I really like the idea of using templates and gauges for building, it takes the guesswork away and reduces mistakes. Its a bit like they used to do back in the very old days wher they would use a gauge for the individual project, such as a windmill, they never had rukers back then, and just used divisons of a standard length, its the way forward ! Great video
Such a good idea! I am constantly checking my marks and re-measuring. That would save a ton of time! I might even make a notched one so I can use it in a fret cutting jig.
I have that same Irving Sloane fret scale / ruler ,my 1st book back in 1982 was classic guitar construction ,What a blessing also made some flip clamps and used to boil walnut sides in a metal tray and that worked great.
Related to this. Working out where frets go, graphically. In a book, I had a very long time ago. They presented an acute angle that you could carefully draw onto a piece of cardboard or wood. The intersection of the lines, becomes the bridge saddle position. You carefully measure the scale length, along the horizontal axis. The end of that measurement becomes the position of the nut. Carefully project a perpendicular line from that point on the horizontal line, up to the angled line. Take a compas with a very sharp lead or a pair of dividers. Set it to the length of the vertical, perpendicular line. With the point on the horizontal line. Scribe an arc from the slanted line down to the horizontal line. Where this arc intersects with the horizontal line. Is where the first fret is positioned. From that point, project a perpendicular line up to the slanting line. Scribe another arc down to the horizontal line to locate fret number two. Etc Etc,. To correct any accumulated error. I ensured that the 12th fret was half the scale length. If it isn't the adjust the position so it is. Have I completely lost everybody. ?
At 1:00 Could you not lay the scale rule down at an angle, so it becomes the hypotenuse of a right-angle triangle? The base of the triangle would correspond to the desired (slightly shorter) scale length. You'd also need a try square and a very good eye.
@@thepragmaticluthier It's difficult to explain in writing alone! Let's say the ruler has Fender scale length divisions (25.5"), but you want to use a PRS scale length of 25". Measure 25" from bridge to nut and mark a centreline. Mark a 90 degree line from the nut end, a couple of inches, then lay the rule down with the bridge end touching the 25" mark, and the nut end moved away from the centreline so the ruler's nut mark crosses the 90 degree line you just drew. Then mark more lines at 90 degrees to the centreline, with each one crossing where it meets the scale ruler. This will shorten every division by exactly the same amount.
The 24" rule that I'm showing is made by Fowler. They make good quality products, not cheap, but not an expensive as Starrett. The 36" rule I'm getting a made by "Shinwa", an import supposed to be of decent quality. I certainly hope so because it was still $108.00. www.amazon.com/dp/B09HYXJJR9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
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I really like the idea of using templates and gauges for building, it takes the guesswork away and reduces mistakes. Its a bit like they used to do back in the very old days wher they would use a gauge for the individual project, such as a windmill, they never had rukers back then, and just used divisons of a standard length, its the way forward ! Great video
Such a good idea! I am constantly checking my marks and re-measuring. That would save a ton of time! I might even make a notched one so I can use it in a fret cutting jig.
Great advice, thank you!
Thanks for the class!
I have that same Irving Sloane fret scale / ruler ,my 1st book back in 1982 was classic guitar construction ,What a blessing also made some flip clamps and used to boil walnut sides in a metal tray and that worked great.
Related to this. Working out where frets go, graphically. In a book, I had a very long time ago. They presented an acute angle that you could carefully draw onto a piece of cardboard or wood. The intersection of the lines, becomes the bridge saddle position. You carefully measure the scale length, along the horizontal axis. The end of that measurement becomes the position of the nut. Carefully project a perpendicular line from that point on the horizontal line, up to the angled line. Take a compas with a very sharp lead or a pair of dividers. Set it to the length of the vertical, perpendicular line. With the point on the horizontal line. Scribe an arc from the slanted line down to the horizontal line. Where this arc intersects with the horizontal line. Is where the first fret is positioned. From that point, project a perpendicular line up to the slanting line. Scribe another arc down to the horizontal line to locate fret number two. Etc Etc,. To correct any accumulated error. I ensured that the 12th fret was half the scale length. If it isn't the adjust the position so it is. Have I completely lost everybody. ?
It's a very old method which in theory works. In practice, however, it's inherently imprecise.
i certainly would enjoy seeing the making of the mold for this new shape
This guitar will be made by the traditional (Madrid School? ) method; no mold.
At 1:00 Could you not lay the scale rule down at an angle, so it becomes the hypotenuse of a right-angle triangle? The base of the triangle would correspond to the desired (slightly shorter) scale length. You'd also need a try square and a very good eye.
?????
@@thepragmaticluthier It's difficult to explain in writing alone! Let's say the ruler has Fender scale length divisions (25.5"), but you want to use a PRS scale length of 25". Measure 25" from bridge to nut and mark a centreline. Mark a 90 degree line from the nut end, a couple of inches, then lay the rule down with the bridge end touching the 25" mark, and the nut end moved away from the centreline so the ruler's nut mark crosses the 90 degree line you just drew. Then mark more lines at 90 degrees to the centreline, with each one crossing where it meets the scale ruler. This will shorten every division by exactly the same amount.
Hi Kevin. Great information thank you. Could you please tell me the brand of rule you are using and the new one you have brought. Thanks
The 24" rule that I'm showing is made by Fowler. They make good quality products, not cheap, but not an expensive as Starrett. The 36" rule I'm getting a made by "Shinwa", an import supposed to be of decent quality. I certainly hope so because it was still $108.00. www.amazon.com/dp/B09HYXJJR9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
I have the same Ibex fret rule for acoustic steel string and classical scales. No idea where I bought it.
I have three of them and don't remember where I got the either, but I'm old.