SOTW #14 - Tools for Satoyama Project - Mountain Kotanto
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2016
- An introduction to the Tools for Satoyama project with an overview of the process for making a Mountain Kotanto. More detailed videos of the procedure to follow, total build time was about 40 hours over 3 months...forging TimeWarp: • TimeWarp #4 - Forging ...
More about the process of making this knife here: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/08/pr...
more about the project:
Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided soil nutrients, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, timber construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer.
The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning.
The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing.
A clay tempered blade hand forged in a charcoal fire, water quenched with clay, sharpened with waterstones, and finished simply and humbly in the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands.
Read more about satoyama: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/to...
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About this knife:
Forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth, the blade profile of the mountain style kotanto is based on a kamakura sword and has more pronounced belly with slight drop point. The temper of this high carbon steel blade has been left relatively hard in order to hold a keen edge for tasks such as wood carving and hand work. This particular combination of steel and heat treatment is well suited to users who require a good edge and are willing to take care of it.
The tang is constructed in a similar manner to a Japanese sword requiring only a single bamboo peg to hold the knife assembly together. In addition to the sense of beautiful simplicity, this design allows the knife to be taken apart for cleaning, polishing, detailed cutting tasks, or major resharpening work.
The handle and scabbard are carved from local Nootka Cypress and finished with natural urushi lacquer. The handle is wrapped with cotton cord and then lacquered and the scabbard is finished with traditional ishimeji (stone texture) made with urushi and crushed tea leaves. A forged copper guard and removable peg carved from Bamboo complete the handle.
The blade is just under 5.75″ long and the overall length is about 10.25″. The spine at the munemachi is about 5mm thick.
Specifications
Nagasa (blade length): 144mm
Motokasane (blade thickness): 5mm
Motohaba (blade width): 30mm
Sori (curve): uchizori
Nakago (tang): 102mm
Tsuka (handle): 110mm
Koshirae (overall): 285mm
Katachi (geometry): hira-zukuri, kaku-mune
Hamon (edge pattern): suguha
Boshi (tip pattern): maru
Nakago (tang): futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tip
Mei (signature): hot stamped katabami-ken kamon
Koshirae (mounting): satoyama hamidashi style, issaku
Materials: reclaimed harrow tooth steel, copper electrical washer, Nootka Cypress, Maple, cotton cord, natural urushi lacquer, tea leaves, Bamboo
design your own knife here: islandblacksmith.ca/design-you...
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Absolute craft! Thank you for the videos, and your outstanding work!
Dave, Thank you soooo much for all the videos you have posted and for the beautiful art that you make. You have really inspired me to be a knife maker. It will be many years before I get even close to making something as beautiful as what you do. Thank you for making something that inspires others.Hopefully one day I will be able to afford one of your pieces. :)
the journey is long but worth the effort, keep it up!
Really beautiful work !
Beautiful piece!
I used the same wrapping technique to make a handle for my Ryoba :D
Excellent work :)
I enjoy seeing your videos a lot :3
Great Work!
love your work
Wow. That was fascinating! :-D
If I could be your student for even just 1 week I could learn more than many months time doing my own research! Every time I see one of your videos my desire to make Japanese tools and weapons increases! Keep it up!
glad to be of encouragement...and as you get more into the work the videos will likely have even more insight and detail to offer you...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith I agree! I'm always learning. That's one of the best parts! :D
Usta, elinize sağlık. Emek büyük.
(^___^)
Wow!great work
I really respect you. :)
m(. __ . )m 감사합니다!
Oh! You know how to write korean. :)
no, i only know three words (^___^)
Mantap sekali pisaunya..luwar biasa👍👍👍
this is the hardest thing I've ever done ...
🙌🙌👇👇👇👍🙌👍🙌🙌
I am curious how sharp the blade is? Awesome craftsmanship 👍👍👍
hard to quantify sharp, but it is very sharp (i use the same steel and heat treatment on my wood chisels and other carving tools)...this is good simple carbon steel and the clay process allows it to be much harder than usually possible with western knife heat treating process while retaining toughness...
Beautiful work! What´s that gras or straw you use in the lackering process, and why?
tokusa/horsetail? for fine polishing...if that is the one you mean...
Very Nice!
Great work. After the heat processes you don't use any sandpaper - the blade goes as it left the heat? I like this look.
yes, forged surface on the blade, only the edge is polished on the sharpening stones...
@@islandblacksmith Many thanks. I really liked how it looks, somewhat more natural than heavy sanding &c. Thanks again.
it is a very nice look, the forging needs to be quite accurate so it is a good challenge!
Absolutely wonderful! Have you ever thought about making bigger blades, like a wakizashi?
i am not ready yet!
Oh. OHH! I get it. Well, I'm cheering for you then, I know you can do it!
much appreciated!
Such beautiful work. Can I ask why no habaki?
tools for satoyama project knives have none by default, just to save about 5 hours off the process...but i absolutely recommend them as they improve the function of the scabbard greatly...
Watched the video again and i am wondering how the blade stays in the saya without a habaki? It is friction fit to the blade itself?
yes, the distal taper of the spine and the blade bevels will work but habaki is much better and highly recommended...
Ah ok thanks!
So you fit the saya with enough friction that it just stays there?
What about the clicks? What to those fitting marks in each corner do?
yes, friction, normally the last third of the habaki grips the saya...clicks? fitting marks? here's the longer version of the saya: ruclips.net/video/JvLFrP6DNhE/видео.html
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thank you very much!! I can't wait to start attempting some :)
So beautiful . What kind of timber
thank you! Nootka Cypress (Cupressus nootkatensis)
At around 2:00 you seem to curve the tang on purpose, but then it's straight in the next shot; why is that? I'm in awe of your hammer work and forging technique.
pre-curve the rectangular cross-section tang so that as it is forged towards triangular it straightens out...i will upload the longer version asap so you can see some of the missing stages...
TimeWarp version: ruclips.net/video/IXvVUHmsnaA/видео.html
Thank you very much for your great videos.
Hey, so what kind of wood is the saya made from? It looks like it carves like butter!
Nootka Cypress, more info in the description...
Beautiful work. What are the weights of you hammers? I am going to make some and was wondering what weight to make them.
everyone is different, but try a combo of 3lbs/1.4kg for the main work, 4.6lbs/2.1kg for the initial heavy work...
+Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Ok thanks for the numbers, I'm currently using a 2kg hammer for pretty much everything. Now I can make some proper hammers.
yeah, just try adding something in the 1.2-1.5kg and see which works for you...
+Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Cheers for the help.
That symbol where did you find it and what dose it mean to you... Because its identical to my family crest
excellent! if it is identical it is a first...usually the maru-ni-katabami-ken kamon has a ken blade pointing straight up at top center rather than one of the oxalis lobes/leaves...i drew it based on several traditional examples...we have friends who have similar too but have found none identical yet...by your name you must have roots down in okinawa? yoroshiku!
What's the name of the curved chisel you use for the saya
sayanomi (saya nomi = scabbard chisel), you will find several references and photos here and there on my website...
perfect
why do you put your hamon line so close to the edge?
historical suguha is my preferred style and area of study ^___^
oh ok. but arent you afraid that after much sharpening that the edge will reach the soft part?? that always worries me as a knife maker. I love ur insta page btw
thanks! i figure if there are 700 year old tanto in japan with a few polishes left in them yet, mine should be fine until the end of the world... ^____^
Please Make a video that some of your knife being test, thanks.
here is some testing of the yaki-ire hardening process: instagram.com/p/B_Y0JKKg-7p/
@@islandblacksmith thanks:)
Those string fibers must have sucked up a lot of urushi!
they sure do...it becomes a fairly solid mass like rawhide...
what was this brown powder you used for the saya??
traditionally usually ground dried urushi lacquer, sometimes charcoal or iron...in this case finely screened tea powder from reclaimed teabags ^___^
thanks
any chance of forging a kunai
i have some rough measurements from an antique one on the long term list...
O M G
外人がよくこういうの作るとき、焼き入れにOIL使うよね。あれもありなんだけどやっぱり水でジューってのがいいね
焼き入れはロマンがある
こういうの自由に作れていいね
日本は刀匠以外が作ると逮捕だもん
water yakiire is the best for me! yoroshiku, madamadadesu!! m(-_____-)m
なんでその家紋なの？
その家紋
丸に剣片喰（maru-ni-ken-katabami）だから剣が上に来ないと
上下逆さまだよ
you have noticed a good detail! yes, it is very mezurashi to see maru-ni-katabami-ken this way, usually only katabami-ken without maru will sit this way, with the ken down...
I see, i see
It is very rare
If you have a family crest on Habaki, you can do it as mamorigatana
From now on, make it regularly