Very useful - the dishwasher might be saying there is a fault but without being able to check the actual issue (after all it could be a faulty controller!) you're left not knowing where the real fault lies. But with this data, you've got a chance. In my case the heater element was blown to bits - so cured with a new unit. Cheers :)
@@theoracle6005 Oh the irony of your timing, we have just had our new dishwasher delivered TODAY! The latest fault was a pump error; but it seemed so incredibly hard to access the actual pump itself after checking for an obvious blockage from the washer side (the heat pump was bad enough) that I gave up - the machine was now 13 years old. I took every bit of it apart in the garden yesterday (should have grabbed a picture) so it can be truly recycled. I also removed the 1 year old heat pump and it sold on eBay within hours :)
Thank your for the info, very precise and straight to the point, like 😁. I got 20.15 Ohm in the heater element, 11k+11k in the thermistor and 43.85k(1-2), 44.15k(1-3), 44.85k(2-3) in the 3 pins of the motor coil. The motor should be good 👍
Hello, this is excellent info! I did check the readings and it seems like one of the thermistor (pin1-2) is blown and has resistance in mega ohms. Pin 2-3 seems ok with about 10 kilo ohms. Just curious if these thermistors can be replaced? Thanks again!
Hi Samarth, The thermistor is basically printed on the heating element Zeolith. So this means a new heat pump unfortunately. Once the heat pump is pulled apart the oring seals are compromised, hence not recommended to be put back in service It is amazing how they do this but very effective. The downside is that corrosive chemistry in detergent/rinse aid eventually eat thru the coating resulting in failure.
A great video on an excellent channel thanks Oracle. My SMU68M05AU/55 which has this same heat pump, is only heating the interior of the dish washer to from 25 (pre wash) to 32 degrees C on a 70 degree wash cycle. The machine gives no errors but it's not washing properly and there is some water left in the base when the cycle is over. I've tested the heating element using your instructions and get a reading of 21.5 Ohms. The temperature sensor pins are reading 10.53 kOhms,10.52 kOhms , 21.09 kOhms. Could the higher resistance on the heating element mean that while the heater can produce limited heat and not cause the machine to fault out, it is unable to get hot enough?
Hi Mick Thank you for your kind comments. The wash and final rinse reach 70DegC on a pots wash cycle. If you log the cycle you would be able to test this with time. So log the cycle and double check. It is possible that the heater is slowly failing resulting in a lower temperature. This usually means the heat pump is on its way out. Check for any corrosion at the bottom and near the terminals.
Great video very helpful. My heater pump has a code 1BS3615-6EA. The issue is water is not getting hot enough,only warm and the dishwasher is connected to a cold tap. Readings are Heating Element 20.4 ohm Motor 43 ohm on all pins Heater Thermistor pin 1to2 9.5 K ohm pin 1 to 3 18 k ohm. As some heat is occurring and resistance is within your spec I suspected the Thermistors. Both Thermistors have the same reading but are well below the spec you suggested. Are the Thermistors the likely cause?
Hi, my pump is very similar (part nr 00654575) and has a ground and 3 heater pins. Between the ground pin and live pins I measure open loop, between the lives I got about 11 and 20 Ohms (pins 2 &3 and 3 & 4). Can I conclude this resistance is far too low and that the heating part of the pump is faulty? It also made the short to ground. Great and very clear video!
Hi Phillippe Thanks for writing about your problem and your feedback. When you measured the resistance between earth pin (Far LHS) and heater Pins, Pin 2 and 3 did you use a Megger tester on 500v setting to measure resistance. This will measure insulation resistance. Is your unit Tripping the breaker ? The heater resistance should be between 19-20 Ohms. You can also visually inspect to see if there is any form of burnouts or corrosion on the heater where the Pins are located. This can also verify if there is a possible issue with the heater circuit. On the Bosch units I have also come across issues where there has been defective main boards that trip during heating. But having said this 98% of time it was the heater and maybe 2% of the odd time when the board was causing issues with heating.
@@theoracle6005 Hi, sorry for the late response and thanks a lot for yours. In the mean time I have come to the conclusion that the second resistor of the heat sensor has an open. Between pins 1 and 2 I measure about 11 Ohms and between pins 1 and 3 OL. On my new style pump I measure about 12 and 24 ohms. I had to rewire with the kit that came along with the new pump. The new pump has good resistance readings. Unfortunately, the E02 error still remains. So there must be a second problem. Could it be the faulty pump took out the control PCB? I came across this possibility on the internet somewhere. What would be your opinion on this? Is there a way I can diagnose the PCB (the one the power cord connects to)? Thanks!
@@theoracle6005 it’s a Siemens with modelnr. SN66M030EU/02. I just pulled the control board. Nothing looks burned or damaged in any way, exept for 2 pins that were used for the heater (I think). They are no longer in use with this pump, since the new wiring requires less pins. The pins are blu-ish in colour, a if the metal got quite hot. But as I mentioned, I can’t find any obvious damage. The control board nr is 9000214580. Thanks again!
Hi Pascal The pump actually operates like a 3 phase motor. The board converts into 3 phase and commentates the motor. Although supply voltage is 230v/120vac , the motor voltage is actually fixed by bosch and shouldn't matter. Varying speed us done by varying frequency.
Hello, thanks for your video. I have a question: if by testing I do not obtain the correct values in the temperature sensor and the ohms are going down more and more (10,86kh, 9,46kh, 9,27kh) and quickly, does it mean that the heat pump is faulty?
Hi Edu Lopez Thank you for your question. What is the error code you are getting? If the resistance on the temperature sensor keeps reducing , it is possible that the heat pump could be defective. The sensor typically at room temperature should have a stable resistance. These sensors have a negative temperature coefficient- meaning that the electrical resistance drops with an increase in temperature. Another good way to test the sensor for earth leakage would be to use a megger tester on 500Volt setting and touch Ground pin (First Pin on LHS) and touch each one of the sensor pins. You should have an infinite resistance typically on a good heat pump. Should there be deflection or a low resistance with the merger tester then you more than likely have a defective pump.
@@theoracle6005 Hi, thanks for the video and your comments. I have come here looking for the E01 error in the Siemens SR64M032EU / 28 integrable model (45cm). In addition to having reset the machine, there is no obstruction in the drain pump and I see it in perfect condition. There is no obstruction in the tubes either. I have taken out the heating pump to test it and the resistance is correct between 19 and 20 ohms. But some error information web pages indicate that the E01 is most likely an error that comes from this part. That is why I have also tested the temperature sensor of the pump (the 3 small pins next to the resistor pins), and in theory as I have found it should be at 12kohms but I have measured it several times and each time it shows less (10.86kh, 9.46kh, 9.27kh, in a few minutes). Also the brushless motor, marks 54-55 ohms, approx, between pins 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and 1 and 3 indifferently. As in other pages and resources talk about the power module, it makes me doubt if the temperature sensor is really damaged and therefore I have to change the heating pump or it is more the fault of the module ... I hope I have explained myself well and that you can help me , regards.
Hi Abdyl You should have 19 Ohms on the bigger pins 2 and 3 for the heating terminals. 15kOhms and 30 Kohms may be ok depending on the type of pump as its more or less double. May I ask what issue you are having with the dishwasher. Did you get any fault codes appear, this may allow us to understand your problem and then we can look at possible solutions
Hi. when taking the motor out for testing the motor connector broke apart leaving me with three velvet wires. I'm trying to reconnect them to the connector does it mater which one go's where ?
Hi Muli ron Has the Temperature sensor moles connector broken ? The small connector on the RHS is the.temperature sensor. If so , it certainly matters. Incorrect connection will result in an Error code displayed. Pin 1 and 2 should be 12k Pin 1 and 3 should be 24k Based on this you should be able to find the correct orientation. If the connector for the big plug on the LHS broke then remember the green earth is the first pin on the Left hand side, followed by the heater terminals on pin. If the earth terminal is connected in the wrong pin, this is serious as it can result in electric shock to the user or keep tripping the safety switch if installed. Remember the pin 2 and 3 of the big connector should be between 19-20 Ohms resistance. A megger test will or portable appliance tester can be used to ensure the appliance has been correctly connected. Kind regards
Hi You will need to buy an entire new heat pump. The thermistor is integrated into the heat pump and is built in to heater zeolith. Cannot purchase off the shelf thermistor for this application
Great Video. My dishwasher is not heating up the water. I took the measurements as follows: • Heater resistance o Pin 2 & 3 (19-20 Ohms); Results 3-4 MegaOhms -> ? • Temp Sensors o Pin 1 & 2 (12 KOhms); Results 10KOhms -> Okay o Pin 1 & 3 (24 KOhms); Results 20KOhms -> Okay • Brushless motors: o Pin 1 & 2 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay o Pin 1 & 3 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay o Pin 2 & 3 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay I hope I am measuring this correctly, but I am not getting the 19-20 Ohms for the heater pins. I suspect this is the culprit. Correct?
![Bosch Neff Siemens e09 no heat dishwasher [Easy fix] HD Heat pump replacement](/img/1.gif)
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, appreciate the help diagnosing my faulty motor.
Your most welcome Craig
Thanks! This was very helpful for troubleshooting a similar Bosch heat pump 12011015.
Thanks a lot for the detailed instructions!
Your most welcome Sergey 🙏
Very useful - the dishwasher might be saying there is a fault but without being able to check the actual issue (after all it could be a faulty controller!) you're left not knowing where the real fault lies. But with this data, you've got a chance. In my case the heater element was blown to bits - so cured with a new unit. Cheers :)
This is where measuring the resistances help. If all in specifications, then it's possible that the heater relay is defective
@@theoracle6005 Oh the irony of your timing, we have just had our new dishwasher delivered TODAY! The latest fault was a pump error; but it seemed so incredibly hard to access the actual pump itself after checking for an obvious blockage from the washer side (the heat pump was bad enough) that I gave up - the machine was now 13 years old. I took every bit of it apart in the garden yesterday (should have grabbed a picture) so it can be truly recycled. I also removed the 1 year old heat pump and it sold on eBay within hours :)
Top information. Helps me to solve my problem.
Thank your for the info, very precise and straight to the point, like 😁. I got 20.15 Ohm in the heater element, 11k+11k in the thermistor and 43.85k(1-2), 44.15k(1-3), 44.85k(2-3) in the 3 pins of the motor coil. The motor should be good 👍
Hello, this is excellent info! I did check the readings and it seems like one of the thermistor (pin1-2) is blown and has resistance in mega ohms. Pin 2-3 seems ok with about 10 kilo ohms. Just curious if these thermistors can be replaced? Thanks again!
Hi Samarth,
The thermistor is basically printed on the heating element Zeolith. So this means a new heat pump unfortunately.
Once the heat pump is pulled apart the oring seals are compromised, hence not recommended to be put back in service
It is amazing how they do this but very effective. The downside is that corrosive chemistry in detergent/rinse aid eventually eat thru the coating resulting in failure.
A great video on an excellent channel thanks Oracle.
My SMU68M05AU/55 which has this same heat pump, is only heating the interior of the dish washer to from 25 (pre wash) to 32 degrees C on a 70 degree wash cycle. The machine gives no errors but it's not washing properly and there is some water left in the base when the cycle is over.
I've tested the heating element using your instructions and get a reading of 21.5 Ohms. The temperature sensor pins are reading 10.53 kOhms,10.52 kOhms , 21.09 kOhms.
Could the higher resistance on the heating element mean that while the heater can produce limited heat and not cause the machine to fault out, it is unable to get hot enough?
Hi Mick
Thank you for your kind comments.
The wash and final rinse reach 70DegC on a pots wash cycle. If you log the cycle you would be able to test this with time.
So log the cycle and double check.
It is possible that the heater is slowly failing resulting in a lower temperature.
This usually means the heat pump is on its way out.
Check for any corrosion at the bottom and near the terminals.
I got the washer with no heating. I checked the temperature sensor and it’s 7k and 14k. Is it too low?
Great video very helpful.
My heater pump has a code 1BS3615-6EA. The issue is water is not getting hot enough,only warm and the dishwasher is connected to a cold tap. Readings are
Heating Element 20.4 ohm
Motor 43 ohm on all pins
Heater Thermistor pin 1to2 9.5 K ohm pin 1 to 3 18 k ohm.
As some heat is occurring and resistance is within your spec I suspected the Thermistors. Both Thermistors have the same reading but are well below the spec you suggested.
Are the Thermistors the likely cause?
Can be thermistor , but can also be a possible issue with a dry joint either on the element or the board
Hi, my pump is very similar (part nr 00654575) and has a ground and 3 heater pins. Between the ground pin and live pins I measure open loop, between the lives I got about 11 and 20 Ohms (pins 2 &3 and 3 & 4). Can I conclude this resistance is far too low and that the heating part of the pump is faulty? It also made the short to ground. Great and very clear video!
Hi Phillippe
Thanks for writing about your problem and your feedback.
When you measured the resistance between earth pin (Far LHS) and heater Pins, Pin 2 and 3 did you use a Megger tester on 500v setting to measure resistance. This will measure insulation resistance.
Is your unit Tripping the breaker ?
The heater resistance should be between 19-20 Ohms.
You can also visually inspect to see if there is any form of burnouts or corrosion on the heater where the Pins are located. This can also verify if there is a possible issue with the heater circuit.
On the Bosch units I have also come across issues where there has been defective main boards that trip during heating. But having said this 98% of time it was the heater and maybe 2% of the odd time when the board was causing issues with heating.
@@theoracle6005 Hi, sorry for the late response and thanks a lot for yours. In the mean time I have come to the conclusion that the second resistor of the heat sensor has an open. Between pins 1 and 2 I measure about 11 Ohms and between pins 1 and 3 OL. On my new style pump I measure about 12 and 24 ohms. I had to rewire with the kit that came along with the new pump. The new pump has good resistance readings. Unfortunately, the E02 error still remains. So there must be a second problem. Could it be the faulty pump took out the control PCB? I came across this possibility on the internet somewhere. What would be your opinion on this? Is there a way I can diagnose the PCB (the one the power cord connects to)? Thanks!
@@bultech
Hi Philippe
Can u kindly send me the model details for your machine please
@@theoracle6005 it’s a Siemens with modelnr. SN66M030EU/02. I just pulled the control board. Nothing looks burned or damaged in any way, exept for 2 pins that were used for the heater (I think). They are no longer in use with this pump, since the new wiring requires less pins. The pins are blu-ish in colour, a if the metal got quite hot. But as I mentioned, I can’t find any obvious damage. The control board nr is 9000214580. Thanks again!
Finally found the culprit. 2 relais on the control board are dead. The bad hearing element probably took them out
is your pump works on 120vac or 230vac ? is the results could be the same if current is differente ?
Hi Pascal
The pump actually operates like a 3 phase motor. The board converts into 3 phase and commentates the motor. Although supply voltage is 230v/120vac , the motor voltage is actually fixed by bosch and shouldn't matter. Varying speed us done by varying frequency.
Hello, thanks for your video. I have a question: if by testing I do not obtain the correct values in the temperature sensor and the ohms are going down more and more (10,86kh, 9,46kh, 9,27kh) and quickly, does it mean that the heat pump is faulty?
Hi Edu Lopez
Thank you for your question.
What is the error code you are getting?
If the resistance on the temperature sensor keeps reducing , it is possible that the heat pump could be defective.
The sensor typically at room temperature should have a stable resistance. These sensors have a negative temperature coefficient- meaning that the electrical resistance drops with an increase in temperature.
Another good way to test the sensor for earth leakage would be to use a megger tester on 500Volt setting and touch Ground pin (First Pin on LHS) and touch each one of the sensor pins. You should have an infinite resistance typically on a good heat pump.
Should there be deflection or a low resistance with the merger tester then you more than likely have a defective pump.
@@theoracle6005 Hi, thanks for the video and your comments. I have come here looking for the E01 error in the Siemens SR64M032EU / 28 integrable model (45cm). In addition to having reset the machine, there is no obstruction in the drain pump and I see it in perfect condition. There is no obstruction in the tubes either. I have taken out the heating pump to test it and the resistance is correct between 19 and 20 ohms. But some error information web pages indicate that the E01 is most likely an error that comes from this part. That is why I have also tested the temperature sensor of the pump (the 3 small pins next to the resistor pins), and in theory as I have found it should be at 12kohms but I have measured it several times and each time it shows less (10.86kh, 9.46kh, 9.27kh, in a few minutes). Also the brushless motor, marks 54-55 ohms, approx, between pins 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and 1 and 3 indifferently. As in other pages and resources talk about the power module, it makes me doubt if the temperature sensor is really damaged and therefore I have to change the heating pump or it is more the fault of the module ... I hope I have explained myself well and that you can help me , regards.
@@edulopezal E01 may be a controller related error
@@theoracle6005 THank you so much. You mean the power module or other piece? thanks
@@edulopezal yes I recon you may have an issue with Power module
I got around 15kilo oms and 30 does that mean its too much or the resistance its too high for the heater to work?
Hi Abdyl
You should have 19 Ohms on the bigger pins 2 and 3 for the heating terminals.
15kOhms and 30 Kohms may be ok depending on the type of pump as its more or less double.
May I ask what issue you are having with the dishwasher. Did you get any fault codes appear, this may allow us to understand your problem and then we can look at possible solutions
Hi Abdyl
The heater pins should read 19-20 Ohms.
15k and 30kOhm on the thermistor is roughly double, so should still work.
Please can you tell us 3 phases motor test on bench with voltages supplying to motor
As long as you have an inverter which can supply the prescribe motor voltage you can bench test
Hi. when taking the motor out for testing the motor connector broke apart leaving me with three velvet wires. I'm trying to reconnect them to the connector does it mater which one go's where ?
Hi Muli ron
Has the Temperature sensor moles connector broken ?
The small connector on the RHS is the.temperature sensor.
If so , it certainly matters. Incorrect connection will result in an Error code displayed.
Pin 1 and 2 should be 12k
Pin 1 and 3 should be 24k
Based on this you should be able to find the correct orientation.
If the connector for the big plug on the LHS broke then remember the green earth is the first pin on the Left hand side, followed by the heater terminals on pin.
If the earth terminal is connected in the wrong pin, this is serious as it can result in electric shock to the user or keep tripping the safety switch if installed.
Remember the pin 2 and 3 of the big connector should be between 19-20 Ohms resistance.
A megger test will or portable appliance tester can be used to ensure the appliance has been correctly connected.
Kind regards
Hi Muli
The resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 should be 12kOhms and 1 and 3 should be 24kOhms
Hello! Someone knows, what kind of thermistors are used for that temperature sensor? Where can I buy them?
Hi
You will need to buy an entire new heat pump. The thermistor is integrated into the heat pump and is built in to heater zeolith.
Cannot purchase off the shelf thermistor for this application
Great Video. My dishwasher is not heating up the water. I took the measurements as follows:
• Heater resistance
o Pin 2 & 3 (19-20 Ohms); Results 3-4 MegaOhms -> ?
• Temp Sensors
o Pin 1 & 2 (12 KOhms); Results 10KOhms -> Okay
o Pin 1 & 3 (24 KOhms); Results 20KOhms -> Okay
• Brushless motors:
o Pin 1 & 2 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay
o Pin 1 & 3 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay
o Pin 2 & 3 (47 Ohms); Results 54 Ohms -> Okay
I hope I am measuring this correctly, but I am not getting the 19-20 Ohms for the heater pins. I suspect this is the culprit. Correct?
Yes Heater is open circuit , replace heatpump
@@theoracle6005 Replaced heater pump and now works! Thanks for the help. You are a nice person 🙂👍.
@willyortiz1022 Your most welcome Willy Ortiz - Glad to see you fixed your problem
Can i know minimum lifespan of bosch dishwasher heatpump when purchased and for the replaced spare part?
The mean time between failure for the circulation pump is 10-12yrs.
Keep in mind other parts may fail during this life span
You should get about 7-10yrs with a new heatpump. Mind you that depends on mtbf of other components