Thank you for this great idea! Question, though: What method do you use to get the blanks in the first place? Re-saw on the bandsaw? Or can you order them that way from a supplier?
If only you could buy blanks! But no, they are a lot of work to prepare. They must be sawn radially (using a jig) from quartered logs of yew. For rosewood, the tree is usually larger, and the wood more stable, so it's possible to find more or less quarter-sawn planks, as I did. Then you band-saw the planks with a repeatable set-up (a sled that fits in the saw table slot), then you set up your blanks, make selection or combine them from different logs, depending on the supply and the species, and then you do this table saw planing set up. After that they are scraped (by hand or with a cabinet scraper on the bench, or both) then they are ready to rough cut and bend. Some species don't lend themselves to sawing (they burn or mark) some have to be hand-planed crosswise with a smooth plane in a jig. There is a video of that, but it relates to soundboards, but the same applies to rib blanks. It's a lot of hand work, even with machines to do the sawing, and no, sanding to thickness makes too many deep scratches, planing or scraping is better. Thanks for your question, and regards from Kelowna. Clive
@@EarlyMusicStudio1 Thanks Clive! I made a 6-course 15 years ago (still have it!) but I had a tough time finding wood for the ribs. Ideally I wanted rib material to be 2 1/4” thick x 24” long. Found some ash that fit the bill, but it was a nightmare to prep for resawing since it was rough all sides, my (decent size) bandsaw struggled to cut the ash ribs, and the bandsaw blade left a very rough kerf. Is a 2”x2”x24” turning block enough for a nine rib lute? Seems tight, no room for errors…Thank you for replying earlier, very helpful.
I doubt whether that will be enough. But here is an idea: use the beach ball design and combine two types of wood. Cherry and maple, ash and walnut etc. I have done many lutes from yew and rosewood, but these species are hard to find. For the NA species you can even use sawn flooring or offcuts from larger planks. Brazilian cherry, or bubinga are also good choices for dark woods, easy to find in smaller pieces. As to the bandsaw, you should get a rip blade with two tpi, and not be concerned about waste. Use single point re-saw technique. Better to be concerned about grain, flat is bad, quarter is good, so select your specie carefully. Also don't worry about cutting from the same log, with beachball it does not matter. You can jazz up the lute by using black or white spacer (dyed maple, walnut, hornbeam). If you look at iconography around 1600 to 1700, these lutes were popular, with many examples. Also, lutes with 13 to 15 ribs are more rigid and easier to fit than fewer ribs, paradoxically. More ribs suite the beach ball better, too. Venere, Tieffenbrucker, Frei used 21 ribs for smaller lutes, 35 for large. Bass lutes with 33 ribs were also common. Multi-rib designs are well suited to species such as rosewood and yew, where wide pieces are not easily found because blanks must only be 3 cm wide. These lutes often had curved joints to make selection easier, with some ribs tacking an S shape, some a C, some straight, depending on where they are on the body. Bending is then more crucial, but the rib is more easily fitted. At the top block the rib may be bent sideways. The outside rib is always the largest to accommodate scooping. MR lutes are much more rigid, and generally sound better, clearer, more high partials, more penetrating. c
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Clive, I like your infeed-outfeed roller extensions.
thank you this is very helpful
Thank you for this great idea! Question, though: What method do you use to get the blanks in the first place? Re-saw on the bandsaw? Or can you order them that way from a supplier?
If only you could buy blanks! But no, they are a lot of work to prepare. They must be sawn radially (using a jig) from quartered logs of yew. For rosewood, the tree is usually larger, and the wood more stable, so it's possible to find more or less quarter-sawn planks, as I did.
Then you band-saw the planks with a repeatable set-up (a sled that fits in the saw table slot), then you set up your blanks, make selection or combine them from different logs, depending on the supply and the species, and then you do this table saw planing set up.
After that they are scraped (by hand or with a cabinet scraper on the bench, or both) then they are ready to rough cut and bend. Some species don't lend themselves to sawing (they burn or mark) some have to be hand-planed crosswise with a smooth plane in a jig. There is a video of that, but it relates to soundboards, but the same applies to rib blanks. It's a lot of hand work, even with machines to do the sawing, and no, sanding to thickness makes too many deep scratches, planing or scraping is better. Thanks for your question, and regards from Kelowna. Clive
@@EarlyMusicStudio1 Thanks Clive! I made a 6-course 15 years ago (still have it!) but I had a tough time finding wood for the ribs. Ideally I wanted rib material to be 2 1/4” thick x 24” long. Found some ash that fit the bill, but it was a nightmare to prep for resawing since it was rough all sides, my (decent size) bandsaw struggled to cut the ash ribs, and the bandsaw blade left a very rough kerf. Is a 2”x2”x24” turning block enough for a nine rib lute? Seems tight, no room for errors…Thank you for replying earlier, very helpful.
I doubt whether that will be enough. But here is an idea: use the beach ball design and combine two types of wood. Cherry and maple, ash and walnut etc. I have done many lutes from yew and rosewood, but these species are hard to find. For the NA species you can even use sawn flooring or offcuts from larger planks.
Brazilian cherry, or bubinga are also good choices for dark woods, easy to find in smaller pieces. As to the bandsaw, you should get a rip blade with two tpi, and not be concerned about waste. Use single point re-saw technique.
Better to be concerned about grain, flat is bad, quarter is good, so select your specie carefully. Also don't worry about cutting from the same log, with beachball it does not matter. You can jazz up the lute by using black or white spacer (dyed maple, walnut, hornbeam). If you look at iconography around 1600 to 1700, these lutes were popular, with many examples.
Also, lutes with 13 to 15 ribs are more rigid and easier to fit than fewer ribs, paradoxically. More ribs suite the beach ball better, too. Venere, Tieffenbrucker, Frei used 21 ribs for smaller lutes, 35 for large. Bass lutes with 33 ribs were also common.
Multi-rib designs are well suited to species such as rosewood and yew, where wide pieces are not easily found because blanks must only be 3 cm wide. These lutes often had curved joints to make selection easier, with some ribs tacking an S shape, some a C, some straight, depending on where they are on the body. Bending is then more crucial, but the rib is more easily fitted. At the top block the rib may be bent sideways. The outside rib is always the largest to accommodate scooping. MR lutes are much more rigid, and generally sound better, clearer, more high partials, more penetrating. c
@@EarlyMusicStudio1 Thank you Clive for the wealth of info! I appreciate you taking the time to help.
awesome
I have considered a similar jig to do the same operation on an oscillating drum sander, but I imagine the table saw would be faster.
The table saw literally makes the wood disappear.