Very helpful thank you! Instead of looping it I bought a 90 degree molded hose AAP part # 80401 and trimmed to fit. Will see..... Going to get another one and carry it with me. Thanks again you saved me a lot of money and work.
Thanks for the video. Mine busted the 1/2" underbody line after an unexpected hard freeze and not enough antifreeze in the system. I want to use a standard brass compression coupling after cutting out the short damaged section to repair. If it's too long I'll use heater hose and a couple clamps instead of replacing the entire assembly as Mopar says 🙄. I don't haul passengers back there either and would rather have all the heated water directed through the front core. I may use this method later.
Love the video. Working on a 2005 Town and Country radiator swap (I always go for CSF over factory, many factory Honda truck radiators suffer from the strawberry milkshake of death). I knew the rad was leaking, did my first bottle of flush, looked bad. Another water flush and still bad, so on to bottle #2 of the flush, then a water flush and I guess I removed enough rust to spring a leak on one of those rear heater core metal lines behind the passenger seat. I'm gonna gather the price to do it the right way for the customer but for now looks like I'm going to go the quick route. Not even sure if Autozone even carries heater line anymore, last time I needed some 3/8 they could only sell me fuel line, just like how you can't find vacuum line anymore. It is for sure 5/8"? I haven't pulled anything except the drain plug off as of yet. Thanks again for your video, I'll like and subscribe for more content.
Hello from Lake Hopatcong NJ. If this was a home plumbing issue, I would simply cap off the hose at both sides. Why does it need to flow to the other side?
Plumber here, I agree with this point. Terminate the unused section as close as possible to the water pump. All that stagnant water will dirty up the coolant. It all needs to circulate.
Ok! I found the up pipe to connect the destination of the 4ft piece. Help that it was not snowing blizzard in the dark. LOL! It was to left of the box, behind another pipe. Not consumer friendly by any means. Demolition was a knuckle buster, and special tools would have been appreciated, like a right angle vise grips for hose clamps. Hoses clamps like those should be banished from the planet. A small vise grips and utility razor knife with quick change blades for it takes more than one getting dull cutting thru rubber against the metal pipes. My hands are busted up already, being a carpenter, so I go bare handed, still hard to manage tools in such tight places. Most people would wear gloves, making it even harder. Most people should buy the hose and some screw type hose clamps and take them to a friendly professional mechanic!
I found your clip very helpful. However it would have been more helpful if you had shown how to remove the old gear which seems to be the hardest part. So far. My hoses are cut and ready to install and I also wondered why the big loop but I think it also makes it more flexible at the end. You show its destination behind that doodad you point at and underneath it but for mine it goes behind a 6 inch square box. Underneath the doodad. My vehicle is a 2006 Grand Caravan SXT. It is obviously different. I will try to send some photos.
Glad it was helpful. It is tough to get good video shots of everything but in future videos I will try to show more components and explain better. Thanks for feedback
I haven't driven my SXT in a couple days, but let it idle a couple times. Water level is normal with radiator cap open or closed. I have the new hoses hooked up exactly like you show, in fact, there is no where else for them to go. No heat. Temp gauge is two ticks higher on the dial, it's exactly at 9pm. Was always at 7pm before. Though it's running hotter, still no heat! With heater on, or off, no difference. Tonight I let it run ten minutes before I drove it about 15 miles. No change at all. I will have to wear gloves, as it is still freezing here in ARK. There is plenty of antifreeze in it, and there is no leak At least it gets me where I am going, and does not throw water everywhere. Maybe something is wrong with the heater core?.
The heater core could possibly be blocked by something... Or a crimp in the line or another reason that the hot coolant is not reaching the core! You said that the hose makes a hard turn...is the hose bent too much and crimped maybe? This guy mentions the crimp issue at the very last 30 seconds or so... and Idk if any of this may help you or anyone else... But I am burned out myself trying to figure out an issue I am having with my heater blower not working past the LOWEST SETTING!!!!
Well I can't find a way to send you a photo. But on my van the return of that long piece go straight down like yours but then takes a hard right turn into its spout right behind a square box
I think you’re referring to the steel line that runs to the water pump. Hard to tell without pictures. The steel line runs down then a 90 degree turn to the waterpump
I am very glad I was able to find this video. I was going to take it to the mechanic but I will try to do this my self. Also do I have to remove the original or can I just cut out the part I need to fit the hose? Thanks again for the help.
You do not need to remove the old parts. You can cut away whatever you need to. Just be careful not to kink the new hose and when you bleed air out of the system make sure the new hoses are lower than the top of the radiator cap so all the air gets out. Otherwise with air in the system you may not have heat.
@@fixitman8028 I appreciate the advice. My cousin and I are going to try it. We are fairly sure we can handle it. My van is just a work van and only need it for a year till I can buy a new one. $800 winter beater I got 25 years ago.
Thank you n I did this and have no heat ? Any idea why? Its full of coolant and still no heat. Worked perfectly long kept coolant in it with leak in rear
Most likely there is air in the system. Best way to bleed the air out is with engine cold, remove radiator cap. Jack up the front end of the vehicle , this places the heater core lower than the top of the radiator. Air will go to the highest place in the system. Run the vehicle to operating temperature so the coolant is flowing into the radiator. Do this for several minutes until you feel heat inside the vehicle. With the engine still running install the radiator cap then turn off the engine. One other thing to check is make sure the hoses to the heater core are lower than the heater core. Otherwise air will get trapped in the hoses. Hope that helps
Very helpful. Ours is leaking on the back on our 07 dodge grand caravan. In front of the back right wheel. Also did you ever remove the cowl intake for the air. The piece that the windshield washer nozzles sit on? If so there is a type of foam padding or something that is drooping down. Any idea on how to fix this because it could be a fire hazard? Thanks!
I did a video on caravan wiper cowl removal if that will help. I also have insulation hanging down and I used zip ties to help hold it up. I poked a hole in the insulation put the zip tie through and attached to the metal firewall. Hope that helps
I have a 2010 Chrysler t&c Lx 3.3 Flex. My question is how do I know if I have a rear heater core I think I may only have the front core. I am trying to complete a bypass but I can’t find the rear core lines under the hood
If there are no 3/8” lines going to the rear of the vehicle. They would be running under the vehicle, you do not have a rear heater core. You can also look at the forward firewall for only two lines instead of 4 coming out of the front heater core
How did you find this diagram? Do you have be a subscriber to Mitchell or something? Be nice to have a resource on demand like that. Thanks for the video. I have a 13 van ....... my rear heater core is either clogged or something's wrong back there. Considering whether or not to bypass or fix....... maybe just needs a flush.. but what about the document? Thanks
Yes I have a subscription to alldata and have also used Mitchel’s e-auto repair. I believe that diagram was available in either subscription. Alldata is slightly less expensive. Both good products.
I believe you would only need 6-8 inches. Coolant hose is fairly inexpensive. I would buy 2-3 feet and cut using trail and error. Take a measurement first and go from there. Good luck
Could you put say 6"sections of your new heater hose just after the Y splits on the leg going to the rear and cap em both off? OR .....connect them input directly to the output thereby bypassing the rear altogether
I am not sure what you are asking but will try to explain. I could not use a short section of hose because a shorter hose would kink and possibly restrict flow of antifreeze. You also must ensure one hose is connected to the engine block thermostat housing and the other hose to the water pump inlet line. I hope that helps. I did that repair a least two years ago and everything still works great. Plenty of heat during winter. Older minivans only had one heater core
@@fixitman8028 Glad to hear it worked out. I was wondering about this very topic a couple weeks ago. Basically what I meant is the main coolant feed and return split to supply each of 2 heater cores. Leave the front one alone (in my case) ...... but on the split off that feeds the rear just take the hose and connect one end to the feed and one end to the return there by cutting out the rear heater core ...... but still have flow through what the car thinks is the rear (now just a hose). OR............ think of that same config but cut the hoses off 6 inches past the split and just cap em off. The coolant wouldn't flow through the split to the rear at all because they're capped ....... yet the front would continue to flow like normal. Not sure if that would cause any issues or pressure build up because I haven't truly studied the system. I like you don't need the rear and right now it's causing more of a headache than any utility it provides. I could try and theoretically flush it or replace the rear core but I'm not trying to remove all that trim and spend hours fixing something I never use anyway. BUT at the same time, a clogged heater core can't be ignored. I have to address it one way or another. And your alternative sounds to me like a great solution for me. I'm in a 13 T&C. Thanks for the information and the video
I think your suggestion is better than my repair. Yes I would think either plugging the rear lines or just bypassing to each other will work fine. Not sure why I did not try that but I think your solution is a easier and probably better. Good luck. I think it would work well.
@@fixitman8028 it did work. I found a L shaped hose on Amazon. So far so good.. And i was at my uncles yesterday he has a 2002 I was talking to him about it and he said he don't have the rear heat so I popped his hood and that's all they have is a L shaped hose there.
I don’t recommend it but if you wanted too just connect pipe between both hoses at firewall. Again not recommended because now you have no heat available to defrost windows
Very helpful thank you! Instead of looping it I bought a 90 degree molded hose AAP part # 80401 and trimmed to fit. Will see..... Going to get another one and carry it with me. Thanks again you saved me a lot of money and work.
Always glad to help
Where is vacuumed hose to heater
Thanks for the video. Mine busted the 1/2" underbody line after an unexpected hard freeze and not enough antifreeze in the system. I want to use a standard brass compression coupling after cutting out the short damaged section to repair. If it's too long I'll use heater hose and a couple clamps instead of replacing the entire assembly as Mopar says 🙄. I don't haul passengers back there either and would rather have all the heated water directed through the front core. I may use this method later.
Thanks for the feedback. I did that repair years ago and still have the van and works well. Hope it works for you
Thanks for the video I just looped my top line over the valve cover and back with an insulator so everything is fine.
I am just going to use a 5/8" brass barb elbow on the top to avoid doing that long run. Thanks for the info!
I like that idea. Sounds like a much better option than what I did. My setup is still working and I believe it’s been at least 2 years
Awesome video
Thank you for the kind response. Hope it works for you. Still working for me after several years
Love the video. Working on a 2005 Town and Country radiator swap (I always go for CSF over factory, many factory Honda truck radiators suffer from the strawberry milkshake of death). I knew the rad was leaking, did my first bottle of flush, looked bad. Another water flush and still bad, so on to bottle #2 of the flush, then a water flush and I guess I removed enough rust to spring a leak on one of those rear heater core metal lines behind the passenger seat.
I'm gonna gather the price to do it the right way for the customer but for now looks like I'm going to go the quick route. Not even sure if Autozone even carries heater line anymore, last time I needed some 3/8 they could only sell me fuel line, just like how you can't find vacuum line anymore. It is for sure 5/8"? I haven't pulled anything except the drain plug off as of yet.
Thanks again for your video, I'll like and subscribe for more content.
Yes everything was 5/8 line. Thank you for commenting
this thing just happend to today thank you i will try this method
Sorry Thor late response but hope all went well. I did this repair years ago and still works well. Hope it works for you
Thank you it did work for me 🙏
Hello from Lake Hopatcong NJ. If this was a home plumbing issue, I would simply cap off the hose at both sides. Why does it need to flow to the other side?
Interesting question. Maybe constant pressure in the line/hoses flowing toward the rear heater core wouldn't be such a good thing?
Plumber here, I agree with this point. Terminate the unused section as close as possible to the water pump. All that stagnant water will dirty up the coolant. It all needs to circulate.
Awesome job
Thank you!
Thank you for the video!
Glad it may have helped. Still driving it everyday it’s February 1 st and heat works well
Ok! I found the up pipe to connect the destination of the 4ft piece. Help that it was not snowing blizzard in the dark. LOL! It was to left of the box, behind another pipe. Not consumer friendly by any means. Demolition was a knuckle buster, and special tools would have been appreciated, like a right angle vise grips for hose clamps. Hoses clamps like those should be banished from the planet. A small vise grips and utility razor knife with quick change blades for it takes more than one getting dull cutting thru rubber against the metal pipes. My hands are busted up already, being a carpenter, so I go bare handed, still hard to manage tools in such tight places. Most people would wear gloves, making it even harder. Most people should buy the hose and some screw type hose clamps and take them to a friendly professional mechanic!
I found your clip very helpful. However it would have been more helpful if you had shown how to remove the old gear which seems to be the hardest part. So far. My hoses are cut and ready to install and I also wondered why the big loop but I think it also makes it more flexible at the end. You show its destination behind that doodad you point at and underneath it but for mine it goes behind a 6 inch square box. Underneath the doodad. My vehicle is a 2006 Grand Caravan SXT. It is obviously different. I will try to send some photos.
Glad it was helpful. It is tough to get good video shots of everything but in future videos I will try to show more components and explain better. Thanks for feedback
My 2006 SXT was same configuration as you showed.
I haven't driven my SXT in a couple days, but let it idle a couple times. Water level is normal with radiator cap open or closed. I have the new hoses hooked up exactly like you show, in fact, there is no where else for them to go. No heat. Temp gauge is two ticks higher on the dial, it's exactly at 9pm. Was always at 7pm before. Though it's running hotter, still no heat! With heater on, or off, no difference. Tonight I let it run ten minutes before I drove it about 15 miles. No change at all. I will have to wear gloves, as it is still freezing here in ARK. There is plenty of antifreeze in it, and there is no leak At least it gets me where I am going, and does not throw water everywhere. Maybe something is wrong with the heater core?.
The heater core could possibly be blocked by something... Or a crimp in the line or another reason that the hot coolant is not reaching the core! You said that the hose makes a hard turn...is the hose bent too much and crimped maybe? This guy mentions the crimp issue at the very last 30 seconds or so... and Idk if any of this may help you or anyone else... But I am burned out myself trying to figure out an issue I am having with my heater blower not working past the LOWEST SETTING!!!!
@@BuffaloEskate yes I am going to flush it tomorrow hopefully that will help
Couldn't it have been done with less hose?
You could but I did not want to kink the line and possibly restrict coolant flow. But yes I may have been successful with less hose.
Well I can't find a way to send you a photo. But on my van the return of that long piece go straight down like yours but then takes a hard right turn into its spout right behind a square box
I think you’re referring to the steel line that runs to the water pump. Hard to tell without pictures. The steel line runs down then a 90 degree turn to the waterpump
@@fixitman8028 I figured it out. With your help.
My eyes were in the wrong place.
I am very glad I was able to find this video. I was going to take it to the mechanic but I will try to do this my self. Also do I have to remove the original or can I just cut out the part I need to fit the hose? Thanks again for the help.
You do not need to remove the old parts. You can cut away whatever you need to. Just be careful not to kink the new hose and when you bleed air out of the system make sure the new hoses are lower than the top of the radiator cap so all the air gets out. Otherwise with air in the system you may not have heat.
@@fixitman8028 I appreciate the advice. My cousin and I are going to try it. We are fairly sure we can handle it. My van is just a work van and only need it for a year till I can buy a new one.
$800 winter beater I got 25 years ago.
@@fixitman8028 probably just cap it and have my mechanic do a flush on the system. Not gonna lie I have been using water for coolant.
Thank you n I did this and have no heat ? Any idea why? Its full of coolant and still no heat. Worked perfectly long kept coolant in it with leak in rear
Most likely there is air in the system. Best way to bleed the air out is with engine cold, remove radiator cap. Jack up the front end of the vehicle , this places the heater core lower than the top of the radiator. Air will go to the highest place in the system. Run the vehicle to operating temperature so the coolant is flowing into the radiator. Do this for several minutes until you feel heat inside the vehicle. With the engine still running install the radiator cap then turn off the engine. One other thing to check is make sure the hoses to the heater core are lower than the heater core. Otherwise air will get trapped in the hoses. Hope that helps
It helped hot heat thank you very much I appreciate it
Is there only 2 hoses going back to to rear core?
Ok I think I get it now
Yes. The other two lines next to it under the vehicle are air conditioning lines
@@fixitman8028 ya I was wonder about that, good thing I didnt mess with those .
Very helpful. Ours is leaking on the back on our 07 dodge grand caravan. In front of the back right wheel. Also did you ever remove the cowl intake for the air. The piece that the windshield washer nozzles sit on? If so there is a type of foam padding or something that is drooping down. Any idea on how to fix this because it could be a fire hazard? Thanks!
I did a video on caravan wiper cowl removal if that will help. I also have insulation hanging down and I used zip ties to help hold it up. I poked a hole in the insulation put the zip tie through and attached to the metal firewall. Hope that helps
There is a vacuumed line going to heater
*Nice fix! Good job on the video showing manual and details!* #WorldsOkayestFarmer
Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2010 Chrysler t&c Lx 3.3 Flex. My question is how do I know if I have a rear heater core I think I may only have the front core. I am trying to complete a bypass but I can’t find the rear core lines under the hood
If there are no 3/8” lines going to the rear of the vehicle. They would be running under the vehicle, you do not have a rear heater core. You can also look at the forward firewall for only two lines instead of 4 coming out of the front heater core
Is there is a Y adapter at the end of the hose? Becuse e the old one is pouring out
How did you find this diagram? Do you have be a subscriber to Mitchell or something? Be nice to have a resource on demand like that. Thanks for the video. I have a 13 van ....... my rear heater core is either clogged or something's wrong back there. Considering whether or not to bypass or fix....... maybe just needs a flush.. but what about the document? Thanks
Yes I have a subscription to alldata and have also used Mitchel’s e-auto repair. I believe that diagram was available in either subscription. Alldata is slightly less expensive. Both good products.
If I am able to get a 90 degree coolant line hose how ling should I get? 2 feet?
I believe you would only need 6-8 inches. Coolant hose is fairly inexpensive. I would buy 2-3 feet and cut using trail and error. Take a measurement first and go from there. Good luck
How do I bypass both heater cores!!
Please help me
Could you put say 6"sections of your new heater hose just after the Y splits on the leg going to the rear and cap em both off? OR .....connect them input directly to the output thereby bypassing the rear altogether
I am not sure what you are asking but will try to explain. I could not use a short section of hose because a shorter hose would kink and possibly restrict flow of antifreeze. You also must ensure one hose is connected to the engine block thermostat housing and the other hose to the water pump inlet line. I hope that helps. I did that repair a least two years ago and everything still works great. Plenty of heat during winter. Older minivans only had one heater core
@@fixitman8028 Glad to hear it worked out. I was wondering about this very topic a couple weeks ago. Basically what I meant is the main coolant feed and return split to supply each of 2 heater cores. Leave the front one alone (in my case) ...... but on the split off that feeds the rear just take the hose and connect one end to the feed and one end to the return there by cutting out the rear heater core ...... but still have flow through what the car thinks is the rear (now just a hose). OR............ think of that same config but cut the hoses off 6 inches past the split and just cap em off. The coolant wouldn't flow through the split to the rear at all because they're capped ....... yet the front would continue to flow like normal. Not sure if that would cause any issues or pressure build up because I haven't truly studied the system. I like you don't need the rear and right now it's causing more of a headache than any utility it provides. I could try and theoretically flush it or replace the rear core but I'm not trying to remove all that trim and spend hours fixing something I never use anyway. BUT at the same time, a clogged heater core can't be ignored. I have to address it one way or another. And your alternative sounds to me like a great solution for me. I'm in a 13 T&C. Thanks for the information and the video
I think your suggestion is better than my repair. Yes I would think either plugging the rear lines or just bypassing to each other will work fine. Not sure why I did not try that but I think your solution is a easier and probably better. Good luck. I think it would work well.
It’s very hard to see the pipe you are connecting the hose to
Instead of using the long curled up hose could I use a L shaped hose going down would that still work
I think I tried that but the hose started to kink. You can try it just watch out you don’t restrict the flow by kinking the hose.
@@fixitman8028 it did work. I found a L shaped hose on Amazon. So far so good.. And i was at my uncles yesterday he has a 2002 I was talking to him about it and he said he don't have the rear heat so I popped his hood and that's all they have is a L shaped hose there.
@@rubens6931 how long should I get on the L shape or 90 degree hose?
I don’t recommend it but if you wanted too just connect pipe between both hoses at firewall. Again not recommended because now you have no heat available to defrost windows