Hello Mark, my two cents; Its fuel, the bike is just sitting around and the fuel begins to brake down, also the age of the loom maybe another issue and the Carby is one that will need a clean, the jet, float some great comments on here and all are good. Enjoy, good to see and learn...
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Ishaan Skyler i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Simple fix. Remove the carb, take it apart, clean everything and check float needle seat, and check the float height! The bike is flooding, and you said it’s been doing this for a long time. Too much fuel during start up. Indicates float level set too high. Re-adjust and try again. Make sure jets are clean and correct size, especially pilot jet.
Carby may just need a clean. All the passages and jets may have just enough crud in them to not allow the bike to start normally. I would merely take it apart and make sure every hole isn't blocked with carby cleaner and compressed air if possible. It doesnt take a great amount to clog everything up(esp pilot jet) and if the fuel tank looks as rusty on the inside like it does on out I would put a filter on the fuel line if not already fitted, maybe replace if old or blocked. Or the stale fuel clogging it up in general. Can't see it being oil fouled due to it having good compression, better than mine at least haha. The only other thing I can think of is valve clearances which can definitely make starting difficult. Best of luck, loving the postie bike videos. Keep them coming, Cheers
the wiring loom around the head stem will have a broken wire in it... usually the black with a white trace, thats the kill switch wire... a new plug and fresh fuel.. drain the fuel in the carby by the screw in the fuel bowl....let it run for a few seconds... this makes sure the float isnt stuck
Mark, you quite clearly are the problem. Every time you kick, you open the throttle. With the choke on and all that gas into the cylander you are guaranteed to wet the plug. Remedy: One kick with choke on and no throttle. If it doesnt start, open choke and no throttle with next kick. Try a little throttle twist and let go for third kick. The soot is from long idles and or running with the choke on. Cheers from Vancouver Island
I have three CT90s. All have rebuilt carbs and all other things with HONDA parts. Two start per the factory manual. One starts with no choke and runs perfectly. If I choke that one, if floods. I have pulled that carb three times and everything else (all bikes have new points and such) has been checked. It runs perfectly it gets good mileage, it just starts with choke off unlike the other two. Try starting with no choke if all else fails. All three bikes have text book compression and new intake valve seals (precaution) and never smoke.
lots of comments on here already about the fuel and usually for me that 100% reason for why everything i have from the lawn mower, pressure washer and the old GSX1100E after sitting over winter. I keep the tank near empty, i keep a bit of the expensive fuel in them at the end of the season before i put stuff away for winter. In spring drain the fuel in the bowls add new expensive fuel remove the air filter spray a little "instant start" and turn them over and usually have a positive result. also maybe a carb rebuild/freshen up video that might be educational
Hard starting can come from poor valve clearances Mark. But pull the carb off give it a internal clean. You dont need to pull it down into a million pieces. Pull the jets out and float give it all a bit of a blowout. Dirt tracks you will always get some sort of crud in them. Via fuel tank or airbox. Hes a tip. When you finish riding it and you have no plans to ride it again in the near future. Either drain the carb or switch the fuel off and run it dry. Also keep the tank low. Next time you want to use it when you switch the tap on the carb will get better fuel then the stuff sitting in the bowl. We use this technique between races. As they are a couple of months apart. (and drain tank) Fuels dont last to long. Shouldn't need a kit just a clean. Maybe grab a tin of carb cleaner wouldn't hurt
When you suspect a bike (or any engine) is flooded and you have the plug out, Kick it over with the throttle wide open (and keep it wide open) with the choke off, kick, kick, kick to dry out the cylinder before putting the plug back in.
Mark... My 250 was doing the same thing years ago... I went to a hotter spark plug. The number 7 I changed to a number 8 and problem solved. No more flooding. No more fouled plugs. I hope this helps bubba. Rubber side down my friend...... Rubber side down.
Hi Mark, Been working my way steadily through all your videos over the last few months of lockdown here in the UK, now I'm up to date and enjoying your content keep up the good work!! For the problem you have there I'd put my vote in for fuel quality & carb condition too, bikes that don't run very often are far too likely to gunk up and the fuel can attract water if there is an ethanol content. I'd be looking at draining the carb into a glass to check the fuel quality, if there is any sign of water do the same for the tank and then clean out the carb. All the best with it, will be watching to see how it works out!! :) Keep on spannering!! ;)
Pull carb, remove bowl an clean, remove float, kneedle an seat then clean, also remove the main an pilot jets and clean. I usually use carb cleaner an air hose on the jets and carb venturies but don't get it on any rubber seals best to remove them aswell. Also invest in fuel stabilizer if you don't use the bike much. Cheers Mark.
Great to be shown the carb, being stripped cleaned and put back together with a new parts kit. Inspiring me to buy a U.K. kit £12 and do exactly the same, as my anf125 which is running like a right dog!! Brilliant Video so, so helpful, can’t wait to get stuck in.
1. I'd clean the carb jets, replace the fuel. 2. If still hard to start I'd check the valve clearances to make sure they're in spec. 3. If still hard to start do a cylinder compression check with a gauge.
Well i have a question i have an 86 honda ct110 there is no fuel getting to the combustion chamber and i have no spark any ideas please. what i have been told is the stator is bad. is there a way to check the stator
i dont know much about bikes but i would say take the carb out and clean it and if there is a carb kit for them, 2nd the reason the plugs getting wet from oil is that you will need to redo the piston rings so maybe rip the engine out and redo the whole engine so thats all the gaskets and rings and maybe check the valves. awsome vids
My Ct had similar probs from not being used. Also I left the fuel tap on & yep fuel went into the engine diluting the oil. Quickest easiest fix was a new knock off carbie. Cheap to buy easy to fit. Wire brush the plug, give the bike a good run, check the plug. If too rich, drop the needle a notch. But it's better too rich than too lean... All the best. Or if you can be bothered with the hassle, try the carbie from your other postie.
Try this for kickstarting old Hondas Mark, Full choke, find TDC, check kill switch is off, key on, give it one solid boot. Then choke off, and kick it again. Thing is, with the choke on while you’re trying to start it, it’s flooding the cylinder
Mark, no need for a new plug but use a brass brush on it and clean it up proper. Definitely needs a carb kit and are you shutting off the petcock when not in use?
Take off the carby clean all the jets and airway’s then rest the air screw and idle screw back to there original positions ( has in the service manual ) . Now set and adjust the valves ( has in the Sevice manual ) A lot of the time, if the bikes been slowly having trouble to start, it’s a good idea to check the valves before you start turning screws on the carburettor , if the valves are good , then the first screw on the carby you need to touch is the drain screw ( turn the fuel off at the tap/petcock ) loosen the drain screw until fuel stops . Now retighten the drain screw and turn the fuel back on , you can do this 2 or 3 times to help wash any dirt or grit through the fuel ways.
Check the plug lead as well, had a blower / vac that had plenty of spark out of the engine but when the plug and lead were in the engine the position of the lead must have open a gab in the lead.
If the plug is that wet why choke it ? Does it not have 2 adjustment screw's high low idle ? Turn all way in till bottom out the turn out 1 1/2 turns on both go from there to fine tune it , and for god sakes put a new plug in it . Check gap ?
Ok a few possible issues: -Petcock could be leaking, causing the carb to flood -Running too rich -Dirty carb What I believe is happening is that the petcock might have a slow drip/leak, which over the course of a few months is causing the carb to flood, flooding the engine with fuel on initial startup. The secondary issue is that the float seat is likely dirty, which is allowing fuel to flood the carb while sitting, and also running too rich while it is running since it will just continually keep adding fuel. The fix is simple: buy a rebuild kit for the petcock and carb, and thoroughly clean them out. Use a single strand from a brass brush and use that to swap the small passages, and maybe let it soak in kerosene / diesel. Rebuild kits are REALLY cheap, and you could just try cleaning it, but likely the seals on the petcock / float seat are worn out considering the age of the bike. Just make sure to set your float properly after that, and you should be golden with easy starts! That's it.
Mark, mate, when you lay the bike up stick fuel additive in the tank helps stop the fuel going off, I've done it now for the last two years, and touch wood never had an issue, but before I used the additive I had to strip the carbs, bloody nightmare.. I use 973 micro flex, Benzin E5-100.. You'll get it on ebay its about £10/14pounds not sure what that is in Australian dollars 👍 Cheers mate, keep on keeping on. 👍👍👍🍺😁😁
Your number 2 fuel tank (Reserve) has to be opened so that you can get the rest of the fuel that's in the tank. The petcock in the on position will look like it is half full of fuel but you're not getting fuel through number one any more in the on position. I believe what you see in the tank is reserve fuel and when you move the bike around a bit fuel gets into the stand pipe. You can try to put it on reserve to get the rest of the fuel in the tank used.
I notice when you're kicking it, the lights are on- I found this to be an issue on a C50 many years ago, without a battery it started easier and better without the lights on, likely due to some wealness somewhere in the genny. If the lights don't turn off on that model, try taking the bulbs out and see if it makes a difference. If not, next move is to swap carbs from one bike to the other, and see if the problem transfers with it. Goes it smoke when it does start easily, oil smoke? Not after many kicks, but when it decides to not fight and kick up right away? If so, might be worn valve guides or rings letting the plug oil up, but many kicks trying may dispel it after its faffed the plug?
Love these films, I live in England. Smashing, fun, funny and direct. More about the Ct110. The stories are so interesting and delivered in such a cool way! Thanks
If the spark plug is wet, most likely is oil. I would check the stator, 'cause is probably generating the spark but is doing out of time even if its matters of microsecs. I got a cgl 125, that is basicly the same bike and you would surprise if i tell you the times that happens
When you held the cigarette lighter on the plug it did not ignite, the "wet stuff" so cannot be fuel then. Is it the other "wet stuff", water? Engines sitting outside and condensation getting into the fuel. Maybe into fuel tank or Carby or both.
If you're going to let it sit around for weeks at a time you should let it run with the fuel tap off till it dies or you will probably have to kick it 100 times to pump all the dead fuel thru. If you've left fuel in the carby for ages, drain the carby and start with fresh fuel. Until you've done that you're stabbing in the dark mate. You said it all yourself FUEL spark air etc but you skipped straight past all the dead fuel in the bowl. Take it from a silly old sod who learnt this all the hard way.
Try swaping carb form good bike to poor starting bike and check its needle hight the same on both bikes before trying that and try swapping over ignition switch over some times they ware out in the barrel and have poor connection inside and works sometime and not
You want to check the plugs before you crank for a while... as that is going to skew the result when you pull it out again after. Take it for a good ride, eg use that fuel tank and then come back let it cool, and then check the plug, while running it can burn off and clean it with use. ... You had the bike running... why mess with the settings. Choke is not always needed, as is it a Carbed bike it is for mainly colder temps when it is warm outside you don't always need to use the choke as you can flood it, and some a bit of throttle is all you need.
Inherited dads 1981 CT110. Been sitting for years. Would'nt start. Gas in tank no good, corrosion in tank. Drained gas. Removed tank. Apple Cider Vineger to clean tank. Still wouldn't run. Gas in Cylinder it would start right up, for a few seconds. Cleaned out carb to find chunks of debris in jet hole. Repeately. Would idle but wouldnt run without choke on. Replaced all hoses. Flushed tank more. cleaned carb more. No more problems. Ethenal Gas BAD, BAD, BAD. Oregon USA.
Check the carb vacuum port. It should be blocked off. You'll be kicking and kicking and sending fuel into the engine and fouling the spark plug. This is a common problem in carb bikes. Also change the O ring for the needle seat valve and clean out the rest.
Yeah what John said about the black and white wire and it also means you don't need the key on to start it. Try moving the clip on the needle to lean it out I suggest that because you seem to have had it running with the air box is off and if it takes a while to warm up I would suggest trying a new CDI but you said it's fine when it's warm so maybe don't bother. But I'm like you I'm no mechanic. So sometimes I just put it down to them having character. Hahahahahahah good luck 👍🍻
I have the same mechanic credentials as you Mark...I would be looking at the float and the needle and seat. I think some of those old floats could absorb fuel, become too heavy, and flood the carb... but what the hell do I know...ha ha
Stale fuel is the culprit, wets the plug and it won't fire, white spark is no good, blue purple is good, always first thing is drain the carb, or drain it before you park the bike, carb is vented to the outside world and a small amount in the bowl so it goes off quicker than a full tank so when you go to ride turn fuel on and get better quality fuel. The worst scenario is blocked slow or main jets with dried up fuel. As someone else said a broken wire behind headlight is common with posties as handlebars do much more side to side and turns than a "normal" bike would and in a much shorter time span. Carb running rich on posties sometimes is very worn needle, needle jet and main letting in more fuel than intended, I have seen some funny shaped needles. Dirt goes through with petrol and wears the brass, posties go through a lot of fuel in their lifetime and depending where it was based in OZ may get more dirt than others also with poor air cleaner maintenance, also when they fall over the air cleaner can fill with fuel and wash some of the oil away.
i have a few of these bikes and none has posted the correct answer, fuel in the carby has gone bad on the bottom of the carby is the drain screw turn off fuel tap undo screw a few turns wait for fuel to stop coming out of drain pipe turn on fuel tap and let some more fuel drain out then do up screw put choke on should start first time. the reason the plug is wet is because the bad fuel has not been burnt and just builds up on plug.
Pull the carb off, check everything is how the book says. No shims under the needle, jets are clean and sizes are factory, air fuel mixture screw is where they say in the book....put a new plug in it once you have done all that.
I have a question, if Tango doesn't shut off with the key and shuts off only with the kill switch,, Will Tango start with the key off, but with the kill switch on ? Hmmm, Hope ya see where im coming from.
@@BikerBits well i think it does as you might find if you have power there to start with instead of the the charging system trying to get power through the system as well as have power to work the ignition might need to check the wiring as with your wont stop when turn key off
I think you need to ride it a bit more. If it rest outside, and unused for a long time, things starts to happen. Corrosion in the carb, as it dryes out, and condensation in the tank and carb. All the small things that not makes it start as it should.
Hi Mark , will interesting finding out the problem with the bike , the plug looks far to black, running rich , however , is the plug a resistor type ?, when the resistor plug starts to fail they do have a really bright spark ! Process of elimination I say! It'll be a simple fix Mark , just have to find it !🤔 Loved working those bikes as a mechanic . Cheers.ps , it needs s tune up!🤔
Try a hoter plug,remember the lower the number the hoter the plug, smell the plug to see if smells like petrol, but remember if in a hot climate a hot plug is not a good idea, it sound like it’s not burning the fuel, a hot plug will burn fuel better, hope this helps.
I said that same thing about the plug, it looks like it's been burning 2Stroke (I mean, none of us got our trade by looking at a screen, we were all hands on)... Or... That it's too cold a plug to burn clean when sporadically ridden, on older oil control ring tolerances.
Compression: test compression with a gauge if you have one (or thumb over the plug hole if you don''t) You don't just need some compression, you need ENOUGH compression. Also check valve clearances. Fuel: it looks to be running very rich. Try starting it from cold with no choke and some throttle.. Btw the wet plug is just fuel going into the cylinder when you tried starting it and .not part of the problem. But look what the plug looks like before you try to start it to eliminate that possibility. Ignition: looks ok because when it starts its all good, but check the system anyway, a plug may spark on the head, but under pressure when fitted it may break down. Try the plug from the other postie to see if anything changes Timing: valve and ignition. Worn timing chains can put the timing out enough to leave valves slightly open or the spark out of synch..
I would start with the carby coming of & giving it a clean, a new carby kit though it check the float setting, clean all the jets, because you know you have spark it run sort of, there only two things it needs spark & fuel & at the moment way to much fuel into the chamber, all the best with Tango Mark 👍👍ps I’m still yet to finish watching MCT 7 cheers Mick’o
i've had the same problem what i found was that the float kept getting stuck limiting the amount of fuel and it wouldnt run try playing around with the float and try again
That is the definition of a fouled plug! I don't think I have seen one worse in 63 years of biking. Rebuild carb! Put in new plug and always carry a spare plug (cheap insurance).
Hi Mark, I reckon it's f*@ked mate 😃 Yea something to do with the mechanicals I reckon. Sorry ! I know you'll get a load of knowledgeable replies, just adding a worthless one in. Enjoyed the video and hope you'll have another one showing the fix. Keep up the great work of making people smile !
So... You have a flooded cylinder... But every kick your cranking on the throttle and pulling choke, and adding more fuel to the flooded plug?. That's counter to my intuition!. Our old one was first kick choke and crank throttle to full once, no choke no throttle second kick it would fire off and you can gently fan the throttle to keep it going for half a minute!. Ours was anti cranking throttle and choke(unless it's reasonable cold, and you can see your breath) it's the way they are, they were designed to do a job for a million different people on any other day!... Honda made it reliable and easy to start as part of the package!. So unless your bike has been molested by a "halfa meknic" in a paddock, you don't need to choke it and throttle it every kick!. Its called over fuelling and it presents exactly like yours did... If you need to crank&kick, then set your carby up with smaller jets and snap that throttle full each kick!. Set it up for you... Or buy a rebuild kit with a new standard jet kit and go factory reliability. But if you have a wet plug, and it dries off, then it's often over fuelled... If it's wet and burnt and it doesn't dry off the plug, that's indicative of an oil problem... Cos unless you have a 2 stroke you are not supposed to be burning oil with the spark plug. Lastly, sinceu it's an old bike that may be a little loose on the oil control ring, running a one step hotter plug can help.
Clean the carby and new gas. The fuel today has a shelf life of SHIT! When you park the bikes put Stabil in the fuel or if you can go to the airport and get some AV-Gas 100LL octane. That stuff stays good for a long time just make sure you mix it 50/50 with regular gas, otherwise you may burn a valve.
I'm like you Mark, not too good when it comes to engines. I think you need to carry a tin of (Start Ya Bastard) when ever you take that bike out for a run..
Don’t put ethanol fuel in the bike I would always drain the float bowl Good gas in the tank bad gas in the float bowl Your idle jet may be clogged if it won’t run without the choke Best of luck
i was wondering about this as i am about to purchase a 1981 ct110 and want a good strong engine to road and trail on and i see here you suggesting the 140, is there any particular motor one should look out for for best fitting? Thanks
@@TheSuperChannel i only mentioned the lifan 140 as there are a number of people who have already done that conversion with videos on RUclips discussing issues and stuff. it bolts straight up by the look of it and all you have to do is play with the cog size to achieve the right balance of speed vs acceleration for your needs.
@@HJZ75driver As someone who’s had long experiences with fuel stabilizers and such the goal is to cut down on what builds up inside the carberator not stabilize the fuel that sits around. Less clogged passages and such. He probably has to clean the carb now.
Hello Mark, my two cents; Its fuel, the bike is just sitting around and the fuel begins to brake down, also the age of the loom maybe another issue and the Carby is one that will need a clean, the jet, float some great comments on here and all are good. Enjoy, good to see and learn...
sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Matteo Brayden Instablaster ;)
@Ishaan Skyler i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ishaan Skyler it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Matteo Brayden Glad I could help =)
Clean the carb. Looks like the float needle isn’t seating properly causing it to flood.
Simple fix. Remove the carb, take it apart, clean everything and check float needle seat, and check the float height! The bike is flooding, and you said it’s been doing this for a long time. Too much fuel during start up. Indicates float level set too high. Re-adjust and try again. Make sure jets are clean and correct size, especially pilot jet.
Carby may just need a clean. All the passages and jets may have just enough crud in them to not allow the bike to start normally. I would merely take it apart and make sure every hole isn't blocked with carby cleaner and compressed air if possible. It doesnt take a great amount to clog everything up(esp pilot jet) and if the fuel tank looks as rusty on the inside like it does on out I would put a filter on the fuel line if not already fitted, maybe replace if old or blocked. Or the stale fuel clogging it up in general. Can't see it being oil fouled due to it having good compression, better than mine at least haha. The only other thing I can think of is valve clearances which can definitely make starting difficult. Best of luck, loving the postie bike videos. Keep them coming, Cheers
Tango is like the modern mailman, “rain, sleet, snow, and now anything else will keep them from delivering the mail” (and/or doing their job!).
the wiring loom around the head stem will have a broken wire in it... usually the black with a white trace, thats the kill switch wire... a new plug and fresh fuel.. drain the fuel in the carby by the screw in the fuel bowl....let it run for a few seconds... this makes sure the float isnt stuck
Mark, you quite clearly are the problem. Every time you kick, you open the throttle. With the choke on and all that gas into the cylander you are guaranteed to wet the plug. Remedy: One kick with choke on and no throttle. If it doesnt start, open choke and no throttle with next kick. Try a little throttle twist and let go for third kick. The soot is from long idles and or running with the choke on. Cheers from Vancouver Island
I love how you start off with your distinct disclaimer. Pure and simple! Love it!
I have three CT90s. All have rebuilt carbs and all other things with HONDA parts. Two start per the factory manual. One starts with no choke and runs perfectly. If I choke that one, if floods. I have pulled that carb three times and everything else (all bikes have new points and such) has been checked. It runs perfectly it gets good mileage, it just starts with choke off unlike the other two. Try starting with no choke if all else fails. All three bikes have text book compression and new intake valve seals (precaution) and never smoke.
lots of comments on here already about the fuel and usually for me that 100% reason for why everything i have from the lawn mower, pressure washer and the old GSX1100E after sitting over winter. I keep the tank near empty, i keep a bit of the expensive fuel in them at the end of the season before i put stuff away for winter. In spring drain the fuel in the bowls add new expensive fuel remove the air filter spray a little "instant start" and turn them over and usually have a positive result.
also maybe a carb rebuild/freshen up video that might be educational
where do you get your parts for your ct110. I have a 1980s in need of new parts.
Hard starting can come from poor valve clearances Mark.
But pull the carb off give it a internal clean. You dont need to pull it down into a million pieces. Pull the jets out and float give it all a bit of a blowout. Dirt tracks you will always get some sort of crud in them. Via fuel tank or airbox.
Hes a tip. When you finish riding it and you have no plans to ride it again in the near future. Either drain the carb or switch the fuel off and run it dry. Also keep the tank low. Next time you want to use it when you switch the tap on the carb will get better fuel then the stuff sitting in the bowl. We use this technique between races. As they are a couple of months apart. (and drain tank) Fuels dont last to long.
Shouldn't need a kit just a clean.
Maybe grab a tin of carb cleaner wouldn't hurt
check electrical contactpoints (oxidation). Maybe airfilter needs cleaning (not enough air to combust)? Clogged fuelfilter? Idle too low?
When you suspect a bike (or any engine) is flooded and you have the plug out, Kick it over with the throttle wide open (and keep it wide open) with the choke off, kick, kick, kick to dry out the cylinder before putting the plug back in.
Mark... My 250 was doing the same thing years ago... I went to a hotter spark plug. The number 7 I changed to a number 8 and problem solved.
No more flooding. No more fouled plugs. I hope this helps bubba.
Rubber side down my friend...... Rubber side down.
Hi Mark, Been working my way steadily through all your videos over the last few months of lockdown here in the UK, now I'm up to date and enjoying your content keep up the good work!!
For the problem you have there I'd put my vote in for fuel quality & carb condition too, bikes that don't run very often are far too likely to gunk up and the fuel can attract water if there is an ethanol content. I'd be looking at draining the carb into a glass to check the fuel quality, if there is any sign of water do the same for the tank and then clean out the carb. All the best with it, will be watching to see how it works out!! :)
Keep on spannering!! ;)
Pull carb, remove bowl an clean, remove float, kneedle an seat then clean, also remove the main an pilot jets and clean. I usually use carb cleaner an air hose on the jets and carb venturies but don't get it on any rubber seals best to remove them aswell. Also invest in fuel stabilizer if you don't use the bike much. Cheers Mark.
Great to be shown the carb, being stripped cleaned and put back together with a new parts kit. Inspiring me to buy a U.K. kit £12 and do exactly the same, as my anf125 which is running like a right dog!! Brilliant Video so, so helpful, can’t wait to get stuck in.
1. I'd clean the carb jets, replace the fuel. 2. If still hard to start I'd check the valve clearances to make sure they're in spec. 3. If still hard to start do a cylinder compression check with a gauge.
Well i have a question i have an 86 honda ct110 there is no fuel getting to the combustion chamber and i have no spark any ideas please. what i have been told is the stator is bad. is there a way to check the stator
i dont know much about bikes but i would say take the carb out and clean it and if there is a carb kit for them, 2nd the reason the plugs getting wet from oil is that you will need to redo the piston rings so maybe rip the engine out and redo the whole engine so thats all the gaskets and rings and maybe check the valves. awsome vids
My Ct had similar probs from not being used. Also I left the fuel tap on & yep fuel went into the engine diluting the oil. Quickest easiest fix was a new knock off carbie. Cheap to buy easy to fit. Wire brush the plug, give the bike a good run, check the plug. If too rich, drop the needle a notch. But it's better too rich than too lean... All the best. Or if you can be bothered with the hassle, try the carbie from your other postie.
Try this for kickstarting old Hondas Mark, Full choke, find TDC, check kill switch is off, key on, give it one solid boot. Then choke off, and kick it again. Thing is, with the choke on while you’re trying to start it, it’s flooding the cylinder
Yep- replace fuel- it goes off - and they have a strainer in the fuel tap- check that ( at least mine did!)
Yep!... Your Right...
The blimmin wasps and spiders and shit that strainer would catch Ay!.
Good Suggestion!.
Hi mate, great to see so many helpful comments too...looking forward to watching you remove, clean and reassemble that little carbie!
Mark, no need for a new plug but use a brass brush on it and clean it up proper. Definitely needs a carb kit and are you shutting off the petcock when not in use?
Take off the carby clean all the jets and airway’s then rest the air screw and idle screw back to there original positions ( has in the service manual ) . Now set and adjust the valves ( has in the Sevice manual )
A lot of the time, if the bikes been slowly having trouble to start, it’s a good idea to check the valves before you start turning screws on the carburettor , if the valves are good , then the first screw on the carby you need to touch is the drain screw ( turn the fuel off at the tap/petcock ) loosen the drain screw until fuel stops .
Now retighten the drain screw and turn the fuel back on , you can do this 2 or 3 times to help wash any dirt or grit through the fuel ways.
Check the plug lead as well, had a blower / vac that had plenty of spark out of the engine but when the plug and lead were in the engine the position of the lead must have open a gab in the lead.
If the plug is that wet why choke it ? Does it not have 2 adjustment screw's high low idle ? Turn all way in till bottom out the turn out 1 1/2 turns on both go from there to fine tune it , and for god sakes put a new plug in it . Check gap ?
Ok a few possible issues:
-Petcock could be leaking, causing the carb to flood
-Running too rich
-Dirty carb
What I believe is happening is that the petcock might have a slow drip/leak, which over the course of a few months is causing the carb to flood, flooding the engine with fuel on initial startup. The secondary issue is that the float seat is likely dirty, which is allowing fuel to flood the carb while sitting, and also running too rich while it is running since it will just continually keep adding fuel.
The fix is simple: buy a rebuild kit for the petcock and carb, and thoroughly clean them out. Use a single strand from a brass brush and use that to swap the small passages, and maybe let it soak in kerosene / diesel. Rebuild kits are REALLY cheap, and you could just try cleaning it, but likely the seals on the petcock / float seat are worn out considering the age of the bike. Just make sure to set your float properly after that, and you should be golden with easy starts!
That's it.
Vinegar is better, and alot nicer to seals. Gets rid of rust etc too
Hey Mark, check your float height as it could be set too high causing it to run rich.
Hope this helps you out mate 👍🏻
Mark, mate, when you lay the bike up stick fuel additive in the tank helps stop the fuel going off, I've done it now for the last two years, and touch wood never had an issue, but before I used the additive I had to strip the carbs, bloody nightmare.. I use 973 micro flex, Benzin E5-100.. You'll get it on ebay its about £10/14pounds not sure what that is in Australian dollars 👍 Cheers mate, keep on keeping on. 👍👍👍🍺😁😁
Your number 2 fuel tank (Reserve) has to be opened so that you can get the rest of the fuel that's in the tank. The petcock in the on position will look like it is half full of fuel but you're not getting fuel through number one any more in the on position. I believe what you see in the tank is reserve fuel and when you move the bike around a bit fuel gets into the stand pipe. You can try to put it on reserve to get the rest of the fuel in the tank used.
float is my thought but most the comments on here are spot on anyways. clean the carby, make sure float level is good and should be gold.
I notice when you're kicking it, the lights are on- I found this to be an issue on a C50 many years ago, without a battery it started easier and better without the lights on, likely due to some wealness somewhere in the genny. If the lights don't turn off on that model, try taking the bulbs out and see if it makes a difference. If not, next move is to swap carbs from one bike to the other, and see if the problem transfers with it. Goes it smoke when it does start easily, oil smoke? Not after many kicks, but when it decides to not fight and kick up right away? If so, might be worn valve guides or rings letting the plug oil up, but many kicks trying may dispel it after its faffed the plug?
Love these films, I live in England. Smashing, fun, funny and direct. More about the Ct110. The stories are so interesting and delivered in such a cool way! Thanks
If the spark plug is wet, most likely is oil. I would check the stator, 'cause is probably generating the spark but is doing out of time even if its matters of microsecs. I got a cgl 125, that is basicly the same bike and you would surprise if i tell you the times that happens
I kinda want one of those now. Is that 550 paracord wrapped on the crash bars?
Yep! :-)
I would just for hoots and giggle, check the ignition stator output. It maybe weak, only able to push a spark under ideal condition.
When you held the cigarette lighter on the plug it did not ignite, the "wet stuff" so cannot be fuel then. Is it the other "wet stuff", water? Engines sitting outside and condensation getting into the fuel. Maybe into fuel tank or Carby or both.
If it was water, engine would hydrolock. maybe oil?
If you're going to let it sit around for weeks at a time you should let it run with the fuel tap off till it dies or you will probably have to kick it 100 times to pump all the dead fuel thru. If you've left fuel in the carby for ages, drain the carby and start with fresh fuel. Until you've done that you're stabbing in the dark mate. You said it all yourself FUEL spark air etc but you skipped straight past all the dead fuel in the bowl. Take it from a silly old sod who learnt this all the hard way.
I clean the spark plugs on my Bardahl multipurpose bikes and they come to life.
From Spain, a cordial greeting
check vavle clearances tight inlet will cause poor cold start.good luck
Try swaping carb form good bike to poor starting bike and check its needle hight the same on both bikes before trying that and try swapping over ignition switch over some times they ware out in the barrel and have poor connection inside and works sometime and not
You want to check the plugs before you crank for a while... as that is going to skew the result when you pull it out again after.
Take it for a good ride, eg use that fuel tank and then come back let it cool, and then check the plug, while running it can burn off and clean it with use.
... You had the bike running... why mess with the settings.
Choke is not always needed, as is it a Carbed bike it is for mainly colder temps when it is warm outside you don't always need to use the choke as you can flood it, and some a bit of throttle is all you need.
Inherited dads 1981 CT110. Been sitting for years. Would'nt start. Gas in tank no good, corrosion in tank. Drained gas. Removed tank. Apple Cider Vineger to clean tank. Still wouldn't run. Gas in Cylinder it would start right up, for a few seconds. Cleaned out carb to find chunks of debris in jet hole. Repeately. Would idle but wouldnt run without choke on. Replaced all hoses. Flushed tank more. cleaned carb more. No more problems. Ethenal Gas BAD, BAD, BAD. Oregon USA.
Good Onya mate! 👍
Check the carb vacuum port. It should be blocked off. You'll be kicking and kicking and sending fuel into the engine and fouling the spark plug. This is a common problem in carb bikes. Also change the O ring for the needle seat valve and clean out the rest.
Are you going to the postie nats at maitland on the 19th?
No sorry
Yeah what John said about the black and white wire and it also means you don't need the key on to start it.
Try moving the clip on the needle to lean it out I suggest that because you seem to have had it running with the air box is off and if it takes a while to warm up I would suggest trying a new CDI but you said it's fine when it's warm so maybe don't bother. But I'm like you I'm no mechanic. So sometimes I just put it down to them having character. Hahahahahahah good luck 👍🍻
I have the same mechanic credentials as you Mark...I would be looking at the float and the needle and seat. I think some of those old floats could absorb fuel, become too heavy, and flood the carb... but what the hell do I know...ha ha
try apply front brake pump up and down repeatedly to shake up the float needle. seems to work for me.
Stale fuel is the culprit, wets the plug and it won't fire, white spark is no good, blue purple is good, always first thing is drain the carb, or drain it before you park the bike, carb is vented to the outside world and a small amount in the bowl so it goes off quicker than a full tank so when you go to ride turn fuel on and get better quality fuel. The worst scenario is blocked slow or main jets with dried up fuel. As someone else said a broken wire behind headlight is common with posties as handlebars do much more side to side and turns than a "normal" bike would and in a much shorter time span. Carb running rich on posties sometimes is very worn needle, needle jet and main letting in more fuel than intended, I have seen some funny shaped needles. Dirt goes through with petrol and wears the brass, posties go through a lot of fuel in their lifetime and depending where it was based in OZ may get more dirt than others also with poor air cleaner maintenance, also when they fall over the air cleaner can fill with fuel and wash some of the oil away.
Pull the carb out , put a kit through it, check the float and she should be good to go.
CT's usually run off smell of a old oily rag
check the jets if they gummed up from sitting with old fuel in it
possible warn needle or seat
What condition is the air filter in?
Good
As mention by others, clean the carb and it's worth checking the valve clearances. It's a fairly easy job on that bike 😀
i have a few of these bikes and none has posted the correct answer, fuel in the carby has gone bad on the bottom of the carby is the drain screw turn off fuel tap undo screw a few turns wait for fuel to stop coming out of drain pipe turn on fuel tap and let some more fuel drain out then do up screw put choke on should start first time.
the reason the plug is wet is because the bad fuel has not been burnt and just builds up on plug.
Pull the carb off, check everything is how the book says. No shims under the needle, jets are clean and sizes are factory, air fuel mixture screw is where they say in the book....put a new plug in it once you have done all that.
I got a can of 'start ya bastard' on the shelf. And for all the non Australian viewers, it's a real thing 👍
I saw an advert for that and thought it was a comedy skit. 😀
@@ed.barker7069 just spray it in your air intake when starting over and vrooommm!
I actually have a can of it on the shelf! 🤣
I have a question, if Tango doesn't shut off with the key and shuts off only with the kill switch,, Will Tango start with the key off, but with the kill switch on ? Hmmm,
Hope ya see where im coming from.
Oh and i forgot to say i think it's the float level :)
Not sure will have to try! :-)
why dont you check the battery?
The battery is dead, but makes no matter to starting it!
@@BikerBits well i think it does as you might find if you have power there to start with instead of the the charging system trying to get power through the system as well as have power to work the ignition might need to check the wiring as with your wont stop when turn key off
I think you need to ride it a bit more. If it rest outside, and unused for a long time, things starts to happen. Corrosion in the carb, as it dryes out, and condensation in the tank and carb. All the small things that not makes it start as it should.
Hi Mark , will interesting finding out the problem with the bike , the plug looks far to black, running rich , however , is the plug a resistor type ?, when the resistor plug starts to fail they do have a really bright spark ! Process of elimination I say! It'll be a simple fix Mark , just have to find it !🤔 Loved working those bikes as a mechanic . Cheers.ps , it needs s tune up!🤔
Try a hoter plug,remember the lower the number the hoter the plug, smell the plug to see if smells like petrol, but remember if in a hot climate a hot plug is not a good idea, it sound like it’s not burning the fuel, a hot plug will burn fuel better, hope this helps.
I said that same thing about the plug, it looks like it's been burning 2Stroke (I mean, none of us got our trade by looking at a screen, we were all hands on)... Or... That it's too cold a plug to burn clean when sporadically ridden, on older oil control ring tolerances.
Compression: test compression with a gauge if you have one (or thumb over the plug hole if you don''t) You don't just need some compression, you need ENOUGH compression. Also check valve clearances.
Fuel: it looks to be running very rich. Try starting it from cold with no choke and some throttle.. Btw the wet plug is just fuel going into the cylinder when you tried starting it and .not part of the problem. But look what the plug looks like before you try to start it to eliminate that possibility.
Ignition: looks ok because when it starts its all good, but check the system anyway, a plug may spark on the head, but under pressure when fitted it may break down. Try the plug from the other postie to see if anything changes
Timing: valve and ignition. Worn timing chains can put the timing out enough to leave valves slightly open or the spark out of synch..
I would start with the carby coming of & giving it a clean, a new carby kit though it check the float setting, clean all the jets, because you know you have spark it run sort of, there only two things it needs spark & fuel & at the moment way to much fuel into the chamber, all the best with Tango Mark 👍👍ps I’m still yet to finish watching MCT 7 cheers Mick’o
i've had the same problem what i found was that the float kept getting stuck limiting the amount of fuel and it wouldnt run try playing around with the float and try again
You cast the fly & caught some fish.
carb service and clean
That is the definition of a fouled plug! I don't think I have seen one worse in 63 years of biking. Rebuild carb! Put in new plug and always carry a spare plug (cheap insurance).
Id say that the float valve o ring has deteriorated. Strip the carb and rebuild.
I would say throw a fresh spark plug in it and check your spark plug wires for corrosion good luck man. And maybe consider using seafoam on it.
Nice one Mark. I'd think maybe carb needing cleaned, clogged jets etc or dirty fuel. Xtz tinkering at full throttle here now!! Hah. Awrabesht mate. Cheers, Al. 😉🏴👍🍻
Hi Mark, I reckon it's f*@ked mate 😃 Yea something to do with the mechanicals I reckon. Sorry ! I know you'll get a load of knowledgeable replies, just adding a worthless one in. Enjoyed the video and hope you'll have another one showing the fix. Keep up the great work of making people smile !
So... You have a flooded cylinder... But every kick your cranking on the throttle and pulling choke, and adding more fuel to the flooded plug?. That's counter to my intuition!.
Our old one was first kick choke and crank throttle to full once, no choke no throttle second kick it would fire off and you can gently fan the throttle to keep it going for half a minute!.
Ours was anti cranking throttle and choke(unless it's reasonable cold, and you can see your breath) it's the way they are, they were designed to do a job for a million different people on any other day!... Honda made it reliable and easy to start as part of the package!.
So unless your bike has been molested by a "halfa meknic" in a paddock, you don't need to choke it and throttle it every kick!.
Its called over fuelling and it presents exactly like yours did... If you need to crank&kick, then set your carby up with smaller jets and snap that throttle full each kick!. Set it up for you... Or buy a rebuild kit with a new standard jet kit and go factory reliability.
But if you have a wet plug, and it dries off, then it's often over fuelled... If it's wet and burnt and it doesn't dry off the plug, that's indicative of an oil problem... Cos unless you have a 2 stroke you are not supposed to be burning oil with the spark plug.
Lastly, sinceu it's an old bike that may be a little loose on the oil control ring, running a one step hotter plug can help.
15:25 dirty black spider under cylinder head.
Clean the carby and new gas. The fuel today has a shelf life of SHIT! When you park the bikes put Stabil in the fuel or if you can go to the airport and get some AV-Gas 100LL octane. That stuff stays good for a long time just make sure you mix it 50/50 with regular gas, otherwise you may burn a valve.
Oh my lord. Where does a man get ahold of all those bags? My 110 is in desperate need of storage like this.
Don't you just hate it when stuff doesn't work right! I'm sure you'll get a lot of suggestions, so I'll just say "good luck." 👍
Time for a carb clean/rebuild I think
check out youtuber Mustie1 never seen him not get a bike running
Clean the magneto mate
I'd check the condition of the idle screw, might be chipped? (or the idle jet).
Spray some carb cleaner in and see if it starts, if it does, most likely a petrol problem.
Start Ya Barstard is what we used, but exactly right!... Indicated a fuelling issue (too much/not enough) really quick!.
Drain the carby
I'm like you Mark, not too good when it comes to engines. I think you need to carry a tin of (Start Ya Bastard) when ever you take that bike out for a run..
Don’t put ethanol fuel in the bike
I would always drain the float bowl
Good gas in the tank bad gas in the float bowl
Your idle jet may be clogged if it won’t run without the choke
Best of luck
points
late model posties dont have points... CDI...
And it did show spark enough to sustain an idle at least ...
Hey John, when did they go CDI?. You said it's different later models?.
I'll drop you an email, to much info to put here. Should be there Saturday
Clean the carburetor and reset the sparkplug gap.....
I'd swap out the key assembly to see if it would shut off
In the future shut off the gas let it run till it quits
This brother reminds me like a tony hawk character game 🎮 npc
ether starting fluid
get a lifan 140 engine and do a swap and breath new life into the ol girl
Good idea. A new series for Mark too
i was wondering about this as i am about to purchase a 1981 ct110 and want a good strong engine to road and trail on and i see here you suggesting the 140, is there any particular motor one should look out for for best fitting? Thanks
@@TheSuperChannel i only mentioned the lifan 140 as there are a number of people who have already done that conversion with videos on RUclips discussing issues and stuff. it bolts straight up by the look of it and all you have to do is play with the cog size to achieve the right balance of speed vs acceleration for your needs.
Not the carb, its the valves.
I'm the worst mechanic on the planet ,but I thought it was the plug. I would replace it.
carby mate
Carby dirty and sparky dirty
Battery
You will wanna put in fuel stabilizer every now and then especially if it’s gonna sit.
See Fortnine’s video on Stabilisers. Better to have a full tank of fuel if it’s sitting.
@@HJZ75driver
As someone who’s had long experiences with fuel stabilizers and such the goal is to cut down on what builds up inside the carberator not stabilize the fuel that sits around. Less clogged passages and such. He probably has to clean the carb now.
carby mate