Great video. The way it's produced is awesome. It is not a learn how to be a mechanic video. It's a step-by-step for those who have the ability already. Awesome job!
Seeking your advice as I have found the issue. About 4 years ago a local mechanic replaced the Oil Pressure Regulator which he believed was causing the low oil pressure. It stopped the Low Oil Pressure warning light for a while, then it returned. Yesterday in rebuilding the rear oil pump I removed the bolt holding in the regulator. The spring came out, then nothing. I was able to remove the inner valve with a pliers, then 4 pieces fell out. The Top, it's 3 of the 4 side pieces and the Bottom. It was the outer valve that had broken in half. I believe one of the side pieces fell out when I was cleaning the PTO housing. Have you ever seen a Oil Pressure Regulator Crack ? Was the Spring or bolt too tight? I do remember the mechanic saying they had to put in 2 springs as per SeaDoo and yes there are 2 springs. By the way, I have posted several of my boat videos with installing a mechanic oil pressure gauge if you want to see them.
We have not seen any problems with the oil pressure regulator so can't really help there. It's odd yours was in pieces was it the sleeve or piston that came out in pieces ?
Great videos! They are extremely helpful. I was hoping to find some info on getting the thermostat out and testing it but did not see any videos on your list with this. I just picked up a 2002 GTX 4-TEC. Before buying it I test drove it for 20 minutes, high speed, low speed, power on/off multiple times, with no problems. Oil looked good, coolant looked good. Ran great. After purchasing it I took it out a few days later. Just after getting it off the trailer idling and going slow for about 10 minutes in a now wake zone it overheated. Beeping with High Temp warning. Took it home and found coolant very low. Had to add almost 1/2 a gallon. Oil looks good. Runs ok connected to water hose, but overflow tank gets very hot and under pressure. No apparent leaks anywhere. I was thinking maybe thermostat is stuck or impeller not working, but do not see any videos anywhere on these so I suspect these are not common problems. Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
Sorry, we haven't had that issue yet so haven't filmed the repair. One day, though... I did experience a similar issue that you're having on a 2003 GTX 185. I replaced the water pump (and thermostat), but it didn't fix it. Unfortunately, the machine had a catastrophic failure before we could get to the bottom of the issue so I'm not sure what the problem was. It could be the thermostat in your issue, though. It's hard to say. Have you checked for codes? If so, what codes do you have? If not, you should check as it's likely you've thrown a code and it will be very useful in diagnosing.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Gerald Damien thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I am getting oil into my coolant, overheating and making a milky mess. I already milled the head, changed the gasket and head bolts and I'm still getting oil into the coolant. Before I try this rebuild, is it possible that the oil and water pump seals are leaking enough to cause this? Isn't there a weep hole to drain the fluid in case either of these seals fail? Thanks for making great videos!
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, you can also get oil in the coolant through the oil cooler. You should check that out. You can also get it through the seal in the water pump. Good luck!
So followed each step and it looks like the rear spins pretty easy on video when assembled. Mine takes a bit of force to spin it. compared to the front. What did I miss?
Not sure. It should not be difficult to spin. New seals may give some resistance, but with a bit of assembly oil they shouldn't put up too much of a fight. If the seals, etc. aren't aligned properly, that can cause some resistance. I would look into it and find if there are any binding areas and don't just assume it's put together right. Good luck!
Absolutely amazing video and appreciate you taking the time to make it. I have a 2010 SeaDoo Challenger boat (2 x 4-Tec 215hp). Starboard motor no issues, port motor get a brief low oil pressure warning ONLY between 3000-4000 rpm. It then goes away, can run the boat at 6000+ RPM (35+ mph) for long periods, no issues. Replaced oil pressure switch twice, no avail. I have now installed mechanical oil pressure gauges off the top of the head port so I can watch the pressure. Now, I am curious - if I have to replace the front and rear oil pumps Do I have to REMOVE the motor? I have a ton of space to work on it. I failed to say - 2 years ago had a SeaDoo Mechanic replace the oil pressure regulator valve spring on the bottom of the motor. He had to pull the motor. Thanks again !!
Hey Brian, I guess if you have a ton of space to work on it you may not need to pull the motor. But on our Sea-Doos it would be such a nightmare to do without removing the engine that it wouldn't be worth the time you thought you were saving by not pulling it. It is possible that you have ineffective oil flow (i.e. not a switch problem) so you should definitely resolve the issue before running it much more. Good luck!
Finally pulled my 1 Motor in my SeaDoo 210 Challenger (2x215hp) and getting ready to start this process. Need to order the parts and I am on the fence about ordering the WSM, SBT or SeaDoo OEM Parts ? Any guidance would be appreciated.
For those types of parts we always go OEM. It may cost a bit more, but we can ride with confidence when we know we’ve got the right parts in our engines. Good luck with your project.
@ 4:05 you are pressing the rotary seal with your fingers & it moves back & foward ! Is that normal? Shouldn't it stay still in place? Why does it move back & foward?
How it going guys, i have a 2009 sea doo RXT 255is with the cost P0523. Runs great just had this code and engine light on. Should I try swapping out the Oil pressure switch first?
That’s a tough one. I had the same problem a number of years ago on a machine but after replacing the switch it did not fix the problem. You may need to clear the code after replacing it. If it still doesn’t work, you will have to investigate another possible cause. Good luck.
Hello, scratching on the housing, do you machine it down or are you just leaving it? Im tearing apart a seadoo 4 tec with compressor failure. Greeting from Sweden.
It really depends where the damage is, and how severe it is. If it's just cosmetic, we'll normally leave it. If you have any pictures, feel free to send them to: 3ftDeepChannel@gmail.com.
Do the oil pumps need to be rebuilt at the same time? If I rebuild the rear oil pump do I need to rebuild the front as well? Or do you recommend doing the both at the same time? Thank you
Only if there is visible damage to the mechanism. Damage can occur if metal debris circulates throughout the engine, as can happen after supercharger failure.
Have you confirmed you actually have the proper amount of oil? If so, check your connector for the oil sensor as it may not be making proper contact with the sensor, or the cable may be damaged.
I think you’re referring to assembly lube. That’s an oil that helps to lubricate new parts when put into an engine to prevent wear before the oil gets properly circulated.
4:02 how much space do you leave between the pto cover and the oil pump shaft if you want, you can press it all the way to the end, but that is not the intention, I assume.
When installing the oil pump shaft you are not really pressing it into the PTO cover you are pressing it through the water pump seal look at the video around the 3:10 mark you can see the spring loaded water pump seal during disassembly. After install you can see some of the play in the spring loaded seal at the 4:06 mark I would suggest getting the correct water pump seal holder as it's really easy to mess up the seal if it's not supported correctly when pressing the shaft through, SeaDoo part number is 529 036 014.
Great video, I have been having issues with my oil being pumped out of the breather on the same model 2005 rxp, have changed impellers and rotors on both pumps but seems to be worse, have also changed both pressure switches, any ideas? Pumps out about 100mils/hr at 5-6000 revs but a lot more with higher revs
3ftDeep not modified just had new piston and rings and bearings 128psi on each piston, intercooler sprang a leak so was slight rust stain in bore but honed out ok, was doing the same with oil before rebuiĺd hence why we did oil pumps
It wasn't that hard. I think you're referring to the marks that were made as a result of the supercharger failure (i.e. bearing parts were flying around inside the engine).
Just replaced both front and rear covers and rebuilt the oil pumps. Went to fill it with coolant and found a leak through the weep hole in the front cover. Service manual says if its coolant then the rotary seal is leaking. What could I have done wrong I tried following your video when installing the new rotary seal, I looked everywhere and was not able to find the actual seedoo tool. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The water pump rotary seal is a spring loaded ceramic seal that if not supported properly is easily damaged when pressing in the oil pump shaft you could try riding the ski and see if the leak continues if it does then you will have to replace the seal again. I was able to get the seal support tool from my local dealer, part number 529 035 823.
Looks like when you press the shaft in you are supporting the seal underneath with the socket end of a 3/8 socket. Am I correct or is that a specific tool?
Good eyes! I don’t know the exact socket size that we used, but it was not a special tool. It was just a socket that fit the job. Thanks for your comment.
When the shaft is pressed into the rotary seal how far does it go in. When I did it the first time I went to far and the shaft was binding so I removed and repressed into the seal a bit before the threads. It seems flush with pump cover but doesn’t quit sit on the shaft like yours(a bit back from the threads about 2mm). But does spring in and out like your and moves freely.
Podría deberse a varias causas. Intente rociar su motor con un poco de desengrasante y luego sáquelo a dar un paseo. Luego busque la fuga en el motor, especialmente alrededor de la junta de la culata, el enfriador de aceite, la tapa de válvulas (bujías). ¡Buena suerte!
The ski runs fine it goes 74 miles an hour no oil lights or anything has come on I’m in the process of cleaning out the whole really good I have everything out of the back I’m about to probably pull the supercharger because it’s probably time to do it anyway at 85 hours and if it’s down it’s down I’ll just get it done
If you have never had the supercharger rebuilt, don’t run your engine again until you do as those superchargers will fail and could destroy your engine. Good luck.
The video is very good, but latley all the videos you guys do, are very fast, and not so detailed as before step by step, and it's hard to follow. The videos at the begining were very well explained and it was just great to learn from you guys, and apply it. But those are just nice to watch, not really helpful if you want to do the job yourself. :/
Thanks for the feedback, Matan. I'll slow it down a bit next time. The only thing I've been cutting out though are steps that are available in other videos (links are provided as "cards"), and some of the screw installations.
Great video. The way it's produced is awesome. It is not a learn how to be a mechanic video. It's a step-by-step for those who have the ability already. Awesome job!
Thanks!
Seeking your advice as I have found the issue. About 4 years ago a local mechanic replaced the Oil Pressure Regulator which he believed was causing the low oil pressure. It stopped the Low Oil Pressure warning light for a while, then it returned. Yesterday in rebuilding the rear oil pump I removed the bolt holding in the regulator. The spring came out, then nothing. I was able to remove the inner valve with a pliers, then 4 pieces fell out. The Top, it's 3 of the 4 side pieces and the Bottom. It was the outer valve that had broken in half. I believe one of the side pieces fell out when I was cleaning the PTO housing. Have you ever seen a Oil Pressure Regulator Crack ? Was the Spring or bolt too tight? I do remember the mechanic saying they had to put in 2 springs as per SeaDoo and yes there are 2 springs. By the way, I have posted several of my boat videos with installing a mechanic oil pressure gauge if you want to see them.
We have not seen any problems with the oil pressure regulator so can't really help there. It's odd yours was in pieces was it the sleeve or piston that came out in pieces ?
amazing quality
Great videos! They are extremely helpful.
I was hoping to find some info on getting the thermostat out and testing it but did not see any videos on your list with this.
I just picked up a 2002 GTX 4-TEC. Before buying it I test drove it for 20 minutes, high speed, low speed, power on/off multiple times, with no problems. Oil looked good, coolant looked good. Ran great. After purchasing it I took it out a few days later. Just after getting it off the trailer idling and going slow for about 10 minutes in a now wake zone it overheated. Beeping with High Temp warning. Took it home and found coolant very low. Had to add almost 1/2 a gallon. Oil looks good. Runs ok connected to water hose, but overflow tank gets very hot and under pressure. No apparent leaks anywhere. I was thinking maybe thermostat is stuck or impeller not working, but do not see any videos anywhere on these so I suspect these are not common problems.
Any thoughts would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks
Sorry, we haven't had that issue yet so haven't filmed the repair. One day, though... I did experience a similar issue that you're having on a 2003 GTX 185. I replaced the water pump (and thermostat), but it didn't fix it. Unfortunately, the machine had a catastrophic failure before we could get to the bottom of the issue so I'm not sure what the problem was. It could be the thermostat in your issue, though. It's hard to say. Have you checked for codes? If so, what codes do you have? If not, you should check as it's likely you've thrown a code and it will be very useful in diagnosing.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me.
@Gordon Bentley instablaster =)
@Gerald Damien thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Gerald Damien It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
I am getting oil into my coolant, overheating and making a milky mess. I already milled the head, changed the gasket and head bolts and I'm still getting oil into the coolant. Before I try this rebuild, is it possible that the oil and water pump seals are leaking enough to cause this? Isn't there a weep hole to drain the fluid in case either of these seals fail?
Thanks for making great videos!
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, you can also get oil in the coolant through the oil cooler. You should check that out. You can also get it through the seal in the water pump. Good luck!
So followed each step and it looks like the rear spins pretty easy on video when assembled. Mine takes a bit of force to spin it. compared to the front. What did I miss?
Not sure. It should not be difficult to spin. New seals may give some resistance, but with a bit of assembly oil they shouldn't put up too much of a fight. If the seals, etc. aren't aligned properly, that can cause some resistance. I would look into it and find if there are any binding areas and don't just assume it's put together right. Good luck!
3ftDeep thank you for following up and thanks for the videos!
Absolutely amazing video and appreciate you taking the time to make it. I have a 2010 SeaDoo Challenger boat (2 x 4-Tec 215hp). Starboard motor no issues, port motor get a brief low oil pressure warning ONLY between 3000-4000 rpm. It then goes away, can run the boat at 6000+ RPM (35+ mph) for long periods, no issues. Replaced oil pressure switch twice, no avail. I have now installed mechanical oil pressure gauges off the top of the head port so I can watch the pressure. Now, I am curious - if I have to replace the front and rear oil pumps Do I have to REMOVE the motor? I have a ton of space to work on it. I failed to say - 2 years ago had a SeaDoo Mechanic replace the oil pressure regulator valve spring on the bottom of the motor. He had to pull the motor. Thanks again !!
Hey Brian, I guess if you have a ton of space to work on it you may not need to pull the motor. But on our Sea-Doos it would be such a nightmare to do without removing the engine that it wouldn't be worth the time you thought you were saving by not pulling it. It is possible that you have ineffective oil flow (i.e. not a switch problem) so you should definitely resolve the issue before running it much more. Good luck!
Finally pulled my 1 Motor in my SeaDoo 210 Challenger (2x215hp) and getting ready to start this process. Need to order the parts and I am on the fence about ordering the WSM, SBT or SeaDoo OEM Parts ? Any guidance would be appreciated.
For those types of parts we always go OEM. It may cost a bit more, but we can ride with confidence when we know we’ve got the right parts in our engines. Good luck with your project.
@ 4:05 you are pressing the rotary seal with your fingers & it moves back & foward ! Is that normal? Shouldn't it stay still in place? Why does it move back & foward?
Yes, it was spring loaded.
How it going guys, i have a 2009 sea doo RXT 255is with the cost P0523. Runs great just had this code and engine light on. Should I try swapping out the Oil pressure switch first?
That’s a tough one. I had the same problem a number of years ago on a machine but after replacing the switch it did not fix the problem. You may need to clear the code after replacing it. If it still doesn’t work, you will have to investigate another possible cause. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel could I rebuild the oil pumps without pulling the motor out of the ski?
In theory yes, but it would be a huge pain in the neck.
Hello, scratching on the housing, do you machine it down or are you just leaving it? Im tearing apart a seadoo 4 tec with compressor failure. Greeting from Sweden.
It really depends where the damage is, and how severe it is. If it's just cosmetic, we'll normally leave it. If you have any pictures, feel free to send them to: 3ftDeepChannel@gmail.com.
Thank you for replying, Will do when I get some pictures👍
Is there any special way the dots on the pump line up or do they just go in facing the same direction and that"s it?
I’m not sure what you’re referring to. What is the time stamp on the video?
Do the oil pumps need to be rebuilt at the same time? If I rebuild the rear oil pump do I need to rebuild the front as well? Or do you recommend doing the both at the same time? Thank you
Only if there is visible damage to the mechanism. Damage can occur if metal debris circulates throughout the engine, as can happen after supercharger failure.
I have seadoo 2020 230 gtr I get warning. Low oil pressure
I’ve replaced the oil sensor still after 10mjns warning comes on. Next step from here
Have you confirmed you actually have the proper amount of oil? If so, check your connector for the oil sensor as it may not be making proper contact with the sensor, or the cable may be damaged.
What is the stuff you are putting on the oil pump gear? Thanks
I think you’re referring to assembly lube. That’s an oil that helps to lubricate new parts when put into an engine to prevent wear before the oil gets properly circulated.
how far do you press the oil ash in if you want you can squeeze it all the way to the end how much space do you leave? Thnx in advance
Sorry, I don’t understand. What do you mean “oil ash”? It would help if you refer to a time on the video you’re asking about.
4:02 how much space do you leave between the pto cover and the oil pump shaft if you want, you can press it all the way to the end, but that is not the intention, I assume.
When installing the oil pump shaft you are not really pressing it into the PTO cover you are pressing it through the water pump seal look at the video around the 3:10 mark you can see the spring loaded water pump seal during disassembly. After install you can see some of the play in the spring loaded seal at the 4:06 mark I would suggest getting the correct water pump seal holder as it's really easy to mess up the seal if it's not supported correctly when pressing the shaft through, SeaDoo part number is 529 036 014.
Great video, I have been having issues with my oil being pumped out of the breather on the same model 2005 rxp, have changed impellers and rotors on both pumps but seems to be worse, have also changed both pressure switches, any ideas? Pumps out about 100mils/hr at 5-6000 revs but a lot more with higher revs
Is it stock, or has it been modified?
3ftDeep not modified just had new piston and rings and bearings 128psi on each piston, intercooler sprang a leak so was slight rust stain in bore but honed out ok, was doing the same with oil before rebuiĺd hence why we did oil pumps
Not sure. It's one of those things I need to see in order to be much help.
I'm having the same problem, error code for oil pressure, and lots of oil coming from breather pipe, filling my catch can like crazy.
1:04 is it brass wire wheel or regular? Thanks.
I usually use a steel wire wheel.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks
how hard was it to get the outer part of the pump shaft assembly out? from the marks it looks like it was pretty hard.
It wasn't that hard. I think you're referring to the marks that were made as a result of the supercharger failure (i.e. bearing parts were flying around inside the engine).
Just replaced both front and rear covers and rebuilt the oil pumps. Went to fill it with coolant and found a leak through the weep hole in the front cover. Service manual says if its coolant then the rotary seal is leaking. What could I have done wrong I tried following your video when installing the new rotary seal, I looked everywhere and was not able to find the actual seedoo tool. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The water pump rotary seal is a spring loaded ceramic seal that if not supported properly is easily damaged when pressing in the oil pump shaft you could try riding the ski and see if the leak continues if it does then you will have to replace the seal again. I was able to get the seal support tool from my local dealer, part number 529 035 823.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for responding, I will try riding it and seeing if it stops leaking.
Looks like when you press the shaft in you are supporting the seal underneath with the socket end of a 3/8 socket. Am I correct or is that a specific tool?
Good eyes! I don’t know the exact socket size that we used, but it was not a special tool. It was just a socket that fit the job. Thanks for your comment.
When the shaft is pressed into the rotary seal how far does it go in. When I did it the first time I went to far and the shaft was binding so I removed and repressed into the seal a bit before the threads. It seems flush with pump cover but doesn’t quit sit on the shaft like yours(a bit back from the threads about 2mm). But does spring in and out like your and moves freely.
You really need to use the proper tool, and then you press it carefully until it bottoms out. That is the correct depth.
My same thoughts. Order new seal and the tool. Too much work to be guessing. Thanks for your videos much appreciated
Hola soy de argentina, tengo una rxp 215 con perdida de aceite. Viene de abajo del motor. Que puede ser? Ayuda
Podría deberse a varias causas. Intente rociar su motor con un poco de desengrasante y luego sáquelo a dar un paseo. Luego busque la fuga en el motor, especialmente alrededor de la junta de la culata, el enfriador de aceite, la tapa de válvulas (bujías). ¡Buena suerte!
Big job I just don’t have the tools I got semi truck tools 😬
They’ll pay for themselves after a couple of jobs. They don’t have to be Snap-On!
Hello, I have a question how to replace the motor shaft multi-shaft drive in sea doo spark 2015 year
Sorry, Sparks are one machine we haven't had experience with. I suggest getting hold of the Service Manual for your model. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Yes, I am from Poland and in the sea doo spark crankshaft for exchange 9 hours and exchanged for a new one, what help
What's oil pumps are you using? I want to replace mines i don't want to buy cheap parts either. Thanks
We always use OEM for parts like those. Thanks for your comment.
can the waterpump seal be replaced with motor in ski? 2006 gtx limited
Yes, you will need to drain the coolant first, though.
How do you press the new seal in if the motor is in the ski?
Yes, that’s a very good question. It’s easy to ruin the seal, so it would need to be done with lots of finesse. We haven’t done it like that before.
Nice video
Anyone know of a good place to get mine worked on In Texas?
I see you haven't received any suggestions to your comment. I guess your best bet is going to your local dealer. Good luck.
I think I need this done my 2007 RXP has oil in the hull floor does anybody know someone in George that does this repair
See if you can find where the oil is coming from, first. Good luck with your repair.
Looks like it’s coming from underneath the supercharger I guess that’s the oil cooler area
The ski runs fine it goes 74 miles an hour no oil lights or anything has come on I’m in the process of cleaning out the whole really good I have everything out of the back I’m about to probably pull the supercharger because it’s probably time to do it anyway at 85 hours and if it’s down it’s down I’ll just get it done
If you have never had the supercharger rebuilt, don’t run your engine again until you do as those superchargers will fail and could destroy your engine. Good luck.
Great background music
What brand do you recommend
Get OEM parts for this job.
What is the socket number? lol
Maybe I’m just getting old, but I don’t get it.
@@3ftDeepChannel i was talking about the socket you used to press the oil retainer. Heheh.
Ah, yes. That’s top secret, of course.
The video is very good, but latley all the videos you guys do, are very fast, and not so detailed as before step by step, and it's hard to follow. The videos at the begining were very well explained and it was just great to learn from you guys, and apply it. But those are just nice to watch, not really helpful if you want to do the job yourself. :/
Thanks for the feedback, Matan. I'll slow it down a bit next time. The only thing I've been cutting out though are steps that are available in other videos (links are provided as "cards"), and some of the screw installations.
That will be $3,700 sir
It's not gonna be cheap! (but better than replacing your entire engine)
@@3ftDeepChannel what could this cost at a shop?
This is an expensive job, as they have to take apart the engine to rebuild these. You’d be looking at $thousands$ in labor and parts.