I plug mine completely off with solid plastic rod, somewhere around 3/16" diameter, or maybe 1/4" on the newer Bachmann ones, file that bolster flat, then I use a hole punch on the lid of a Kadee #5 box, punching out that coupler bushing/post, and using that for the new bolster. Once the glue dries, I drill and tap the center hole for 2-56 x 1/4" screws.
Oh, and for coupler heights, I use the Kadee 20 series adapter, and glue that in place, and then I use a regular Kadee box right on top of it, and that gives me my coupler height, without having to mess around with shims, etc. Yes, I like the snap together Kadee boxes as well.
I like the plastic rod technique which I've done with brass rod and the tiny lathe to make the hole for tapping. I'll have to get a bundle of the plastic rod for rebuilding a stack of 40 foot hi-cubes!
As much trouble as people are giving you for this, saying to just stick plastic in there... this is a reversible and if you ever decide to get rid of the cars, can be returned back to stock and salvage your parts back off of it. I like it
I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout. Yeah, I have a section of track (about 1 ft. or 14 in.) on top of roadbed with a Kadee coupler height tool mounted on it so I can check coupler height on all my rolling stock & engines. Did you know that the back of the height tool can be used to see if your car body is at the right height? You have to check the body height with no coupler in place or it will hit the back of the tool. I just found about this the other day. If the car body will just slip over the end it is at the correct height. Then all ya gotta do is add a coupler & draft box. Instead of using the Kadee magnets, neodymium (rare earth) magnets can be used much more reliably. Since I'm a DC only guy I changed out all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets (neodymium) and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now my old Mantua Pacific's will "creep" around the tracks. I also changed all couplers to body mounted Kadee couplers and changed out all plastic wheels with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. Cost a good chunk of $$ to do nearly 100 pieces of rolling stock. Another trick I learned is after mounting the coupler draft box and Kadee coupler, put an itsy bit of super glue next to one side of the draft box and chassis and a little itsy drop of super glue on part of the screw and draft box. That will ensure that the draft box will not move nor will the screw move. Another trick is if you glue two pieces of plastic together, make sure you use an X-acto knife (I use A-proxo knife) and scribe hash marks on both pieces to ensure a good bond. I try to never glue on draft boxes and use my Kadee drill and tap for a 256 screw. I've even drilled through the metal weights to add a screw to the draft box. Guarantee they will never come off. I've also had a some screws come through (like on a flat car) and used the Dremel to cut off the protruding screw and then paint it black or same color of the body. Cheers from eastern TN
I just glue in some plastic round stock into the large holes then use the kadee tap to thread it and the screws go right in a stay forever ;) This works well too!
we're doing more of these this week - a bunch of old freight cars that most people pass on when they see them at train shows and not repainting them - enhancing them!
To mount couplers, remove the floor from the car, shim with plastic (bread bag ties work fine) glue the coupler box to the floor, and drill and tap for a plastic KD screw. the plastic screw is strong enough to gold the coupler in place and can be trimmed before re installing the floor in the car. UI add weight using birdshot between frame rails in the car with white glue. Afte dry, a Sharpie permanent marker colors the dry glue.
I like to avoid gluing coupler boxes as much as possible, but when you've got a flatcar glue is probably the best choice - especially if you have the new snap on cover draft gear!
For just a few dollars more, you could easily replace those plastic wheel sets with metal and the horn-hook couples with Kadees. I have done it to a lot of my rolling stock and glad I did. everything runs so much smoother.
what I've been doing is coating the outside of just the wheels with non-conductive graphite spray and then polishing them with a plastic brush with a moto-tool. those wheels have and excellent look after that. metal wheels are way outside my budget - I keep them when I find them, but I only use them on cars in rare circumstances because of the price!
I use a very similar method for upgrading the trucks. My biggest obstacle is finding freight trucks in lots to upgrade the many repair projects that I have.
they used to be easy to get at train shows, but now I get the 10 pack from Tichy sometimes with wheels and sometimes without when I have a bunch of spare wheelsets. They're under 15 for 10 pair - at least for the moment!
I bought a box of Tichy Andrews and a box of Tichy Bettendorf trucks to replace all the deep flange trucks on my cars from the 50's and 60's. They also get Kadee couplers. Now I can run my Varney cars with my Kadee cars. 98% of the people that see my railroad aren't going to know the difference anyway.
I love Tichy trucks. Those ancient cars can be just as good as newer stuff with just a little bit of attention - plus they have sentimental value the new stuff jas yet to earn!
I found it easier to set the KDs with the trucks still off in order to get them centered right and your couples should stick out a fraction or two Ensure distance between the cars going around curves and through switches especially in reverse...
That is generally how I try to do it. Recently I've run into some cars that were unusually difficult to replace both trucks and couplers. If I can get some more of those at the train show I'll show them!
I think I'd rather use a bit of Plastruct tube from the local craft store rather than silicon tubing. It can be glued in place with plastic cement and it will become part of the underframe structure.
@@elite194 Wheel? No, I was talking about the material used to fill the old hole in the bolster. You used silicone tubing, but IDK where to find that easily. But I do know stores in the area like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc carry Plastruct shapes and strips for hobby and craft projects. A 12 inch length of Plastruct tube would last me a lifetime. For trucks and wheels I have lots of old Athearn and MDC stuff around.
@@whiteknightcat I meant the plastruct carousel that had all the pipes, beams and other types. the one thing I don't like about using the plastic pipe for wheel replacement is the time it takes. I tend to do big batches all at once - but it doesn't work at all on wobbly pintles!
always use number 2 screws! you can get them any length and head style that you need. I prefer Orchid Sound on ebay because they send them in bags with labels so you don't have to remember or measure to find out what you got! get several lengths, your flatcars might seem to need very short, but if you have to add washers, it's good to have the next longer screw. also get a 2-56 tap so you can thread holes for your screws!
I have been trying for weeks to find tubing to fit into these holes!!! Where can I purchase these items, if you can let me know, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Tom Ryan.
The problem with plastic wheels is that crud accumulates on the wheels and you spread it all around the track. Real railroads don't have plastic wheels. I'd rather use a wheel gauge and keep on using my Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. For changing trucks, fill the hole with a piece of sprue left over from a building kit and cement it in place. Trim it and drill & tap it for a 256 screw. That's how I change those awful trucks with the push in pins or the split do-hickies that hold the trucks on. So you're not one of those modelers that cuts off all the molded on extras and opts to put on real ones like ladders and grab irons? That's too much detail for my layout. Cheers - TN
I've got some metal wheels, but coating my wheels with graphite and then polishing them has made purchasing lots of wheels unnecessary. I like metal wheels, but they're also really loud!
email me a list and I'll see if I can identify them - since they come from cars I've gotten out of bargain bins, most are missing a wheelset, but I might be able to assemble a few!
I plug mine completely off with solid plastic rod, somewhere around 3/16" diameter, or maybe 1/4" on the newer Bachmann ones, file that bolster flat, then I use a hole punch on the lid of a Kadee #5 box, punching out that coupler bushing/post, and using that for the new bolster. Once the glue dries, I drill and tap the center hole for 2-56 x 1/4" screws.
Oh, and for coupler heights, I use the Kadee 20 series adapter, and glue that in place, and then I use a regular Kadee box right on top of it, and that gives me my coupler height, without having to mess around with shims, etc. Yes, I like the snap together Kadee boxes as well.
I like the plastic rod technique which I've done with brass rod and the tiny lathe to make the hole for tapping. I'll have to get a bundle of the plastic rod for rebuilding a stack of 40 foot hi-cubes!
that new snap together draft gear is a big time saver over the number 5 box when doing locomotives!
As much trouble as people are giving you for this, saying to just stick plastic in there... this is a reversible and if you ever decide to get rid of the cars, can be returned back to stock and salvage your parts back off of it. I like it
in general that is true... I use the silicone to save time because when I do this, I do many at one time and it's just so easy!
I model the Central of Georgia railroad since I used to live in Jonesboro, GA. I bought a couple of Atlas GP-7s from another modeler in the Central of Georgia livery and he had never run them. When I got them they looked brand new and absolutely no wheel wear. I got them for $75.00 each. I've never paid more than $120.00 for an engine. I started collecting HO gauge back in the middle 80's but never really thought about modeling any certain railroad. Now things have changed and I'm getting an Atlas RS-3 in the Central of Georgia livery for Christmas along with a Kadee boxcar in the CofG livery. I also just got my very first brass diesel, a Fairbanks-Morse H-12-44 in the CofG livery. Back in the 80's I mostly bought Athearn engines and I hope the Atlas engines will perform as well as the Athearn ones as they are quite robust and keep on rolling. I recently started collecting Lionel 027 as I got the very same Lionel train set I had when I was a kid from my cousin. My train set got left behind in the attic when we moved from Hephzibah, GA. I couldn't believe my cousin had the exact same one and I sure was happy to get that set. I've now collected enough to make a 027 layout with 4 steam engines and 1 Texas Special diesel F-3. I think I have a couple dozen rolling stock to go with what I have. Oh yeah, I'm a DC guy only as I hate the sound of HO gauge DCC. I will probably end up weathering my brand new engines. I just don't like seeing pristine engines/rolling stock on the layout.
Yeah, I have a section of track (about 1 ft. or 14 in.) on top of roadbed with a Kadee coupler height tool mounted on it so I can check coupler height on all my rolling stock & engines. Did you know that the back of the height tool can be used to see if your car body is at the right height? You have to check the body height with no coupler in place or it will hit the back of the tool. I just found about this the other day. If the car body will just slip over the end it is at the correct height. Then all ya gotta do is add a coupler & draft box. Instead of using the Kadee magnets, neodymium (rare earth) magnets can be used much more reliably. Since I'm a DC only guy I changed out all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets (neodymium) and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now my old Mantua Pacific's will "creep" around the tracks. I also changed all couplers to body mounted Kadee couplers and changed out all plastic wheels with Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. Cost a good chunk of $$ to do nearly 100 pieces of rolling stock. Another trick I learned is after mounting the coupler draft box and Kadee coupler, put an itsy bit of super glue next to one side of the draft box and chassis and a little itsy drop of super glue on part of the screw and draft box. That will ensure that the draft box will not move nor will the screw move. Another trick is if you glue two pieces of plastic together, make sure you use an X-acto knife (I use A-proxo knife) and scribe hash marks on both pieces to ensure a good bond. I try to never glue on draft boxes and use my Kadee drill and tap for a 256 screw. I've even drilled through the metal weights to add a screw to the draft box. Guarantee they will never come off. I've also had a some screws come through (like on a flat car) and used the Dremel to cut off the protruding screw and then paint it black or same color of the body. Cheers from eastern TN
we use GOOP now to do that. you can change your mind later and GOOP will allow you to do non-destructive modeling!
Isn't that rail line the one that had a mixed train with a coach until 1982?
I just glue in some plastic round stock into the large holes then use the kadee tap to thread it and the screws go right in a stay forever ;) This works well too!
yes for sure! I also use that method frequently and it totally works!
Awesome video I always appreciate when people post informative videos like this well done
we're doing more of these this week - a bunch of old freight cars that most people pass on when they see them at train shows and not repainting them - enhancing them!
To mount couplers, remove the floor from the car, shim with plastic (bread bag ties work fine) glue the coupler box to the floor, and drill and tap for a plastic KD screw. the plastic screw is strong enough to gold the coupler in place and can be trimmed before re installing the floor in the car. UI add weight using birdshot between frame rails in the car with white glue. Afte dry, a Sharpie permanent marker colors the dry glue.
I like to avoid gluing coupler boxes as much as possible, but when you've got a flatcar glue is probably the best choice - especially if you have the new snap on cover draft gear!
For just a few dollars more, you could easily replace those plastic wheel sets with metal and the horn-hook couples with Kadees. I have done it to a lot of my rolling stock and glad I did. everything runs so much smoother.
what I've been doing is coating the outside of just the wheels with non-conductive graphite spray and then polishing them with a plastic brush with a moto-tool. those wheels have and excellent look after that. metal wheels are way outside my budget - I keep them when I find them, but I only use them on cars in rare circumstances because of the price!
I use a very similar method for upgrading the trucks. My biggest obstacle is finding freight trucks in lots to upgrade the many repair projects that I have.
they used to be easy to get at train shows, but now I get the 10 pack from Tichy sometimes with wheels and sometimes without when I have a bunch of spare wheelsets. They're under 15 for 10 pair - at least for the moment!
I bought a box of Tichy Andrews and a box of Tichy Bettendorf trucks to replace all the deep flange trucks on my cars from the 50's and 60's. They also get Kadee couplers. Now I can run my Varney cars with my Kadee cars. 98% of the people that see my railroad aren't going to know the difference anyway.
I love Tichy trucks. Those ancient cars can be just as good as newer stuff with just a little bit of attention - plus they have sentimental value the new stuff jas yet to earn!
I found it easier to set the KDs with the trucks still off in order to get them centered right and your couples should stick out a fraction or two Ensure distance between the cars going around curves and through switches especially in reverse...
That is generally how I try to do it. Recently I've run into some cars that were unusually difficult to replace both trucks and couplers. If I can get some more of those at the train show I'll show them!
This is quite an awesome video!
I have alot of horn hook based freight cars and i can hopefully thanks to this video make better use of them.
this technique is so much easier than all the old ways I ever tried - I should do a follow up on mounting new couplers using the methods I use now!
Do you have links on where to get the stuff normally unrelated to model railroading? Such as the silicone hose and goop products?
Amazing GOOP from Ace Hardware, silicon hose from Amazon, Oxgard from Lowe's and MAG-1 grease from Autozone
I think I'd rather use a bit of Plastruct tube from the local craft store rather than silicon tubing. It can be glued in place with plastic cement and it will become part of the underframe structure.
it's getting harder to find and farther away these days. the benefit of the tube is $8 will be a lifetime supply of the silicone hose!
@@elite194 Plastruct is harder to find? Interesting. Was going to go out and get some today for another project.
@@whiteknightcat if you have a store that has that wheel of all different kinds of beams and channels, you're very lucky!
@@elite194 Wheel? No, I was talking about the material used to fill the old hole in the bolster. You used silicone tubing, but IDK where to find that easily. But I do know stores in the area like Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc carry Plastruct shapes and strips for hobby and craft projects. A 12 inch length of Plastruct tube would last me a lifetime.
For trucks and wheels I have lots of old Athearn and MDC stuff around.
@@whiteknightcat I meant the plastruct carousel that had all the pipes, beams and other types. the one thing I don't like about using the plastic pipe for wheel replacement is the time it takes. I tend to do big batches all at once - but it doesn't work at all on wobbly pintles!
Nice video. 👍
thank you! there will be some more on freight car tricks coming up pretty quick
@@elite194 Alright! Said with enthusiasm. 👍
Hi nice trick I just 3D printed some flat cars I have a hole already made what size screw did you use?
always use number 2 screws! you can get them any length and head style that you need. I prefer Orchid Sound on ebay because they send them in bags with labels so you don't have to remember or measure to find out what you got! get several lengths, your flatcars might seem to need very short, but if you have to add washers, it's good to have the next longer screw. also get a 2-56 tap so you can thread holes for your screws!
Good way to do flat cars, like the tube, great idea 💡 , can you get the tube from a R C shop?, see ya on your next update.👋😎🛤🚂
I got it on amazon and have gotten some on ebay, I don't know about the RC store. It's called food grade hose.
I have been trying for weeks to find tubing to fit into these holes!!! Where can I purchase these items, if you can let me know, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Tom Ryan.
you're looking for food grade silicone hose 1x4mm. currently the best source is ebay since a roll is about 9 bucks and will last decades!
where can I get the tube from thanks
ebay is the best place, under 10 bucks for a lifetime supply and its called 1x4mm food grade silicone hose
The problem with plastic wheels is that crud accumulates on the wheels and you spread it all around the track. Real railroads don't have plastic wheels. I'd rather use a wheel gauge and keep on using my Walthers Proto 2000 metal wheel sets. For changing trucks, fill the hole with a piece of sprue left over from a building kit and cement it in place. Trim it and drill & tap it for a 256 screw. That's how I change those awful trucks with the push in pins or the split do-hickies that hold the trucks on. So you're not one of those modelers that cuts off all the molded on extras and opts to put on real ones like ladders and grab irons? That's too much detail for my layout. Cheers - TN
so we fixed that problem a while back by using the ZEP graphite spray. no problems since we did that!
Is it 1mm ID and 3 mm OD or 1mm 4mm
1x4mm
@@elite194 thank you
@@elite194 by chance do you have a link to what you bought. I can't find 1×4 I can find 2×4 1×3
superiorsell2014 on ebay - but it's in a drop down selection box on the page for food grade silicone hose
@@elite194 thank you
Should use metal wheels of you are going throufh changing the truckd out will roll faster and smoother
I've got some metal wheels, but coating my wheels with graphite and then polishing them has made purchasing lots of wheels unnecessary. I like metal wheels, but they're also really loud!
would you like to sell me the old trucks....i have a few broken and cannot find them anywhere......thanks
email me a list and I'll see if I can identify them - since they come from cars I've gotten out of bargain bins, most are missing a wheelset, but I might be able to assemble a few!
Cox military set
I saw a set identical but brand new at the National Train Show - I forget who it was that brought it back, but it's back!
Fill the hile and drill it
I've had poor luck doing that in the past, but I haven't tried using the JB Weld Plastic bonder and that would be a good experiment!
Steven, when are you coming home??? Your mother misses you!
Today!!
Use a pin vise screw a tiny hole down and screw the couplers boxes in place
When I have to secure them Goop is my go-to stuff since it's non-destructive and can be easily removed!