Here is another idea, check your mast, we get water ingress when it rains via the mast into the bilge. Afterall, there are a lot of openings on a mast. Now as to sanding down your hull, little portable orbital sanders are not the way to do this. I am afraid what you do need is a decent high power vac sander and any decent marina should have these to hire out to people when their boat is on the hard. Alternatively, any plant hire company also should have these, and given the state of your hull, you really need to start off with 40 grit papers to sand it all back. Basically, there are way too many old layers of antifoul on your hull. The entire hull needs to be sanded back to achieve a good base layer. All the osmosis bubbles need to be completely faired back and depending on how deep you go either glassed over or just given a layer of epoxy, then sanded and finally the entire hull will need a layer of primer plus 2-3 coats of antifoul. It’s a long job and don’t cut corners. That means you need to allow the osmosis bubble areas at least a week or two to dry out. Otherwise you will be repeating the process again and again. As it is just working around the osmotic blisters isn’t going to get the job done Chopped strand fibreglass is not what you need to do repairs to your hull, you need in fact the much stronger woven roving matting, plus peel ply which you attach after you have layed up the glass. This prevent bubbles forming in the glass layer and once it’s all cured you simply peel off the peel ply. As to your own health and safety, instead of wearing your hoody etc, put a disposable paint suit on, they are cheap and at the end you just bin it. Wearing your street clothes to do this job isn’t smart. Also, always wear a mask, you started off doing this but then later on didn’t. Antifoul paints etc are copper based and include a range of nasty chemical elements which should not be inhaled. Be smart Terry, and learn from the advice you’re being given. In my view definitely don’t use an angle grinder on your hull as unless you are very careful you will gouge the hull really badly, resulting in way too much work to repair. Good luck.
Good on ya for being so patient. After 20mins of that i would have had the angle grinder out with the most aggressive sanding flapper disc that could be bought.😂
(1) Clear more of the antifouling. Personally, I would remove all the antifouling, it's grim but I would just do it. Get yourself a 3M face mask and one suit overall and nitrile gloves (2) use a grinder and flap wheel to grid out the blisters (3) Put up a skirt of poly around the hull to allow it to dry out. (4) Use Epoxy and woven mat rather than chopped strand. (5) Fairing and smoothing (6) 6 coats of barrier coat..... Yes this is a lot of work, so just crack on...strip, grind and cover now but only glass when the temperature is above 15C to ensure a cure. P.S. If you are using CSM, make sure it's powder bound if you are using epoxy. Some of these items are expensive... ask around. People always overbuy on previous repairs and they have remnants hanging around. I'm not a person commenting from afar... I've had to do this in the last year, so I've been there, I know what it's like for days under that hull. Those blisters are nothing... you have a good hull there. If you use epoxy, what you put back will be stronger than what it replaced.
well said. That is not too big of a hull to clean. I would recommend scraping with a hard metal paint scraping tool. Thats what I did with my 28 footer. Then fix the rotten spots and paint new sealing primers -> no leaks anymore. By spot fixing it will always leak from somewhere
Hey matey, I found here in Australia it is cheaper to buy rolls of sandpaper to fit to your flat sander rather than 'tailer' made paper. Also mate even though it's a pain wear some sort of tyvek coveralls over your clothes (its to stop you contaminating your living spaces and over time your lungs will thank you), I know its a pain but worth it long time. A few comments on using angle grinders but if you do be careful and don't go too rough. Don't know it you know but look up old episodes of "athena" as its really good to look at the progression of boat repairs - keep up the good work mate you will get there eventually :)
Terry, As Im sure you know, the trouble with water ingress, is that the place you actually find it is often not the place where its getting in. when I first bought my boat, every time I went on board, I had to spend the first hour mopping up the water that had collected in a space under the companion way. I could not figure out where it was coming from so i got a hose and ran water over the outside of the boat in sections and checked to see where it was coming from. Turns out it was getting in through poor seals around the Port and Starboard saloon windows. Took both out, cleaned em up and resealed both, boat is dry now.
With the rectangular sander… you can get big rolls of sandpaper and cut to size. To stop sandpaper clogging use a bar of soap and water… sounds mental… but works and makes paper last longer and speeds up work. Also wire brush on grinder is good for rapid removal of large amounts quickly.
Need to get the boat dry inside and out. I would also be tempted to grind out a larger area maybe joining the dots up then fibreglassing using epoxy resin and compatible CSM/cloth and peel ply. Hard to see how bad it is really though. Tough job to do in winter.Good Luck, enjoying the journey👍
Well who would have thought you would see a world first on this channel. A guy who under estimates his tool😂😂. All credit to you Terry, you looked really rough there and you just got stuck in and got it done. Well done mate I tip my hat to you. Hope you feel well soon.
If the hull is wet I would try taping a plastic sheet to the hull to make it airtight but before you tape it shut add some silica gel moisture adsorbant, Cat litter made of bentonite or silica crystals might also work and is also much cheaper.
Good to see you getting stuck in again👍 , you sound more positive at the end of the video than the start , but never mind it will all get done and look miles better as you know it will👍 ,
Hi Terry I spent months trying to find a water leak to the bilges, it turned out to be a cracked 'fresh water' pipe behind a panel, so as I filled the fresh water tank I was in fact filling the bilge!! You can also check by getting some baking color dye (many colors its cheap available from any supermarket ) I used pink, try this in different places and you can check where its coming from, good luck
Angle grinder and flap wheels will make quick work of the holes. Then use the sander to make them smooth concaves. I really think you need to take the anti-foul down to the gelcoat from the top of the keel upto the water line. Even after you repair the holes its going to be wavy with how thick that anti-foul is. Rip it downto the gelcoat. Then do your repairs.
Terry still working on my osmosis problem I have let the blister dry for months. I also sanded the bottom back to gel coat. Check your anchor pipe for water leaking when it rains I have found mine to leak when it rains.
It's a big old job! I think someone said in the comments that you can buy a roll of sand paper which is cheaper, I did but check the width of your big sander. I bought a plate with spikes on to make the air holes but you can make the holes with a drill of the correct size. probably safer holding the drill bit in your hand. I use Makita stuff & bought a rubber connector for the hoover hose which stepped up in size attached with a couple of jubilee clips. Lawson tools are quite helpful. I had water ingress on my Nic 35 coming down the mast track groove but a bit of mastic sorted that. However I believe yours is stepped on deck.Stanchion bases are a great place for water to get in because they are always bent backwards & forwards by so called helpful people taking your ropes. I have often asked people not to fend off a 10 ton boat with the tops of the stanchions!! Good luck with your sanding.
Get yerself an angle grinder, and a pad to use sanding discs lad. Take it easy with it ,and you'll be through it pronto. That sander is fine for small areas, and finishing. But you're using far too many sheets that road. 👍👍.It's like watchin somebody tryin to chop a tree down, with a pair er scissors. 😊
Here's AN IDEA. Heavy duty plastic sheeting from the deck to the ground around the boat would protect you from the elements and give you work on the boat more days
Great job on the I know it can be boring for you but are repairing the boat as for water in your boat check your mast step you have a crack at the bottom on the deck and some of your fittings could be leaking if you can get to them inside check for sign of water trails from the fittings you are not stressed out now Terry well done
Daunting task ahead of you terry ,well done for sticking with it , many a good man would have thrown their cap at it by now to be honest,keep it up the rewards will be worth it im sure ⛵
The temperatures are really going to fight you at this point. Epoxy and paint have tolerances that you may be outside of. Not sure how best to proceed. Maybe get a shit job to pay your yard fee and live in your boat until spring if you can, stack cash, thats my plan for winter. Also i hope you will do a whole barrier coat after fill blisters and fairing proper before bottom paint. Its more work than you expected but don't do a half-assed job or your ass will be out when you don't want it to be. Keep going, head up, but maybe bite down and work for money this winter.
You’re doing a fantastic job Terry keep it up! The yacht will be awesome when you’re done because you did it!! I agree with other comments i would use a grinder with a flappy disk
Don't sand all at once else you have to fill all at once and wait for cure. Do half, clean and fill then continue sanding other half whilst first half cures. Then you can continue on without waiting for cure time. It also changes pace from purely pain in arse sanding.
Fannying around with wee sanders ain’t going to cut it, you need a carbide scraper and lots of patience to scrape that hull back to gelcoat it’s the only proper way to fix that hull wee patches here and there ain’t no good.
Heres an idear. Just fill with epoxy and repair the biggy. Sod the moisture meter your be waiting till next summer. then sand and give it a covering of epoxy resin. then antifoul and ready. All old boats leak. mine is no exception. your find them over time. stick with the plan. clean the bilge. get the engine back in.
Since you have plenty good advices in the comments section 😉 I just hope you take notice and do complete good job once and for all 💪or either risk to redoing it all over again in very near future😳 OR Having to deal and live with leaks everyday🙉 you won't even be able to leave your boat for long periods without risking it sinking. Remember you need her to keep you afloat during your adventures.
Mate 3 things you need to know 1) you keep saying waiting for chopped strand mat PLEASE DONT use chop mat with epoxy the binder used to hold it together won’t dissolve with epoxy , traditional chop strand is only designed to work with polyester resin, the only time any form of chop strand mat can be used with epoxy is if it’s what’s known as combi mat this is chop strand that’s been stiched to biaxial cloth this way there is no binder and it will work properly , 2) your prep needs to be better than you currently have , you need a angle grinder you can get one for less than £30 and get 40grit discs and quickly blast over all the holes again, that sander isn’t going to give you enough of rough surface for your epoxy to stick to , 3)don’t do any epoxy works outside in less than 10 dec Celsius as it won’t cure properly
Powder bound csm is designed for use with epoxy. Personally I would use woven as the end strands of CSM capillary the moisture into the glass that can drive osmosis.
you need to let the hull dry out before you start filling them in , all your water in the boat might be coming out of the hull, that hull has got osmosis bad, get a moisture meter and listen to expert mate, angle grinder and a 36grit disc.
Looking good Terry Hope your feeling a bit better today As I'm sure you know flu/cold in men is worse than child birth for women 😁 (I may have put myself on a hit list for that comment lol) Like someone else has said water can be a bugger to trace it could be getting in well away from where your finding it. Your patience will win in the end mate. Keep warm and plenty of fluids,👍
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Here is another idea, check your mast, we get water ingress when it rains via the mast into the bilge. Afterall, there are a lot of openings on a mast.
Now as to sanding down your hull, little portable orbital sanders are not the way to do this. I am afraid what you do need is a decent high power vac sander and any decent marina should have these to hire out to people when their boat is on the hard.
Alternatively, any plant hire company also should have these, and given the state of your hull, you really need to start off with 40 grit papers to sand it all back. Basically, there are way too many old layers of antifoul on your hull.
The entire hull needs to be sanded back to achieve a good base layer. All the osmosis bubbles need to be completely faired back and depending on how deep you go either glassed over or just given a layer of epoxy, then sanded and finally the entire hull will need a layer of primer plus 2-3 coats of antifoul. It’s a long job and don’t cut corners. That means you need to allow the osmosis bubble areas at least a week or two to dry out. Otherwise you will be repeating the process again and again.
As it is just working around the osmotic blisters isn’t going to get the job done
Chopped strand fibreglass is not what you need to do repairs to your hull, you need in fact the much stronger woven roving matting, plus peel ply which you attach after you have layed up the glass. This prevent bubbles forming in the glass layer and once it’s all cured you simply peel off the peel ply.
As to your own health and safety, instead of wearing your hoody etc, put a disposable paint suit on, they are cheap and at the end you just bin it. Wearing your street clothes to do this job isn’t smart. Also, always wear a mask, you started off doing this but then later on didn’t. Antifoul paints etc are copper based and include a range of nasty chemical elements which should not be inhaled. Be smart Terry, and learn from the advice you’re being given.
In my view definitely don’t use an angle grinder on your hull as unless you are very careful you will gouge the hull really badly, resulting in way too much work to repair. Good luck.
Good on ya for being so patient. After 20mins of that i would have had the angle grinder out with the most aggressive sanding flapper disc that could be bought.😂
Well that would be another thing going shopping with Terry, he’s probably pass out before parting with the cash for the flapper disks!😂
(1) Clear more of the antifouling. Personally, I would remove all the antifouling, it's grim but I would just do it. Get yourself a 3M face mask and one suit overall and nitrile gloves (2) use a grinder and flap wheel to grid out the blisters (3) Put up a skirt of poly around the hull to allow it to dry out. (4) Use Epoxy and woven mat rather than chopped strand. (5) Fairing and smoothing (6) 6 coats of barrier coat.....
Yes this is a lot of work, so just crack on...strip, grind and cover now but only glass when the temperature is above 15C to ensure a cure.
P.S. If you are using CSM, make sure it's powder bound if you are using epoxy.
Some of these items are expensive... ask around. People always overbuy on previous repairs and they have remnants hanging around.
I'm not a person commenting from afar... I've had to do this in the last year, so I've been there, I know what it's like for days under that hull. Those blisters are nothing... you have a good hull there. If you use epoxy, what you put back will be stronger than what it replaced.
well said. That is not too big of a hull to clean. I would recommend scraping with a hard metal paint scraping tool. Thats what I did with my 28 footer. Then fix the rotten spots and paint new sealing primers -> no leaks anymore. By spot fixing it will always leak from somewhere
Hey matey, I found here in Australia it is cheaper to buy rolls of sandpaper to fit to your flat sander rather than 'tailer' made paper. Also mate even though it's a pain wear some sort of tyvek coveralls over your clothes (its to stop you contaminating your living spaces and over time your lungs will thank you), I know its a pain but worth it long time. A few comments on using angle grinders but if you do be careful and don't go too rough. Don't know it you know but look up old episodes of "athena" as its really good to look at the progression of boat repairs - keep up the good work mate you will get there eventually :)
i love the longer episodes keep them coming, and I love a bit of sanding
Secondedededed
Make sure you take care of yourself. Good luck with the hull being dry enough, and having tbe weather to do the work.
Terry, As Im sure you know, the trouble with water ingress, is that the place you actually find it is often not the place where its getting in. when I first bought my boat, every time I went on board, I had to spend the first hour mopping up the water that had collected in a space under the companion way. I could not figure out where it was coming from so i got a hose and ran water over the outside of the boat in sections and checked to see where it was coming from. Turns out it was getting in through poor seals around the Port and Starboard saloon windows. Took both out, cleaned em up and resealed both, boat is dry now.
Get a angle grinder on it but take it easy 🤫
With the rectangular sander… you can get big rolls of sandpaper and cut to size.
To stop sandpaper clogging use a bar of soap and water… sounds mental… but works and makes paper last longer and speeds up work.
Also wire brush on grinder is good for rapid removal of large amounts quickly.
Get well soon Terry 🤒
Need to get the boat dry inside and out. I would also be tempted to grind out a larger area maybe joining the dots up then fibreglassing using epoxy resin and compatible CSM/cloth and peel ply. Hard to see how bad it is really though. Tough job to do in winter.Good Luck, enjoying the journey👍
Cannot really do in winter. Epoxy needs 45*F to cure at minimum? I have many projects I have to wait on spring to do...
Well who would have thought you would see a world first on this channel. A guy who under estimates his tool😂😂. All credit to you Terry, you looked really rough there and you just got stuck in and got it done. Well done mate I tip my hat to you. Hope you feel well soon.
Thank you!
If the hull is wet I would try taping a plastic sheet to the hull to make it airtight but before you tape it shut add some silica gel moisture adsorbant, Cat litter made of bentonite or silica crystals might also work and is also much cheaper.
Good to see you getting stuck in again👍 , you sound more positive at the end of the video than the start , but never mind it will all get done and look miles better as you know it will👍 ,
Hi Terry I spent months trying to find a water leak to the bilges, it turned out to be a cracked 'fresh water' pipe behind a panel, so as I filled the fresh water tank I was in fact filling the bilge!! You can also check by getting some baking color dye (many colors its cheap available from any supermarket ) I used pink, try this in different places and you can check where its coming from, good luck
You could drape some tarp over each side to keep the rain off and maybe put a small diesel heater under the boat to dry everything out.
Angle grinder and flap wheels will make quick work of the holes. Then use the sander to make them smooth concaves. I really think you need to take the anti-foul down to the gelcoat from the top of the keel upto the water line. Even after you repair the holes its going to be wavy with how thick that anti-foul is. Rip it downto the gelcoat. Then do your repairs.
Terry still working on my osmosis problem I have let the blister dry for months. I also sanded the bottom back to gel coat. Check your anchor pipe for water leaking when it rains I have found mine to leak when it rains.
It's a big old job! I think someone said in the comments that you can buy a roll of sand paper which is cheaper, I did but check the width of your big sander. I bought a plate with spikes on to make the air holes but you can make the holes with a drill of the correct size. probably safer holding the drill bit in your hand. I use Makita stuff & bought a rubber connector for the hoover hose which stepped up in size attached with a couple of jubilee clips. Lawson tools are quite helpful.
I had water ingress on my Nic 35 coming down the mast track groove but a bit of mastic sorted that. However I believe yours is stepped on deck.Stanchion bases are a great place for water to get in because they are always bent backwards & forwards by so called helpful people taking your ropes. I have often asked people not to fend off a 10 ton boat with the tops of the stanchions!! Good luck with your sanding.
Angle grinder grinding discs. Also get a sealed da sander which uses sticky discs or. Velcro. You will thank me. Enjoying the videos keep at it. Chris
Sealey sander
Get yerself an angle grinder, and a pad to use sanding discs lad. Take it easy with it ,and you'll be through it pronto. That sander is fine for small areas, and finishing. But you're using far too many sheets that road. 👍👍.It's like watchin somebody tryin to chop a tree down, with a pair er scissors. 😊
Here's AN IDEA. Heavy duty plastic sheeting from the deck to the ground around the boat would protect you from the elements and give you work on the boat more days
Do this....build a skirt. You can buy heavy duty plastic used for polytunnels.
Great job on the I know it can be boring for you but are repairing the boat as for water in your boat check your mast step you have a crack at the bottom on the deck and some of your fittings could be leaking if you can get to them inside check for sign of water trails from the fittings you are not stressed out now Terry well done
Tricky with the mast up.
Daunting task ahead of you terry ,well done for sticking with it , many a good man would have thrown their cap at it by now to be honest,keep it up the rewards will be worth it im sure ⛵
The temperatures are really going to fight you at this point. Epoxy and paint have tolerances that you may be outside of. Not sure how best to proceed. Maybe get a shit job to pay your yard fee and live in your boat until spring if you can, stack cash, thats my plan for winter. Also i hope you will do a whole barrier coat after fill blisters and fairing proper before bottom paint. Its more work than you expected but don't do a half-assed job or your ass will be out when you don't want it to be. Keep going, head up, but maybe bite down and work for money this winter.
You’re doing a fantastic job Terry keep it up! The yacht will be awesome when you’re done because you did it!! I agree with other comments i would use a grinder with a flappy disk
Don't sand all at once else you have to fill all at once and wait for cure. Do half, clean and fill then continue sanding other half whilst first half cures. Then you can continue on without waiting for cure time. It also changes pace from purely pain in arse sanding.
I'd be using grinder with flap sanding disk would take about 10% of the time
This is the noisiest video I’ve ever watched 😂
Best bit is putting on hempel underwater primer it's quality stuff
Long live "Fin"
Loads love dude.. get better soon
Grinder and flap wheel you’ll be done in 100th of the time just go easy as they shift material fast.
Fannying around with wee sanders ain’t going to cut it, you need a carbide scraper and lots of patience to scrape that hull back to gelcoat it’s the only proper way to fix that hull wee patches here and there ain’t no good.
Hi mate, could the water in the bilge be from condensation? Im having a similar problem and am looking to set up a dehumidifier.
Heres an idear. Just fill with epoxy and repair the biggy. Sod the moisture meter your be waiting till next summer. then sand and give it a covering of epoxy resin. then antifoul and ready. All old boats leak. mine is no exception. your find them over time.
stick with the plan. clean the bilge. get the engine back in.
An angle grinder with some 40 grit flap discs will get it done in no time
you need to look up
500 ROTTEN, FESTERING Blisters
patrick did over 500 on his boat
he will show you how to do this
rip patrick
Need a sanding party
Since you have plenty good advices in the comments section 😉
I just hope you take notice and do complete good job once and for all 💪or either risk to redoing it all over again in very near future😳 OR
Having to deal and live with leaks everyday🙉 you won't even be able to leave your boat for long periods without risking it sinking. Remember you need her to keep you afloat during your adventures.
Sell it…..again. 😂
Use gaffer to attach to deck and wait it down with wood so you have assess to the boat. Put a shout out to see if you can get cheap OR FREE
Mate 3 things you need to know
1) you keep saying waiting for chopped strand mat PLEASE DONT use chop mat with epoxy the binder used to hold it together won’t dissolve with epoxy , traditional chop strand is only designed to work with polyester resin, the only time any form of chop strand mat can be used with epoxy is if it’s what’s known as combi mat this is chop strand that’s been stiched to biaxial cloth this way there is no binder and it will work properly ,
2) your prep needs to be better than you currently have , you need a angle grinder you can get one for less than £30 and get 40grit discs and quickly blast over all the holes again, that sander isn’t going to give you enough of rough surface for your epoxy to stick to ,
3)don’t do any epoxy works outside in less than 10 dec Celsius as it won’t cure properly
Powder bound csm is designed for use with epoxy. Personally I would use woven as the end strands of CSM capillary the moisture into the glass that can drive osmosis.
Don't use the word osmosis. Say big gelcoat breakouts just sounds better
They say you should wash them out with soapy water
you need to let the hull dry out before you start filling them in , all your water in the boat might be coming out of the hull, that hull has got osmosis bad, get a moisture meter and listen to expert mate, angle grinder and a 36grit disc.
Nice intro 👍
Looking good Terry
Hope your feeling a bit better today
As I'm sure you know flu/cold in men is worse than child birth for women 😁 (I may have put myself on a hit list for that comment lol)
Like someone else has said water can be a bugger to trace it could be getting in well away from where your finding it.
Your patience will win in the end mate.
Keep warm and plenty of fluids,👍
👌
da da da 40 grit
12 m X 3 m I think
It's a written law you can't sit down on the job
dual action sander 40 grit og 80 or you will ne doing hat sanding for ever.