The Simplest Soft Starter!
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- Looking for the simplest soft starter? One you can use with a power inverter, portable power station, or generator that can supply enough operating current, but has trouble supplying inrush current for inductive loads that use motors or transformers, such as refrigerators or other appliances with electric motors. Learn what to use as a simplest soft starter to get your appliance or power tool running! Enjoy the video.
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Very useful video. Thank you for all the time and effort you put into it! Always a thumbs up and looking forward to the next video!
Thanks for watching! I greatly enjoyed yesterday's video!
I subbed to PF for the excellent and valuable info on his videos, now I'm finding out he watches electronicsNmore videos... I will have to subscribe to electronicsNmore(when i finish this comment) for the same useful information as PF does and as shown in this video.
@@JT-lq4yd exactly my thoughts. A great compliment to have Project Farm comment on your video.
Hey it’s project farm lol I watch your vids all the time man
Did you make one ?
Wonderful video. I used NTC thermistors in a commercial application to start high power DC cooling fans in an application that used a switch mode power supply sometimes. Mouser carries a wide assortment of these devices. Two tips on their use:
Avoid the urge to automatically oversize these components. Choose an amperage rating just above your real load (fused correctly, of course).
Secondly, these things get quite hot. Ensure they don't cause thermal damage to your wires but don't actively cool them. Resistance increases when they are cooled. I used a delay-on-make relay to cut the thermistors out of the circuit once the fans had started.
A note on practical use. Once you turn the load on and get it running the thermistor's resistance drops. When you turn the load off the resistance will remain low until the thermistor cools. Switching the load off then immediately back on again before the thermistor cools will likely overload your power supply or inverter. That is part of the reason I used the time delay relay, so that the fans could cycle on and off with the thermistors being cool for each start.
Yes, you cannot cycle on and off quickly. The component needs to cool at least 30 seconds. Thanks for watching!
Love your "schematic"; unorthodox but effective at clearly explaining the role of the grey box. Keep at it!
Man thats all I need? I knew there was a way to make one I spent atleast 3 hours scouring the web, I even went over to chatgpt and asked them boys. I just can't believe no one else made this video!
This is good education. Thank you.
Cool, simple solution. I just ordered parts to build something similar. I'm just going to put a receptacle on the end directly in the box.
Wow this is amazing and thanks for including the link to the data sheet. There are 15 and 20 amp ones as well. Awesome.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
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Very good information! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, and you're welcome! Helpful videos like this are only worthwhile to make if viewers take one minute of their time to share the video link with others.
Great video. I have a project for it already! Three actually. Thanks!!!
I've read through as many of the comments as I could and did not find this subject addressed; apologies if its buried further down the line. I would like to use this directly in my shop on 120V house current where my table saw sometimes trips the 15A breaker. This has been the case ever since I bought the table saw a few years ago and it's something I just deal with. If this could alleviate the inrush current that trips the breaker then, AWESOME!! Really enjoyed the video. Clear, concise and your voice is very professional.
Fantastic! So glad I found you. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Well done and great explanation !
This will work for my 2000W BESTEK Inverter tripping running a 200 watt Fridge when the power is out.
Btw, your explanation at the end about why shouldn't wire them in parallel exactly explains what happened to the person on an RV website that said his setup exploded when he plugged it in.
Simply put. Many thanks.🇬🇧😷
Glad you enjoyed it James! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
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Great video! Thanks for the idea.
Personally, I'm going to use a metal box and using a barrier strip for the connections. Putting these in a plastic box is just asking for trouble.
Very handy device, thanks.
You're welcome Steve! Be sure to share. Thank you
sweet! nice demo
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my video links with many others. Thanks Robin!
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I had my inverter replaced. It ended up being a smaller unit but it has soft start. So great. It could do better then my 4000 watt inverter
Good Stuff from you Sir. Easy and Practical. Think I will build one into a small pig tail extension cord.
Glad you enjoyed the video
Great, thank you.
Good simple solution!!!!
Yes. It's very handy to have around in the event you have an inrush problem. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic tip!!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Excellent idea.
Glad you liked it! Be sure to share the video link. Thank you
great video! thank you.
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Very cool vid, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Please share the link. Thank you
thank you for detail video
You're welcome Rob! Please share the video link with others. Thank you
Very useful. Another great tip eNm! Keep'em coming!
As long as people share, they'll keep coming. 😀 Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore What do you think about these Graphene Module Packs?
Amazing! Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! I am going to make one this weekend. I think using a metal box would dissipate heat better (or would it?).
Good work, I looked for a super cheapie inverter with built-in limiter without success, and settled on a capacitor setup which has been inconsistent as success depended on the particular load. So I'll give this a go.
If you get the right ICL value, it works great. Thanks for watching!
Just used those on a project at work. The common name for the device is a thermistor. Nice video.
Correct. Thanks for watching Steve!
Interesting. Would you couple this with a capacitor for greater effect?
You can find these current limiters in the variable speed, dc, hvac blower motors used in most late model ac systems. I stock them on my service truck because they fail very often. Most techs replace the motors for around $800-1000 I take them apart and replace the limiter for about $200. This is the most common failure of the hvac motors.
Many people allow their air filters to get very dirty, and the reduced airflow causes the winding of the blow motor to run hotter. Thanks for watching!
I knew the minute I seen project Farm comment that this was a good video after watching it I can confirm it's an awesome video thanks a lot appreciate it
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! Instead I used one sl32 10015 and it worked perfectly!! Thanks.
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So, a 1 OHM 20amp Thermistor would work fine ?
I like this idea.it's so helpful to me
Great to hear!
This works great. I made this device exactly like yours. I have an off grid system and my new fridge was tripping my inverter all the time because of the big surge when it starts up. Ever since I installed this running on just the 5 ohms it has not tripped the inverter. Thank you thank you.
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I have the exact same problem with my new 240v fridge....probably going to try & make one of these also.
@@stevej.6674 good day!! how did it go? what thermistor did you buy... i have same problem with my 220v 150 watts fridge..always trips the inverter after it wakes from cycle..
Great information. It would work even better when combined with power factor boost capacitor(s).
Glad you enjoyed the video! Capacitors do come in handy. :-) Be sure to share. Thanks
great trick.
Thanks for watching! Please share the video.
Great video I have a inverter fridge should I mount this on the power to the compressor motor
Cool thing, gonna make it and see
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Ed! No idea why, but your comments always end up in spam. I need to approve them. Weird.
Great information
Glad you liked it
smart man... and cheap too 👍
I just saw your previous response to the same 220V question and I think my thinking was correct (just l got lucky with a tiny bit of self education) but I choose not to go with an "I think" when dealing with A/C. Still interested in you thoughts on the other more complex methods?
I am a firm believer in Occam's razor!
You mention that this is good for inductive loads (motors), but I'm wondering about the ignitor in my portable pellet stove. I have a 1500/3000w inverter and it gets tripped every time I turn on the smoker. Of course, its always the ignitor that causes this. Once burning, the blower fan/CPU draws less than 100w. I'm wondering if a soft starter would help in this situation or if I simply need a larger inverter?
That looks pretty cool🤓 sir.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to share the link.
@@electronicsNmore yes i do sir 😊
Great tip! Have you considered adding another switch position to bypass both in-rush limiters, once startup is complete?
Already done. Each thermistor drops to about 60 milliohms shortly after power is applied. For a 6 A load, the voltage drop for each is about 360 mV.
I made one here in Puerto Rico, all I could find was a 10D-20, the fridge at start up is 8 amp and 1.5 amp running, I have a chinese inverter without any info on it of amp rating. The fridge with this 10D-20 starts up with no problem with one car battery and the small inverter, the battery remains at 12.1 after one hour even without solar, so I would say that this device does curve the inrush current well enough to power your fridge at startup with a cheap inverter.
Eso quiere decir que puedo hacer que el compresor de una nevera grande arranque con una planta pequeña??
@@cafepuya primero tiene que medir el ampere de arranque luego el ampere del motor despues del arranque, si el ampere de arranque es de 11 ampere y luego 6 ampere corriendo, tienes que conseguir un inrush current limiter segun el consumo de arranque y el consumo del motor despues del arranque entonces si con una planta pequeña cual alcanza los amperes del motor despues del arranque, si funciona ya lo e visto muchas veces.
@@natvega1 Es que tengo una Sportsman GEN1000i de 1000W-800w mi nevera dice en el sticker de adentro 6.5A.. A la planta le tengo un kill-a-watt para ver el consumo de watts y cuando está corriendo veo que usa 120w a 230w aveces marca 0.0 como si estuviera apagada.. pero de momento cuando el Compressor arranca.. llega como a los 8Amperes y la planta de apaga. No se si con este truco pueda solucionar eso.
@@cafepuya si, si hace este inrush current limiter tu nevera va funcionar con el sportman, enviame tu email y te envio una photo de como se hace, el limiter cuesta $6 y se encuentra en cualquier tienda de venta electronico
@@cafepuya How do you reduce the starting current of a refrigerator?
a) use a start capacitor, 150uF, for the first 1000ms. b) use an NTC thermistor. c) power resistors, for the first 1000ms (similar effect as NTC) d) voltage transformation to a lower voltage, e.g. from 230V to 200V.
Thank you so much❤
You're welcome! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you and share. Thanks
Nice and very useful , In the uk If you have trouble with 110 volt site transformers tripping circuit breaker's when you plug the in /switch then you can get round this by plugging in your power tool to the trans former first then switch on power tool , then switch on the transformer this can limit inrush to the transformer and prevent the circuit breaker tripping
Interesting workaround! Thanks for watching
I always take an angle grinder camping, thanks!
There are other things that have high inrush, that was just a good example. :-)
@@electronicsNmore excellent example
I'm off grid, and was looking for a solution to stop my window unit AC, (~1300w) from tripping my 5Kw inverter/charge controller. The in-rush is making it impossible to run it, even though I run my water heater on it (resistive vs inductive, as you stated). Hopefully this will work. I may build a few of these, lol. Thank you so much.
RV uses fridge or AC which the inverter can't handle, and the commercial unit for this problem is $300.- this $1 fix is a way out, and thank you for this.
@@Lumbeelegend Did you try yet? Very curious..
We work on 230v mains (but you have answered that) however is this set up suitable for a conventional generator which always stalls when I attempt to switch on my bandsaw?
Thanks for video. exactly what i was looking for. really good info.
i am having trouble selecting which NTC is appropriate for a 300watt inverter which will be powering a 200watt PTC ceramic steamer only. I am thinking i need an NTC that can handle 20 amps .
thanks
If the inverter is only 300w, then 20A is overkill.
Hey thanks for the vid. Do you mind linking a oil filled run capacitor to test? I have a 2000w inverter and on occasion it will alarm when starting a 15a mitre saw or tablesaw. Amazon likes to write both start and run on the capacitors.
Very elegant solution.
But i think most people trying to run big inductive loads off inverters are trying to do emergency repair, so i thought i'd give you a few ideas on how you could limit the inrush current with stuff you can find around your house.
So if you are a regular guy you probably don't have NTC's just laying around, especially in a emergency situation when power is out.
What you probably own or could easily get your hands on is a graphite pencil.
Shave off the ends and connect the wires to it, then wire a lightswitch in parallel to it.
It is a single use and incredibly dangerous but when that little risk is the difference between life and death, i'm pretty sure you won't care.
I used this method to start a really big drill when we had floods in 2014. I used that drill to bust a hole in a floor and stop water into coming into first floor flats and creating damage.
Not really about what you'd do in an emergency situation. It's about having the device on hand now, so in the event you need to power an appliance/power tool using a small generator or power inverter, you'll have a good chance of doing it. Before the pencil trick, I'd pull the oil filled run caps out of my A/C system to get the inrush reduced. Thanks for watching!
MacGyver would be proud!
Where were you ten years ago when I went off grid? lol I just got a new water pump 12 amps that wont start off my Cotek sk1500. If this will work on a capacitor start motor its gonna be a big help!
Great video much appreciated.
Question: I am trying to lower the combat of a compressor with a rated LRA of 122 amp! The reason I need to do that is that its FLA is only 24 amp and I wonder if one could use a 30 AMP breaker instead of the specified 40 amp. Can I use your trick for that purpose?
I greatly appreciate your response!
I was wondering the same thing. I'm guessing that Digikey or Mouser would have monster limiters that could handle the current.
The only thing that I'd do is add a timer relay and a solenoid valve to the unloader line on the compressor. So that when you apply power it keeps the unloader pipe open for a few seconds until the compressor is up to speed. The close the solenoid to build pressure. You'd also want a relay to short the current limiter once the compressor is running. That way the current limiter won't burn up.
easy and logicable
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A thought on using this circuit to power a room air conditioner (I'm thinking 450 W, 115 VAC, 5000 BTU). Considering also what others here have suggested (power factor capacitor, and a timed relay), etc. My thought is that the air conditioner has two motors in it, the fan and the compressor. So should I actually open up the air conditioner and install two separate instances of this DIY soft starter, one on the fan motor, and one on the compressor motor, both with independent inrush limiters, capacitors, and relays? That way the fan and compressor loads are each separately buffered. What I'm worried about is that the fan will run continuously (keeping the inrush current limiter hot and therefore out of action), the compressor will turn off, then on again, and the inrush current limiter will not be active. Having two separate soft starters would seem to solve that problem.
Thank you for this video. I have however a 5.8 full load ampere pump, and 220v hot wire. Will the same limiter suits my equipment? Appreciate your advice.
There's a link in the video description area to a calculator.
Can i use this with an air-conditioning non inverter, will this soft start the compressor every time it kicks on?
Thanks great stuff! Now,do you have a box for a 240v soft start, for a 4 ton ac?
I would try using a hard start kit for your AC condensing unit.
Hi!! Great video. does it matter the type of inverter you have? be it a pure sinewave or modified sinewave?
I have a 3000w (6000w peak) modifed sinewave and I would like to use it to power a fridge in my camper. I read online that fridge motors being reactive loads do not like the modified sinewave, could this solve the problem? or it wouldnt be needed as 3000w is more than enough for the small 150w fridge?
lastly what is the likely damage in using a modifed sinewave on a fridge.
many thanks for the answer
The inverter generator shown years back on my channel, a popular video, used a 1000W mod sine inverter. I powered my refrigerator on and off for 5 years with no problem. Sine wave is best, but more for sensitive electronics/devices. Thanks for watching! Be sure to share the video link with others. The tip works on both. A load way less than the rating of the inverter, should not require what I show.
I just found this video this morning, already watched it two or three times and copied the adderess so I could share it with my buddy down in Louisiana, any way I'm wondering if you could do one or at least answer the question about a single phase 10 Hp motor that keeps throwing my inverter into safe mode. I've got an 18K inverter that drives the motor, but it still needs a soft start, Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
I added a normally-closed, momentary-action shorting switch across the NTC on my table saw. I labeled the new switch "soft start" and "run" and mounted it next next to the on-off switch. When starting on utility power where soft-start isn't needed, I simply turn on the power switch and the NTC isn't in the circuit, being shorted by "start" switch. When starting on battery/inverter power, I first activate the "start" switch, putting the NTC in the circuit before turning on the power switch. As soon as the saw comes up to speed I release the "start" switch back to "run", again shorting the NTC. This allows the NTC to begin cooling while the motor is running and provides for more frequent starts. I wonder if it might also increase the life of the NTC by significantly reducing the time it is in use?
Is this the reason for shorting one of the thyristors in his circuit, he never says why he put the switch in, it must be like you explain it to allow for cooling to provide more frequent starts, because why not just leave them in series without a switch to give you 10 ohm resistance a 50 volt drop every time you start it, strange he never explains that.
Great video, I have 2000 watt Honda generator with max output of 13 amp.
when I try to power my 8k btu ac on its trip.
Will your device work for it.
Great video! Very informative and a simple solution to many problems. I have been thinking about rigging up a couple of flexvolt batteries to power 110v 1/2 router but was worried about the inrush current damaging the batteries with arcing during switching on and off, would this not only soft start but soft stop? If thats a thing?
No soft stop.
Nice
Thanks Jess!
If you’re near a Home Depot, you can setup an excellent box cheap. Get a 2 gang square metal box, a toggle switch, a duplex outlet, and a square box cover with toggle/duplex holes. Sleek and secure!
Hello. Great video! I would like to build a similar soft start for a miter saw. I would like to build it for 25 amps. Would this work? Ametherm SL32 1R030 (Pack of 2) NTC Thermistor, SG379 HVAC, Inrush Current Limiter 1 Ohm Ohm ±20% 1.18" (30mm), or what do you recommend? Thank you sooooo much!
Would I put the thermistors on both L1 and L2 for a 240V submersible 1.5HP 4" pump? Normal amperage on both legs is 11.5 A, so am thinking that I'd be able to mimic exactly what you have, but put 2 on each leg. Is that correct?
Cool !!!
Glad you think so Roger!
Quick question; I am thinking about doing this for a dust collector (basically a giant vacuum). It pulls 35-50A on the inrush, and settles down to around 8-10A at running load. Would something like this work to reduce that massive inrush current to prevent overloading a circuit breaker? Also, when you mention sizing the inrush limiter, is that for the inrush load or the running load?
If you use the correct resistance value and current rating, yes. The size is matched to the operating current.
@@electronicsNmore Thank you very much - appreciate the response! Subscribed!
Hello, from Catalonia!
Are the same values for 230 volts?
Thanks!
Hi! These are rated for 220v use, you can try the same resistance value, or double it. Thanks for watching!
Nice idea! I am going to try this.
Question: What is the difference between these in rush limiters and a resistor, in this case like a 5 ohm, 100watt resister?
I am using a resistor in series for a few seconds between a battery bank and an inverter prior to hooking up the last cable to the inverter to prevent the spark I would incur due to the in rush current which is caused by the charging up of the internal capacitors of the inverter.
I know one is a DC circuit and one an AC circuit so that is one difference. I don't know if this the reason for these in rush current limiters vs just a resistor. Do they both work the same?
What does the 15% designation mean in the specifications of the limiter? I see there are other limiters with different specs such as one rated for 20 amps, 1 ohm resistance and 20%?
I want to start an electric motor that after startup will draw 6 amps but, as you know, it draws about 3x that on startup. Will your idea work for me and, if so, what size in rush limiter should I be looking at. Thanks so much.
Very nice 👍🏿, can you please make one for air conditioner compressor, because if air conditioner doesn't start and continue to work immediately, than the elements will get hot fast and there will be no soft start for the compressor.
Amazing solution. Thanks. Questions 1) Why did you install that switch? Why not always have the two SG333 in the circuit? 2) Will this harm non-inductive loads such as computer devices, TV, or cell phones powered by the inverter thru that soft starter end female plug?
The switch allows me to choose between two levels of starting resistance. No reason to use what's shown for non-inductive loads. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore Why do you want two levels of starting resistance though, Why not just always use both in series to make 10 ohms and always have the lowest the inrush current making it easier on the inverter and the motor.
This is a useful video for a quick and cheap soft starter for preventing inrush currents in devices. However, you should design an updated version of the circuit. While this design works, and works well, there is one fatal flaw. If you unplug the load and plug it back in or switch the load on and off it draws the same inrush current we are trying to prevent.
This method isn't recommended for rapid switching ON/OFF of appliances/devices.
eNm- could you also post a link to the schematics for your projects in the description? Saves pause-&-scrawl process. Thanks a always
Schematics/diagrams that are considered "simple", are only shown in the video. More complex circuits shown on my channel have links. Thanks for watching!
Would a sizable capacitor, or two for high and low, in the box - instead - be able to handle the initial starting surge of equipment? I've been an antique table-mounted grinder (still have it) that had a large capacitor wired in with it, but it was confusing as to where it was wired in at - so I couldn't figure out where this large old capacitor goes. But I imagine it is for the same purpose.
Yes. I've used oil filled run capacitors in series with the load. To get the same level of resistance, you'd need (5) 100uF oil filled run capacitors in parallel. You can experiment using 200-300uF. Thanks for watching! be sure to share the video link with others.
@@electronicsNmore So it's a size issue that you're avoiding it seems. I just looked up those caps, and they seem huge. You may be on to the better formula - probably would have been good to cover why this was better than caps in the video, but it's an excellent video nonetheless. Thank you for creating it. I may order the parts in about a month.
Can I use this in a 220 volt electricity? I wanna make one and use it overseas,and also can I put 3 limiter in series to make amps higher?Thanks!
Placing in series INCREASES the level of resistance, not the current handling capacity. Yes, should work fine for 220V. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I would like to make one of these to help power on a window AC unit with a 12v inverter. Forgive my ignorance but is is necessary to use a switch to use the two limiters? Would it be a bad thing or would certain items not work if you were to always leave the two limiters connected at all times? Thank you!
I was wondering the same & wish you got an answer.
I see that amazon has some 25A limiters for around $7. Are these overkill and will not work? Should I find 15amp ones instead for a window AC?
I would like to use an inrush limiter like this for my hydropneumatic pump that has a cycle time of aprox. 20 seconds. How quickly do these NTC thermistors warm up and cool down? Something tells me that this elegant solution wouldn't work for a load that cycles 20 seconds on and 20 seconds off?
Thx for the video. I have a question.
Let's say I wanted to power my refridgerator with your inverter, how much power will those two buggers dissipate in heat? And also could you bypass them when the fridge have started or are they needed every time the compressor starts?
You need to choose the correct size ICL for the load. They can be bypassed if desired after start-up. Thanks for watching!
www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/selecting-an-inrush-current-limiter.html
fantastic. I am sure more will see this video. ;) does this have a technical name?
Glad you liked it. More will only see it, if my viewers take the time to share the links. No technical name that I'm aware of. Thanks for watching!
If I build one for use with a small Residential refrigerator (with compressor) that will run 24/7off an inverter--will I need to add a capacitor somewhere? If yes, where would I place it if it had to be soldered. Also, is the same build applicable to a 30A unit if I buy 2 X 10 Ohm resistors?
Could something like this work for a well pump?
Loved the video! Thank you! So what you really have to do is break the Hot line and add the components, switch and box. The other lines can stay intact.
Yes. Only add to the hot AC line.
Awesome work. Commercially available softstarters for window AC units cost around $300. Can this be used to turn on a small fridge or window AC with a generator or inverter? Thanks for this video!
If you size the inrush limiter properly, it can help you start up the fridge/AC. If you don't size it correctly, then the compressor may not start up.
Thanks alot
@@electronicsNmore - is there a size limit to build this device? Is there a cutoff on scaling it up? Searching for a Soft Starter for 10HP AC Motor. Any feedback?
Thanks for posting this video. I have a 1000w max generator and I tried your soft starter with my medium sized refrigerator (2.2 amp). The overload light still comes on and the engine shuts down when my fridge compressor comes on. Any suggestions? Should I add a third thermistor? Thanks again!
Try adding a hard start kit to the refrigerator.
@@electronicsNmore will do, thanks
I would like to make one of these for an off grid cabin I have. It has a fairly new Best Buy/Insigina 9.9 cu ft fridge/freezer that lists power consumption of 160W at 1.4A. I have a 12v 2000W inverter connected to 2 banks of GC2 6V batteries in series, so 2 pairs of 6V's on a battery switch so I can switch from bank 1, 2, or tie both together. You'd think that would be enough to start the fridge under any circumstances, but it doesn't. When one bank gets on the low side but still far from the end of its cycle, the fridge starting up will trip the low power alarm on the inverter and it won't reset itself (all power cables are correctly sized, probably overly large). If I flip the battery switch briefly to the other bank then back again, the inverter will be happy, quit beeping and the fridge will run until it shuts off, and the cycle repeats. Question is - do you think the setup in your video would be sufficient for this fridge, or should I be re-sizing the components and if so how do I know what size?
I built this and tried it out but it didn't seem to solve the problem and the inverter still trips to under voltage. The fridge (1.4 running amps) is the only thing I'm using this for. Should I be using smaller inrush current limiter like a 5D-11 rated for 4A continuous?
hi , thanks for the great explanation. still one point : if we power Off and quickly try to power on the appliance, a good chance the thermal resistor still hot and thus didn't present high resistance so It will not work. I ve not tested it myself but I am curious if someone have experienced that exact very scenario I am describing here
You cannot power on and off quickly. You need to wait at least 30 seconds.
can you attach a heat sink directly to it? or does it need to get hot to work and a heat sink would prevent it from working correctly
Very informative video, this is the kind of video I was looking for a while, but I do have some questions, does this system works with induction motors ?, and if the resistance is very low after the resistor heats up, does it mean if the load is powered up in short interval and the resistor resistance value is still low it can experience inrush current again ?
Good question. I am interested in this for reducing the inrush current to a small ac compressor but once the ac is 'running' it will cycle the compressor as needed. It would depend on if the thermistors can cool all the way off before the next compressor start. It also seems possible that you run into an issue of your normal 'running' current not creating enough heat in the thermistor to maintain its lowest resistance value consistently, causing the current in the actual load device to fluctuate as the thermistor 'hunts'. Really interested to know how this works on a ~5000btu ac.
@@Vigo327 Did you ever try it? I'm wanting the exact same application, 5000 BTU A/C that is rated 450W @ 115 VAC.
@@AlanCanon2222 I have not! I have tabs open in my phone about calculating the value of the thermistor, etc, but never did do it. I have been working on an off-grid electrical system for my home and can say that my 5000btu unit in the home actually is down around 400w with the compressor running and fan on high. The fan itself is 60w on high, so compressor load on my unit is ~340w. I have not accurately captured the compressor 'inrush current' yet, though. Good luck with your project and i hope whoever tries it first will post their result. 👍
Couple of McQuestions: Once the threshold temperature is reached and the resistance drops does it hold that resistance as long as the load is still powered up? In other words does it stay latched in it's low resistance state once it's activated even when the current demand drops once the inductive load has started? I ask this because once the resistance is triggered low then the voltage drop across the Inrush Limiter will fall too so it would naturally cool down.
Yes. As long as the load is applied, the low level of resistance will remain. The ICL will be fairly hot, but it's normal. You cannot rapidly cycle loads on and off using the ICL. You must wait 30 secs to 1 minute. Thanks for watching!
flash001USA
Google has the answer.
You can add a temperature sensing circuit to bypass the inrush limiter once it heats up.
@Andrew Ferg Not necessary because the resistance drops to a very low level. Thanks for watching!
@@andrewferg8737 Not a bad idea. Inrush limiters do wear out. In fact, they are often the only part that wears out on pool chlorinator control boards.
Should the amp rating of the current limiter be chosen based on the start current or the running current? My freezer uses 10 amps to start but runs at 1 amp. Thanks.
www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/selecting-an-inrush-current-limiter.html
I have a question about this. As I’ve told you already, I have already copied this several times only with the slight modification of a heat sink to dissipate the heat - however I recently tried something new with the leftover thermistors I had left.
I tried to do it with a 12v dc plug on the portable air compressor I keep in our car. Once on the side of the highway when we popped a tire, I turned it on, then off, then on again really quickly by accident - and it blew a fuse. Ever since then I figured one day I would install these thermistors on it and just now when I did a test run before soldering - nothing. It wouldn’t turn on. Is it just not enough coming through to get that motor spinning??
Probably. At 12 volts a 5 ohm thermistor would limit the total initial power draw to about 30 watts. That may be below it's trigger point.
@Sara Morgan that’s an interesting point and one I hadn’t thought or but we’re using it in a non traditional way. We’re using it as an inrush current limiter. By the time the heat sink has a chance to dissipate any heat the current has long passed.
Cool
Glad you liked it! Be sure to share the video link with others. Thank you
So the Limiters are 12 amps each,... Does that mean if you only need to start a smaller appliance of under 12 amps, you would just switch your box to "Low" to use just one ?... Could you not use a switch to have it wired to use both Limiters all the time ?
Thanks for the video.