TLDW #25 - First Lighting of the Forge & Antique Habaki Utsushi
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2019
- **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the intro of lighting the forge here: • SOTW #21 - First Light... ***more info below...
First lighting of the newly rebuilt charcoal forge in the island kajiba, more info on the project here: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/island... ...followed by stamping the tang and then hand forging and filing a classical tanto style habaki, silver soldered in the charcoal forge and closely based on an antique Edo period habaki. Polishing and patinating will be done after the saya has been carved.
The bending of the jacket is missing as the camera battery had died, that stage is shown in this video: • TLDW #21 - Making a Ta...
Watch the machigane area and you can see the solder begin to melt and flow around 26:52 until it is pulled out to stop the heating. The fuigo allows very precise air mix and heat control. When soldering habaki this way, some points are:
ensuring the fit is very tight (solder does not fill gaps),
cleaning the metal surfaces well to remove oxide and contaminants,
using a flux to prevent oxidation while heating (in this case borax and water),
forming a charcoal "oven" away from the direct air blast,
controlling the airflow for a reducing environment,
heating just to the flow temperature,
removing from the heat immediately,
allowing to slowly cool in air next to the coals,
pickling off any remaining flux in vinegar before fitting to the blade.
Note that silver solder (more accurately known as silver brazing or silver welding) is not at all related to electronics or plumbing solder, it is made from mostly silver and copper and requires far more heat and a different flux. In this technique the filler material actually forms a new alloy with the parent metals (similar to welding). It is more difficult to achieve but the results are very different and far stronger than lead or tin based solder joints.
The wire that binds the parts together, provides tension while heating, and forms the stand is a scrap piece of rusted steel wire, the oxide scale or rust helps prevent the solder from sticking and making it one with the habaki.
Machigane info: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/cl...
Making habaki: islandblacksmith.ca/process/ma...
Tanto geometry: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-...
learn more about the historical knifemaking process: islandblacksmith.ca/process/
wow what a forge set up I can feel the connection to nature from here. very aesthetic and beautiful
I really like that fuller great addition!
I love your vids and how you make your knives, I will more than likely make a tanto out of some cable Damascus this month. As always love the content and keep up the great work.
it is amazing what can be made with only a few basic tools! ...and do check the tanto geometry archives: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometry/
Great video thanks for sharing.
I can honestly say that I have never seen hoof nippers used like that ,now I have a new tool in my shop for bladesmithing
...hammer-powered wire cutters!
Great work! Thanks for sharing!
**WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the intro of lighting the forge here: ruclips.net/video/jr4p5DCy4M0/видео.html ***more info below...
First lighting of the newly rebuilt charcoal forge in the island kajiba, more info on the project here: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/island-forge/ ...followed by stamping the tang and then hand forging and filing a classical tanto style habaki, silver soldered in the charcoal forge and closely based on an antique Edo period habaki. Polishing and patinating will be done after the saya has been carved.
The bending of the jacket is missing as the camera battery had died, that stage is shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/gyCsxnXKi0o/видео.html
Watch the machigane area and you can see the solder begin to melt and flow around 26:52 until it is pulled out to stop the heating. The fuigo allows very precise air mix and heat control. When soldering habaki this way, some points are:
ensuring the fit is very tight (solder does not fill gaps),
cleaning the metal surfaces well to remove oxide and contaminants,
using a flux to prevent oxidation while heating (in this case borax and water),
forming a charcoal "oven" away from the direct air blast,
controlling the airflow for a reducing environment,
heating just to the flow temperature,
removing from the heat immediately,
allowing to slowly cool in air next to the coals,
pickling off any remaining flux in vinegar before fitting to the blade.
Note that silver solder (more accurately known as silver brazing or silver welding) is not at all related to electronics or plumbing solder, it is made from mostly silver and copper and requires far more heat and a different flux. In this technique the filler material actually forms a new alloy with the parent metals (similar to welding). It is more difficult to achieve but the results are very different and far stronger than lead or tin based solder joints.
The wire that binds the parts together, provides tension while heating, and forms the stand is a scrap piece of rusted steel wire, the oxide scale or rust helps prevent the solder from sticking and making it one with the habaki.
Machigane info: islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%25E3%2581%25AE-machigane/
Making habaki: islandblacksmith.ca/process/making-habaki/
Tanto geometry: islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometry/
learn more about the historical knifemaking process: islandblacksmith.ca/process/
Exciting!
Great video and love the new forge! Couple of things...just curious if you have any problem forge welding after soldering the copper in your forge? I've heard it can be a problem from others. On the other hand I think it's really cool your using the charcoal fire to do your soldering! A tip for you. If you create a small cage from old chicken wire or something a bit thicker, wire the piece to be soldered on the inside ,you can pile up the charcoal over it without fear of knocking it over and the solder falling out. Thanks for sharing!
as i understand it if there is actually a small piece of copper somewhere in the fire it can be an issue, it never occurred to me but i think soldering is fine as the temps are lower and nothing stays behind...the cage is a good idea, i use the rusty steel binding wire legs to build a stand for the habaki and my solder is friction fit so as long as it stays put after i start to heat it is fine (gotta watch the zinc on chicken wire too)...
I really like your work, it is really incredible, very few pay the attention that a habaki deserves. is as for habaki, how would you make a habaki for a moroha tantô? Or do you know any source to check how is its manufacture?
Hand craft excellence
15:06 great way of doing that, I assume it also compresses/pulls the copper tighter around the tang.
good video, could've been longer :P
i suppose, i definitely like being able to make the cut right in place, and the tang prevents crushing the jacket...it would have been a bit longer if the battery hadn't died around the time of bending the jacket...you can catch that here though: ruclips.net/video/gyCsxnXKi0o/видео.html
Thats wonderful, love your videos. The peace and quiet, absence of music.
How is the silver/copper solder made or where can it be purchased?
i usually use fine (pure) silver or sterling silver, but silver solder is available for jewelry work, it melts at a slightly lower temp so the copper is in less danger...
I love your channal.
Ah yes! I was looking for something to listen to while I make my buffalo horn habaki. I just finished the tsuba and will finish the plain bamboo saya.
Thank you so much for your guidance and excellent quality of production and creation. If I wish to speak in regards to more in depth questions, should I email you?
...email is always best...there is also search page here to start with: islandblacksmith.ca/search/
ey kinda weird request but i want to see the knife when it's finished
it will be a few months work yet to make the fittings, but there are other finished ones here: islandblacksmith.ca/category/featured-work/
атмосферно!
All the old fashioned but the camera you're shooting is a 4k kkkk congratulations, that's the real art and essence ❤️🍀
What did you use for the anvil?? Been searching and searching for donkeys years! Thanks:)
i had a 10"x18" (255lb) piece cut from 5" thick structural plate, more carbon would be nice but this works fine for bladesmithing...
Hi. What kind of wood your chose for tanto? Sr my eng so bad. Tks
i choose hounoki, japanese bigleaf magnolia...you can find links and information in the description on one of my longer videos for making handle and saya...
So that the hammers are not covered with rust, wipe them with linseed oil
i forge with water, and i live near a rainforest...they are always covered with rust no matter what! ^____^
I wonder if You every going to atempt something larger like wakizashi ?
someday perhaps...there are some fairly large tanto on the workbench but wakizashi is a different geometry and aesthetic so for now i stick to my area of specialty and keep learning...
@@islandblacksmith I must tell You that i just amazed by Your patience , skills and love for what You doing. Keep that amazing work because it's just beautiful. :)
What flux do you use for soldering?
borax in water, plenty of info and links in the description...
How did you get the anvil?
i had a 10"x18" (255lb) piece cut from 5" thick structural plate (A36/44W) by a steel company, more carbon would be better but this works ok for bladesmithing...
Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith Thank you
By 24:55 I figured it was time for a welder.🙄 ..Why does the blacksmith keep moving off camera when solving a problem 😑
can't silver solder with a welder, a torch works for this but so does the charcoal forge and the prep is the same, it's basically jewelers work...which problem are you referring to specifically?
@@islandblacksmith when he was trying to figure out the fitting on the Habaki (23:45). He went off camera and fixed the issue but, I didn't get to see how he solved it?
fitting it up before soldering? yeah, too bad the camera was in so tight...it is just a matter of aligning the small piece called machigane where the blade stops inside the habaki but then wiring it all together a bit small so the habaki will expand to fit after a certain calculated amount of cold forging at the end (to harden it)...off camera usually means getting a tool or trying to see what i am doing, or some places missing footage due to camera stopping or someone coming in to the shop...you might see some better habaki fitting detail here: ruclips.net/video/gyCsxnXKi0o/видео.html and there are some links in the description to articles with much more detail on the process for study purposes...
@@islandblacksmith Appreciate it. Love watching the for forging of samurai swords. I'm surprised that there aren't many Chinese sword forging? Their swords aren't quite popular..
they are out there, but japan modified the detail, aesthetic, and style and codified it in a lovely, iconic, and functional way that only japan can...
Japanese mother to children: eat all your rice or I'll send it to blacksmiths and craftsmen in the United States for them to make glue
yep.
Тягомотно, как кота за яйца.