What a great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to show the work in such detail! And even redoing a step that wasn't originally filmed just to be thorough! It's very much appreciated!
I have a B26, I'll have no fear rebuilding my axle because of your video. Like the small tips of using old seals to drive new ones in place. I love you tube because of people like you, that so freely share their information. I'll donate after I get the job done. Thanks again. I'll provide update afterwards too.
This was a perfect video because B7500 with 1014 hrs was leaking at the front axle. This help me 100% to be able to fit myself. It wasn't to bad of a job time wise (2hrs on one side) the other side will go faster. thanks again. Probably will go with synthetic oil this time. I also can't believe that Kubota makes so easy to repair ourselves.
Great video! I have a 2002 L3000DT. The right front seal started to leak. Called local Kubota dealer and they said it would be about 300.00 for them to replace the seal and may be more if the bearings are bad, etc. I only have about 450 hours on this machine and this is the first time I have had a leaking problem. After watching this video, decided to tackle the problem myself. Thanks.
Thanks, and awesome to hear you're going to tackle it yourself. Definitely a pretty easy job and these front axles are very well put together. Excellent design. Good luck and let me know how you make out! Thanks
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Took it apart last night, replaced the seal, put it together today. Heading to Tractor supply to get the gear oil you recommended. I thought I had some but looked in cabinet and it was gone! Figures, have it all together now just have to add gear oil. I saved about 250.00 dollars after paying for two seals and gear oil. Thanks!!!
Really appreciate this vid! End of last season I noted a leak. I don't think it had been going on very long or was very bad but I'd prefer to take care of things before I get behind on them. My B7800 is slightly different but close enough. About 1,900 hrs and only the top seal was leaking. That seal on the hub was fine but I'm going to replace it anyway (easy enough and I'm here- inexpensive compared to the top one). And though there was some packed dirt around the hub seal area there was no leaks, and after 1,900 hrs I figure that being cleaned up an installed per stock it should continue to hold up fine. Bearings were all good. The pinion gear shows some signs of wear but I'll just run with it as I doubt I'll have a problem with it while I'm alive (tractor is getting less use that it once did). One "trick" to popping out the steering rod end link from the knuckle is to run the nut down until it's flush with the top of the stud and then pop it with a hammer: I was able to get it to easily pop out with a small brass hammer with a single quick smack; if one were to spray penetrating fluid on this in advance then it would likely be sure to always work- I just don't like beating on castings.
Great video! About to do the same on a B7800 and an L3130. Length of the video was about perfect in my opinion. I sometimes use HDPE plastic to make bushings to keep dirt out of places such as the inner bearing seal. Thanks
Awesome! I appreciate the feedback and good luck on the job. Good idea with the plastic bushings. Not a lot of room to add anything with these as you'll see when you take it apart. I think Kubota did a pretty good job with the front end. Did you happen to see my update video on this. Check it out if not. I ended up having to replace the knuckle. lpl
Haha yeah I guess you would expect a more professional tractor tech channel to be the first result. Glad it helped and good luck getting delete fixed. Make sure to check for a cracked knuckle like in the part two portion of this video
You might want to lay off that pressure washer if you have seal problems. I did not have problems till I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and painted it and then the leak started. This is a B2910 I bought last summer. I am trying to get caught up on things and there is always something new to deal with. Great video.
Nice job. Mine are both leaking. I'll need to wait until later in the spring as I have gardens to til, but figured I'd see what guys are saying about the job and how difficult it is. Thanks for the video, hope you're having a great yr.
What size shims did you get? I see multiple options when shopping on messicks. There are 2 shims in either housing. Should they both be the size thickness?
Thank you very much i work at a kabota shop this video 100 percent awesome iv never had to do a front end seal it looks like it is going to be easier than I thought thanks to you god bless and have a great day jack.welp going to work she how it goes thanks jack great job 👍👍👍👍
Right Stuff silicone barrier. It will help initially to keep dirt out, but whatever gets in can never come out so it's a double edged sword. When you get involved in lots of mud stuff like we do in the south you come to understand there is NO keeping debris out of the seals and causing them to fail. When you have a mud 4wheeler you get very good at replacing seals as quick as every couple of rides. Also, remember, almost all rear differentials in cars have exposed seals like this, and some of them last for 200k miles. The mud is finally took that seal out.
Thanks you so much. Perfect video. It definitely was not too long. I have the same machine and love it and I also need to do the seals. Thank you for putting the parts list as well. You have given us a great service for the work you put into this.👍👊
No problem and thanks so much for the feedback. Glad the video was helpful. Make sure to check out the update video. I ended up having a cracked knuckle. I think I put a link in the description of this video to it. Definitely good to check for any hairline cracks when it's a part. I learned the hard way LOL
On Amazon: *PERMATEX THE RIGHT STUFF: amzn.to/2XXsJLY *THREAD LOCK: amzn.to/38jgrjn *85w-140 GEAR OIL: amzn.to/33WNN48 *MILWAUKEE M12 RATCHET: amzn.to/2Silnwk *Got my seals at www.messicks.com
Thank you so much for this video, it was a great resource when I did the left side. Are there any concerns with how loose that bearing is in the cover housing at ~10:20? Reason for my asking is my bearing had failed and there was a lot of slop. I thought it had worn the housing down by a few thou and would cause any future bearings to prematurely fail. I went ahead and ordered a new housing and installed it. Then when doing the RH side, I had the same looseness. I am trying to figure out if I need to order a new housing for there or if I should just send it. Also , that external 45mm cir clip can die in a fire, such a pita to get off.
Thanks so much for the video. I have a B3200HSD that has the exact same front end as yours. You video was immensely helpful on showing me how to do this job! Thanks!’
I’ve had some trouble getting this back together. My tractor had the race on it like yours did, I really like the concept of taking better care of the seal. Unfortunately the replacement seal doesn’t have this & is to large to allow me to reuse it. I pulled it off & the outside shaft diameter fits the inside diameter of the seal. I think they ordered the correct seal, I just hate it when it doesn’t go back together like it came apart. Biggest problem is getting the knuckle housing remounted. It seems I’m having trouble getting the bearing to fit back on the shaft. I didn’t have much trouble removing it, used a 2x4 & hammer to dislodge it, it was a little harder than yours to get off, but it didn’t concern me. Wanted to see if you had any ideas. I’m almost at the point of giving up & taking it to the dealer to get it remounted. I don’t have a bearing press, and it looks like it would be difficult to press.
Update on my progress. Have the knuckle housing remounted & going to put in oil tomorrow. The kubota dealer ordered the wrong seal. My 2009 B3200 uses the same housing & seals as yours does. They switched during that model year to a newer housing, but mine was the older housing. Took about 5 minutes to put the seal in the housing, never could get the wrong one properly seated. Slipped the knuckle on the shaft & hit several times with a rubber mallet & it was back on. Hint to those that don’t know, like me, This was a larger size retaining ring so the holes in the retaining were larger than the nipples on my harbor freight snap ring pliers. Had a heckuva time trying to get it put back on until a friend of mine said he had the next size up pair of snap ring pliers. Within five minutes I had the snap ring in place also. Sure helps to have the right tools when you are working on something. I only worked with snap rings once before in my life. Generally this is a job I would used to have taken to the dealer to fix but it didn’t seem like it would be terribly complex and I knew it would be expensive based on labor rates. Again, this video really helped. I don’t know that I would ever have figured out the issue with the wrong seal but when I saw yours had a race on it and mine did too I knew there was a problem with the seal they ordered for me.
Please comment back , greatly appreciated . I have a 1997 B2100 that over time developed a leak in the same seal as yours , the two tractors appear practically identical other than HP . I had the seal expensively replaced by a dealer because at the time my back pain had me practically in a wheel chair , customarily I do my own maintenance. Post digression , the dealer`s bill indicated 3.5 qts of Super UDT2 fluid refill ,where I remembered that the axle was filled with 80/90 gear oil. When I questioned it, they said that the service manual allows either, and it is true that it does, that was a couple of years ago . Recently I noticed a minor weeping, about a teaspoon in 24 hrs , at the axle trunnion mounting bracket where the driveshaft side goes into the axle, the SUPER UDT2 it is getting by the pivot point O ring but not the pinion seal. I ordered all of the joint pins , O rings , pinion seal and washers for the drain and vent plugs of the wheel bevel gear cases to fix the problem, they have not arrived yet .Yesterday June 11th I worked the tractor a bit , nothing too heavy, and when I parked it I checked to see if it was weeping at the area mentioned , it was slightly more than usual , so then decided to check the axle level and when I pulled the dipstick out ...surprise surprise ...there was a puff of pressure . Yesterday was 90 degree outside temp and the exhaust tip aims directly at the left front wheel bevel gear case . I checked for an axle vent but could not find one because there isn`t one to be had. Your solution to the problem is something that I had entertained but not deemed necessary until yesterday when that puff of air pressure greeted me for the first time, I believe that the factory exhaust tip blowing on the bevel case is a major contributor of the heat that develops in the axle , far more than normal friction heat produced by the gears and the SUPER UTD2 warms up faster than the heavier 80/90 , and thereby causing the air to get hot enough to expand into pressurization levels . I will add a section of pipe or an elbow that redirects the exhaust away from the wheel and case , as well as venting the cap similarly as you have. Connecticut gets cold in winters but not cold enough to make using the 80/90 gear oil gel up , I think that the dealers want to push the SUPER UDT, now up dash 2 , because it profits them more for 3 .5 quarts than what it cost for 2 gallons of gear oil that I can buy at Runnings, I am thinking of going back to gear oil anyway , what do you think?
When using Right Stuff from Permatex this step is not needed. You simply apply an even coat (thin, very thin in this case) and put the parts back together. Read the label, but I am pretty sure you can put the transmission oil in the axle right away also.
Thanks, I needed some help how to take it apart. Not as hard as I thought it would be. My b2710 has a vent on the opposite side of the fill hole. I crushed the opening of the tube to a small opening so that stuff doesn't get in the axle. Mine is hydro-static and uses the same oil in the front axle as the transmission. I did not realize that it was that high weight oil in the front axle of the standard model.
My shuttle shift model allows for either Kubota hydraulic transmission oil or 90W gear oil in the FRONT drive axle. Everything else is the hydraulic oil.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I ended up having to use a little WD40 and the screwdriver & a hammer to free it up from the housing before prying it out.
My B7800 with a little over 700hrs just started to leak a bit and no reason after watching your video that I have to pay a dealerships labor charges to fix it.
Thanks , you video helped a lot . Were did you get you parts from ? I picked up a seal at a kubota dealer . When I took it apart I had wrong seal . Drove to another dealer to get right part . There is a hurricane in the south , parts will take 2+ weeks to get from kubota . Searched dealers with the part and found one a hour away. They were closing in 45 min so I payed on phone and they would leave part outside for me to get . Great , $64 for one seal ! I get home and open the package and it did not want go come apart( seal and race ) . I check the part number plus I watched your video several times. Finally I said I’m gonna try to pry it apart what I got to lose besides a $64 part after a half an hour of gently prying it came apart . It looks nothing like the one on your video or the one I removed from the tractor. It has a built-in seal to keep water off of it. I tapped the parts in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. I seated them with a jack under the drain plug and rotate the hub back and forth . Could not be done like you did it . This seal should be better than the old style . Please tell me where you got your parts from . I have between 3 and 4 hours in driving to get a seal , shipped to me would be great.
Hey, glad to hear the video was helpful. Sorry to hear about the troubles you're having. I didn't know they made an updated type seal. I'll have to check that out sometime if mine leaks again. I got all my parts from messicks.com. They actually came next day which was pretty sweet! Check out the update video that is linked in the description. Mine ended up leaking again after this repair and I had to replace the knuckle. Good luck getting it back together and back to work
Thanks for the vid. Kubota B21 axle seal was similar. I agree about your design flaw. This seal should have been a sealed bearing in my opinion. It was $60 with tax from local retailer. Some sealed bearings cost less than that.
@11:15 I had to use a 4 ton jack with a chain around it to press my shit back together. No matter what I did it was not going back on easily. (2018 bx23s 950h)
Not sure if you saw the update video or not but the entire knuckle actually was cracked. Started leaking again and I had to go redo it. Definitely great tractors though!
GREAT VIDEO. Thank you so much. My whole tire came off on my 7610. But the spline came out of the hub. From your video looks like the snap ring gave way.
There is a new seal part 32721-56223 and the two pieces are made together. So I am trying to figure out how the new seal is installed. I think the whole thing goes in the bottom case and you have to remove the top ring like you already did. I want to make sure how to install this new seal before wasting $65 and all that time.
Thanks for the heads-up on this. I seem to recall looking all this up several months ago and I think it might have changed since that time in which case I specifically aimed for this part number 👍
@seer7327 I just got done with this. Install new seal in bottom casting with a seal driver. Then install the upper portion and bang the lower casting on something made out of wood and it drives the metal ring made into the seal onto the upper pin casting. Easy to remove the upper casting from the axle. 4 bolts and 1 O-RING.
Pretty ghetto! My friend dont sell your self short, There are engineers with collage degrees that forgot to put vents on that axle. YOU SOLVED A PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! nice job.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow In all reality there should be a vent. I have seen the vents get plugged up by mud daubers.(I dont know if you have those in your neck of the woods)
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow In the Country of Texas we have these sting less wasp that like to lay eggs in any round hole and they use mud to seal the entrance for the larva. They are a pain in the ass as they use ANY hole(vent tube, carburator vent hole, rifle barrel, compressed air blow gun, you name it). Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!!
What a great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to show the work in such detail! And even redoing a step that wasn't originally filmed just to be thorough! It's very much appreciated!
I have a B26, I'll have no fear rebuilding my axle because of your video. Like the small tips of using old seals to drive new ones in place. I love you tube because of people like you, that so freely share their information. I'll donate after I get the job done. Thanks again. I'll provide update afterwards too.
This was a perfect video because B7500 with 1014 hrs was leaking at the front axle. This help me 100% to be able to fit myself. It wasn't to bad of a job time wise (2hrs on one side) the other side will go faster. thanks again. Probably will go with synthetic oil this time. I also can't believe that Kubota makes so easy to repair ourselves.
Great video! I have a 2002 L3000DT. The right front seal started to leak. Called local Kubota dealer and they said it would be about 300.00 for them to replace the seal and may be more if the bearings are bad, etc. I only have about 450 hours on this machine and this is the first time I have had a leaking problem. After watching this video, decided to tackle the problem myself. Thanks.
Thanks, and awesome to hear you're going to tackle it yourself. Definitely a pretty easy job and these front axles are very well put together. Excellent design. Good luck and let me know how you make out! Thanks
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Took it apart last night, replaced the seal, put it together today. Heading to Tractor supply to get the gear oil you recommended. I thought I had some but looked in cabinet and it was gone! Figures, have it all together now just have to add gear oil. I saved about 250.00 dollars after paying for two seals and gear oil. Thanks!!!
@@spike2794 Great! Not only did you save money, you learned a bunch at the same time. Good stuff! And thanks for updating me
Really appreciate this vid! End of last season I noted a leak. I don't think it had been going on very long or was very bad but I'd prefer to take care of things before I get behind on them. My B7800 is slightly different but close enough. About 1,900 hrs and only the top seal was leaking. That seal on the hub was fine but I'm going to replace it anyway (easy enough and I'm here- inexpensive compared to the top one). And though there was some packed dirt around the hub seal area there was no leaks, and after 1,900 hrs I figure that being cleaned up an installed per stock it should continue to hold up fine. Bearings were all good. The pinion gear shows some signs of wear but I'll just run with it as I doubt I'll have a problem with it while I'm alive (tractor is getting less use that it once did). One "trick" to popping out the steering rod end link from the knuckle is to run the nut down until it's flush with the top of the stud and then pop it with a hammer: I was able to get it to easily pop out with a small brass hammer with a single quick smack; if one were to spray penetrating fluid on this in advance then it would likely be sure to always work- I just don't like beating on castings.
I know nothing about Kubota tractors but this video was awesome and will make fixing our broke tractor easy! Thank you sooo much!
Great video! About to do the same on a B7800 and an L3130. Length of the video was about perfect in my opinion. I sometimes use HDPE plastic to make bushings to keep dirt out of places such as the inner bearing seal. Thanks
Awesome! I appreciate the feedback and good luck on the job. Good idea with the plastic bushings. Not a lot of room to add anything with these as you'll see when you take it apart. I think Kubota did a pretty good job with the front end. Did you happen to see my update video on this. Check it out if not. I ended up having to replace the knuckle. lpl
I just popped my B7500 seal in the driveway 10min ago. I couldn't believe this was the first google search result. Awesome! Thanks, and nice GS, also.
Haha yeah I guess you would expect a more professional tractor tech channel to be the first result. Glad it helped and good luck getting delete fixed. Make sure to check for a cracked knuckle like in the part two portion of this video
Cool to hear it popped up number one in search! Thx
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow my search was coincidentally your video title near verbatim! I’m not a pro, so I don’t wanna see pro vids :)
Great video. My B7800 is at 990 hrs and just started leaking pretty badly. Now I can be prepared for whats in store. Thank you for posting this video.
Running 90wt. oil in the front axle and never washing mud off of the knuckles will give you longer seal life.
You might want to lay off that pressure washer if you have seal problems. I did not have problems till I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and painted it and then the leak started. This is a B2910 I bought last summer. I am trying to get caught up on things and there is always something new to deal with. Great video.
I have a broken bevel gear case. Your video covered that very well.
Love how you vented the axle. Smart.
Yeah it seemed like a worthy upgrade. Hasn't leaked again yet. Crossing my fingers
Thanks for the run down on how to do these seals.
No problem Craig! I appreciate you dropping a comment
I have a New Holland, might be different in some ways. You have definitely removed some fears as to what holds them together.
Just bought my first kubota tractor and am glad to be able to research the maintenance thanks for the good video.
Right on!
Nice job.
Mine are both leaking. I'll need to wait until later in the spring as I have gardens to til, but figured I'd see what guys are saying about the job and how difficult it is.
Thanks for the video, hope you're having a great yr.
Thanks man! I'm glad you found the video helpful and good luck when you take care of the job! Hope you have a good year as well!
Great video. I'm assuming the B2410 is basically the same.
I really like how you stress about being clean.
Not many people do that.
What size shims did you get? I see multiple options when shopping on messicks. There are 2 shims in either housing. Should they both be the size thickness?
Thank you very much i work at a kabota shop this video 100 percent awesome iv never had to do a front end seal it looks like it is going to be easier than I thought thanks to you god bless and have a great day jack.welp going to work she how it goes thanks jack great job 👍👍👍👍
Geting ready to do this outer seal between the hub and the final drive on my B2601. I was really concerned!
Right Stuff silicone barrier. It will help initially to keep dirt out, but whatever gets in can never come out so it's a double edged sword. When you get involved in lots of mud stuff like we do in the south you come to understand there is NO keeping debris out of the seals and causing them to fail. When you have a mud 4wheeler you get very good at replacing seals as quick as every couple of rides. Also, remember, almost all rear differentials in cars have exposed seals like this, and some of them last for 200k miles. The mud is finally took that seal out.
Thanks you so much. Perfect video. It definitely was not too long. I have the same machine and love it and I also need to do the seals. Thank you for putting the parts list as well. You have given us a great service for the work you put into this.👍👊
No problem and thanks so much for the feedback. Glad the video was helpful. Make sure to check out the update video. I ended up having a cracked knuckle. I think I put a link in the description of this video to it. Definitely good to check for any hairline cracks when it's a part. I learned the hard way LOL
Now that's how you help people. Thanks man!
No prob man! Thank you for commenting!
Awesome video, very clear. I had a broken front axle and this video was perfect.
Thanks for the video. My B7510 is leaking and when I pull the dip stick mine has an air release sound. Gonna vent it then see how it is going forward.
Excellent video sir! Thanks for the video 🙏
YOUNG MAN ,
U DID GREAT JOB SHOW STEP BY STEP !
Thanks buddy I appreciate the encouraging comment
Thanks bro need to do that to my b7500 on the right side very helpful
have same problem on my l3901 only 350 hrs, thank you for detailed video 👍👍👍👍👍
No problem! Make sure to check for a hairline crack in the knuckle. Not sure if you saw part two or not. There is a link to it in the description
I have a 4310 same job ! Thank you it got me to get her done . Mike
On Amazon:
*PERMATEX THE RIGHT STUFF: amzn.to/2XXsJLY
*THREAD LOCK: amzn.to/38jgrjn
*85w-140 GEAR OIL: amzn.to/33WNN48
*MILWAUKEE M12 RATCHET: amzn.to/2Silnwk
*Got my seals at www.messicks.com
Nice video. You even give the torque specs. 🎯
Thank you so much for this video, it was a great resource when I did the left side. Are there any concerns with how loose that bearing is in the cover housing at ~10:20? Reason for my asking is my bearing had failed and there was a lot of slop. I thought it had worn the housing down by a few thou and would cause any future bearings to prematurely fail. I went ahead and ordered a new housing and installed it. Then when doing the RH side, I had the same looseness. I am trying to figure out if I need to order a new housing for there or if I should just send it.
Also , that external 45mm cir clip can die in a fire, such a pita to get off.
Great video. I need to do this to my BX also. Nice to see someone else do it first.
Thanks man. Yeah I think the BX is basically the same procedure
Thanks so much for the video. I have a B3200HSD that has the exact same front end as yours. You video was immensely helpful on showing me how to do this job! Thanks!’
Great to hear you found it helpful and I really appreciate the comment. Good luck on the job!
I’ve had some trouble getting this back together. My tractor had the race on it like yours did, I really like the concept of taking better care of the seal. Unfortunately the replacement seal doesn’t have this & is to large to allow me to reuse it. I pulled it off & the outside shaft diameter fits the inside diameter of the seal. I think they ordered the correct seal, I just hate it when it doesn’t go back together like it came apart.
Biggest problem is getting the knuckle housing remounted. It seems I’m having trouble getting the bearing to fit back on the shaft. I didn’t have much trouble removing it, used a 2x4 & hammer to dislodge it, it was a little harder than yours to get off, but it didn’t concern me. Wanted to see if you had any ideas. I’m almost at the point of giving up & taking it to the dealer to get it remounted. I don’t have a bearing press, and it looks like it would be difficult to press.
Update on my progress. Have the knuckle housing remounted & going to put in oil tomorrow. The kubota dealer ordered the wrong seal. My 2009 B3200 uses the same housing & seals as yours does. They switched during that model year to a newer housing, but mine was the older housing. Took about 5 minutes to put the seal in the housing, never could get the wrong one properly seated. Slipped the knuckle on the shaft & hit several times with a rubber mallet & it was back on.
Hint to those that don’t know, like me, This was a larger size retaining ring so the holes in the retaining were larger than the nipples on my harbor freight snap ring pliers. Had a heckuva time trying to get it put back on until a friend of mine said he had the next size up pair of snap ring pliers. Within five minutes I had the snap ring in place also. Sure helps to have the right tools when you are working on something.
I only worked with snap rings once before in my life. Generally this is a job I would used to have taken to the dealer to fix but it didn’t seem like it would be terribly complex and I knew it would be expensive based on labor rates.
Again, this video really helped. I don’t know that I would ever have figured out the issue with the wrong seal but when I saw yours had a race on it and mine did too I knew there was a problem with the seal they ordered for me.
@@paullee7467 sounds like you're almost there. I appreciate you adding detailed information. This will probably help others in the future. Thank you!
Great video
Very clear and no nonsense
Thanks
Doing that job, does it drain all the oil out of the axle? It didn't look like a lot of oil came out when you drained it...
Yea. Drain both sides
mine was low
Thank you so much for this video! Content like this is just so hard to find. You really did help me out so thank you. Subscribed and liked man.
Thanks Ryan!
Thank you so much, I was looking for this exact information!
Please comment back , greatly appreciated . I have a 1997 B2100 that over time developed a leak in the same seal as yours , the two tractors appear practically identical other than HP . I had the seal expensively replaced by a dealer because at the time my back pain had me practically in a wheel chair , customarily I do my own maintenance. Post digression , the dealer`s bill indicated 3.5 qts of Super UDT2 fluid refill ,where I remembered that the axle was filled with 80/90 gear oil. When I questioned it, they said that the service manual allows either, and it is true that it does, that was a couple of years ago . Recently I noticed a minor weeping, about a teaspoon in 24 hrs , at the axle trunnion mounting bracket where the driveshaft side goes into the axle, the SUPER UDT2 it is getting by the pivot point O ring but not the pinion seal.
I ordered all of the joint pins , O rings , pinion seal and washers for the drain and vent plugs of the wheel bevel gear cases to fix the problem, they have not arrived yet .Yesterday June 11th I worked the tractor a bit , nothing too heavy, and when I parked it I checked to see if it was weeping at the area mentioned , it was slightly more than usual , so then decided to check the axle level and when I pulled the dipstick out ...surprise surprise ...there was a puff of pressure . Yesterday was 90 degree outside temp and the exhaust tip aims directly at the left front wheel bevel gear case . I checked for an axle vent but could not find one because there isn`t one to be had. Your solution to the problem is something that I had entertained but not deemed necessary until yesterday when that puff of air pressure greeted me for the first time, I believe that the factory exhaust tip blowing on the bevel case is a major contributor of the heat that develops in the axle , far more than normal friction heat produced by the gears and the SUPER UTD2 warms up faster than the heavier 80/90 , and thereby causing the air to get hot enough to expand into pressurization levels .
I will add a section of pipe or an elbow that redirects the exhaust away from the wheel and case , as well as venting the cap similarly as you have.
Connecticut gets cold in winters but not cold enough to make using the 80/90 gear oil gel up , I think that the dealers want to push the SUPER UDT, now up dash 2 , because it profits them more for 3 .5 quarts than what it cost for 2 gallons of gear oil that I can buy at Runnings, I am thinking of going back to gear oil anyway , what do you think?
I have a mahindra and it was practically spot on. Thanks man!!!! 🤙✝️
No problem! Glad the video was helpful
What ft lbs torque does the 14mm bolt get? I’m referring to the middle bolt that holds the knuckle on at the top. It’s between the two 17mm bolts.
I don't have my service manual handy. Sorry if I didn't put it in the video. Let me know if you find the spec and I'll update the description. Thanks
Did you let the gasket maker tack up at all before slapping them together?
When using Right Stuff from Permatex this step is not needed. You simply apply an even coat (thin, very thin in this case) and put the parts back together. Read the label, but I am pretty sure you can put the transmission oil in the axle right away also.
Thanks, I needed some help how to take it apart. Not as hard as I thought it would be. My b2710 has a vent on the opposite side of the fill hole. I crushed the opening of the tube to a small opening so that stuff doesn't get in the axle. Mine is hydro-static and uses the same oil in the front axle as the transmission. I did not realize that it was that high weight oil in the front axle of the standard model.
My shuttle shift model allows for either Kubota hydraulic transmission oil or 90W gear oil in the FRONT drive axle. Everything else is the hydraulic oil.
Great video. Not long at all. Very specific. Thanks for this.
Thumbs up 👍 thank you for the share 😊
Great video! My top seal is not coming out so easily. Any thoughts?
Thanks. Just a screwdriver and chisel should work
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I ended up having to use a little WD40 and the screwdriver & a hammer to free it up from the housing before prying it out.
No problem! I'm glad to hear you got it
well done, very thorough.
My B7800 with a little over 700hrs just started to leak a bit and no reason after watching your video that I have to pay a dealerships labor charges to fix it.
Great video, but what happened to the shim that fell out during disassembly?
Thanks. The shim goes back inside of the knuckle when you are assembling it. It sits behind the bearing. Did I fail to mention that in the video? oops
Do you have to have the parts list/numbers. For the seals you bought?
Those looking for Part Numbers here they are:
Drive Seal
Part # 6E040-57340
Upper Knuckle Seal:
Part # 6A320-56220
I think kubota might not vent so to put slight pressure when warm to keep water out,I think some unimog pressurize diffs to stop water getting in
Great content. Thanks!
Well done brother...
Thanks , you video helped a lot . Were did you get you parts from ? I picked up a seal at a kubota dealer . When I took it apart I had wrong seal . Drove to another dealer to get right part . There is a hurricane in the south , parts will take 2+ weeks to get from kubota . Searched dealers with the part and found one a hour away. They were closing in 45 min so I payed on phone and they would leave part outside for me to get . Great , $64 for one seal ! I get home and open the package and it did not want go come apart( seal and race ) . I check the part number plus I watched your video several times. Finally I said I’m gonna try to pry it apart what I got to lose besides a $64 part after a half an hour of gently prying it came apart . It looks nothing like the one on your video or the one I removed from the tractor. It has a built-in seal to keep water off of it. I tapped the parts in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. I seated them with a jack under the drain plug and rotate the hub back and forth . Could not be done like you did it . This seal should be better than the old style . Please tell me where you got your parts from . I have between 3 and 4 hours in driving to get a seal , shipped to me would be great.
Hey, glad to hear the video was helpful. Sorry to hear about the troubles you're having. I didn't know they made an updated type seal. I'll have to check that out sometime if mine leaks again. I got all my parts from messicks.com. They actually came next day which was pretty sweet! Check out the update video that is linked in the description. Mine ended up leaking again after this repair and I had to replace the knuckle. Good luck getting it back together and back to work
Thanks for the video.
No problem. Appreciate you man
Great video.
👍👍👍👍
thank yes it was a great video and it help perfectly
Great video. made my job easier 👍
I know im late, but my bx2200 similar year kubota does build pressure in the front axle, so I had to vent it.
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the video sir nise work.we're can i get those seals
Thanks. I put the part numbers in the description. I got them from messicks.com and they came next day
Thanks for the vid. Kubota B21 axle seal was similar. I agree about your design flaw. This seal should have been a sealed bearing in my opinion. It was $60 with tax from local retailer. Some sealed bearings cost less than that.
No problem man! Glad it helped out.
@11:15 I had to use a 4 ton jack with a chain around it to press my shit back together. No matter what I did it was not going back on easily. (2018 bx23s 950h)
dont blame your buddy great tractors bad design on that my 3010 has weeped there since it was 2 year old lol
Not sure if you saw the update video or not but the entire knuckle actually was cracked. Started leaking again and I had to go redo it. Definitely great tractors though!
Hey much fluid? And how do you know it’s full?
Dude, read your owner's manual.
@@johndough9187 yawn
Thank you
No prob man!
Super helpful
Thank you!!
No prob!
GREAT VIDEO. Thank you so much. My whole tire came off on my 7610. But the spline came out of the hub. From your video looks like the snap ring gave way.
Excellent
Great video.
Thanks buddy
Good job ,Thank-you.
Thank you and no problem
I don’t see the seal part numbers in the description?
Sorry about that. I will update it when I have a chance later tonight. I got them at messicks.com. you can look them up by your model.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Got it. Thought I was going crazy! Thanks! Great video!
You could’ve went to a craft store and bought a piece of felt and cut it for the design that you want it it’s very cheap
IDK about the 85-140 oil... if you use your machine for moving snow, that stuff will be pretty damn thick.
There is a new seal part 32721-56223 and the two pieces are made together. So I am trying to figure out how the new seal is installed. I think the whole thing goes in the bottom case and you have to remove the top ring like you already did. I want to make sure how to install this new seal before wasting $65 and all that time.
Thanks for the heads-up on this. I seem to recall looking all this up several months ago and I think it might have changed since that time in which case I specifically aimed for this part number 👍
@seer7327 I just got done with this. Install new seal in bottom casting with a seal driver. Then install the upper portion and bang the lower casting on something made out of wood and it drives the metal ring made into the seal onto the upper pin casting. Easy to remove the upper casting from the axle. 4 bolts and 1 O-RING.
Pretty ghetto! My friend dont sell your self short, There are engineers with collage degrees that forgot to put vents on that axle.
YOU SOLVED A PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! nice job.
Thanks man, yeah I guess we'll see how the vent holds up in the long-run. Maybe they chose to not put a vent for some reason?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow In all reality there should be a vent. I have seen the vents get plugged up by mud daubers.(I dont know if you have those in your neck of the woods)
@@candeservices1 True. and yea I've never heard of a mud dauber.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow In the Country of Texas we have these sting less wasp that like to lay eggs in any round hole and they use mud to seal the entrance for the larva.
They are a pain in the ass as they use ANY hole(vent tube, carburator vent hole, rifle barrel, compressed air blow gun, you name it).
Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!!
@@candeservices1 oh okay got you! And happy New Year back at you!
New subscriber, ty for sharing
Cool man thanks I appreciate that!
Their not venting to protect it from the mud hole your buddy sunk it into
Very helpful