I just watched PiXimperfect's video you're referencing before coming here by chance. The way you've described the usefulness of the linear light method on a 50% gray layer makes SO much sense, especially since it's possible to increase its fill, saving a ton of brushing time. Instant fan and subscriber! You've definitely helped cut my workflow time by a considerable amount with this suggestion! Can't thank you enough!
I was using Delicious Retouch Dodge and Burn retouch panel and came across my 50% gray method. I barely understood dogde and burn and now this! Thank you very much! It makes a lot of sense for an optimized workflow.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Francisco Mohamed Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi Blake. I know you didn’t “want” to do this video but I am so very pleased you did do it. You did an excellent job and my understanding has been greatly improved. You showed absolute class in not letting this become personal. Both you guys have excellent Photoshop content and in the end I don’t think there was even a substantive disagreement. It was about different approaches for different people. It is really is just such a shame about the title of the other video. We can thank the almighty RUclips algorithm for that. Keep up the great work!
Blake, you nailed it! I like very much 'the other guy' and I just watched the video you (elegantly) mentioned. But in this matter, your method gave me the result I was looking for, for the longest time. I used to hate when I saw that gray over my colors when burning. With these settings you taught, I got exactly what I was looking for when using D&B tools! No gray color over my beautiful colors, very natural highlights, and very, very, natural overall result as a whole, fast and with no effort! Thank you so much and all the best to you :)
I like this method, it works for me ;) Everyone had their preference, and I completely accept that :) I just like that my brush stays the same at all times with no color cast.
@@f64Academy Yes, no color cast! Only the color itself accentuated to light or dark - nothing more. Couldn't be more perfect! Thanks again and have a nice and creative day :)
Funny, before even clicking on your video (as I was watching Unmesh's vid) I wrote a comment, why would you use the brush on the grey layer? just use the dodge and burn tools and you don't have to adjust the brush to 50% gray to erase anything. Glad someone with a youtube channel is bringing this to everyone's attention.
I really like the 50% gray method. I was dodging/burning with the curves layer method and although I eventually achieved what I wanted it was cumbersome. I understand how your method works and dodging/burning is now efficient and fun. Thank You!!!
I always use 2 curves adjustment layer. First one goes up, second one down. Both with black masks and then I can mask in my Dodge and Burn completely separated. Maybe this is a bit too complicated, but you can create all of this in a macro and start brushing right away. And with that method I can adjust flow, opacity AND the curve itself and each setting for Dodge and Burn separately.
Yep, I have used it before. My only complaint with that method is having to bounce back and forth between each mask. I really like the speed and efficiency of one layer. But it is up to the individual which method is best for them and their workflow.
Thanks for this. I've had so many arguments with friends about this (gosh what nerds we are). And we all know who you are talking about (and he's a great guy). Whatever works great, works great!
For sure! No ill will, I just have to make this video for clarification purposes as the ripple effect of it has been very difficult on my end every time I use this method.
@@f64Academy Hang in there. You're one of the best PS teachers on RUclips. I should probably start sending you royalty checks from the overflow of client happiness I've been getting. Have a wonderful and blessed Christmas.
Oh hum... Tweedledum & Tweedledee. I've been using your Gray Layer/Dodge/Method since you introduced it... No Problem Whatsoever. The color stays exactly where I want it every time. Thanks for making this video, Blake. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
I do a lot of dodging and burning in Lr because I just couldn't get it to work in Ps using the dodge and burn tools. Now I know why. I'm going gray layer from now on. Great video. Thanks and have a wonderful holiday!
Hi Blake... I have been following your videos for sometime now and i find it very informative.. i simply dont understand why you have so less subscribers when your teaching methods are outstanding... Anyways please do keep doing whatever you been doing and I am definitely looking out for it. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you.
Hi Blake: Thank your for calling out this obvious 'click-bait' video by the RUclips creator that you have mentioned. I know who you mean, and I must say that I no longer watch or pay any attention to this person. I have always like and appreciate your candid and UN-baised approach to PS. I follow the method you have outlined and find it works the best for my post-processing workflow, and it makes the most sense as it doesn't create UN-necessary down-stream issues. Keep fighting the good battle! Best wishes to you and your family this holiday season. Cheers, Keith
Very good points 😁 I agree with some of his points, but only for the technique he presented. Much like politics, lol, it's easy to get on board with something when they only give you one board to get on 😁
I've always used 50% gray layer with black and white pincel, especially when working with luminosity masks. I've never thought of using dodge and burn tools, which makes more sense btw. I never knew what the 50% gray layer was for, but now I know. I prefer using the 50% gray because it lets you clearly visualize what you did by only looking at that layer. Great explanation. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
So well explained, thanks for this. For my workflow (and something I recommend) I use mainly 2 brushes, a hard one at 100%fill, hardness at 100% too and shape dynamics with pen pressure, and a really soft one at 1-2% fill hardness at 1%, switching between them with just a right click on my pen on the wacom.
Totally agreed. As you said,there is a place in your workflow. Julia Kuzmenko (hope i write it correctly) and some other retouchers use the 50% gray on overlay or soft light to contour the images.
I learned to dodge and burn with the 50% gray layer, but utilizing the brush at a low opacity. I will definitely try the linear light method using the dodge and burn tools. Thanks, Blake - and Happy Holidays!
Blake, between the 50% gray layer and the two separate curves layer method, which do you prefer? I've read somewhere that the curves method is significantly quicker. What are your thoughts?
Hi Blake........,I've learned a lot from you. You elaborated super hard things so easily mannnn thatz amazing....THANK YOU VERY MUCH... , dont need bother about those pix 'IMPERFECT' ones, who even photoshop their voice and accent ;) ........... and yaa.........I hate his 'EYEBROWS'. You keep going with your great work please........... : Love and respect from India.
It's not necessarily a personal attack on Pix Imperfect as much as it is validation for a solid technique that got raked through the mud. But I appreciate your comments :)
You found the video that led me to ask you why 50% grey was any better than just an empty layer. You have risen to the challenge. Ha. I will keep trying to prove you wrong about something but it's beginning to feel like a hopeless undertaking. My friend is watching the ZSE videos and loves them.
It's good if you do not intend on going into PS. However, I find there is far less control in LR or ACR. No masks, no opacity slider (at least in ACR), no Blend If, no Blend modes... its kind of a big list of things you miss out on.
@@f64Academy A sort of blend if in ACR woud be the local ajustment tool, which allows you to select the luminosity range. Wouldn't it? If you are not going into PS, that's enough for me.
Hi Blake, I found this really interesting and thought provoking, and as you make the key point about it being a personal preference. Being a regular ZSE user I want back to check in the training material and panel for ZSE and it confirmed what I thought which is that is very much 50% grey and soft light technique which tended to come at the end of the workflow. Does this mean potentially adding a color cast at the end of all the color correction, grading etc. Would you recommend not to use the ZSE panel for D&B and instead use the actions you have supplied?
I just recently discovered the Linear Light mode, so it won't be in that education. It's a small difference that you will only see a problem with extended dodging and burning or lots of buildup. For small jobs, soft light is great.
I usually do my dodging and burning on a copy of the original photo, this way I can target the highlights, mid tones and darks separately. Is there a way for doing this on 50% grey layers, instead of the photo itself? Thanks. (mostly I use dodging and burning to correct scanned artwork (white) paper tone, without affecting the painted\drawn art itself. If the "art" gets too light, I use the burn tool set to the mid tone to darken it without effecting the light tone of the paper)
Thanks, Blake. Can you comment on the use of the history brush for dodging and burning? Some photographers argue that this is the best method there is. BTW, Merry Christmas!
@@f64Academy Blake, the "Expressive Photography" channel (authored by Alister Benn) published an excellent 3-part RUclips series: "How to Use the History Brush in Photoshop". I have just located the series to send you a link but it turns out that they are now "members only!", and I only subscribe to the free channel where I first saw them. I also seem to recall that I first learned about the technique through a tutorial by Sean Bagshaw recommending it, but I can't locate that tutorial. Perhaps you can get more information from Sean, whom I know you have met before. Sorry that I can't be more helpful here.
3 года назад+2
The biggest problem with the transparent layer I saw was on picking up the percentage from that layer, since white is always 100% white, and black Is always 100% black. With the gray layer, I can see the percentage of gray for every pixel on the layer... Also, blurring layer doesn't change color percentage on the transparent layer, black stays black always...
I commented the same thing on his video, but he never replied. I told him I can't use a empty layer because i use the dodge and burn tools not the brush. So i need the 50% grey layer.
Too funny, I am taking your Best Blend Mode class right now. The timing is hilarious; my brain apparently looks for humour at 3:00 am Let's talk cumbersome. The way that I was taught to D and B for portraits was with color on 50% grey set to soft light, then the eye dropper tool to sample a highlight color, then shift that color away a couple integers from yellow, save THAT to swatches, name it, then sample a shadow area, shift it away from red, save to swatches, name it. Then set brush tool to 1% and switch back and forth for shadows and highlights (and keep track of those swatches until the image was finalized). Sometimes I would forget to clean the swatches out for a while and I would end up with endless swatches that I needed to clean out after. Same with landscapes and wildlife except I may have 4 or 5 swatches to keep track of for one image. D and B with color definitely has a place in my work flow but your way just saved me a lot of time. I just briefly played with this on a portrait, a bear and a landscape and using the Linear Light for D and B flows so much easier and faster. I like the way that Linear light mode allows me to adjust without the need for more brushing or duplicating a layer to increase the depth of the D and B Thank you so much for the lessons. I have joined and paid for many courses over the years and I have to say that I love yours. You have an easy to understand way of teaching and well laid out courses that help make sense of Photoshop
Awesome! Thanks for your support of my work 😁 that is quite the process for DB lol! I hated doing it in the darkroom, but this method is a no brainer 😁 glad you like it too.
@@f64Academy I have done so many courses that for a while I had a hate for Photoshop, but yours have simplified things back to where they make sense again, I cannot thank you enough for that! The RUclips tutorials are very helpful, short and uncomplicated but your full courses are way above standard! I was getting so that I hated to open an image and start on it. The way I was taught is definitely a convoluted process LOL but at the time I was being rushed for a major wedding project taken in god awful lighting (smoky, hazy, mid day, in the trees, at times there were harsh shadows, shadows on the brides face, then super flat orangy/red cast from the smoke just to mention a few LOL) and needed a sure fire way to protect from the color shift in skin tones and dress color that was happening with D and B on a transparent layer. Yes! before anyone asks, I was using off camera flashes and that is all that saved my sanity when I started editing them, they were only a 10th as bad as they could have been for lighting issues. I am SO NOT a wedding photographer and did it is a favour for a friend..never again, I will stick to wildlife and landscapes LOL I really, really like the Linear way for a wildlife image that I am working on. Can't wait to try it on some other practice images later this weekend. Now onto your D and B course then the Tone Theory! :) Thank god I don't have to use a Darkroom, would probably burn the place down and quit taking pictures LOL
A color is a set of HSB. If you change B you will get a new color. That’s the problem with most D&B techniques as shadows of the same Hue (e.g skin tones) are typically less Saturated. A true Dodge technique needs to add Saturation and not just add Brightness.
Try the Linear Light technique as it does target color, but not necessarily as strongly as the Soft Light Blend Mode. The Linear Light blend mode is heavier weighted on tones, but also affects color by the nature of the blend mode, it just doesn't do it as drastically.
I thought the same thing when I heard “him” say that about the gray layer. I’ll have to check out the linear light method. Something else I’ve seen other tutorials claim is that when they use D&B on a gray layer to make sure they check “Protect Tones”. Am I wrong in thinking that’s a waste of time since they’re working on the gray layer its not actually going to protect the tones of the image? The gray layer has no color tones to protect. And the blend mode is going to mess with the colors of the actual image regardless. Or am I missing something?
Does a blank layer respond to different brush blend modes, say overlay? Could there be cases where I may want to use a different blend mode for the brush other than Normal?
@@f64Academy So, that may be another solid reason for using a middle gray fill rather than a blank layer. At least for those who may experiment with different brush blend modes.
I tried and did not find any difference in the dodge and burn behavior with either layer fill when the brush blend mode is changed. I suspect there may be some historic reason for the middle gray fill when the technique was first implemented.
@@f64Academy My bad. I got confused because I just watched the other guys video and he was using the brush. Just rewatched your video and clued in. Thank you for your prompt reply. I appreciate it
The main problem if you PS works with Layers, PS calculate . It´s a differnce if PS calculate with nothing , or calculate with a difference of 50% Grey. The difference is a flattening the depth and Grainness. If you retouch faces . it is absolute o.k. If you retouch landscapes it´s a mess. The the reason most people prefer Lightroom unstead PS. With every brushstroke, and every layer you loose a little bit life that contains the Image naturally. I know Lightroom do similar things like PS, but it´s a difference.
@@JulesMoyaert_photo Yes, the basic technique does work but you have to have the mode set to 8-bit which is the default. What you can't do is use Blend-If which is used in the actions. You can load the actions into PSE but the only one that works is D&B Linear Light. Full marks for learning from PSCC tutorials..
I've had another look and ALL the actions work though the Quick D&B action doesn't give you access to the custom settings during the action. Its still useful as you do have both the Opacity slider and the layer mask to adjust it. If you need help let me know. I teach this sort of stuff at my local camera club.
I recall you stating years back from various BR videos.. that the 50% layer is not the best for D&B. So I've been using your D&B Pro Panel with Method 2 around 20% Opacity. Hard to change now.
I use the 50% Gray layer and have the flow at 6% and then when finished doing D & B I change the opacity to 85% just to take the edge off and I feel it works well.
That may be counter productive, I would use the DB tools instead as you won't have to change your brush. If you want to stick to the brush the 50%gray layer is unnecessary.
As I said under Piximperfect's video and under another one of yours, the massive downside of the 50% grey is the pain to actually erase any edit. The method is very effective and doesn't matter if it's old or new, it's only less flexible than the transparent layer or than my own method (I talk about it in my video). I have also found that dodge and burn should actually have different blending modes for ideal results, not just one layer (either 50% or transparent). But in the end, there's no right or wrong: whatever makes your workflow faster and effective should be your way to go and if 50% grey is your way, use that 👍🏻
You can use the mask 😁 and that's probably morr effective because your brush is now at 100%. Then you can also fluctuate the density of the mask so it's not a full erase, you don't have to have an all out nothing mentality.
@@f64Academy cheers! I haven't tested it with the density but I suppose you're right. And again, whatever works best for you should be your way to go 👍🏻 The thing I'm not a fan of, and the reason why I went to a different path myself, is that I find it an odd idea to have to paint more to erase an area. I know it's how masks work and I'm fine with that when masking. But if I'm brushing/painting/dodging/burning/etc I prefer the actual erase. Which is only one key away (press the tilde while brushing, don't even have to switch tool or rotate the pen).
I teach that method as well in my Dodging and Burning course. It is valid and helpful, but its not the same as the feeling of dodging and burning within the Gray Layer. There is something painterly about it that suits my workflow better. but D&B is a personal preference I think, and what works best for one, may not work best for others.
@@f64Academy you are always my most favorite one ,I have been following both piximperfect and you but you are always ahead with unique instructions .Love to stick on you! Love from land of Buddha and mountains.
Great video Blake, but in all fairness to him, at the end of his video, he does leave the judgement open, asks to be critical and use one's own preferred way. He does not say which is better. His title was completely wrong.
I do agree, as I said, in all fairness here, that he even had great points for his method. I'm not saying he's wrong about his method either. I'm just giving my points for the grey layer and again, leaving it open for you to decide while calling out a click bait title 😁
@@f64Academy I am 100% with you Blake. Btw, wish you could do a video on the up- and downsides in frequency separation for sharpening landscapes. I find it works for me but many swear that they do have noise using it.
It is apparent that you and that Unmesh Dinda dude of Piximperfect are having a feud. You win because your method works, and most important--your hair and, beard, and eyebrows are far nicer than his.
🤣 not necessarily a feud.. Just trying to show that there is a place for the technique when used the correct way. He's a MUCH bigger fish than me and his voice is MUCH louder. I'd never win that, but I'm proud to throw my hand in for the sake of saving a great technique. I'm also kinda ticked he took one of my old images from my website without consent... 😉
Creat a linear black/white gradient and dodge at 100% exposure across it with each of the three tone ranges. .Burn across it as well with the three ranges. Note the results. Create a new gradient and add a 50% gray layer, setting it to Linear Light. Dodge and burn as above and note the results. Bless us with a video on this experiment. I won’t reveal the results, but I’ll say that they just blow what we ALL thought was happening completely away. It’s concerning. None of us understand the actual mechanisms of these things.
Wait, did you seriously talked for 10 minutes to explain yourself? Listen to me son, there are many ways to achieve the same (or very similar) result in Photoshop, right? You have your method, someone else has another method. Are you happy with your method? Awesome! Some people should just stop being petty and go pluck their eyebrows! ;)
Blake, I get it, I really do. I was born and raised in Italy, and for 36 years (the years I lived there) I dealt with pettiness in a very direct way. It was expected as it was normal. My comment was more for the "other guy", the one that has been petty to begin with. ;)
I just watched PiXimperfect's video you're referencing before coming here by chance. The way you've described the usefulness of the linear light method on a 50% gray layer makes SO much sense, especially since it's possible to increase its fill, saving a ton of brushing time. Instant fan and subscriber! You've definitely helped cut my workflow time by a considerable amount with this suggestion! Can't thank you enough!
Awesome!!!! So glad you see the writing on the wall 😁 I appreciate your support!
I was using Delicious Retouch Dodge and Burn retouch panel and came across my 50% gray method. I barely understood dogde and burn and now this! Thank you very much! It makes a lot of sense for an optimized workflow.
You are one of the 5 best teachers on RUclips, and he is also one of them :-)
Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Jasper Augustus Instablaster ;)
@Francisco Mohamed Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Francisco Mohamed It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Jasper Augustus no problem :D
Superb rebuttal and clarification. Really interested in the linear light method...will look at your video on that method.
Hi Blake. I know you didn’t “want” to do this video but I am so very pleased you did do it. You did an excellent job and my understanding has been greatly improved. You showed absolute class in not letting this become personal. Both you guys have excellent Photoshop content and in the end I don’t think there was even a substantive disagreement. It was about different approaches for different people. It is really is just such a shame about the title of the other video. We can thank the almighty RUclips algorithm for that. Keep up the great work!
Unfortunately, we have to create catchy titles to get people to click. I get it, but misleading titles are not cool! Lol, gray layer for life 🤣🤣🤣
I will be sticking with you Blake. Merry Christmas and thanks for all the expertise you have given us in 2020.
It's all about personal preference and what will work best when you need it 😁
Blake, you nailed it! I like very much 'the other guy' and I just watched the video you (elegantly) mentioned. But in this matter, your method gave me the result I was looking for, for the longest time. I used to hate when I saw that gray over my colors when burning. With these settings you taught, I got exactly what I was looking for when using D&B tools! No gray color over my beautiful colors, very natural highlights, and very, very, natural overall result as a whole, fast and with no effort! Thank you so much and all the best to you :)
I like this method, it works for me ;) Everyone had their preference, and I completely accept that :) I just like that my brush stays the same at all times with no color cast.
@@f64Academy Yes, no color cast! Only the color itself accentuated to light or dark - nothing more. Couldn't be more perfect! Thanks again and have a nice and creative day :)
whew... passionate and fast talking :) Thanks.
That's how I roll 😁
Funny, before even clicking on your video (as I was watching Unmesh's vid) I wrote a comment, why would you use the brush on the grey layer? just use the dodge and burn tools and you don't have to adjust the brush to 50% gray to erase anything. Glad someone with a youtube channel is bringing this to everyone's attention.
I really like the 50% gray method. I was dodging/burning with the curves layer method and although I eventually achieved what I wanted it was cumbersome. I understand how your method works and dodging/burning is now efficient and fun. Thank You!!!
Great to hear!
I always use 2 curves adjustment layer. First one goes up, second one down. Both with black masks and then I can mask in my Dodge and Burn completely separated. Maybe this is a bit too complicated, but you can create all of this in a macro and start brushing right away. And with that method I can adjust flow, opacity AND the curve itself and each setting for Dodge and Burn separately.
Yep, I have used it before. My only complaint with that method is having to bounce back and forth between each mask. I really like the speed and efficiency of one layer. But it is up to the individual which method is best for them and their workflow.
Thanks for this. I've had so many arguments with friends about this (gosh what nerds we are). And we all know who you are talking about (and he's a great guy). Whatever works great, works great!
For sure! No ill will, I just have to make this video for clarification purposes as the ripple effect of it has been very difficult on my end every time I use this method.
@@f64Academy Hang in there. You're one of the best PS teachers on RUclips. I should probably start sending you royalty checks from the overflow of client happiness I've been getting. Have a wonderful and blessed Christmas.
@@f64Academy Are we talking about the guy who plagiarized your content and even used one of your images without crediting you? That guy?
Thanks Blake. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas.
Thank you and Merry Christmas to you too!
Thankyou for the video, its hard to find a brief history of dodge and burning even in 2021
My pleasure!
Brilliant explanation.Many thanks.
My pleasure 😁
Oh hum... Tweedledum & Tweedledee. I've been using your Gray Layer/Dodge/Method since you introduced it... No Problem Whatsoever. The color stays exactly where I want it every time. Thanks for making this video, Blake. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
It's a good one.
If you had the influx of emails and comments I do, youd see this far more than tweedledee an tweedledum, lol 😂
I do a lot of dodging and burning in Lr because I just couldn't get it to work in Ps using the dodge and burn tools. Now I know why. I'm going gray layer from now on. Great video. Thanks and have a wonderful holiday!
Perfect! Glad it worked out for you 😁
Hi Blake... I have been following your videos for sometime now and i find it very informative.. i simply dont understand why you have so less subscribers when your teaching methods are outstanding... Anyways please do keep doing whatever you been doing and I am definitely looking out for it. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you.
On a roll Master. Well done. A joyous Christmas to you and the family. Thank you!
Thanks! Merry Christmas to you as well 😁
Hi Blake: Thank your for calling out this obvious 'click-bait' video by the RUclips creator that you have mentioned. I know who you mean, and I must say that I no longer watch or pay any attention to this person. I have always like and appreciate your candid and UN-baised approach to PS. I follow the method you have outlined and find it works the best for my post-processing workflow, and it makes the most sense as it doesn't create UN-necessary down-stream issues. Keep fighting the good battle! Best wishes to you and your family this holiday season. Cheers, Keith
Very good points 😁 I agree with some of his points, but only for the technique he presented. Much like politics, lol, it's easy to get on board with something when they only give you one board to get on 😁
I've always used 50% gray layer with black and white pincel, especially when working with luminosity masks. I've never thought of using dodge and burn tools, which makes more sense btw. I never knew what the 50% gray layer was for, but now I know. I prefer using the 50% gray because it lets you clearly visualize what you did by only looking at that layer. Great explanation. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year.
Glad I could help you learn something new 😁 Merry Christmas to you as well!
So well explained, thanks for this. For my workflow (and something I recommend) I use mainly 2 brushes, a hard one at 100%fill, hardness at 100% too and shape dynamics with pen pressure, and a really soft one at 1-2% fill hardness at 1%, switching between them with just a right click on my pen on the wacom.
I ♥️ how everyone does this simple task so differently.
Totally agreed. As you said,there is a place in your workflow. Julia Kuzmenko (hope i write it correctly) and some other retouchers use the 50% gray on overlay or soft light to contour the images.
It's a great technique 😁
Hi Blake and Merry Christmas! Have been following you for years now..."So without further ado," keep up the great work :o)
Thanks, Harry! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
I learned to dodge and burn with the 50% gray layer, but utilizing the brush at a low opacity. I will definitely try the linear light method using the dodge and burn tools. Thanks, Blake - and Happy Holidays!
You should probably just use the DB tools then, since the low opacity brush will haunt you later as I show here on masks.
@@f64Academy It was an excellent presentation. I'm definitely going your route! Thanks, Blake.
Blake, between the 50% gray layer and the two separate curves layer method, which do you prefer? I've read somewhere that the curves method is significantly quicker. What are your thoughts?
I like them both for different reasons..I like this method for slow build up. But I LOVE curves for its speed and surgical modifications.
@@f64Academy Thanks very much for replying. I'll check to see if you have a video on that method. All the best and thank you for the great tutorials!
Great explanation! Never new what the grey layer was for TBH now I do. Thanks, you know what you are talking about.
Thanks 😁 I experiment a lot!
Thanks for such clear explanaition!
My pleasure!
Hi Blake........,I've learned a lot from you. You elaborated super hard things so easily mannnn thatz amazing....THANK YOU VERY MUCH... , dont need bother about those pix 'IMPERFECT' ones, who even photoshop their voice and accent ;) ........... and yaa.........I hate his 'EYEBROWS'. You keep going with your great work please........... : Love and respect from India.
It's not necessarily a personal attack on Pix Imperfect as much as it is validation for a solid technique that got raked through the mud. But I appreciate your comments :)
You found the video that led me to ask you why 50% grey was any better than just an empty layer. You have risen to the challenge. Ha. I will keep trying to prove you wrong about something but it's beginning to feel like a hopeless undertaking. My friend is watching the ZSE videos and loves them.
Pssshhhhhhht I have seen your work! It is not a hopeless undertaking ;) You are accelerating through this stuff!
Nice way to Dodge out of having to answer all those emails, and I like how the Burn on the other channel was civil and on point ;)
Haha, I love what you did there! Well played words!
Very good video this one. Really appreciate seeing how and why the different methods do what they do.
For sure! It's all about what is best for you when you need it. I just want everyone to be informed.
Well thought out with good justifications for the method.
Thanks! 50% gray is not dead 😁
Man, after watching this video I am on full alert. Did somebody declared dodge & burn war? Merry Christmas and hope to see you before 2021.
haha! I don't know, I just know that over 300,000 people saw that other video and it had me shaking my head...
Very good explanation. Thanx for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent information, as usual! What do you think about D&B using Lightroom compared to Photoshop?
It's good if you do not intend on going into PS. However, I find there is far less control in LR or ACR. No masks, no opacity slider (at least in ACR), no Blend If, no Blend modes... its kind of a big list of things you miss out on.
@@f64Academy A sort of blend if in ACR woud be the local ajustment tool, which allows you to select the luminosity range. Wouldn't it? If you are not going into PS, that's enough for me.
Thank you for the explanation, I'm very new to photoshop, best to start with good habits. Cheers
Roger that!
Thank you for the explanation, already subscribe your channel
Hi Blake, I found this really interesting and thought provoking, and as you make the key point about it being a personal preference. Being a regular ZSE user I want back to check in the training material and panel for ZSE and it confirmed what I thought which is that is very much 50% grey and soft light technique which tended to come at the end of the workflow. Does this mean potentially adding a color cast at the end of all the color correction, grading etc. Would you recommend not to use the ZSE panel for D&B and instead use the actions you have supplied?
I just recently discovered the Linear Light mode, so it won't be in that education. It's a small difference that you will only see a problem with extended dodging and burning or lots of buildup. For small jobs, soft light is great.
True story! You rock!
I usually do my dodging and burning on a copy of the original photo, this way I can target the highlights, mid tones and darks separately.
Is there a way for doing this on 50% grey layers, instead of the photo itself?
Thanks.
(mostly I use dodging and burning to correct scanned artwork (white) paper tone, without affecting the painted\drawn art itself.
If the "art" gets too light, I use the burn tool set to the mid tone to darken it without effecting the light tone of the paper)
Thanks, Blake. Can you comment on the use of the history brush for dodging and burning? Some photographers argue that this is the best method there is. BTW, Merry Christmas!
Really?! I do not use the History brush of anything, nor have I seen that method.
@@f64Academy Blake, the "Expressive Photography" channel (authored by Alister Benn) published an excellent 3-part RUclips series: "How to Use the History Brush in Photoshop". I have just located the series to send you a link but it turns out that they are now "members only!", and I only subscribe to the free channel where I first saw them. I also seem to recall that I first learned about the technique through a tutorial by Sean Bagshaw recommending it, but I can't locate that tutorial. Perhaps you can get more information from Sean, whom I know you have met before. Sorry that I can't be more helpful here.
The biggest problem with the transparent layer I saw was on picking up the percentage from that layer, since white is always 100% white, and black Is always 100% black. With the gray layer, I can see the percentage of gray for every pixel on the layer... Also, blurring layer doesn't change color percentage on the transparent layer, black stays black always...
I commented the same thing on his video, but he never replied. I told him I can't use a empty layer because i use the dodge and burn tools not the brush. So i need the 50% grey layer.
Yesssss...!!! Agree!!! Really good arguments¡¡
Glad you see that :)
Great perspectives
Thanks!
Thanks!
Too funny, I am taking your Best Blend Mode class right now. The timing is hilarious; my brain apparently looks for humour at 3:00 am
Let's talk cumbersome. The way that I was taught to D and B for portraits was with color on 50% grey set to soft light, then the eye dropper tool to sample a highlight color, then shift that color away a couple integers from yellow, save THAT to swatches, name it, then sample a shadow area, shift it away from red, save to swatches, name it. Then set brush tool to 1% and switch back and forth for shadows and highlights (and keep track of those swatches until the image was finalized). Sometimes I would forget to clean the swatches out for a while and I would end up with endless swatches that I needed to clean out after. Same with landscapes and wildlife except I may have 4 or 5 swatches to keep track of for one image. D and B with color definitely has a place in my work flow but your way just saved me a lot of time.
I just briefly played with this on a portrait, a bear and a landscape and using the Linear Light for D and B flows so much easier and faster. I like the way that Linear light mode allows me to adjust without the need for more brushing or duplicating a layer to increase the depth of the D and B
Thank you so much for the lessons. I have joined and paid for many courses over the years and I have to say that I love yours. You have an easy to understand way of teaching and well laid out courses that help make sense of Photoshop
Awesome! Thanks for your support of my work 😁 that is quite the process for DB lol!
I hated doing it in the darkroom, but this method is a no brainer 😁 glad you like it too.
@@f64Academy I have done so many courses that for a while I had a hate for Photoshop, but yours have simplified things back to where they make sense again, I cannot thank you enough for that! The RUclips tutorials are very helpful, short and uncomplicated but your full courses are way above standard! I was getting so that I hated to open an image and start on it.
The way I was taught is definitely a convoluted process LOL but at the time I was being rushed for a major wedding project taken in god awful lighting (smoky, hazy, mid day, in the trees, at times there were harsh shadows, shadows on the brides face, then super flat orangy/red cast from the smoke just to mention a few LOL) and needed a sure fire way to protect from the color shift in skin tones and dress color that was happening with D and B on a transparent layer. Yes! before anyone asks, I was using off camera flashes and that is all that saved my sanity when I started editing them, they were only a 10th as bad as they could have been for lighting issues.
I am SO NOT a wedding photographer and did it is a favour for a friend..never again, I will stick to wildlife and landscapes LOL
I really, really like the Linear way for a wildlife image that I am working on. Can't wait to try it on some other practice images later this weekend.
Now onto your D and B course then the Tone Theory! :)
Thank god I don't have to use a Darkroom, would probably burn the place down and quit taking pictures LOL
Thank You!
My pleasure!
A color is a set of HSB. If you change B you will get a new color. That’s the problem with most D&B techniques as shadows of the same Hue (e.g skin tones) are typically less Saturated. A true Dodge technique needs to add Saturation and not just add Brightness.
Try the Linear Light technique as it does target color, but not necessarily as strongly as the Soft Light Blend Mode. The Linear Light blend mode is heavier weighted on tones, but also affects color by the nature of the blend mode, it just doesn't do it as drastically.
I thought the same thing when I heard “him” say that about the gray layer. I’ll have to check out the linear light method. Something else I’ve seen other tutorials claim is that when they use D&B on a gray layer to make sure they check “Protect Tones”. Am I wrong in thinking that’s a waste of time since they’re working on the gray layer its not actually going to protect the tones of the image? The gray layer has no color tones to protect. And the blend mode is going to mess with the colors of the actual image regardless. Or am I missing something?
Does a blank layer respond to different brush blend modes, say overlay? Could there be cases where I may want to use a different blend mode for the brush other than Normal?
Maybe, but I typically don't change my brush blend modes because I always forget to set them back to normal.
@@f64Academy So, that may be another solid reason for using a middle gray fill rather than a blank layer. At least for those who may experiment with different brush blend modes.
I tried and did not find any difference in the dodge and burn behavior with either layer fill when the brush blend mode is changed. I suspect there may be some historic reason for the middle gray fill when the technique was first implemented.
Serious question. Still trying to learn. Why not use the dodge and burn tools in PS for dodging and buring instead of the brush tool?
I do use the Dodge and Burn Tools when I use this method. I was showing my rebuttal against the brushes in the rest of the video.
@@f64Academy My bad. I got confused because I just watched the other guys video and he was using the brush. Just rewatched your video and clued in. Thank you for your prompt reply. I appreciate it
@@ldouglass6 for sure! Have a great day.
The main problem if you PS works with Layers, PS calculate . It´s a differnce if PS calculate with nothing , or calculate with a difference of 50% Grey. The difference is a flattening the depth and Grainness. If you retouch faces . it is absolute o.k. If you retouch landscapes it´s a mess. The the reason most people prefer Lightroom unstead PS. With every brushstroke, and every layer you loose a little bit life that contains the Image naturally. I know Lightroom do similar things like PS, but it´s a difference.
Thank you, Blake. Would it work with PS Elements as well?
I don't know I don't use elements, if these things are in elements then yes, but you'd need to experiment.
@@f64Academy Thank you!
@@JulesMoyaert_photo Yes, the basic technique does work but you have to have the mode set to 8-bit which is the default. What you can't do is use Blend-If which is used in the actions. You can load the actions into PSE but the only one that works is D&B Linear Light. Full marks for learning from PSCC tutorials..
@@davestokes3446 Dave, thank you very for taking time to answer my question! Thanks!!
I've had another look and ALL the actions work though the Quick D&B action doesn't give you access to the custom settings during the action. Its still useful as you do have both the Opacity slider and the layer mask to adjust it. If you need help let me know. I teach this sort of stuff at my local camera club.
I recall you stating years back from various BR videos.. that the 50% layer is not the best for D&B. So I've been using your D&B Pro Panel with Method 2 around 20% Opacity. Hard to change now.
I don't ever recall saying that. But in the DB panel, method 3 is the gray layer and I use it in all my demos.
Im here after searching piximperfect's video. He still suggested few thing on that video, anyways its good to learn new things..
New suscriber added 😊
😁 thanks for watching! I'm a fan of the 50% grey layer, but I do understand why people do things differently.
dodge is like contrast filter on brightness and contrast except you apply it as a brush.
I use the 50% Gray layer and have the flow at 6% and then when finished doing D & B I change the opacity to 85% just to take the edge off and I feel it works well.
That may be counter productive, I would use the DB tools instead as you won't have to change your brush. If you want to stick to the brush the 50%gray layer is unnecessary.
@@f64Academy I do use the DB tools, not the brush.
How do we erase using this method?
Use a 50% grey color on a brush on the layer or brush on the mask
As I said under Piximperfect's video and under another one of yours, the massive downside of the 50% grey is the pain to actually erase any edit.
The method is very effective and doesn't matter if it's old or new, it's only less flexible than the transparent layer or than my own method (I talk about it in my video). I have also found that dodge and burn should actually have different blending modes for ideal results, not just one layer (either 50% or transparent).
But in the end, there's no right or wrong: whatever makes your workflow faster and effective should be your way to go and if 50% grey is your way, use that
👍🏻
You can use the mask 😁 and that's probably morr effective because your brush is now at 100%. Then you can also fluctuate the density of the mask so it's not a full erase, you don't have to have an all out nothing mentality.
@@f64Academy cheers! I haven't tested it with the density but I suppose you're right. And again, whatever works best for you should be your way to go
👍🏻
The thing I'm not a fan of, and the reason why I went to a different path myself, is that I find it an odd idea to have to paint more to erase an area. I know it's how masks work and I'm fine with that when masking. But if I'm brushing/painting/dodging/burning/etc I prefer the actual erase. Which is only one key away (press the tilde while brushing, don't even have to switch tool or rotate the pen).
@@f64Academy yo can erase with a neutral 50% (128 128 128) grey color brush on the grey layer :)
How about using multi-layers of curve & opacity. If you think your original edits were crazy aggressive you can go back and make tweaks.
I teach that method as well in my Dodging and Burning course. It is valid and helpful, but its not the same as the feeling of dodging and burning within the Gray Layer. There is something painterly about it that suits my workflow better. but D&B is a personal preference I think, and what works best for one, may not work best for others.
Is the "instructor" piximperfect?
Maybe 😁 he's good, but this video had me scratching my head 🤗
@@f64Academy you are always my most favorite one ,I have been following both piximperfect and you but you are always ahead with unique instructions .Love to stick on you! Love from land of Buddha and mountains.
Great video Blake, but in all fairness to him, at the end of his video, he does leave the judgement open, asks to be critical and use one's own preferred way. He does not say which is better. His title was completely wrong.
I do agree, as I said, in all fairness here, that he even had great points for his method. I'm not saying he's wrong about his method either. I'm just giving my points for the grey layer and again, leaving it open for you to decide while calling out a click bait title 😁
@@f64Academy I am 100% with you Blake. Btw, wish you could do a video on the up- and downsides in frequency separation for sharpening landscapes. I find it works for me but many swear that they do have noise using it.
I typically dodge and burn with empty layer while I have a luminosity mask selected and marching ants hidden.
Boom! You can drop the mic now.
Haha
Checkmate! ;-)
😁
It is apparent that you and that Unmesh Dinda dude of Piximperfect are having a feud. You win because your method works, and most important--your hair and, beard, and eyebrows are far nicer than his.
🤣 not necessarily a feud.. Just trying to show that there is a place for the technique when used the correct way. He's a MUCH bigger fish than me and his voice is MUCH louder. I'd never win that, but I'm proud to throw my hand in for the sake of saving a great technique. I'm also kinda ticked he took one of my old images from my website without consent... 😉
Creat a linear black/white gradient and dodge at 100% exposure across it with each of the three tone ranges. .Burn across it as well with the three ranges. Note the results.
Create a new gradient and add a 50% gray layer, setting it to Linear Light. Dodge and burn as above and note the results.
Bless us with a video on this experiment. I won’t reveal the results, but I’ll say that they just blow what we ALL thought was happening completely away. It’s concerning. None of us understand the actual mechanisms of these things.
Is it just me or the video is heaviky inspired from piximperfect including the title and thumbnail
It's _preciseky_ inspired by that source ;-)
Roger that 😁
👍
😛🤪😜Your subject topic is better matched with the T-shirt you wear.... grey color.😛😛😋
Superbly confusing.
Lol
Wait, did you seriously talked for 10 minutes to explain yourself? Listen to me son, there are many ways to achieve the same (or very similar) result in Photoshop, right? You have your method, someone else has another method. Are you happy with your method? Awesome! Some people should just stop being petty and go pluck their eyebrows! ;)
Oh I wish it were that simple. You should see some of the requests I get via email.
Blake, I get it, I really do. I was born and raised in Italy, and for 36 years (the years I lived there) I dealt with pettiness in a very direct way. It was expected as it was normal. My comment was more for the "other guy", the one that has been petty to begin with. ;)
Why you don't name him? Every Photoshop user in the world knows who you mean in this video🤣🤙