Hey Dave -- good do see you thriving. I dusted off my VFR800 after a long hiatus, got some new road shoes (Bridgestone's) and and needed to change the (mystery) fork oil. One of your videos (not this one but another one) was quite helpful. Big red has non-inverted forks and i had to dig a little to find the proper fluid height (130mm). Hope to see you sometime in the near future -- cheers, D. Munoz
Hey Dave, I love your videos and content. If you had a k6 with 7k miles. What suspension upgrades would most be beneficial for a weekend mountain /twisty street rider? 1) Servicing the stock suspension with fresh oil. 2) stock forks , ohlin / Penske /matris ktech rear shock. 3) ohlin cartridge in the forks & stock rear. 4) ohlin cartridge and ohlin rear shock
Thanks for your comment. 1. If original oil, yes a full fork and shock service. 2. Depending on your weight, fork and shock springs would be the next step. 3. Then you get into budget so Andreani kit for the forks, and revalve for the shock. 4. Finally, you would purchase Ohlins/Nitron/Ktech cartridges and shock.
Awesome video as always Dave - can't thank you enough for sharing your vast knowledge with, literally, the world. A quick qustion if I may ... I have a 2005 ZRX1200R with 83K on the clock. I'm a pretty heavy guy, around the 135kg mark. If I serviced the front forks, should I go to a heavier oil, maybe a 15 or 20wt ??? Thanks, Steve.
Hi Steve. Thanks for the kind words! At your weight, front and rear springs would be helpful if you have the budget. For the forks, (as I had a ZXR) with stock internals 15w is the maximum you can use.
Dear Dave, can you please tell me what's the oil viscosity equivalent of the suzuki L01 fork oil (that suzuki put into the forks of this video) ? I'm getting mad, on the internet they say from 5w to 15w, this it getting very confusing...
almost took my forks to a service shop to change the oil before I saw your video. Thanks for saving me money. I do have a question though, my 04 gsxr 1000 service manual says to use fork oil L01 or equivalent. After searching around it seems that I would need to use 5wt fork oil. I was wondering why you went with 10 wt?
Thanks Dave, Another great video. I have BPF on my GSXR 750 so will download your tutorial. My question is around fork oil viscosity and various manufactures of fork oil. I have read where a 10w from one manufacturer has a different viscosity to another even though they both show that they are 10W on the label. What is your take on this? Does it matter?
Yes, that is true. Simply Google a fork oil viscosity chart and there are many very detailed ones to choose from. transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
Remove all fork preload but note the number of turns. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt, then loosen the fork cap. For the dump and run oil change, that is all you need to do. If you are stripping the fork down, you do not need a vice but will need a second set of hands to hold the fork still while you compress the preload spacer.
How do you know the fork had the correct amount of oil in the first place. If it was low due to leaking seals then you just refilled it low again. Don't you have a fork oil capacity chart or fork oil level tool? I would think you need to check for the correct level each time.
Is there a safe way to undo the top cap without damaging it like without any mark to keep it brand new? I hate when bikes have that top cap "smashed" from wrenches...
If you are talking about revalving: racetech.com/page/id/70. If you want to remove the allen bolt from the casting inside the bottom of the fork, you can remove the cartridge that way.
Hi Dave! I plan on doing this but I want to remove the cap so I can clean and measure the spring, when setting the air gap on re assemble with the spring removed and fork fully compressd do i measure oil level up to the gold coloured outer tube or the silver inner tube? Many thanks john.
You need a fork spring compressor to get the fork apart as per video. You can also simply take the allen bolt out f the base of the fork and remove the content as one piece. That is VERY messy and you don't get to empty the cartridge - it has to drain overnight.
@@testbox3201 Sorry, had a different video on my mind. Yes, you can use the lower triple clamp as the vice. Race teams do it all the time in the hot pit. Loosen both the upper and lower so the fork slides as if you're removing it from the bike to be sure the upper is loose. Retighten the lower to hold it and then break the cap loose. Then remove it from the bike.
Dave Moss FTW...able to knock out fork seal replacement this today
Great video Dave , very well explained now to do it myself
Hey Dave -- good do see you thriving. I dusted off my VFR800 after a long hiatus, got some new road shoes (Bridgestone's) and and needed to change the (mystery) fork oil. One of your videos (not this one but another one) was quite helpful. Big red has non-inverted forks and i had to dig a little to find the proper fluid height (130mm).
Hope to see you sometime in the near future -- cheers, D. Munoz
Mr. Munoz!! :) Great to know you are out and about again on 2 wheels!
Nice job bro
Perfect video!
Thank you!
Hello Dave,
It would be nice to make a video for the Yamaha R1 2007/2008 model too.
Great video !
We will try to acquire different forks as the season progresses from April to November.
Hey Dave, I love your videos and content. If you had a k6 with 7k miles. What suspension upgrades would most be beneficial for a weekend mountain /twisty street rider?
1) Servicing the stock suspension with fresh oil.
2) stock forks , ohlin / Penske /matris ktech rear shock.
3) ohlin cartridge in the forks & stock rear.
4) ohlin cartridge and ohlin rear shock
Thanks for your comment. 1. If original oil, yes a full fork and shock service. 2. Depending on your weight, fork and shock springs would be the next step. 3. Then you get into budget so Andreani kit for the forks, and revalve for the shock. 4. Finally, you would purchase Ohlins/Nitron/Ktech cartridges and shock.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you for the quick response.
Nice video! Would like to see a more in depth video please. I grit my teeth when you put the fork on the bare floor and bounced it 😬
Sorry your teeth suffered. The floor was polished concrete with an epoxy seal.
Awesome video as always Dave - can't thank you enough for sharing your vast knowledge with, literally, the world. A quick qustion if I may ... I have a 2005 ZRX1200R with 83K on the clock. I'm a pretty heavy guy, around the 135kg mark. If I serviced the front forks, should I go to a heavier oil, maybe a 15 or 20wt ??? Thanks, Steve.
Hi Steve. Thanks for the kind words! At your weight, front and rear springs would be helpful if you have the budget. For the forks, (as I had a ZXR) with stock internals 15w is the maximum you can use.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks very much :)
Not sure I like the damage from the metal adjustable’s used to remove and tighten the cap.
Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Why? What concerns you?
Williams, again here. Yes, always use the tool with which you feel most comfortable.
I think those caps were already damaged pre video.
Dear Dave, can you please tell me what's the oil viscosity equivalent of the suzuki L01 fork oil (that suzuki put into the forks of this video) ? I'm getting mad, on the internet they say from 5w to 15w, this it getting very confusing...
I know it’s a 4 year old comment but closest to L01 is 2.5w according to Haynes Manual
almost took my forks to a service shop to change the oil before I saw your video. Thanks for saving me money. I do have a question though, my 04 gsxr 1000 service manual says to use fork oil L01 or equivalent. After searching around it seems that I would need to use 5wt fork oil. I was wondering why you went with 10 wt?
Greater longevity, better viscosity in very high summer temps here in CA.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for the fast response, yea it doesnt get as hot here as it does in california haha so 5wt will work. Cheers mate.
Thanks Dave, Another great video. I have BPF on my GSXR 750 so will download your tutorial. My question is around fork oil viscosity and various manufactures of fork oil. I have read where a 10w from one manufacturer has a different viscosity to another even though they both show that they are 10W on the label. What is your take on this? Does it matter?
Yes, that is true. Simply Google a fork oil viscosity chart and there are many very detailed ones to choose from. transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
Im about to attempt this on my 2004 gsxr, can it be done without a special vice?
Remove all fork preload but note the number of turns. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolt, then loosen the fork cap. For the dump and run oil change, that is all you need to do. If you are stripping the fork down, you do not need a vice but will need a second set of hands to hold the fork still while you compress the preload spacer.
How do you know the fork had the correct amount of oil in the first place. If it was low due to leaking seals then you just refilled it low again. Don't you have a fork oil capacity chart or fork oil level tool? I would think you need to check for the correct level each time.
If you set the level, you know it. If you go online, you can find the stock volume and compare what you removed.
Hi Dave. I find your videos very interesting. This is a 2003-8 model. Is the procedure the same for the 2001/2 model?
Thank you! Yes, same principles for any USD fork up to BPF version.
Dave Is the oil level 375 ml suzuki 1000 k7
Is this with a full strip clean and cartridges removed or just a dump and run oil service?
Full strip clean is 500cc, dump and run 475cc. Oil level if you are measuring height is 110mm to 135mm. 110 for excellent braking skills.
My bike doesn't have Wifi, how to i download the DLC to my forks?
DLC? Not sure what you are referring to.
@@catalystreactionsbw when he's on about the dlc coating
Is there a safe way to undo the top cap without damaging it like without any mark to keep it brand new? I hate when bikes have that top cap "smashed" from wrenches...
You can glue rubber strips onto adjustable spanners/wrenches for the fork caps. There are plastic sockets for metric sizes with 3/8 drive as well.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks a lot for a quick response.
Any info on removing the cartridge in this type of fork?
If you are talking about revalving: racetech.com/page/id/70. If you want to remove the allen bolt from the casting inside the bottom of the fork, you can remove the cartridge that way.
Hi Dave! I plan on doing this but I want to remove the cap so I can clean and measure the spring, when setting the air gap on re assemble with the spring removed and fork fully compressd do i measure oil level up to the gold coloured outer tube or the silver inner tube? Many thanks john.
Hi John. With the outer bottomed out, measure from the oil level on the inside to the top of the tube.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you dave👍
If I don't have a special vice, can i remove the upper triple clamp and then remove the cap?
You need a fork spring compressor to get the fork apart as per video. You can also simply take the allen bolt out f the base of the fork and remove the content as one piece. That is VERY messy and you don't get to empty the cartridge - it has to drain overnight.
@@catalystreactionsbw That answer doesn't match the question. How to hold the outer tube to get the cap loosen without this special vice?
@@testbox3201 Sorry, had a different video on my mind. Yes, you can use the lower triple clamp as the vice. Race teams do it all the time in the hot pit. Loosen both the upper and lower so the fork slides as if you're removing it from the bike to be sure the upper is loose. Retighten the lower to hold it and then break the cap loose. Then remove it from the bike.
@@testbox3201 thanks, yes exactly that was what I wanted to know.
I think dave looks better with a skin head.
Gee Wally what about 2002 !