I had glue down LVP installed by Nebraska Furniture Mart. It looks great in my bedroom and office and I was sold on the "waterproof" aspects of the flooring given the LVP would also be installed in my bath and laundry. In the first year post install my washing machine leaked all over the floor. I immediately cleaned but for the past 2 years I have observed sticky adhesive sections in a couple seems in the laundry room. The seams are tacky and have attracted dirt to the point that the LVP is beginning to look damaged. In the bathroom I have observed the same issue to a lesser degree...small adhesive coming up through the seams & attracting funk. Bit of googling and this appears to be a fairly common problem with adhesive based LVP, when water seaps into the seams. If a large selling point of LVP is the extent in which it is "waterproof", any future home owner may wish to research the worst case scenarios of water damage between adhesive LVP, and the locking LVP. You might also consider what is more likely to damage your floor, water, or something else. In my case, I think water related issues are far more likely, so I can't help but wonder if locking LVP would be better. Anyone ever do a hybrid? Locking in moist areas, adhesive elsewhere?
Thanks for this discussion. I also used glue-down planks and, over time, glue did ooze out and had to be cleaned n=by getting down on your knees with a scraper. Not fun. Maybe it was because I didn’t buy top-of-the-line planking? I don’t know.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. My aunt is trying to decide between floating and glue down. She's on a concrete slab and the guy that quoted her said he'd do the glue down for slightly cheaper. So I think she'll end up going with glue down.
To replace glue down flooring, heat the plank that is coming out with an iron or heat gun taking care not to damage adjacent pieces. The glue will soften and allow you to pull up the flooring. We glued our kitchen floor. 100 year old house with a new adjoining kitchen addition. Level floors start with construction, so attention to detail is important. Then on top of the 3/4" new plywood, we installed 1/4" high density underlayment. Then floor leveler where needed, and then use a long straight edge to check your work. First row is snapped with a chalk line to get started. Using a heavy roller is important too. Ours is three years old and looks new. Only one small gap that was there when I put it in. Nothing has moved.
We just bought 600 sq ft of glue down lvp for the main body of our new home. This video made me soo much more confident in the choice and now I feel better about the extra $1/sq ft I just spent
One thing you might consider especially in old houses is a threshold in doorways. I’ve done plenty of these by using 3/4 or 5/4 oak. Simple to make and easy to fit. I usually do a round over by just doing a 45 degree bevel then sanding or using a 3/4 round over router bit. My reason for doing this is because you sometimes might have a need to change/replace flooring in only one room either for color or type. Make sense? Always hater it when carpet in my California homes went from one room to another. One room bad others good but had to replace all. In my hundred year old house in Pennsylvania, I used thresholds. One room at a time.
I appreciate the insight you shared about the glue down LVP flooring. I honestly never considered it to be an option, but it makes sense. I will probably go with a glue down LVP floor in my old house for the reasons you described. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for this video. We have had a problem with our vinyl plank flooring. It is buckling in many places. Our home is a condo. We had the floors professionally installed. I am in the process of finding out if it was poor installation or defective planks. You information about the glue-down panels has caught my attention. We live on Maui across the street from the ocean, so we will have to research whether the glue-down style is good with the humidity here. Thanks again for the information.
I have a floating vinyl plank floor installed the entire house.Recently we made some changes in one area and the vinyl planks can be removed and installed back without any issues. It took less than 10 minutes to remove the planks from an area 15 ft × 6ft. Before that we had an engineered wood floor. Even though we have no kids or pets, the floor was deteriorating within 8 years. It was a nightmare because it took several days to remove the glued down floor . Nope, i will not want to have my floor glued down again
Great, articulate video! I'm leaning towards the glue down option for the same reason you did -- the ease with which individual planks can be repaired/ replaced. Thanks for confirming the direction I'm considering.
This video was so helpful. Thank you so much. We wanted the interlocking vinyl plank on our kitchen floor but we were told it wasn't level that we could use glue down. I was really concerned about the glue down. I wasn't sure what it was..was it durable?? , but that's what we're going with now. The video was really helpful. Thanks.
Your video helped me make up my mind and choose glue down vinyl plank flooring (single story on slab) for both sides of my duplex. It's incredible how much vendor pushback I found after I after made this choice for my residential property. Now that it's done, I love how the quiet and solid feel as I walk on the floor. Down the road I will get some floor rugs. With a floor rug I can take it outside for a more thorough cleaning, or get rid of it and get another floor rug. No carpet pad that smells over time. Also I don't find the floor excessively cold like some suggest but I am in the south.
If you ever go back to carpet, use the pink waterproof pad! It's slightly more expensive but it has an odor block that regular 1/4 inch pad doesn't offer. It won't disintegrate either!
Yeah the floor installers in Florida are all wanting to do click floor installation cuz it's super fast for them they are not concerned about the benefits for you. And many are refusing to install tile. Can you imagine no tile installation in Florida? Ridiculous all they care about is speed and volume and screw the customer
Getting quotes of $5 a foot for installation for tile. What a joke. We on a construction company and build high-end swimming pools are men are paid by the hour not by the foot
You mentioned waiting for the adhesive on a glue down to get tacky before installing tiles. This is sometimes know as waiting for the adhesive to flash off. The term flash off came from the old days when the adhesives had a VOC (volatile organic compound) component. The installer would spread adhesive and then throw a lit match on it. Voom! and the adhesive was instantly tacky and ready for installation.
This is what I wanted to learn. I have an RV. I want to put down LVP. I'm concerned that the self adhesive type may not be sticky enough for the particle board. I'm also worried about moisture. Thank you for this information. I will not get floating because if I do have to replace any portion, I don't want to be pulling out my hair! lol.
It just makes sense. And even if I seem splits and a little water gets down in there the glue is it gonna let it go very far and your damage is going to be minimal. Kind of like old glue down linoleum, water could get in around the edges but it wouldn’t travel under the whole floor and destroyed all of the wood
I agree with what you said about glue down being superior if you have to replace one and if you have an older home with uneven floors. I have rentals that are all old and glue down is the only way to go.
Thank you for this video! I have been looking for exactly the explanation for the difference in the glue down and the floating vinyl floors… I am trying to decide which to install in my house and after watching this I think I’m going to strongly consider the glue down because of the easy repair capabilities… Also I have found the glue down is lower cost than the floating planks… This was very helpful!
Whe. It's floating they literally just pop it in. So if a small area were to get damage by maybe a leak under your home in one area, once the leak is repaired you can just pop up the planks that are damaged and pop new ones back in. That's why I always recommend to get over 30sq ft extra plank.
very nice video well played out and the honesty of your sharing. The way i look at it, depends upon your situation, our church is all glue down and very durable, very high traffic they drag chairs, tables, and you name it, spills, drops and the floor is completely undamaged 2 years now being installed still holding up. I am a contractor i take care of the church I've installed both styles. but here is the bottom line. preparation is key to having a job done right in order for it to last whether its glue down or float. we now are going to be doing the daycare we will be doing glue down, why because of the kids, water, and high traffic all over the place. happy repairs and remodels enjoy amen.
Thanks for sharing your plus and minus on LVP. My wife and I have been looking for the last month on which product to use. After listening to the experts at the flooring stores - we've been to at least 10 locally, we've decided to go with glue down LVP - 9"x72". Now to get the best price with delivery included, no hassle returns and any discount on the floor glue. If anyone else can advise on how to reduce costs - or get more value please leave your comment. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. I am in the process of adding a bathroom to my 1910 house, (in attic space so new subfloor has been created), and have been advised by the majority of flooring 'experts' and a mfr to use a glue-down LVP to better support a freestanding flatbottom tub and footed vanity that must be installed on top of the floor. According to the consensus, the weight of a filled tub and too many touchpoints with the tub, vanity and toilet would cause issues for a floating floor. Some installers are encouraging the floating floor which I believe is due to an easier install for them. Thoughts?
This is catching you a year later, but I agree. As in all things, installers and manufacturers seem to guide the trends in spite of what consumers want or need. I just went to HD and the guy who helped me behaved as if he'd never heard of glue down LVP. Also, as an aside, I heard the Canadian designer Candace Olson say that in areas like bathrooms and in particular around the toilet where men aren't (cough) very mindful, sheet vinyl is the most sanitary because of the nature of a continuous floor without seams. And she's right.
I have been mired in choosing a floor for the past month. I leveled the subfloor from underneath. I did a cheap LVP? in a bedroom 5 years ago. The wear is great but the seams do open. I seem to be jung up on that wear layer. Some say thick others don't say. I feel the glue down is better than floating. I never thought about the repair aspect so thank you. But once we settle on a brand, we have to pick a color. That will take another month. Yikes
I had floating LVP installed on my second floor. Everything you said it is true. I am downsizing to a new home where I will have glue down LVP. Floating is not worth the hassle not when it costs twice has much.
I have glue down in my bathroom and in my basement. There have been no issues with is so far. I have laminate in my upper floor and already within 6 months, I see dents and scratches in it where my toddler was throwing his toys or where we dropped a screwdriver. On my main floor we have a click on vinyl and its been a disaster! We installed it less than 5 years ago and its cracking, beaking, has scratches. I basically have to replace it. edges of plant started lifting and from time to time vacuum will hit it at an angle that causes it to chip and then inner part lifts off. its unusable. I hate click on vinyl with passion. and I bought more expensive ones. I covered some dents with a carpet but now its breaking in places where i can no longer cover it up and i have to replace it.
I know it's a year later respons3, but we're remodeling our new to us doublewide and need to remove the original 1998 carpet. We have a family member donating 600sf of glue down to ys. Any general suggestions regarding prep or anything? We're new to manuf homes. We're in West TN.
Great Video supper informative! I do have a question...what was the biggest driver that led you to LVP VS a true solid wood floor or pre finished wood laminate?
Wood laminate plank are coming a long way in the performance aspect if you ask me! I recommend it as much as my LVP. But I try and steer so many clear from actual hardwood now a day. It's hands down the most expensive. And the only plus I can see in having it is the owner KNOWING they have hardwood. Otherwise hardwood is hands down bottom of the list in performance, cleanabulity, and durability! My opinon!
As one who has bought 2 houses in 5 years and walked through MANY houses in the process...... floating LVP is BLATANTLY obvious and sounds insanely cheap. It's got the clickety clack, hollow sound. It had turned me off completely to the flooring type altogether. I'm about to redo my lower level in my tri level and realized.... why not just glue it down... should eliminate the CHEAP ass hollow sound. With this realization a whole realm of possibilities just opened up to me. What's my point? If you're toying with the option of LVP I'd highly recommend glue down. Floating is just so obvious the second you walk on it because it WILL sound hollow..... which.... IMO..... sounds cheap.
I have CoreTec throughout my entire home and have for the last 4 years and you don't hear a thing. It sounds like you've been walking on some cheap stuff. My husband's flooring business I sell every bit of flooring and I know exactly the sound you're talking about. My fav thing to tell people is you get what you pay for. If you go with a 6mil float with no sound silencer or anything you're going to have that. Not only is my floor make no sound, it's actually very soft as well. I also paid $5.99 Sq. FT. For it as well. If you walk on a 20 mil quality product, you will not experience that. I also attended a seminar where they had engineered hardwood up next to LVP and had hardwood experts test themselves to see who can tell which was which. That LVP impresses me more everyday.
@@TexanCrusher you could get sound silencer pad to put under your flooring to fix that. Or just get a higher quality LVP preferably over 12mil and that will help as well
@@trisha8454 Can we use LVT click with underfloor heating? We have 60 sq meter kitchen dinner and living space which are trying to do but all fitters are suggesting glue down and not click .....can you suggest also if in future we want to change the floor how easy or difficult it is to remove the glue down floor
@@vaniv2886 the reason everyone is suggesting glue down is to ensure the vinyl will not lift or buckle. You will need to make sure the heating wires are fully submerged in self leveler before laying the lvt to ensure the surface is completely flat. I do not suggest laying click over heating elements as the heat will cause it to expand and it will in turn buckle your vinyl. Removing adhesive will depend on the strength of the glue you will use. You would need to use a heating gun to loosen the glue. It just sounds like an all around headache to me. I hope this helped.
Will be doing glue down on my lower level over top of ceramic. Will be applying Ardex or similar to fill the grout joints. Did click on the upper level and it was a pain removing the existing tile.
We r about to get the glue down installed in our 1100 sqf home, we decided that before watching and had some doubts but now upon watching I am happy with our choice
Seriously, we are literally back almost to the old vinyl squares with the tacky back kind of nonsense. I don't get it. I use the sheet vinyl Armstrong it's about a buck a square foot. Virtually no seams. Either glue it down or float it or some of both. Oh well you know HD loves the garbage in boxes that is 3x the price and 1/3 the quality.
A year ago I installed the click LifeProof stuff from Home Depot in our bathroom and it worked out well....we are now building a new house and when I received a full plank glue down sample from Shaw flooring I was a little surprised how thin and flimsy it was. (15ml wear layer, 2mm thick) obviously I wasn’t educated enough and since my LifeProof had the backing with nice thicker sturdier feel, I was thrown off by the Shaw glue down plank. So are you saying that the 2mm stuff isn’t necessarily a bad thing? I as well will be using this on an entire 1st floor and upstairs hallway and loft. So probably 1200-1400 sq ft. Thanks for the helpful video!
The thinness is not a bad thing! Glue down floors are usually that thin. The reason thickness matters for the floating click together type of floor is to better hold the seems together and combat subfloor unevenness.
My 35 year old modern cape was part of a development with a model house and others in various stages of completion. When bought, the interior of my house was completed. Unfortunately my flooring was done by cheapskates and idiots. The floor was not engineered properly (neither properly strong nor level) and I am limited in what I could do to strengthen and level it. Didn't have the vertical clearance to put in plywood thicker than 3/8" after the original ceramic tile and the plywood it was secured to - was removed. Some shoring up of the subfloor from below will be done to make the floor stronger, quieter, and more level. Flooring engineer told me that click-In would fail pretty quickly so glue down was my only choice. We shall see how it all works out.
Hi, I have a Awning window which is floor to ceiling height. I liked one LVP (Glue) which is "Water resistant" they call. I am just wondering if it can get damaged by the Rain water ? Since the window is till floor, there is a high chance of rain water comes in through that even before we close it. Whats your suggession ?
You certainly make some good points about both types of LVP. However, you are comparing glued down LVP installed by a professional flooring installer versus floating LVP installed by yourself and that’s not a fair comparison. Also, Carpet has seams. Flooring installed in planks such as LVP has joints.
What do you think about glue down LVP over basement concrete that may over time building moisture from ground below? Would there be mold issue or other unforseen problem?
I don't think I'd put a glue down onto concrete, but I can't say I have specific experience with that. You might do a bit more research. If you're going to lay a floating floor, you can try putting self leveling compound on the concrete to help prepare for the floating floor to stay level.
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog Thanks for the quick reply! We're considering the glue down because we have a floor drain that has slope around it, in maybe a 4'x4' area. We can't really level that area. And I know there's always tile as another option, but that's really above our diy skill level.
Hm not sure how to help you there. I think most adhesives for glue down floor are meant to adhere plywood subfloor, maybe it wouldn't work on concrete? Not sure...
We were talking to a guy who has been selling flooring for over 30 years. We are looking to install LVP in our basement and it would go on concrete and he actually recommended we use glue Down over click down. So yes.. It can go directly Onto concrete…literally. We asked about any extra padding underneath and he claimed it would be unnecessary.
Hi, I purchased a house with thick arrah floating boards in the main areas. I have since extended the same click system into the 4 bedrooms. However, an issue is denting & expanding & cracking in a couple of spots. I now have to work out how to patch these spots & what compound I patch them with because it is impossible to replace.
I would like to install LVF over my kitchen tile. Do I need to remove the tiles first or can I lay the LVF on top? I really don’t want to dig up tiles.
In general the adhesive on that type of floor is not strong enough to create the kind of durability I'd need to withstand my kids. I'd recommend peel and stick for only very light traffic floors.
She should really stop calling herself not an expert :) Many bits and pieces of information that I haven't heard in other videos, which in my opinion separates expert from someone who put together vinyl once or twice and calls himself an expert
Exactly. If you have a damaged piece, use a heat gun on it to soften the glue beneath it, lift off the damaged piece, install the new one. You don't need to touch any other pieces. With the snap-together LVT, you cannot avoid messing with the adjacent pieces because you have to 'take the floor apart' to remove a damaged piece - you have to 'unsnap' the damaged piece from the adjacent pieces. I'm getting ready to replace some wood laminate and unsnapping the pieces is a PITA, and I'm not snapping together an entire floor of new pieces. Apply the glue, let it set up, lay down the planks, roll them, BAM done. No snapping together a huge floor-plank puzzle.
1:41 ... "and you roll over it with like a 300 pound steel roller" Yikes !!! Good luck loading a 300 lb roller into your car or carrying it into the house. The roller you are referring actually weigh 100lbs,
I"ve seen them where you fill up the roller with water & THAT"S where you get the higher weight and then drain it when done.. so not having to load a 300# roller into your vehicle. ALSO I"ve only seen people recommend 75# roller........ ?????
@@rickx1621 My original comment was meant to be humorous by pointing she innocently said "with like a 300 pound steel roller". Fact: The is no such thing... as a 300lb steel "flooring installation roller. Flooring rollers come in all sizes, from 35 lbs, 75lbs, 100lbs to 150 lbs with the most common weight being the 100 lb version. I've been around the flooring business for many decades. The water filled 300lb roller you speak of is actually a water or sand filled "LAWN" roller used for packing down loose dirt, seed, or sod etc. Yes, I imagine someone could drag a lawn roller into their house and fill it with water but hopefully no one will ever attempt it. Yes, it would probably work but the biggest problem aside from pushing a 300 pound roller around your house is once filled, there would be is no easy way to drain the water without making a huge mess. You remove the drain plug and just let the water "glug" out until it's empty... Yikes! Definitely not something you would want to do inside a house. But hey, if we want to introduce water filled lawn rollers into this equation I've seen water filled versions that weigh 3,400 pounds when filled... now that would certainly do the job... if not buckle your flooring joists.😂
@@savelinafilemoni8656 I don't have a Costco in my town so I'm not sure what product it is. Just look for the mil layer on the box and if you want something that will last, make sure its not under a 12 mil. A lot of those have a decent residential warranty as well. But also a lot of things will void that warranty as well.
![Oscar Maydon x Fuerza Regida - Tu Boda [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ymicn0_GYc/mqdefault.jpg)
My house is 126 years old. When you said that you couldn't get your old house level no matter what you did, I felt that in my soul.
I had glue down LVP installed by Nebraska Furniture Mart. It looks great in my bedroom and office and I was sold on the "waterproof" aspects of the flooring given the LVP would also be installed in my bath and laundry. In the first year post install my washing machine leaked all over the floor. I immediately cleaned but for the past 2 years I have observed sticky adhesive sections in a couple seems in the laundry room. The seams are tacky and have attracted dirt to the point that the LVP is beginning to look damaged. In the bathroom I have observed the same issue to a lesser degree...small adhesive coming up through the seams & attracting funk. Bit of googling and this appears to be a fairly common problem with adhesive based LVP, when water seaps into the seams. If a large selling point of LVP is the extent in which it is "waterproof", any future home owner may wish to research the worst case scenarios of water damage between adhesive LVP, and the locking LVP. You might also consider what is more likely to damage your floor, water, or something else. In my case, I think water related issues are far more likely, so I can't help but wonder if locking LVP would be better. Anyone ever do a hybrid? Locking in moist areas, adhesive elsewhere?
Thanks for this discussion. I also used glue-down planks and, over time, glue did ooze out and had to be cleaned n=by getting down on your knees with a scraper. Not fun. Maybe it was because I didn’t buy top-of-the-line planking? I don’t know.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. My aunt is trying to decide between floating and glue down. She's on a concrete slab and the guy that quoted her said he'd do the glue down for slightly cheaper. So I think she'll end up going with glue down.
To replace glue down flooring, heat the plank that is coming out with an iron or heat gun taking care not to damage adjacent pieces. The glue will soften and allow you to pull up the flooring. We glued our kitchen floor. 100 year old house with a new adjoining kitchen addition. Level floors start with construction, so attention to detail is important. Then on top of the 3/4" new plywood, we installed 1/4" high density underlayment. Then floor leveler where needed, and then use a long straight edge to check your work. First row is snapped with a chalk line to get started. Using a heavy roller is important too. Ours is three years old and looks new. Only one small gap that was there when I put it in. Nothing has moved.
We just bought 600 sq ft of glue down lvp for the main body of our new home. This video made me soo much more confident in the choice and now I feel better about the extra $1/sq ft I just spent
One thing you might consider especially in old houses is a threshold in doorways. I’ve done plenty of these by using 3/4 or 5/4 oak. Simple to make and easy to fit. I usually do a round over by just doing a 45 degree bevel then sanding or using a 3/4 round over router bit. My reason for doing this is because you sometimes might have a need to change/replace flooring in only one room either for color or type. Make sense? Always hater it when carpet in my California homes went from one room to another. One room bad others good but had to replace all. In my hundred year old house in Pennsylvania, I used thresholds. One room at a time.
I appreciate the insight you shared about the glue down LVP flooring. I honestly never considered it to be an option, but it makes sense. I will probably go with a glue down LVP floor in my old house for the reasons you described. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for this video. We have had a problem with our vinyl plank flooring. It is buckling in many places. Our home is a condo. We had the floors professionally installed. I am in the process of finding out if it was poor installation or defective planks. You information about the glue-down panels has caught my attention. We live on Maui across the street from the ocean, so we will have to research whether the glue-down style is good with the humidity here. Thanks again for the information.
I have a floating vinyl plank floor installed the entire house.Recently we made some changes in one area and the vinyl planks can be removed and installed back without any issues. It took less than 10 minutes to remove the planks from an area 15 ft × 6ft. Before that we had an engineered wood floor. Even though we have no kids or pets, the floor was deteriorating within 8 years. It was a nightmare because it took several days to remove the glued down floor . Nope, i will not want to have my floor glued down again
Great, articulate video! I'm leaning towards the glue down option for the same reason you did -- the ease with which individual planks can be repaired/ replaced. Thanks for confirming the direction I'm considering.
This video was so helpful. Thank you so much. We wanted the interlocking vinyl plank on our kitchen floor but we were told it wasn't level that we could use glue down. I was really concerned about the glue down. I wasn't sure what it was..was it durable?? , but that's what we're going with now. The video was really helpful. Thanks.
Your video helped me make up my mind and choose glue down vinyl plank flooring (single story on slab) for both sides of my duplex. It's incredible how much vendor pushback I found after I after made this choice for my residential property. Now that it's done, I love how the quiet and solid feel as I walk on the floor. Down the road I will get some floor rugs. With a floor rug I can take it outside for a more thorough cleaning, or get rid of it and get another floor rug. No carpet pad that smells over time. Also I don't find the floor excessively cold like some suggest but I am in the south.
If you ever go back to carpet, use the pink waterproof pad! It's slightly more expensive but it has an odor block that regular 1/4 inch pad doesn't offer. It won't disintegrate either!
Yeah the floor installers in Florida are all wanting to do click floor installation cuz it's super fast for them they are not concerned about the benefits for you. And many are refusing to install tile. Can you imagine no tile installation in Florida? Ridiculous all they care about is speed and volume and screw the customer
Getting quotes of $5 a foot for installation for tile. What a joke. We on a construction company and build high-end swimming pools are men are paid by the hour not by the foot
You mentioned waiting for the adhesive on a glue down to get tacky before installing tiles. This is sometimes know as waiting for the adhesive to flash off. The term flash off came from the old days when the adhesives had a VOC (volatile organic compound) component. The installer would spread adhesive and then throw a lit match on it. Voom! and the adhesive was instantly tacky and ready for installation.
Very neat! We always say waiting for it to set up
Thank you, i will be choosing the glue down for my rental because of the repair ease.
This is what I wanted to learn. I have an RV. I want to put down LVP. I'm concerned that the self adhesive type may not be sticky enough for the particle board. I'm also worried about moisture. Thank you for this information. I will not get floating because if I do have to replace any portion, I don't want to be pulling out my hair! lol.
It just makes sense. And even if I seem splits and a little water gets down in there the glue is it gonna let it go very far and your damage is going to be minimal. Kind of like old glue down linoleum, water could get in around the edges but it wouldn’t travel under the whole floor and destroyed all of the wood
Thank you for sharing your thoughts ideas on floors.
I believe if was up to me I believe I would choose the glue down.
I agree with what you said about glue down being superior if you have to replace one and if you have an older home with uneven floors. I have rentals that are all old and glue down is the only way to go.
Excellent video thank you so much based on your reviews I'm going to go with glue down
Thank you so useful, I was veering towards glue down and now I will definitely go with that! ❤
Thank you for this video! I have been looking for exactly the explanation for the difference in the glue down and the floating vinyl floors… I am trying to decide which to install in my house and after watching this I think I’m going to strongly consider the glue down because of the easy repair capabilities… Also I have found the glue down is lower cost than the floating planks… This was very helpful!
Glue down would be much harder to repair then a float LVP.
Whe. It's floating they literally just pop it in. So if a small area were to get damage by maybe a leak under your home in one area, once the leak is repaired you can just pop up the planks that are damaged and pop new ones back in. That's why I always recommend to get over 30sq ft extra plank.
@@trisha8454 lol floating planks as in the one she showed in this video is nowhere near easy to replace. Pretty impossible actually!!
Wrongo chief. There is a youtube video showing how easy it is to repair!!
Friendly reminder that glue down LVP may be cheaper but you’ll still need the glue and other materials
very nice video well played out and the honesty of your sharing. The way i look at it, depends upon your situation, our church is all glue down and very durable, very high traffic they drag chairs, tables, and you name it, spills, drops and the floor is completely undamaged 2 years now being installed still holding up. I am a contractor i take care of the church I've installed both styles. but here is the bottom line. preparation is key to having a job done right in order for it to last whether its glue down or float. we now are going to be doing the daycare we will be doing glue down, why because of the kids, water, and high traffic all over the place. happy repairs and remodels enjoy amen.
Thanks for sharing your plus and minus on LVP. My wife and I have been looking for the last month on which product to use. After listening to the experts at the flooring stores - we've been to at least 10 locally, we've decided to go with glue down LVP - 9"x72". Now to get the best price with delivery included, no hassle returns and any discount on the floor glue. If anyone else can advise on how to reduce costs - or get more value please leave your comment. Thanks.
I was planning for a floating LVP for our basement remodel but the contractor suggested glue down. Glue down seems like a pretty good option
Our glue down is holding up well so far! We like it.
Thanks for sharing. I am in the process of adding a bathroom to my 1910 house, (in attic space so new subfloor has been created), and have been advised by the majority of flooring 'experts' and a mfr to use a glue-down LVP to better support a freestanding flatbottom tub and footed vanity that must be installed on top of the floor. According to the consensus, the weight of a filled tub and too many touchpoints with the tub, vanity and toilet would cause issues for a floating floor. Some installers are encouraging the floating floor which I believe is due to an easier install for them. Thoughts?
This is catching you a year later, but I agree. As in all things, installers and manufacturers seem to guide the trends in spite of what consumers want or need. I just went to HD and the guy who helped me behaved as if he'd never heard of glue down LVP. Also, as an aside, I heard the Canadian designer Candace Olson say that in areas like bathrooms and in particular around the toilet where men aren't (cough) very mindful, sheet vinyl is the most sanitary because of the nature of a continuous floor without seams. And she's right.
I have been mired in choosing a floor for the past month. I leveled the subfloor from underneath. I did a cheap LVP? in a bedroom 5 years ago. The wear is great but the seams do open. I seem to be jung up on that wear layer. Some say thick others don't say. I feel the glue down is better than floating. I never thought about the repair aspect so thank you. But once we settle on a brand, we have to pick a color. That will take another month. Yikes
Sales guy says you first pick the color…then go from there.
You made me decide on Glue down thank you 🙏🏾💕
I had floating LVP installed on my second floor. Everything you said it is true. I am downsizing to a new home where I will have glue down LVP. Floating is not worth the hassle not when it costs twice has much.
Which LVP flooring did you install that came apart?
I have glue down in my bathroom and in my basement. There have been no issues with is so far. I have laminate in my upper floor and already within 6 months, I see dents and scratches in it where my toddler was throwing his toys or where we dropped a screwdriver. On my main floor we have a click on vinyl and its been a disaster! We installed it less than 5 years ago and its cracking, beaking, has scratches. I basically have to replace it. edges of plant started lifting and from time to time vacuum will hit it at an angle that causes it to chip and then inner part lifts off. its unusable. I hate click on vinyl with passion. and I bought more expensive ones. I covered some dents with a carpet but now its breaking in places where i can no longer cover it up and i have to replace it.
What’s the name of the glued flooring you got? How can I buy the Same one
Great info! We are remodeling a double wide. Def going with the glue down flooring!
I know it's a year later respons3, but we're remodeling our new to us doublewide and need to remove the original 1998 carpet. We have a family member donating 600sf of glue down to ys. Any general suggestions regarding prep or anything? We're new to manuf homes. We're in West TN.
Humm... good to have watched your video now before we start the whole house floor replacement. Things to think about.
Great Video supper informative! I do have a question...what was the biggest driver that led you to LVP VS a true solid wood floor or pre finished wood laminate?
Wood laminate plank are coming a long way in the performance aspect if you ask me! I recommend it as much as my LVP. But I try and steer so many clear from actual hardwood now a day. It's hands down the most expensive. And the only plus I can see in having it is the owner KNOWING they have hardwood. Otherwise hardwood is hands down bottom of the list in performance, cleanabulity, and durability! My opinon!
As one who has bought 2 houses in 5 years and walked through MANY houses in the process...... floating LVP is BLATANTLY obvious and sounds insanely cheap. It's got the clickety clack, hollow sound. It had turned me off completely to the flooring type altogether. I'm about to redo my lower level in my tri level and realized.... why not just glue it down... should eliminate the CHEAP ass hollow sound. With this realization a whole realm of possibilities just opened up to me.
What's my point? If you're toying with the option of LVP I'd highly recommend glue down. Floating is just so obvious the second you walk on it because it WILL sound hollow..... which.... IMO..... sounds cheap.
Would getting a thicker material "fix" that tap/cheap sound?
I have CoreTec throughout my entire home and have for the last 4 years and you don't hear a thing. It sounds like you've been walking on some cheap stuff. My husband's flooring business I sell every bit of flooring and I know exactly the sound you're talking about. My fav thing to tell people is you get what you pay for. If you go with a 6mil float with no sound silencer or anything you're going to have that. Not only is my floor make no sound, it's actually very soft as well. I also paid $5.99 Sq. FT. For it as well. If you walk on a 20 mil quality product, you will not experience that. I also attended a seminar where they had engineered hardwood up next to LVP and had hardwood experts test themselves to see who can tell which was which. That LVP impresses me more everyday.
@@TexanCrusher you could get sound silencer pad to put under your flooring to fix that. Or just get a higher quality LVP preferably over 12mil and that will help as well
@@trisha8454 Can we use LVT click with underfloor heating? We have 60 sq meter kitchen dinner and living space which are trying to do but all fitters are suggesting glue down and not click .....can you suggest
also if in future we want to change the floor how easy or difficult it is to remove the glue down floor
@@vaniv2886 the reason everyone is suggesting glue down is to ensure the vinyl will not lift or buckle. You will need to make sure the heating wires are fully submerged in self leveler before laying the lvt to ensure the surface is completely flat. I do not suggest laying click over heating elements as the heat will cause it to expand and it will in turn buckle your vinyl. Removing adhesive will depend on the strength of the glue you will use. You would need to use a heating gun to loosen the glue. It just sounds like an all around headache to me. I hope this helped.
Another awesome video, thanks! You are without a doubt one of the best communicators on RUclips!
More like slowest. Sheesh. 2x playback speed is 100% necessary.
Will be doing glue down on my lower level over top of ceramic. Will be applying Ardex or similar to fill the grout joints. Did click on the upper level and it was a pain removing the existing tile.
Why wouldn't you just install over the top of the ceramic?
We r about to get the glue down installed in our 1100 sqf home, we decided that before watching and had some doubts but now upon watching I am happy with our choice
Seriously, we are literally back almost to the old vinyl squares with the tacky back kind of nonsense. I don't get it. I use the sheet vinyl Armstrong it's about a buck a square foot. Virtually no seams. Either glue it down or float it or some of both. Oh well you know HD loves the garbage in boxes that is 3x the price and 1/3 the quality.
This video helped me a lot thanks
A year ago I installed the click LifeProof stuff from Home Depot in our bathroom and it worked out well....we are now building a new house and when I received a full plank glue down sample from Shaw flooring I was a little surprised how thin and flimsy it was. (15ml wear layer, 2mm thick) obviously I wasn’t educated enough and since my LifeProof had the backing with nice thicker sturdier feel, I was thrown off by the Shaw glue down plank. So are you saying that the 2mm stuff isn’t necessarily a bad thing? I as well will be using this on an entire 1st floor and upstairs hallway and loft. So probably 1200-1400 sq ft. Thanks for the helpful video!
The thinness is not a bad thing! Glue down floors are usually that thin. The reason thickness matters for the floating click together type of floor is to better hold the seems together and combat subfloor unevenness.
2 years late sorry, but there are 4-7mm Glue Down floors. Very good quality.
My 35 year old modern cape was part of a development with a model house and others in various stages of completion. When bought, the interior of my house was completed. Unfortunately my flooring was done by cheapskates and idiots. The floor was not engineered properly (neither properly strong nor level) and I am limited in what I could do to strengthen and level it. Didn't have the vertical clearance to put in plywood thicker than 3/8" after the original ceramic tile and the plywood it was secured to - was removed. Some shoring up of the subfloor from below will be done to make the floor stronger, quieter, and more level. Flooring engineer told me that click-In would fail pretty quickly so glue down was my only choice. We shall see how it all works out.
Hi, I have a Awning window which is floor to ceiling height. I liked one LVP (Glue) which is "Water resistant" they call. I am just wondering if it can get damaged by the Rain water ? Since the window is till floor, there is a high chance of rain water comes in through that even before we close it. Whats your suggession ?
Great video...you have convinced me, I am going with glue down.
Is glue down an option for a few years or is it a nightmare to pull up?
I think the glue is going to be a big pia to get up.
It depends on the quality of your glue but it'll be a pain regaurdless
As far as the look goes, which method do you prefer?
🤔 WHAT if you glue down a click together LVP.
🤷🏽♂️ best of both worlds?
idk, asking
What happened to Armstrong Luxe Plank --individual planks adhere to each other and not the floor????????????????????
You certainly make some good points about both types of LVP.
However, you are comparing glued down LVP installed by a professional flooring installer versus floating LVP installed by yourself and that’s not a fair comparison.
Also, Carpet has seams. Flooring installed in planks such as LVP has joints.
What do you think about glue down LVP over basement concrete that may over time building moisture from ground below? Would there be mold issue or other unforseen problem?
I don't think I'd put a glue down onto concrete, but I can't say I have specific experience with that. You might do a bit more research. If you're going to lay a floating floor, you can try putting self leveling compound on the concrete to help prepare for the floating floor to stay level.
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog Thanks for the quick reply! We're considering the glue down because we have a floor drain that has slope around it, in maybe a 4'x4' area. We can't really level that area. And I know there's always tile as another option, but that's really above our diy skill level.
Hm not sure how to help you there. I think most adhesives for glue down floor are meant to adhere plywood subfloor, maybe it wouldn't work on concrete? Not sure...
We were talking to a guy who has been selling flooring for over 30 years. We are looking to install LVP in our basement and it would go on concrete and he actually recommended we use glue Down over click down. So yes..
It can go directly Onto concrete…literally. We asked about any extra padding underneath and he claimed it would be unnecessary.
@@QueenBB53 hi, have u considered adding a concrete sealant before putting down the glue down planks?
Thank you for sharing your information! 😊
Hi, I purchased a house with thick arrah floating boards in the main areas. I have since extended the same click system into the 4 bedrooms. However, an issue is denting & expanding & cracking in a couple of spots. I now have to work out how to patch these spots & what compound I patch them with because it is impossible to replace.
Ps, I had to get the floors levelled before installing in my 100 yr old Californian bungalow.
Do you mean jarrah floating boards? If it's wood you can fill the seams with wood putty and stain the wood putty to look like the rest of the floor.
What was the name of the flooring that came apart?
Thank you very much. Really helpful
I would like to install LVF over my kitchen tile. Do I need to remove the tiles first or can I lay the LVF on top? I really don’t want to dig up tiles.
If the tiles are level you can lay the lvp floor overtop.
If you have a deep grout line it will telegraph trough
Crazy how commonly I see DIYers put down floating LVP without first putting down an underlayment pad
The salesman at the floor place we went to said you don’t need it.
Empire Today does it to. Found out after a faucet leakage.
Thanks for the info. Keep up the hard work
Is glue down same as peel and stick?
No
M.I.L.F. man I love flooring ! 😊
A better term to use is "water resistant".
Loved the video!
I'm so glad! 😊
Really well done video. Thanks!
Well done and thank you! I’m going to stick to porcelain tile.
Did you consider self adhesive LVP? So much easier than either the click-together and the glue down.
What about peel and stick vinyl plank flooring?
In general the adhesive on that type of floor is not strong enough to create the kind of durability I'd need to withstand my kids. I'd recommend peel and stick for only very light traffic floors.
What's the name of the glue?
You right glow type is better, but who keeps his home without Chang the floor after 5 or 7 years.
She should really stop calling herself not an expert :) Many bits and pieces of information that I haven't heard in other videos, which in my opinion separates expert from someone who put together vinyl once or twice and calls himself an expert
loose lay with minimal glue is now the preferred installation method... you might research loose lay
Awesome!
I am partial to glue down LVP. I like the easy to repair aspect.
Exactly. If you have a damaged piece, use a heat gun on it to soften the glue beneath it, lift off the damaged piece, install the new one. You don't need to touch any other pieces. With the snap-together LVT, you cannot avoid messing with the adjacent pieces because you have to 'take the floor apart' to remove a damaged piece - you have to 'unsnap' the damaged piece from the adjacent pieces.
I'm getting ready to replace some wood laminate and unsnapping the pieces is a PITA, and I'm not snapping together an entire floor of new pieces. Apply the glue, let it set up, lay down the planks, roll them, BAM done.
No snapping together a huge floor-plank puzzle.
Glue down for me!
1:41 ... "and you roll over it with like a 300 pound steel roller" Yikes !!! Good luck loading a 300 lb roller into your car or carrying it into the house. The roller you are referring actually weigh 100lbs,
I"ve seen them where you fill up the roller with water & THAT"S where you get the higher weight and then drain it when done.. so not having to load a 300# roller into your vehicle. ALSO I"ve only seen people recommend 75# roller........ ?????
@@rickx1621 My original comment was meant to be humorous by pointing she innocently said "with like a 300 pound steel roller". Fact: The is no such thing... as a 300lb steel "flooring installation roller. Flooring rollers come in all sizes, from 35 lbs, 75lbs, 100lbs to 150 lbs with the most common weight being the 100 lb version. I've been around the flooring business for many decades. The water filled 300lb roller you speak of is actually a water or sand filled "LAWN" roller used for packing down loose dirt, seed, or sod etc. Yes, I imagine someone could drag a lawn roller into their house and fill it with water but hopefully no one will ever attempt it. Yes, it would probably work but the biggest problem aside from pushing a 300 pound roller around your house is once filled, there would be is no easy way to drain the water without making a huge mess. You remove the drain plug and just let the water "glug" out until it's empty... Yikes! Definitely not something you would want to do inside a house. But hey, if we want to introduce water filled lawn rollers into this equation I've seen water filled versions that weigh 3,400 pounds when filled... now that would certainly do the job... if not buckle your flooring joists.😂
Nice 👍
As far as installation, lvt is easier.
Prep is CRITICAL with either
What's a good thinkness?
If you go with a float I'd recommend T lease a 12mil
@@trisha8454 so would the one from costco be any good?
@@savelinafilemoni8656 I don't have a Costco in my town so I'm not sure what product it is. Just look for the mil layer on the box and if you want something that will last, make sure its not under a 12 mil. A lot of those have a decent residential warranty as well. But also a lot of things will void that warranty as well.
@@trisha8454 sounds great, thank you so much.
Great information
Now I’m wondering if anyone has ever glued down a floating floor before
They absolutely have! Lol
Getting ready to do glue down in our rental property
That’s what I’ve decided to go with in 2 of our duplex’s. Has carpet now. Will never put carpet in another rental.
you have a 130 year old farm house?! sorry...that really caught my attention.
738
Glue down
What happened to Armstrong Luxe Plank --individual planks adhere to each other and not the floor????????????????????