This is a great series of vids. I've been contemplating something like this on a 66 F100 flareside. But a bit longer. Also gonna put a 5L coyote and automatic trans and new or rebuilt transfer case in.
Glad I found you. I'm looking at the same thing for a '49 F4. I had thought of cutting slices off the right/left sides of the rear window of the rear panel as filler pieces. Interesting idea to go with the doors.
I was going to use the rear window from the original cab for the corner windows, but the shape of the rear window just didn't work for the corner windows, in my opinion. And I didn't use any of the rear panel because it doesn't have the body line like the sides and doors do.
Nice work there, I have seen so many of these attempted with only a couple nailing the look I can't wait to see how this works out for you! Great job videoing and editing video is very watchable and informative.
Cool project. I watch the fellas at Bello’s kustoms. He is a metal magician. I’ve learned a lot from him. Also Lazzie and a few others are very helpful.
Thank you, and thank you for the advice. I've watched Lazze many times and he make metal shaping look so easy. I'll definitely have to check out Bello's Kustoms as well. Cheers.
Really cool man. I’m doing a 55 f100 right now and I am doing the learn as you go method with a lot of the body work. Your videos have definitely given me some ideas and some techniques to try. You look like your well on your way to an awesome truck. Hope the videos keep coming!
Thank you! As frustrating as it is sometimes, I really am enjoying the build process. Even though I have no idea what I'm doing! :) Good luck with your '55.
Karl from make it kustom is even easier to follow in making patch panels... of course, Brent from halfass kustoms makes this stuff right in front of your eyes like Karl does... a real hands on people person! Brent makes it work, and Karl makes it work perfect. I think looking at your work, Karl from Make it kustom is the go to guy. Frisee is a hammer and fit with tons of little scraps. I like his results but Karl, a half his age is another Chip Foose in the making
I ended up adding 11 inches. I shortened the bed by 11inches - by making the distance in the front section of the bed in front of the rear fenders match the distance on the rear of the bed behind the rear fenders.
Just found your channel. Can’t wait to see the final product. My only complaint is you’re not showing the actual work. Maybe put the camera on a tripod while you work.
Yes, I started with a 2000 Ford Explorer and cut away almost all of the body except for a small part of the floorpan and fire wall. I'm also using the complete Explorer chassis - frame, engine/trans, and running gear.
Watching from Australia, enjoy what you are doing, but please stop talking so much and show us more of the work you are doing, that's what we really want to see.
@@goofyfootgarage3343 I do like to hear you record while you work things out in your head but what you are showing is sometimes repetitive. Edit, maybe? I know that adds a lot of time but I have occasionally thought some of the videos could be 5 minutes shorter and still convey everything you are doing. Having watched from the beginning on your other channel, it is very encouraging to see how far your welding skills have progressed, as I have yet to start that journey. I also can't wait until you get to the electrical system -- my worst nightmare!
hello, just found you, love the build. i was think why are you doing it the hard way? would it not be easyer if you cut the passenger door inner and out skin as one unit, then put the passenger door part on the drivers side giving you the b post, and the same with the drivers door cut it the same way and put that on the passenger side giving less work? P.S heres to good YT'ers make it kustom, and rat rods of Africa
I'm not sure what you're trying to say about doing this the hard way. I don't need the inner part of the spare doors to build a B pillar. I never cut out the B pillar from the original cab. So I really just need the door skins to fill in the gap between the existing B pillar and the new extended cab back half. In doing so, I will effectively remove the B pillar (door jam) that's still in the extended cab half that I'm added to the original cab - currently that would be considered a C pillar. And I don't think I'll really need a C pillar for the extended cab section, but you never know! I hope that all makes sense.
@@goofyfootgarage3343 hi what i was trying o say is, if you cut the 12" (the size of the gap) of the hole door if would give a bit of strength to the panel, and taking he left door and putting that on the right side it would give you the b post where the window is which would be less welding hope that helps a bit ?
@@goofyfootgarage3343 hello found this on YT 1946 studebaker pu extended cab project eps 2 ( ruclips.net/video/vi4m9mzeLWM/видео.html ) in that you can what i meant with the doors. ps loving you bilud
So far you’re doing a professional job, it’s hard to believe it’s your first time Working on a project this ,You’re a natural doing bodywork 👍.
Thank you so much!
Looks great DJ. Fitzee would be proud of your work.
Thank you!
This is a great series of vids. I've been contemplating something like this on a 66 F100 flareside. But a bit longer. Also gonna put a 5L coyote and automatic trans and new or rebuilt transfer case in.
Lovin' the video's. I'm working on a 69 scout 800 and a 72 F100 myself. Never done any work like this either!
Glad I found you. I'm looking at the same thing for a '49 F4. I had thought of cutting slices off the right/left sides of the rear window of the rear panel as filler pieces. Interesting idea to go with the doors.
I was going to use the rear window from the original cab for the corner windows, but the shape of the rear window just didn't work for the corner windows, in my opinion. And I didn't use any of the rear panel because it doesn't have the body line like the sides and doors do.
Nice work there, I have seen so many of these attempted with only a couple nailing the look I can't wait to see how this works out for you! Great job videoing and editing video is very watchable and informative.
I've also seen a few done, and few done not very well. I hope I"m able to nail the look I'm going for.
Cool project. I watch the fellas at Bello’s kustoms. He is a metal magician. I’ve learned a lot from him. Also Lazzie and a few others are very helpful.
Thank you, and thank you for the advice. I've watched Lazze many times and he make metal shaping look so easy. I'll definitely have to check out Bello's Kustoms as well. Cheers.
Really cool man. I’m doing a 55 f100 right now and I am doing the learn as you go method with a lot of the body work. Your videos have definitely given me some ideas and some techniques to try. You look like your well on your way to an awesome truck. Hope the videos keep coming!
Thank you! As frustrating as it is sometimes, I really am enjoying the build process. Even though I have no idea what I'm doing! :) Good luck with your '55.
Great fab work and fitzee is a great source too. Hope the tips are good!👍🏼
Yes! Thank you!
Fitzee is the man!
The upper window line should describe an arc that is continuous and meets the upper line of the portal window,
Be nice to see you doing the work
Do you want to see some nice work check out halfass Customs with a K
Good looking job buddy
Thanks 👍
Looking good!
Thank you!
Karl from make it kustom is even easier to follow in making patch panels... of course, Brent from halfass kustoms makes this stuff right in front of your eyes like Karl does... a real hands on people person! Brent makes it work, and Karl makes it work perfect. I think looking at your work, Karl from Make it kustom is the go to guy. Frisee is a hammer and fit with tons of little scraps. I like his results but Karl, a half his age is another Chip Foose in the making
Yeah, I've watched a lot of Halfass Kustoms videos, too. The General (his crew cab IH) he built gave me a lot of ideas and helpful tricks.
I often watch the boys at Iron Resurrection, Martin Bros. Customs. Or Dave Kindig.
Very nice! Ron PTL USA
Thank you very much!
How many inches back did you go? I am doing the same thing on a 36 dodge, going back 6" with no window.
I ended up adding 11 inches. I shortened the bed by 11inches - by making the distance in the front section of the bed in front of the rear fenders match the distance on the rear of the bed behind the rear fenders.
Just found your channel. Can’t wait to see the final product. My only complaint is you’re not showing the actual work. Maybe put the camera on a tripod while you work.
Top bom trabalho ... é nos krekauto funilaria
Thank you!
Is that on an Exploder chassis?
Yes, I started with a 2000 Ford Explorer and cut away almost all of the body except for a small part of the floorpan and fire wall. I'm also using the complete Explorer chassis - frame, engine/trans, and running gear.
Watching from Australia, enjoy what you are doing, but please stop talking so much and show us more of the work you are doing, that's what we really want to see.
I know I ramble on. Talk less, show more. Got it!
@@goofyfootgarage3343 I do like to hear you record while you work things out in your head but what you are showing is sometimes repetitive. Edit, maybe? I know that adds a lot of time but I have occasionally thought some of the videos could be 5 minutes shorter and still convey everything you are doing. Having watched from the beginning on your other channel, it is very encouraging to see how far your welding skills have progressed, as I have yet to start that journey. I also can't wait until you get to the electrical system -- my worst nightmare!
Or Might try it with a 60s model chevy truck.
hello, just found you, love the build. i was think why are you doing it the hard way? would it not be easyer if you cut the passenger door inner and out skin as one unit, then put the passenger door part on the drivers side giving you the b post, and the same with the drivers door cut it the same way and put that on the passenger side giving less work? P.S heres to good YT'ers make it kustom, and rat rods of Africa
I'm not sure what you're trying to say about doing this the hard way. I don't need the inner part of the spare doors to build a B pillar. I never cut out the B pillar from the original cab. So I really just need the door skins to fill in the gap between the existing B pillar and the new extended cab back half. In doing so, I will effectively remove the B pillar (door jam) that's still in the extended cab half that I'm added to the original cab - currently that would be considered a C pillar. And I don't think I'll really need a C pillar for the extended cab section, but you never know! I hope that all makes sense.
@@goofyfootgarage3343 hi what i was trying o say is, if you cut the 12" (the size of the gap) of the hole door if would give a bit of strength to the panel, and taking he left door and putting that on the right side it would give you the b post where the window is which would be less welding hope that helps a bit ?
@@goofyfootgarage3343 hello found this on YT 1946 studebaker pu extended cab project eps 2 ( ruclips.net/video/vi4m9mzeLWM/видео.html ) in that you can what i meant with the doors. ps loving you bilud
You could Always fill the window hole.
Nah, I want some sort of corner window for better visibility.