Sam, I succeeded in removing the cab and boiler. I removed the two screws for the coal bin and then used a couple pieces of .060 x .250 Styrene as prybars after getting a little room under the edge with a thumb nail. I have photos of the inside if you would like. Then I removed the screw in the smokestack. To benefit future internal cleaning, I lightly filed the retainers on the cab. Keep Making the vids!
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot the account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
Sam - I may be able to help in accessing the motor. I have a customers EFE J94 in for repair as it is a non-runner and emits a smell of burning. Believe it or not, there are only three screws to remove the top half of the body. I have listed the removal procedure which I hope will assist: 1. Undo the two screws underneath the bunker. 2. Undo the screw in the chimney. 3. Remove the smokebox door. 4. Disconnect the end of the plastic pipe from the front right hand side of the body on the lower part of the smokebox. 5. Using you fingernail, GENTLY ease out the end of the saddle tank by the smokebox. 6. Gently wiggle the SADDLE TANK and CAB upwards. 7. If this proves difficult, remove the pipe that goes into the right hand side of the CAB by GENTLY bending it up and out. 8. Remove the CAB by GENTLY wiggling it UPWARDS from side to side (You may need to pull GENTLY to the rear to clear the firebox/controls) 9. If you have successfully removed the CAB, then go back to step 5 and remove the SADDLE TANK. 10. Access can now be gained to the motor for replacement and to inspect/replace the next 18 PCB. 11. On refitting you will need to refit the SADDLE TANK first and then the CAB if you can't refit them both together. Complete the other steps. 12. At the time of writing, the motor and Next 18 PCB are available as spares from the Bachmann Website. I hope this helps . If you do not feel confident then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROCEDURE. However, I have successfully removed the top body halves and have discovered the defective motor burnt out the next 18 PCB so both of these will need to be replaced.
hi sam great video.i thought dave jones models were up to it, this loco is a brute to overhaul. I would be on the phone straight away.to get the instructions amended,at least now I can go and buy a Hornby j94.just as well I looked at your video
Thanks Peter - yes it certainly is a brute - based on the organisation of the website, I didn't fancy giving them/him a call... better to just avoid in the future I think! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I managed to separate the body from the chasse on mine by unscrewing the two screws under the couplings. I then gave it a small tug forward and it separated fine. Although It gets even more strange after then as the motor is mounted up in the body and connects to a gear when you screw the body down. There is also a wire that is goes from the chasse to the motor, this I'm not a fan of as it makes it very hard Handel and makes you think your going to damage something! I think it would be a bit better if they had put more thought into the design and made it easier to access.
To remove the body (EFE Rail version but should work for DJM) 1) Remove screw in funnel & 2 under the cab. 2) Remove the reversing lever from cab front. 3) Some models have a steam feed pipe on the fireman's side, this also needs to be disconnected at each end 4) Run finger nails along the tank as Sam showed that will release the boiler top. To remove the cab you need to splay the sides outwards to allow the 2 catched to release. You can now remove the cab and boiler top. Whilst removed fit crew (if desired) 5) Models can be sound fitted, just enough room for a decoder and an ESU Sugar cube speaker.
@@SamsTrains That worked on the new EFE model as I was able to remove everything & install a Zimo next 18 sound decoder & speaker. Never had the DJM version.
Just ordered one of the nice weathered blue ones praying it'll be a better performer on a Bachmann controller. Bookmarking this video in case it isn't!
My J94 runs very well. When I unpacked it I removed the boiler front to convert to DCC the blanking plate fell out as all the wires were cut. I somehow found David Jones phone number and rang him. He told me to return to my seller. He told me that they used a different production method and installed the electronics through the cab aperture before fixing the cab. He told me that. occasionally when the cab was then fixed on the wires could be trapped and cut.
Glad to hear that Rod - but blimey that's a bit shoddy... Doesn't DJ claim that all models are personally tested before shipping? If it's true that the wires were cut, then it can't be true? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Well done Sam, excellent vid. I often wonder if some of today's models will last as well as the old Hornby Dublo or Triang Railways locos. Keep highlighting these shortcomings.
I was thinking could this loco from Djm be a non servicebl loco. That thought acured to me, but on the other hand this loco mayby has some hiden tabs that need to be twisted in order to gain acess to the motor and gears and what nots. Just a thought i had unservicibility is a not uncomon practise when it comes to electronics. I have encounterd this type of problem and i found it amuseing and some anoying. I agree whith you it is so simple to use two max three screws to retain body to the chassie. Keep the videos coming. And keep safe. ✨✨✨✨🎄🎄🇸🇪🇸🇪
Yeah that's definitely possible - but I don't really want to be prying bodywork with screwdrivers - it almost certainly results in damaging them! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I wish models were built to last like the old Buick Le Saber they were so good Buick stopped making them in 2005 after a 46 year production run, the 1990s variations are still seen across the US even today. But companies realize if you make them good but not super good people will have to come back. Also I say take a hammer to it.
The advantage of having gears on every wheel on split chassis, such as this, means that there is less risk of the coupling rods splaying like the old Bachmann split chassis did.
I suppose so - but it's a convoluted solution if you ask me - a square peg and hole for the plastic insulation would have kept them in quarter... but I still call into question the suitability of split-chassis! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Looks like it’s a “don’t touch with a barge pole” model. Given the servicing you’ve done on my varied locos , if you can’t figure it out I’m sure few others can. Have you considered launching it against a wall?
It certainly is Russell - I'd never suggest buying one of these for any amount of money! I have indeed considered launching it against the wall.... it's a toss-up between that, and cracking it open on a rock, like a snail. Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Depends how they are tested. He assured me they were tested but they are finally assembled after testing and that's when the accident probably occurred with the wires. Replaced with no problems but I mentioned it in conjunction with the apparent "difficulty you alluded to when dismantling.
Hmmm - but if they're not tested once assembled, there's hardly any point... as evidenced by your experience! Since DJM told you he is aware of this issue, there's no excuse really! Hopefully he will improve with future models. Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Perhaps you should call this The Teardown that Never Happened. It is frustrating to any modeller who can't get the chassis off an engine, to get to the motor. Have you ever accidentally knocked a model engine off any of your shelves before?
I was really looking forward to seeing a coreless motor Alas it wasn’t to be ! Fantastic video Sam Your honest reviews and this teardown have put me off getting a DJ. Models loco I hear they have now gone out of business anyway 😊
Hey Sam, from your locomotion livestream, here is how to control the speed of a train, Hold Insert and type driver. That's what my friend told me, amazing video as always!
I also have a locomotive where I can't get the body off to access the motor! But the cylinders on that engine keep coming loose, so I've glued them back on to the metal frame!
haha yes indeed - that's putting it mildly!! Makes me all the more grateful for Hornby... they're not perfect, but at least they're not like this! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam nice video. I share your frustration as I also own a dj models j94. I have achieved to remove the chassis but not the body. To remove the chassis i removed the screws at either end of the chassis underneath the couplings and it just fell out. It is however still attached to the main body by two wires soldered onto it which are the pick up wires. If you look inside the body you can see the worm gear. Its not great at all and I dont think I will be buying from dj models again. Hope this is helpful.
Thanks Luke - yeah that's what I found too - I needed to remove the body to get proper access :( I don't think I will either - very disappointed with this! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Oh blimey - how crazy is that?! I'm not sure I'm willing to take a scalpel to it... though I suppose it would relieve a lot of frustration ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks for the tip! I have at times removed every screw in sight - I was still having to use unreasonable force to get the body to shift :/ Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Oh! Sorry! I do have quite a knack for asking someone for something, then being blind that it's right there / already happened. Thanks much though! :)
It’s a shame that they make them this way Being a Southern railway enthusiast I was very tempted by the 02 and Well tank but will steer clear of them now 😊
I know!! So it's very bold to claim to 'set higher standards' when the design clearly takes inspiration from the Dapol version xD Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam Love your video, I live in India so cannot buy a locomotive as they are really costly and I don't know if the models come in India. So pls if you can send me a engine it would be a pleasure
Hi Richa - really sorry to hear that - but they're very expensive over here too - good luck finding some stuff where you are! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Why would all the driving wheels need a “motor” to drive all of them at once there’s connecting rods for a reason DJM’s are so unconventional otherwise great video Sam 👍
Hey Drifter - check out my Bachmann Thomas servicing video - it shows how to service Donald/Douglas, but they're all pretty much the same! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
oh my the first loco I think you have not liked, its a shame they don't give you a easy way to get into the loco to fix anything, it seems a tad silly,
The chap who owns DJ models was originally working for dapol as their designer. When I went to Warley models show last year he was selling about 100 of these all with faults. Unfortunately his way of designing things is not very good as he tends to rush the models into production without ironing out any faults they may find in the prototypes.
That's very interesting - did he know he was selling them with faults? I've read that he very rarely gets returns with genuine issues... can't be true then! I agree - I really can't find anything nice to say about this model! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Dave Jones was there he was selling ones with factory defects like pour runners , bent coupling rods, wonky wheels etc. He is a nice person to talk to but a pour designer. He left dapol a few years ago and the quality of their Locos has improved massively. I have a video on my channel where I am running some of my engines on a Rolling Road the 9f in that video was designed by him and the wires between the tender are too small so they break quite often the A4 is a recent dapol model which is much nicer than the 9f.
Hmmm - you might need to find the game files, right click on the .exe icon, hit properties, and look for the compatibility options - choose a windows XP, run as administrator, and disable the scaling - give that a go?? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains hah can't say I blame you. In a way, it's a shame, because of the unique nature of some of the models, like the o2 and 1361. Hopefully someone like hattons or Oxford rail will be able to purchase the mouldings and improve the internals and overall quality.
found this answer on RMweb (www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83043-oo-gauge-j94-austerity-tank-locomotive/page-28) Posted 16 October 2016 - 22:34 I've had my Wilbert apart tonight, and wanted to share my findings in case they're of benefit to anyone. Its performance upon arrival, was, it had to be said, not in line with other reports of this model's excellent performance. On DC it was very lumpy at low speed, seeming to have several tight spots which could be seen at roughly 120 degree intervals of each wheel rotation, and there was a distinct cogging effect. The suggestion of fitting a DCC decoder to improve matters only made a small difference to these issues. At higher speeds it wasn't so bad anyway, but the top speed seemed relatively slow and the loco was also quite noisy (though fortunately still not to the extent of the Hornby version's racket!). The most problematic thing though was that the loco was exhibiting the kind of effect you get with a loco with wiper pickups that don't always make contact with the back of the wheels; it stops, you nudge it sideways and off it goes again. I thought about sending it back, but I returned the first I had to Owen Hayward due to it arriving with the tank front handrail missing and wasn't keen to trouble him with a second replacement, so off came the body. The number of screws and their positions are well thought out, though the amount of force required to twist the cab's tabs past wherever they locate against makes removing it a fairly terrifying experience! Curiously enough without the body the performance was fine; nice and smooth, quieter, and capable of reaching the kind of speed that would give the crew on a real Austerity a pretty uncomfortable ride. The cab fits over the top of a curved lug on the end of the saddle tank, so when you secure the cab down it locks the tank down. The top of the saddle tank fits onto a lower section representing the underside and bottom half of the boiler, on top of which is a bracket that secures the motor (which is perched on top of the split chassis itself) in place. It turns out that the tightness of this bracket is crucial to how the loco runs. By just putting the tank on without the cab and pressing down gently as the loco moved, I was able to establish that the issues stemmed from the pressure exerted by the tank and cab when fitted being transmitted to the motor via the retention bracket, so it was meshing too tightly. By easing off the screws on the bracket I was able to get it to run sweetly even when pressing down again. It's back in one piece now and has only trundled backwards and forwards a bit on a short length of track, but its performance appears to be completely transformed now and matches its looks. Now I just need to work out how to set up a sound decoder to get the chuffs synchronised. :)
Thanks a lot for this mate - yes I have seen this thread - I did a lot of research before reviewing mine initially... just in case it was faulty! Glad to hear I'm not the only one with issues! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains No Sam the Thompson L1 as I have one and it's gears aren't working and I can't figure out how to get to them so if you could teardown one if you own it them I'd very much appreciate it. Cheers, Lewis
False advertising, Since you did not tear down. You are on RMWeb, and there are clear instructions there on how to break the glue holding the cab down. So either don't call the video a how to, or actually tear it down and not waste people's time.
Hi Keith - that's very interesting, thanks a lot for the info! If that's true - it's crazy that this wasn't mentioned on the website!! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Sam, I succeeded in removing the cab and boiler. I removed the two screws for the coal bin and then used a couple pieces of .060 x .250 Styrene as prybars after getting a little room under the edge with a thumb nail. I have photos of the inside if you would like. Then I removed the screw in the smokestack. To benefit future internal cleaning, I lightly filed the retainers on the cab. Keep Making the vids!
That's a great teardown
Thanks Justin! :D
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Hendrix Sergio instablaster =)
Sam - I may be able to help in accessing the motor. I have a customers EFE J94 in for repair as it is a non-runner and emits a smell of burning. Believe it or not, there are only three screws to remove the top half of the body. I have listed the removal procedure which I hope will assist:
1. Undo the two screws underneath the bunker.
2. Undo the screw in the chimney.
3. Remove the smokebox door.
4. Disconnect the end of the plastic pipe from the front right hand side of the body on the lower part of the smokebox.
5. Using you fingernail, GENTLY ease out the end of the saddle tank by the smokebox.
6. Gently wiggle the SADDLE TANK and CAB upwards.
7. If this proves difficult, remove the pipe that goes into the right hand side of the CAB by GENTLY bending it up and out.
8. Remove the CAB by GENTLY wiggling it UPWARDS from side to side (You may need to pull GENTLY to the rear to clear the firebox/controls)
9. If you have successfully removed the CAB, then go back to step 5 and remove the SADDLE TANK.
10. Access can now be gained to the motor for replacement and to inspect/replace the next 18 PCB.
11. On refitting you will need to refit the SADDLE TANK first and then the CAB if you can't refit them both together. Complete the other steps.
12. At the time of writing, the motor and Next 18 PCB are available as spares from the Bachmann Website.
I hope this helps . If you do not feel confident then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROCEDURE. However, I have successfully removed the top body halves and have discovered the defective motor burnt out the next 18 PCB so both of these will need to be replaced.
Thank you so much for sharing this Robert - really appreciate your help!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Your most welcome. Let me know if you manage to do this following the instructions.
hi sam great video.i thought dave jones models were up to it, this loco is a brute to overhaul. I would be on the phone straight away.to get the instructions amended,at least now I can go and buy a Hornby j94.just as well I looked at your video
Thanks Peter - yes it certainly is a brute - based on the organisation of the website, I didn't fancy giving them/him a call... better to just avoid in the future I think!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I managed to separate the body from the chasse on mine by unscrewing the two screws under the couplings. I then gave it a small tug forward and it separated fine. Although It gets even more strange after then as the motor is mounted up in the body and connects to a gear when you screw the body down. There is also a wire that is goes from the chasse to the motor, this I'm not a fan of as it makes it very hard Handel and makes you think your going to damage something!
I think it would be a bit better if they had put more thought into the design and made it easier to access.
Ahh very interesting - thanks for this, I'll be sure to give it a go! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Great video Sam it's good that you are showing us how to do this without breaking all the little details on locos
Thanks a lot David - it is a shame I wasn't able to access this one though!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
To remove the body (EFE Rail version but should work for DJM)
1) Remove screw in funnel & 2 under the cab.
2) Remove the reversing lever from cab front.
3) Some models have a steam feed pipe on the fireman's side, this also needs to be disconnected at each end
4) Run finger nails along the tank as Sam showed that will release the boiler top. To remove the cab you need to splay the sides outwards to allow the 2 catched to release.
You can now remove the cab and boiler top. Whilst removed fit crew (if desired)
5) Models can be sound fitted, just enough room for a decoder and an ESU Sugar cube speaker.
Thanks for the tips! I tried all of this and more - still haven't been able to remove the body :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains That worked on the new EFE model as I was able to remove everything & install a Zimo next 18 sound decoder & speaker. Never had the DJM version.
Just ordered one of the nice weathered blue ones praying it'll be a better performer on a Bachmann controller. Bookmarking this video in case it isn't!
That sounds good mate - I hope it does run well for you! Let me know how it goes! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
great tear down SAM :) and putting back to together !
Thanks Brian! :D
My J94 runs very well. When I unpacked it I removed the boiler front to convert to DCC the blanking plate fell out as all the wires were cut. I somehow found David Jones phone number and rang him. He told me to return to my seller. He told me that they used a different production method and installed the electronics through the cab aperture before fixing the cab. He told me that. occasionally when the cab was then fixed on the wires could be trapped and cut.
Glad to hear that Rod - but blimey that's a bit shoddy... Doesn't DJ claim that all models are personally tested before shipping? If it's true that the wires were cut, then it can't be true?
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Well done Sam, excellent vid. I often wonder if some of today's models will last as well as the old Hornby Dublo or Triang Railways locos. Keep highlighting these shortcomings.
Thanks Colin! I think the answer is absolutely not.... but only time will tell!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I was thinking could this loco from Djm be a non servicebl loco.
That thought acured to me, but on the other hand this loco mayby has some hiden tabs that need to be twisted in order to gain acess to the motor and gears and what nots.
Just a thought i had unservicibility is a not uncomon practise when it comes to electronics.
I have encounterd this type of problem and i found it amuseing and some anoying.
I agree whith you it is so simple to use two max three screws to retain body to the chassie.
Keep the videos coming.
And keep safe.
✨✨✨✨🎄🎄🇸🇪🇸🇪
Try prying the cab with a small flat head screwdriver. Usually there are little tabs that hold the boiler and cab to the chassis
Yeah that's definitely possible - but I don't really want to be prying bodywork with screwdrivers - it almost certainly results in damaging them!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I wish models were built to last like the old Buick Le Saber they were so good Buick stopped making them in 2005 after a 46 year production run, the 1990s variations are still seen across the US even today. But companies realize if you make them good but not super good people will have to come back. Also I say take a hammer to it.
I agree, it is such a shame they don’t make them like they used to, some of them are okay though!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The advantage of having gears on every wheel on split chassis, such as this, means that there is less risk of the coupling rods splaying like the old Bachmann split chassis did.
I suppose so - but it's a convoluted solution if you ask me - a square peg and hole for the plastic insulation would have kept them in quarter... but I still call into question the suitability of split-chassis!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I agree, I do not like split-chassis from experience.
Boy, that DJM J94 seems like a headache. If I go looking for a model J94, I don't think I'll get that one. Good video as always Sam.
haha - yes it certainly is - I'd suggest the Hornby one - unless something better comes along!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Looks like it’s a “don’t touch with a barge pole” model. Given the servicing you’ve done on my varied locos , if you can’t figure it out I’m sure few others can. Have you considered launching it against a wall?
It certainly is Russell - I'd never suggest buying one of these for any amount of money! I have indeed considered launching it against the wall.... it's a toss-up between that, and cracking it open on a rock, like a snail.
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Depends how they are tested. He assured me they were tested but they are finally assembled after testing and that's when the accident probably occurred with the wires. Replaced with no problems but I mentioned it in conjunction with the apparent "difficulty you alluded to when dismantling.
Hmmm - but if they're not tested once assembled, there's hardly any point... as evidenced by your experience! Since DJM told you he is aware of this issue, there's no excuse really!
Hopefully he will improve with future models.
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Perhaps you should call this The Teardown that Never Happened. It is frustrating to any modeller who can't get the chassis off an engine, to get to the motor. Have you ever accidentally knocked a model engine off any of your shelves before?
haha yeah - a real joke this one was!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I was really looking forward to seeing a coreless motor
Alas it wasn’t to be !
Fantastic video Sam
Your honest reviews and this teardown have put me off getting a DJ. Models loco
I hear they have now gone out of business anyway 😊
haha, nope wasn't to be! I can't blame you - I've never been much impressed by them!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam, from your locomotion livestream, here is how to control the speed of a train, Hold Insert and type driver. That's what my friend told me, amazing video as always!
Hi mate - I knew you could do that!! Thanks very much for that - I will give that a try! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I also have a locomotive where I can't get the body off to access the motor! But the cylinders on that engine keep coming loose, so I've glued them back on to the metal frame!
Ahh that's a real pain! Which engine is that??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
A real brute. Looks like the DJ Models website leaves something to be desired.
haha yes indeed - that's putting it mildly!! Makes me all the more grateful for Hornby... they're not perfect, but at least they're not like this!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If it's not servicable, I'd toss it tbh. That brake rigging part could be cut off, realy, nobody's gonna notice it's there anyway.
Yep - well if she ever breaks down, that's what I'll have to do - absolute rubbish :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam nice video. I share your frustration as I also own a dj models j94. I have achieved to remove the chassis but not the body. To remove the chassis i removed the screws at either end of the chassis underneath the couplings and it just fell out. It is however still attached to the main body by two wires soldered onto it which are the pick up wires. If you look inside the body you can see the worm gear. Its not great at all and I dont think I will be buying from dj models again. Hope this is helpful.
Thanks Luke - yeah that's what I found too - I needed to remove the body to get proper access :(
I don't think I will either - very disappointed with this!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Not taken mine apart yet but I believe the cab sides are or can be glued to the cab floor and needs prising off with a scalpel.
Oh blimey - how crazy is that?! I'm not sure I'm willing to take a scalpel to it... though I suppose it would relieve a lot of frustration ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I use small plastic glue spreaders to release clips on carriages maybe that would help
Very beautiful model Sam, love your videos 👍
Beautiful?! I think that's a strong word ;D
You should do one with the brill trolley! Wonder what it's "insides" look like
Yeah that would be awesome - I have seen one now actually - they are very impressive!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, again a very informative and helpful video. Cheers, Norbert
Thanks Norbert - glad you liked this!! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Could you do another shunting video? And if you can, can you bash the cars into a siding? If they can handle it and not break.
haha that sounds fun - I may try that one day! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Unscrew the screws on the couplings too I think it holds a part of a chassis
Thanks for the tip! I have at times removed every screw in sight - I was still having to use unreasonable force to get the body to shift :/
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Good one. I couldn’t do it on the expensive model like that.
Thanks Jack - well even I could manage this one - total garbage ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very good teardown
Thank you! :D
Fun fact I’m the 3x great grandson of Charles Rous-marten who was famous for recording the city of Truro’s speed record
Ooh very nice!! So you reckon it really did break the record then?? ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains yes i do believe that she broke the record and I believe he was telling the truth
Rare footage of a railway man trying to clean a J94 but failing-1943 colorized
haha!! xD
Teardown Bachmann Thomas? I'd like to know if I ever needed to fix it.
Sure! Though I did show how to service the Bachmann Thomas locos - they're all pretty similar! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Oh! Sorry! I do have quite a knack for asking someone for something, then being blind that it's right there / already happened. Thanks much though! :)
It’s a shame that they make them this way
Being a Southern railway enthusiast I was very tempted by the 02 and Well tank but will steer clear of them now 😊
Yeah it is mate - I wouldn't do it myself!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Easy way to access that engine and you only need one tool
A hammer
haha - great suggestion actually ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Interesting video, sometimes manufacturers aren't very helpful are they?
Thanks mate! That's very true in the case of DJM - not happy with this one!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Doctor Sam's train report to joined 😄
haha!! ;D
hi Sam, have you done a review of the EFE J94 wagggoner ? I'm after buying one and just wanted your opinion, thanks
Hi mr Sam trains I have a question did you ever scrap a model train if so my model trains would be scared
haha yeah I have scrapped some before - but only so that their parts can live on in other models! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I was thinking of buying a dj models king class
The N gauge ones? I'd strongly recommend against it, at least until the reviews come through! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam, some you win some you lose. if it's not broken don't fix it.............John.
Thanks John... I agree, but it runs very poorly, so really it does need fixing!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
They pretty much copied the screw arrangement from the Dapol/Hornby J94. There’s 2 under the bunker and 1 in the chimney in that 1 too.
I know!! So it's very bold to claim to 'set higher standards' when the design clearly takes inspiration from the Dapol version xD
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey Sam, I was wondering if you could do a review of the Hornby country flyer train set? If so that would be amazing
That does sound great Max - I'll have to look at that! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Thanks, have a good day
Good video, I love these engines!
Keep up the good work :)
Thanks Og - I love them too! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Good job Sam!
Thank you Marco! :D
Hi Sam
Love your video, I live in India so cannot buy a locomotive as they are really costly and I don't know if the models come in India.
So pls if you can send me a engine it would be a pleasure
richa madan sad to hear that hope you can find one and enjoy the hobby 😀
Hi Richa - really sorry to hear that - but they're very expensive over here too - good luck finding some stuff where you are! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Why would all the driving wheels need a “motor” to drive all of them at once there’s connecting rods for a reason DJM’s are so unconventional otherwise great video Sam 👍
I agree - it's a bit silly really! Glad you enjoyed it mate!
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hey Sam! Can you make a video on how to service Bachmann Thomas please?
Hey Drifter - check out my Bachmann Thomas servicing video - it shows how to service Donald/Douglas, but they're all pretty much the same! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam! Just a quick question are all the screws in the same place as Donald
Lol it breaks down like an old Mehano or Tyco.
oh my the first loco I think you have not liked, its a shame they don't give you a easy way to get into the loco to fix anything, it seems a tad silly,
Yeah, probably the first! It really is a shame - no excuse for the design really :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The chap who owns DJ models was originally working for dapol as their designer. When I went to Warley models show last year he was selling about 100 of these all with faults. Unfortunately his way of designing things is not very good as he tends to rush the models into production without ironing out any faults they may find in the prototypes.
That's very interesting - did he know he was selling them with faults? I've read that he very rarely gets returns with genuine issues... can't be true then! I agree - I really can't find anything nice to say about this model!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains Dave Jones was there he was selling ones with factory defects like pour runners , bent coupling rods, wonky wheels etc. He is a nice person to talk to but a pour designer. He left dapol a few years ago and the quality of their Locos has improved massively. I have a video on my channel where I am running some of my engines on a Rolling Road the 9f in that video was designed by him and the wires between the tender are too small so they break quite often the A4 is a recent dapol model which is much nicer than the 9f.
Thank you Sam.
No problem! :D
Happy 4th of July Sam
Haha, Sam is from UK. So no 4th July in Europe :-)
Aw I feel bad
And to you too mate! :D
Nice Sam
Hariz DanishEngine22 Hi
Thank you! :D
Cool loco
You think? ;D
Get in touch with DJ models to see if they can help
I doubt he'd be willing to redesign the model just for me.... otherwise I would ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
And you should do a nother fastest steam trains running session to celebrate the 80 years yesterdey since Mallard broke the world steam speed record
I tried playing the locomotion game but it said something about the graphics or something like that
Hmmm - you might need to find the game files, right click on the .exe icon, hit properties, and look for the compatibility options - choose a windows XP, run as administrator, and disable the scaling - give that a go??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
When Is The Year You Got Your First Model Train Set?
I think it was 2012! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Bloody hell that is all of and pieces
haha I know!! ;D
With the demise of djm, do you reckon on getting anymore of his models while it's still possible, like the o2, the 1361 or the 14xx?
Hey Brad - I don't unfortunately - I've had more than my fill of DJM for a lifetime, hehe! ;)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains hah can't say I blame you. In a way, it's a shame, because of the unique nature of some of the models, like the o2 and 1361. Hopefully someone like hattons or Oxford rail will be able to purchase the mouldings and improve the internals and overall quality.
I could not access the motor sine I do not have DJ Model’s J94
Well I think you're very lucky not to have one, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I guess you can say tearing down this model sets higher standards that the model itself.
Wink Wink Nudge Nudge
I regret what I said
haha!! ;D
You ever thought about doing N gauge
I have actually - it'd be awesome to try one day! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
What's your favorite British comedy TV show?
Probably Fawlty Towers! :D
I like “Only Fools & Horses”
Daylight isn't a Pacific mate, it's a northern
Sorry about that! I meant to say Southern Pacific, not daylight! But it is the Daylight loco!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
found this answer on RMweb (www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83043-oo-gauge-j94-austerity-tank-locomotive/page-28)
Posted 16 October 2016 - 22:34
I've had my Wilbert apart tonight, and wanted to share my findings in case they're of benefit to anyone.
Its performance upon arrival, was, it had to be said, not in line with other reports of this model's excellent performance. On DC it was very lumpy at low speed, seeming to have several tight spots which could be seen at roughly 120 degree intervals of each wheel rotation, and there was a distinct cogging effect. The suggestion of fitting a DCC decoder to improve matters only made a small difference to these issues. At higher speeds it wasn't so bad anyway, but the top speed seemed relatively slow and the loco was also quite noisy (though fortunately still not to the extent of the Hornby version's racket!). The most problematic thing though was that the loco was exhibiting the kind of effect you get with a loco with wiper pickups that don't always make contact with the back of the wheels; it stops, you nudge it sideways and off it goes again.
I thought about sending it back, but I returned the first I had to Owen Hayward due to it arriving with the tank front handrail missing and wasn't keen to trouble him with a second replacement, so off came the body. The number of screws and their positions are well thought out, though the amount of force required to twist the cab's tabs past wherever they locate against makes removing it a fairly terrifying experience! Curiously enough without the body the performance was fine; nice and smooth, quieter, and capable of reaching the kind of speed that would give the crew on a real Austerity a pretty uncomfortable ride.
The cab fits over the top of a curved lug on the end of the saddle tank, so when you secure the cab down it locks the tank down. The top of the saddle tank fits onto a lower section representing the underside and bottom half of the boiler, on top of which is a bracket that secures the motor (which is perched on top of the split chassis itself) in place. It turns out that the tightness of this bracket is crucial to how the loco runs. By just putting the tank on without the cab and pressing down gently as the loco moved, I was able to establish that the issues stemmed from the pressure exerted by the tank and cab when fitted being transmitted to the motor via the retention bracket, so it was meshing too tightly. By easing off the screws on the bracket I was able to get it to run sweetly even when pressing down again. It's back in one piece now and has only trundled backwards and forwards a bit on a short length of track, but its performance appears to be completely transformed now and matches its looks. Now I just need to work out how to set up a sound decoder to get the chuffs synchronised. :)
Thanks a lot for this mate - yes I have seen this thread - I did a lot of research before reviewing mine initially... just in case it was faulty!
Glad to hear I'm not the only one with issues!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains How about following the advice given and post a proper teardown video Sam?
Nice video thumbs up for you
Thanks very much Jayson - that's very kind of you! :D
cheers,
Sam :)
1:24 I thought you said a 10 hour video
haha - if only ;D
I told you in the stream that I would be here 😃
You did indeed! Hope you enjoy this! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hi Sam, could you strip down a Hornby L1 please
Cheers, Lewis
Hey Lewis! Is that the L1 4-4-0, or the L1 tank??
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains No Sam the Thompson L1 as I have one and it's gears aren't working and I can't figure out how to get to them so if you could teardown one if you own it them I'd very much appreciate it.
Cheers, Lewis
Thanks Sam. I won't be buying one if they are that much trouble. Geoff. w.
I think that's a good idea Geoff - I really can't recommend these!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
My Grandad used to build locos like the J94 at Hunslet Engine Company and they all came apart for service!!! Geoff. W.
haha - shame these models aren't more prototypical!!
TEAR IT DOWN!!!!!!!!!
haha! This one deserves it ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey Sam! I wanted to tell you that! RUclips is annoying me because in some of your videos we can’t put comments because of that RUclips kids thing :(
Yes you're right - it is annoying :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I’m sorry you couldn’t get it apart my dear. 💋
haha no worries - I like to think it was the engine's fault ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Wilbert And 16 Are Hunslet Austerities Not J94s
Ahh fair enough - thanks for letting me know! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Also keep up the good work
Thank you!! :D
False advertising, Since you did not tear down. You are on RMWeb, and there are clear instructions there on how to break the glue holding the cab down. So either don't call the video a how to, or actually tear it down and not waste people's time.
Will you be streaming again today? :)
I hope to Mark - rally the troops!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains I shall do ;D Let me know what time so I can Crash the party! ;P
Sure thing - I'll be starting at 2! Try and get a couple of hours in!
Tear me down Sam
Lol
Ooh no thanks! ;D
Exploded
Video of engine exploding
haha! ;D
I like your 'teardown' video. Manufacturers do not explain anything. Very poor.
Thanks Nigel - agreed - very poor indeed :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Aviod it no fun there!!
Agreed!!
Don't break it that cost you long of salary
I agree - that's why I gave up!! ;D
Watch Magnum the Mank Engine.
haha sounds fun! ;D
Hi
Hey! :D
No dislike well deserved
Thanks Fuzzy - much appreciated! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
First commentary! :D
Well done Freddy! :D
Second!!
haha! ;D
first
Well done! :D
Hi Sam
I have done some more looking and see that there is screw hidden under the coal.
Regards
Keith
Hi Keith - that's very interesting, thanks a lot for the info! If that's true - it's crazy that this wasn't mentioned on the website!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)