Disappointing that you can't Light it up. But otherwise a great model. Looks like it'll take up a lot of materials to print as well. That's what's holding me back from buying it atm. Don't suppose you guys could make a hollowed version that uses less material and can be lighted?
We hear you, and are grateful for your all-covering feedback on the design of the Star Destroyer 3D Printing Model. As we have mentioned in our answer to your previous comment, from our end, we normally don’t limit the stretch of imagination of our contributing 3D artists during the designing process. The Star Destroyer model for 3D printing is no exception, that is why the ship’s model’s specifications stand to represent the author’s viewpoints. Please, be advised that when preparing the model for 3D printing, our Moderation team ensured that the cutting of the model as well as suggested default orientation help every customer reduce the amount of materials used. Also, the model is made hollow for you to introduce LED wiring and light up the Command Bridge, the ion engines, and several windows along the hull; a spot to hide the battery is provided inside the Command Bridge (www.gambody.com/image/1470/09ef.png). You can find more information on the model’s page, tab “Description”(www.gambody.com/3d-models/star-destroyer). In case you are interested in any additional information, don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at support@gambody.com or via messages on Facebook (facebook.com/Gambody). 🤗
Simple-ish solution. You can use clear resin/filament to print the pieces you want lights in. Paint as normal, but leave windows, etc unpainted.....put LED behind those areas and you have lights! Edit: You can also use model inks to paint over the clear bits to change the light color visible from the outside.
Hello, thank you for contacting us about the blobbing issues with your Star Destroyer print. We're sorry to hear that you experienced this! Please note that the parts in the FFF/FDM version of the Star Destroyer model are already oriented by our Moderation Team for optimal printing. This orientation has been carefully chosen to ensure smooth details and easy placement on the build plate, especially for beginners. We recommend that you print them in this orientation for best results. Now, blobbing on top layers can be caused by a few things. One possible reason could be the retraction settings in your slicer. When the filament retracts during travel moves, a little extra may come out, leaving blobs on the top layers. Try calibrating your retraction distance and speed to minimize oozing. Another potential cause is inadequate cooling settings. Make sure your printer's cooling fan is working properly, and consider increasing the fan speed for the top layers. In addition, we highly recommend using the printing settings provided by our Team for the most popular FDM slicers - Cura, Bambu Lab, Simplify3D, Slic3r, and PrusaSlicer - which can be found on the model page in the "Printing Details" tab: www.gambody.com/3d-models/star-destroyer. To help us further diagnose the problem and provide more specific advice, could you provide some additional information? Knowing your 3D printer model and seeing pictures of the affected areas, including part names, would be very helpful. Feel free to send this information to our Support Team at support@gambody.com. We're here to help you get a flawless Star Destroyer print!
Thanks for asking! The smaller version you're referring to is the DLP/SLA version of the Star Destroyer model, which comes in a 1:3400 scale. For reference, one of our customers, Robert Hampton, printed the Star Destroyer model in the recommended scale using 3 kilograms of resin. Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/groups/183216945475583 and check out Robert Hampton's impressive print here: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1819669631830298/. While the exact final mass of the model wasn't specified, it's important to note that during printing, some resin can be lost due to factors like evaporation of solvents or residual material left in the vat. The exact percentage of weight loss can vary depending on the resin type and printing settings, so the final mass of the model is just an approximation based on the amount of resin used. We estimate that the final mass of the model would likely be around 2.7-2.9 kilograms. We hope this information helps! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions or if there's anything else we can assist you with.
Thanks for leaving the comment and for revealing your interest in the Star Destroyer 3D Printing Model. Going by your feedback, we assume you must be interested in printing the model at a large size. Hence, first, we want to note that the model comes at a suggested default scale which is 1:1700 and 1:3400 for the FFF/FDM and DLP/SLA/SLS versions respectively(calculated from the actual length of the Star Destroyer that is 1600 m). When printed at a default size, the ship model is going to have the next dimensions: 312 mm tall, 575 mm wide, 944 mm deep (FFF/FDM 1.0 version); 156 mm tall, 288 mm wide, 472 mm deep (DLP/SLA 1.0 version). Also, let us note that the scale change might affect the alteration of some details yet still yield satisfactory results. The main thing that you should pay attention to is the dimensions of the build plate of the 3D printing machine that you’re going to use. Kindly make sure that you scale up the parts the model comprises proportionally, and all the enlarged parts fit the build volume of our printer. Also, in our group, you will be able to observe the quality of some models 3D printed at larger scales, please, follow the link: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583. For any further information, feel free to contact us at support@gambody.com or via Facebook messages! 👍
Hi! Thank you for your inquiry about LED sizes for the Star Destroyer model! We appreciate your interest in adding LED lighting to enhance the visual appeal of your print. Based on your question, here's what we recommend: For optimal lighting effect and convenience, we recommend using 3mm LEDs for the Star Destroyer model. These LEDs are smaller in size, making them easier to install inside the model. They also require less power to operate and generate less heat, which is good for the plastic material used in the print. We also suggest considering the use of fiber optic LED strands, as they provide a powerful illumination effect. If you have the possibility to incorporate fiber optic LEDs, this can create an impressive lighting result. Ultimately, the choice between 3mm LEDs and fiber optic LEDs depends on your preferences and the desired lighting effect you want to achieve. If you have any further questions or need more guidance on LED installation, please don't hesitate to contact us. We're here to help you get the most out of your 3D-printing experience. Have fun printing and lighting up your Star Destroyer!
Hello, Thank you for your feedback on our Star Destroyer model. We apologize for any inconvenience caused by the visible Z-seams in your print. Achieving a seamless finish can sometimes be challenging and we appreciate your patience and understanding. If you're experiencing Z-seams in your prints, we recommend experimenting with different print settings such as layer height and retraction settings, you can also choose the location of the seam on the print, select a specific pattern or path for the seam. Additionally, adjusting the position and orientation of the model on the print bed might help minimize the visibility of the Z-seams. We invite you to check out a Facebook post within our community where another customer has shared their successful print of the same model. You can find it here: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1343333836130549. It may give you some insight and inspiration for achieving better results. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us at support@gambody.com. We're here to help you get the best results from our models. Thank you for your support and happy printing!
Im very interested in getting this model, could you advise are the parts orientated ready for printing or will i need to rotate them when I put them in my slicer?
Hello, Thank you for your interest in the Star Destroyer model! We're glad to hear that you're excited about it. Regarding the parts orientation, we have already taken care of that for you. All the parts are pre-oriented and ready for printing, so you won't need to rotate them when importing into your slicer software. In addition to the Star Destroyer, we have an exciting offer for Star Wars fans like yourself. We have a bundle deal where you can get both the Star Destroyer and Death Star II models together at a discounted price. This bundle allows you to save some money while expanding your Star Wars collection. If you're interested, feel free to check out the details on our website: www.gambody.com/3d-models/death-star-ii Thanks for choosing Gambody!
Thanks for your interest! When it comes to 3D design software, there are various options available, including both paid and free versions. Professionals often use software like ZBrush and Autodesk Maya 3D, which are known for their robust features and capabilities. However, if you're looking for free alternatives, there are some excellent options available. Blender, for example, is a powerful open-source software that offers a wide range of 3D design features. It's free to use and has a vibrant community that provides support and resources. Our Team utilizes KeyShot software to meticulously craft and showcase the amazing details of the models we provide. It's a powerful tool that helps us bring these creations to life. We'd love to have you join our thriving community on Facebook, where you can connect with fellow 3D printing enthusiasts, share your projects, and stay in the loop with our latest releases. Feel free to join us at: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/. If you have any questions or need assistance, don't hesitate to contact us.
Hi there! Absolutely! It's easy to add lighting to the Star Destroyer model! The spaceship is hollow to introduce LED wiring, allowing you to light up the Command Bridge, ion engines, and windows along the hull. There's also a special place inside the command bridge to hide the battery. Check out some amazing examples of our customers' illuminated Star Destroyer models here: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1685816461882283/ facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1447789995684932/ facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1343333836130549/ For more helpful tips, be sure to check out our blog article "How to Put Up LED Lights in a 3D Printed Model": www.gambody.com/blog/how-to-install-led-lights-in-a-3d-printed-model/. We can't wait to see your version of the Star Destroyer!
Please, accept our apologies for any inconvenience you may have encountered when trying to access our marketplace. We welcome all the customers without exception to reach out to our Support Team in case of any difficulties. Do contact our representatives via messages on Facebook or email at support@gambody.com and we will gladly help you find a solution.🙂
Well, usually adjusting such printing settings as support density, overhang angle, and "Support Top Distance" parameter in the tab "Support Z Distance" etc. can significantly ease the removal process. The latter parameter sets the distance from the top of the support structure to the surface of the model, so if this parameter is too low, the supports may stick to the model and result in complicated post-processing. So we would suggest that you revise your printing parameters, tweak them a little and run some test prints to see if it helps remove the supports easier. Also, you can learn about practices, tips and tricks used by other hobbyists when dealing with the same situation in our Facebook group “Gambody - 3D Printing Community” (facebook.com/groups/183216945475583). In case the issue persists, please, feel free to contact our Support Team either via messages on Facebook or at support@gambody.com. 👍
![Tee Grizzley - Blow for Blow (feat. J. Cole) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wNLN5xsx5dc/mqdefault.jpg)
Disappointing that you can't Light it up. But otherwise a great model. Looks like it'll take up a lot of materials to print as well. That's what's holding me back from buying it atm. Don't suppose you guys could make a hollowed version that uses less material and can be lighted?
We hear you, and are grateful for your all-covering feedback on the design of the Star Destroyer 3D Printing Model. As we have mentioned in our answer to your previous comment, from our end, we normally don’t limit the stretch of imagination of our contributing 3D artists during the designing process. The Star Destroyer model for 3D printing is no exception, that is why the ship’s model’s specifications stand to represent the author’s viewpoints.
Please, be advised that when preparing the model for 3D printing, our Moderation team ensured that the cutting of the model as well as suggested default orientation help every customer reduce the amount of materials used. Also, the model is made hollow for you to introduce LED wiring and light up the Command Bridge, the ion engines, and several windows along the hull; a spot to hide the battery is provided inside the Command Bridge (www.gambody.com/image/1470/09ef.png). You can find more information on the model’s page, tab “Description”(www.gambody.com/3d-models/star-destroyer).
In case you are interested in any additional information, don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at support@gambody.com or via messages on Facebook (facebook.com/Gambody). 🤗
Simple-ish solution. You can use clear resin/filament to print the pieces you want lights in. Paint as normal, but leave windows, etc unpainted.....put LED behind those areas and you have lights!
Edit: You can also use model inks to paint over the clear bits to change the light color visible from the outside.
I printed the parts lying down as in the description but on the top layers there are ugly blops or something any idea? Or better prrint them standing?
Hello, thank you for contacting us about the blobbing issues with your Star Destroyer print. We're sorry to hear that you experienced this!
Please note that the parts in the FFF/FDM version of the Star Destroyer model are already oriented by our Moderation Team for optimal printing. This orientation has been carefully chosen to ensure smooth details and easy placement on the build plate, especially for beginners. We recommend that you print them in this orientation for best results.
Now, blobbing on top layers can be caused by a few things. One possible reason could be the retraction settings in your slicer. When the filament retracts during travel moves, a little extra may come out, leaving blobs on the top layers. Try calibrating your retraction distance and speed to minimize oozing. Another potential cause is inadequate cooling settings. Make sure your printer's cooling fan is working properly, and consider increasing the fan speed for the top layers.
In addition, we highly recommend using the printing settings provided by our Team for the most popular FDM slicers - Cura, Bambu Lab, Simplify3D, Slic3r, and PrusaSlicer - which can be found on the model page in the "Printing Details" tab: www.gambody.com/3d-models/star-destroyer.
To help us further diagnose the problem and provide more specific advice, could you provide some additional information? Knowing your 3D printer model and seeing pictures of the affected areas, including part names, would be very helpful. Feel free to send this information to our Support Team at support@gambody.com. We're here to help you get a flawless Star Destroyer print!
What is the mass of this smaller 47cm destroyer please?
Thanks for asking!
The smaller version you're referring to is the DLP/SLA version of the Star Destroyer model, which comes in a 1:3400 scale. For reference, one of our customers, Robert Hampton, printed the Star Destroyer model in the recommended scale using 3 kilograms of resin. Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/groups/183216945475583 and check out Robert Hampton's impressive print here: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1819669631830298/.
While the exact final mass of the model wasn't specified, it's important to note that during printing, some resin can be lost due to factors like evaporation of solvents or residual material left in the vat. The exact percentage of weight loss can vary depending on the resin type and printing settings, so the final mass of the model is just an approximation based on the amount of resin used. We estimate that the final mass of the model would likely be around 2.7-2.9 kilograms.
We hope this information helps! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions or if there's anything else we can assist you with.
So... actual size hummm. Bold move.
Thanks for leaving the comment and for revealing your interest in the Star Destroyer 3D Printing Model. Going by your feedback, we assume you must be interested in printing the model at a large size. Hence, first, we want to note that the model comes at a suggested default scale which is 1:1700 and 1:3400 for the FFF/FDM and DLP/SLA/SLS versions respectively(calculated from the actual length of the Star Destroyer that is 1600 m). When printed at a default size, the ship model is going to have the next dimensions:
312 mm tall, 575 mm wide, 944 mm deep (FFF/FDM 1.0 version);
156 mm tall, 288 mm wide, 472 mm deep (DLP/SLA 1.0 version).
Also, let us note that the scale change might affect the alteration of some details yet still yield satisfactory results. The main thing that you should pay attention to is the dimensions of the build plate of the 3D printing machine that you’re going to use. Kindly make sure that you scale up the parts the model comprises proportionally, and all the enlarged parts fit the build volume of our printer. Also, in our group, you will be able to observe the quality of some models 3D printed at larger scales, please, follow the link: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583. For any further information, feel free to contact us at support@gambody.com or via Facebook messages! 👍
How much filament does the fdm version require? And is it possible to print it in 50% scale?
What size LED's do you recommend to run through the model? I'm looking at 3mm and 5mm -- will one of those work better?
Hi!
Thank you for your inquiry about LED sizes for the Star Destroyer model! We appreciate your interest in adding LED lighting to enhance the visual appeal of your print. Based on your question, here's what we recommend:
For optimal lighting effect and convenience, we recommend using 3mm LEDs for the Star Destroyer model. These LEDs are smaller in size, making them easier to install inside the model. They also require less power to operate and generate less heat, which is good for the plastic material used in the print.
We also suggest considering the use of fiber optic LED strands, as they provide a powerful illumination effect. If you have the possibility to incorporate fiber optic LEDs, this can create an impressive lighting result.
Ultimately, the choice between 3mm LEDs and fiber optic LEDs depends on your preferences and the desired lighting effect you want to achieve.
If you have any further questions or need more guidance on LED installation, please don't hesitate to contact us. We're here to help you get the most out of your 3D-printing experience. Have fun printing and lighting up your Star Destroyer!
I have many z seam by Printing it..doesnt look good 😢
Hello,
Thank you for your feedback on our Star Destroyer model. We apologize for any inconvenience caused by the visible Z-seams in your print. Achieving a seamless finish can sometimes be challenging and we appreciate your patience and understanding.
If you're experiencing Z-seams in your prints, we recommend experimenting with different print settings such as layer height and retraction settings, you can also choose the location of the seam on the print, select a specific pattern or path for the seam. Additionally, adjusting the position and orientation of the model on the print bed might help minimize the visibility of the Z-seams.
We invite you to check out a Facebook post within our community where another customer has shared their successful print of the same model. You can find it here: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1343333836130549. It may give you some insight and inspiration for achieving better results.
If you have any further questions or need assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us at support@gambody.com. We're here to help you get the best results from our models. Thank you for your support and happy printing!
Im very interested in getting this model, could you advise are the parts orientated ready for printing or will i need to rotate them when I put them in my slicer?
Hello,
Thank you for your interest in the Star Destroyer model! We're glad to hear that you're excited about it. Regarding the parts orientation, we have already taken care of that for you. All the parts are pre-oriented and ready for printing, so you won't need to rotate them when importing into your slicer software.
In addition to the Star Destroyer, we have an exciting offer for Star Wars fans like yourself. We have a bundle deal where you can get both the Star Destroyer and Death Star II models together at a discounted price. This bundle allows you to save some money while expanding your Star Wars collection. If you're interested, feel free to check out the details on our website:
www.gambody.com/3d-models/death-star-ii
Thanks for choosing Gambody!
hi! what program did you used it?
Thanks for your interest!
When it comes to 3D design software, there are various options available, including both paid and free versions. Professionals often use software like ZBrush and Autodesk Maya 3D, which are known for their robust features and capabilities.
However, if you're looking for free alternatives, there are some excellent options available. Blender, for example, is a powerful open-source software that offers a wide range of 3D design features. It's free to use and has a vibrant community that provides support and resources.
Our Team utilizes KeyShot software to meticulously craft and showcase the amazing details of the models we provide. It's a powerful tool that helps us bring these creations to life.
We'd love to have you join our thriving community on Facebook, where you can connect with fellow 3D printing enthusiasts, share your projects, and stay in the loop with our latest releases. Feel free to join us at: facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/.
If you have any questions or need assistance, don't hesitate to contact us.
is easy put ligth in this model?
Hi there!
Absolutely! It's easy to add lighting to the Star Destroyer model! The spaceship is hollow to introduce LED wiring, allowing you to light up the Command Bridge, ion engines, and windows along the hull. There's also a special place inside the command bridge to hide the battery.
Check out some amazing examples of our customers' illuminated Star Destroyer models here:
facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1685816461882283/
facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1447789995684932/
facebook.com/groups/183216945475583/posts/1343333836130549/
For more helpful tips, be sure to check out our blog article "How to Put Up LED Lights in a 3D Printed Model": www.gambody.com/blog/how-to-install-led-lights-in-a-3d-printed-model/.
We can't wait to see your version of the Star Destroyer!
Is the store not available outside the US?
Please, accept our apologies for any inconvenience you may have encountered when trying to access our marketplace. We welcome all the customers without exception to reach out to our Support Team in case of any difficulties. Do contact our representatives via messages on Facebook or email at support@gambody.com and we will gladly help you find a solution.🙂
what is the easiest way to remove the supports from the peg holes?
Well, usually adjusting such printing settings as support density, overhang angle, and "Support Top Distance" parameter in the tab "Support Z Distance" etc. can significantly ease the removal process. The latter parameter sets the distance from the top of the support structure to the surface of the model, so if this parameter is too low, the supports may stick to the model and result in complicated post-processing. So we would suggest that you revise your printing parameters, tweak them a little and run some test prints to see if it helps remove the supports easier. Also, you can learn about practices, tips and tricks used by other hobbyists when dealing with the same situation in our Facebook group “Gambody - 3D Printing Community” (facebook.com/groups/183216945475583). In case the issue persists, please, feel free to contact our Support Team either via messages on Facebook or at support@gambody.com. 👍
i know this is old. but for those reading. You don't print supports in the peg holes. use a support blocker. Will come out fine.