A good tip I think you missed out: When you want to buy a used motorcycle, ask the owner not to start it before you get there. You can tell a lot from how a cold engine starts.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing like I guess that's why he's called yammie noob because he is a noob who is unaware I mean I could be wrong and it may be very expensive but I kinda doubt it like 1500 cmon I think more like 400 to 700.
also - check under the rear fender for pieces of rubber, it indicates burnouts -check engine serial code, if the vin is different ask why, it may be a good thing "engine was replaced" or it could be bad"motor or bike was stolen" and ask where the motor came from, just because the motor is different does not mean it is new. -check for oil leaks .
Wait... are you saying you don’t change your sprockets when you change your chain? Cause those are a combo. Also, tires... you skipped the most important part. On every tire manufactured in the last 20 years you’ll find a four digit code inside of a raised oval. For example 3614. That means the tire was made in the 36th week of 2014. Low mileage tires with lots of tread are often touted as “still good” but since it’s 2019 if I saw 3614 I’d go ahead and call those tires shot regardless of tread depth because rubber doesn’t age well. Five years max for a sport bike. Otherwise, yes. Good list.
Some basic math will tell you that even if worn sprockets halve the life of your chain, it's still cheaper to buy new sprockets every other chain swap.
Pretty obvious but check if the bike has been pre-started by feeling the engine. If its hot/warm instead of cold it means that the seller either just gave it a run or is hiding something startup related. The worst thing imaginable is buying a bike and realizing afterwards that it won't properly start.
my car had a bad fly wheel, didn't realise as the seller had warmed everything up and i didn't check to see if it was warm. My own fault for that, though once ive fixed a few bits its running great.
@@EvilED08 Some dillhole tried to get me with this. I asked him to not run the car and he agreed. He claimed the car was uninsured and so he hadn't been driving it. I got there and felt the engine - warm. So I asked him and he was like "oh yeah we just took it to the gas station real quick." Ok . . . lol So I took a peek in the resevoir for coolant and asked if he ever used water. "Oh no always antifreeze." - It was caked up with rust. Sucks because it was a decent car, drove well,shifted smooth and was priced fairly. If he would have been honest about any issues I probably would have still purchased it, but he scared me away with all of that lying bullshit.
Craigslist in a nutshell.. selling R1 very low miles, never dropped garage kept only 3k. You go and see and it's dented to hell, has over 40k on it, is rusted to hell, and doesn't start.
Oil, oil filter and check the radiator coolant. It's similar in that of buying a used car. If they haven't been changing the fluids regularly it isn't a good buy.
Hey man. I’m a two week in driver. I REALLY appreciate all of your videos. You’ve taught me a lot. You’re doing a great thing in making these videos keep it up papa yam
Good info except for seals are no where near 1.5-2k to fix, they're a regular maintenance item that'll normally run around $200-$300. A good way to check for leaky seals is to hold the front break and push back and forth/up and down on the handle bars
I do them all the time (mechanic). They aren't that bad and don't cost anywhere near what he said. That's just for seals and fluid change. Like you said $200-300 depending on the bike. Even a bent fork tube isn't as much as he says usually. It would have to be a complete mess to need the whole fork system replaced, and then you just grab a used set for $400
Rims!!! Put the bike on the centre stand if it has (or any other stand if it doesn't) and check that the rims turn concentric and if they have any bumps on the edges.
I can't believe you didn't mention to check the DOT on the tires. Manufacturers have to print when the tires was made, 2416 would indicate the 24th week of 2016. When I bought my bike 3 years ago it looked like brand new lightly used tires, but come to find out they were from 2011, which means they loose a substantial amount of grip and safety. Also flat areas on the rear tires specifically are more likely to indicate extended highway use rather than burn outs.
i bought a used yamaha r3 2015 raven from a girl it was a deal and a half! it came with a showroom yoshimura exhaust, 2 sets of frame sliders (no idea why she had 2) sold a set on ebay for 100 bucks and a cover. she did drop it but it was just a little fairing cosmetic damage (it landed on her leg impaling it with the footpeg saving a lot of damage my thinking. she was asking 2700$ and i talked her down to 2500$ oh and did i mention it had 268 miles on it? runs great i'm at 1800 or so miles curse winter tho.
Leaky forks are the worst. Last year both my bikes started leaking. I did the job myself and I didn't to it once not twice but 3 times on the first bike before it was sealed. Every exchange of seals took around 4-5h in 30°C heat. It was hell. One thing I learned: don't use the cheap seals. Us some that are for off-road bikes that are quality. Will safe you lots of trouble time and money
Many times cleaning the fork seals with a Seal Mate type tool, or making one from a piece of plastic milk jug will stop a fork seal leak, if you do it early enough. It is often a little piece of sand holding the fork seal open. If the seal is cut or torn, this will not work.
I did my fork seals and bushings for 50 euros in parts and 2,5hrs of work, "special" tools required are something to hold the bike up and a piece of PVC pipe...
So I thought as well, until it turned out the tubes and teflon bushings needed replacing, as well. And Honda charges 250€ a pop for the tubes. At least I did it myself...
@@kostadinpantev local shop would service my cb1000r front forks for 80 euros, that's work and parts included. idk why its so expensive everywhere else.
@@MrZeepman I guess it depends on what parts needed replacement. The oil for my CBF500 cost about 15€ and the oil and dust seals cost about 30€ on eBay, which is normally what needs to be replaced. The teflon bushes were about 50€ from Honda and the tubes I sourced from a manufacturer in Poland for 192€ for the pair. Labour in Munich is about 80-90€/hour if you go to a decent shop.
Maintenance records, garage kept, oil condition, idle, are usually a good signs the bike was loved....... I own a beemer and document everything done to her ..... cool vid ......
5:25 ALWAYS swap sprockets when you change chain. Same goes for when you switch sprockets. You replace the whole set because of how they wear in together.
Some basic math will tell you that even if worn sprockets halve the life of your chain, it's still cheaper to buy new sprockets every other chain swap.
Depending on what the bike lands on in that parking lot drop, other parts can be damaged. I watched my.dad.drop his, now my wife's, VT 1100 in a parking lot at almost a dead stop, checking on his noobs in training, and it broke off a trim piece from the left front peg, as well as scratching and denting the tank. And yes, he picked it right back up, parked it,.and went in to get his cup of coffee. And we haven't repaired it yet either, even after 4 years if ownership. Someday, just not yet.
One advantage to having an ancient tech bike like my 2003 Vmax is that the forks are super simple, I did my own fork seals this spring for under $200 including the purchase of a couple tools for the install
A while back I was restoring European dirt bikes, usually Bultacos or Pentons, for extra money. I did everything, including painting, with the exception of rod replacement, new cylinder liners, crank realignment. Replacing fork seals was a snap, I got the correct seals and fluid for under $20. I made a fork seal driver out of a tool from my dad's 1936 John Deere toolkit. The only time I had to buy new fork sliders was for a 1972 Yamaha XS2 that I took in other than boredom. I got them from Frank's Forks in Kansas for $150.00.....
One of the things I do is try to get a feel for the person you're buying from. Asking what they used the bike for, do they do their own mechanical work, how often they do those tasks, what security they use. Basically go fishing for intel. A person who neglects the bike will very quickly give themselves away, often by having no idea of common issues, service intervals etc, whereas a bike that genuinely has sat because the person doesn't/isn't able to ride it but has still cared for the bike will also out themselves. The type of person the owner is will often tell you as much about the likely state of the bike as the all-important inspection. In the UK we can check the road-worthiness test history (Called 'MOT'), it lists the previous tests, whether a vehicle passed or failed and any issues that have been identified and can also help pin-point anyone who has been patching cracks instead of solving issues.
what got me was the clutch! being a noob when i bought my bike. all was as it should be, but after riding it maybe a couple hrs the clutch started slipping. the seller had adjusted the clutch cable out as far as it would go and still work. had to let it sit for a week to save up 300.00 bucks, load it up in a truck i don’t have, and wait for a busy shop to fix it, a week, it was done. now it’s like new and love my bike. but check that clutch and proper adjustment on it.
I bought a turbo busa a few weeks ago for 3k with only 3600 miles on it. And I have replaced more things than I care to mention and have around 7k into now. But it rides like a dream
One of the most important things is where the bike came from and if the title is valid and clear. Also, look at the bottom of the pegs and see if they have been scraped. Also, check the color and condition of the oil. If you go to the guy's house, look at his house and how it is maintained. Ask a lot of questions, if the guy hesitates or seems evasive, it is likely a good idea to move on to another bike. Keep your mouth shut when the seller is talking, let him ramble on because frequently whilst he is rambling, he will reveal important information.
I always check wheel and steering neck bearings. Wheel bearings can be checked by trying to pry against the tire and fork system. Zero play tolerance. Steering neck bearings can be checked by turning handle bars from lock to lock. There should be uniform resistance through the range and absolutely no knocking or clicking.
i also look at the metal tabs which marks the limit of your steering for damage. & a plus if the original OEM tool pouch is present & the registration is current.
a yammie vid always raises spirits, kinda like a well thought out powerpoint and casually explained, oh you guys should collaborate (assuming casually and yammie do collabs, new sub here)
CHECK THE FRAME AND MOTOR MOUNTS, if it had a stunt cage or engine sliders and went down hard chances are there can be cracks in the frame or cracks near the motor mount holes. I bought a CBR600rr that had a cage for 2k and found out later that not only was the bottom front motor mount hole completely cracked because of a stunt cage, there was not even a motor mount bolt in there. So my engine was hanging on by the other bolts and had nothing on the bottom front.
Run through the gears. I have no 4th on my cbr954rr but didn't realize til I got it home bcuz I only brought it up to 3rd when trying it out. 15k miles later still no 4th. Awesome bike tho!
Yammie I watched lots of your other videos and I think I scored a gold mine. I got the highly recommended first bike, the 401. Less than 1000 miles on it and all the light mods I'd already want to do. I love it!
Do a cold start, check the head pipes to see if they warm up at the same rate. Hammer second gear , also known as the wheelie gear to see if it pops out of gear.
I bought a perfect condition 07 Speed Triple a few years back with around 4k miles on it. Within the first 700 miles the stator went out. Repair shop charged me 600 dollars to replace it.
Ex-Yammie Noob Triumph should be #1 surely. Also on rust, look inside the tank, especially on older bikes. Rust inside the tank and going through the fuel system is annoying and can be an expensive fix.
Warm up the engine. Hold the front brake, put it in first, while holding the brake put a load on the engine and listen for rod or main engine bearing knocking. Could be faint and hard to hear especially if the seller knows about it and just changed the oil with a thicker oil. Especially common in sport bikes because when you wheelie oil can’t make its way back to the oil pan sump where the oil pickup sits and the bearings get oil starved. -27 years Suzuki tech -Suzuki service pro silver tech
Anytime your buying used, have it checked for a few dollars by an expert. Many bikes have OBD’s that an expert mechanic can evaluate. I live in Hawaii where the salt air loves steel, chrome even if powder coated. I buy bikes for their engine and the amount of aluminum, plastic, or carbon fiber as I hate rust. Many parts can be replaced, on bike easily, as rust takes it toll cuz of high humidity and salty air.
I'm in the process of selling my F6B Deluxe Goldwing. I hate to see her go but glad that none of these "bad used" issues apply. Semper Ride! Gunny J. OUT!
Wheel bearing end space free play, oil leaks, scale in brake fluid reservoirs (mixing Dot 4 & Dot 5 causes brake caliper pistons and brake actuator pistons (in master cylinder actuated by brake lever) to stick freeze up or lock at full brake pressure!
change the oil before buying usually a motorcycle doesn't take a lot of oil I also do that when buying an used car the reason is to see if the engine is smoking and the owner will put some thick substance to hide to smoke(it hides it for 3 days) so with the new oil you can see that if it is smoking or not
Awesome video as always! But yammie if you paid 1500+ for leaky fork seals or a fork rebuild you got robbed. It'll normally run you about $200. Keep that potent Dank content coming.
Another thing is why one may not wanna sell their old motorcycle is that when they do go out to pick it up, one might be sure somehow they cut the metal and tried to install a window or a skylight 😤
@@caelannicholls3519 yes, of course. I wouldn't have minded had he just asked in advance. Only like I've been doing this for the best part of my Life trying to keep people safe and alive, not trying to gain fame or views..
he uses a lottt of footage in these types of videos so asking for permissiom from everyone would probably triple the production time, and since it is fair use he isn't required to ask either
oil & coolant levels (first thing) ,wheel and steering bearings, electric wires (corrosion, unoriginal wires, and the way they are connected... electric gremlins are a pain in the A$$)... and there is nothing wrong with riding hard or "abusing" it as long as its maintained accordingly, the bike has 12~15k rpm so you can use it, and wheelys are ok to...
I'd say check around the engine and radiator for any leaking fluids when its running and check all the lights + horn. Bulbs can be replaced but if weird shit starts happening when you turn an indicator on or press the brakes there could be a wiring issue you don't want to take on
Great video! I look at the same thing ga when helping people shop for a new bike. The only other item I would add would the the rear sprocket. Can tell alot on how people engage the bike (hard shifts, burnouts,clutch engagement) by how the teeth are worn on the rear.
Best way to not get scammed when buying a bike: Buy either a BMW or a Harley. Both brands attract the best kind of owners that takes pride in taking care of their machines. Harleys are for those who like the image of being a "true" biker, and BMW is for those who actually want to go somewhere. A BMW can ride 800 KM daily for weeks at a time, but don´t have the same "Character" as a Harley. A Harley on the other hand will attract more looks outside the diner than a Taliban on a Ted Nugent concert, while the BMW will probably just blend in with the cars.
don`t know the relevance of the footage, I was waiting for the bike to be dropped, but it shows tape on the mirrors which is there to hold together (hopefully) any broken glass in the event of a fall and prevent the glass from covering the track. It`s easier to remove the mirrors in the first place if you are going to do a track day imo, cheaper too if you do fall.
I gave 1000.00 for my shadow. Its fired and ran great. What I didn't catch was the front brake locking up and dumping me twice. I was lucky enough to come across a kid the second time I dumped it that has a passion for wrenching on bikes that rebuilt the front brake. I rode it 40 miles home from his house, and have put over 500 miles on it in a month. I have to replace the front oil seals but for less than 1500.00 total I've gotten away cheap. (The oil seals cost me 150.00)
hey yammie :) am a new rider and no long subscribed, am from Scotland, and just past my CBT here, which I can only drive up to a 125, till I sit the bigger test, so I went out bought a Yamaha ybr 125. 2008, the bike was sitting for 8 months out the persons back door, I got it for 250 bucks, and said to my self, its just surface rust, boy was I wrong LOL,right now a have to replace all the seals, chain, exhaust, front forks, got new front and back indicaters, new foot rubbers, new cogs... feels like a noob, but thought ya might like the story :P ps LOVe yer vids man, keep it up and much love from Scotland buddy ;D
My dad got his last bike nearly brand new (Honda Shadow) and he got it super cheap because the guy sold it to him for basically what he left owed on it because he laid it over one day. The damage wasn't really bad or anything, scuffed paint and scratches, but the inspection my dad got for it said it was in perfectly rideable condition
I'd say sparkplugs are the fingerprints.. They'll tell a lot more about a bike than tire wear can. Factors including tire pressure and compound can both contribute to how a tire wears. Someone who rides extremely gingerly and never leans the bike over and someone who rides extremely aggressively launching the bike over and over doing burnouts the whole way might have the same flat profile on the rear tire. Also, notable to mention a blown fork seal indicates you're looking at a wheelie machine which further implies the bike has been abused
I agree with everything you say except one thing. Fork seal jobs do not cost that much, in Australia, a fork service aka seals and fluid will run you around $300-400 tops. Anything more than that and you are getting milked and you should reassess getting any future work done there. I had my forks done, seals replaced (skf) , fluid and stiffer progressive springs fitted - supplied by me (wilbers). $226 for springs, $100 for seals, $310 for the fork service. I opted for the more expensive parts, $636. $330 for fork service with seals and stock springs and fitting
Re fork repair... Forks rarely need more than a set of bushings and seals. Remove them from your bike yourself and just walk them in. Many times, they can do the work while you wait. And it saves a ton of money. If you ride off-road, buy a set of fork seal drivers and get a lesson on doing bushings/seals from your favorite suspension guy on how to do them.
Most of you out there probably already know this but its worth bringing up. When looking at a used bike from a private seller, before you go to the home of said seller, call them and tell them NOT to start it before you get there. When you get there, before you start it for the first time, feel the exhaust in several places all the way up to the headers and kake sure it is ice cold. You want to see how it cold starts without any weird pre-start rituals. When you turn the key and push the start button for the first time, that will let you know a lot about what to ask about mechanically.
Got 99 ninja 500 for 700 bucks. Had a rebuilt status. Only thing i truly needed to replace was a signal light and a curved handlebar. She has so.e good scars on the fairings but she runs strong af. Gonna do the clutch this winter but thats just cuz its got 20k miles on her from newbs
I laid my over parked had one little inch and half scratch nothing more. Still pissed me off severely as it was brand new fresh off the showroom floor.
I have checked batteries, an easy mess to hide. You can talk down cost of battery if it is a mess and low battery fluid on bikes can mean bikes been on its side a lot. Or a nice upgraded battery found could just sweeten the deal for you.
My gosh. It's times like this that make me feel BLESSED to have an extensive set of tools and the ability to use them. Papa Yam is right. Shop prices can cost you your unborn child's soul
smell for oil/coolant from exhaust, goes straight with no hands(frame not bent). also the tire thing will depend on weher one lives. the squaring front tire is really gonna depend on the rider's lean angle in city turns which can vary drastically from their mountain turns that wear the tire out perfectly even if they ride right.
Check if the engine/gearbox is overly clean. Nobody ever cleans that normally, so if the seller did that more often than not there are some oily spots he doesn’t want you to see
Fork seals are like $250 for a shop to replace. And honestly if they aren't leaking that bad you can get away with using a Seal Mate. Worked on my 2010 R6. They're like $5
Why isn’t the value of a quality mechanic ever mentioned? Yes they are expensive but when I throw the anchor out and stand on the brakes because I need to pull up in an emergency stop the knowledge that my machine will work as advertised is worth every dollar my local shop drains from my wallet. I commute on my daily ride and spend about $3K a year or so on maintenance. The mechanic I go to finds things I am not aware of even though I ride daily and do my own basic maintenance. In my own experience scheduled and preventative maintenance are simply a cost of peace of mind. And if you keep all the documentation your resale value is much better.
Personally I would recommend replacing fork seals yourself it'll cost £40 max including oil and theres tons of youtube tutorials out there that can help you. Why take it to a shop ; it'll probably take longer and you also wont learn anything from it.
Shit gets broke. Bikes go down. Get a flashlight and look things that are broken. I spend 20 minutes looking at a bike like this, half of that looking at the forks and where they are connected to the frame. Any sign of bending or cracks here...deal breaker.
Fork seals are not hard.. Its 200 labor + parts at local dealer to replace seals and oil.. And I just bought the damper rod holding tool for the zedex10r and two quarts of bel ray 5w, and seals for both sides. Getting ready to do mine. Expext it to take 4 to 6 hours though. It does take a while.
A good tip I think you missed out: When you want to buy a used motorcycle, ask the owner not to start it before you get there. You can tell a lot from how a cold engine starts.
1500 dollar repairbill for leaky fork seals?
Damn, somebody made alot of money off you.
was thinking the same thing....credibility lost
It should only cost between $150-$400 to replace both fork seals
I was quoted by the expensive shop near me $450 to do the seals in my 2007 ZX10R. $1,500 sounds a bit steep my dude
Yeah I was quoted around 400 and that was from a higher end shop.
I mean with that logic a valve adajustments should be 3 to 4 k😂
Yeah I was thinking the same thing like I guess that's why he's called yammie noob because he is a noob who is unaware I mean I could be wrong and it may be very expensive but I kinda doubt it like 1500 cmon I think more like 400 to 700.
Dont forget Smells too. Burning smells.. red flag
Not always. some garages spray the engine area with protective spray and when you ride it away it burns off. the spray is like ACF50
Adam66787 very true sometimes rain water when it burns off the header pipes smells and steam is emitted
@shadrock99 Especially if it's an oil injection system!
If it smells sweet definetly a no go on any vehicle.
Could be as simple as a coolant leak. Easy fix
also
- check under the rear fender for pieces of rubber, it indicates burnouts
-check engine serial code, if the vin is different ask why, it may be a good thing "engine was replaced" or it could be bad"motor or bike was stolen" and ask where the motor came from, just because the motor is different does not mean it is new.
-check for oil leaks .
You don’t do burnouts?
Wait... are you saying you don’t change your sprockets when you change your chain? Cause those are a combo.
Also, tires... you skipped the most important part. On every tire manufactured in the last 20 years you’ll find a four digit code inside of a raised oval. For example 3614. That means the tire was made in the 36th week of 2014. Low mileage tires with lots of tread are often touted as “still good” but since it’s 2019 if I saw 3614 I’d go ahead and call those tires shot regardless of tread depth because rubber doesn’t age well. Five years max for a sport bike.
Otherwise, yes. Good list.
That actually sounds extremely useful thanks
Thank you
Yup, when you buy a chain kit you have the sprockets with the chain.
Some basic math will tell you that even if worn sprockets halve the life of your chain, it's still cheaper to buy new sprockets every other chain swap.
Well said
Yammie i really appreciate this video. I have bought 5 bikes and always these are very important things to pay close attention to. Very important
You upload basically everyday
Grind don’t stop
And please don't stop.
Exactly! It's great!
Yes
of course he uploads every day, he's getting rich that way.
Pretty obvious but check if the bike has been pre-started by feeling the engine. If its hot/warm instead of cold it means that the seller either just gave it a run or is hiding something startup related. The worst thing imaginable is buying a bike and realizing afterwards that it won't properly start.
Been there. Bought an Aprilia RS 125, got it home, took it for a spin. Next day, it won't start. And much more problems appeared since then.
Agreed! Goes with cars as well. Super important to get to hear the engine cold. See weather shoke etc. works.
Now i have to change cylinder and piston
my car had a bad fly wheel, didn't realise as the seller had warmed everything up and i didn't check to see if it was warm. My own fault for that, though once ive fixed a few bits its running great.
@@EvilED08 Some dillhole tried to get me with this. I asked him to not run the car and he agreed. He claimed the car was uninsured and so he hadn't been driving it.
I got there and felt the engine - warm. So I asked him and he was like "oh yeah we just took it to the gas station real quick." Ok . . . lol
So I took a peek in the resevoir for coolant and asked if he ever used water. "Oh no always antifreeze." - It was caked up with rust.
Sucks because it was a decent car, drove well,shifted smooth and was priced fairly. If he would have been honest about any issues I probably would have still purchased it, but he scared me away with all of that lying bullshit.
Craigslist in a nutshell.. selling R1 very low miles, never dropped garage kept only 3k. You go and see and it's dented to hell, has over 40k on it, is rusted to hell, and doesn't start.
And stolen
Oil, oil filter and check the radiator coolant. It's similar in that of buying a used car. If they haven't been changing the fluids regularly it isn't a good buy.
Hey man. I’m a two week in driver. I REALLY appreciate all of your videos. You’ve taught me a lot. You’re doing a great thing in making these videos keep it up papa yam
Sign Number 1. If it is used by yammie Noob Lol
Convenient that it comes in a box.
New forks aren't a big deal when you buy a used bike
Good info except for seals are no where near 1.5-2k to fix, they're a regular maintenance item that'll normally run around $200-$300. A good way to check for leaky seals is to hold the front break and push back and forth/up and down on the handle bars
I do them all the time (mechanic). They aren't that bad and don't cost anywhere near what he said. That's just for seals and fluid change. Like you said $200-300 depending on the bike. Even a bent fork tube isn't as much as he says usually. It would have to be a complete mess to need the whole fork system replaced, and then you just grab a used set for $400
Yeah i thought that was kinda wonky, i was like no way they're that much especially when kawai,yamaha,suzuki,honda make the bikes in mass production.
Rims!!! Put the bike on the centre stand if it has (or any other stand if it doesn't) and check that the rims turn concentric and if they have any bumps on the edges.
I can't believe you didn't mention to check the DOT on the tires. Manufacturers have to print when the tires was made, 2416 would indicate the 24th week of 2016. When I bought my bike 3 years ago it looked like brand new lightly used tires, but come to find out they were from 2011, which means they loose a substantial amount of grip and safety.
Also flat areas on the rear tires specifically are more likely to indicate extended highway use rather than burn outs.
i bought a used yamaha r3 2015 raven from a girl it was a deal and a half!
it came with a showroom yoshimura exhaust, 2 sets of frame sliders (no idea why she had 2) sold a set on ebay for 100 bucks and a cover.
she did drop it but it was just a little fairing cosmetic damage (it landed on her leg impaling it with the footpeg saving a lot of damage my thinking.
she was asking 2700$ and i talked her down to 2500$
oh and did i mention it had 268 miles on it? runs great i'm at 1800 or so miles curse winter tho.
Nice deal for an r3.i just got myself a 15 RC 390 for 2250$
Dang son that's a deal
I got my 2015 r3 with a shoei 500$ helmet dainasi jacket and icon gloves with 1000 miles never dropped for 2800
It's so fun seeing people get great deals :D
Bruh thats a deal of a lifetime
Leaky forks are the worst. Last year both my bikes started leaking. I did the job myself and I didn't to it once not twice but 3 times on the first bike before it was sealed. Every exchange of seals took around 4-5h in 30°C heat. It was hell.
One thing I learned: don't use the cheap seals. Us some that are for off-road bikes that are quality. Will safe you lots of trouble time and money
Many times cleaning the fork seals with a Seal Mate type tool, or making one from a piece of plastic milk jug will stop a fork seal leak, if you do it early enough. It is often a little piece of sand holding the fork seal open. If the seal is cut or torn, this will not work.
I did my fork seals and bushings for 50 euros in parts and 2,5hrs of work, "special" tools required are something to hold the bike up and a piece of PVC pipe...
So I thought as well, until it turned out the tubes and teflon bushings needed replacing, as well. And Honda charges 250€ a pop for the tubes. At least I did it myself...
@@kostadinpantev local shop would service my cb1000r front forks for 80 euros, that's work and parts included. idk why its so expensive everywhere else.
@@MrZeepman I guess it depends on what parts needed replacement. The oil for my CBF500 cost about 15€ and the oil and dust seals cost about 30€ on eBay, which is normally what needs to be replaced. The teflon bushes were about 50€ from Honda and the tubes I sourced from a manufacturer in Poland for 192€ for the pair. Labour in Munich is about 80-90€/hour if you go to a decent shop.
Maintenance records, garage kept, oil condition, idle, are usually a good signs the bike was loved....... I own a beemer and document everything done to her ..... cool vid ......
If the bike doesn't vigorously wobble when only traveling 10 mph, you need a new bike...
Just get a harley
@@peepoobeepoo5842 harley sucks
OneRichMofo Just big mobility scooters
If the bike does not wobble at running speed get a new bike what why ?
@@milkymeats he’s joking lol, it means the forks are bent
Love your channel Clammy Pube!!! I'm a Kawi 2003 Vulcan rider. Was happy to see you back in the saddle after your smashup. Keep it up #BusaBoy
Thanks for the video, Yammie! As a brand new rider with zero bike experience I really appreciate it!
I just bought a 2008 ZX6R for 2700 last week😂
Congrats with your purchase
Mileage?
Invincible. It has 18205
Joy Buning thank you!
i bought a 2010 r6 w 16k on it for 2100 few months ago
5:25 ALWAYS swap sprockets when you change chain. Same goes for when you switch sprockets. You replace the whole set because of how they wear in together.
Some basic math will tell you that even if worn sprockets halve the life of your chain, it's still cheaper to buy new sprockets every other chain swap.
Depending on what the bike lands on in that parking lot drop, other parts can be damaged. I watched my.dad.drop his, now my wife's, VT 1100 in a parking lot at almost a dead stop, checking on his noobs in training, and it broke off a trim piece from the left front peg, as well as scratching and denting the tank. And yes, he picked it right back up, parked it,.and went in to get his cup of coffee. And we haven't repaired it yet either, even after 4 years if ownership. Someday, just not yet.
One advantage to having an ancient tech bike like my 2003 Vmax is that the forks are super simple, I did my own fork seals this spring for under $200 including the purchase of a couple tools for the install
Those *facts* at the end always remind me to like the video.
That's a smart move Yam.
A while back I was restoring European dirt bikes, usually Bultacos or Pentons, for extra money. I did everything, including painting, with the exception of rod replacement, new cylinder liners, crank realignment. Replacing fork seals was a snap, I got the correct seals and fluid for under $20. I made a fork seal driver out of a tool from my dad's 1936 John Deere toolkit. The only time I had to buy new fork sliders was for a 1972 Yamaha XS2 that I took in other than boredom. I got them from Frank's Forks in Kansas for $150.00.....
I love how you always have chopin playing super quietly in the background
Gabriel Kyne yeah that’s why his videos are so calming
One of the things I do is try to get a feel for the person you're buying from. Asking what they used the bike for, do they do their own mechanical work, how often they do those tasks, what security they use. Basically go fishing for intel. A person who neglects the bike will very quickly give themselves away, often by having no idea of common issues, service intervals etc, whereas a bike that genuinely has sat because the person doesn't/isn't able to ride it but has still cared for the bike will also out themselves.
The type of person the owner is will often tell you as much about the likely state of the bike as the all-important inspection.
In the UK we can check the road-worthiness test history (Called 'MOT'), it lists the previous tests, whether a vehicle passed or failed and any issues that have been identified and can also help pin-point anyone who has been patching cracks instead of solving issues.
what got me was the clutch! being a noob when i bought my bike. all was as it should be, but after riding it maybe a couple hrs the clutch started slipping. the seller had adjusted the clutch cable out as far as it would go and still work. had to let it sit for a week to save up 300.00 bucks, load it up in a truck i don’t have, and wait for a busy shop to fix it, a week, it was done. now it’s like new and love my bike. but check that clutch and proper adjustment on it.
You might have saved me from purchasing a sausage with wheels, it was a really nice and clean sausage, but I was in the market for a bike.
4:15 mainchain the chain...
I bought a turbo busa a few weeks ago for 3k with only 3600 miles on it. And I have replaced more things than I care to mention and have around 7k into now. But it rides like a dream
One of the most important things is where the bike came from and if the title is valid and clear. Also, look at the bottom of the pegs and see if they have been scraped. Also, check the color and condition of the oil. If you go to the guy's house, look at his house and how it is maintained. Ask a lot of questions, if the guy hesitates or seems evasive, it is likely a good idea to move on to another bike. Keep your mouth shut when the seller is talking, let him ramble on because frequently whilst he is rambling, he will reveal important information.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS KEEP GOING
I always check wheel and steering neck bearings. Wheel bearings can be checked by trying to pry against the tire and fork system. Zero play tolerance. Steering neck bearings can be checked by turning handle bars from lock to lock. There should be uniform resistance through the range and absolutely no knocking or clicking.
i also look at the metal tabs which marks the limit of your steering for damage. & a plus if the original OEM tool pouch is present & the registration is current.
a yammie vid always raises spirits, kinda like a well thought out powerpoint and casually explained, oh you guys should collaborate (assuming casually and yammie do collabs, new sub here)
Excellent point on chain maintenance!! My super tenere is shaft drive so i don’t have to worry except for hypoid oil changes!!
CHECK THE FRAME AND MOTOR MOUNTS, if it had a stunt cage or engine sliders and went down hard chances are there can be cracks in the frame or cracks near the motor mount holes. I bought a CBR600rr that had a cage for 2k and found out later that not only was the bottom front motor mount hole completely cracked because of a stunt cage, there was not even a motor mount bolt in there. So my engine was hanging on by the other bolts and had nothing on the bottom front.
great example why the cbr is not a good stunt bike, the previous owner should have stunted a 636 Kawasaki instead there frames are stronger
Run through the gears. I have no 4th on my cbr954rr but didn't realize til I got it home bcuz I only brought it up to 3rd when trying it out. 15k miles later still no 4th. Awesome bike tho!
Yo Yammie, long time listener, first time caller. Can you do a top 7 Yammie Noob Videos video.
uh... title, and oil check. but damn, forks had not occurred to me, and no one ever suggested it to me. thanks man, I appreciate it.
Check inside of the gas tank for rust or other contaminants
Yammie I watched lots of your other videos and I think I scored a gold mine. I got the highly recommended first bike, the 401. Less than 1000 miles on it and all the light mods I'd already want to do. I love it!
Do a cold start, check the head pipes to see if they warm up at the same rate. Hammer second gear , also known as the wheelie gear to see if it pops out of gear.
I bought a perfect condition 07 Speed Triple a few years back with around 4k miles on it. Within the first 700 miles the stator went out. Repair shop charged me 600 dollars to replace it.
never paid 2 grand or anything close to that for fork seals. last bike I had fork seals done on cost me around $500.
Ex-Yammie Noob Triumph should be #1 surely.
Also on rust, look inside the tank, especially on older bikes. Rust inside the tank and going through the fuel system is annoying and can be an expensive fix.
Warm up the engine. Hold the front brake, put it in first, while holding the brake put a load on the engine and listen for rod or main engine bearing knocking. Could be faint and hard to hear especially if the seller knows about it and just changed the oil with a thicker oil. Especially common in sport bikes because when you wheelie oil can’t make its way back to the oil pan sump where the oil pickup sits and the bearings get oil starved.
-27 years Suzuki tech
-Suzuki service pro silver tech
Pls a warning next time you show mila without makeup
Anytime your buying used, have it checked for a few dollars by an expert. Many bikes have OBD’s that an expert mechanic can evaluate. I live in Hawaii where the salt air loves steel, chrome even if powder coated. I buy bikes for their engine and the amount of aluminum, plastic, or carbon fiber as I hate rust. Many parts can be replaced, on bike easily, as rust takes it toll cuz of high humidity and salty air.
I'm in the process of selling my F6B Deluxe Goldwing. I hate to see her go but glad that none of these "bad used" issues apply. Semper Ride! Gunny J. OUT!
Wheel bearing end space free play, oil leaks, scale in brake fluid reservoirs (mixing Dot 4 & Dot 5 causes brake caliper pistons and brake actuator pistons (in master cylinder actuated by brake lever) to stick freeze up or lock at full brake pressure!
keep up the good work papa yam 🔥
check the oil pan crush washer. If it’s missing the previous owner doesn’t give a fudge
change the oil before buying usually a motorcycle doesn't take a lot of oil I also do that when buying an used car the reason is to see if the engine is smoking and the owner will put some thick substance to hide to smoke(it hides it for 3 days) so with the new oil you can see that if it is smoking or not
8:02 I hope the motorcycle inspection law never comes
Awesome video as always! But yammie if you paid 1500+ for leaky fork seals or a fork rebuild you got robbed. It'll normally run you about $200.
Keep that potent Dank content coming.
Another thing is why one may not wanna sell their old motorcycle is that when they do go out to pick it up, one might be sure somehow they cut the metal and tried to install a window or a skylight 😤
A simple request to use some of my footage would've been appreciated.
Uh-oh, burnnn
Did he use your footage ?
@@caelannicholls3519 yes, of course. I wouldn't have minded had he just asked in advance. Only like I've been doing this for the best part of my Life trying to keep people safe and alive, not trying to gain fame or views..
@Got_nuffin_on_me don't worry about it, so long as it's for the Greater Good, we good.
he uses a lottt of footage in these types of videos so asking for permissiom from everyone would probably triple the production time, and since it is fair use he isn't required to ask either
oil & coolant levels (first thing) ,wheel and steering bearings, electric wires (corrosion, unoriginal wires, and the way they are connected... electric gremlins are a pain in the A$$)...
and there is nothing wrong with riding hard or "abusing" it as long as its maintained accordingly, the bike has 12~15k rpm so you can use it, and wheelys are ok to...
good luck finding a perfect used bike
I'd say check around the engine and radiator for any leaking fluids when its running and check all the lights + horn. Bulbs can be replaced but if weird shit starts happening when you turn an indicator on or press the brakes there could be a wiring issue you don't want to take on
You have been killing it
Great video! I look at the same thing ga when helping people shop for a new bike. The only other item I would add would the the rear sprocket. Can tell alot on how people engage the bike (hard shifts, burnouts,clutch engagement) by how the teeth are worn on the rear.
Yamalama Luv the vids man, picking up my first bike tmrw! Good info!
Check the bottom of the bike to exaust if it runs under to or plastic to see if it has been curbed jumped to.
Best way to not get scammed when buying a bike: Buy either a BMW or a Harley. Both brands attract the best kind of owners that takes pride in taking care of their machines. Harleys are for those who like the image of being a "true" biker, and BMW is for those who actually want to go somewhere. A BMW can ride 800 KM daily for weeks at a time, but don´t have the same "Character" as a Harley. A Harley on the other hand will attract more looks outside the diner than a Taliban on a Ted Nugent concert, while the BMW will probably just blend in with the cars.
sooooo distracted by whatever the mirror situation is on the track clips
don`t know the relevance of the footage, I was waiting for the bike to be dropped, but it shows tape on the mirrors which is there to hold together (hopefully) any broken glass in the event of a fall and prevent the glass from covering the track. It`s easier to remove the mirrors in the first place if you are going to do a track day imo, cheaper too if you do fall.
I'm looking for a new bike right now so I'm glad you posted this
Thanks yammie for your hard work making these videos, thx brudda man
I gave 1000.00 for my shadow. Its fired and ran great. What I didn't catch was the front brake locking up and dumping me twice. I was lucky enough to come across a kid the second time I dumped it that has a passion for wrenching on bikes that rebuilt the front brake. I rode it 40 miles home from his house, and have put over 500 miles on it in a month. I have to replace the front oil seals but for less than 1500.00 total I've gotten away cheap. (The oil seals cost me 150.00)
4:16 Mainchain the chain *Ushers yeah begins playing in the background*
hey yammie :) am a new rider and no long subscribed, am from Scotland, and just past my CBT here, which I can only drive up to a 125, till I sit the bigger test, so I went out bought a Yamaha ybr 125. 2008, the bike was sitting for 8 months out the persons back door, I got it for 250 bucks, and said to my self, its just surface rust, boy was I wrong LOL,right now a have to replace all the seals, chain, exhaust, front forks, got new front and back indicaters, new foot rubbers, new cogs... feels like a noob, but thought ya might like the story :P ps LOVe yer vids man, keep it up and much love from Scotland buddy ;D
My dad got his last bike nearly brand new (Honda Shadow) and he got it super cheap because the guy sold it to him for basically what he left owed on it because he laid it over one day. The damage wasn't really bad or anything, scuffed paint and scratches, but the inspection my dad got for it said it was in perfectly rideable condition
I'd say sparkplugs are the fingerprints.. They'll tell a lot more about a bike than tire wear can. Factors including tire pressure and compound can both contribute to how a tire wears. Someone who rides extremely gingerly and never leans the bike over and someone who rides extremely aggressively launching the bike over and over doing burnouts the whole way might have the same flat profile on the rear tire. Also, notable to mention a blown fork seal indicates you're looking at a wheelie machine which further implies the bike has been abused
Another great video from Yammie. Dude is on a roll
I agree with everything you say except one thing. Fork seal jobs do not cost that much, in Australia, a fork service aka seals and fluid will run you around $300-400 tops. Anything more than that and you are getting milked and you should reassess getting any future work done there. I had my forks done, seals replaced (skf) , fluid and stiffer progressive springs fitted - supplied by me (wilbers). $226 for springs, $100 for seals, $310 for the fork service. I opted for the more expensive parts, $636. $330 for fork service with seals and stock springs and fitting
Gd video man all great tips also here’s 1 more Sit on the bike to make sure the rear shock aren’t totally worn out an test them out a lil
Re fork repair...
Forks rarely need more than a set of bushings and seals. Remove them from your bike yourself and just walk them in.
Many times, they can do the work while you wait. And it saves a ton of money.
If you ride off-road, buy a set of fork seal drivers and get a lesson on doing bushings/seals from your favorite suspension guy on how to do them.
Most of you out there probably already know this but its worth bringing up. When looking at a used bike from a private seller, before you go to the home of said seller, call them and tell them NOT to start it before you get there. When you get there, before you start it for the first time, feel the exhaust in several places all the way up to the headers and kake sure it is ice cold. You want to see how it cold starts without any weird pre-start rituals. When you turn the key and push the start button for the first time, that will let you know a lot about what to ask about mechanically.
Ummm, Ducati rider here...fork seals after I take off the bike and bring to a rockin Ducati dealer (Ferracci) 175.00.
Got 99 ninja 500 for 700 bucks. Had a rebuilt status. Only thing i truly needed to replace was a signal light and a curved handlebar. She has so.e good scars on the fairings but she runs strong af. Gonna do the clutch this winter but thats just cuz its got 20k miles on her from newbs
I laid my over parked had one little inch and half scratch nothing more. Still pissed me off severely as it was brand new fresh off the showroom floor.
Great video👍 great information👍👍 its nicer with just the talking👌👌
I have checked batteries, an easy mess to hide. You can talk down cost of battery if it is a mess and low battery fluid on bikes can mean bikes been on its side a lot. Or a nice upgraded battery found could just sweeten the deal for you.
My gosh. It's times like this that make me feel BLESSED to have an extensive set of tools and the ability to use them. Papa Yam is right. Shop prices can cost you your unborn child's soul
smell for oil/coolant from exhaust, goes straight with no hands(frame not bent). also the tire thing will depend on weher one lives. the squaring front tire is really gonna depend on the rider's lean angle in city turns which can vary drastically from their mountain turns that wear the tire out perfectly even if they ride right.
Check if the engine/gearbox is overly clean. Nobody ever cleans that normally, so if the seller did that more often than not there are some oily spots he doesn’t want you to see
Fork seals are like $250 for a shop to replace. And honestly if they aren't leaking that bad you can get away with using a Seal Mate. Worked on my 2010 R6. They're like $5
Why isn’t the value of a quality mechanic ever mentioned? Yes they are expensive but when I throw the anchor out and stand on the brakes because I need to pull up in an emergency stop the knowledge that my machine will work as advertised is worth every dollar my local shop drains from my wallet. I commute on my daily ride and spend about $3K a year or so on maintenance. The mechanic I go to finds things I am not aware of even though I ride daily and do my own basic maintenance. In my own experience scheduled and preventative maintenance are simply a cost of peace of mind. And if you keep all the documentation your resale value is much better.
I did a baby drop one time. On a fricken dirt driveway with ruts in it haha. Owell.
Ignition switch to for switch being changed and neck numbers to title numbers for stolen bikes. I got screwed one time by that.
Personally I would recommend replacing fork seals yourself it'll cost £40 max including oil and theres tons of youtube tutorials out there that can help you. Why take it to a shop ; it'll probably take longer and you also wont learn anything from it.
Shit gets broke. Bikes go down. Get a flashlight and look things that are broken. I spend 20 minutes looking at a bike like this, half of that looking at the forks and where they are connected to the frame. Any sign of bending or cracks here...deal breaker.
Very educating videos for riders bro.
Fork seals are not hard.. Its 200 labor + parts at local dealer to replace seals and oil.. And I just bought the damper rod holding tool for the zedex10r and two quarts of bel ray 5w, and seals for both sides. Getting ready to do mine. Expext it to take 4 to 6 hours though. It does take a while.