Good idea splitting the tie plates on the bridge Erik for this application on your bridge. Looking forward to seeing more videos of your backyard railroad build and having you on Back on Track. Best wishes. Steve.
I see where you’ve built your railroad as economically as possible, such as using tie plates on every other tie. Also, every other tie is shorter (except on the bridge). So, I would like to see a video showing *all* the ways you’ve got creative so as to save you a little bit of money.
All said and done, I don’t think we found many ways to cut corners to save on cost. We tried in the beginning but ended up going the tried and true routes to make sure it all worked out well once we were up and running.
The scale you're working in has little to no bearing on how much time it's going to take. Laying track is labor-intensive. Are there three-legged jigs for laying the curves? I've always heard that curves should be spaced a hair wider, hence using the three-legged-jig. A three to five-car train is going to look wonderful.
Labor of love, at least! 😂 But yeah, the curves, oh, the curves 😬😊 ...You’ll see soon that we’ll be 3.5” between ties on the outside of curve taking into consideration the tie spacing in the inside of the curve, especially at 20’ radius turns. Gotta leave some space for the ballast. Gosh, we might be to our curves next weekend and we’ll see how it goes! Have a good night!
A more prototypical spacing of ties would be every 3” or 40 ties per 10ft of track. I give my customers the option of 6”, 4” or 3” tie spacing. But this gets to be expensive and overkill for the lighter weights of a mini railroad. I use only 20 ties per 10ft section of track (every 6”) on my railroad and that gives plenty of support without breaking the bank. If I went with 40 ties per section, I’d probably opt for a smaller gravel size than the #57 gravel I use now. #57 stone size is about 1 inch.
Actually, what rail are you using? Our gauge bars are for Midwest Scale Rail’s 141 Pound Profile rail and they don’t work on West Coast Profile rail. You better triple check that for yourself! Call Carl right away if you’re not sure if what you ordered will fit what rail you have!
You mentioned using Accutie as gauge bars, but you did not mention the aluminum gauge bars you were using, which looked to me to be from Midwest Scale Rail. Is that correct?
Yes, that is correct. With our tight turns, we went back and filled in our original wide separation of Midwest SR ties with Accu-tie’s ties to bring our ties closer together and assist with gauge accuracy. Plus, Accu-tie ties were a bit less expensive.
You should get a plum cove box cab for now if your building a locomotive of your own because when or if you do not want it they sell for only 50-100 dollars less than a new one if it is taken care of and put tougher
What was the total cost for every 10ft section? Where did you purchase your supplies? I have 125 Acres and would love to put this in for the grandkids. Ok, its for me. LOL
😂😂 Yeah, it’s for us 😂 Pricing? Boy, it’s already gone up probably and shipping is always the kicker. I recommend going through our backyard railroad playlist making sure you check out the descriptions for everything being used. But as you start pricing out ten foot sections, I can tell you that we use approximately 21 ties per 10’ section. I usually just space them out with the wide side of a 2x4. But if you went to scale, you’d use more ties per section. Anyway, here’s our Playlist…
@minnesotaeerailroad8471 shipping for me is not an issue. I have a transport company. I could send a driver there to pick up the supplies and bring them back to Muskoka, Ont for me. I was just wondering where to buy the stuff. There's nothing in Canada for this stuff.
Well, the 3 main companies we’ve worked with are: Accu-tie Midwest Scale Rail Titan Trains For your track work, you could get everything you need from Accu-tie out of Kent, Ohio 👍 accu-tierailsystem.com
That quick change drill bit is pretty slick! I'm going to have to keep an eye out for one of those.
Yeah, it’s a life saver if you don’t have two drills.
Thats the cool thing about owning your own RR....you can do whatever!!
Your work ethic and dedication is amazing to me. You remind me of why I liked living in the midWest.
Man the bridge, its a work of art, love your craftsmanship in all that you do bot inside N and out 7.5 great work.
Nothing like modeling in N scale and inch and a half at the same time Pappy.
@@stevearnold2304 thats such a size difference its crazy.
Cool train 👌🙋🏻♂️
Good idea splitting the tie plates on the bridge Erik for this application on your bridge. Looking forward to seeing more videos of your backyard railroad build and having you on Back on Track. Best wishes. Steve.
It’s coming together love it
Looking good.
Like the new update
Love the jig! Looking great!
I see where you’ve built your railroad as economically as possible, such as using tie plates on every other tie. Also, every other tie is shorter (except on the bridge). So, I would like to see a video showing *all* the ways you’ve got creative so as to save you a little bit of money.
All said and done, I don’t think we found many ways to cut corners to save on cost. We tried in the beginning but ended up going the tried and true routes to make sure it all worked out well once we were up and running.
There are times when having 2 drills is handy... :-)
Nice
👍
looking good!, enjoying your progress. do you have your eyes on nay particular locomotive? just wondering
Hey man! Yes we do! It’s on its way! Stay tuned!
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 awesome! I am excited to see what you are going to get :)
Well, this first stage of motive power will be minimal so nothing as cool as that switcher you got!
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 hey, anything that gets you rolling on the tracks will be a great loco..you will have a blast with it for years
The scale you're working in has little to no bearing on how much time it's going to take. Laying track is labor-intensive.
Are there three-legged jigs for laying the curves? I've always heard that curves should be spaced a hair wider, hence using the three-legged-jig.
A three to five-car train is going to look wonderful.
Labor of love, at least! 😂 But yeah, the curves, oh, the curves 😬😊 ...You’ll see soon that we’ll be 3.5” between ties on the outside of curve taking into consideration the tie spacing in the inside of the curve, especially at 20’ radius turns. Gotta leave some space for the ballast. Gosh, we might be to our curves next weekend and we’ll see how it goes! Have a good night!
A more prototypical spacing of ties would be every 3” or 40 ties per 10ft of track. I give my customers the option of 6”, 4” or 3” tie spacing. But this gets to be expensive and overkill for the lighter weights of a mini railroad. I use only 20 ties per 10ft section of track (every 6”) on my railroad and that gives plenty of support without breaking the bank. If I went with 40 ties per section, I’d probably opt for a smaller gravel size than the #57 gravel I use now. #57 stone size is about 1 inch.
Looking good! Where did you get your gauge checking bars? Been trying to track some down but can’t seem to find them anywhere. Thanks!
I got them from Midwest Scale Rail when I bought their 141 Pound Profile rail last summer. www.midwestscalerail.com/products/
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 Awesome, thank you! Ordered some today.
Nice!
Actually, what rail are you using? Our gauge bars are for Midwest Scale Rail’s 141 Pound Profile rail and they don’t work on West Coast Profile rail. You better triple check that for yourself! Call Carl right away if you’re not sure if what you ordered will fit what rail you have!
I’ll double check with Carl, thanks!
You mentioned using Accutie as gauge bars, but you did not mention the aluminum gauge bars you were using, which looked to me to be from Midwest Scale Rail. Is that correct?
Yes, that is correct. With our tight turns, we went back and filled in our original wide separation of Midwest SR ties with Accu-tie’s ties to bring our ties closer together and assist with gauge accuracy. Plus, Accu-tie ties were a bit less expensive.
You should get a plum cove box cab for now if your building a locomotive of your own because when or if you do not want it they sell for only 50-100 dollars less than a new one if it is taken care of and put tougher
Great minds think alike! Stay tuned!
What was the total cost for every 10ft section? Where did you purchase your supplies? I have 125 Acres and would love to put this in for the grandkids. Ok, its for me. LOL
😂😂 Yeah, it’s for us 😂 Pricing? Boy, it’s already gone up probably and shipping is always the kicker. I recommend going through our backyard railroad playlist making sure you check out the descriptions for everything being used. But as you start pricing out ten foot sections, I can tell you that we use approximately 21 ties per 10’ section. I usually just space them out with the wide side of a 2x4. But if you went to scale, you’d use more ties per section. Anyway, here’s our Playlist…
Our playlist… Let us know what other questions come up after going through it 👍 ruclips.net/p/PLn4tsoI7jYMQXBtzgiCSis7myAN8cnmNt&si=WQ37kF1sNgwynliK
@minnesotaeerailroad8471 shipping for me is not an issue. I have a transport company. I could send a driver there to pick up the supplies and bring them back to Muskoka, Ont for me. I was just wondering where to buy the stuff. There's nothing in Canada for this stuff.
Well, the 3 main companies we’ve worked with are:
Accu-tie
Midwest Scale Rail
Titan Trains
For your track work, you could get everything you need from Accu-tie out of Kent, Ohio 👍 accu-tierailsystem.com
You might polk around Discover Live Steam for more possible places to buy… discoverlivesteam.com/
Instead of the dry river bed, why not put in a fish pond to run over. It would be more interesting.
Maybe in the future. But now it’s the money and we’re too far away from any power.