@@daxxydog5777 That's fantastic! Thanks for saving those machines. I've had a few hobbies over the years, but working on VSMs is by far the most rewarding and enjoyable.
Well done! I just bought a “project” of a neglected battered 221. Needs lots of work. I’d worked on ten 15-91s, which are very forgiving and easy to work on. So this motor assembly is demo and your explanation is great! Thank you!
Very welcome. Lala is the only featherweight I've worked on, but I enjoyed restoring the machine very much. Model 221 seems like a mini model 301 except for the motor and this external motor is made so well. Good Luck with your project. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp
Got the machine running and stitches great. I followed your tension video also. Had trouble but had to study and mull it over to see what I’d done wrong. Now! Works great ans is stitching like a million bucks! Many thanks Mr Andy!
@@PatriciaSpayd So happy to hear of your rescuing this machine, and thanks for that. It's the main reason I make my videos, hoping folks like you will find them helpful and keep the old beauties in service. I know it was a project, so congratulations 🏆⭐
Good luck with those grease wicks Andy! They are so confined on the 221, not sure they were ever meant to be removed and serviced. Wicks on the 15-91 and 201 are much more accessible and pretty easily replaced. Man, that 45 minutes flew by... thanks for all the effort you put into our collective education.
Thank you for watching. I can see why people say do not remove the wicks, but I thought they came out fairly easily. It's the springs in there that I'm a little worried about. I figure if I can get them out I can get them back in, haha (famous last words).
I sit here at my kitchen table with your video on my phone with this 221 rat trap to fix. After attempting it 3-4 times I finally got it apart, got the stuck brushes out (the springs came out but not the brushes) Took the little thing out in the garage and used Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner to blast out all that nasty carbon and clean the commutator. My electrician friend who is a fellow veteran, had coached me on MAF sensor cleaner and how great it works. She worked on a nuke carrier so she is really good with this stuff. I got the springs back on the Brushes. Whew. Thank you for all your great level of detail - I think you’re teaching us this is great!
It sounds like you are making good progress, so congratulations. I've heard of the Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner but it's too harsh for me. Flammable, and some of the components are ones I don't care to use; naphtha for example. Then the decomposition products like Formaldehyde, Formic acid, and carbon oxides. It is mostly Naphtha and 2-methylpentane and the oxides so it's a pass for me to use it. I'm glad the videos are helpful and good luck.
@@PatriciaSpayd I know thousands of cans of it are sold each year, and I'm sure there are circumstances where almost nothing else will do. I just try to find more earth-friendly chemicals for use in my condo. I don't have a garage or workshop space. I always get the SDS on products like this before I try them. They are so easy to find nowadays, not like when you had to write to the manufacturer to get them. Here is the SDS from the CDC website link for the Mass Air Flow Sensor Product; images.salsify.com/image/upload/s--1Rrhm33W--/me6b6eg1scczc2yu2l3k.pdf
What a lovely cliff-hanger, I enjoyed this so much I'm checking every day to see when Part 2 comes out... Will the felt wicks clean up good, or will they need replacing, and if they do - what'll we use and where will we get it? Tune in soon for the next exciting installment! Thank you Andy, this whole series is becoming another one of your real gems.
I hope so! I'm flying by the seat of my pants, as you can tell, haha. Looking for wick material this week, so far not much out there, but the week is young. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Andy! Now I know why I ordered a glass bottle with a dropper over a month ago! It’s been sitting on a shelf in my craft room, waiting for me to remember why I bought it!
Hello Andy, Just received 3 featherweights from Ga. yesterday, only 1 of the 3 needs my attention. All very clean machines and well taken care of. Just removed the motor (using your guide) and found thread wound around the shaft behind the pulley. Going to complete the cleaning and grease wick replacements. My daughters will be so happy!🙏🏼
@@andytubesewing1953 Good evening Andy, I had a chance to disassemble the Featherweight 221 motor today to clean and visually inspect everything. After initial inspection I noticed the armature looked like it consumed something and damaged it in areas, Not seen this before until I did a quick Internet search and found this.... fabulous-featherweights.com/blogs/introduction-to-fabulous-featherweights/singer-featherweight-motor-reconditioning Reassemble the motor with new grease wicks came home from work and reassembled onto the machine, motor still not spinning up to full RPM. Tried adjusting belt tension and making sure all systems mechanical are smooth. I will try a known good motor tomorrow and verify the discrepancy. Any input would be appreciated, may need to send the motor off to Carmon and April at the Featherweight Shop for a re-wire.
@@Irukandji01 My playlist for model 221 has a 5 part series for the motor, including cleaning the commutator of the motor: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Have you considered that the foot controller may not be providing full power to the motor? The foot pedal may be as old as the machine if it wasn't replaced before. People seldom clean or adjust the pedal but often replace the motor only to find they still don't have full power. What you do with your motor is up to you, but I suggest checking my playlist for rehabbing the pedal before you decide anything. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 There must be other pedal cleaning videos too. I'm too busy making mine to watch many YT videos.
Another great video, Andy. I will be opening a FW motor when I can get some time. I’ve opened one before. Very interested in the wicks/springs removal and whether soaking the wicks will clean and soften them up. Anxiously awaiting the next video. You are a gifted teacher and I love that you go slowly so we can learn. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're a braver man than I, so I'd like to see you remove and reinstall the springs and the wicks in the motor lube tubes. I'm sure I'll have to do it someday and I'll be looking for the Andy Tube video.
I am servicing a friend’s 1940 221. Someone filled in the lower motor brush opening with a hard substance. The upper one has a cap and is fine. I’m wondering about removing the whole motor, opening it up and attempt to chisel out the hardened putty. It’s honestly like concrete! Or, ignore that part and clean the commutator through the working motor brush opening. The unknown scares me, but I’ve successfully redone my own 221 motor with new brushes and new wicks. I think I can, I think I can.
I had a motor with a broken off screw like the cap of the screw broke off but the body of the screw was stuck in the hole. It was as hard as a rock because it was bakelite or something. I tried to use a reversing screwdriver to get it out. It didn't work. I tried soaking it with WD-40 and turning it out that didn't work. All my fooling around finally broke a little hole in the top and I could see it was hollow inside the screw. So I just took the can opener on my Swiss army knife and utility knife made the whole bigger and just kind of kept turning it left and grinding it and cutting up the pieces and it finally fell apart and came out. I was so nervous I was going to mess up the screw threads in the hole but I did not because I was so patient. I bought a new plastic cap online and it went in as smooth as butter. All that to tell you Candy maybe you have a busted off screw there
Thanks very much! After getting WD40 back spray in my face a couple times I came up with the dropper. Much neater. Hope you can tune into part 2. Take Care,.
Hi Andy, thank you for a very useful video as always. I feel for you when the screws etc just don't want to come out. That's the joys of Vintage. I would love to take apart my motor to give it a good overhaul. I suspect it needs to be done. I am waiting for my 221k to be serviced.
Andy, thanks for your videos. I'm from Uruguay and i love repairing these machines, but sometimes is hard to get some thing in here. I have a question about this motor. The field cord i think its called, that is wrapped with like a black tape, mine its a little fluffy, is it bad? Thanks
Greetings, Uruguay! This was the only featherweight motor I have done. I haven't need that problem on other SInger motors as you describe it. (I think it's called Field Core) There is a family company of experts here in the USA and they are all Gurus of the Featherweight Model. Here is their teaching page: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse and here is their page about motors: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/tagged/motor You may find the answer there. You can also contact them by email and I have received incredible help and info from them in the past. Here is their contact page: singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us You can send them a picture with your email question also. I hope this gives you a way forward to finding an answer to your question, Francisco, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@vaccavo Saludos a Elaine en Rio de Janeiro. Yes, The Featherweight Shop has excellent information. In my reply to Francisco two months ago I gave him the link to their webpage, the page for the motor tutorial, and their contact page. I hope he availed himself of that information and found some answers to his questions. Thanks for watching my channel.
Wow. I'm in awe of the way you just get in there and do it! Have you always worked on motors? What on earth did you do to prepare for this kind of work? I can't wait to see part 2.
50+ years ago I took a general shop class. We had to take apart and clean a small lawnmower engine, then put it back together. So you can see I am fully trained and certified, just ask Mr. Weston! It s a very interesting motor, IMO. Thanks for watching ✨
Andy can U do a tutorial on how to fix up a Singer 201 Belted type motor. I took mine apart but I need guidance on upgrading wiring. Needless to say it still buzzes...Im assuming that's electrical😳
I do not have a model 201 to show you. I've never seen a model 201 in person. You can download the Adjuster's Manual here that has information about the motor and wiring. imagespast.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/singer-201-service-adjusters-manual.pdf
I have done the wiring now on two Singer 66 belt motors and now this little 221 belt motor. For electrics, my fellow veteran and electrician friend tutored me. First learn to diagram the existing old wires and what goes where. Write everything down and photograph as you go. .
Really nice video!! Thank you! I am going to open mine and clean it. Could you please tell me what motor grease I must put into those grease ports once I have cleaned them ? I find special grease for featherweight on an American website but I am in France and I cant get it here. I’ve read on some websites to simply put vaseline. Would you agree with that? I am afraid of damaging the motor… many many thx for you response! Take care
I've also read that people swear by vaseline but testing shows it does not melt enough, so I always use the special grease. Sometimes the grease wicks are hard as a rock and no grease will penetrate down to the motor shaft no matter which you use. I have read about repairmen that advise 1 or 2 drops of sewing machine oil onto the grease wick to soften it and allow some penetration to the shaft. I suppose clear vaseline (clear petroleum jelly) is better than a dry motor shaft? This video shows testing several greases (maybe you've seen it) singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/motor-lubricant I have dealt with the folks at that website and they are very kind and considerate and have answered my emails. Perhaps you could ask them what you can do there since you can't get their product?
Andy, I have a 1941 and the band/motor covering with the Singer logo is on backward. Do you know if I can remove the band without opening up the motor? Or do you have a video that would show me how to slide the band off and put it on the correct way? It’s not worth risking damage to my motor but I would like the logo to face out as its supposed to be. Thank you for your videos. I have learned so much about fixing my 221’s, 201 and other Singer machines from you.
Sorry, Marla, this is the only FW motor I've worked on. I don't know if you can remove the band without opening the motor. I suggest you contact the folks at the featherweight shop. I don't know anyone who knows more about them. singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us There are most likely FW groups on social media, like Facebook, etc. who may have answers for you also. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
When I was repairing my motor, I ended up using some thin pliers to remove the cap that covers the wicks, and used pressure to put them back with new wicks and grease.
So you pried the little silver caps off? Twisting or straight up and off? Gripping the outside only, or one point of the plier in the hole? Can you tell I was contemplating doing that? I was worried I would damage those little things and was not sure if they were pressed on or screwed on somehow. I just decided to work from the inside b/c I want to see in there and do some cleaning. I'll see if I can get the spring out and then get it back in. We'd all love seeing a link to the wicks you used and the procedure you describe would make a great video if you ever have the time. Thanks for sharing and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I used the pointy pliers to grip the inside and outside, and did a light twist while pulling them out. They are pressed, not screwed, as you can see in this video: ruclips.net/video/otAj5FrGKZw/видео.html . Mine were not that long, about 8mm long (those in that video look like more than an inch long). The wicks I used are 3/4 of an inch long, cut from this piece: SKU 8767K22 from mcmaster.com (firm felt cord, 3/16" dia.) This is what I got: photos.app.goo.gl/8EVEQNECRviCuw7XA
Great video to see that cutaway motor. I'm really glad you mentioned the wick as I bought the same size and was concerned it's too big. What will we do with the 4'10"s of left over wick, haha? Thanks for sharing, Jesus.
@@JesusCliment The email from July 7th. I just read it again and my mistake. I was also emailing with a fellow about some parts he offered for models 15 and 201 that night. It looks like my reply to him was sent to you by mistake. I am sorry about that and didn't mean a snub or anything. 50+ emails per day are getting a bit much for me. I think. Thanks again.✨
Never fails, every time I get a new-old machine, Andy ends up having the best advice!
Wow! That's incredibly kind of you to say. I hope you enjoy your new featherweight and thank you very much
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank YOU! You also helped me rescue a ridiculously rusted 201 and 27. I love this hobby! 😁
@@daxxydog5777 That's fantastic! Thanks for saving those machines. I've had a few hobbies over the years, but working on VSMs is by far the most rewarding and enjoyable.
Well done! I just bought a “project” of a neglected battered 221. Needs lots of work. I’d worked on ten 15-91s, which are very forgiving and easy to work on. So this motor assembly is demo and your explanation is great! Thank you!
Very welcome. Lala is the only featherweight I've worked on, but I enjoyed restoring the machine very much. Model 221 seems like a mini model 301 except for the motor and this external motor is made so well. Good Luck with your project. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp
Got the machine running and stitches great. I followed your tension video also. Had trouble but had to study and mull it over to see what I’d done wrong. Now! Works great ans is stitching like a million bucks!
Many thanks Mr Andy!
@@PatriciaSpayd So happy to hear of your rescuing this machine, and thanks for that. It's the main reason I make my videos, hoping folks like you will find them helpful and keep the old beauties in service. I know it was a project, so congratulations 🏆⭐
Good luck with those grease wicks Andy! They are so confined on the 221, not sure they were ever meant to be removed and serviced. Wicks on the 15-91 and 201 are much more accessible and pretty easily replaced. Man, that 45 minutes flew by... thanks for all the effort you put into our collective education.
Thank you for watching. I can see why people say do not remove the wicks, but I thought they came out fairly easily. It's the springs in there that I'm a little worried about. I figure if I can get them out I can get them back in, haha (famous last words).
I sit here at my kitchen table with your video on my phone with this 221 rat trap to fix. After attempting it 3-4 times I finally got it apart, got the stuck brushes out (the springs came out but not the brushes) Took the little thing out in the garage and used Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner to blast out all that nasty carbon and clean the commutator. My electrician friend who is a fellow veteran, had coached me on MAF sensor cleaner and how great it works. She worked on a nuke carrier so she is really good with this stuff. I got the springs back on the Brushes. Whew. Thank you for all your great level of detail - I think you’re teaching us this is great!
It sounds like you are making good progress, so congratulations. I've heard of the Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner but it's too harsh for me. Flammable, and some of the components are ones I don't care to use; naphtha for example. Then the decomposition products like Formaldehyde, Formic acid, and carbon oxides. It is mostly Naphtha and 2-methylpentane and the oxides so it's a pass for me to use it. I'm glad the videos are helpful and good luck.
I got to read the small details on that can. Wow. Great to know about the formaldehyde and other nasty stuff!!
@@PatriciaSpayd I know thousands of cans of it are sold each year, and I'm sure there are circumstances where almost nothing else will do. I just try to find more earth-friendly chemicals for use in my condo. I don't have a garage or workshop space. I always get the SDS on products like this before I try them. They are so easy to find nowadays, not like when you had to write to the manufacturer to get them. Here is the SDS from the CDC website link for the Mass Air Flow Sensor Product; images.salsify.com/image/upload/s--1Rrhm33W--/me6b6eg1scczc2yu2l3k.pdf
What a lovely cliff-hanger, I enjoyed this so much I'm checking every day to see when Part 2 comes out... Will the felt wicks clean up good, or will they need replacing, and if they do - what'll we use and where will we get it? Tune in soon for the next exciting installment! Thank you Andy, this whole series is becoming another one of your real gems.
I hope so! I'm flying by the seat of my pants, as you can tell, haha. Looking for wick material this week, so far not much out there, but the week is young. Thanks for watching.
Sir, thank you for an easy explanation, sensible humor and above all your knowledge of 221&222
Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching my channel.🙏
Thank you, Andy! Now I know why I ordered a glass bottle with a dropper over a month ago! It’s been sitting on a shelf in my craft room, waiting for me to remember why I bought it!
They are very handy. I have a few for Krud Kutter, alcohol, oil, etc. Sometimes a drop is just what you need, right? Thanks for watching.
Hello Andy,
Just received 3 featherweights from Ga. yesterday, only 1 of the 3 needs my attention. All very clean machines and well taken care of. Just removed the motor (using your guide) and found thread wound around the shaft behind the pulley. Going to complete the cleaning and grease wick replacements.
My daughters will be so happy!🙏🏼
Oh, how nice is that! Your three girls will be so excited. It's an act of love, mom. 💖
@@andytubesewing1953 Good evening Andy,
I had a chance to disassemble the Featherweight 221 motor today to clean and visually inspect everything. After initial inspection I noticed the armature looked like it consumed something and damaged it in areas,
Not seen this before until I did a quick Internet search and found this....
fabulous-featherweights.com/blogs/introduction-to-fabulous-featherweights/singer-featherweight-motor-reconditioning
Reassemble the motor with new grease wicks came home from work and reassembled onto the machine, motor still not spinning up to full RPM. Tried adjusting belt tension and making sure all systems mechanical are smooth. I will try a known good motor tomorrow and verify the discrepancy.
Any input would be appreciated, may need to send the motor off to Carmon and April at the Featherweight Shop for a re-wire.
@@Irukandji01 My playlist for model 221 has a 5 part series for the motor, including cleaning the commutator of the motor:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71
Have you considered that the foot controller may not be providing full power to the motor?
The foot pedal may be as old as the machine if it wasn't replaced before. People seldom clean or adjust the pedal but often replace the motor only to find they still don't have full power. What you do with your motor is up to you, but I suggest checking my playlist for rehabbing the pedal before you decide anything. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 There must be other pedal cleaning videos too. I'm too busy making mine to watch many YT videos.
Another great video, Andy. I will be opening a FW motor when I can get some time. I’ve opened one before. Very interested in the wicks/springs removal and whether soaking the wicks will clean and soften them up. Anxiously awaiting the next video. You are a gifted teacher and I love that you go slowly so we can learn. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
thanks for watching. I bought some wicking and may just replace the wicks, but wanted to see if they are cleanable.
You're a braver man than I, so I'd like to see you remove and reinstall the springs and the wicks in the motor lube tubes. I'm sure I'll have to do it someday and I'll be looking for the Andy Tube video.
Thanks. I will do that in the coming parts; no worries.
I am servicing a friend’s 1940 221. Someone filled in the lower motor brush opening with a hard substance. The upper one has a cap and is fine. I’m wondering about removing the whole motor, opening it up and attempt to chisel out the hardened putty. It’s honestly like concrete!
Or, ignore that part and clean the commutator through the working motor brush opening. The unknown scares me, but I’ve successfully redone my own 221 motor with new brushes and new wicks. I think I can, I think I can.
I had a motor with a broken off screw like the cap of the screw broke off but the body of the screw was stuck in the hole. It was as hard as a rock because it was bakelite or something. I tried to use a reversing screwdriver to get it out. It didn't work. I tried soaking it with WD-40 and turning it out that didn't work. All my fooling around finally broke a little hole in the top and I could see it was hollow inside the screw. So I just took the can opener on my Swiss army knife and utility knife made the whole bigger and just kind of kept turning it left and grinding it and cutting up the pieces and it finally fell apart and came out. I was so nervous I was going to mess up the screw threads in the hole but I did not because I was so patient. I bought a new plastic cap online and it went in as smooth as butter. All that to tell you Candy maybe you have a busted off screw there
@@andytubesewing1953 oh! I get it now. I think I’ll try to remove it. Carefully! Thanks!!
That was a great idea to take out the brushes first. I saw why you did that once I got the motor apart. Whew!
Thanks 👍
As always, you are most informative and I thank you for that. Great idea with the eyedropper and wd40.
Thanks very much! After getting WD40 back spray in my face a couple times I came up with the dropper. Much neater.
Hope you can tune into part 2. Take Care,.
Hi Andy,
thank you for a very useful video as always. I feel for you when the screws etc just don't want to come out. That's the joys of Vintage. I would love to take apart my motor to give it a good overhaul. I suspect it needs to be done. I am waiting for my 221k to be serviced.
Yes, the joys of vintage, haha. It was incredibly rewarding to rehab this motor and have it run so well after. Much cooler running too.
Andy, thanks for your videos. I'm from Uruguay and i love repairing these machines, but sometimes is hard to get some thing in here. I have a question about this motor. The field cord i think its called, that is wrapped with like a black tape, mine its a little fluffy, is it bad? Thanks
Greetings, Uruguay! This was the only featherweight motor I have done. I haven't need that problem on other SInger motors as you describe it. (I think it's called Field Core) There is a family company of experts here in the USA and they are all Gurus of the Featherweight Model. Here is their teaching page: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse and here is their page about motors: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/tagged/motor You may find the answer there. You can also contact them by email and I have received incredible help and info from them in the past. Here is their contact page: singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us You can send them a picture with your email question also. I hope this gives you a way forward to finding an answer to your question, Francisco, and thanks for watching my channel.
Try the Featherweight Shop Channel here on RUclips. How to remove the motor, or something like that.
Saludos desde Rio de Janeiro
@@vaccavo Saludos a Elaine en Rio de Janeiro. Yes, The Featherweight Shop has excellent information. In my reply to Francisco two months ago I gave him the link to their webpage, the page for the motor tutorial, and their contact page. I hope he availed himself of that information and found some answers to his questions. Thanks for watching my channel.
Wow. I'm in awe of the way you just get in there and do it! Have you always worked on motors? What on earth did you do to prepare for this kind of work?
I can't wait to see part 2.
50+ years ago I took a general shop class. We had to take apart and clean a small lawnmower engine, then put it back together. So you can see I am fully trained and certified, just ask Mr. Weston! It
s a very interesting motor, IMO. Thanks for watching ✨
Andy can U do a tutorial on how to fix up a Singer 201 Belted type motor. I took mine apart but I need guidance on upgrading wiring. Needless to say it still buzzes...Im assuming that's electrical😳
I do not have a model 201 to show you. I've never seen a model 201 in person. You can download the Adjuster's Manual here that has information about the motor and wiring. imagespast.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/singer-201-service-adjusters-manual.pdf
I have done the wiring now on two Singer 66 belt motors and now this little 221 belt motor. For electrics, my fellow veteran and electrician friend tutored me. First learn to diagram the existing old wires and what goes where. Write everything down and photograph as you go. .
Really nice video!! Thank you! I am going to open mine and clean it. Could you please tell me what motor grease I must put into those grease ports once I have cleaned them ? I find special grease for featherweight on an American website but I am in France and I cant get it here. I’ve read on some websites to simply put vaseline. Would you agree with that? I am afraid of damaging the motor… many many thx for you response! Take care
I've also read that people swear by vaseline but testing shows it does not melt enough, so I always use the special grease. Sometimes the grease wicks are hard as a rock and no grease will penetrate down to the motor shaft no matter which you use. I have read about repairmen that advise 1 or 2 drops of sewing machine oil onto the grease wick to soften it and allow some penetration to the shaft. I suppose clear vaseline (clear petroleum jelly) is better than a dry motor shaft? This video shows testing several greases (maybe you've seen it) singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/motor-lubricant I have dealt with the folks at that website and they are very kind and considerate and have answered my emails. Perhaps you could ask them what you can do there since you can't get their product?
Andy, I have a 1941 and the band/motor covering with the Singer logo is on backward. Do you know if I can remove the band without opening up the motor? Or do you have a video that would show me how to slide the band off and put it on the correct way? It’s not worth risking damage to my motor but I would like the logo to face out as its supposed to be. Thank you for your videos. I have learned so much about fixing my 221’s, 201 and other Singer machines from you.
Sorry, Marla, this is the only FW motor I've worked on. I don't know if you can remove the band without opening the motor. I suggest you contact the folks at the featherweight shop. I don't know anyone who knows more about them. singer-featherweight.com/pages/contact-us There are most likely FW groups on social media, like Facebook, etc. who may have answers for you also. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Thanks so much@@andytubesewing1953
@@marlagibson6136 😊good luck.
When I was repairing my motor, I ended up using some thin pliers to remove the cap that covers the wicks, and used pressure to put them back with new wicks and grease.
So you pried the little silver caps off? Twisting or straight up and off? Gripping the outside only, or one point of the plier in the hole?
Can you tell I was contemplating doing that? I was worried I would damage those little things and was not sure if they were pressed on or screwed on somehow. I just decided to work from the inside b/c I want to see in there and do some cleaning. I'll see if I can get the spring out and then get it back in. We'd all love seeing a link to the wicks you used and the procedure you describe would make a great video if you ever have the time. Thanks for sharing and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I used the pointy pliers to grip the inside and outside, and did a light twist while pulling them out. They are pressed, not screwed, as you can see in this video: ruclips.net/video/otAj5FrGKZw/видео.html .
Mine were not that long, about 8mm long (those in that video look like more than an inch long).
The wicks I used are 3/4 of an inch long, cut from this piece: SKU 8767K22 from mcmaster.com (firm felt cord, 3/16" dia.) This is what I got: photos.app.goo.gl/8EVEQNECRviCuw7XA
Great video to see that cutaway motor. I'm really glad you mentioned the wick as I bought the same size and was concerned it's too big. What will we do with the 4'10"s of left over wick, haha? Thanks for sharing, Jesus.
@@andytubesewing1953 That's why i sent you that email offering you the rest of mine a couple of weeks ago ;)
@@JesusCliment The email from July 7th. I just read it again and my mistake. I was also emailing with a fellow about some parts he offered for models 15 and 201 that night. It looks like my reply to him was sent to you by mistake. I am sorry about that and didn't mean a snub or anything. 50+ emails per day are getting a bit much for me. I think. Thanks again.✨