford Performance for all the (obsolete) poop.
Yea, I'd love to see that, too! Mismatched intake AND exhaust ports. I've never seen it AB tested before. -Some folks claim that a smaller port on the intake side dumping into a larger head port can HELP torque / power especially when the heads are slighly over sized for the application. I've also heard some folks say that having a "step" mismatch from a D-port exhaust port in a head to a round header can act as anti-reversion and prop up low-end torque when using a big cam, but I've also heard the opposite, too -> that you want a D-port header on a D-port exhaust port to keep the velocity up to get the exhaust charge further from the cylinder and that THAT is better for anti-reversion.... -Can't be both! Other extreme exhaust port mismatch: Calvin Elston, one of the top 2 names in header design, says that when exhaust ports are way too big (Big Block Chevy as an extreme example) -he can make way more torque AND HP by having the header entry actually be SMALLER than the heads' exhaust port and that the increase in velocity is beneficial for reduced reversion that props up torque on the low end AND makes more HP on the high-end when sized appropriately because it gets velocity back where it should be. -Never seen any of this tested; just theoretical discussions.
@@richardholdener1727 Or even a "big port, small cam" engine approach vs. a "small port, big cam" approach to the same engine and HP GOAL. (Ex: If you build 400 or 450 HP 355 SBC with a 210cc port head and a smaller cam and you then swap to a 180cc port head on that same engine and cam it for the same 400 or 450 peak HP, what happens to the curve?)
@Whitey Powers they had marine versions up to 525hp. and they have a stronger bottom end than a 454. Raylar is the only game in town for aluminum heads so they can charge what they want. they probably have to charge a lot because they don't sell many. if the 8100 were more popular parts would be cheaper.
I’ve got a top kick deck ,tilt bed with a 427 that’s timed out . I’d like to do a larger displacement, low comp build with boost .... I think there’s a future in it .
@Whitey Powers the engine itself doesn't "suck for performance", just the price of the performance parts. I would really like to see what the gains would be with a larger towing/truck cam, as I feel most of us with an 8.1L would probably consider a cam of that type.
Really good info. As far as I'm concerned the second test just showing a valve spring change is most important. That lets everyone know buying new heads disney mean they are correct for your application.
the recipe for a cheap performance small block--invest in the short block. Get a good crank, rods, pistons, and balance it. Slap on cheap heads and intake. Drive and save up money for good heads and intake, since they can be installed next year without tearing engine apart.
Yessir Rich... Great information as always... I'm doing my 73 c10 350 as we speak brother and I needed these "cheat codes" lololol😆💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾... I was thinking about getting the speed master heads already
Great video, definitely learned a good bit. Here’s my situation, I recently inherited my grandfathers 1970 Chevy C10 LWB. I’m new to the restoring/rebuilding game but I want to do as much myself as possible, why, bc that’s how my grandfather did it. Here’s what I know, It doesn’t have the original 350 and I believe it’s out of either a Pontiac or a Buick... I get two different stories and my grandfather passed in 09 so I can’t go and ask him. I do know that is a 350 sb with a Quadrajet carb and it’s hooked to a turbo 350 trans. I know there’s a lot more to do than just the engine to get the power I want. I am on an extreme right budget (thanks wife) and I am giving up a brand new truck to make this my dream. If I have a budget of $1000 to get as much power and torque out of this engine... what do I get engine wise? Thanks for any help or guidance.
Great stuff again! Thanks Richard. My only gripe... I wouldn’t consider roller cams as “budget”. A hydraulic flat tappet would have been more appropriate maybe?
I agree, to a point: on a factory roller motor, you can use the original lifters (usually). But, yes, the cam itself is still $300. A quality HF cam AND lifters is $200. But the roller will make more power, so the extra $100 may be worth it. Your call.
Low gears (4.56) and a high stall (3,000 and up) I'd always take the cnc heads and single plane nanifold. Back it with a killer overdrive transmission (th2004r or 700r4) = nice street car and good bracket racer! Good info. Thanks for the video
Fast burn aluminum heads, there's not much for videos of dyno runs with these heads, would love too see like low buck 383 with these heads with different intake and carbs to see power numbers!!! Keep up the good work, Rich
I'd probably go with the bigger ports and the single-plane manifold for that top-end rush. This is sort of what I enjoy with my 1990 Miata, albeit on a much smaller scale. Seriously... in first gear, I can feel it pull harder once it gets past 4K rpm.
I wonder what kind of horsepower difference there is in a nitrous cam compared to a non nitrous cam with comparable specs and rpm range! Another great video! A lot more information than I expected! Awesome!!!
The dual planes should've been tested with the 270 cam....more appropriate match. The dual planes with the 282 cam were also a slight mismatch, but I was surprised how much better the RPM did vs the cheaper dual plane. I assumed the offshore intakes were exact duplicates of an RPM, without the logo.
When this dude said you in the pajamas I about shit myself cause I'm in my pajamas and I legit thought he was talking to me for a sec 😂 I may or may not have had a few drinks 😂😂😂
Have you looked at the gmpp large port vortex large valve heads from GM ? Cast iron , they offer a small and large port version . Cheap small block power.
For me it would largely come down to the difference in price on those heads. If it were only a few hundred bucks more for the CNC heads then that's what I would get. Now if they were $1000 more for the pair i'd stick with the as-cast. And i'd add to that the better driving cam, dual plane intake, etc. as i'd be building a street driver rather than a race car.
I would've done a forged 408, afr headed, larger cammed, 10.5-11.0 to 1 comp, single plane intake, carb spacer, and holley sniper throttle body injection...I don't do junkyard stuff
Sounds expensive but cool, but junkyard builds are usually inexpensive and fun without as much worrying about blowing it up, that's what makes them so cool!!
Great content as always. Maybe in the future do some Pure Stock/F.A.S.T. muscle car races engine stuff. I really like seeing stock "junk" pushed to the limit.
I have a 72 Nova with a "383" stroker supposedly but it has no power. The paint is nice and I don't want to mess it up by cutting a hole in it which a high rise intake would want to do. So if you can setup the best low intake setup for power that would be interesting on a budget as well and no budget thanks your videos are really entertaining and informative
NICE I own C10 355 balanced Offenhauser intake Edelbrock 650 RV cam Would be nice to see a video how to adjust valves engine off all eight cylinders stock rocker arms considering the fact that all these mechanic shops around here don't know how to adjust valves but are ase-certified
Take out all the plugs, rotate till piston on said cylinder is all the way up the bore, rockers should have play, set lash and move to the next cylinder, repeat till done.
@@theguru-s2l not for a hydraulic cam. Shouldn't have ANY lash. You turn the rocker nut until there's no play, but you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers. Then give it one half of a turn. That sets the preload on a hydraulic lifter.
I really wish we could have seen the real low buck combination of the vortec heads small cam and cheap intake. That way we know if we even needed the as cast heads.
another lower buck intake that u didnt use was the speedmaster air gap, certainly less expensive than the edelbrock, its identical in design, speedmaster also makews a single plane similar to edelbrock super victor with longer runners. another test maybe?
In your previous power curve Is the carbs Brawler series and the XP dominator Holley series know we're you talking about the XP dominator or was it the ultra XP or 3rd generation dominator love your shows very good learning and info
The ported 210 heads with the professional products single plane, and swap in some high comp pistons to get it up in the 12:1+ range and a e85 carb. Curious if that would crack the 500hp mark.
Rudy Hughes I built a 358 ci DIRT track engine (363ci) I ran a custom 750 4150 style carb on e85. Roller cam bearings, a 2.0” diameter crank journals and a custom crank with a 3.5” stroke versus 3.48. Distro is a MSD Pro billet with Taylor 409 10.4 mm wires. Dizzy has a adjustable collar because of the head and intake corrections. The heads are OEM GM aluminum that were angle milled. DART Little M block. Custom Bullet cam with firing order swap on 4 cylinders; all outboard intake lobes had a slightly longer duration to compensate for intake runner length. DART 2725 single plane intake port matched with heads; nothing fancy. Custom Cometic MLS head gaskets; HV Melling oil pump, stock fuel pump mounting, and water pump driven by belt off crank. I used Trend pushrods that were custom length with thicker walls. Brand name roller shaft & roller rockers with 1.5 rocker ratios topped it off. I’d have to dig out the build sheet to get the piston and rod spec’s. I haven’t touched this motor in 7 years - it sits in an engine cradle in my garage. I was 694 hp and around 550 tq on the Dyno. If there weren’t restrictions on that class I could have certainly gone higher.
@@jeffheld3971 sounds like a good bullet for a hot rod....from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY AND stop this foolishness ❤
Im very interested in the other guys engines, there is plenty engines with little to no aftermarket support, what can be done for a engine like that? Everybody knows a ls or 2jz can make 1000hp+ on boost, but what can be done with say a mopar slaunt six?
@@richardholdener1727 Yay!! Mopar stuff! I see guys run low 13s NA, and 11s on boost. Some say the best tip is to use the short stroke 170, which rev happily (my 63 Valiant has one), rather than the under square 225, a truck motor.
Richard Holdener I don’t know if anyone else is interested but the 292 and 300 straight 6 have interested me for a “something different” low buck swap choice. Seen a few turboed but the details were lacking
@@richardholdener1727 That would be great. Here n South Africa we have a chevy 4.1 straight six, is that the same engine as the 292 chevy you recently got from David Freiburger?
Alex West your absolutely wrong. If your spinning 56 pounds at 7k rpm compared to 42 pounds it takes way less energy to move it. I know this for a fact. I hope he makes a video now so I can laugh my ass off when your foots in your mouth.
Same here... I have a 300hp 406 small block with crap factory heads. And would love to see what heads and cams would do.. 3/4 ton 2wheel surburban so it's heavy and torque #'s would be essential...from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY AND stop this foolishness ❤
Hey Richard, could you inset sound clips on these cams that you use? Lots of people are interested in knowing what these cams sound like. Most people are interested in the sound as much as power!!!!
Thanks Richard. I wish there was a better way to show you how much we appreciate all that you do but for now here’s a HUGE shout out from NC!!!! Have you thought of a name for your cams? Here are some....... RH Cams or LS Cams by RH!!!
a test idea is comparing 350 sbc dual plane intakes with different spacers to the single plane to see if there is a combo that is a good compromise between low end dual planes and top end single planes
I would like to see the graph of a factory curve distributor verse re-curved. I know it wont change the top end power but I think gives that off the stop light kick in the ass. thanks in advance
Richard, have you ever done back/back testing of Rochester Qjet vs Holley vs Edelbrock? I've looked all over the 'tube and even done some decent google-fu and not seen that test data. Seems like it would be COMMON knowledge, but it doesn't appear to be. Pretty easy testing. Would be even better to see them back/back on a mild street/strip engine as well as a nice healthy one with good CNC heads, etc.
I’ve got a 92 GMC Yukon that has the SBC 5.7/350 with factory throttle body injection. Where I live, there is only safety inspection (no emissions). Can I make more power switching to a carb and will the factory “computer” allow it? I’m mainly looking for more torque for towing…..I don’t want to break the bank upgrading to some high end fuel injection systems. I’m going to have to rebuild the engine at some point (currently has 240K+ miles on it) where I’ll probably tweak the internals somewhat. Thanks!
For a dummy like me, it would be interesting to know something about the difference in idle quality (or more importantly, vacuum) and street driving manners between the cams you tested. Maybe you could talk Freiburger and Dulcich into doing something on RK Garage?
I have used single plane on a smaller intake runner and not have any noticalble difference on the street if the cam was mild enough. On bigger cams it does of course, or power throughout on the dyno but poor drivability due to lower cam vacuum characteristics on that wilder cam single plane. Some people in my opinion ( it jmo) try to band aid the wrong cam with dual plane and small carb. Not that all the single plane theory and rules are wrong ( and I'm not arguing them) , but just things I have noticed when I have had been short on funding and needed an intake for someone or my self, till we got what was right.
Trying to figure out a combo for a street driven, 3rd gen camaro that I can do a direct swap from a 305. Looking to make more than 325hp but not enough to blow up a 700r4. Suggestions?
Cheapest way to hot rod an engine...get a low mile truck block or invest in a forged slug short block, get it running, and then save up again for a good deal on heads, then save up again for a good deal on a power adder.
I would like to know what the compression ratio was for this test? And what octane would be required for this combination in a tow rig? Keep up the testing I'll keep watching.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Retired guy here. Thanks for giving me something cool to watch late at night after all the working stiffs are sawing logs.
Not all of us alot of us work graveyard shift
i dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Zaid Dakota instablaster :)
@Bishop Karson Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Bishop Karson It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
probably the best sbc 350 video ive seen in years. im not looking for a ton of power. my suburban isnt a race car, i just want a little help getting on the highway when the acceleration lane is up hill lol
Man I like this place. It’s a lot of fun . You go the range of $ - not just mega $ and not barring any new parts , but a good mix
More sbc stuff, thanks. Always like seeing how little changes move the numbers around
Almost retired 59 years old got a cougar 69 convertible weather Windsor learned a lot from you I feel trying to push about $500 and I'll be happy thanks for the info
Only catch to those L98 shortblocks is that many came with dished pistons so even with 64cc combustion chambers the CR is ~9.5:1 which is on the low side for a performance application with aluminum heads.
Edelbrock's RPM Power Package kits are designed for 9.5 to 1.
I’m glad you are spreading the word about good flowing heads Richard. To many guys try to crutch heads with a big ass cam.
There is alot of confusion, maybe even misconception on cam shafts. big cams has little down low, where small cams has less up top, cams should be specced to the engine.
For example, a friend of mine has a vw jetta mk2, I live in south africa so little to no v8's here, he has a n/a 2.0 8v single cam from a vw golf mk3 gti. stock bottom end, stock u flow head(its a 2e engine, not a aba that has a crossflow head) what he did is port out the ports as big as they could go but kept stock valves and everything, then still has the same carb and intake found on all carb vw engines from that era. he has a cheap extractor and freeflow exhaust, just some tuning. He was talking about doing a 288 cam on it, but this setup is only good for max 7000rpm if youre lucky, the low end would be crappy, so wil driveability be too. id rather go with a smaller cam, like a 272 or a 276, but id junk his beloved vw carb and go with fi or a much larger carb.
Making power on a engine is all about relieving bottle necks, but not many everyday guys understands this.
In the bad old days, that was all you could do, along with domed pistons, and spending big bucks to have your heads ported by hand.
Did you guys notice Richard beat the crap out of the heavy bag he had sstacked against the treee at the end of the video....Dont miss with this man!!! LOve the videos, keep them coming. I bought the best heads I could afford and kept improving my cams to catch up!!
Yeah I did....the bag always wins!
I always appreciate the good old SBC builds seeing that it's been my engine of choice for longer than I care to recount. I also appreciate the observation regarding the cylinder head vs camshaft as illustrated by the LS3 comparison. What I would like to see (as a bit of a follow up to what appeared in one magazine with T&L/Vizard many years back) was the SBC with too small a cylinder head, too low a CR and cam much larger than you might expect. Seems to me that was an interesting result and one that you might not have expected. Sort of like a 170cc head on a 383 with less than 10:1 but a 236@.050" cam spec.
Enjoying the videos Mr H. It's also been interesting to be re-reading my old issues of Engine Masters magazine and seeing your name on the mast head (who knew?). Getting reading for another SBC build here.
Great information on the 350 small block power upgrades. I was surprised that you had to change the valve springs on the CNC heads. I guess that folks should make sure that the springs on their heads will work with their cam. I've seen where some heads come with different spring rates. I look forward to watching your other videos.
Great video content, thanks for sharing!
Wow, I never thought valve springs would make the curve nose dive like that. I thought it would be more erratic. Great video!
Another great, thorough video.... I know you've done some mopar stuff lately and we really appreciate that... How about doing something like this with with a 360? Like compare a stock 360 to one with a good cam, intake and heads, then stroke it out to 408 and see exactly how much more you get from that. A lot of us build 408's but it would be interesting to see how much more a 408 is to a similarly built 360...... Thanks!
Yes i just bought a 408 stroker and im looking to see the difference of a 360
Thanks. I don't think I'll ever get tired of this kind of testing data.
Richard, awesome videos. The more and more I watch these videos, the more I think of getting rid of my Vic Jr single plane intake. Long story short, was told ( builder) that my 383 SBC, 10.5:1 , 195 AFRs, .577 lift cam, 232/236 @.050"- 108 LSA, would not like the Air gap rpm. Car runs awesome, but know can't stop wondering if I'm missing out!
you will trade power like every single vs dual plane test
@@richardholdener1727 yes, seeing that now. I honestly feel the low end torque gain is alot more beneficial to me than the 5000 plus rpm HP gain. Thanks again for all the info!
That's very good to know how the valve springs helped power in the entire rpm curve rather than just at high rpm. Goes to show the wrong spring rate on a lobe will affect spring performance at all rpm range.
I remember years ago having this conversation with cam manufacturers. Even if the rpm range of your fireball cam wasn't much more than stock, stock springs would not work with it.
springs usually only change power at the top (where float occurs)
@@richardholdener1727 This is what's happening to my marine motor: 190cc inexpensive heads on a 383, CompC XM276HR, full roller, but not making more than about 335hp according to my speed...I'm buying CompCam Beehive springs today and going with the Hurricane Single plane intake as well...currently running the Weiand Dual plane Street Warrior & a Holley 670vs...also going with a Holley 770vs Marine Avenger. Stuck on suggested ignition timing: at 35 max at the moment, but other 93 octane runners that I talk too are going 37-38. Thoughts? No, there's no engine dyno within 100 miles of me :(
Very good video! I used a performer rpm cam with Victor Jr intake on my 73 camaro L82 m22 rock crusher and 3.73 posi rear. It ran awesome in the quarter mile! 12.92 @ 109mph was my best but I only had 26 inch tall tires. It may have been a bit faster with a taller tire. This info is great!
It's all about the heads. The best place to spend your money!
Thanks again for the great content. As a younger guy thats planning my forst sbc build I'm finding this videos helpful and entertaining
Great test. Surprised that the larger ported heads made this much difference with a moderate lift cam. Thanks for the test.
Bet you thats where those heads stop flowing at. Usually those cheap heads ahve a tough time flowing any more air past .500 lift.
The new AFR enforcers cast heads are like that
Cool to see the 190 vs the 210 procomp dyno results, I would of expected more down low out of the 190. I know other brand heads dyno better down low but from these results I wouldn't bother with the procomp/speedmaster 190's. Thanks for sharing!
I’m sure the 190’s would benefit from some basic port work, but for a few dollars more you could get a head that flows more out of the box, so why bother with the speed master heads.
CnC heads, 276 cam, Air Gap intake with spacer, solid electronics and slightly modded 750 carb.
I'd LOVE to see a really aggressive lobed cam like the comp QXI / QXE lobes or even a solid roller lobe. -A dyno test highlighting the trade-off between aggressive lobes: longevity and valve train costs vs. power.
-With the big port volume and flow for the cubic inches and RPM, getting that valve open fast and far would've helped produce more power, especially if you already had to buy new springs.
The flat tappets like the Comp XE lobes are essentially as aggressive as a typical hydraulic roller cam (compare the Comp flat tappet and hydraulic roller lobes to one-another; they're both called "XE" for a reason as they're basically the same lobes); to get the benefits of a roller cam in a modern build we need roller cams that have lobes that are more like Solid Rollers. -The Comp XFI and especially the QXI lobes are "solid-roller (of old)-like". They need lightweight valves and retainers or really big springs and heavy thick pushrods, but they make the most of a roller cam.
Torque is based upon the AMOUNT of flow in a GIVEN AREA. The difference between an "equally good" 210cc head and a 195cc head on 350/355 cubic inches wasn't really highlighted here. This was a much better 210cc head vs. a 195cc head: CFM per cross-sectional area of the two heads would show the issue. -I guarantee if you divide the max CFM of the 210cc / it's minimum and average CSA you end up with a higher number than if you divide the max CFM of the 195cc as-cast head in this test. -> Now do the same test on an AFR 23 deg head and you'll see that "average port speed" produces the most average torque and wins races on an NA motor.
Heads should be sized for the motor based upon CSA, cubic inches and desired HP peak RPM; not port VOLUME.
GREAT VIDEO RICHARD!!!! I LOVE JUNKYARD BUILDS!!! THANKS FOR SHARING!!!
For my driving style. I'd pick a cam in the 210 to 220 duration area. perhaps the AFR195 heads. Edelbrock Performer intake. Why you might ask, well I'd respond that with a shaker hood you gotta keep the height pretty close to stock . Even the performer intake is too high, but delete the thick intake to carb gasket and it kind of fits but remains too high. A low RPM cam that keeps good vacuu for your power brakes and A/C controls which are vacuum actuated. . As well as to keep fuel efficiency up. the long legged rear axle ratio runs at 2200 RPM at highway speed so you don't want a lot of cam killing torque off at these speeds. Its about a matched set.
I was just going to comment before you said it. The LS demonstrates the value of good heads at any power level. A lot of us balk at spending 1-2K or more on decent heads, but heads will define the motor.
Quite a change from the valve springs all the way through even before the valve float.
Yes I noticed that as well. If it wasn't in valve float it should have made more power with the lighter springs, not the other way around.
we spent a little more time tuning the spring combo after experiencing the valve float-no need to tune the float combo
@@richardholdener1727 fair point.
I'll take the Edelbrock dual plane AirGap, budget CNC 210 heads and XE282 bumpstick. I think that's the Goldie Locks combo for a healthy street machine.
I'd take that motor!
Me too. I wish he would do a top end for towing and street use. Max Average power under 5000rpm.
How much power 💥 do you think is that combo hood for
I’d love to see you do a 355,10:5:1,,with the edelbrock performer RPM package,with the hydraulic roller setup.wondering what kinda power that would make against what they advertise! Love your shows Richard,keep them coming!!
usually more than advertised
@@richardholdener1727 You proved that yesterday with the 351W. They claimed 410, you got 459 with a carb. On a 440 Mopar, they claim 482 hp, but I've heard it's over 500.
@@richardholdener1727 I'm certain that Edelbrock tests with their own carbs, but you and others use high end, chokeless Holleys. That may account for some of it. Or maybe they use either a more conservative dyno, or a more stringent SAE test standard.
@@richardholdener1727 you use stock rockers, lifters, and push rods?
I’d love to see you review those dirt cheap ebay SBC aluminium heads
Yep and while he's at it the ebay turbo and headers as well
@@brendan1675 you need to subscribe and search, ask and you shall receive, he's ALREADY DONE THOSE TESTS
He's already done those tests, RECENTLY
I built a low buck 383 chinese 4340 rods china 200cc heads small 236/244 @.50 sr cam with rpm intake 10.5 to 1 compression and, it was a torque monster pushed 3660lb 4 door to 7.55 in 1/8 mile
Hi Richard , you've touched on this subject in the past claiming it to be " practically a myth" , how about a test on mis matched intake manifolds ranging from way to small for the head to way too big for the head to just right all on the same heads and manifold , keep up the testing and we'll keep up the watching
mismatched ports?
@@richardholdener1727 He means (I'm sure) an oval port intake on a rectangle head, or vice versa, or, like they did in the 70s, a factory Cobra Jet intake on a non-Cobra Jet motor. Check out Pat Ganahl's 40 yr old book Ford Performance for all the (obsolete) poop.
Yea, I'd love to see that, too! Mismatched intake AND exhaust ports. I've never seen it AB tested before. -Some folks claim that a smaller port on the intake side dumping into a larger head port can HELP torque / power especially when the heads are slighly over sized for the application.
I've also heard some folks say that having a "step" mismatch from a D-port exhaust port in a head to a round header can act as anti-reversion and prop up low-end torque when using a big cam, but I've also heard the opposite, too -> that you want a D-port header on a D-port exhaust port to keep the velocity up to get the exhaust charge further from the cylinder and that THAT is better for anti-reversion.... -Can't be both!
Other extreme exhaust port mismatch: Calvin Elston, one of the top 2 names in header design, says that when exhaust ports are way too big (Big Block Chevy as an extreme example) -he can make way more torque AND HP by having the header entry actually be SMALLER than the heads' exhaust port and that the increase in velocity is beneficial for reduced reversion that props up torque on the low end AND makes more HP on the high-end when sized appropriately because it gets velocity back where it should be.
-Never seen any of this tested; just theoretical discussions.
@@richardholdener1727 Or even a "big port, small cam" engine approach vs. a "small port, big cam" approach to the same engine and HP GOAL. (Ex: If you build 400 or 450 HP 355 SBC with a 210cc port head and a smaller cam and you then swap to a 180cc port head on that same engine and cam it for the same 400 or 450 peak HP, what happens to the curve?)
can u test a 8.1 vortec big block and feed it some boost . heads cam . or maybe a high compression version.... thanks man love the vids 👌
I am looking
@Whitey Powers that's the point, they aren't expensive. If they respond to boost then let's all have a torque party.
@Whitey Powers they had marine versions up to 525hp. and they have a stronger bottom end than a 454. Raylar is the only game in town for aluminum heads so they can charge what they want. they probably have to charge a lot because they don't sell many. if the 8100 were more popular parts would be cheaper.
I’ve got a top kick deck ,tilt bed with a 427 that’s timed out . I’d like to do a larger displacement, low comp build with boost .... I think there’s a future in it .
@Whitey Powers the engine itself doesn't "suck for performance", just the price of the performance parts.
I would really like to see what the gains would be with a larger towing/truck cam, as I feel most of us with an 8.1L would probably consider a cam of that type.
Great stuff love your channel always informative and gives a guy an idea of what you can expect from a combo👍👍👍 many thanks from New Zealand.
Yep enjoying the content thanks ....also from NZ
Thanks 👍
welcome and now go tell everyone else in NZ to join us
@@richardholdener1727 Hawkes Bay , Here ! 🙂
Really good info. As far as I'm concerned the second test just showing a valve spring change is most important. That lets everyone know buying new heads disney mean they are correct for your application.
Turbo 383 SBC!! Big bang style!
Very well done, thank you and keep them coming!
GREAT info. I have gotten all the info I need from your videos, well done!
the recipe for a cheap performance small block--invest in the short block. Get a good crank, rods, pistons, and balance it. Slap on cheap heads and intake. Drive and save up money for good heads and intake, since they can be installed next year without tearing engine apart.
we are talking about beer money for young guys--- beer or sb chevy parts---make a choice
Yessir Rich... Great information as always... I'm doing my 73 c10 350 as we speak brother and I needed these "cheat codes" lololol😆💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾... I was thinking about getting the speed master heads already
Great video, definitely learned a good bit. Here’s my situation, I recently inherited my grandfathers 1970 Chevy C10 LWB. I’m new to the restoring/rebuilding game but I want to do as much myself as possible, why, bc that’s how my grandfather did it. Here’s what I know, It doesn’t have the original 350 and I believe it’s out of either a Pontiac or a Buick... I get two different stories and my grandfather passed in 09 so I can’t go and ask him. I do know that is a 350 sb with a Quadrajet carb and it’s hooked to a turbo 350 trans. I know there’s a lot more to do than just the engine to get the power I want.
I am on an extreme right budget (thanks wife) and I am giving up a brand new truck to make this my dream. If I have a budget of $1000 to get as much power and torque out of this engine... what do I get engine wise? Thanks for any help or guidance.
Buy David Vizard's book and pay him to spec a cam for you. The wrong cam costs just as much as an optimal cam.
Great stuff again! Thanks Richard. My only gripe... I wouldn’t consider roller cams as “budget”. A hydraulic flat tappet would have been more appropriate maybe?
I agree, to a point: on a factory roller motor, you can use the original lifters (usually). But, yes, the cam itself is still $300. A quality HF cam AND lifters is $200. But the roller will make more power, so the extra $100 may be worth it. Your call.
I always think a 10.5to 1 engine on pump gas with enough head and cam to support it is always a good street engine.
I don’t understand how 1 man can do so much work with a family, Richard must have an amazing wife
the most amazing-I love seeing her every day
Low gears (4.56) and a high stall (3,000 and up) I'd always take the cnc heads and single plane nanifold. Back it with a killer overdrive transmission (th2004r or 700r4) = nice street car and good bracket racer! Good info. Thanks for the video
I'm building a old 383 with the 218 cam ex270 , with World heads ,hopefully get plenty of torque for my pickup , Cheers.
Fast burn aluminum heads, there's not much for videos of dyno runs with these heads, would love too see like low buck 383 with these heads with different intake and carbs to see power numbers!!! Keep up the good work, Rich
Huge torque, run out of air up top. Great street choice
Glad to see you used a more appropriate size carb :)
This channel deserves way more subscribers.
I'd probably go with the bigger ports and the single-plane manifold for that top-end rush. This is sort of what I enjoy with my 1990 Miata, albeit on a much smaller scale.
Seriously... in first gear, I can feel it pull harder once it gets past 4K rpm.
Great stuff! Cool seeing my buddy ernie in your video. Keep up the awesome stuff
I wonder what kind of horsepower difference there is in a nitrous cam compared to a non nitrous cam with comparable specs and rpm range! Another great video! A lot more information than I expected! Awesome!!!
Great video as usual. Take it easy on the punching bag damn.
I really enjoyed your video! Thanks for the time and effort to test all this.
I love how low buck to some people is somebody else’s rent lol
The dual planes should've been tested with the 270 cam....more appropriate match. The dual planes with the 282 cam were also a slight mismatch, but I was surprised how much better the RPM did vs the cheaper dual plane. I assumed the offshore intakes were exact duplicates of an RPM, without the logo.
I like this before it started, cheap power is awsome
You saw me in my Jammies??????
When this dude said you in the pajamas I about shit myself cause I'm in my pajamas and I legit thought he was talking to me for a sec 😂 I may or may not have had a few drinks 😂😂😂
Have you looked at the gmpp large port vortex large valve heads from GM ? Cast iron , they offer a small and large port version . Cheap small block power.
For me it would largely come down to the difference in price on those heads. If it were only a few hundred bucks more for the CNC heads then that's what I would get. Now if they were $1000 more for the pair i'd stick with the as-cast. And i'd add to that the better driving cam, dual plane intake, etc. as i'd be building a street driver rather than a race car.
I would've done a forged 408, afr headed, larger cammed, 10.5-11.0 to 1 comp, single plane intake, carb spacer, and holley sniper throttle body injection...I don't do junkyard stuff
I do.
Sounds expensive but cool, but junkyard builds are usually inexpensive and fun without as much worrying about blowing it up, that's what makes them so cool!!
Promaxx heads test please
Thank you Mr Holdener
Great content as always. Maybe in the future do some Pure Stock/F.A.S.T. muscle car races engine stuff. I really like seeing stock "junk" pushed to the limit.
Small cam , duel plane intake ,
Better heads .it's all about Tora for me 🤠
I have a 72 Nova with a "383" stroker supposedly but it has no power. The paint is nice and I don't want to mess it up by cutting a hole in it which a high rise intake would want to do. So if you can setup the best low intake setup for power that would be interesting on a budget as well and no budget thanks your videos are really entertaining and informative
Good info Richard.
As cast and port myself. Big cam, rpm airgap. Should have tried Victor Jr just for shits and giggles. And spacer on low buck.
NICE I own C10 355 balanced Offenhauser intake Edelbrock 650 RV cam Would be nice to see a video how to adjust valves engine off all eight cylinders stock rocker arms considering the fact that all these mechanic shops around here don't know how to adjust valves but are ase-certified
Take out all the plugs, rotate till piston on said cylinder is all the way up the bore, rockers should have play, set lash and move to the next cylinder, repeat till done.
@@theguru-s2l not for a hydraulic cam. Shouldn't have ANY lash. You turn the rocker nut until there's no play, but you can rotate the pushrod with your fingers. Then give it one half of a turn. That sets the preload on a hydraulic lifter.
I really wish we could have seen the real low buck combination of the vortec heads small cam and cheap intake. That way we know if we even needed the as cast heads.
agreed
Great info, thanks again for your help!
I agree with others... how about the same process with a Mopar 360?
Hoping to see an old skool 305 Chevy build out for us “other guys “ Thanks and Blessings for the New Year
I HAVE 305 VIDEOS UP
another lower buck intake that u didnt use was the speedmaster air gap, certainly less expensive than the edelbrock, its identical in design, speedmaster also makews a single plane similar to edelbrock super victor with longer runners. another test maybe?
In your previous power curve Is the carbs Brawler series and the XP dominator Holley series know we're you talking about the XP dominator or was it the ultra XP or 3rd generation dominator love your shows very good learning and info
CNC heads all the way and I would get a the cam that has good vacuum for stack converter and power brakes. Dual plane for drive ability ...!
The ported 210 heads with the professional products single plane, and swap in some high comp pistons to get it up in the 12:1+ range and a e85 carb. Curious if that would crack the 500hp mark.
Rudy Hughes I built a 358 ci DIRT track engine (363ci) I ran a custom 750 4150 style carb on e85. Roller cam bearings, a 2.0” diameter crank journals and a custom crank with a 3.5” stroke versus 3.48. Distro is a MSD Pro billet with Taylor 409 10.4 mm wires. Dizzy has a adjustable collar because of the head and intake corrections. The heads are OEM GM aluminum that were angle milled. DART Little M block. Custom Bullet cam with firing order swap on 4 cylinders; all outboard intake lobes had a slightly longer duration to compensate for intake runner length. DART 2725 single plane intake port matched with heads; nothing fancy. Custom Cometic MLS head gaskets; HV Melling oil pump, stock fuel pump mounting, and water pump driven by belt off crank. I used Trend pushrods that were custom length with thicker walls. Brand name roller shaft & roller rockers with 1.5 rocker ratios topped it off. I’d have to dig out the build sheet to get the piston and rod spec’s. I haven’t touched this motor in 7 years - it sits in an engine cradle in my garage. I was 694 hp and around 550 tq on the Dyno. If there weren’t restrictions on that class I could have certainly gone higher.
@@jeffheld3971 sounds like a good bullet for a hot rod....from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY AND stop this foolishness ❤
Im very interested in the other guys engines, there is plenty engines with little to no aftermarket support, what can be done for a engine like that? Everybody knows a ls or 2jz can make 1000hp+ on boost, but what can be done with say a mopar slaunt six?
I plan on doing a slant
@@richardholdener1727 Yay!! Mopar stuff! I see guys run low 13s NA, and 11s on boost. Some say the best tip is to use the short stroke 170, which rev happily (my 63 Valiant has one), rather than the under square 225, a truck motor.
Richard Holdener I don’t know if anyone else is interested but the 292 and 300 straight 6 have interested me for a “something different” low buck swap choice. Seen a few turboed but the details were lacking
Ps slant six is interesting too. Owned one of them as well as a 300 in trucks
@@richardholdener1727 That would be great. Here n South Africa we have a chevy 4.1 straight six, is that the same engine as the 292 chevy you recently got from David Freiburger?
you in the pjays! lol you got my like
Another cool test!
Great video. Still love to see you throw a 43-45 lb lightweight crank in this engine and see the awesome gains!
There would be a trade off, loss of torque but gain of hp.
Both of you have no idea. The weight of the crank would have absolutely no change on hp or torque. It'd be the same as putting on a lighter flywheel
@@JingleBop might rev quicker, from less inertia, but no power gain....
Alex West your absolutely wrong. If your spinning 56 pounds at 7k rpm compared to 42 pounds it takes way less energy to move it. I know this for a fact. I hope he makes a video now so I can laugh my ass off when your foots in your mouth.
I did a light flywheel and drive plate test-they definitely helped power-be even more effective on an inertia dyno or on the street
I’d like to see the 210’s on a 400 short block with the same cams and intakes. 👍🏻
Same here... I have a 300hp 406 small block with crap factory heads. And would love to see what heads and cams would do.. 3/4 ton 2wheel surburban so it's heavy and torque #'s would be essential...from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠🇺🇸p.s stay safe and healthy everybody GOD BLESS OUR COUNTRY AND stop this foolishness ❤
Would really like to see a 350 build for lower end torque and hp for use 4x4 offroad fans
Hey Richard, could you inset sound clips on these cams that you use? Lots of people are interested in knowing what these cams sound like. Most people are interested in the sound as much as power!!!!
I can on the tests that have video
Thanks Richard. I wish there was a better way to show you how much we appreciate all that you do but for now here’s a HUGE shout out from NC!!!! Have you thought of a name for your cams? Here are some....... RH Cams or LS Cams by RH!!!
a test idea is comparing 350 sbc dual plane intakes with different spacers to the single plane to see if there is a combo that is a good compromise between low end dual planes and top end single planes
lots of spacer videos up
He said “you in the pajamas” and my jaw dropped 😂
I would like to see the graph of a factory curve distributor verse re-curved. I know it wont change the top end power but I think gives that off the stop light kick in the ass. thanks in advance
I see what you did there!
Richard, have you ever done back/back testing of Rochester Qjet vs Holley vs Edelbrock? I've looked all over the 'tube and even done some decent google-fu and not seen that test data. Seems like it would be COMMON knowledge, but it doesn't appear to be. Pretty easy testing. Would be even better to see them back/back on a mild street/strip engine as well as a nice healthy one with good CNC heads, etc.
needs to be on an intake with both bolt patterns
i want to see what the vortec head lt4 hotcam and performer air gap manifold will do
I’ve got a 92 GMC Yukon that has the SBC 5.7/350 with factory throttle body injection. Where I live, there is only safety inspection (no emissions). Can I make more power switching to a carb and will the factory “computer” allow it? I’m mainly looking for more torque for towing…..I don’t want to break the bank upgrading to some high end fuel injection systems. I’m going to have to rebuild the engine at some point (currently has 240K+ miles on it) where I’ll probably tweak the internals somewhat. Thanks!
a carb and dual plane will make more
I would like to see some test on some low buck Promaxx sbc or sbf heads.
Promax heads do well
Cool video. Comp cams thumper cam
Another Good, somehow I had missed this one
For a dummy like me, it would be interesting to know something about the difference in idle quality (or more importantly, vacuum) and street driving manners between the cams you tested. Maybe you could talk Freiburger and Dulcich into doing something on RK Garage?
Would have been really nice to have the price for the parts. Heads, cam intake manifolds.
I have used single plane on a smaller intake runner and not have any noticalble difference on the street if the cam was mild enough. On bigger cams it does of course, or power throughout on the dyno but poor drivability due to lower cam vacuum characteristics on that wilder cam single plane. Some people in my opinion ( it jmo) try to band aid the wrong cam with dual plane and small carb. Not that all the single plane theory and rules are wrong ( and I'm not arguing them) , but just things I have noticed when I have had been short on funding and needed an intake for someone or my self, till we got what was right.
Trying to figure out a combo for a street driven, 3rd gen camaro that I can do a direct swap from a 305. Looking to make more than 325hp but not enough to blow up a 700r4. Suggestions?
A VORTEC 350
Hey Richard if it's all possible could you run one of these tests using a 5.0 low budget that's where I'm at always enjoy watching your
Check out some off the older videos on this channel, there is many tests on 5liter ford and chevy engines.
@@theguru-s2l thank you
Richard how about if you did a home style port job on the as cast heads if you have anything in your files like that it would be a nice comparison.
that would be good
I would take AFR 180 competition cut heads over those big 210cc heads on anything up to a 420 c .i.
Cheapest way to hot rod an engine...get a low mile truck block or invest in a forged slug short block, get it running, and then save up again for a good deal on heads, then save up again for a good deal on a power adder.
I would like to know what the compression ratio was for this test? And what octane would be required for this combination in a tow rig? Keep up the testing I'll keep watching.