You’ve taken on a huge issue for many sewists and created a comprehensive go to instructional video that I’m certain will be referred to again and again! Bravo on this one, Whitney!
I love that you enjoy pattern manipulation, because I do, too! I always need lots of pattern adjustments I’m 5’9” with a very large bust, small bum, and crazy long legs. When I was young and skinny, I looked like a Barbie doll. Not so Barbie-like now, since I’m a bit “fluffier” and I have the little pouch of belly from having 8 and 10 pound babies. (“Menopause Barbie”???) Even though it’s a lot of work making all of the pattern adjustments I need, I always get a little excited, because it’s like a puzzle to be solved, and it feeds the geeky part of my brain. 😃
I actually use a combination of colored erasable pencils and xtra fine line markers when marking up patterns. It helps me keep track of which line is what. :)
Thank you. It's been a few years since I have needed to adjust a princess seam "the right way". I usually use a shortcut " wing it" but but I've got a really nice fabric and a pattern I want to really fit right. My brain just wasn't wrapping my head around the two things: fba AND lowering the apex...I need to drop it at least 2 inches... I'm usually less of a visual learner The demonstration and explanation are wonderful but I really think it was the pink and purple paper that sends this over the top
Thank you Whitney, these tutorials have been really helpful. I will be making a Cashmerette Harrison shirt soon (an orange one to mimic your orange button up shirt) and I may need this knowledge as I have never sewn a princess seam before. Have you done a crotch seam adjustment video yet? I have measured my crotch seam and drawn the curve on a piece of paper but I don’t know how to apply that to the pattern piece. I find a lot of info about lengthening the crotch but not a lot about shortening it. 😊
Thanks for the FBA/lowering the apex tut. The former has a lot of steps and the latter can be a bit tricky if you need to make a large adjustment. I'm sure this will be very helpful to a lot of people.
Why wear a floppy, frumpy tee-shirt (of which most busty women cave too) when we can learn how to make adjustments for a beautifully fitted bodice? Thank you so much Whitney. Your instruction helps me address my situations. After watching this, I feel much more confident adjusting lots of my patterns that I shuffled aside. I am moving forward on those very soon. Plus, I am saving this video to watch before I attempt the adjustments that I must have. Gosh, thank you so much. ~ L
That's is very interesting! I just recently did a princess bodice and had extra fabric along the top of my busy. I obviously needed to lower the apex! I have noticed in alot of my dress patterns I have alot of room above my bust. Is this called a hollow chest? I have a 2 inch different between my high and full bust so have never felt I needed to do a small bust adjustment. Maybe I need to move the apex? Thank you so much I really enjoy learning from your videos, 💗
I bet you just need to lower the apex. 2" difference is pretty common for most pattern companies so I would assume it's not a bust adjustment as much as an apex adjustment.
Love love these fitting tutorials. What about a a square sleeve like some of the stretch and sew patterns and what about raglan sleeves. Bust is my biggest problem areas I have taken t shirt making class and when I ask about the excess material in area above bust if I need a dart. I was told you never put a dart in a knit t shirt. That made no sense to me when it looked so I’ll fitting
You can totally add a dart in a knit top, if you want. However, if you want to omit the dart, there are ways to do an FBA in a knit and omit the dart. I have a video of 3 ways to do a dartless FBA on the channel!
Would it be possible to do a 3" princess seam adjustment using this method? I have a very petite frame with a 10" Upper bust to full bust difference. Love your tutorials having just found you on youtube.
I think you make that work. This pattern already had a full bust adjustment done to it (it was the largest cup size) so if you were starting with a regular pattern piece, I think you could add 3". It would definitely be worth a try on some muslin fabric!
This is very, very helpful but when would you grade from 12 bust to 20 waist and do you do both pieces of the front? Does this FBA also increase the size at the waist like a usual FBA? Sorry for the question overload?
To answer you questions. Yes, the FBA on a princess seam does increase the waist (and possibly hip) like in a regular FBA. If you still need room at the waist after the FBA, I would suggest grading to the size that will give you that added width. If you are grading, I would grade out all the pieces from the smaller size to the larger size. Does that help?
Very interesting as usual. It looks like there’s width added horizontally on the side piece. Assuming this goes into an ungathered skirt, does the waist need to be adjusted too?
I made the Love Notions Vivace without the pleat. I just folded it over. It fits well except the apex is too high. Can I just slice the patter straight across and slide it down?
This sounds like a dumb question but when you finished the final apex 1/2 inch adjustment I couldn't tell which was the center front or side seam? I couldn't see the armhole front the neck.
I'm so sorry! I must have gone out of frame. I did the apex adjustment just along the seam line of the princess seam (so the seam between the side seam and center front). Does that help?
As always great tutorial! The contrasting papers make a much better visual. I will suggest using the dark paper for the most complex part and the light one for the rest; just my opinion after seeing the finish product
I usually use more tissue paper to do the alterations but I think I'll use coloured paper like you showed as I'll get less confused, and retrace afterwards.
Is there a reason you didn't walk the seam lines of each piece and measure them to make sure they match after the adjustments? Although it appears that you added the same amount of length to each pattern piece, the seam lines still could not match, right?
For the FBA and Apex adjustment, you don't need the waist line, you just need to know where the apex is located. On a princess seam, this is where the deepest part of the curve is located on the pattern!
My apex is a whooping 1.5 inches below my pattern apex ( and its a McCall's pattern with a D cup side front!) who at McCall's thinks someone with a D cup has an apex pointing to the stars?! 😂
Just so you know I love these tutorials. I know that if I need them they are here and comprehensive
Oh good! That is my hope, that I can build up a really great catalog of tutorials for future reference whenever anyone needs it!
What a wonderful tutorial! And, at 67, I’m very much in the FBA, lowered apex camp. Sigh…. ☺️
😂 You are not alone!
I don't know why I have such a mental block about lowering the apex but I think now I'll be in much better shape. You're right - this is so easy!
I'm glad it helped you!
Phew! I’m exhausted! Fascinated, but exhausted
😂
You’ve taken on a huge issue for many sewists and created a comprehensive go to instructional video that I’m certain will be referred to again and again! Bravo on this one, Whitney!
Oh good! I hope it's helpful!
My sister needs a FBA and I am excited to make her something using this technique. I also enjoy the manipulation and construction side of sewing.
Oh good!
I love that you enjoy pattern manipulation, because I do, too! I always need lots of pattern adjustments I’m 5’9” with a very large bust, small bum, and crazy long legs. When I was young and skinny, I looked like a Barbie doll. Not so Barbie-like now, since I’m a bit “fluffier” and I have the little pouch of belly from having 8 and 10 pound babies. (“Menopause Barbie”???) Even though it’s a lot of work making all of the pattern adjustments I need, I always get a little excited, because it’s like a puzzle to be solved, and it feeds the geeky part of my brain. 😃
I completely agree! Pattern manipulation and alterations is just like a puzzle!
I’m right there with you, 5”9 big babies , menopausal, busty ,
Small ish hips and not much bum !
Lots of adjustments!
@@catherinephillips8925 🩷
Hi Whitney. Thank you so much. What you have explained and demonstrated is so clear that I actually, at last, get it. Truly appreciated 🙏 💓 🇬🇧
Oh good!!!
I actually use a combination of colored erasable pencils and xtra fine line markers when marking up patterns. It helps me keep track of which line is what. :)
That's a great idea!
Thank you. It's been a few years since I have needed to adjust a princess seam "the right way". I usually use a shortcut " wing it" but but I've got a really nice fabric and a pattern I want to really fit right. My brain just wasn't wrapping my head around the two things: fba AND lowering the apex...I need to drop it at least 2 inches...
I'm usually less of a visual learner
The demonstration and explanation are wonderful but I really think it was the pink and purple paper that sends this over the top
I'm glad this one was helpful!
Thank you so much for this tutorial 🙂 about to go off and give it a go now 😍
Wonderful! I hope it goes well!
Another Masterclass. Thank you Whitney !
My pleasure!
Thank you Whitney, these tutorials have been really helpful. I will be making a Cashmerette Harrison shirt soon (an orange one to mimic your orange button up shirt) and I may need this knowledge as I have never sewn a princess seam before. Have you done a crotch seam adjustment video yet? I have measured my crotch seam and drawn the curve on a piece of paper but I don’t know how to apply that to the pattern piece. I find a lot of info about lengthening the crotch but not a lot about shortening it. 😊
I'd like to know about shortening the rise. Thank you for your tutorials Whitney, I benefit greatly.
I can definitely do some crotch fix videos!
Thank you! I knew your instructions would be complete and very understandable.
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the FBA/lowering the apex tut. The former has a lot of steps and the latter can be a bit tricky if you need to make a large adjustment. I'm sure this will be very helpful to a lot of people.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
That was wonderful, but I'm so glad for patterns with an FBA already 😁
Me too!!!
Love it! Looks like magic with science. Just my piece of cake !!!
Exactly!
Thanks so much. This one I needed to see in a video!
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Great video tutorial! I don't need the FBA but I do need to know how to lower the bust point. Thanks again for all your videos!
Oh good! I'm glad this was helpful!
Thank you! Very helpful knowledge that you share here.
I"m so glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this tutorial.
My pleasure!
Why wear a floppy, frumpy tee-shirt (of which most busty women cave too) when we can learn how to make adjustments for a beautifully fitted bodice? Thank you so much Whitney. Your instruction helps me address my situations. After watching this, I feel much more confident adjusting lots of my patterns that I shuffled aside. I am moving forward on those very soon. Plus, I am saving this video to watch before I attempt the adjustments that I must have. Gosh, thank you so much. ~ L
Oh good! I'm so glad this was helpful!
Thank you! Wonderful info.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it!
That's is very interesting! I just recently did a princess bodice and had extra fabric along the top of my busy. I obviously needed to lower the apex! I have noticed in alot of my dress patterns I have alot of room above my bust. Is this called a hollow chest? I have a 2 inch different between my high and full bust so have never felt I needed to do a small bust adjustment. Maybe I need to move the apex? Thank you so much I really enjoy learning from your videos, 💗
I bet you just need to lower the apex. 2" difference is pretty common for most pattern companies so I would assume it's not a bust adjustment as much as an apex adjustment.
@@TomKatStitchery thank you. I will definitely give that a try! Good timing with your video! 👍
Love love these fitting tutorials. What about a a square sleeve like some of the stretch and sew patterns and what about raglan sleeves. Bust is my biggest problem areas I have taken t shirt making class and when I ask about the excess material in area above bust if I need a dart. I was told you never put a dart in a knit t shirt. That made no sense to me when it looked so I’ll fitting
You can totally add a dart in a knit top, if you want. However, if you want to omit the dart, there are ways to do an FBA in a knit and omit the dart. I have a video of 3 ways to do a dartless FBA on the channel!
Would it be possible to do a 3" princess seam adjustment using this method? I have a very petite frame with a 10" Upper bust to full bust difference. Love your tutorials having just found you on youtube.
I think you make that work. This pattern already had a full bust adjustment done to it (it was the largest cup size) so if you were starting with a regular pattern piece, I think you could add 3". It would definitely be worth a try on some muslin fabric!
@@TomKatStitchery - Thank you for replying, I feel brave enough to give it a go now. :)
This is very, very helpful but when would you grade from 12 bust to 20 waist and do you do both pieces of the front? Does this FBA also increase the size at the waist like a usual FBA? Sorry for the question overload?
To answer you questions. Yes, the FBA on a princess seam does increase the waist (and possibly hip) like in a regular FBA. If you still need room at the waist after the FBA, I would suggest grading to the size that will give you that added width. If you are grading, I would grade out all the pieces from the smaller size to the larger size. Does that help?
Very interesting as usual. It looks like there’s width added horizontally on the side piece. Assuming this goes into an ungathered skirt, does the waist need to be adjusted too?
I totally forgot to mention that. Yes, you either need to add the extra width to the skirt, or you need to shave that added width off at the waist.
I made the Love Notions Vivace without the pleat. I just folded it over. It fits well except the apex is too high. Can I just slice the patter straight across and slide it down?
Yes. Because there is no dart to mess with, you could definitely lower it there!
This sounds like a dumb question but when you finished the final apex 1/2 inch adjustment I couldn't tell which was the center front or side seam? I couldn't see the armhole front the neck.
I'm so sorry! I must have gone out of frame. I did the apex adjustment just along the seam line of the princess seam (so the seam between the side seam and center front). Does that help?
I would like to have seen how the two adjusted pattern pieces fit/attach together.
They fit together the same as they did before since I added at the same reference points on both pieces.
As always great tutorial! The contrasting papers make a much better visual. I will suggest using the dark paper for the most complex part and the light one for the rest; just my opinion after seeing the finish product
That's a good idea! I'm glad the paper made it easier to see!
I usually use more tissue paper to do the alterations but I think I'll use coloured paper like you showed as I'll get less confused, and retrace afterwards.
Is there a reason you didn't walk the seam lines of each piece and measure them to make sure they match after the adjustments? Although it appears that you added the same amount of length to each pattern piece, the seam lines still could not match, right?
They should match, but you could definitely walk the sewing lines to make sure!
I'm confused. This vontage pattern doesn't have waist lines marked. I just cut it up and put it back the way it was because it didn't look right.
For the FBA and Apex adjustment, you don't need the waist line, you just need to know where the apex is located. On a princess seam, this is where the deepest part of the curve is located on the pattern!
What's the difference between sewing line and seam line?
I may have misspoke. The sewing line and seam line are the same thing. I think I meant to say cutting line. Sorry about that!
🇨🇦😃
❤️❤️❤️
My apex is a whooping 1.5 inches below my pattern apex ( and its a McCall's pattern with a D cup side front!) who at McCall's thinks someone with a D cup has an apex pointing to the stars?! 😂
😂 I get it! I feel like with the larger bust sizes (like mine) 1.5" is in the realm of apex lowering.