I like em too, because longer videos means more commercial time, and that means more $ at the end of the month. Going to need it, as my HOG needs some expensive repairs. 3,000 in engine work. Apparently a hand grenade went off inside!.... or at least that is how the mechanic described it.
yet again it looks like you had fun in the circus of over stuffed reciever land I have a nad power amp and it stopped working when you turn it on for 5 seconds it is fine then you see a puff of smoke and it is coming from the main board but do not know what to do it is a far cry from this jungle you are doing .it looks amazing and when new I am sure it was wonderful the amp was my dads it was brand new when he got it and the issue started the day after he passed always so I will just wait till i get smarter and more comfortable before I try to fix it I like to repair stuff and only do what I know I can do and with you here I really learn a great deal you are a great teacher and really know your stuff the brand is NAD 2150 4 speaker 2 channel power amp .I hope that I can get it working it really sounded wonderful thank you for all your videos and your time all the best
Dave, Thanks a lot for this video. I especially like it when you make comments about signal bleed through while you're doing glue removal. I learned a lot. Keep 'em coming! Regards, Tom
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
As always, you do a great job. I love your commentary in your videos. When you first look at the receiver it looks like a nice "modular" design until they add all of the extra wires to the "modular" boards. I think all designers/engineers should be mandated to work on/repair the stuff they design, not just electronics, but mechanical (i.e. cars).
Must admit through my headphone system I liked the sound of the NAD; it reminded me of the Mission Cyrus One I brought back to life and which is now part of my main system. Might look on Ebay for a spares or repair NAD 3020 for the spare room.
Keep up the good work. Your channel gives me confidence to investigate issues myself. I'm no newbie to electronics, just lacked confidence. Being an it engineer different field.
This vid came up in my search for a possible reason, the FM band on my Yamaha T-07 from the 70s would totally drop out after 10 to 20 mins of use. There were no obvious bad Caps, but after scraping away caked glue on deposits around some solder joints, the unit is working fine now. Thanks for the tip on the glue getting conductive with age.
At around 11:48 you pop the two daughter boards off of the main board. For the life of me, I can't get those boards out. Can you explain how you got them off without breaking the PCBs? It looks like those edge connectors have locking tabs on them and I can't get at them..
@@12voltvids You're not kidding this amp is a pain to take apart. Before I put it back together, I'm going to reflow the solder on those edge connectors, I had to rock them so hard to get them apart. Many thanks for showing the way. I would have been in over my head otherwise.
When I was working as a engineer in radio and TV stations 40 years ago we will find counterfeit RCA tubes , which the buyer thinking of saving some money for the station (And he making a better bonus by saving money for the station) in reality was costing the station more in off air time ! We had to talk seriously to the owners or the board that they couldn't be risking on air time for the sake of economics. So counterfeit parts is not a new thing . By the way , hard to service design of this unit ! :)
Yes I know it has been going on for a long time. It really ramped up in the mid 90s when just about every semi that didn't come from the manufactutes own parts dept was a fake. Horizontal output transistors from Sony and Panasonic were 40 to 50 for 1 transistor. The ones from main were 3.00 but there was a good chance it was fake.
A couple of years ago I decided not to repair this 'modern' stuff anymore. It is junk! Period. A repair that should be done in 10 minutes takes over an hour for disassembling and reassembling. These days, you can't do a simple repair for less than $100. So, I stick to quality units from the '60 and '70 era. Even a simple Kenwood KA-300 used to have a service hatch in the old days.
@@12voltvids, I really wish they would teach a little bit of repair in University Engineering courses. Unfortunately it all seems to be focused on theory and design with no thought of operations, maintenance and repair.
@@philipandrew1626 The manufactutes don't want a repair industry. Having a repair industry means stocking parts and having inventory of spare parts that might break means that the costs associated with having these parts drives up the cost of running the business. So no parts , no repairs. Manufactutes replace defective units. No parts inventory means they can reduce costs. I know it sucks but that is the way the industry went. I sure am glad I got out when I did.
I keep on telling myself that I'm not going to fix this new crap but people keep on asking me to do it :( But yeah you're right - doing this stuff as a business is not really viable. I quit doing this for a living years ago and now it's just a hobby so I can afford to spend a bit more time messing with this stuff. I think the people who design this crap should be required to spend a week in a repair shop to se the kind of problems they cause. Then again, if I were a conspiracy theorist I might say that they do it deliberately to make people buy new rather than fix their old stuff :(
while my Yahmaha R-V905 is quite out dated it never gives me any fuss. My only issue with it is until it gets warm there is slight noise on the digital side of it. Me thinks it might be old caps but it is not that old so I don't bother with it. the amp section is flawless. I did how ever replace the main power filtering caps. pulls a healthy 28 watts idle and only goes up when it plays sound so it is doing great.
It would be a nightmare trying to put everything back in correctly. Amazing ! I have a 1979 Radio Shack Catalog. Also an electronics dictionary from them . I save stuff, lol.
Is there any possible way to make the surrounds on my 5.1 system the same volume as the fronts without having to turn the fronts down? I hate how the surrounds are so low at max volume in the settings, and the fronts are of normal volume level.
@@brony4life1982 hmm, must be different efficiency or big difference in speaker cable wire length or wire Guage. Are they the same brand size model of speaker? If not, even though 8ohm they may have different impedance curves based on frequency of sound. To even out sound you could add a resistor in series, picking right size in ohms will be a challenge till volumes are close...
Hi. I’ve just ordered one of these in the UK. Same camera different name badge , can you use more than one per WiFi ? Front and back garden etc ? Cheers
So 50 screws and a hour's work to change a filter capacitor; obviously not designed with repair in mind. I still have my set of Archer tools which includes that pick and scraper. It must be 35 years ago that I purchased it. Good repair, thanks.
Well I probably got my set of Archer tools when I was about 12 and I am 56 now, so yes they are pretty old. I have the wire wrap tool somewhere too, and the metal bristle brush.
The manual would be required for the procedure. Bias is not necessary on solid state amps unless components have been changed in the driver or output stages.
Hi, I have sony car headunit cdx-f5500 , I want to ask is there any method with which we can hack bus audio input and turn it on? Sony offers different accessories to turn bus input on , but I don't want to use them. Aux in ports are at back of headunit but they work only when sony accessory or cd changer is connected.
Have older CD player CDC gt550 which uses similar system like above mentioned NAD or other audio equipment. I soldered extra set of Cinch cables to AUX input board traces because my front panel Aux jack leaves a lot to be desired connection wise. It would be some small IC on main board where the front Aux, CD audio L-R, and other traces lead - sorry don't have the thing apart and can't remember the IC designation. Yours might be one of these 'special' Sonys from 90s - all the manufacturers did the same, say Alpine will work Alpine CD changer but nothing else, since you use head unit to control the the changer and most would be sort of proprietary. You could try jumping the Aux inputs to different set, or even at the output of the selector IC switch for permanent, say MP3 player connection - easy and dirty way. I don't know the logic part that well and of course is almost impossible to get service manuals for head units.
@@pliedtka sony cdx-f5500x have built-in aux input port at back , but it is controlled by bus input port. That's why I was asking about turning bus input on .
@@saqibsami7967 You would need data sheet for the IC switch and start from there - what turns what, if this is what they use. Sony, Kenwood, Alpine, they would be very similar. What's so special about the head unit you have
@@pliedtka I tried my best also searched on internet for solution , but nothing worked. If you think you can figure it out . Send me your gmail id , I will share some links and details about this headunit.
I have a NAD T 765 that doesn’t switch on anymore. Started with very low sound, so I was forced to turn the volume to almost 0db. The volume would slowly increase, the longer my receiver was on. But now it won’t switch on at all. Nice watching your video, but I still wouldn’t know where to start to fix mine 😂
Hello, enjoy your videos! Amazing patients. I was wondering why you did not replace more capacitors (not the Hot bulk capacitor)? It seems to me that with that much trouble to dismantle this unit, you may as well to avoid "old cap issues" later on.
Would you put parts in out of your pocket for someone else? I had a limit of 50.00 to repair this so, I am not spending a dime more on parts that the absolute minimum. It is not like the old days where people were willing to spend money on things. When I get something in for repair most come with spend limits. I either fix it up to the limit or I don't fix it at all. Now for those that charge an estimate fee they can probably make even more money than me because they charge the 50 or 80 estimate fee, and then quote every possible part that could fail down the road. Basically hold a gun to the owners head and say it will be 300 to fix it or you can have it back and I still got your money. There is a local stereo shop that does just that as I have gotten stuff that they have been into and given huge estimates on and I get them and it is a single part causing the issue. These guys charging estimate fees can make a good living not fixing anything just giving huge estimates, so high that nobody will fix anything. I don't charge estimate fees, so if I don't repair I make nothing. If I take something apart and spend an hour and then determine it is going to be expensive and tell them how much it will be and they walk I get nothing. So when I take on a project I try to estimate what something might run before I get in, or the owner may come in and say if you can do it for 50 or 100 do it otherwise forget it. So for those jobs, the single part gets changed and not the possible failures that might happen. If someone brought me an amp and said give it a total overhaul then I would change all the caps and charge accordingly but I don't get those customers and quite frankly don't want them because those are the ones that will come back over and over because something isn't right. Things like the speaker relay takes 7 seconds to kick on and it used to take 6, or once in awhile I hear a click, or momentary hum, or some other strange problem that never recurs in the shop.
Why were so many jumper wires used on the tops of the boards as opposed to being traces on the PCB? Was it just cheaper to cut, form, place and solder all those wires instead of adding them as traces?
I changed the bulging cap and did a full recap on the board as well. I also reflowed the regulators as per your video. But it still has the same issue that sound cuts out after warmed up. Did your repair solved the problem?
@@12voltvids I'm guessing could be a cold solder joint somewhere as it only exhibits this behavior after about 10 mins too. I didn't reflow the chip on the input board though... Do you think that could be the issue?
What's the point in NAD having those fancy toroidal transformers when they do all those crap solder joints. I fricken hate those ribbon connectors too.
I don't know if this has anything to do with the issue but. I got ten PCB's from the Chinese company JLCPCB for $2. No tax, no shipping fee. For that price you 'have' to take shortcuts. The boards are great but somebody's not making any money. The laborers, no doubt, must be underpaid.
any repair shop in the UK would Fail at repairing this . I think the back of the amp looks better than the front , all those sockets. Archer sold at Tandy , yes we remember .
Discrete parts are always preferred to ipm type amplifier have some advantages. All the components are matched and are generally very nice sounding and low distortion. They however are easy to blow up.
About 30 years ago, two pre-amp section transistors blew up. But it was an easy repair on the 19. The scary part is if the O-Scope burns out. That part may be impossible to find.I try not to use the scope to preserve it but I bet the filament is on all the time. My 19 now makes a small pop when I turn it off. I bet some of those old caps are going bad.This 19 wasone of the last ones made. Sony bought the company (SuperScope) and had the last ones assembled in Japan to save money. Wow has that changed. It would be China or Vietnam now. The parts are American. Some caps are made by Temple Industries which had a factory in Tecate, Mexico close to San Diego. 50 years ago, they were probably the first Maquiladora which are so common in Tijuana (Bose, Polk, Sound United). We have a famous tech here in San Diego but he doesn't do You Tube. Google "Mike Zuccaro". He probably wouldn't work on the NADs. He likes the vintage stuff.
I have the T737 and things were overheating everywhere. No adequate ventilation. Fitted 2 overhead fans, 1 in where heating was worst, other out at opposite end. cured.
Hello 12voltvids! I wonder if you could give me any tips on my Nad T754 reciever. The front speakers works good, speaker B output works good but surround L/R cuts the sound in and out when lower frequencies comes and when I turn up the volume it goes away mostly. But if I restart the amp the issue is back. It is on all sound settings (stereo, PLII movie, etc etc) and it's mostly the right channel but sometimes both (not at the same time). I have opened the reciever and tapped some on one of the relays and then it seem to disappear. But I am not an engineer and Iam not sure how to change the relay. It doesnt seem to be possible to open the relay either? Wich is wierd. Just wondering if you could have any tips on what I can do, if I can do anything myself. *Edit I should also mention that if I switch front and back speaker outputs the problem goes to the front. So it cant be the speakers fault.
Vintage audio is great I have 3 Cerwin Vega power amps from 1975 built for the movie earthquake in Center on in the Poseidon Adventure using them for DJ power amplifiers just one unit is powering for 15 inch speaker cabinets and four 12in speaker cabinets along with two 12 inch subwoofers 1 power app it is amazing... Along with 12 mid-range speakers + 12 tweeters 12 horns..... 2 - 1800 one 3000i the only things that were done for the solder joints were redone and the coils where replaced... I hope to get 40 or 50 more years out of them.
a massive complexity of circuts in that thing ! who desinged that monster alot of old hifi makers just dont build em like used to! i was a fan of nad stereo but this one a real headache you got fix it skills !
I have an nad t765 when you turn on the receiver and makes a creaking sound for a few minutes I am assuming it stops when it warms up do you know what is causing this. Thank you
The EASIEST way to remove glue is with a soldering iron! Just keep air flow across the bench and clean your tip afterwards. But it knocks it all off in no time flat.
I thought NAD was quality.. hmm. My 80ties Akai AM32 is still running fine - and it has a hatch on the bottom. I cleaned it once and sprayed the Potentiometers.
that is just way too many boards for a simple av receiver . mine only has the main board standby power board dsp board and the two passive daughter boards for input and then well the board for the controls.
Well done :-D, i bet that glue did have an effect as well as the joints. Far too complex for me, too much to fail. That cap was too close to the heatsinks, they always do that and i'm sure it's done to create a shorter life. My pioneer SA706 has done the job fine. (Before my ears went odd)
You know that Rubicon capacitor might be a counterfeit? Just trying to be helpful. :-D Once again, how you were not cussing up a storm removing that board...
You know this is the type of non productive comments I was talking about when I had the new one. I really don't give a shit if it is a fake or not. I get what they sell at the store. I am not responsible if it is a fake and it blows again. As long as it lasts a month that's all I am concerned about. There is a good chance the owner of this will turn around and sell it again. That seems to be what many of them do with these units. Get them working so they can sell them for profit.
Amazed that cap hadn't blown its top! Gotta wonder if they had it running close to its maximum rated voltage which would be indicative of a poor design..or perhaps a little planned obsolescence which ever way you wanna look at it! Of course, you'd never expect it from a big-name manufacturer..but as so often, the wonders never cease to amaze! ;)
Actually NAD do design their equipment well, but they farm out the manufacturing and I am sure the cap was running close to it's rating. It was an 85C, and I replaced it with a 105C. The new one does not get that hot running at 37C after several hours, and I would imagine it is just convection transfer from the heat sinks around it.
I have a nad c352, I changed out all the caps. The ones in there weren't gone but we're stressed. Cheap rubbish. So I put elna and Panasonic ones in and it's working great. The c352 has a removable hatch underneath so was a dream to work on. Great video as always 😃
I saw once, on a television board- what appeared to be coca cola residue- everything worked fine for about ten minutes, when it warmed up, gooey residue would pull cracks in the printed circuit foil apart, opening the circuit.
Thats why they make that.access point on the bottom.. so you dont do what you just did....alot.of the times that cap.blows because of.a.bad resistor or other component..
20 to 30 years I dealt with CEI Inc. out of Dayton Ohio.... A few weeks ago I talked to the owner and got my old account reactivated... He informed me that the overseas market knocked his business for a loop.... Now people regret buying the fake and clones..... His business is picking back up and he keeps a eye out for fake markets trying to sell to him....
Seems they went through an incredible amount of effort to avoid double-sided circuit boards. I've never seen so many jumper links, wow! Cost-cutting at its finest. This would be much less of a nightmare to work on if they had used double-sided boards, it would have cut down the size of the boards by about half!
Lead-free solder, cheap underrated parts and a difficult to fix designed assembly. This is a true recipe for failure after a set amount of hours. Dare I posit "planned obsolescence"? Is it any wonder why the military and the hospitals insist on leaded solder for assembly? They aren't having anything to do with "consumer-grade" equipment these days, that's for sure.
@@rayhunter7371 Yep, the no-lead alloy adds a degree of instability and they want reliability. It's one less thing to worry about going wrong in a critical operating environment.
You could make instant cofee with 65C :) The placement of the boards and cooling system looks a bit like Onkyo (nowhere near sound) but the PCB's design with all those bridges and cables, almost no SMD components and tracing is terrible, no wonder why its so noisy and looks Chineese cheap. TC9273F is shift register with dual 10 analog switches on outputs and that is why it clicks when no sound ... terrible mute function or crack on joint, if problem on one channel, but if all cuts YES the bulging cap
I repaired these new when still under warranty, horrible and one of the atrocious T series amps that ruined NAD's reputation. Those caps always dried out, the regs fail and also the DSP board. Int problems were also caused by oxidation of the flexible ribbon connectors.. just a mess of an amp.
Shit comment about ebay sellers pal !! …. I bench test and service everything I sell and it wouldn't get listed unless I was 100% sure it was fit for purpose !!!!…. NAD stuff has always been marginal since the 80's and generally made in China since the onset !!!!
I didn't say all ebay sellers were bad, but many are. I always tested and serviced my gear before selling and sold off most of my studio stuff after I upgraded to new equipment. All sales went smoothly until I got a fraudulent buyer in 2007 that cost me big time. Never sold another thing.
I think the idea of companies these days is make units unrepairable or so difficult ppl just toss them and buy new ones. Today, greed > quality and that’s a shame.
I don't buy things on fleabay. Every thing I have purchased had one thing of another wrong with it. Amazon market is even worse. I bought an old Heatkit panaplex clock and had to fix it, I also bought a collector calculator with panaplex display and it was totally dead. 2 DAT machines that both had many issues. My son just bought a vintage Nintendo game console from a seller on Amazon. I won't say what he paid, but it was way too much. Guess what? The controller doesn't work. I don't sell on fleabay either. Got burned by a buyer that claimed what I sold 14 years ago didn't work when it arrived, and caused me a major headache with them because they refused to ship it back.
Oh, men! Every time you disassemble anything I think myself I wouldn't let you touch any of my equipment even with a stick from five feet away! You are so rude! Sorry for this but this time it was almost painfull watching it. Nevertheless you make interesting and educational videos so thumbs up.
Nice video, I like your hifi repairs very much, it's very educational for me. Please more hifi repairs! more! more! :-)
Hifi repairs are the ones I focus on because people are more willing to spend money on good audio gear than cheap TVs.
love the long length repair videos much more rewarding than the short snippets . Keep up the good work ( from a fellow repair tech old skool!)
I like em too, because longer videos means more commercial time, and that means more $ at the end of the month. Going to need it, as my HOG needs some expensive repairs. 3,000 in engine work. Apparently a hand grenade went off inside!.... or at least that is how the mechanic described it.
@@12voltvids keep em coming :)
You have the patience of a saint.
They don't make these units with servicing in mind, like I a lot of them did in the 70's & 80's. Nice repair, thanks for sharing.
yet again it looks like you had fun in the circus of over stuffed reciever land I have a nad power amp and it stopped working when you turn it on for 5 seconds it is fine then you see a puff of smoke and it is coming from the main board but do not know what to do it is a far cry from this jungle you are doing .it looks amazing and when new I am sure it was wonderful the amp was my dads it was brand new when he got it and the issue started the day after he passed always so I will just wait till i get smarter and more comfortable before I try to fix it I like to repair stuff and only do what I know I can do and with you here I really learn a great deal you are a great teacher and really know your stuff the brand is NAD 2150 4 speaker 2 channel power amp .I hope that I can get it working it really sounded wonderful thank you for all your videos and your time all the best
Dave,
Thanks a lot for this video. I especially like it when you make comments about signal bleed through while you're doing glue removal. I learned a lot. Keep 'em coming!
Regards, Tom
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Dominik Shepherd Instablaster ;)
As always, you do a great job. I love your commentary in your videos. When you first look at the receiver it looks like a nice "modular" design until they add all of the extra wires to the "modular" boards. I think all designers/engineers should be mandated to work on/repair the stuff they design, not just electronics, but mechanical (i.e. cars).
I applaud your patience. I was watching you tear it down and I would have ripped a few of those boards out and tossed the lot in the recycle bin.
I love your percussive maintenance!
Was the AM tuner picking up the I2C bus or something?
so much for shielding.
Must admit through my headphone system I liked the sound of the NAD; it reminded me of the Mission Cyrus One I brought back to life and which is now part of my main system. Might look on Ebay for a spares or repair NAD 3020 for the spare room.
Keep up the good work. Your channel gives me confidence to investigate issues myself. I'm no newbie to electronics, just lacked confidence. Being an it engineer different field.
NAD used a lot of crap parts (caps) in the day. Whenever I buy an older NAD unit for myself, I just do a full recap and put in quality Japanese parts.
I recently serviced my NAD 2600 power envelope amplifier, 1986 vintage.
I noticed that the caps were Rubycon branded.
This vid came up in my search for a possible reason, the FM band on my Yamaha T-07 from the 70s would totally drop out after 10 to 20 mins of use. There were no obvious bad Caps, but after scraping away caked glue on deposits around some solder joints, the unit is working fine now. Thanks for the tip on the glue getting conductive with age.
The suffering is real here. So many screws
I just got myself a T762 and the same capacitor is bulging as well. Great video. Thanks again
always good to take care of something before its a problem great job !
At around 11:48 you pop the two daughter boards off of the main board. For the life of me, I can't get those boards out. Can you explain how you got them off without breaking the PCBs? It looks like those edge connectors have locking tabs on them and I can't get at them..
Just rock them back and forth and they will let go
@@12voltvids You're not kidding this amp is a pain to take apart. Before I put it back together, I'm going to reflow the solder on those edge connectors, I had to rock them so hard to get them apart. Many thanks for showing the way. I would have been in over my head otherwise.
When I was working as a engineer in radio and TV stations 40 years ago we will find counterfeit RCA tubes , which the buyer thinking of saving some money for the station (And he making a better bonus by saving money for the station) in reality was costing the station more in off air time ! We had to talk seriously to the owners or the board that they couldn't be risking on air time for the sake of economics. So counterfeit parts is not a new thing . By the way , hard to service design of this unit ! :)
Yes I know it has been going on for a long time. It really ramped up in the mid 90s when just about every semi that didn't come from the manufactutes own parts dept was a fake. Horizontal output transistors from Sony and Panasonic were 40 to 50 for 1 transistor. The ones from main were 3.00 but there was a good chance it was fake.
@@12voltvids Yeah. We had that problem with the Sony PVM series .
A couple of years ago I decided not to repair this 'modern' stuff anymore. It is junk! Period. A repair that should be done in 10 minutes takes over an hour for disassembling and reassembling. These days, you can't do a simple repair for less than $100. So, I stick to quality units from the '60 and '70 era. Even a simple Kenwood KA-300 used to have a service hatch in the old days.
So did I and I despise getting these units. Many times I just walk away.
@@12voltvids, I really wish they would teach a little bit of repair in University Engineering courses. Unfortunately it all seems to be focused on theory and design with no thought of operations, maintenance and repair.
@@philipandrew1626
The manufactutes don't want a repair industry. Having a repair industry means stocking parts and having inventory of spare parts that might break means that the costs associated with having these parts drives up the cost of running the business. So no parts , no repairs. Manufactutes replace defective units. No parts inventory means they can reduce costs. I know it sucks but that is the way the industry went. I sure am glad I got out when I did.
I keep on telling myself that I'm not going to fix this new crap but people keep on asking me to do it :(
But yeah you're right - doing this stuff as a business is not really viable. I quit doing this for a living years ago and now it's just a hobby so I can afford to spend a bit more time messing with this stuff. I think the people who design this crap should be required to spend a week in a repair shop to se the kind of problems they cause. Then again, if I were a conspiracy theorist I might say that they do it deliberately to make people buy new rather than fix their old stuff :(
@@countzero1136
Of course they do this intentionally. Manufactutes don't want stuff to be repaired.
while my Yahmaha R-V905 is quite out dated it never gives me any fuss. My only issue with it is until it gets warm there is slight noise on the digital side of it. Me thinks it might be old caps but it is not that old so I don't bother with it. the amp section is flawless. I did how ever replace the main power filtering caps. pulls a healthy 28 watts idle and only goes up when it plays sound so it is doing great.
It would be a nightmare trying to put everything back in correctly. Amazing ! I have a 1979 Radio Shack Catalog. Also an electronics dictionary from them . I save stuff, lol.
radio shack too bad there gone that was my toy store lol!
I actually still have one of their Semi-Conductor cross reference books!
Is there any possible way to make the surrounds on my 5.1 system the same volume as the fronts without having to turn the fronts down? I hate how the surrounds are so low at max volume in the settings, and the fronts are of normal volume level.
Get speakers with the same impedance.
@@airgliderz they are all 8 ohm.
@@brony4life1982 hmm, must be different efficiency or big difference in speaker cable wire length or wire Guage.
Are they the same brand size model of speaker? If not, even though 8ohm they may have different impedance curves based on frequency of sound.
To even out sound you could add a resistor in series, picking right size in ohms will be a challenge till volumes are close...
The surrounds aren't supposed to be loud they're for ambience lol
Hi. I’ve just ordered one of these in the UK. Same camera different name badge , can you use more than one per WiFi ? Front and back garden etc ?
Cheers
So 50 screws and a hour's work to change a filter capacitor; obviously not designed with repair in mind. I still have my set of Archer tools which includes that pick and scraper. It must be 35 years ago that I purchased it. Good repair, thanks.
Well I probably got my set of Archer tools when I was about 12 and I am 56 now, so yes they are pretty old. I have the wire wrap tool somewhere too, and the metal bristle brush.
Hello - can you tell the procedure of adjusting bias - how much time give it to warm up...
The manual would be required for the procedure. Bias is not necessary on solid state amps unless components have been changed in the driver or output stages.
Depends on model, I give 10-15min to warm up, but some units are special and after initial adj will ask for recheck and adj.
The only good thing I could spot in that receiver was the transformer. LOL
As others here has said, I stick to the pre 1990 stuff.
Nice video, thanks.
That music makes me feel like iam at hometown buffett!
Hi, I have sony car headunit cdx-f5500 , I want to ask is there any method with which we can hack bus audio input and turn it on? Sony offers different accessories to turn bus input on , but I don't want to use them. Aux in ports are at back of headunit but they work only when sony accessory or cd changer is connected.
Have older CD player CDC gt550 which uses similar system like above mentioned NAD or other audio equipment. I soldered extra set of Cinch cables to AUX input board traces because my front panel Aux jack leaves a lot to be desired connection wise. It would be some small IC on main board where the front Aux, CD audio L-R, and other traces lead - sorry don't have the thing apart and can't remember the IC designation. Yours might be one of these 'special' Sonys from 90s - all the manufacturers did the same, say Alpine will work Alpine CD changer but nothing else, since you use head unit to control the the changer and most would be sort of proprietary. You could try jumping the Aux inputs to different set, or even at the output of the selector IC switch for permanent, say MP3 player connection - easy and dirty way. I don't know the logic part that well and of course is almost impossible to get service manuals for head units.
@@pliedtka sony cdx-f5500x have built-in aux input port at back , but it is controlled by bus input port. That's why I was asking about turning bus input on .
@@saqibsami7967
You would need data sheet for the IC switch and start from there - what turns what, if this is what they use. Sony, Kenwood, Alpine, they would be very similar. What's so special about the head unit you have
@@pliedtka I tried my best also searched on internet for solution , but nothing worked.
If you think you can figure it out . Send me your gmail id , I will share some links and details about this headunit.
I have a NAD T 765 that doesn’t switch on anymore. Started with very low sound, so I was forced to turn the volume to almost 0db. The volume would slowly increase, the longer my receiver was on. But now it won’t switch on at all. Nice watching your video, but I still wouldn’t know where to start to fix mine 😂
Hello, enjoy your videos! Amazing patients. I was wondering why you did not replace more capacitors (not the Hot bulk capacitor)? It seems to me that with that much trouble to dismantle this unit, you may as well to avoid "old cap issues" later on.
Would you put parts in out of your pocket for someone else? I had a limit of 50.00 to repair this so, I am not spending a dime more on parts that the absolute minimum. It is not like the old days where people were willing to spend money on things. When I get something in for repair most come with spend limits. I either fix it up to the limit or I don't fix it at all. Now for those that charge an estimate fee they can probably make even more money than me because they charge the 50 or 80 estimate fee, and then quote every possible part that could fail down the road. Basically hold a gun to the owners head and say it will be 300 to fix it or you can have it back and I still got your money.
There is a local stereo shop that does just that as I have gotten stuff that they have been into and given huge estimates on and I get them and it is a single part causing the issue. These guys charging estimate fees can make a good living not fixing anything just giving huge estimates, so high that nobody will fix anything. I don't charge estimate fees, so if I don't repair I make nothing. If I take something apart and spend an hour and then determine it is going to be expensive and tell them how much it will be and they walk I get nothing. So when I take on a project I try to estimate what something might run before I get in, or the owner may come in and say if you can do it for 50 or 100 do it otherwise forget it. So for those jobs, the single part gets changed and not the possible failures that might happen. If someone brought me an amp and said give it a total overhaul then I would change all the caps and charge accordingly but I don't get those customers and quite frankly don't want them because those are the ones that will come back over and over because something isn't right. Things like the speaker relay takes 7 seconds to kick on and it used to take 6, or once in awhile I hear a click, or momentary hum, or some other strange problem that never recurs in the shop.
@@12voltvids that definitely makes "cents".......😁
Sir, have you made a video of Servicing/ Repairing a Pioneer VSA 910 AV Amp?
Why were so many jumper wires used on the tops of the boards as opposed to being traces on the PCB? Was it just cheaper to cut, form, place and solder all those wires instead of adding them as traces?
Don't ask me I didn't design it. Possibly to move conductors away from board to reduce mutual interference?
That is a buddy looking receiver. Lol :)
i always thought NAD stood for Nutty Ass Design . lol They used to make good power amps back in the day.
I changed the bulging cap and did a full recap on the board as well. I also reflowed the regulators as per your video. But it still has the same issue that sound cuts out after warmed up.
Did your repair solved the problem?
Yes working fine afaik.
@@12voltvids I'm guessing could be a cold solder joint somewhere as it only exhibits this behavior after about 10 mins too. I didn't reflow the chip on the input board though... Do you think that could be the issue?
Never Adequately Designed.
I'm surprised the cap was getting hot. If it was in a switching power supply, sure, but that board looked like it was analog voltage regulation.
What brand of ESR meter is that one ?????
Archer Brand RadioShack sold it was a quilty product from Japan
Notice that it hasn't broken, and it is probably 40 years old.
What's the point in NAD having those fancy toroidal transformers when they do all those crap solder joints. I fricken hate those ribbon connectors too.
I don't know if this has anything to do with the issue but. I got ten PCB's from the Chinese company JLCPCB for $2. No tax, no shipping fee. For that price you 'have' to take shortcuts. The boards are great but somebody's not making any money. The laborers, no doubt, must be underpaid.
What did you charge for this repair? I always find the most difficult part to make, is the price of a repair. Thanks.
Yuu
This Guy Does a Great Job
any repair shop in the UK would Fail at repairing this .
I think the back of the amp looks better than the front , all those sockets.
Archer sold at Tandy , yes we remember .
I bought a Marantz 19 in 1974. Use it everyday. No ICs. 66 discrete transistors. Built to last and be serviced.
Discrete parts are always preferred to ipm type amplifier have some advantages. All the components are matched and are generally very nice sounding and low distortion. They however are easy to blow up.
About 30 years ago, two pre-amp section transistors blew up. But it was an easy repair on the 19. The scary part is if the O-Scope burns out. That part may be impossible to find.I try not to use the scope to preserve it but I bet the filament is on all the time. My 19 now makes a small pop when I turn it off. I bet some of those old caps are going bad.This 19 wasone of the last ones made. Sony bought the company (SuperScope) and had the last ones assembled in Japan to save money. Wow has that changed. It would be China or Vietnam now. The parts are American. Some caps are made by Temple Industries which had a factory in Tecate, Mexico close to San Diego. 50 years ago, they were probably the first Maquiladora which are so common in Tijuana (Bose, Polk, Sound United). We have a famous tech here in San Diego but he doesn't do You Tube. Google "Mike Zuccaro". He probably wouldn't work on the NADs. He likes the vintage stuff.
you deserve a heavyweight wrestling belt after that battle. almost painful to watch. I applaud your resolve sir!
I have the T737 and things were overheating everywhere. No adequate ventilation. Fitted 2 overhead fans, 1 in where heating was worst, other out at opposite end. cured.
Hello 12voltvids! I wonder if you could give me any tips on my Nad T754 reciever. The front speakers works good, speaker B output works good but surround L/R cuts the sound in and out when lower frequencies comes and when I turn up the volume it goes away mostly. But if I restart the amp the issue is back. It is on all sound settings (stereo, PLII movie, etc etc) and it's mostly the right channel but sometimes both (not at the same time). I have opened the reciever and tapped some on one of the relays and then it seem to disappear. But I am not an engineer and Iam not sure how to change the relay. It doesnt seem to be possible to open the relay either? Wich is wierd. Just wondering if you could have any tips on what I can do, if I can do anything myself.
*Edit I should also mention that if I switch front and back speaker outputs the problem goes to the front. So it cant be the speakers fault.
Vintage audio is great I have 3 Cerwin Vega power amps from 1975 built for the movie earthquake in Center on in the Poseidon Adventure using them for DJ power amplifiers just one unit is powering for 15 inch speaker cabinets and four 12in speaker cabinets along with two 12 inch subwoofers 1 power app it is amazing...
Along with 12 mid-range speakers + 12 tweeters 12 horns.....
2 - 1800 one 3000i the only things that were done for the solder joints were redone and the coils where replaced...
I hope to get 40 or 50 more years out of them.
a massive complexity of circuts in that thing ! who desinged that monster alot of old hifi makers just dont build em like used to! i was a fan of nad stereo but this one a real headache you got fix it skills !
I have an nad t765 when you turn on the receiver and makes a creaking sound for a few minutes I am assuming it stops when it warms up do you know what is causing this. Thank you
Did you check the temperature on the new capacitor? : )
37
That amp is picking the alien signal from Independence Day😁😁
NUMBER ONE ELECTRONIC TECHNICIAN....GOOD
hi. my power amp b&k always have blown fuse in left channel. what maybe the cause?
Check the outputs.
12voltvids thanks will do....🙂
The EASIEST way to remove glue is with a soldering iron! Just keep air flow across the bench and clean your tip afterwards. But it knocks it all off in no time flat.
I thought NAD was quality.. hmm. My 80ties Akai AM32 is still running fine - and it has a hatch on the bottom. I cleaned it once and sprayed the Potentiometers.
Lol, had to fix my 1980s Akai twice, NAD 7155 and 400 watt Rotel amp still work perfectly.
were a bit rough manhandling those boards.....if the solder join was cracked and needed going over it probably was due to your feather touch
I didn't know they still sold nad equipment.
How much did u charge to fix this
that is just way too many boards for a simple av receiver . mine only has the main board standby power board dsp board and the two passive daughter boards for input and then well the board for the controls.
I had a cap go bad on my Av reciever so I drilled a acess hole on the bottom.
Thanks brother great work that's hepl
Hello From Agadir
but wouldn't you think a cap running that hot it would of blown the top out of it?
Well done :-D, i bet that glue did have an effect as well as the joints.
Far too complex for me, too much to fail.
That cap was too close to the heatsinks, they always do that and i'm sure it's done to create a shorter life.
My pioneer SA706 has done the job fine. (Before my ears went odd)
You know that Rubicon capacitor might be a counterfeit? Just trying to be helpful. :-D Once again, how you were not cussing up a storm removing that board...
You know this is the type of non productive comments I was talking about when I had the new one. I really don't give a shit if it is a fake or not. I get what they sell at the store. I am not responsible if it is a fake and it blows again. As long as it lasts a month that's all I am concerned about. There is a good chance the owner of this will turn around and sell it again. That seems to be what many of them do with these units. Get them working so they can sell them for profit.
Yes Rubicon Jeep reliability sucks....LOL
@@airgliderz
Anything by Fiat sucks.
What a nightmare. Nice job.
Amazed that cap hadn't blown its top! Gotta wonder if they had it running close to its maximum rated voltage which would be indicative of a poor design..or perhaps a little planned obsolescence which ever way you wanna look at it!
Of course, you'd never expect it from a big-name manufacturer..but as so often, the wonders never cease to amaze! ;)
Actually NAD do design their equipment well, but they farm out the manufacturing and I am sure the cap was running close to it's rating. It was an 85C, and I replaced it with a 105C. The new one does not get that hot running at 37C after several hours, and I would imagine it is just convection transfer from the heat sinks around it.
great job you really did it
Sorry I’m talking about the WiFi cctv camera
I have a nad c352, I changed out all the caps. The ones in there weren't gone but we're stressed. Cheap rubbish. So I put elna and Panasonic ones in and it's working great. The c352 has a removable hatch underneath so was a dream to work on. Great video as always 😃
Archer probe ,I still got mine lol.
And I still have mine.
The bigger the glob, the better the job!
I saw once, on a television board- what appeared to be coca cola residue- everything worked fine for about ten minutes, when it warmed up, gooey residue would pull cracks in the printed circuit foil apart, opening the circuit.
Just dremel a piece from the backplate so you can replace the cap
Thats why they make that.access point on the bottom.. so you dont do what you just did....alot.of the times that cap.blows because of.a.bad resistor or other component..
20 to 30 years I dealt with CEI Inc. out of Dayton Ohio.... A few weeks ago I talked to the owner and got my old account reactivated... He informed me that the overseas market knocked his business for a loop.... Now people regret buying the fake and clones..... His business is picking back up and he keeps a eye out for fake markets trying to sell to him....
Seems they went through an incredible amount of effort to avoid double-sided circuit boards. I've never seen so many jumper links, wow! Cost-cutting at its finest. This would be much less of a nightmare to work on if they had used double-sided boards, it would have cut down the size of the boards by about half!
Not only electronics suffer from the plague of hard to service, new vehicles are also a nightmare.
Try working on an electric car. You want to talk about a wiring nightmare. I wouldn't even consider it.
Woow, that unit has lot of screws 🔩 🔩 🔩 🔩
Its really screwed!
@@Ash-do2pv LMAO!!!!
Lead-free solder, cheap underrated parts and a difficult to fix designed assembly. This is a true recipe for failure after a set amount of hours. Dare I posit "planned obsolescence"? Is it any wonder why the military and the hospitals insist on leaded solder for assembly? They aren't having anything to do with "consumer-grade" equipment these days, that's for sure.
Military equipment is not subject to RoHS regulations in regard to lead content? I didn't know that, interesting...
@@rayhunter7371 Yep, the no-lead alloy adds a degree of instability and they want reliability. It's one less thing to worry about going wrong in a critical operating environment.
Civil aviation LRU's on new planes like the A350 or 787 are held to ROHS, but old designs like the A320 or 767 are not. 😳
Look just fuck what other assholes say your kicking butt your on top at least in my world do your your thing my friend...
You could make instant cofee with 65C :) The placement of the boards and cooling system looks a bit like Onkyo (nowhere near sound) but the PCB's design with all those bridges and cables, almost no SMD components and tracing is terrible, no wonder why its so noisy and looks Chineese cheap. TC9273F is shift register with dual 10 analog switches on outputs and that is why it clicks when no sound ... terrible mute function or crack on joint, if problem on one channel, but if all cuts YES the bulging cap
I repaired these new when still under warranty, horrible and one of the atrocious T series amps that ruined NAD's reputation. Those caps always dried out, the regs fail and also the DSP board. Int problems were also caused by oxidation of the flexible ribbon connectors.. just a mess of an amp.
Yes like most modern stuff, CRAPOLA
You should have cut your voice to the cat for the lolz! Great videos mate!
That's too bad. It gets warm getting to the best part.
I need you to fix my hitachi hma7500 mkII
Shit comment about ebay sellers pal !! …. I bench test and service everything I sell and it wouldn't get listed unless I was 100% sure it was fit for purpose !!!!…. NAD stuff has always been marginal since the 80's and generally made in China since the onset
!!!!
I didn't say all ebay sellers were bad, but many are.
I always tested and serviced my gear before selling and sold off most of my studio stuff after I upgraded to new equipment. All sales went smoothly until I got a fraudulent buyer in 2007 that cost me big time. Never sold another thing.
Either you work more hours for less money or we toss perfectly good, albeit cheap, equipment.
I guess we toss cheap stuff, because I don't work for free. I am not like Uber where they think it is OK to have people working for nothing.
@@12voltvids That's what electronics have come down to. Buy cheap, fix for nothing, if you can even find the parts.
one word nightmare
Fun eh.
i pay for your youtube time as well, can't be a patreon as i'm a carer and on Budget, Thank you, But will pay for this xx
Shouldn't be too hard to "install" a "bottom hatch", with all the modern cutting tools these days! ;-)
I think the idea of companies these days is make units unrepairable or so difficult ppl just toss them and buy new ones. Today, greed > quality and that’s a shame.
I really would have recapped that entire board whilst it was out, it could blow another cap next week.
And that I don't care about. I guarantee the work for only the parts changed. Another one blows up, then it is pay me again.
You used that made in Japan.
HI YOU are right about ebay things not working all the time. if it's on ebay for silly money it's bad
I don't buy things on fleabay. Every thing I have purchased had one thing of another wrong with it. Amazon market is even worse.
I bought an old Heatkit panaplex clock and had to fix it, I also bought a collector calculator with panaplex display and it was totally dead. 2 DAT machines that both had many issues.
My son just bought a vintage Nintendo game console from a seller on Amazon. I won't say what he paid, but it was way too much. Guess what? The controller doesn't work. I don't sell on fleabay either. Got burned by a buyer that claimed what I sold 14 years ago didn't work when it arrived, and caused me a major headache with them because they refused to ship it back.
Whatta friggin nightmare!!!
That receiver is pure garbage. Makes me appreciate my beautiful Carver MXR-130.
Use hot air to remowe this glue
Oh, men! Every time you disassemble anything I think myself I wouldn't let you touch any of my equipment even with a stick from five feet away! You are so rude! Sorry for this but this time it was almost painfull watching it. Nevertheless you make interesting and educational videos so thumbs up.
I agree There is no gentleness in the man.
Ilian Cvetkov its not made of egg shells!
I thought it was handled with just the right amount of gentleness. For a piece of junk, that is.
Using scissors to cut component leads? Yikes!
They are electricians snips and they are very sharp. Cut better than side cutters.
OOOOOOOH, PRC NAD. Boooh! Taiwan only for me .