Electric Brewing Supply - Panel Build - Back Panel Wiring Completed
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- In the continuation of the control panel build, I complete the wiring on the back panel. We are making some progress now!!
I am not being paid by Electric Brewing Supply for doing this video series.
I do have an affiliate account with them and if you find this video helpful and want to support my continued effort to bring more information on the wonderful hobby of electric brewing. Please consider using the links below to purchase your kit or any other components you might need. I do appreciate the support and it does not cost you any more to use the links. (Amazon links ARE NOT affiliate links)
Electric Brewing Supply
ebrewsupply.com?aff=5
The PID based 30 Amp conrtol panel featured in this build.
www.ebrewsupply...
Individual parts and componenets for electric brewing.
www.ebrewsupply...
PDF version of the wiring guide: guide.ebrew.sup...
Find us on Social media
FB - Facebook.com/shortcircuitedbrewers
Instagram - @shortcircuitedbrewer
Twitter - @scbclub
Reddit - shortcircuitedbrewer
Support our channel by purchasing a t-shirt: goo.gl/cjB87U
If you find value in our content, please consider shopping for all of your home brewing needs using our affiliate links below. It does not cost you a cent more and it helps us bring you more quality content. Thank you for your support! -Brian
Morebeer:
goo.gl/wkSI4L
Adventures in Homebrewing:
goo.gl/u3NCMc
Great Fermentations
goo.gl/FPb7Zy
Williams Brewing:
goo.gl/ZJqxaR
Whatdafunk by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Artist: audionautix.com/
Hi Brian
First of all, thank you for all your great informative videos. I’ve been home brewing now for only about 5 months. I’m setting myself up a bit better in my basement in an unused wine cellar. I have a non-brewing question:
I noticed in your videos that in behind your setup and sink, the wall looks like reclaimed barn wood panels. Did you put a finish of sorts to protect the wood from water and other products?
Those are actually floor tiles that are vinyl that I glued to the wall. They worked out very well and look nice. 👍🍻
Good job my brother
Thanks!
The sub panel is coming along really well. Looks great, Brian! The only things I would recommend doing differently would be to save the 10 gauge red and black wire for last, so that it lays on top of the other wire, and second Pete's recommendation to use cable tie mounting bases to organize the wire as you go. Your wire runs are looking good though, so you'll be fine even if you leave them off the sub panel. But I'd highly recommend them for the door, as it can get really messy. Also, if you look on page 100 of the wiring guide (Wiring the Main Power switch and Green LED), you'll see a loop of red 18 gauge wire that runs from the main power distribution terminal blocks to the green LED. You'll probably want to add that before you merge the sub panel back into the enclosure. Keep up the good work. I'm enjoying following along with your build!
Thanks Carl!! Good advice. Thanks for watching.. I used the zip tie hold downs on my own panel and I am planning on adding some to this as well.. something else that the instructions don't call for but I'm going to go ahead and do anyways is put some labels on the back side of the door, labeling all of the components, as well as suggest that people use painters tape at the very least to help from confusing components when looking at them from the back side. Cheers! 🍻
The labels are a great idea. You can use the wire colors to distinguish things once it's all wired up, but the labels will help, especially during the wiring process. It can be hard to keep it all straight when what you're wiring is essentially mirrored from how you'll normally interact with it.
RIGHT!! Also nice if you ever need to troubleshoot anything.. 🍻
Hi, with regards to the wiring, im in NZ running 240V I assume I just need the single live powering everything, in the states it looks like to get 240V you run two lives.
I've been trying to find a wiring diagram for my region but so far havnt been able to.
Contact Ryan at electric brewing and get his advice.
I noticed that your 30 amp PID kit came with two 240V breakers. The kit I bought from Electric Brewing Supply a couple years ago only uses one 240V breaker. I wonder what prompted the change in design.
Not sure? It may have something to do with their UL listing. While these kits are not UL listed, they may have decided to make that change across the board on their kits. Maybe Ryan will comment on this?
Greetings Brian. Do you split 220 volt to 110 and 12 volt anywhere? What is e stop? cheers
Old Norse brewery it is a panic button to shut down the entire panel. The "legs" of the 220 fo get split. One of them in this video runs to the 110v circuit breaker. On the other end of that connection is the bus bar that connects multiple connections to that one wire coming off of the main breaker.
Trying to do my RIMS build and need some help. Everything seemsbto be working up to the contactor. Have 120v going into each leg but there is nothing coming out of the contactor. The coil is energized
Are you using a 220 element?
Yup
Stephen Cheng can you email me a photo to Brian@shortcircuitedbrewers.com? So I can take a look?
What do you mean the power supply was backwards? I have. DIN contractors and thought polarity didn't matter
Stephen the power relay was backwards on the rail system. It is not an issue of polarity. It was a visual issue looking at the connections in the instruction manual..I could have left it that way and moved 2 wires, but for consistency to the wiring diagram, I fixed it. That's all. Probably could have not even mentioned it.. But I want to make sure if someone is following these videos in the future they understand the importance of double checking everything.
Got it, just finished a RIMS controller build but I have to use 240v generator power so I also had to build a GFCI spa panel
Cool! I have heard of some people using generators for electric brewing.
Just using it for RIMS, use propane for everything else. Renting a house, so cannot change the house wiring, active military so we move every few years
It actually doesnt matter what side of the breaker your hot leads come in from
Wait.... that's a contactor... its DOES MATTER.
Lol no worries..
So based off your wiring you are using 110v for control voltage and not dropping to 24vac. That is weird
johnjensen4 I'm not sure why that is weird. All of the controls (PID's) operate off of 110 volts. Nothing in this kit runs off of 24 VAC.