(IMPORTANT UPDATE) I was distracted when adding the resistor and installed it incorrectly. Follow these 2 pics to fix it! Picture 1) i.imgur.com/iYxlvGG.jpg?1 Picture 2) i.imgur.com/k2bf42k.jpg?1
I love that neon ossc case. Also just wanted to say thanks! I've done so much of my own modding and just improved my soldering skills overall from watching your videos and practicing. It's been very satisfying.
What's especially awesome about you is that you never ONCE talked down on the OSSC or the RetroTink. You rock dude, thank you for this! I'm gonna try this build out
@@Cain532. retro tink 2x for $149 looks pretty nice right about now. plus you can have them add the RGB multi out cable for n64 and snes. Back in stock.
Thank you so much for this Tutorial. I followed it , and it really was easy to do. I am really impressed with the quality of the picture for the price! I own a RT 2x pro , but I really prefer the ability to adjust so many different aspects, and save them as presets! I personally didn't go the Component video path. But i tested it with my Wii via component cable to see that it was working (going RGB - SCART on mine, so thanks for showing the pre-requisite for that as well) . And I have never seen the Wii with such a sharp image on a LCD TV before. Also huge thanks for you to point out all the caveats potentially waiting if components are installed in a certain (wrong) way.
Oh My god. Just when im about to purchase all of the parts needed for this scaler and start working on it you produce this amazing step by step video, you are amazing dude. Thank you
Hey Voultar, I followed your guide step by step with your updates and when I plugged it in to my power supply it started smoking so I unplugged it real quick. I was kinda sketched out by the clock board power location so I moved it to C48, which was much easier to solder to, and now it works like a charm.
Voultar, could you please add a link to the SMD Resistor and the Capacitors, please? I've looked and I'm just not sure which to get. I can solder it, but, I can't find where to buy it. And even some of that braided conductor you used (wow, its just braided wire, my bad, rofl), if you don't mind. The shopping list doesn't have these.
Why not just remove the originals and use a slightly higher value for the new capacitor, rather than stacking them up? Seems like it would be neater, and less fiddly to install.
@@A7mag3ddon Its amazing how many people have said to just remove the caps and replace them with correct ones and yet no one says which are the correct caps. Not even Voultar.
Been eyeing scalers for a while, and I just can't afford a retrotink, so I bought the GBS and components last week. I've been putting off soldering it together as I just don't have confidence in my soldering skills even after watching some other videos. I'm going to practice on some scrap boards for a bit, but this is the one I'll watch again before finally getting it done. Really appreciate the commentary you add throughout, especially explaining your reasonings for the choices you make for placement and wiring. I've learnt a lot just watching this, and you've made it feel achieveable even for a beginning like me. Cheers from the uk 👍
Great video! The web menu is really an underrated feature of this. No hot keys or obscure icons to remember, its all fleshed out so nicely. And its accessible from a smartphone, so nice!
for those of you following along at home, I'm fairly certain Voultar got ground and power confused at around 38:00 (he connects the black wire to voltage and white to ground, not the other way around); wire it up like he says because he still connected it properly, but just a note for those checking continuity like I was
Thank you Voultar! I just finished mine recently. I do have to say though, I had to watch a section of RetroRGB's video on this because I followed your instructions on how to flash the program onto the ESP8266 WIFI development board and it kept causing an error. I ended up using the LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 and mini board and it worked.
Finished the soldering for ESP8266, clock generator and the C11 cap mod yesterday. Also finished a SCART-to-RGBS-and-Cinch adapter so I can feed the signal from my PAL PS2 via Retrogaming RGB cable into the GBS-C (audio directly to OSSC). GBS-C goes to OSSC via SVGA cable. Testing today was just WOW. The picture quality is so much better compared to OSSC only. Motion Adaptive Deinterlacing was so worth the effort. I am awaiting some SMD caps and 100 Ohm resistor today, maybe there is still room for even more improvement. Thanks @Voultar for this really good optimized mod video.
Refined my GBS-C last week. I added a FOINNEX VGA2HDMI adapter (leaving the OSSC out of the chain) and chose to feed 5V from the GBS board‘s DC input to pin 9 of the VGA out. Modded the FOINNEX adapter to work with the voltage provided from VGA pin 9 so I can leave USB Power unconnected (less cabling). In case I happen to forget what I did there, I added a diode (harvested from the USB power input side of an old RPi2 donor board) to prevent voltage from Ieaking back to the power adapter of the GBS. I don‘t know why, but picture quality seems to have improved even further compared to the GBS-C -> OSSC chain. Either my OSSC (Bitfunx) is garbage or my TV set (very old Samsung LCD, around 2005 or 2006) doesn‘t like the OSSC very much. I never have been as satisfied with picture quality before as I am now. In my case OSSC only and GBS-C -> OSSC have far inferior picture quality compared to GBS-C -> FOINNEX VGA2HDMI.
Thank you so much! I never wanted to buy an OSSC because for me, the out of sync delay when changing the resolution is a deal-breaker. Since I already have a GBS around... This video made me REALLY happy.
I'm sure someone has written it before, but congrats on the way you talk to your viewership. Great way to motivate someone to do this. Welcoming, motivational, patient. Good job. PS: I've gotten some parts, but the clock generator is out of stock in Euroland Amazon... Oh well, I'll add it later.
I've always been interested in upscalers ever since i got into retro gaming, I've seen and heard it all before but none of it was ever remotely in my price range, but you REALLY caught my attention when you said the price. comparing the footage, its astonishing that it's just under $50.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I bought the parts once the video came out, but only had time to assemble it last week. I tried it today, and it's great. Thank you for posting such informative videos for us that are just learning how to build and mod game systems. Now I can't wait to see what I can accomplish next. :)
I just did a v5.1 over the weekend. There are less pins where the MCU is to be soldered in place. As it just so happens I was using a D1 Mini where D2 and GND still lined up fine with SDA and GND on the GBS.
about the vga-hdmi converter vga socket has a dedicated pin for 5v so suplying 5v on that dedicated pin of the vga output socket and then wiring it internaly in that converter you can avoid any external cable and the vga socket would still be vga standard compliant if you remove the conector plus no dangly bits. most of the vga cables carry 5v to the other side and some of the on cable converters can be directly powered by vga cable or be modyfied to be like my mini vga2hdmi is
@@micbanand technically pin no 9 on the vga vesa capable output pin 9 is also over current protected if implemented corectly because some devices use older vga pinout (without digital data ) where pin 9 is either disconected or connected to ground in theory it suposed to work like this, 5v on pin 9 and clock on pin 15 are send to monitor and it return plug and play information over pins 11 nad or 12 clock , data 1 and data 0 are compatybile with any monitor, meaning if you bridge those pins from vga to hdmi monitor info pins in that converter shown on video, it will work corectly in windows 10 identyfying resolutions suported by hdmi monitor and passing them back to vga output so windows 10 will know what to send back. i had problems with one of those converters making my laptop only showing 360p resolution when connected to my monitor, but internally wiring pins 9, 11,12 and 15 to hdmi coresponding pins gave me all my monitor avalable resolutions to chose from,some of them gave black screen because converter didn't like them but most of them worked fine up to 1080p
@@micbanand one more thing, i was using this on any crazy converter i build in the past (mostly in early 2000's) and it worked for my constructions every time for example i made a vga to composite converter out of one conexant chip found on some voodoo 1 cards (probably the only one with analog setup pins), it worked with any computer that could produce composite synch on vga connector, other wise garbled image, but it always could take 5v to power itself from graphic card in my pc's and laptops we testet it with with my friend
This felt like I was in a Kindergarten Electronics class. I say that with all love, there was no stress during the entire project, and everything was explained extremely well. Lord Voultar you are the man I don't care what Bob says about you.
Good video. The 3D printed bracket made me want to get a case with a top and bottom. You know, just to make it a little harder to bump things around on the inside where all the work was done. Keep up the good work!
I made one of these back in November of last year and it's output/features is pretty amazing for the cost. I put in about $50 total for all the parts and pieces and I am very happy. And when I still need to hook up a composite or svideo console for streaming/recording, i still have my Tink2x. Rama did a great job with the documentation for building/software (much rarer than it should be) and xps3riments did a wonderful job updating the UI as well a while back.
I literally can't thank you enough I love how you simplified things I have been having issues with my wifi module not working right im going to start from scratch and follow your build. You my friend are a master.
10uf/16V. However, stacking caps is a major PITA. I replaced them with 22uf/16V and pulled power from C48 for the clock gen since it also outputs 3.3V from the positive side. It looks a little cleaner install wise and reduces the chances of bridging to one of the resistors that goes to the quad buffer (you REALLY don't want that happen).
Voultar, does the 12-pin VGA connector work? And if it does, does it work along with the standard one? I was thinking that with a 12-pin to VGA cable and the HDMI converter attached to the other VGA one could play on a modern TV through HDMI and acquire the VGA signal for recording at the same time. That would be cool!
The 12 pin header next to the VGA-out, connects to all of the VGA connector pins of RGB,H&Vsync directly (board traces). _Also with the 8 pin header next to the VGA-in._ Since they're not driven separately, You could try with a VGA Y cable to see if there's enough signal output for both first (if you have one lying around), Though I'd pick up a $10 2-port VGA distribution amp/splitter, which is guaranteed to do the trick.
It's working! It's working!! Thank you so much for this video! Initially I had forgotten to wire SDA to D2 and could not figure out what was wrong. But now I fixed it and it's working like a dream!
When I plug the board in it flashes, installed but doesn't select the port in arduino. Pc not detecting the board Any ideas? Resolved - if you connect to the pc and its not detected its most likely the USB cable, these boards are very picky. I tried 4 different cables before the 5th one worked fine Hope it helps
How do you get an esp8266 without pins!! the ones I've ordered (even without pins in the images) still had pins on them!! I suppose I'll just have to solder onto the pins, I don't want to go through the hassle of removing them.
I'm curious about the GBS-C's ability to downscale to 240p. I want to make the GBS-C 8200 downscale to my PAL CRT (Sony trinitron KV-m2171U) over SCART. So for example, using a slim PS4 or PS3 outputting 480p (over hdmi into the GBS input via vga) and then downscaling into 240p output for my CRT. I'm looking to build my own GBS-C with an 8200 board. I understand that the GBS output over VGA gives RGBHV output, and that I'll need a sync combiner to make it produce a SCART compatible RGBS. I've got a VGA2SCART (designed by Mike Chi) to hopefully make this happen. I'll also modify a scart cable to supply a blanking voltage on SCART pin 16 to force RGB mode in my TV (as VGA2SCART doesn't supply this natively, and my TV doesn't have an RGB mode in the service menu to compensate - my PAL Triniton's service manual states it needs 1 - 3v to run a "high state" and activate RGB). Would my idea work to downscale 480p into a PAL CRT SCART compatible 240p? Any other pearls of wisdom or tips. I'm living in UK so SCART is much more abundant. (Also note that I've looked into Mike Chi's component to SCART converters and these seem a bit too much extra cost to use as an alternative piece of the output puzzle. I've also looked at some of the various small fixes/capacitor and resistor mods listed on the GitHub which I might also implement) My Life in Gaming touched on this downscale feature, though their setup was different to mine - opting for use of component. Also thanks for this guide and shedding light on Rama's incredible scaler.
I'm not trying to be negative or anything but at around 38:00 you misspoke. The side facing outwards from the IC is ground and that terminates to the pad on clk2 (which is ground), and the side coming out of the IC is positive and goes to the filtering cap on the board. I was slightly confused when watching this since I intended to use C47 or C48 to source power in ground since it's in a less congested area (rama actually uses these on the GBS wiki). Just commenting in case anyone else was confused the same way I was.
It's interesting he stated that he divorced scart because no one makes quality scart cables. I thought resurrection industries and RGC UK make good cables?
In all sincerity... this was possibly the most pleasant educational video I have ever watched. STOP SAYING "SORRY" Every shot was clear and well documented... completely unnecessary to say sorry! Great job!!! On the other hand, if you ever get over confident the pleasantness might dissipate. Keep up the great work!!!
A few videos I've watched, I can't seem to find any info about the power supply. I assume we need to use one, however my Mcbazel board didn't come with one. What is the barrel size for this board so that I can purchase an AC adapter? Thanks!
Extremely helpful, and I absolutely adore your tutorial style - I'm still a beginner at soldering, but I managed to create a GBS-Control with your tutorial! Tried it on my PS2 and the video looks brilliant!
An alternative install method is reverse mounting a PLCC socket. All the connections for the ESP8266 are available on the chip you'd usually connect the one debug wire to. This also makes it plug-n-play so if for example you're testing multiple units or you upgrade to a model with an HDMI adapter built-in you'd just transplant your socketed ESP to the other board.
tried making this and failed. followed the directions best i could, got the arduino to work, but i'm not getting any signal to my tv. don't have a clue where i went wrong
Around the 22 minute mark does it seem odd to be stacking a huge cap on top of a tiny, wouldnt it be a better option to just replace the caps with one that has the same properties as the two stacked ones?
From your video description: Also, I swapped the wire colors for the power and ground connections (white and black) for the clock-gen. Simply wire them oppositely to the clockgen board as I did! Sorry guys! I dont quite understand what you did wrong and what I have to do differently. Cheers!
Thanks Voultar I'm going to be ordering all the parts for this tonight and giving it a go 👌👌 I just got the hyper neogeo 64 and this should clean up the 480i perfect
Now this was a fantastic video to watch. I'm yet to get an upscaler and this would definitely be enough for my needs. I just need to think if my soldering skills are up to the job.
I probably lack the manual expertise to do this thing, and I already have an Xrgb-mini and a Retrotink-5x, but it's nice having alternatives. Not only because it's a way cheaper one, but also because the upscaling solutions may complement each other and be useful in different situations.
Any recomendations for composite? Maybe a cheap ebay rca to vga converter, a koryuu, retrotink 2x mini, or another cheap build? Of course to add infront of the gbs.
Your videos have been quite helpful, I finished a NESRGB mod the other day! I'll just say that it was my first attempt so some things may or may not have gone wrong... but it's all a learning experience!
at 38:24 you put your vin lead to a pad that is a GND isnt it? I checked with a multimeter on mine, and all those side pads for the CLK I/O come back for me as GND.
he's just talking in reverse, not sure why, i:e power flow vs electron flow maybe? but you can see his high potential side of the capacitor goes to the resistor (black wire) and the low side to ground(at clk i/o)
Why not take the surface mount capacitors off the board and replace with a new capacitor for the desired total capacitance? Instead of this 'stacking' method (which looks tougher to me than just replacing?)
Because, Voultar is trying to stay as close to the original instructions provided by RAMA who created this mod. RAMA clearly says to stack the "SMD capacitors in parallel to stock ones"
Not worth it really. Can't sell it for more than $75-80 because you're getting into OSSC territory at much more. Is $30-ish profit per board worth the effort? Not to me. This really is just for the DIY crowd.
@@schweatty Not doing what is done in the video, and then selling it. Redoing the PCB and manufacture it from the start with the right components etc. It shouldn’t be much more expensive to make, and should maintain the normal profit margins of the original manufacturer.
"This chip is sensitive to interference" *glues a signal generator to it* Uhhhhhh. Hey Voultar I get that 2.4GHz and 8MHz is different, but gods this feels insane.
Hey, Voultar - another great video! I'm ordering parts for this project now and I have a clarification question about the ceramic capacitor recommendation you made in the video. You say, "Anything above 10 volts is perfectly fine." To be clear, does that mean it really should be above 10 volts for some reason? Or would that include 10 volts as being "perfectly fine", but you recommend more because of some reason? I ask because I'm having trouble finding 10uf ceramic capacitors from brands I recognize with values above 10 volts on Ebay. I'll order from wherever, that was just the first place I checked because I need some other stuff from Ebay, as well. Thanks for the great content! Still hoping you bring back the "Legend of the Douche" or "Bad Modwork Repair" series of videos, by the way. Aside from the hilarious commentary, they truly serve as a great example to noobs like myself of what not to do and why, as well as how to fix mistakes. Cheers!
Thanks for this video. Would this board remove the jailbars on a Sega Master System ? Right now with the HD Retrovision cables I have the "jailbars". Very annoying Or do you still have to mod the Sega Master System itself ?
Wow, amazing, I’m gonna build one for myself, any links to buy the capacitors? I already bought the other pieces from your amazon link. Thank you so much!
Voultar - I followed your guide 100% Thank you - but please read: Your video is actually correct for the power/gnd of the clock gen. I actually followed your instructions of doing the opposite in the description, which turned out to be wrong! I put it back to how it is in the video and all is well.
Always love watching your work. One thing I was hoping you would do for the USB power connector was to remove the pins from the 5V connector and just crimp some terminals using the original USB cable, and then just shove the terminals back into the connector.
Hey man. when i was trying to solder the wire at 36:59 the trace to which the pin itself was connected just came off. the trace from the board. is there any way to retrace it or is the board cooked ?
Does it accept composite, or only component? I would eventually upgrade all of my cables, but if I'm building this instead of buying a retrotink, I'm worried about cost and not upgrading all of my cables right away.
The quality of the ADC for HDMI makes a big difference with a GBS-C setup, many of them have bad colors or other issues. If you need HDMI, it turns out that the OSSC is what currently will give you the best results, but of course you're then adding +$120 to the cost :P Something else worth noting is that the default 1280x960 output mode will give you a better picture with less noise than 1080p, at the cost of filling up less of your screen. Oh and one more thing: you don't need to do the SCART stuff if you feed RGBS via the D-Sub ("VGA") input connector. Those with SCART setups can just use a SCART to D-Sub15 patch cable (maybe in some cases a sync stripper may also be required?). Edit: actually removing the pots will be something you want to do if you'll be using RGBS inputs, SCART or not.
I know the GBS Control has its limitations with 1080p and its aspect ratio, but after remembering all the parts used for the original GBS-82XX boards (and the HDMI variants with SCART and component inputs) and even seeing custom boards like the Mcbazel ODV variant (which is still able to be updatable with the software from Rama), but I've thought of an idea that could work with all GBS control boards including the Mcbazel ODV variant I have (call me crazy if you will): "having an Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 to not only override the current chipset of the GBS-82XX series boards' limitations, but to also enhance the picture quality to also fix the aspect ratio switching for all resolutions, and even use the MKR Vidor 4000 to work in conjunction with the GBSC to 4K60 or 4K30, and to also work as a small FPGA decoder for composite video to work with composite video and S-Video via the green component port or with a SCART adapter." I know it sounds silly and crazy, but to me it sounds like a good idea. And according to one Arduino forum about the MKR Vidor 4000, it's actually possible to store an input of 1080p60 to the SDRAM, so IF the FPGA on the MKR Vidor 4000 could override the current ASIC (which I am assuming is the one surface mounted chip with the heatsink on top) by finding the right pins for soldering some jumper wires to fix aspect ratio issues and hardware limitations (kinda similar how Tim Worthington's NESRGB kit or the NES Lava RGB kit which I did just find out about can override the original NES hardware's picture limitations to output RGB) so having someone else to program the MKR Vidor 4000 could actually work in conjunction with the GBSC Project with the right solder points regardless if using the original GBS-82XX boards or the HDMI variants, or custom-made ones like my Mcbazel ODV one which has a built in clock generator.
Nicely done! The only thing I would have done different is the kapton tape on the bottom of the clock board. It is easier to just paint the bottom of the board with nail polish. Nail polish is easier to find and can be used as a solder mask on custom made home cut boards so it is a great insulator.
i thought nail polish was confirmed as being an inherantly bad option and it's just best to get a can of conformal coating for not much more dosh? afaik it's not only cause of cleaning it off during later repairs is a pain/potentially caustic, nor it's easy to unkowingly gimp thermal emission on pins/VIAs to danger levels from too thick of a layer, but even clear NAIL POLISH is just designed completely wrong for this use case as it's an organic resin meant for temporarilly decorating impactable living bone (keratin), *NOT* for permanently boxing copper/glue/plastics/epoxy/fibreglass/etc that, during application, *may* react with the solvents in the NAIL PAINT that keep it goopy to apply as a liquid as the solvents evapourate (same with model car clear varnishes, which some can even eat away the solder mask as it sets, so when you clean it off/it degrages off you may have live bare exposed power traces, yum!)... a proper spray can of acrylic/silicone conformal coating won't cost much in the long run, won't crack/chip, can be soldered through (i.e. no acetone bath like removing polish; just flux) and with a nozzle/straw switch can be quite controllable, WITHOUT running the risk of organic acids/salts forming from the resins & plasticisers breaking down or impacting thermals OR non-spec solvents melting away your board and components, *whilst being a guaranteed non-electrically conductive, waterproof, fire retardant that glows in UV light* ..... yeah, don't pizza when you wanna french fry. get yourself some ambersil or mg, dawg.
I love how you comment everything like the viewer does it and you compliment the viewer. But basically you compliment yourself. 😂 😊 Fun to watch and I think I learned something 👍
(IMPORTANT UPDATE)
I was distracted when adding the resistor and installed it incorrectly. Follow these 2 pics to fix it!
Picture 1) i.imgur.com/iYxlvGG.jpg?1
Picture 2) i.imgur.com/k2bf42k.jpg?1
Also a suggestion,
simply a suggestion, your videos are the best
I love your videos.
Why stack caps when you can just replace with the correct rated caps. Is it just you had them laying around and didn't want to order?
So the top one Is incorrect and it's the bottom one with the exposed trace?
My wife heard me watching this from upstairs and asked, "what the heck are you listening to? it sounds religious." I said yes.
Christ! of Latter Day Saints, I love Voultar!
P R E A C H ! ! !
Church, Tabernacle :-)
LMAO 🤣
It kinda did sound religious until he said, “Ardildo”.
"Watch the resolution change" gets hit with a commercial
It happened to me too, what a coincidence!
Yup me too lol.
Ooh!... Baby Dove, followed by Cap n' Crunch!
But was the resolution different?
The god damn Bob Ross of retro gaming.
True, but he's going to have to get that hair permed for full effect.
Rofl, this made me laugh out loud
also called the bob ross of soldering
I usually smoking some happy trees while watching his videos
for real i come too and it was like 41.00 mins in
I love that neon ossc case. Also just wanted to say thanks! I've done so much of my own modding and just improved my soldering skills overall from watching your videos and practicing. It's been very satisfying.
"Does Retro RGB suck?" video liked
Does he really hate retro rgb or is it an inside joke?
@@jjhh4096 he's joking lol
I literally clicked the like button while I choked on my food when he said that. Damn near (literally) killed me.
That was like 5 milsec and you got it, lol
What's especially awesome about you is that you never ONCE talked down on the OSSC or the RetroTink. You rock dude, thank you for this! I'm gonna try this build out
did you try it?
@@Grant-H2O not yet, sorry 😞
@@Cain532. retro tink 2x for $149 looks pretty nice right about now. plus you can have them add the RGB multi out cable for n64 and snes. Back in stock.
@@Grant-H2O I'm saving up for the 5x pro
@@Cain532. Nice!
I made three of them, one for me, one for my oldest daughter, and one to donate to some random psx enthusiast.
They work amazingly well. Great stuff!
Thank you so much for this Tutorial. I followed it , and it really was easy to do. I am really impressed with the quality of the picture for the price! I own a RT 2x pro , but I really prefer the ability to adjust so many different aspects, and save them as presets! I personally didn't go the Component video path. But i tested it with my Wii via component cable to see that it was working (going RGB - SCART on mine, so thanks for showing the pre-requisite for that as well) . And I have never seen the Wii with such a sharp image on a LCD TV before. Also huge thanks for you to point out all the caveats potentially waiting if components are installed in a certain (wrong) way.
Oh My god. Just when im about to purchase all of the parts needed for this scaler and start working on it you produce this amazing step by step video, you are amazing dude. Thank you
just over a minute in and Bob's getting it tight already.
Hey Voultar, I followed your guide step by step with your updates and when I plugged it in to my power supply it started smoking so I unplugged it real quick.
I was kinda sketched out by the clock board power location so I moved it to C48, which was much easier to solder to, and now it works like a charm.
What kind of power supply do you need for this? what type of 5V Plug?
Voultar, could you please add a link to the SMD Resistor and the Capacitors, please? I've looked and I'm just not sure which to get. I can solder it, but, I can't find where to buy it. And even some of that braided conductor you used (wow, its just braided wire, my bad, rofl), if you don't mind. The shopping list doesn't have these.
The RetroRGB bromance continues.
For real though, thanks, man. You’ve done more for this community than we can ever thank you for.
Finally, someone made a tutorial on how to add those 0805 capacitors. This was super helpful thank you.
Yeah, I spent so much time running around forums finding actual descent pics. to replicate it.
Why not just remove the originals and use a slightly higher value for the new capacitor, rather than stacking them up? Seems like it would be neater, and less fiddly to install.
@@axi0matic Yeah, that janky hack was unnecessary. Removing those SMD caps are super easy, just order higher values and replace them.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 what values would that be?
@@A7mag3ddon Its amazing how many people have said to just remove the caps and replace them with correct ones and yet no one says which are the correct caps. Not even Voultar.
Been eyeing scalers for a while, and I just can't afford a retrotink, so I bought the GBS and components last week. I've been putting off soldering it together as I just don't have confidence in my soldering skills even after watching some other videos. I'm going to practice on some scrap boards for a bit, but this is the one I'll watch again before finally getting it done. Really appreciate the commentary you add throughout, especially explaining your reasonings for the choices you make for placement and wiring. I've learnt a lot just watching this, and you've made it feel achieveable even for a beginning like me. Cheers from the uk 👍
Great video! The web menu is really an underrated feature of this. No hot keys or obscure icons to remember, its all fleshed out so nicely. And its accessible from a smartphone, so nice!
for those of you following along at home, I'm fairly certain Voultar got ground and power confused at around 38:00 (he connects the black wire to voltage and white to ground, not the other way around); wire it up like he says because he still connected it properly, but just a note for those checking continuity like I was
I missed it and wired it the wrong way.
LED turned on after I fixed it, I'm sure it's fine.
Besides having an OSSC I also made 2 GBS-Cs because I always find a use for them.
Aren't they awesome for the cost of making them?! They're truly an unsung and relatively unknown hero in our community!
I didn't even know this was a thing. I'm going to make one even just to have as a backup. And for funzies
@44:13 The Bob Ross comparison is spot on and oh!!! look who it is. Great video BTW
Thank you Voultar! I just finished mine recently. I do have to say though, I had to watch a section of RetroRGB's video on this because I followed your instructions on how to flash the program onto the ESP8266 WIFI development board and it kept causing an error. I ended up using the LOLIN(WEMOS) D1 R2 and mini board and it worked.
Finished the soldering for ESP8266, clock generator and the C11 cap mod yesterday. Also finished a SCART-to-RGBS-and-Cinch adapter so I can feed the signal from my PAL PS2 via Retrogaming RGB cable into the GBS-C (audio directly to OSSC). GBS-C goes to OSSC via SVGA cable.
Testing today was just WOW. The picture quality is so much better compared to OSSC only. Motion Adaptive Deinterlacing was so worth the effort. I am awaiting some SMD caps and 100 Ohm resistor today, maybe there is still room for even more improvement.
Thanks @Voultar for this really good optimized mod video.
Refined my GBS-C last week. I added a FOINNEX VGA2HDMI adapter (leaving the OSSC out of the chain) and chose to feed 5V from the GBS board‘s DC input to pin 9 of the VGA out.
Modded the FOINNEX adapter to work with the voltage provided from VGA pin 9 so I can leave USB Power unconnected (less cabling). In case I happen to forget what I did there, I added a diode (harvested from the USB power input side of an old RPi2 donor board) to prevent voltage from Ieaking back to the power adapter of the GBS.
I don‘t know why, but picture quality seems to have improved even further compared to the GBS-C -> OSSC chain. Either my OSSC (Bitfunx) is garbage or my TV set (very old Samsung LCD, around 2005 or 2006) doesn‘t like the OSSC very much. I never have been as satisfied with picture quality before as I am now. In my case OSSC only and GBS-C -> OSSC have far inferior picture quality compared to GBS-C -> FOINNEX VGA2HDMI.
Thanks for making more videos Voultar, always great content.
Thank you so much! I never wanted to buy an OSSC because for me, the out of sync delay when changing the resolution is a deal-breaker. Since I already have a GBS around... This video made me REALLY happy.
I'm sure someone has written it before, but congrats on the way you talk to your viewership. Great way to motivate someone to do this. Welcoming, motivational, patient.
Good job.
PS: I've gotten some parts, but the clock generator is out of stock in Euroland Amazon... Oh well, I'll add it later.
Your advice during the tough installations was INSANELY helpful! Thank you so much for making this video!
I've always been interested in upscalers ever since i got into retro gaming, I've seen and heard it all before but none of it was ever remotely in my price range, but you REALLY caught my attention when you said the price. comparing the footage, its astonishing that it's just under $50.
This is like Mr. Carlson's Lab, but with vintage gaming stuff. Great info!
omg you're right!!! never even realized it but you're absolutely right lol
@@dregenius They even sound similar, and pronounce "solder" the same way.
Thanks so much for this, your instructions are easy to follow! I went ahead and ordered a GBS board to mod.
No one does it better! Looking forward to building one myself, thank you for the excellent step-by-step guide.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I bought the parts once the video came out, but only had time to assemble it last week. I tried it today, and it's great. Thank you for posting such informative videos for us that are just learning how to build and mod game systems. Now I can't wait to see what I can accomplish next. :)
I see you're using a v4.0 revision of the board, but I've found a v5.1 for cheap - any idea if any of the soldering tasks would be different?
I just did a v5.1 over the weekend. There are less pins where the MCU is to be soldered in place. As it just so happens I was using a D1 Mini where D2 and GND still lined up fine with SDA and GND on the GBS.
Oh yeah, and 5V I grabbed from a spot that was meant to have a diode, near the described spot, but instead had a 0 ohm resistor.
about the vga-hdmi converter
vga socket has a dedicated pin for 5v so suplying 5v on that dedicated pin of the vga output socket and then wiring it internaly in that converter you can avoid any external cable and the vga socket would still be vga standard compliant if you remove the conector plus no dangly bits. most of the vga cables carry 5v to the other side and some of the on cable converters can be directly powered by vga cable or be modyfied to be like my mini vga2hdmi is
what vga pin is 5v? :)
@@micbanand technically pin no 9 on the vga vesa capable output
pin 9 is also over current protected if implemented corectly because some devices use older vga pinout (without digital data ) where pin 9 is either disconected or connected to ground
in theory it suposed to work like this, 5v on pin 9 and clock on pin 15 are send to monitor and it return plug and play information over pins 11 nad or 12
clock , data 1 and data 0 are compatybile with any monitor, meaning if you bridge those pins from vga to hdmi monitor info pins in that converter shown on video, it will work corectly in windows 10 identyfying resolutions suported by hdmi monitor and passing them back to vga output so windows 10 will know what to send back. i had problems with one of those converters making my laptop only showing 360p resolution when connected to my monitor, but internally wiring pins 9, 11,12 and 15 to hdmi coresponding pins gave me all my monitor avalable resolutions to chose from,some of them gave black screen because converter didn't like them but most of them worked fine up to 1080p
@@micbanand one more thing, i was using this on any crazy converter i build in the past (mostly in early 2000's) and it worked for my constructions every time for example i made a vga to composite converter out of one conexant chip found on some voodoo 1 cards (probably the only one with analog setup pins), it worked with any computer that could produce composite synch on vga connector, other wise garbled image, but it always could take 5v to power itself from graphic card in my pc's and laptops we testet it with with my friend
This felt like I was in a Kindergarten Electronics class. I say that with all love, there was no stress during the entire project, and everything was explained extremely well. Lord Voultar you are the man I don't care what Bob says about you.
Good video. The 3D printed bracket made me want to get a case with a top and bottom. You know, just to make it a little harder to bump things around on the inside where all the work was done. Keep up the good work!
I made one of these back in November of last year and it's output/features is pretty amazing for the cost. I put in about $50 total for all the parts and pieces and I am very happy. And when I still need to hook up a composite or svideo console for streaming/recording, i still have my Tink2x. Rama did a great job with the documentation for building/software (much rarer than it should be) and xps3riments did a wonderful job updating the UI as well a while back.
Nice, I just need to test mine out
I literally can't thank you enough I love how you simplified things I have been having issues with my wifi module not working right im going to start from scratch and follow your build. You my friend are a master.
What is the capacitance of the existing caps that the 10uF caps are being stacked on top of? (C23/C41/C42/C48)
most likely 1uf or 10uf
10uf/16V. However, stacking caps is a major PITA. I replaced them with 22uf/16V and pulled power from C48 for the clock gen since it also outputs 3.3V from the positive side. It looks a little cleaner install wise and reduces the chances of bridging to one of the resistors that goes to the quad buffer (you REALLY don't want that happen).
Voultar, does the 12-pin VGA connector work? And if it does, does it work along with the standard one? I was thinking that with a 12-pin to VGA cable and the HDMI converter attached to the other VGA one could play on a modern TV through HDMI and acquire the VGA signal for recording at the same time. That would be cool!
I'm also interested in this.
The 12 pin header next to the VGA-out, connects to all of the VGA connector pins of RGB,H&Vsync directly (board traces). _Also with the 8 pin header next to the VGA-in._
Since they're not driven separately, You could try with a VGA Y cable to see if there's enough signal output for both first (if you have one lying around), Though I'd pick up a $10 2-port VGA distribution amp/splitter, which is guaranteed to do the trick.
the 8220 has dual VGA outputs...
It's working! It's working!! Thank you so much for this video! Initially I had forgotten to wire SDA to D2 and could not figure out what was wrong. But now I fixed it and it's working like a dream!
The picture I get from my 2-chip SNES with this upscaler is absolutely incredible. Thanks for the video!!
When I plug the board in it flashes, installed but doesn't select the port in arduino. Pc not detecting the board Any ideas?
Resolved - if you connect to the pc and its not detected its most likely the USB cable, these boards are very picky. I tried 4 different cables before the 5th one worked fine
Hope it helps
How do you get an esp8266 without pins!! the ones I've ordered (even without pins in the images) still had pins on them!! I suppose I'll just have to solder onto the pins, I don't want to go through the hassle of removing them.
I just did this last night, had to remove all the damn pins on it. Took 20 mins but the other / top side has pins still in.
I'm curious about the GBS-C's ability to downscale to 240p.
I want to make the GBS-C 8200 downscale to my PAL CRT (Sony trinitron KV-m2171U) over SCART. So for example, using a slim PS4 or PS3 outputting 480p (over hdmi into the GBS input via vga) and then downscaling into 240p output for my CRT.
I'm looking to build my own GBS-C with an 8200 board. I understand that the GBS output over VGA gives RGBHV output, and that I'll need a sync combiner to make it produce a SCART compatible RGBS. I've got a VGA2SCART (designed by Mike Chi) to hopefully make this happen. I'll also modify a scart cable to supply a blanking voltage on SCART pin 16 to force RGB mode in my TV (as VGA2SCART doesn't supply this natively, and my TV doesn't have an RGB mode in the service menu to compensate - my PAL Triniton's service manual states it needs 1 - 3v to run a "high state" and activate RGB).
Would my idea work to downscale 480p into a PAL CRT SCART compatible 240p? Any other pearls of wisdom or tips.
I'm living in UK so SCART is much more abundant.
(Also note that I've looked into Mike Chi's component to SCART converters and these seem a bit too much extra cost to use as an alternative piece of the output puzzle. I've also looked at some of the various small fixes/capacitor and resistor mods listed on the GitHub which I might also implement)
My Life in Gaming touched on this downscale feature, though their setup was different to mine - opting for use of component.
Also thanks for this guide and shedding light on Rama's incredible scaler.
I'm not trying to be negative or anything but at around 38:00 you misspoke. The side facing outwards from the IC is ground and that terminates to the pad on clk2 (which is ground), and the side coming out of the IC is positive and goes to the filtering cap on the board. I was slightly confused when watching this since I intended to use C47 or C48 to source power in ground since it's in a less congested area (rama actually uses these on the GBS wiki). Just commenting in case anyone else was confused the same way I was.
The Parasite Eve soundtrack a beautiful touch
wasn't it alundra's ?
@@MickNavarro towards the end it was the parasite Eve Central Park song
and star ocean 2 i guess it's a mix of ps1 titles :)
And Legend of Mana. Very chill PS1 beats.
Edit: FF9 main theme!
Is there any chance that you will show us how to build a proper and safe to use SCART input?
Would also love to see that as I am aiming to use that with my PS1 console via RGB cable!
It's interesting he stated that he divorced scart because no one makes quality scart cables. I thought resurrection industries and RGC UK make good cables?
Great to see you up and around and feeling better post-covid shots.
Sharing info for the betterment of the retro community. Thanks, comrade!
In all sincerity... this was possibly the most pleasant educational video I have ever watched. STOP SAYING "SORRY" Every shot was clear and well documented... completely unnecessary to say sorry! Great job!!! On the other hand, if you ever get over confident the pleasantness might dissipate. Keep up the great work!!!
A few videos I've watched, I can't seem to find any info about the power supply. I assume we need to use one, however my Mcbazel board didn't come with one. What is the barrel size for this board so that I can purchase an AC adapter? Thanks!
2.1 x 5.5 center positive 5V. 2A or higher to make sure it supplies enough juice with the added power draws.
@@seanm1738 Thank you!
Extremely helpful, and I absolutely adore your tutorial style - I'm still a beginner at soldering, but I managed to create a GBS-Control with your tutorial! Tried it on my PS2 and the video looks brilliant!
An alternative install method is reverse mounting a PLCC socket.
All the connections for the ESP8266 are available on the chip you'd usually connect the one debug wire to.
This also makes it plug-n-play so if for example you're testing multiple units or you upgrade to a model with an HDMI adapter built-in you'd just transplant your socketed ESP to the other board.
Brilliant as always, I’ve been curious about the diy solutions in this space for a while now. Thanks for sharing this one
tried making this and failed. followed the directions best i could, got the arduino to work, but i'm not getting any signal to my tv. don't have a clue where i went wrong
I absolutely love the timing of this video release related to the new video from Epos Vox... Absolutely going to strap on for this.
8 months later i finally finished building mine. thanks man it's awesome!
I love how calm and smooth this is. You almost don't notice the ardildo comment
Around the 22 minute mark does it seem odd to be stacking a huge cap on top of a tiny, wouldnt it be a better option to just replace the caps with one that has the same properties as the two stacked ones?
The larger capacitor has better DC biasing properties. If it were me, I would just simply stack or a use a T.H. ceramic on top of the existing.
@@Voultar Why not use a single cap with the right properties?
From your video description: Also, I swapped the wire colors for the power and ground connections (white and black) for the clock-gen. Simply wire them oppositely to the clockgen board as I did! Sorry guys!
I dont quite understand what you did wrong and what I have to do differently. Cheers!
@voultar Can you tell us what capacitors you used? Maybe a link to them?
Goddamned man, you gave me a nostalgia trip with those songs you played during the video.
Thanks Voultar I'm going to be ordering all the parts for this tonight and giving it a go 👌👌 I just got the hyper neogeo 64 and this should clean up the 480i perfect
Thanks ever so much Voultar! I am gonna build one of those for sure!!! You live in my heart!
Now this was a fantastic video to watch. I'm yet to get an upscaler and this would definitely be enough for my needs. I just need to think if my soldering skills are up to the job.
I probably lack the manual expertise to do this thing, and I already have an Xrgb-mini and a Retrotink-5x, but it's nice having alternatives. Not only because it's a way cheaper one, but also because the upscaling solutions may complement each other and be useful in different situations.
Any recomendations for composite? Maybe a cheap ebay rca to vga converter, a koryuu, retrotink 2x mini, or another cheap build? Of course to add infront of the gbs.
Your videos have been quite helpful, I finished a NESRGB mod the other day! I'll just say that it was my first attempt so some things may or may not have gone wrong... but it's all a learning experience!
Glad to see you back in full effect!
Fantastic music taste as always and got a new project to do sometime soon. Well done.
I have a question, could it also be used as a cheap Time Base Corrector for capturing videos from a VHS ?
"Ooh hooo"..spit my coffee out. Wasn't expecting it.
at 38:24 you put your vin lead to a pad that is a GND isnt it? I checked with a multimeter on mine, and all those side pads for the CLK I/O come back for me as GND.
he's just talking in reverse, not sure why, i:e power flow vs electron flow maybe? but you can see his high potential side of the capacitor goes to the resistor (black wire) and the low side to ground(at clk i/o)
Why not take the surface mount capacitors off the board and replace with a new capacitor for the desired total capacitance? Instead of this 'stacking' method (which looks tougher to me than just replacing?)
Yeah I was wondering that too. Strange.
The easiest thing to do is to not take any advice from Voultar. His soldering skills are awful.
@@2dfx And where are your videos demonstrating your expert soldering skills?
@@TheDainerss I'll snap you some of that guuud shit
Because, Voultar is trying to stay as close to the original instructions provided by RAMA who created this mod. RAMA clearly says to stack the "SMD capacitors in parallel to stock ones"
Thanks for putting this together. Saves me a lot of work to figure it out.
Surprised nobody has taken that board and build a new version with the mods (and HDMI out). Seems like it would kill as a pre-built solution.
Not worth it really. Can't sell it for more than $75-80 because you're getting into OSSC territory at much more. Is $30-ish profit per board worth the effort? Not to me. This really is just for the DIY crowd.
@@schweatty Not doing what is done in the video, and then selling it. Redoing the PCB and manufacture it from the start with the right components etc. It shouldn’t be much more expensive to make, and should maintain the normal profit margins of the original manufacturer.
"This chip is sensitive to interference"
*glues a signal generator to it*
Uhhhhhh. Hey Voultar I get that 2.4GHz and 8MHz is different, but gods this feels insane.
Voultar, your videos are a real treat. Informative and hilarious. Excellent work. Thank you!
Hey, Voultar - another great video!
I'm ordering parts for this project now and I have a clarification question about the ceramic capacitor recommendation you made in the video. You say, "Anything above 10 volts is perfectly fine." To be clear, does that mean it really should be above 10 volts for some reason? Or would that include 10 volts as being "perfectly fine", but you recommend more because of some reason? I ask because I'm having trouble finding 10uf ceramic capacitors from brands I recognize with values above 10 volts on Ebay. I'll order from wherever, that was just the first place I checked because I need some other stuff from Ebay, as well.
Thanks for the great content! Still hoping you bring back the "Legend of the Douche" or "Bad Modwork Repair" series of videos, by the way. Aside from the hilarious commentary, they truly serve as a great example to noobs like myself of what not to do and why, as well as how to fix mistakes. Cheers!
What size is barrel jack for the PSU?
Thanks Voultar, you just gave us a beautiful one. Now... May the solder god be with me and my shaky hands!
Thanks for this video.
Would this board remove the jailbars on a Sega Master System ? Right now with the HD Retrovision cables I have the "jailbars". Very annoying
Or do you still have to mod the Sega Master System itself ?
Music in this video was 10/10, fantastic guide start to finish.
What u smokin with the aviators mackin, hope u lit it with the solder iron
when adding caps, why not replacing the original ones?
What's compatibility like with TVs? IMO the achilles of the OSSC is that it really is hit and miss as to which TVs it will work with.
Wow, amazing, I’m gonna build one for myself, any links to buy the capacitors? I already bought the other pieces from your amazon link. Thank you so much!
Voultar - I followed your guide 100% Thank you - but please read: Your video is actually correct for the power/gnd of the clock gen. I actually followed your instructions of doing the opposite in the description, which turned out to be wrong! I put it back to how it is in the video and all is well.
Loved the FF7 and Pilotwings tracks, so fitting
Always love watching your work. One thing I was hoping you would do for the USB power connector was to remove the pins from the 5V connector and just crimp some terminals using the original USB cable, and then just shove the terminals back into the connector.
Hey man. when i was trying to solder the wire at 36:59 the trace to which the pin itself was connected just came off. the trace from the board. is there any way to retrace it or is the board cooked ?
Really digging the positive vibes on this one. Thanks for the info dude.
Surprised myself that I could actually do this, thanks for great tutorial.
Does it accept composite, or only component? I would eventually upgrade all of my cables, but if I'm building this instead of buying a retrotink, I'm worried about cost and not upgrading all of my cables right away.
The quality of the ADC for HDMI makes a big difference with a GBS-C setup, many of them have bad colors or other issues. If you need HDMI, it turns out that the OSSC is what currently will give you the best results, but of course you're then adding +$120 to the cost :P Something else worth noting is that the default 1280x960 output mode will give you a better picture with less noise than 1080p, at the cost of filling up less of your screen. Oh and one more thing: you don't need to do the SCART stuff if you feed RGBS via the D-Sub ("VGA") input connector. Those with SCART setups can just use a SCART to D-Sub15 patch cable (maybe in some cases a sync stripper may also be required?). Edit: actually removing the pots will be something you want to do if you'll be using RGBS inputs, SCART or not.
I know the GBS Control has its limitations with 1080p and its aspect ratio, but after remembering all the parts used for the original GBS-82XX boards (and the HDMI variants with SCART and component inputs) and even seeing custom boards like the Mcbazel ODV variant (which is still able to be updatable with the software from Rama), but I've thought of an idea that could work with all GBS control boards including the Mcbazel ODV variant I have (call me crazy if you will): "having an Arduino MKR Vidor 4000 to not only override the current chipset of the GBS-82XX series boards' limitations, but to also enhance the picture quality to also fix the aspect ratio switching for all resolutions, and even use the MKR Vidor 4000 to work in conjunction with the GBSC to 4K60 or 4K30, and to also work as a small FPGA decoder for composite video to work with composite video and S-Video via the green component port or with a SCART adapter."
I know it sounds silly and crazy, but to me it sounds like a good idea. And according to one Arduino forum about the MKR Vidor 4000, it's actually possible to store an input of 1080p60 to the SDRAM, so IF the FPGA on the MKR Vidor 4000 could override the current ASIC (which I am assuming is the one surface mounted chip with the heatsink on top) by finding the right pins for soldering some jumper wires to fix aspect ratio issues and hardware limitations (kinda similar how Tim Worthington's NESRGB kit or the NES Lava RGB kit which I did just find out about can override the original NES hardware's picture limitations to output RGB) so having someone else to program the MKR Vidor 4000 could actually work in conjunction with the GBSC Project with the right solder points regardless if using the original GBS-82XX boards or the HDMI variants, or custom-made ones like my Mcbazel ODV one which has a built in clock generator.
I'm going to build on of these to connect to a VGA CRT and I can't wait!
Nicely done! The only thing I would have done different is the kapton tape on the bottom of the clock board. It is easier to just paint the bottom of the board with nail polish. Nail polish is easier to find and can be used as a solder mask on custom made home cut boards so it is a great insulator.
i thought nail polish was confirmed as being an inherantly bad option and it's just best to get a can of conformal coating for not much more dosh?
afaik it's not only cause of cleaning it off during later repairs is a pain/potentially caustic, nor it's easy to unkowingly gimp thermal emission on pins/VIAs to danger levels from too thick of a layer, but even clear NAIL POLISH is just designed completely wrong for this use case as it's an organic resin meant for temporarilly decorating impactable living bone (keratin), *NOT* for permanently boxing copper/glue/plastics/epoxy/fibreglass/etc that, during application, *may* react with the solvents in the NAIL PAINT that keep it goopy to apply as a liquid as the solvents evapourate (same with model car clear varnishes, which some can even eat away the solder mask as it sets, so when you clean it off/it degrages off you may have live bare exposed power traces, yum!)...
a proper spray can of acrylic/silicone conformal coating won't cost much in the long run, won't crack/chip, can be soldered through (i.e. no acetone bath like removing polish; just flux) and with a nozzle/straw switch can be quite controllable, WITHOUT running the risk of organic acids/salts forming from the resins & plasticisers breaking down or impacting thermals OR non-spec solvents melting away your board and components, *whilst being a guaranteed non-electrically conductive, waterproof, fire retardant that glows in UV light* .....
yeah, don't pizza when you wanna french fry. get yourself some ambersil or mg, dawg.
I love how you comment everything like the viewer does it and you compliment the viewer. But basically you compliment yourself. 😂 😊 Fun to watch and I think I learned something 👍
What’s the best way to get CVBS into this unit? What converter would be the best step? I wanna used one of these to digitize laserdisc player output.