This brilliant video started my Sprinter again after 2 days head rubbing.. even more it made me change my old mindshift of this van being purely a mechanical machine to that of it's dual life.. it's a computer as well! So I rebooted my van and it started first pop! From the north coast of Australia a BIG THANK YOU Florida Van Man!!
Should also add ecu relay that is under the steering wheel next to the signal lights relay! It driven me mad.. i checked so many things.. and it did not start in cold or hot days... i took the cap of the starter relay under seat.. and pushed the relay with finger... so it made that litle vibration and that engages possibly the ecu relay under steeringwheels fusebox.
Just stopped for a break on a side road . After coffee and noodles , talking to friends tried to start van and only get engine turning over sound . No ignition 😱 Stuck on the side of the road , no night out for me, just packet rice and canned salmon.. Can't complain, at least i have this. will try some of these tips tomorrow morning after the sun comes up. This video Gives me some hope. Thank you 😊 lol.
Hi. I just bought a 2003 sprinter with 81k and seemed to run great the 40 miles home. After sitting over night the next day it wouldn’t start. Thought it just had a bad battery so I jumped it off my truck, took awhile but it did eventually start. I’ve had to do that once more and then decide to charge battery over night. The next day it started after several cranks. I then moved it to the shop where I’m converting into a camping van and when I got there, while idling I reset the radio. It died while idling and haven’t been able to start since. No lights are on and I’m super confused. Never owned a diesel before and I’m afraid of tearing something up. Any advice? This video seems to address a lot of causes and when I look at fuse box on side of seat I don’t see a yellow relay at all just one grey. Thanks for any help!
6:44 worked for me!! Switched those relays, although I can figure out what that other relay does in any diagram because although my van now runs, it keeps stalling randomly...
Yet another great help Video,Although I am in the UK most of the information is the same on my Sprinter,when its not it still helps with the thought process on diagnosis Thanks
Thanks so much! Perfect video for T1N starting issues. Even though the engine battery tested "good" at the auto parts store, I replaced it and my Sprinter started right up. This was after I spend a day and a half troubleshooting other potential issues because the battery tested "good". Late in the day after the "good" test, I decided to conduct my own load test by using a 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter. With a moderate load of 120 watts (12VDC x 10 amps DC), the battery voltage dropped within 5 minutes to less than 11 VDC. Another recommended test is to simply turn on your van headlights and see how long they last. Bottom Line: Don't trust auto part store battery tests (good or bad). It seems that batteries with 36 month warranty last a good 37 months and 24 month batteries are good for 25 months.
Well, I thought the new battery solved the problem, but a week later, it FAILED to start. The symptoms were the same, flickering then solid dashboard backlight, followed by lights out when the key was turned to the start position. I tested connections to all fuses. This looked like a weak connection somewhere that fails when high current is needed for starting or headlights. I went to the engine battery, and checked all connections. Everything tested and look good. On my T1N Sprinter RV, there's a small black distribution box that's connected to the positive battery terminal. There are four red wires, four fuses, and 8 screws that hold in the fuses. Everything tested good, but I tightened everything anyway. - I went back to the driver seat, turned the key, dashboard lights were bright with no flickering, and the engine started! I'd like to recommend that you add "clean and tighten distribution block connections" to your already comprehensive test sequence. I will make a video that shows the steps and post it on RUclips.
Thanks.. #2 and #5 injector was bad. Tested with tubes with cam sensor disconnected...replaced the two injectors...starts up...giving it road test tomorrow
NO START! You are my go to guy for my 05. Engine cranks. Code reader says fuel rail pressure too high! Use your fuel line test for relief valve-no fuel! Bench test valve- no click Replace pressure relief valve and sensor-rail pressure too low. Rail pressure 190-250 Will recheck Purge system twice-no air. Lots of pressure to injectors. What next? CanBus?
Have you also tried the leak off test for injectors? We have two videos for that. Watch both and use clear tubing. There is no reason for the expensive vials I use in one video.
Excellent video, thank you very much. Just bought my first T1n 10.2005 here in Germany, the 2148 cc engine. This engine is the most common in Europe from what I see; would have preferred a 2.7, but couldn't find one for a decent price, only ultra expensive, or with high milage. I am very happy with it and should have gone this route a long time ago. Will watch your other videos as well. Cheers
Congratulations and welcome to the Vanmily! Settle in and get comfy, we have over 250 videos about T1N's and a few unrelated. What is high mileage? Mine is a bit over half a million miles. They don't get that high without replacing parts as needed while low mile vehicles can still have 20 year old parts waiting to die.
Thank you very much for the kind words and the reply! My van has only 193.000 km, so that's 120.000 miles. You are perfectly correct about the parts going out even with low milage just because of the materials and their lifespan (plastics, low quality rubbers, etc). I will be changing all the consumables on Monday, all the filters, aer/diesel/oil, the oil obviously, and also the spark plugs. I am having a strange thing with the engine and I am hoping it's going to be resolved after these changes - cold start, always perfectly fine, excellent strat. If I drive 20 minutes or even keep the engine running half an hour, stop it and restartet, it just won't start; it spins the engine and tries to start, but doesn't manage. Only after the engine is cold again, after about halt an hour or more it starts perfectly again. I am guessing spark plugs, or diesel filter full of trash inside, and it takes some time until these sediments settle again down in the filter... Could also be other things, clearly, but we'll see how it goes after these changes. Thanks again! Cheers
Great Demo thank you I went through all of this already I have 2007 2500 gas no crank no start, driving me crazy (key, relays ,battery and starter even engine ground wire all checked)
Great troubleshooting video. You are definitely the Sprinter guy. Came across your video by accident I was looking to buy a sprinter van in the future and was trying to research the common problems.
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
I had a no start no crank over the weekend and it turned out to be the main cable from battery to starter did a voltage drop test and found 10 volt lost on cable all clean and tight. Replaced with used cable and back on road. Like your videos keep them coming
@@FloridaVanMan I have fuse # 17 shorting out. It's a 15A to Eng. Con. Unit. So I have no crank or fuel psi. Got it towed to shop, hopefully a fix tomorrow. Thanks 4 replaying.
Hoping you can assist me as I have been chasing gremlins in my OM648 (2006 e320) for a few months now and not sure what to do next. I have the low rail pressure code and progressively replaced pretty much the whole fuel path from the cheapest item to the most expensive. I have replaced: - Fuel Filter. - Fuel pressure sensor (Bosch) - Fuel pressure regulator (Bosch) - In tank fuel pump assembly - the whole thing with the hoses (Bosch) - New hoses (from filter to High Pressure Pump and return hose from pump). (OE MB) - and finally just today installed new rebuilt high pressure pump (Bosch) Car seems to drive better than it did before the HP pump replacement but still throws the low rail pressure code albeit not as soon as it used to. I still have my old fuel rail sensors but not the HP pump as I sent that core back. I plan to put my old sensors back and see if that makes a difference but thought I'd write to you first. Car has 340,000km and I have not removed the injectors yet. I'm really at a loss what to do next and could use your guidance. I had high hopes for the HP pump to finally solve the issue but was quite shocked when it didn't.
Sounds like you have an injector relieving fuel to the return line, so not holding enough pressure in the rail. Search my channel for "leak off". There are two videos showing the same test on two different engines. Your engine is a bit different but has the same basic parts and will reveal the same way.
Boss vid! I have a issue with it not starting after having been switched off in the last 10 mins. Bit inconvenient for a nip to the shops. Also sometimes the engine stays on after removing the key but will turn off when I turn the lights off!
Not starting sounds like camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Does the tachometer move while cranking when it doesn’t want to start? If the engine keeps running with the key out, just put the key back in and re cycle the key on/off.
I have a '04 with 222K and it has been having starting issues all winter (long cranks and didnt want to start when it was wet out) the other day i was flying down the highway at 80mph and i heard a sound (over the music and road noise) like something lost pressure (sort of like a blow off valve sound) and instantly the van lost power and died, and now just cranks with no fuel delivery. I pulled codes with a CR Plus : p0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low p0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range . Do you suspect that to be the High Pressure Fuel Rail or Fuel Pump? How do you replace the in-tank fuel pump? It was a $350 tow, so trying to find some used parts which take longer to obtain. I will go through your checklist of culprits. . Thanks amazing video, not sure how you got such clear image under the van!
A sudden rush of air escaping is common sound when a turbo hose fails. There is a bit of humor with information in this video. ruclips.net/video/pa9kLnPdJA4/видео.html
Great videos great people Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us I wish I can share something with you as well but I just got my van few months ago and still working on the conversion Thanks
This is a great video! Would this apply to a 2008 sprinter as well? I pulled into the gas station got some diesel fuel pulled up to the front went in to get my change want to come back out she wouldn't start, just crank.. It was about time for my fuel filter so I figured that was it I changed the fuel filter no help still just cranking. I will give you a video another watch when I get back to my van. Thanks!
There are many similarities but also some differences. Is it possible you pumped gasoline and not diesel? Cold fuel on a hot pump in the tank can be the event that causes a bad fuel pump to quit working but there are many other things that cause low fuel pressure. Do you have a compatible code reader? Find me on FaceBook for 1-on-1.
An air leak is the most common reason but it could also be an issue of fuel getting there, just not holding enough pressure to start the van. We have videos showing leak-off test for the injectors and fuel rail, but first look for air bubbles in the clear fuel lines. One-on-one assistance is offered via Patreon membership floridavanman.com/donate/
Thanks man! Dealing with this right now. I’ve done everything but the battery tip at the end. Will try that and see if that helps, have done crank sensor and relay but still having issues
Great Demonstration. Although, 6:08 voltage drop by nearly 6 volts and simply glossed over? Of course this is a float charge, but pretty extreme not to explain possible starter failure. I recently purchased an 04 with a voltage drop at start of 3 volts, no injector signal and no crank rpm above 190. FP Good on scanner (4800 psi). CCA 1000 total on two batteries. What could be the cause of no injector activation? Thanks, -Justice
Well I primed the fuel filter and the fuel pump is drawing fuel but still turns over but no start. I’m thinking my next step is replace the cam sensor although I did here the radiator fan running and just seeing your video that relates to this watching it next! Thanks
If the electric radiator fan comes on when the key is turned on it isn't going to start. There are three relays under fuse box on steering column. Swap those around and verify fuses #16, 17 & 18. Verify the fuses on the front of the battery are passing 12volts to the bottom of each big fuse. ruclips.net/video/hRmXq4KRHdQ/видео.html
@@FloridaVanMan yeah I plugged in a code reader and just turned the key to provide power and the fan ran the whole time. Wasn’t sure about codes as battery had been dead for some time but got codes C1022, C1010 and C1024
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
I really only know the T1N Sprinters with 2.7 liter 5 cylinder engines. After 2006 they started offering different motors and everything changed. We had a 2008 just long enough to realize how different everything is.
hello sir, i'm an american in france with a 2004 mercedes 208 van issue. my van has always started. it cranks over, gives me an indication that it wants to start but does not engage. i noticed that the water sensor plug was not connected, in fact it's the wrong filter. could this be the problem? i'll try the fuel pump vibration in the morning, it's 9 o'clock pm here in europe. thanks for your video, you gave me a few tips to try tomorrow. cheers
Fuel filter sensor wire is only an alarm for water in the filter, so that is no big deal although it being disconnected will put a dash light. If you have a MAF sensor, unplug that. We have a video on testing the MAF. If the van still tries to fire occasionally but generally just cranks the most likely culprit is fuel pressure. Search our videos for "Leak-off" and you will find three videos. Two test the injectors and they show the same test on different motors types. The other is a rail leak off test. A failing injector will make starting very difficult but a failing rail pressure valve will often cause no start at all.
Hi.Great video as always.I am big fan in Vancouver.i have problem with my 2001 Mercedes Benz Sprinter 316cdi. It crank for way too long -for about 7 sec or more and than it starts.It starts after all but it's annoying.Its not temperature related. I replaced glow plugs,glow plugs Control unit,cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors,new fuel filter and checked fuses. If you have any idea it would greatly appreciate. Thank you Pavel
We have a video for testing the glow plugs with a volt meter and fused wire. You can look for air bubbles in the plastic fuel lines at the front of the engine. Any bubbles in there means you have a leak. I think your 2001 has OM612 engine with no fuel pump in the tank, so it sucks fuel to the front of the engine rather than push it. This allows any leak to let air in causing slow starts as all the air must be sucked through first.
@@FloridaVanMan Ok thanks.i will inspect my fuel lines very carefully.I don't think glow plugs is the issue as i replaced all 5 just last summer.This problem was the reason why I replaced them and it didn't help. Will keep you posted.Thank you.
@@FloridaVanMan hello. Thank you so much for this tip.I ended up doing all fuel lines and van starts Lika a champ now.Is there anyway i can send you some appreciation?Your chanel is so useful. Also have one more problem that keep coming back.I am slowly getting air in break system.I have new reservoir and master cylinder,power bleed done and pedal is getting soft again.Any idea on this one.Thank you very much. Pavel
@@pavelhusek2367 Are yo sure it is getting air in? Or maybe just the ABS pump failing? If bleeding doesn't fix the problem it is probably the pump. Our videos are made possible by viewer like you. Donations are greatly appreciated and easily made from our website. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan Hi.I sent you some coffee.Thank you. ABS light is not on.but did break bleed twice and always come back and always have air in lines when doing break bleed.But just realized it might be air in abs unit and will have to do it with obd scanner. I can't think of anything else.
Gonna check these parts hopefully it will start. My issue is turn key and get nothing, all dash light are on & installed a new battery. Jumped the starter and it engages & turns over but won't start. Hopefully its the relay 🙏 thx your video was helpful !
Mine does the exact same thing.. almost like something in the park shift lever is screwing up.. but it only does it once or twice every 6 months.. annoying, but a jiggle always fixes it..
Hey I got a 2008 frieghtliner sprinter with the Mercedes diesel motor. It cranks but wont start. I changed the crank sensor but the tachometer doest bounce. Also only starts if I spray starting fluid. Any idea thanks.
First STOP using starting fluid. That is for gasoline engines with spark plugs and an easy way to damage your diesel. Next, get a proper code reader and let the van tell you why it can't start. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
Great videos,my sprinter won't start whe n glow plug light is on,and most of the time it does not go out,I have to toggle ignition off and on until eventually the light goe out and the van starts,ever seen this problem.2000 sprinter 313
Are you in the UK? Vans have some different common problems over there, different ECM and engine options. Percussive diagnosis on the fuse box might give temporary relief. (hit it!) The welded brass connections inside the fuse box can be troublesome at this age. If smacking the fuse box does nothing I'd try unplugging the battery for 30 seconds and touching the battery leads together to drain any capacitive current, giving the ECM a fresh reboot. If that works reliably find a repair center for the ECM.
Very informative video, Thank you Florida Van Man. I have a 2003 Dodge Sprinter with the inline 5 cyl 2.7 mercedes diesel engine. My van will not start unless I spray into the air intake with either diesel fuel or starting fluid. After it starts, it will run all day. Shut it off after driving for hours, it needs a spray to start even then when thoroughly warmed up. It seems to lack power, but given distance it will accelerate to 80 mph, running at around 2800 rpm. The motor will only rev to about 4000, but that's fine with me, don't need more than that. The rectangular diesel fuel 'transfer pump' was replaced with a bosch pump by the previous owner. He thought that was the issue, it was not so he sold it to me. Any ideas what my no start issue might be caused by ? It's obviously fuel related, but might be some sensor that is not allowing the fuel to flow at starter motor cranking speeds, only after the starting fluid fires it up. Thank you for any assistance that you might offer, Steve
Most likely the high pressure fuel pump, but could also be the fuel rail releasing pressure or one of the injectors leaking to the return lines. Here is how to test that: ruclips.net/video/aB4d8xyZwU8/видео.html We have links in many video descriptions for a diagnostic code reader that may be very helpful in determining where the problem lies. Autel AP200
Thanks for this video. Can you explain what the "burst" relay does, the one that you borrowed to swap out with the fuel pump relay? Thanks for the answer and thanks for you work here.
Thinking about picking up an airstream class B 2005 with 27000 original miles, it has the 2.7 in it. looks in nice shape. people that own it are to old to travel anymore.
very interesting ! i have a Sprinter 310 D (OM 602 engine 2,9 l, 5 cyl, 102 PS) model 2000 and it suddenly cut while it was running perfectly well. I observe that the heat lamp is no more switching off and there is no more the clic that i could hear in the cabin, changed the 2 relays as shown inthe video, and i also changed the heater timer box on the right side of the engine.. Would you have an idea of what could be the failing component (That normally makes a clic after few seconds of ingnition ON).. Thank you for your help
I'm hoping a viewer can help you with this. I'm not familiar with the click you hear. I think you are referring to glow plugs, but they will not cause van to cut off. A good code reader should help with the engine cut-off symptom.
Hi! I have a 2005 with cold start troubles. Replaced all fluids and filters, camshaft sensor, and all glow plugs, battery tested good. Only happens 30% of the time. Once I get it running it turns right back on no problem. Been to 2 shops for help with no luck. They said pressures look good so I’m assuming that rules out fuel delivery issues. Maybe injector giving out? Any advice would be great thanks! 🙏
It could be one injector allowing fuel pressure to leak off, returning to the tank and not holding enough pressure to fire-up the injectors. There are several more likely culprits in the pressurized fuel system. Without reading codes you are throwing darts in the dark. Get the AP200 from our links page then watch the video on setup for a Sprinter. I offer one-on-one help to our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
Accessible from the side access, the yellow one is for the in-tank fuel pump (2004-2006). Older vans won't have that relay. The black or grey one is the start relay. Deeper under the seat is different for almost every van. Every change in factory options changes the layout of the relays under the front edge of the seat base and testing is the only way to discover which relay does what.
If you're having repeated CRANKSHAFT position sensor problems, I have read that a cracked flex plate or timing issues could cause that. Repeated CAMSHAFT position sensor issues on the other hand could be wires or something bouncing around under the valve cover.
at 5:55 How is my van running with out that yellow fuel pump replay? I runs sort of/sometimes, with out that Fuel Pump Relay on the left side on the seat, looks like all of em are still under the middle top area? probably just going to buy one to fill in the gap hopefully that helps my problem.
Older 2002 & 2003 Sprinters won't have that relay because they don't have an electric fuel pump. Rather than an in-tank electric, you'd have a manual low pressure pump on the front of the engine, above the high pressure fuel pump.
So your van has a 14 pin round diagnostic port? The AP200 linked on our products page and this adaptor made by Autel. www.autelsale.co.uk/wholesale/mercedes-benz-14pin-connector-for-maxisys-ms908-and-ms908p.html?fbclid=IwAR05zrYl9NBm7tZg9tByjaEoRfO9gy26TmOWjdAN97zNRwHrFmIVHo7cabY
@@FloridaVanMan thank you, so withe the adaptor it should work? Just bought locally one and it works with a simple code reader, couldn't connect with computer, i was wondering if I should try with this ap200. Thanks 🙏
@@karolinarej7837 I'm told this adaptor works with the AP200 on Sprinters having the round plug. We don't have any round plug vans in the USA so I can't verify it myself... but I grabbed this link from a conversation where a few folks confirmed it worked for them where other adaptors had not.
I purchased the Autel AP200 from your amazon link. I have a 2005 T1n freightliner sprinter. It says not supported when i enter the VIN . Do i need a different scanner?
Is there anything special about jump starting a 2006 Sprinter T1N (308cdi in our part of the world). Is it alright to connect to the battery terminal in the engine bay, or will this damage the ECU. Also what about Solid State jump starters, again is it alright to just connect to battery terminals (my battery is in engine bay). I cannot see any additional terminal meant for jump starting like in the newer sprinters. I was looking forward to see this mundane topic of jump starting, but he skipped it altogether.
Nothing special about jumping our vans. Jumper leads go directly to the battery positive and the black lead can go to the battery or any good ground on the van. The ground strap between body and engine is often a weak point that can be identified by moving the black jump lead to the engine.
Most UK model Sprinters won't have an electric fuel pump. They have a low pressure pump on the front of the engine right next to the high pressure pump. Both are cam driven.
@@aldinoz No, right next to the injection pump is a smaller sucking pump that pulls fuel from the tank through the filter then pushes fuel into the high pressure pump.
Se problem no start only crank. Will start with starter fluid in air intake. but my van 2001 sprinter an has no in tank fuel pump. Can't find pump relay . Is there something similar 🤔
A 2001 won't have a pump in the tank or a relay. Starter fluid is a really bad idea. Use diesel fuel in a spray bottle. It works almost as well and is a LOT safer for your engine! Since either does start it we know it is trying to run just not getting enough fuel pressure to start. Likely culprits are injector or rail leak-off. We have tests for both. Search "leak-off" at floridavanman.com/
Hi, I am getting long crank problems so it's slow to start up and threatens not too. Also I stalled once recently and its is dying on hills and then goes into limp mode. I changed the fuel filter after an air blockage in the system and also replaced two injector seals that were leaking. What should I do now as the problems have not resolved. There is no EGR valve on my 2004 model so i cant go that route. Thanks.
MaxiAp200 is a download that comes with the Autel AP200 bluetooth dongle. The app won't work with other dongle brands and the AP200 is getting hard to find.
Any guess on why lights and accessories go on, no start error, but when turning over to start it automatically shuts off and I have to disconnect the battery terminals to get lights and accessory power? Thanks!
So it starts to turn the engine and then seems like it disconnects from the battery? Everything stops and the dash goes dark until you unhook the battery? And it does this occasionally or did it start doing this and hasn't run since? Sounds like an aftermarket alarm system with engine cut-off. Maybe a blown fuse to the accessory input of the alarm. If you don't have an aftermarket alarm I would consider cleaning the ground points near the battery, at the engine and under driver seat. If all that doesn't work, check all fuses, especially #7 & then smack the crap out of the fuse block under the steering wheel.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks a bunch! Gonna try this after work. It started doing it and I was able to correct it by disconnecting the battery. Gonna try this after work
Great video thx. I have an issue with my 2004 sprinter they start, but shut off right away. Everything is good fuel pump, fuel filter,high pressure pump,all sensors is OK.Do you have an idea what happened with my truck?
Yes I do! When they stall immediately after starting it is the MAF 99% in my experience. Unplug the MAF and it will run with reduced power on acceleration. Get a new MAF and see if more needs to be done. A failed MAF can put the ECM in a bad mood. We can cheer it up. ruclips.net/video/3nylx7bZO0g/видео.html
Excellent video. I have a 2021 Leisure Travel Van (Unity) which is built on a 2020 Sprinter 3500. It has less than 12000 miles on it and haven't had any issues until now. Drove it from OH to FL in December, no problems at all. Came home, parked it in the driveway, and it hasn't started since. I push the ignition button, all the lights on the dash come on, it does the oil check, etc, but NOTHING happens. Doesn't even try to crank. Everything else (lights, radio, etc) seems to work fine with the ignition on. I've tried all 3 key fobs, checked all the fuses. Very frustrating. My next step is to call Mercedes road-side assistance and hope I still have some coverage. :( Any ideas outside of what you already have in this video?
Hey @FloridaVanMan I'm in Australia with 2003 413 4Cyl Sprinter and after a recent fuel filter change it's developed a strange no-start problem, it will start off the key with no problem...run for a few seconds, then stop.... now it will take up to 8 attempts to start then it starts and its back being its normal self. This situation has happened before when I changed the fuel filter..Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Strange symptoms, could be an air-lock but I'm leaning toward something going wrong as the ECM changes from default startup values to read sensor values. If you have a meter like Autel AP200 look at the live data, specifically MAF value, rail pressure & EGR value if you have that. Watch it at startup thru stall, then watch again at startup when you expect it to be normal self. Something will probably be different a moment before the van stalls.
For a Sprinter we use this AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft Don't get the red one. It will need annual renewal at $19.99 but the one I linked will give you one free download for life. The download you want is Benz_Sprinter. And after making note of all the codes, clear them and drive to see what comes back. The new codes are all you need to worry about. The ones that don't come back may have been there for years, or caused by a low battery giving insufficient voltage to many sensors.
Good morning sir. I have a 2003 2500 sprinter and my van won’t start. My van doesn’t have a fuel pump relay under the seat like your video I think cause older. Any suggestions where it would be at?
The starter relay is under the driver seat and you should be able to hear & feel it click when turning the key to start. We could check the contacts with a volt meter to ensure you are getting voltage to it in each position. Next time it doesn't start, try putting the gear sector in Neutral to try again. Be sure to use the brake and don't forget to put the van back into park if it doesn't help. Many folks have reported issues with the fuse block under the steering wheel. This fault can be isolated by holding the key in start position while giving the fuse block a good Whack!
I have a 2005 sprinter 2500 diesel van that has been converted to a RV. This van has a freightliner badge. The van will not start. The first problem with a no start could be fixed by removing the negative cable and reconnecting it. This worked for a while. Next the dash would light up but the van would not crank. Now when the key is turned on the van the power blinks on and off repeatedly. I replaced the engine control relay but it made no difference. Have you ever had this problem and do you have any thoughts about how to fix the problem?
Yep! I'll bet $1 the short battery negative cable has a bad connection. The ground point on the firewall right there is notorious and the cable going into the lead battery clamp is often problematic. Replace that short cable and clean the firewall connection with wire brush. Use battery grease available in $1.99 pouch at the register of every auto parts store. Be sure the battery has a good charge and let me know if this does not resolve the problem. I have my 'double or nuthin' bet' already loaded. :)
Question, my 2003 sprinter Freightliner van does not have the extra relays that are in this video It has one black one. The numbers do not match the ones underneath the seat. And mine I had to take the seat out to access them. Please please please someone help me It has been down now for 2 months and when I turn the ignition on there is no noise or buzzing from the gas tank. So I want to start with the relay. Is there any other fuses or relays?!?! I am a complete loss and frustrated to no end
Very helpful information as always. I have a similar problem I am in California otherwise I would bring the van to you. The van starts randomly I had to hit under the column form time to time and it works. When it doesn't work you'll hear the initial beep beep beep and the cooling fun starts running but not ignition, no cranking, nothing. I was told that the whole ECU computer, immobilizer and key w ignition needs to be replace. any suggestions?
SOS Diagnostics will repair the ECU for $600-$800. You will have to send skreem & key chip with because the computer is being reprogrammed. If you get desperate and find it unwilling to start at all, try sparking the battery with an 18 volt drill battery. It will only get worse from here on out without being repaired. There may be cheaper options on eBay, but SOS has been the go-to for years. One of our own vans, the red camper striped one, had this problem in 2013 and it’s been solid for 7 years. -Mike
NEED HELP! My sprinter fuel system was working perfect but I had to pull the engine for repairs and install it back, now the high pressure fuel pump won't allow the fuel to pass through it. I replaced all the sensors and regulators. Something is telling the computer the pressure is too high but that's not possible because very little fuel is going into the fuel rail. Will the camshaft sensor stop the high pressure pump from pumping, I will check that next.
Cam shaft sensor isn't your issue. I'll bet a dollar you have two plugs swapped. Look at the plugs on the high pressure fuel pump. The larger plug should have a 90 degree bend in the plastic plug. If the wires come out of that plug straight, swap it with the plug on your crankcase breather hose. The hose heater is where the straight plug goes. Join me on Patreon for one-on-one help. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan Will it not work if the transmission is empty of fluid and also the coolant is empty? I just wanted to hear it start before finishing everything. I guess I'll put all that together before I try again.
@@Shane71170 Transmission fluid and coolant will not prevent engine starting. We have videos for testing fuel pressure from the tank, injector leak-off and rail leak-off.
Your engine won't warm efficiently just sitting in park. As soon as you can clear the windows start driving gently. A cold running engine is when the most friction-wear occurs and it warms best under a light load. That said... I'm Florida-Man so what do I know about cold climate??? LOL
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This brilliant video started my Sprinter again after 2 days head rubbing.. even more it made me change my old mindshift of this van being purely a mechanical machine to that of it's dual life.. it's a computer as well! So I rebooted my van and it started first pop! From the north coast of Australia a BIG THANK YOU Florida Van Man!!
THIS is exactly what I look for in a rosier video. To the point. In depth description and demonstration..... ugh fantastic!!
Should also add ecu relay that is under the steering wheel next to the signal lights relay! It driven me mad.. i checked so many things.. and it did not start in cold or hot days... i took the cap of the starter relay under seat.. and pushed the relay with finger... so it made that litle vibration and that engages possibly the ecu relay under steeringwheels fusebox.
Brother you did a perfect quick simple rundown of the basic possible issues. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!
Just stopped for a break on a side road . After coffee and noodles , talking to friends tried to start van and only get engine turning over sound . No ignition 😱 Stuck on the side of the road , no night out for me, just packet rice and canned salmon.. Can't complain, at least i have this. will try some of these tips tomorrow morning after the sun comes up. This video Gives me some hope. Thank you 😊 lol.
What was the cause?
A jump start may have helped him straight away.
Last month I bought beautiful Mercedes Sprinter from 2004. Thank you for your informative videos and all the work :)
Welcome to the Vanmily! I'll be here when questions come up or you can find me on FaceBook facebook.com/groups/floridavanman/
Hi. I just bought a 2003 sprinter with 81k and seemed to run great the 40 miles home. After sitting over night the next day it wouldn’t start. Thought it just had a bad battery so I jumped it off my truck, took awhile but it did eventually start. I’ve had to do that once more and then decide to charge battery over night. The next day it started after several cranks. I then moved it to the shop where I’m converting into a camping van and when I got there, while idling I reset the radio. It died while idling and haven’t been able to start since. No lights are on and I’m super confused. Never owned a diesel before and I’m afraid of tearing something up. Any advice? This video seems to address a lot of causes and when I look at fuse box on side of seat I don’t see a yellow relay at all just one grey. Thanks for any help!
Thanks for posting, always learning something here on your channel.
Thanks for helping light the way...
Thank You! Happy to help.
6:44 worked for me!! Switched those relays, although I can figure out what that other relay does in any diagram because although my van now runs, it keeps stalling randomly...
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO AND NO SCREAMING GUITAR MUSIC IS A RELIEF FOR THIS GRUMPY OL FART! LOL.. THANK YOU! GREAT VIDEO, NEW SUB FROM THE 641..
Yet another great help Video,Although I am in the UK most of the information is the same on my Sprinter,when its not it still helps with the thought process on diagnosis Thanks
You Rock Florida Van Man. Thanks for the information!
👍😊
Had an issue on my 2005 311cdi and all those tips helped me identify the faulty relay Thank you
Thanks so much! Perfect video for T1N starting issues.
Even though the engine battery tested "good" at the auto parts store, I replaced it and my Sprinter started right up. This was after I spend a day and a half troubleshooting other potential issues because the battery tested "good". Late in the day after the "good" test, I decided to conduct my own load test by using a 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter. With a moderate load of 120 watts (12VDC x 10 amps DC), the battery voltage dropped within 5 minutes to less than 11 VDC. Another recommended test is to simply turn on your van headlights and see how long they last. Bottom Line: Don't trust auto part store battery tests (good or bad). It seems that batteries with 36 month warranty last a good 37 months and 24 month batteries are good for 25 months.
Agree 100% ^^^^ One thing worse than parts store battery testing is parts store code reading. Always wrong when it comes to Sprinters.
Well, I thought the new battery solved the problem, but a week later, it FAILED to start. The symptoms were the same, flickering then solid dashboard backlight, followed by lights out when the key was turned to the start position. I tested connections to all fuses. This looked like a weak connection somewhere that fails when high current is needed for starting or headlights. I went to the engine battery, and checked all connections. Everything tested and look good. On my T1N Sprinter RV, there's a small black distribution box that's connected to the positive battery terminal. There are four red wires, four fuses, and 8 screws that hold in the fuses. Everything tested good, but I tightened everything anyway. - I went back to the driver seat, turned the key, dashboard lights were bright with no flickering, and the engine started! I'd like to recommend that you add "clean and tighten distribution block connections" to your already comprehensive test sequence. I will make a video that shows the steps and post it on RUclips.
Thanks!
Thanks..
#2 and #5 injector was bad. Tested with tubes with cam sensor disconnected...replaced the two injectors...starts up...giving it road test tomorrow
NO START! You are my go to guy for my 05.
Engine cranks. Code reader says fuel rail pressure too high!
Use your fuel line test for relief valve-no fuel! Bench test valve- no click
Replace pressure relief valve and sensor-rail pressure too low.
Rail pressure 190-250 Will recheck
Purge system twice-no air. Lots of pressure to injectors.
What next? CanBus?
Have you also tried the leak off test for injectors? We have two videos for that. Watch both and use clear tubing. There is no reason for the expensive vials I use in one video.
Hi. Have a 2006 sprinter will only go on second start. Engine sounds sweet. Best videos I’ve ever seen. Legend.
That's not a symptom I've dealt with but I wonder if unplugging the MAF would change the way it starts.
Excellent video, thank you very much.
Just bought my first T1n 10.2005 here in Germany, the 2148 cc engine. This engine is the most common in Europe from what I see; would have preferred a 2.7, but couldn't find one for a decent price, only ultra expensive, or with high milage. I am very happy with it and should have gone this route a long time ago. Will watch your other videos as well. Cheers
Congratulations and welcome to the Vanmily! Settle in and get comfy, we have over 250 videos about T1N's and a few unrelated. What is high mileage? Mine is a bit over half a million miles. They don't get that high without replacing parts as needed while low mile vehicles can still have 20 year old parts waiting to die.
Thank you very much for the kind words and the reply!
My van has only 193.000 km, so that's 120.000 miles. You are perfectly correct about the parts going out even with low milage just because of the materials and their lifespan (plastics, low quality rubbers, etc). I will be changing all the consumables on Monday, all the filters, aer/diesel/oil, the oil obviously, and also the spark plugs. I am having a strange thing with the engine and I am hoping it's going to be resolved after these changes - cold start, always perfectly fine, excellent strat. If I drive 20 minutes or even keep the engine running half an hour, stop it and restartet, it just won't start; it spins the engine and tries to start, but doesn't manage. Only after the engine is cold again, after about halt an hour or more it starts perfectly again. I am guessing spark plugs, or diesel filter full of trash inside, and it takes some time until these sediments settle again down in the filter... Could also be other things, clearly, but we'll see how it goes after these changes. Thanks again! Cheers
Excellent video on the basic initial troubleshooting for a “my van won’t start “ conundrum........
the end of your video is wolf creek pass in Colorado, I live down the road of that over in Durango
Wake up the chickens 🐥🐥🐥
Best where to start problem solver video . Thanks. Suscribed
Thanks you dear sir I’m gonna give that a shot when I get back home
Great Demo thank you I went through all of this already I have 2007 2500 gas no crank no start, driving me crazy (key, relays ,battery and starter even engine ground wire all checked)
What happened? When ended up being the fix?
Great troubleshooting video. You are definitely the Sprinter guy. Came across your video by accident I was looking to buy a sprinter van in the future and was trying to research the common problems.
Did you find our Buyer's Guide video? There is a downloadable checklist too. Download is free for our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
This video is the best. It did help me a lot thank you.
Champion, cheers mate. Happy camper NZ🎉
Thank you very much for this!!! Super informative. I appreciate the thoughtful step by step process of elimination technique.
Huh. I learned something again from you guys keepem coming!
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Avery Moses instablaster :)
I found my problem before i watched! But thanks mat be helpful later on !!!
I had a no start no crank over the weekend and it turned out to be the main cable from battery to starter did a voltage drop test and found 10 volt lost on cable all clean and tight. Replaced with used cable and back on road. Like your videos keep them coming
replace your motor ground cable. 1 click (RELAY)no start
This video is amazing, somehow mine doesn't have the same arrangement of the fuses, gonna send you a pic, youll have more idea than me 100%
I don't think I got your photo. Find me on FaceBook and join my support group for 1-on-1 assistance. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
How do you get autel ap200 to look at rail pressure?
I've cued this video to the pertinent part. ruclips.net/video/n4qdK3X03So/видео.html
Thanks for helping diagnose issues.... learned some things.
But my issue is fuses blowing to fuel pump. Next video to find my cure.
Only two things can cause that, in-tank pump going bad or the wire going to it.
@@FloridaVanMan
I have fuse # 17 shorting out.
It's a 15A to Eng. Con. Unit.
So I have no crank or fuel psi.
Got it towed to shop, hopefully a fix tomorrow.
Thanks 4 replaying.
@@timtripp4222 Have you seen out recent video about testing the ECM voltages? it is about 2 weeks old, black & white thumbnail with a pic of the ECM.
Very good info on the sprinter...tks
You Guys are cool, spreading t1n information. Win :)
yup, another great video. right there with the rest of your fan club...new groupie. Thanks
Hoping you can assist me as I have been chasing gremlins in my OM648 (2006 e320) for a few months now and not sure what to do next. I have the low rail pressure code and progressively replaced pretty much the whole fuel path from the cheapest item to the most expensive.
I have replaced:
- Fuel Filter.
- Fuel pressure sensor (Bosch)
- Fuel pressure regulator (Bosch)
- In tank fuel pump assembly - the whole thing with the hoses (Bosch)
- New hoses (from filter to High Pressure Pump and return hose from pump). (OE MB)
- and finally just today installed new rebuilt high pressure pump (Bosch)
Car seems to drive better than it did before the HP pump replacement but still throws the low rail pressure code albeit not as soon as it used to. I still have my old fuel rail sensors but not the HP pump as I sent that core back. I plan to put my old sensors back and see if that makes a difference but thought I'd write to you first.
Car has 340,000km and I have not removed the injectors yet. I'm really at a loss what to do next and could use your guidance. I had high hopes for the HP pump to finally solve the issue but was quite shocked when it didn't.
Sounds like you have an injector relieving fuel to the return line, so not holding enough pressure in the rail. Search my channel for "leak off". There are two videos showing the same test on two different engines. Your engine is a bit different but has the same basic parts and will reveal the same way.
Thank you. Injectors are the only thing left to check. Will do a leak off test.
Amazing video! Thank you for this helpful info:)
Boss vid! I have a issue with it not starting after having been switched off in the last 10 mins. Bit inconvenient for a nip to the shops. Also sometimes the engine stays on after removing the key but will turn off when I turn the lights off!
Not starting sounds like camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Does the tachometer move while cranking when it doesn’t want to start? If the engine keeps running with the key out, just put the key back in and re cycle the key on/off.
I have a '04 with 222K and it has been having starting issues all winter (long cranks and didnt want to start when it was wet out) the other day i was flying down the highway at 80mph and i heard a sound (over the music and road noise) like something lost pressure (sort of like a blow off valve sound) and instantly the van lost power and died, and now just cranks with no fuel delivery. I pulled codes with a CR Plus :
p0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low
p0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range
.
Do you suspect that to be the High Pressure Fuel Rail or Fuel Pump? How do you replace the in-tank fuel pump? It was a $350 tow, so trying to find some used parts which take longer to obtain. I will go through your checklist of culprits.
.
Thanks amazing video, not sure how you got such clear image under the van!
A sudden rush of air escaping is common sound when a turbo hose fails. There is a bit of humor with information in this video. ruclips.net/video/pa9kLnPdJA4/видео.html
Great videos great people
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us
I wish I can share something with you as well but I just got my van few months ago and still working on the conversion
Thanks
Hope to see some pictures along the way!
Yeah sure I’ll upload some in the Facebook next week when I finished all the electrical, insulation and side panels
This is a great video! Would this apply to a 2008 sprinter as well? I pulled into the gas station got some diesel fuel pulled up to the front went in to get my change want to come back out she wouldn't start, just crank.. It was about time for my fuel filter so I figured that was it I changed the fuel filter no help still just cranking. I will give you a video another watch when I get back to my van. Thanks!
There are many similarities but also some differences. Is it possible you pumped gasoline and not diesel? Cold fuel on a hot pump in the tank can be the event that causes a bad fuel pump to quit working but there are many other things that cause low fuel pressure. Do you have a compatible code reader? Find me on FaceBook for 1-on-1.
Any tips for a 2003 sprinter? They don't have an in tank fuel pump? How can you tell if the engine is getting fuel? Thanks!
An air leak is the most common reason but it could also be an issue of fuel getting there, just not holding enough pressure to start the van. We have videos showing leak-off test for the injectors and fuel rail, but first look for air bubbles in the clear fuel lines. One-on-one assistance is offered via Patreon membership floridavanman.com/donate/
Muy buen video amigo gracias aprendí mucho
Thanks man! Dealing with this right now. I’ve done everything but the battery tip at the end. Will try that and see if that helps, have done crank sensor and relay but still having issues
Just like IT guys. Have you reset your computer 🖥 lol. I'm in the same boat on the side of the road. Will try it too in the morning
Nice troubleshooting
“What is this, windows?!” 😂
Thanks I have the other code reader u recommended but I’ll remember 25c cold on dip 80 c toward top of dip thank u sir
thank you man ..good job
Great Demonstration. Although, 6:08 voltage drop by nearly 6 volts and simply glossed over? Of course this is a float charge, but pretty extreme not to explain possible starter failure.
I recently purchased an 04 with a voltage drop at start of 3 volts, no injector signal and no crank rpm above 190. FP Good on scanner (4800 psi). CCA 1000 total on two batteries. What could be the cause of no injector activation?
Thanks,
-Justice
Thanks for sharing this info!
Well I primed the fuel filter and the fuel pump is drawing fuel but still turns over but no start. I’m thinking my next step is replace the cam sensor although I did here the radiator fan running and just seeing your video that relates to this watching it next! Thanks
If the electric radiator fan comes on when the key is turned on it isn't going to start. There are three relays under fuse box on steering column. Swap those around and verify fuses #16, 17 & 18. Verify the fuses on the front of the battery are passing 12volts to the bottom of each big fuse. ruclips.net/video/hRmXq4KRHdQ/видео.html
@@FloridaVanMan thank you once again on a weekend evening!! I’ll check and verify!
@@FloridaVanMan but it does crank over!
@@farmitecture2060 Fan comes on and the starter still turns? That's unusual. Maybe someone has hot-wired the fan trying to make the a/c colder.
@@FloridaVanMan yeah I plugged in a code reader and just turned the key to provide power and the fan ran the whole time. Wasn’t sure about codes as battery had been dead for some time but got codes C1022, C1010 and C1024
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
I really only know the T1N Sprinters with 2.7 liter 5 cylinder engines. After 2006 they started offering different motors and everything changed. We had a 2008 just long enough to realize how different everything is.
hello sir, i'm an american in france with a 2004 mercedes 208 van issue. my van has always started. it cranks over, gives me an indication that it wants to start but does not engage. i noticed that the water sensor plug was not connected, in fact it's the wrong filter. could this be the problem? i'll try the fuel pump vibration in the morning, it's 9 o'clock pm here in europe. thanks for your video, you gave me a few tips to try tomorrow. cheers
Fuel filter sensor wire is only an alarm for water in the filter, so that is no big deal although it being disconnected will put a dash light. If you have a MAF sensor, unplug that. We have a video on testing the MAF. If the van still tries to fire occasionally but generally just cranks the most likely culprit is fuel pressure. Search our videos for "Leak-off" and you will find three videos. Two test the injectors and they show the same test on different motors types. The other is a rail leak off test. A failing injector will make starting very difficult but a failing rail pressure valve will often cause no start at all.
Hi.Great video as always.I am big fan in Vancouver.i have problem with my 2001 Mercedes Benz Sprinter 316cdi.
It crank for way too long -for about 7 sec or more and than it starts.It starts after all but it's annoying.Its not temperature related.
I replaced glow plugs,glow plugs Control unit,cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors,new fuel filter and checked fuses.
If you have any idea it would greatly appreciate.
Thank you
Pavel
We have a video for testing the glow plugs with a volt meter and fused wire. You can look for air bubbles in the plastic fuel lines at the front of the engine. Any bubbles in there means you have a leak. I think your 2001 has OM612 engine with no fuel pump in the tank, so it sucks fuel to the front of the engine rather than push it. This allows any leak to let air in causing slow starts as all the air must be sucked through first.
@@FloridaVanMan
Ok thanks.i will inspect my fuel lines very carefully.I don't think glow plugs is the issue as i replaced all 5 just last summer.This problem was the reason why I replaced them and it didn't help.
Will keep you posted.Thank you.
@@FloridaVanMan hello.
Thank you so much for this tip.I ended up doing all fuel lines and van starts Lika a champ now.Is there anyway i can send you some appreciation?Your chanel is so useful.
Also have one more problem that keep coming back.I am slowly getting air in break system.I have new reservoir and master cylinder,power bleed done and pedal is getting soft again.Any idea on this one.Thank you very much.
Pavel
@@pavelhusek2367 Are yo sure it is getting air in? Or maybe just the ABS pump failing? If bleeding doesn't fix the problem it is probably the pump. Our videos are made possible by viewer like you. Donations are greatly appreciated and easily made from our website. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan
Hi.I sent you some coffee.Thank you.
ABS light is not on.but did break bleed twice and always come back and always have air in lines when doing break bleed.But just realized it might be air in abs unit and will have to do it with obd scanner. I can't think of anything else.
Gonna check these parts hopefully it will start. My issue is turn key and get nothing, all dash light are on & installed a new battery. Jumped the starter and it engages & turns over but won't start. Hopefully its the relay 🙏 thx your video was helpful !
Mine does the exact same thing.. almost like something in the park shift lever is screwing up.. but it only does it once or twice every 6 months.. annoying, but a jiggle always fixes it..
Great video
Hey I got a 2008 frieghtliner sprinter with the Mercedes diesel motor. It cranks but wont start. I changed the crank sensor but the tachometer doest bounce. Also only starts if I spray starting fluid. Any idea thanks.
First STOP using starting fluid. That is for gasoline engines with spark plugs and an easy way to damage your diesel. Next, get a proper code reader and let the van tell you why it can't start. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
Thank you so much!!!
Great videos,my sprinter won't start whe n glow plug light is on,and most of the time it does not go out,I have to toggle ignition off and on until eventually the light goe out and the van starts,ever seen this problem.2000 sprinter 313
Are you in the UK? Vans have some different common problems over there, different ECM and engine options. Percussive diagnosis on the fuse box might give temporary relief. (hit it!) The welded brass connections inside the fuse box can be troublesome at this age. If smacking the fuse box does nothing I'd try unplugging the battery for 30 seconds and touching the battery leads together to drain any capacitive current, giving the ECM a fresh reboot. If that works reliably find a repair center for the ECM.
Yes I am in UK I will the smack the fuse box trick lol,I thought it was GP relay changed that but no go
Very informative video, Thank you Florida Van Man. I have a 2003 Dodge Sprinter with the inline 5 cyl 2.7 mercedes diesel engine. My van will not start unless I spray into the air intake with either diesel fuel or starting fluid. After it starts, it will run all day. Shut it off after driving for hours, it needs a spray to start even then when thoroughly warmed up. It seems to lack power, but given distance it will accelerate to 80 mph, running at around 2800 rpm. The motor will only rev to about 4000, but that's fine with me, don't need more than that. The rectangular diesel fuel 'transfer pump' was replaced with a bosch pump by the previous owner. He thought that was the issue, it was not so he sold it to me. Any ideas what my no start issue might be caused by ? It's obviously fuel related, but might be some sensor that is not allowing the fuel to flow at starter motor cranking speeds, only after the starting fluid fires it up. Thank you for any assistance that you might offer, Steve
Most likely the high pressure fuel pump, but could also be the fuel rail releasing pressure or one of the injectors leaking to the return lines. Here is how to test that: ruclips.net/video/aB4d8xyZwU8/видео.html We have links in many video descriptions for a diagnostic code reader that may be very helpful in determining where the problem lies. Autel AP200
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you for the reply and info. I'll watch your video on youtube !
Thanks for this video. Can you explain what the "burst" relay does, the one that you borrowed to swap out with the fuel pump relay? Thanks for the answer and thanks for you work here.
Thinking about picking up an airstream class B 2005 with 27000 original miles, it has the 2.7 in it. looks in nice shape. people that own it are to old to travel anymore.
Find one for me too..? LOL
very interesting ! i have a Sprinter 310 D (OM 602 engine 2,9 l, 5 cyl, 102 PS) model 2000 and it suddenly cut while it was running perfectly well. I observe that the heat lamp is no more switching off and there is no more the clic that i could hear in the cabin, changed the 2 relays as shown inthe video, and i also changed the heater timer box on the right side of the engine.. Would you have an idea of what could be the failing component (That normally makes a clic after few seconds of ingnition ON).. Thank you for your help
I'm hoping a viewer can help you with this. I'm not familiar with the click you hear. I think you are referring to glow plugs, but they will not cause van to cut off. A good code reader should help with the engine cut-off symptom.
Hi! I have a 2005 with cold start troubles. Replaced all fluids and filters, camshaft sensor, and all glow plugs, battery tested good. Only happens 30% of the time. Once I get it running it turns right back on no problem. Been to 2 shops for help with no luck. They said pressures look good so I’m assuming that rules out fuel delivery issues. Maybe injector giving out? Any advice would be great thanks! 🙏
It could be one injector allowing fuel pressure to leak off, returning to the tank and not holding enough pressure to fire-up the injectors. There are several more likely culprits in the pressurized fuel system. Without reading codes you are throwing darts in the dark. Get the AP200 from our links page then watch the video on setup for a Sprinter. I offer one-on-one help to our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
hello, can you tell me what are the relay under the driver's seat for?
Accessible from the side access, the yellow one is for the in-tank fuel pump (2004-2006). Older vans won't have that relay. The black or grey one is the start relay. Deeper under the seat is different for almost every van. Every change in factory options changes the layout of the relays under the front edge of the seat base and testing is the only way to discover which relay does what.
Going down wolf creek pass into Pagosa at the end?
Excellent video, thanks for the tips!! One of the problems you mark in the video happens to me ( cramshaft sensor )
If you're having repeated CRANKSHAFT position sensor problems, I have read that a cracked flex plate or timing issues could cause that. Repeated CAMSHAFT position sensor issues on the other hand could be wires or something bouncing around under the valve cover.
at 5:55 How is my van running with out that yellow fuel pump replay? I runs sort of/sometimes, with out that Fuel Pump Relay on the left side on the seat, looks like all of em are still under the middle top area? probably just going to buy one to fill in the gap hopefully that helps my problem.
Older 2002 & 2003 Sprinters won't have that relay because they don't have an electric fuel pump. Rather than an in-tank electric, you'd have a manual low pressure pump on the front of the engine, above the high pressure fuel pump.
So clear and concise 🔥🔥🔥 🙏🙏
What diagnostic tool you can use if you have pin14 plug
So your van has a 14 pin round diagnostic port? The AP200 linked on our products page and this adaptor made by Autel. www.autelsale.co.uk/wholesale/mercedes-benz-14pin-connector-for-maxisys-ms908-and-ms908p.html?fbclid=IwAR05zrYl9NBm7tZg9tByjaEoRfO9gy26TmOWjdAN97zNRwHrFmIVHo7cabY
@@FloridaVanMan thank you, so withe the adaptor it should work? Just bought locally one and it works with a simple code reader, couldn't connect with computer, i was wondering if I should try with this ap200. Thanks 🙏
@@karolinarej7837 I'm told this adaptor works with the AP200 on Sprinters having the round plug. We don't have any round plug vans in the USA so I can't verify it myself... but I grabbed this link from a conversation where a few folks confirmed it worked for them where other adaptors had not.
I purchased the Autel AP200 from your amazon link. I have a 2005 T1n freightliner sprinter. It says not supported when i enter the VIN . Do i need a different scanner?
Don't enter the VIN. We have a video showing set up and first use. Skip the VIN and manually select Sprinter in the menu.
Thanks for the idea to disconnect battery for damn computer to reset…Started right up after that!! Phew…no mechanic $$$😅
good to know will try to unhuck battery out
Is there anything special about jump starting a 2006 Sprinter T1N (308cdi in our part of the world). Is it alright to connect to the battery terminal in the engine bay, or will this damage the ECU.
Also what about Solid State jump starters, again is it alright to just connect to battery terminals (my battery is in engine bay). I cannot see any additional terminal meant for jump starting like in the newer sprinters. I was looking forward to see this mundane topic of jump starting, but he skipped it altogether.
Nothing special about jumping our vans. Jumper leads go directly to the battery positive and the black lead can go to the battery or any good ground on the van. The ground strap between body and engine is often a weak point that can be identified by moving the black jump lead to the engine.
I have the 1998 210d sprinter van and it has the same problem, when ignition on the pump in not on. But I could not find the relay on that model
Most UK model Sprinters won't have an electric fuel pump. They have a low pressure pump on the front of the engine right next to the high pressure pump. Both are cam driven.
@@FloridaVanMan so are you saying that the bosch rotary injection pump is actually one that sucking the fuel mechanically?
@@aldinoz No, right next to the injection pump is a smaller sucking pump that pulls fuel from the tank through the filter then pushes fuel into the high pressure pump.
Great video thank you
At the end of the video you mentioned start air , what is that .
When the van's ECM doesn't recognize the I.D. chip in our keys a message displays on the odometer screen "StartError".
Se problem no start only crank. Will start with starter fluid in air intake. but my van 2001 sprinter an has no in tank fuel pump. Can't find pump relay . Is there something similar 🤔
A 2001 won't have a pump in the tank or a relay. Starter fluid is a really bad idea. Use diesel fuel in a spray bottle. It works almost as well and is a LOT safer for your engine! Since either does start it we know it is trying to run just not getting enough fuel pressure to start. Likely culprits are injector or rail leak-off. We have tests for both. Search "leak-off" at floridavanman.com/
@@FloridaVanMan thank you for your help 😃
Great informative video . Anything on basic sprinter t1n maintenance or problem solving is great thanks.
Werry good advice I hav the same problem with the sprinta mod 2005 308 cdi after the suggesting gowing to do and tray avrytching
What is the Hella part number of the 5 pin relay shown here.
Good Stuff Bill! I'm subscribed! I'm buying the T-shirt.
Thank you!!!!!!!! Which one did you get? T1N thing or classic Florida Van Man?
Hi, I am getting long crank problems so it's slow to start up and threatens not too. Also I stalled once recently and its is dying on hills and then goes into limp mode. I changed the fuel filter after an air blockage in the system and also replaced two injector seals that were leaking. What should I do now as the problems have not resolved. There is no EGR valve on my 2004 model so i cant go that route. Thanks.
Sounds like a fuel pressure problem. A compatible code reader would be my first step, then probably Leak-off test the rail and injectors.
Thanks.
Thanks for another awesome video.
What's the name of the diagnostic app you use on your phone please
MaxiAp200 is a download that comes with the Autel AP200 bluetooth dongle. The app won't work with other dongle brands and the AP200 is getting hard to find.
Any guess on why lights and accessories go on, no start error, but when turning over to start it automatically shuts off and I have to disconnect the battery terminals to get lights and accessory power? Thanks!
So it starts to turn the engine and then seems like it disconnects from the battery? Everything stops and the dash goes dark until you unhook the battery? And it does this occasionally or did it start doing this and hasn't run since? Sounds like an aftermarket alarm system with engine cut-off. Maybe a blown fuse to the accessory input of the alarm. If you don't have an aftermarket alarm I would consider cleaning the ground points near the battery, at the engine and under driver seat. If all that doesn't work, check all fuses, especially #7 & then smack the crap out of the fuse block under the steering wheel.
@@FloridaVanMan thanks a bunch! Gonna try this after work. It started doing it and I was able to correct it by disconnecting the battery. Gonna try this after work
Great video thx. I have an issue with my 2004 sprinter they start, but shut off right away. Everything is good fuel pump, fuel filter,high pressure pump,all sensors is OK.Do you have an idea what happened with my truck?
Yes I do! When they stall immediately after starting it is the MAF 99% in my experience. Unplug the MAF and it will run with reduced power on acceleration. Get a new MAF and see if more needs to be done. A failed MAF can put the ECM in a bad mood. We can cheer it up. ruclips.net/video/3nylx7bZO0g/видео.html
@@FloridaVanMan thank you!I definitely get new one!you awesome
I had zero instruments and I needed a new negative lead to my battery and engine body
I would suggest getting a tinned cable 35mm gauge minimum
Excellent video. I have a 2021 Leisure Travel Van (Unity) which is built on a 2020 Sprinter 3500. It has less than 12000 miles on it and haven't had any issues until now. Drove it from OH to FL in December, no problems at all. Came home, parked it in the driveway, and it hasn't started since. I push the ignition button, all the lights on the dash come on, it does the oil check, etc, but NOTHING happens. Doesn't even try to crank. Everything else (lights, radio, etc) seems to work fine with the ignition on. I've tried all 3 key fobs, checked all the fuses. Very frustrating. My next step is to call Mercedes road-side assistance and hope I still have some coverage. :( Any ideas outside of what you already have in this video?
I've only touched one 2020 and don't have any relevant experience with no-start.
Hey @FloridaVanMan I'm in Australia with 2003 413 4Cyl Sprinter and after a recent fuel filter change it's developed a strange no-start problem, it will start off the key with no problem...run for a few seconds, then stop.... now it will take up to 8 attempts to start then it starts and its back being its normal self. This situation has happened before when I changed the fuel filter..Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Strange symptoms, could be an air-lock but I'm leaning toward something going wrong as the ECM changes from default startup values to read sensor values. If you have a meter like Autel AP200 look at the live data, specifically MAF value, rail pressure & EGR value if you have that. Watch it at startup thru stall, then watch again at startup when you expect it to be normal self. Something will probably be different a moment before the van stalls.
hi great vid how do you connect your phone for diagnostics. thanks
For a Sprinter we use this AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft Don't get the red one. It will need annual renewal at $19.99 but the one I linked will give you one free download for life. The download you want is Benz_Sprinter. And after making note of all the codes, clear them and drive to see what comes back. The new codes are all you need to worry about. The ones that don't come back may have been there for years, or caused by a low battery giving insufficient voltage to many sensors.
Good morning sir. I have a 2003 2500 sprinter and my van won’t start. My van doesn’t have a fuel pump relay under the seat like your video I think cause older. Any suggestions where it would be at?
The starter relay is under the driver seat and you should be able to hear & feel it click when turning the key to start. We could check the contacts with a volt meter to ensure you are getting voltage to it in each position. Next time it doesn't start, try putting the gear sector in Neutral to try again. Be sure to use the brake and don't forget to put the van back into park if it doesn't help. Many folks have reported issues with the fuse block under the steering wheel. This fault can be isolated by holding the key in start position while giving the fuse block a good Whack!
I have a 2005 sprinter 2500 diesel van that has been converted to a RV. This van has a freightliner badge. The van will not start. The first problem with a no start could be fixed by removing the negative cable and reconnecting it. This worked for a while. Next the dash would light up but the van would not crank. Now when the key is turned on the van the power blinks on and off repeatedly.
I replaced the engine control relay but it made no difference. Have you ever had this problem and do you have any thoughts about how to fix the problem?
Yep! I'll bet $1 the short battery negative cable has a bad connection. The ground point on the firewall right there is notorious and the cable going into the lead battery clamp is often problematic. Replace that short cable and clean the firewall connection with wire brush. Use battery grease available in $1.99 pouch at the register of every auto parts store. Be sure the battery has a good charge and let me know if this does not resolve the problem. I have my 'double or nuthin' bet' already loaded. :)
Thank you. I will certainly give this a try.
@@FloridaVanMan
Question, my 2003 sprinter Freightliner van does not have the extra relays that are in this video It has one black one. The numbers do not match the ones underneath the seat. And mine I had to take the seat out to access them. Please please please someone help me It has been down now for 2 months and when I turn the ignition on there is no noise or buzzing from the gas tank. So I want to start with the relay. Is there any other fuses or relays?!?! I am a complete loss and frustrated to no end
Very helpful information as always.
I have a similar problem I am in California otherwise I would bring the van to you. The van starts randomly I had to hit under the column form time to time and it works. When it doesn't work you'll hear the initial beep beep beep and the cooling fun starts running but not ignition, no cranking, nothing. I was told that the whole ECU computer, immobilizer and key w ignition needs to be replace. any suggestions?
SOS Diagnostics will repair the ECU for $600-$800. You will have to send skreem & key chip with because the computer is being reprogrammed. If you get desperate and find it unwilling to start at all, try sparking the battery with an 18 volt drill battery. It will only get worse from here on out without being repaired. There may be cheaper options on eBay, but SOS has been the go-to for years. One of our own vans, the red camper striped one, had this problem in 2013 and it’s been solid for 7 years. -Mike
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you very much for the info. Thank you for posting great videos.
NEED HELP! My sprinter fuel system was working perfect but I had to pull the engine for repairs and install it back, now the high pressure fuel pump won't allow the fuel to pass through it. I replaced all the sensors and regulators. Something is telling the computer the pressure is too high but that's not possible because very little fuel is going into the fuel rail. Will the camshaft sensor stop the high pressure pump from pumping, I will check that next.
Cam shaft sensor isn't your issue. I'll bet a dollar you have two plugs swapped. Look at the plugs on the high pressure fuel pump. The larger plug should have a 90 degree bend in the plastic plug. If the wires come out of that plug straight, swap it with the plug on your crankcase breather hose. The hose heater is where the straight plug goes. Join me on Patreon for one-on-one help. floridavanman.com/donate/
@@FloridaVanMan Not the issue, I have the correct wire connected. I wish it was that easy.
@@FloridaVanMan Will it not work if the transmission is empty of fluid and also the coolant is empty? I just wanted to hear it start before finishing everything. I guess I'll put all that together before I try again.
@@Shane71170 Transmission fluid and coolant will not prevent engine starting. We have videos for testing fuel pressure from the tank, injector leak-off and rail leak-off.
Someone told me there is air in the high pressure pump causing air lock, if so how do I prime it?
Really really useful
I bought a 2019 how long I have to warm up it?
Your engine won't warm efficiently just sitting in park. As soon as you can clear the windows start driving gently. A cold running engine is when the most friction-wear occurs and it warms best under a light load. That said... I'm Florida-Man so what do I know about cold climate??? LOL