Mustang Auto Pro Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinder Driver Side Or Passenger Side 1971 Installation
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2013
- Bill shows you how to install a Auto Pro Driver Side or Passenger Side Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinder on your 1971 Convertible Mustang.
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www.cjponyparts.com/auto-pro-...
There's nothing worse than a faulty power top on your Mustang convertible and getting caught in the rain. The hydraulic system consists of the switch, motor, lines, and the convertible top cylinders. For repair on our 1971 Mustang, Bill installs a new hydraulic cylinder and a Scott Drake convertible top hose kit.
To install the new cylinders, you'll begin by removing the back seat cushions and quarter trim panels. Follow Bill's instructions to disconnect the old cylinder and remove it from your Mustang. Disconnect the lines next and remove them, and then install the new Scott Drake hose kit.
Installing the cylinder to the lines is simple, screwing on the longer hose to the bottom of the cylinder and the shorter hose to the top. You'll then need to fill and bleed the system, as demonstrated in the video. Once the system is filled and bled, make sure everything is dry and bolt the motor back and install the new cylinders. Put the trim panels back and the seat and you're finished. Total installation takes up to three hours on your 1971 Convertible Mustang.
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Thanks brother, just want you guy's to know, we out hear in Mustang land really appreciate you guys showing us the fix's for cars.
Thanks guys! I have no mechanical experience but was able to follow your instructions to fix my 68. Top down baby!!
Thanks for the compliment Omar
I followed this video to replace the hoses for my 67 Ford Galaxie 500 and it was nearly the same. Thanks you.. The 67 Galaxie has 3 bolts holding a plate that keeps the cylinder in place rather than one bolt.
i have a leak in my cylinder or at the connection. i can open and close my top but only with the glass window unzipped. Do you have glass? the guy that installed the top said i should have it unzipped when putting top down. pain in the but. i am heading out to work on the hydraulics leak on my 67 galaxie 500
I am working on an '05 mustang. It is amazing how little the system has changed. I have one cylinder leaking. Time to get to work, and hope for the best.
just bought an 01. top stopped working shortly after. motor and switch seem ok will change out my cylinders. just wondering if the hoses leak. your thoughts?
You guys make great videos, very informative and well filmed. Thank you!
I used the video to replace the lines and cylinders on my '67 Mustang convertible. Very useful...I am an intermediate do-it-yourselfer and it saved me some nice change! Thanks for the video!
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Alan Lennon Instablaster ;)
@Torin Carl thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Torin Carl It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Alan Lennon you are welcome :D
Thank you very much in showing me how to fix my 71 mustang Convertible, thank you again brother
It took me 4 1/2 hours to do , take care and God bless
Thank you. I have EXACTLY the same problem in my 2003. I am ordering the hydraulic hose line and tackling it myself. Thank you! Ford dealers were no help!
Lily, I just bought a 2001 in april. the top went up and down fine for the first few times. Now I am seeing leaking inside the drivers area where the top comes from. I think replacing the hydrolic cylinders will do it. what about the hose lines? How will I know if I need those. did you do the project? how did it go?
This might be the only video that shows how to remove the back seat! Thank you! Now I can get those darn seat belts out from under there...
I have used instead of a baster.I used the container from the brake bleeding kit .I just run a hose in the hole .then tip the container or cup upside down .and let it flow.
hell yea! im gonna put this video to test on my 67
I just recently fixed the hydraulic on my 69 convertible and although the video was very helpful (thanks Bill) I have to say it was a little different than the 70s in that video:
1.) To remove the cylinder arm from convertible top, there is a little bar that you need to unscrew before as the pin is right behind that bar (bummer).
2.) Also the pin is secured with a closed retaining ring that is hard to get off and even harder to put back on (whoever invented that should be fired..well, if he was not retired already :-)!
3.) In my 69 I found it easier to unscrew (2 screws) and remove plates to take cylinder bodies out of their fastening
4.) This is important and not mentioned by Bill and also nowhere else to find as both cylinders and lines do not come with instructions: The lines come with 6 O-rings - you HAVE to put them in the 2 holes of each cylinder and maybe the motor (I used old motor so the O-ring in there was still working) EVEN if you see some sort of O-ring system already in there. Otherwise you will not get the system sealed and during the bleeding process ATF will splash all over you (a lesson I learned the hard way). People might think that is obvious but since there is already something in the holes of the cylinders that look like O-rings one gets easily confused.
Excellent video instruction. Thank you!
I wish the early '67 pumps had a fill hole on the front not the side, or that the switch was reachable from the back seat.
It took two people to bleed mine properly, one filling while the other ran the pump from driver's left knee area.
Awesome, why would anyone give this a thumbs down!
Worked great, Thank you!
That is a job I would recommend leaving to an upholstery professional. I have tried a convertible top install in the past and would not feel confident enough to do a video showing you how to do it.
I am using this video as a guide to replacing the hydraulics in my 1965 Mustang, it helps a lot but it takes far more time than it seems on the video, and, hoo, boy, there are definitely some differences. Jeeze, Louise, helpful though most of this really is, I wish you had told us that filling the motor and bleeding the lines would take a quart of ATF and at least an hour of back and forth. And on the '65, there is no handy dandy little rubber plug, it is a big brass screw, and it is on the side, not the top, so, who knows when it is full, it leaks all the time unless you hold the motor up vertically and fill it. Also, the back of the seat does not pop out, it is bolted in, the old hydraulic pumps do not just pop out with a wiggle from a pry bar, you have to unbolt several bolts and pull a flat plate of steel.. It goes on and on, but, still, the video was a great help, plus there was a diagram I found online that was also almost as helpful as the video when it came to removing the hydraulic pumps.
Great video!!
Very informative. Now I know how to tackle the top on my '73.
Great Video. I replaced both cylinders and hoses but my top wont go all the way to close at top. a couple inches short. I guess replace motor or could i adjust frame?
I guess it goes without saying.. with everything disassembled its a good time to throughly clean up the messes, that fluid makes, plus its a good time to lubricate the the rear quarter window tracks, and guide wheels, and replace if necessary. Also, paint those side panels.. back to white if possible. I see a lot of repair videos, where the guy completely misses opportunities to clean, re-paint, and lubricate other systems that become more accessible during the primary system repair. Also inspect your floors for holes, and repair and primer and paint any bare or rusting metal.
This video was exactly what I needed. I love the facts and detail without all the commentary and filler chat. Great stuff. I realuze its an old video but..... is there a rebuild kit for the top rams? Thanks
No we have not done anything on that yet.
My son and I love your videos. Will you ever do a video on how to replace a convertible top on a 1965 Mustang? (BTW: I have a 65 if you need a car to use in the video. (-:)
I have a 71. Thanks!!!!!!!!
I think my problem may be the switch. Do you guys have a video on how to replace the switch on a 1966 mustang?
I assume from the video that you do this job, with the top in the down position?
On the Mustang the hose closest to the front of the car went to the lower part of the cylinder and the hose closest the back of the car went to the top.
I know this is for a 1971, but would this process apply to the 2014 mustang? I can’t imagine much changing in terms of a simple convertible motor.
Thanks bill I built my 2015 mustang GT watching your videos and now I’m
Building my 70 chevelle convertible the same way thanks. @SICC_5.0
My top (73) doesn't make any noise... Where is the circuit breaker for the motor? Thanks!
Could you please explain what kind of "retainer" is found on those 69 through 73 clevis pins.Is it a push nut? And more importantly...how to get them off the pin! I'm having a terrible time with them.
I closed my top on the new Beetle manually, because the micro switch did not work. I opened the valve half a turn. What can I do so it runs with the motor again. Just close the valve? Or do I have to bleed the system? Should I open an close it manually a few times so air can eventually go out?
I have a 68 chevelle... my eyelets that connect to the convertable top rail have a slight bend... does anyone know if this slight kink is supposed to be facing inwards or outwards?
I Have an 03 convert Bison Ford Garage refilled my fluid and now its leaking out of under my car " they will not do anything about it". "That's the chance you take when you put fluid in" they said.. It most likely cracked the cylinder on the driver side they said. I was wondering if you know where I can get used ones or new ones. I won't go thru them for anything. Thanks
My top won't go up on my pony.. I have power & hear the motor in the down position but not in the up position... Should I replace the switch?? Once the power assembly is removed how the heck do you get the switch out?
Fluid is fine ✔️
No leaks ✔️
Well done video. I have a question concerning assembly. Is there a reason you added sealant to the compression fitting threads on the pump? I've always understood, it is not required because the seal is at the flare/seat on a compression fitting, not the threads as with an NPT thread. Just wondering if this is particular to this installation.
Timothy Lumpkin Just habit
DO THE LINES HAVE TO BE BLED? MY TOP WILL NOT GO UP EQUALLY UNLESS I PARTIALLY LOOSEN THE LINE FITTING ON THE PASSENGER SIDE (LOWER). THANKS
Anybody know if these steps work on 92 convertible mustang
P.S. A few typos....meant "with" instead of "wish". I can send photos if you'd like.
They take away from my on camera presence :)
Can you put too much fluid in. I tilted up my motor and filled the reservoir. I may have put too much in. Or I may have air in. I didn't work the top up and down with the plug out, I put in and moved top up and down. That might have been my mistake.
Thank you very much. I have an '86 GT convertible, 70K miles (not a misprint, it all checked out on carfax). I've owned it for past 2 years, put 7,000 on it.
A hose on the passenger side broke yesterday. Looks like a very clean break...like it was cut. I've got the seat out, door panel off, and have mopped up all the spilled fluid on the floor that was under the seat. The top is down.
1. Could the hose have gotten caught up in the brackets and moving parts of the roof, causing it to be cut??
2. When you pass the replacement hoses from the pump down to the lift cylinder..around that corner, down through the door frame...is caution needed to make sure the hoses are in an exact postion to avoid getting tangled up in the moving parts of the convertible top?
3. The present hoses on the passenger side appear just as they do in you video..mostly white, with a stripe on them. The hoses on the driver's side, however, and all encased in a black rubber jacket. I was curious as to why.
4. Wish the hose showing a complete cut...would failure be immediate? Or is it possible I made a few trips and top raises and closes before it would not work anymore?
Thanx again for the video...it give me courage to take this project on. I'm an amateur...in case you could not tell by my questions.
tom smith The top will go up on one cylinder but very slowly and since the mechanism is a loop eventually all the fluid will be lost where the line was cut. If the line gets caught in the mechanism usually it gets mangled and is not a clean break. Make sure when replacing the lines they are clear of moving parts.
Will you guys make a video repairing or replacing the switch?
If we get another convertible project in the future I will make sure we do the switch
Question: does anyone know how to put the convertible top up or down and secure it on a 1973 mustang? I just got one and I don’t know how to do it.
Bill, nice video. I've got a 67 convertible and only one side of mine works so I'll be going through the procedures but here's my quick question: why not replace the drive while you were at it, since you have new lines, new left side cylinder...just curious? Mine is the original and I'll be interesting when I go check this out.
We did replace both, just didn't show both sides since the process is the same for both sides.
what kind of hydraulic fluid would be the best for a 2002 ford mustang??
You can use Dex III ATF
Is this the same process for a 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible?
Yes they work the same way.
I have an 04 which is leaking from the right-side lift cylinder. The leak is coming from either the upper lift-cylinder connection point or perhaps from the top of the cylinder itself, I really can't tell. Is there any way I can fault isolate the problem to either the connection point or the lift-cylinder? Is there some kind if varnish or epoxy that I could coat the outside of the line's brass connector with, at the connection point with the lift-cylinder, that might seal it? I figure if there was something I could coat the exterior of the connector with and the leak stopped, that would tell me that the problem was with the connection point....and of course it would also fix the problem. On the other hand, if the leak persisted, that would tell me that the problem was with the lift-cylinder itself. Thanks in advance!
I have never tried anything to seal the leak, usually you can tell by running the motor if the leak is at the connection point or not. If you are losing fluid from anywhere the cylinders will not work properly.
I'm having the same issue in my 03 mustang. It is leaking from the top of the hydraulic cylinder as well, should I replace the cylinder and both lines or both cylinders and both lines?
If the leak is just at the cylinder and the line is not leaking then you are ok to just replace the cylinders. I usually recommend replacing both but you do not have to.
Bill Tumas
Thanks!
Why is it that you don't return calls on your customer service line?
hey bill,i had a question you might be able to help me with, i have a 91 mustang and i am replacing my hoses and cylinders on the convertible top, when i pulled the cylinders out they were covered in grease and filthy and i neglected to jot down how they were oriented, should the holes in the cylinders where the hoses connect to point towards the front of the car or the rear? not really sure if this is a big issue, just wanted to make sure i dont foul anything up, thank you so much!!
The hoses coming from the front of the motor should go to the front lower holes on the cylinders. The rear go to the rear higher holes.
do the cylinders just need to be pried out. cant figure it out 89 lx
Mike
***** They shouldn't have to be pried out but I have come across a few that would not budge without some persuasion.
***** hey owen, no they dont pry out even though at first thats what appears to be, there is actually a little bracket on each side that comes out and once thats out the cylinder will slide out, look for the spot where the cylinders are anchored,there are 2 little bits that hold them in place,one of those is attached with a screw to the frame, remove that screw and the bracket comes off and then you can slide them out, the other one is spot welded to the top frame.
How much does some thing like this cost to have done..
IF U HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR TOP GOING UP AND YOUR ON THE ROAD TRY HITTING THE PUMP LIGHTLY WITH HAMMER OR SOMETHING WITH SOME WEIGHT. THIS HAPPENS TO ME EVERY NOW AND THEN. I DIDNT SEE IN THIS VIDEO HOW THE BLEEDING WENT. MY PUMP IS IN CAR AND CYLINDERS TO. THERE IS AIR IN MY LINES AND I DONT KNOW HOW TO GET IT OUT. THATS WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR IN THIS VIDEO
It bugs me that he didn't clean up the huge fluid leak
me too - when i take stuff apart I have to clean everything before i put it back - my wife calls it OCD - I call it clean.
Review 2001
No safety glasses this time? Lol. Just kidding.
No thread sealer needed, the threads don't make the hose seal much like brake lines.