Larry, thank you for the information, especially on the FROG AR 250. That product makes a lot of sense to me. Adding a PSXX would be useful for my layout too. I really appreciate the substantial effort that you undertake to have these videos clear, understandable and unbiased. Please keep up the great work.
Hi Larry, I’m one of your UK subscribers I have found your dcc info very helpful. I recently bought a NCE power cab beginners dcc system which is why I was inspired to subscribe to your channel. My layout is not the standard 8 by 4 layout so the bus is around 30 foot and recently I had a run away engine, it’s when things like this happens I find myself attracted to certain of your videos. This time I was drawn to your video on snubbers which I felt curious about. When I played it realised it would help me rectify my run away engine problem which is now resolved thanks to that. So for me your channel is for dcc and all that is associated with that thank you. I am looking forward to your take on a helix.
Trevor, you also might want to set CV29 so that analog conversion is off. That will also help suppress runaways. But it will also mean locos will not run on a DC track so you will need to change it back of you take you locos to a club or other layout that is still DC.
Hi Trevor,Im in the UK as well and find Larry's tips very helpful as well. I dont know if you know but larry also recommends setting cv 29 to be DCC only and not enable running on DC to make 'run aways' less likely. Larry covers this in another video but not certain what the number is.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks Larry I will look into that. I’m still very much at the setting up stage, track laying, wiring and electrical that sort of thing. I am building it using a modular style 4ft by 2ft sections, so I have loads of connections in my bus wire. I under stand this can cause a fair degree of RF interference, I wonder what your take is on that?
@@trevorsmith2152 I don’t know about the connections creating noise but the N-scale modular crews should have some experience with that. I built the Piedmont Southern using 2’x8’ modules constructed just like the modules I did a little over a year ago. However my DCC power bus was added afterwards as one long continuous run so not breaks or connectors. The best connectors I find are Anderson Power Poles which I believe are now the recommended standard for modular groups. I showed how to use them when I added the power bus for the modules in video #143.
@@1701_FyldeFlyer hi there, thanks for your reply, Larry is very good on dcc he explains it clearly and in layman’s terms. I’m still learning so getting there gradually. Another channel I subscribe to is boomer dioramas he is a very good modeller and has done it most of his working life in the film industry and I believe Museums making dioramas. If you view his channel you will wonder if it’s a model or the actual thing your looking at.
Just wanted to thank you for the content you have shared. Because of you and your channel, I made the switch from DC to DCC. It was a much better learning curve with your videos to go to when I got confused. Thanks again and I look forward to your next video.
Dear Larry, as always very much like and appreciate your concise explanation on these appendages. Definitely will check out the frog AR, sounds very good 👍, indeed straightforward and accurate. Looking forward to your helix build. Pity though so many people lose interest in your more electronic vids.
Like the other comments, I really appreciate you reviewing new DCC products and electronic topics in general for model railroading. I've learned so much from your books and videos and feel confident buying the products you recommend. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Larry. Sorry to hear your viewing numbers have dropped. I've never used DCC (and don't actually have a layout at all at the moment), but I find your DCC stuff very interesting and eye-opening to the possibilities, even if sometimes it goes over my head. I appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos.
Looking forward to the Helix builds. Not saying the DCC stuff wasn't interesting but its a balancing act between both topics to satisfy both audiences.
Really enjoyed this one Larry. I read about the frog juicer, but did not know a lot about it. The tutorial for the programmable circuit breaker was also very informative. Have you done a video about the different types of turn outs ? Not the manufacture’s difference but the difference between a #5 vs a #6 turnout? I am specifically looking at designing a layout but it seems more guess your best when choosing one. Or is there a formula to figure out which # turn out is best to use while designing your lay out? Thank you for your time Larry !
I suggest you get a copy of John Armstrong’s book Track Planning for Realistic Operation. It is available from the Kalmbach Hobby website or Amazon. It is the reference book I turn to for questions like yours.
Very good coverage of the psxx and frog-ar. However, I need info on crossing signals. I have an automatic system purchased from a company called 'wehonest' which had goods reveiws and seems good quality. It utilizes 2 ir detectors and operates all right, but I have a double track main. How best to make it work for both mains? Do I need two more ir's? Is another system possible with one set of signals? Have you covered this problem in any prior videos? Thanks for any help. Really like your tutorials and don't despair about too much time spent on DCC. It is the name of your show!
Larry: Could you explain trip current in context with circuit protection, why and how you determine the trip current you need or should use for a PSXX.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry thanks for the lead to the info that I needed. I have always been under the impression that circuit protection modules for model railroads were just for handling shorts in the block that they were protecting and that they supplied the full amperage that the power supply had. I have now found out that they can also control the amperage to the block that they control.
Hi Larry. I rely heavily on your RUclips videos for constructing my dcc Ho layout. They are the best and most helpful I have come across- thank you so much. I have a divided my layout into 7 power districts and am using NCE power pro with psx circuit breakers to each district. If each circuit breaker is set to 2 amps will that be a problem because my powerpro is 5 amps? Thanks and regards Ernie
Sounds like you’re doing exactly what I would suggest. The PSXs will share the 5 amps from the PH system and if you get to the point where you are overtaxing it then you could add a booster for more power.
@@TheDCCGuy fantastic! Thanks ever so much for your advice and prompt response. Another question if I may- I have a PSX4 and have just purchased a PSXX3 from Tony’s Trains. Are both compatible? Thanks again Ernie (Australia)
I've not seen any videos as yet on actually connecting a DCC system to a WiFi. Since a lot of things these days depend on doing that, I think a video on how to do that connection might be helpful at some point.
I appreciate your channel and information. I have a question about Tam valley juicers. I modified my peco turnouts to have powered frogs, each turnout is connected to a Mono frog juicer, my layout runs smoothly, but I don’t understand why some of the juicers show a red led and some have a green showing. What does this mean as my layout runs smoothly regardless,? I use NCE 5 amp system, my wiring is consistent for all juicers. Thank you for your help
The LEDs change between red and green when they reverse the frog’s phase (polarity). So have someone run a loco over these turnouts and watch the LEDs, as lo g as they are changing color they are doing their job.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you!!!I appreciate you’re lightening fast response on this subject, with what’s going on in this world, I feel like my problems are petty, but again Thank you, you’re a good guy and very smart!!!
Good morning...I really enjoy your videos. Question please, you said you get the RECHARGEABLE batteries from Amazon but i did not fully understand what you said, did you say they were MH batteries? I want to make sure i get the right kind. What about 9 volt batteries, do you know of a rechargeable long lasting replacement also? THANK YOU.
Good video Larry. Im disappointed the viewing figures have gone down because you've done some DCC content. Your channel is sub headed the DCC Guy so what do people expect? Hopefully, this is just a blip and you continue to do DCC content. Im a little confused about using multiple circuit beakers where their combined ampage exceeds that of the PSU. Unless one has a huge layout, it seems to be 5 amps is suggested as a good ampage to use. If you divide your layout into say 4 blocks, each of 2 amps that means a total of 8 amps is required. In this case, would it be better to have 2 PSUs \ boosters each having 2 circuit breakers set to 2 amps each or, could you still achieve the 2 amps per block using a single 5 amp PSU? Keep up the great work.
Yes, but if you set it up correctly you will never have enough locos running all at the same time in all your blocks to exceed the total booster amps-that is how power management works. Think about the circuits in your house. I would bet you that if you add up the circuit breakers in your electrical panel box they easily exceed the 200 amp service provided to your house. It works because you never have all the electrical appliances, lights, etc on at the same time. Power management for your layout uses that same approach.
Hi Larry: Does the Frog AR do a better job of protecting individual turnouts from the impacts of shorts than the Frog Juicer? Is there a reason to replace the Juicers with the AR? Thanks.
I can’t think of any reason to replace existing ones as the FrogAR basically works on the same principle. I think the trip speeds are comparable but there may be some other reasons in some of the options but I don’t have time right now to dig into the manual to search for it.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry: Thanks for the response. Your videos have been eye-opening regarding the effect of shorts on decoders. I've been losing 6-10 locos during each operating session-scrambled/stop responding (7 operators, 3 hours). As a result of your information (and discussions with local modelers and Mark Juett at the St Louis National), I'm going to to replace my old PM 42's with PSXX's, and replacing an old home made power supply providing power to the Command Station, and add snubbers. I'm hopeful that the current limiting aspect of the PSXX will reduce the effect of shorts. Thanks!
I wonder #1 if these are better suited for the amperage of the Power Cab than the ones I have and #2 if once I upgrade to an SB5 in the near future, if I would have better results with the ones I already have?? My current Power Cab is around 1.8 amps. But, the older PSX1, which is actually less than 3 years old, the lowest available trip current is around 1.3 amps.
Hey Larry, I hope I understand it well, the circuit breaker does protect my command station aigainst produced shorts onto layout what will be eventually not detected from the command station? My command station gives a maximum Amperage of 3.2 Amps to the tracks, so I will be in need of an arrangement of 2 × 2 Amps in parallel connected use? Thanks for your help in answering my questions. Ya, Ingo
The circuit breaker primarily prevents your command station booster from repeatedly turning on and off and overloading its electronics. If you carefully read the manuals they eventually say that allowing this to go on repeatedly is not healthy for them. With your low amperage system a circuit breaker that can be set low enough to maximize the output. One option is the NCE EB1 which can be set as low as 1.5 amps so two of them would allow you to power two blocks at 1.5 amps each. For more on power management see my video #112. Also, look at video #97 on circuit breakers as well as a couple other videos on using ballast lamps.
Hi Larry, just received my PSXX and have 2 questions; first I used NCE power cab do I have to change the trip to use it in my switching yard and is ready to
Depends on the amperage of the power supply that came with the PowerCab. You want the PSXX trip current to be set lower than what the PowerCab is rated for. The default is 2 amps on the PSXX but you can easily set it to 1 amp using CV49 as explained in the instructions.
Ah, you got one of the newer ones, mine is 1.4 amps. You could leave it at 2 amps then later if you run into situations where you exceed that and the PSXX shuts down then bump it up to 3 amps. At that point if the PowerCab is actually good for a little more than 3 amps then the PSXX should kick out first but if you run into situations where the PowerCab shuts down first then drop it back to 2 amps.
Larry, I am using a walthers double crossover that I'm having shorts created when a loco enters the frog. Would the Frog-AR eliminate this problem and how would I connect it to the 4 separate tabs on the crossover? Would each tab get connected to one of the four outputs on the Frog-AR?
Yea, it should do the job. Just connect a wire to each tab and connect the other end to the screw terminals on the Frog-AR as I showed o the video. I used Frog Juicers on mine and it works great too.
Hi Larry, comparing your wiring to the diagram included with the PSXX are different. on the diagram the out put is reversed. on yours you have both red on the top any reason
I just looked at their diagram and they show a black wire on top and a red wire on the bottom in all cases. On mine I used red and green wires but I always have the red wire on top and the green on the bottom. Color is simply color, it doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent.
I have both the long and short versions of the instructions and the black wire is shown on top on both the input and output terminals. Mine are both for software version D specified on the top of the first page. They may have revised the instructions for a different version but I can’t see where it matters anyway as long as you are consistent. UPDATE-I just looked on their website and the new one is version G and as you say they do have the wires reversed on the input and output sides. I will contact Larry Maier and see why.
OK, here is what Larry says. I asked whether it matters as long as you are consistent and as you can see there apparently was a change on the circuit board so pay close attention to the numbers on those jumpers to prevent problems if you mix old and new versions. I am surprised they did not point this out in the instructions. Yes, it really matters, particularly if you are mixing PSX and PSXX. If you look at the J2 outputs on both the PSX and the PSXX, pin 1 is on the left and pin 2 is on the right for both of them. !HOWEVER! Looking at the input connector (J1) for the PSX pin 1 is to the right but for the PSXX pin 1 is on the left. If you don't follow the colors (which are keyed to the position of pin 1), you will get a short where the PSX district meets the PSXX district.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, so what i underestand I have to go respect the input and output colors on J1 and J2 as per instructions. Well this will be part on a next video.
Larry, do you have any idea how to change the PSXX1 trip current default from 2 to a higher number using the Uwt50? Also I’m using the CS105 system Thanks Paul
First you can set it to values up to 4 using jumpers. Then you can use CV49 to set it to any value up to 10 amps. This is all explained in the instructions.
@@TheDCCGuyi appreciate your response, my question is how do I do it using the UWT50 I can’t find accessories in the menus thought maybe you knew something. I know NCE there is a button on the Controller, TCS there’s not. Sorry for the confusion I understand the instructions just can’t find the menu function. I’m new to DCC only had it for a month.
For systems that do not offer a specific accessory programming option you simply use ops mode programming to change CVs. See the instructions at the back of the manual for specifics.
Hi Larry I have some issues setting this up. I’m getting a “short” at the insulated junction between blocks. All my wiring appears correct. Any way I can speak to you or email with you about it? Not sure if you have any ideas on it. Thx. David
The (250) means this is video 250 on my channel. As for detection you can reduce the sensitivity of the bdl168 by adding resistors as described in the instructions. The bdl168 is 22 years old and no longer made so I have no idea it will work, best to ask Digitrax tech support.
I was not aware the digitrax bdl168 had ceased production this will be news to users. It is still listed in current production on there website. And my local seller can still import them from digitrax.
@@TheDCCGuy I was hoping to be spoon fed, which is why I watch youtube how-to video's. Anyway, my layout isn't to the point where I will be able to play trains. Too much house remodeling in the way.
Larry, thank you for the information, especially on the FROG AR 250. That product makes a lot of sense to me. Adding a PSXX would be useful for my layout too. I really appreciate the substantial effort that you undertake to have these videos clear, understandable and unbiased. Please keep up the great work.
Super helpful video teaching us how to program the numbers and the trip current on the PSXX. Keep them coming!
I like the DCC topics. Its always changing. I know how to paint and hammer things together. I’m an IT person and retired professor of MIS. Good job.
Hi Larry, I’m one of your UK subscribers I have found your dcc info very helpful. I recently bought a NCE power cab beginners dcc system which is why I was inspired to subscribe to your channel. My layout is not the standard 8 by 4 layout so the bus is around 30 foot and recently I had a run away engine, it’s when things like this happens I find myself attracted to certain of your videos. This time I was drawn to your video on snubbers which I felt curious about. When I played it realised it would help me rectify my run away engine problem which is now resolved thanks to that. So for me your channel is for dcc and all that is associated with that thank you. I am looking forward to your take on a helix.
Trevor, you also might want to set CV29 so that analog conversion is off. That will also help suppress runaways. But it will also mean locos will not run on a DC track so you will need to change it back of you take you locos to a club or other layout that is still DC.
Hi Trevor,Im in the UK as well and find Larry's tips very helpful as well. I dont know if you know but larry also recommends setting cv 29 to be DCC only and not enable running on DC to make 'run aways' less likely. Larry covers this in another video but not certain what the number is.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks Larry I will look into that. I’m still very much at the setting up stage, track laying, wiring and electrical that sort of thing. I am building it using a modular style 4ft by 2ft sections, so I have loads of connections in my bus wire. I under stand this can cause a fair degree of RF interference, I wonder what your take is on that?
@@trevorsmith2152 I don’t know about the connections creating noise but the N-scale modular crews should have some experience with that. I built the Piedmont Southern using 2’x8’ modules constructed just like the modules I did a little over a year ago. However my DCC power bus was added afterwards as one long continuous run so not breaks or connectors. The best connectors I find are Anderson Power Poles which I believe are now the recommended standard for modular groups. I showed how to use them when I added the power bus for the modules in video #143.
@@1701_FyldeFlyer hi there, thanks for your reply, Larry is very good on dcc he explains it clearly and in layman’s terms. I’m still learning so getting there gradually. Another channel I subscribe to is boomer dioramas he is a very good modeller and has done it most of his working life in the film industry and I believe Museums making dioramas. If you view his channel you will wonder if it’s a model or the actual thing your looking at.
Just wanted to thank you for the content you have shared. Because of you and your channel, I made the switch from DC to DCC. It was a much better learning curve with your videos to go to when I got confused. Thanks again and I look forward to your next video.
Really great Larry, your Critiques of Kit is always so concise and useful that Frog-AR looks a very useful Tool. Thanks for sharing, keep safe.
Dear Larry, as always very much like and appreciate your concise explanation on these appendages.
Definitely will check out the frog AR, sounds very good 👍, indeed straightforward and accurate.
Looking forward to your helix build.
Pity though so many people lose interest in your more electronic vids.
I agree but detailed DCC videos still are pretty niche subjects whereas general modeling has a much broader audience appeal.
Like the other comments, I really appreciate you reviewing new DCC products and electronic topics in general for model railroading. I've learned so much from your books and videos and feel confident buying the products you recommend. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Larry. Sorry to hear your viewing numbers have dropped. I've never used DCC (and don't actually have a layout at all at the moment), but I find your DCC stuff very interesting and eye-opening to the possibilities, even if sometimes it goes over my head. I appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos.
Thank you for sharing. Looking forward to the building of the helix. 👍👀
I love the DCC stuff Larry, but I understand it's to for everyone 👍🏼
Looking forward to the Helix builds. Not saying the DCC stuff wasn't interesting but its a balancing act between both topics to satisfy both audiences.
Really enjoyed this one Larry. I read about the frog juicer, but did not know a lot about it. The tutorial for the programmable circuit breaker was also very informative. Have you done a video about the different types of turn outs ? Not the manufacture’s difference but the difference between a #5 vs a #6 turnout? I am specifically looking at designing a layout but it seems more guess your best when choosing one. Or is there a formula to figure out which # turn out is best to use while designing your lay out? Thank you for your time Larry !
I suggest you get a copy of John Armstrong’s book Track Planning for Realistic Operation. It is available from the Kalmbach Hobby website or Amazon. It is the reference book I turn to for questions like yours.
Very good coverage of the psxx and frog-ar. However, I need info on crossing signals. I have an automatic system purchased from a company called 'wehonest' which had goods reveiws and seems good quality. It utilizes 2 ir detectors and operates all right, but I have a double track main. How best to make it work for both mains? Do I need two more ir's? Is another system possible with one set of signals? Have you covered this problem in any prior videos? Thanks for any help. Really like your tutorials and don't despair about too much time spent on DCC. It is the name of your show!
Larry: Could you explain trip current in context with circuit protection, why and how you determine the trip current you need or should use for a PSXX.
I discussed the entire concept of power management in video 112.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry thanks for the lead to the info that I needed. I have always been under the impression that circuit protection modules for model railroads were just for handling shorts in the block that they were protecting and that they supplied the full amperage that the power supply had. I have now found out that they can also control the amperage to the block that they control.
Hi Larry. I rely heavily on your RUclips videos for constructing my dcc Ho layout. They are the best and most helpful I have come across- thank you so much. I have a divided my layout into 7 power districts and am using NCE power pro with psx circuit breakers to each district. If each circuit breaker is set to 2 amps will that be a problem because my powerpro is 5 amps? Thanks and regards
Ernie
Sounds like you’re doing exactly what I would suggest. The PSXs will share the 5 amps from the PH system and if you get to the point where you are overtaxing it then you could add a booster for more power.
@@TheDCCGuy fantastic! Thanks ever so much for your advice and prompt response. Another question if I may- I have a PSX4 and have just purchased a PSXX3 from Tony’s Trains. Are both compatible? Thanks again
Ernie (Australia)
Please talk about the ESU WI controlling 7 amp system it gets no better bets the other hands down. It have its own Wi Fi .
Tell them to send me a unit to do videos on and I will, too expensive for me to buy for one video.
Larry do you recommend using a Wye Leg or a Wye Tail. I don’t see the advantage of a Wye Tail over a Leg, thought you could answer. Thanks Paul
Just different ways to do it.
I've not seen any videos as yet on actually connecting a DCC system to a WiFi. Since a lot of things these days depend on doing that, I think a video on how to do that connection might be helpful at some point.
You should have watched the last video on the throttle where I mentioned that.
I appreciate your channel and information. I have a question about Tam valley juicers. I modified my peco turnouts to have powered frogs, each turnout is connected to a Mono frog juicer, my layout runs smoothly, but I don’t understand why some of the juicers show a red led and some have a green showing. What does this mean as my layout runs smoothly regardless,? I use NCE 5 amp system, my wiring is consistent for all juicers. Thank you for your help
The LEDs change between red and green when they reverse the frog’s phase (polarity). So have someone run a loco over these turnouts and watch the LEDs, as lo g as they are changing color they are doing their job.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you!!!I appreciate you’re lightening fast response on this subject, with what’s going on in this world, I feel like my problems are petty, but again Thank you, you’re a good guy and very smart!!!
Good morning...I really enjoy your videos. Question please, you said you get the RECHARGEABLE batteries from Amazon but i did not fully understand what you said, did you say they were MH batteries? I want to make sure i get the right kind. What about 9 volt batteries, do you know of a rechargeable long lasting replacement also? THANK YOU.
NiMh, nickel metal hydride. For 9V batteries I use PowerEx brand also from Amazon.
@@TheDCCGuy THANBK YOU
Good video Larry. Im disappointed the viewing figures have gone down because you've done some DCC content. Your channel is sub headed the DCC Guy so what do people expect? Hopefully, this is just a blip and you continue to do DCC content.
Im a little confused about using multiple circuit beakers where their combined ampage exceeds that of the PSU. Unless one has a huge layout, it seems to be 5 amps is suggested as a good ampage to use. If you divide your layout into say 4 blocks, each of 2 amps that means a total of 8 amps is required. In this case, would it be better to have 2 PSUs \ boosters each having 2 circuit breakers set to 2 amps each or, could you still achieve the 2 amps per block using a single 5 amp PSU?
Keep up the great work.
Yes, but if you set it up correctly you will never have enough locos running all at the same time in all your blocks to exceed the total booster amps-that is how power management works. Think about the circuits in your house. I would bet you that if you add up the circuit breakers in your electrical panel box they easily exceed the 200 amp service provided to your house. It works because you never have all the electrical appliances, lights, etc on at the same time. Power management for your layout uses that same approach.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry.
used from the packing
Hi Larry: Does the Frog AR do a better job of protecting individual turnouts from the impacts of shorts than the Frog Juicer? Is there a reason to replace the Juicers with the AR? Thanks.
I can’t think of any reason to replace existing ones as the FrogAR basically works on the same principle. I think the trip speeds are comparable but there may be some other reasons in some of the options but I don’t have time right now to dig into the manual to search for it.
@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry: Thanks for the response. Your videos have been eye-opening regarding the effect of shorts on decoders. I've been losing 6-10 locos during each operating session-scrambled/stop responding (7 operators, 3 hours). As a result of your information (and discussions with local modelers and Mark Juett at the St Louis National), I'm going to to replace my old PM 42's with PSXX's, and replacing an old home made power supply providing power to the Command Station, and add snubbers. I'm hopeful that the current limiting aspect of the PSXX will reduce the effect of shorts. Thanks!
I wonder #1 if these are better suited for the amperage of the Power Cab than the ones I have and #2 if once I upgrade to an SB5 in the near future, if I would have better results with the ones I already have??
My current Power Cab is around 1.8 amps. But, the older PSX1, which is actually less than 3 years old, the lowest available trip current is around 1.3 amps.
With it set for 1.3 amps it should work just make sure to use the low power setup.
@@TheDCCGuy I feel like I’m missing something cause I set the Cv49@ 1
Hey Larry,
I hope I understand it well, the circuit breaker does protect my command station aigainst produced shorts onto layout what will be eventually not detected from the command station?
My command station gives a maximum Amperage of 3.2 Amps to the tracks, so I will be in need of an arrangement of
2 × 2 Amps in parallel connected use?
Thanks for your help in answering my questions.
Ya, Ingo
The circuit breaker primarily prevents your command station booster from repeatedly turning on and off and overloading its electronics. If you carefully read the manuals they eventually say that allowing this to go on repeatedly is not healthy for them. With your low amperage system a circuit breaker that can be set low enough to maximize the output. One option is the NCE EB1 which can be set as low as 1.5 amps so two of them would allow you to power two blocks at 1.5 amps each. For more on power management see my video #112. Also, look at video #97 on circuit breakers as well as a couple other videos on using ballast lamps.
Hi Larry, just received my PSXX and have 2 questions;
first I used NCE power cab do I have to change the trip to use it in my switching yard and is ready to
Depends on the amperage of the power supply that came with the PowerCab. You want the PSXX trip current to be set lower than what the PowerCab is rated for. The default is 2 amps on the PSXX but you can easily set it to 1 amp using CV49 as explained in the instructions.
@@TheDCCGuy The power supply is rate at 3 amps so is it better to change trip current
Ah, you got one of the newer ones, mine is 1.4 amps. You could leave it at 2 amps then later if you run into situations where you exceed that and the PSXX shuts down then bump it up to 3 amps. At that point if the PowerCab is actually good for a little more than 3 amps then the PSXX should kick out first but if you run into situations where the PowerCab shuts down first then drop it back to 2 amps.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry your very helpfull Its always fun to check your old videos
Larry, I am using a walthers double crossover that I'm having shorts created when a loco enters the frog. Would the Frog-AR eliminate this problem and how would I connect it to the 4 separate tabs on the crossover? Would each tab get connected to one of the four outputs on the Frog-AR?
Yea, it should do the job. Just connect a wire to each tab and connect the other end to the screw terminals on the Frog-AR as I showed o the video. I used Frog Juicers on mine and it works great too.
Hi Larry, comparing your wiring to the diagram included with the PSXX are different. on the diagram the out put is reversed.
on yours you have both red on the top any reason
I just looked at their diagram and they show a black wire on top and a red wire on the bottom in all cases. On mine I used red and green wires but I always have the red wire on top and the green on the bottom. Color is simply color, it doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent.
@@TheDCCGuy ok but the instruction i have
input black on top and output red on top.
is it possible that there an mistake on their sheet
I have both the long and short versions of the instructions and the black wire is shown on top on both the input and output terminals. Mine are both for software version D specified on the top of the first page. They may have revised the instructions for a different version but I can’t see where it matters anyway as long as you are consistent.
UPDATE-I just looked on their website and the new one is version G and as you say they do have the wires reversed on the input and output sides. I will contact Larry Maier and see why.
OK, here is what Larry says. I asked whether it matters as long as you are consistent and as you can see there apparently was a change on the circuit board so pay close attention to the numbers on those jumpers to prevent problems if you mix old and new versions. I am surprised they did not point this out in the instructions.
Yes, it really matters, particularly if you are mixing PSX and PSXX. If you look at the J2 outputs on both the PSX and the PSXX, pin 1 is on the left and pin 2 is on the right for both of them. !HOWEVER! Looking at the input connector (J1) for the PSX pin 1 is to the right but for the PSXX pin 1 is on the left. If you don't follow the colors (which are keyed to the position of pin 1), you will get a short where the PSX district meets the PSXX district.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, so what i underestand I have to go respect the input and output colors on J1 and J2 as per instructions.
Well this will be part on a next video.
Larry, do you have any idea how to change the PSXX1 trip current default from 2 to a higher number using the Uwt50? Also I’m using the CS105 system Thanks Paul
First you can set it to values up to 4 using jumpers. Then you can use CV49 to set it to any value up to 10 amps. This is all explained in the instructions.
@@TheDCCGuyi appreciate your response, my question is how do I do it using the UWT50 I can’t find accessories in the menus thought maybe you knew something. I know NCE there is a button on the Controller, TCS there’s not. Sorry for the confusion I understand the instructions just can’t find the menu function. I’m new to DCC only had it for a month.
For systems that do not offer a specific accessory programming option you simply use ops mode programming to change CVs. See the instructions at the back of the manual for specifics.
Hi Larry I have some issues setting this up. I’m getting a “short” at the insulated junction between blocks. All my wiring appears correct. Any way I can speak to you or email with you about it? Not sure if you have any ideas on it. Thx. David
You’ll have to give me more info on your setup. Are you just using PSXX units or is there an AR involved?
@@TheDCCGuy I’m just using the psxx3 boards only
Is the AR250 compatible with a Digitrax bdl168, or will the bdl168 see the AR250 as a load
The (250) means this is video 250 on my channel. As for detection you can reduce the sensitivity of the bdl168 by adding resistors as described in the instructions. The bdl168 is 22 years old and no longer made so I have no idea it will work, best to ask Digitrax tech support.
I was not aware the digitrax bdl168 had ceased production this will be news to users. It is still listed in current production on there website. And my local seller can still import them from digitrax.
Sorry I was reading the material on their website and they were discussing the BDL16, the BDL168 is still in production.
So I don't have an NCE system. But rather have a Digitrax system How do I program with that?
Use the switch button and ops mode programming as described in the instructions which you can download and read for free.
@@TheDCCGuy I was hoping to be spoon fed, which is why I watch youtube how-to video's. Anyway, my layout isn't to the point where I will be able to play trains. Too much house remodeling in the way.