I had a solonoid click only, I removed the starter and found the top bearing seized and could be barely turned. so I dissembled the starter all but the armeture , housing and bottom end plate, I then carefully wire brushed the top armeture shaft at the bearing point and reassembled it and it worked perfectly.
Always Check your seat switch and control arm switches first since they are much easier to get to. Mine was throwing a "park brake" light as well and it was the right side control arm switch. Always start with the easy stuff first Mine has two park break safety switches that are in the same spot as this one held on by 2 5/16 bolts . No need to remove battery but you do have to stick your arm in from the back and blindly unscrew starting with the bottom switch first. Once you get both bolts out of the switches there is enough wire to pull them out into view still connected. Pull the switches off the connectors and use a multimeter to check continuity. 2 of the poles should read open when switch is not engaged and 2 should show continuity. Once the switch is pressed you should see the opposite condition.
Shred Warrior Thank you for sharing your experience. There is no way to get your arm into this mower to remove the seat switches. It’s fully blocked by the battery and gas tank. The wires also aren’t long enough to pull the switch out into view. There are several designs for this mower.
Good point on yours I am fortunate to have the design where the fuel tank is under the wheel well. I didn’t notice the different configuration when I watched your video the first time. Thanks for pointing that out. A wise man once told me always check the simple stuff first or as Carl Childers says “it ain’t got no gas in it umm humm”....
I have the Troy Built version of this mower and I am getting the "Park Brake" light as well. Mine has 2 of the parking brake safety switches stacked on top of each other. I replaced the switches and still have the same issue. I will now try testing the control arm switches after reading this. Hopefully that is my problem. If not, what else could this be?
glad to have found you. have almost identical mower. someone rewired it to remove all the safty switches, and now, battery has to be charged each time.. first thing I noticed, you do not have "extra wires" on you battery post, like mine does.. somewhere, something is draining me.
Mr. Randy Interesting. I would like to disable the switches that cut the PTO off when I go in reverse but the others are helpful. I'm not sure what could be drawing power. You never know what they wired incorrectly. Maybe you could buy a battery tender that will keep your battery at full capacity when not in use. They make your battery last much longer anyway so it would be a great investment.
I'm having a similar issue with my RZT 22... about a month ago I had to order a new ignition switch for it and then about a week and a half ago i was on a property and shut it off to fill up the gas tank... it wouldn't start back up... I found that I could jumper the solenoid to get it going to hopefully just finish out the season since we've only got like 3 or 4 weeks left but I was only able to do that until this past monday when that stopped starting it... I replaced the solenoid and did determine the orange wire that you were pointing to is part of the problem... personally I feel these mowers have WAAAAAAAAAAAAY to many safety switches on them... if you're not an idiot then all you really need is the parking break safety switch... nice video btw... pretty much confirmed what I was thinking for mine... MTD really needs to include a hatch that we can remove to easily get to under the seat.
I had rzt 50 that had no click, and no power to key switch. Searched, traced wires even trid new solenoid even though old one test ok. Was at a loss. Finally pulled all the wires and all the switches from under the seat and insde the black fenders and had everything hanging off the side including the solenoid. With everything right there in front of me I set all the switches as they would be if I was starting the machine. After lubing switches and spraying with electronic cleaner, i connected the battery to see what I could find by wiggling wires and/or pushing or pulling switches etc. But I thought I’d turnthe key just to see if srarter would engage. To my complete surprise, it did. I’m thinking by removing and moving everything around there may have been a switch stuck or something grounded that needed to be dislodged. Everything is back in place and switch is still powered. I wish I could say I found the exact problem but it’s stii a mystery to me. Power was going to solenoid and fuse wire was powered but not at switch. Led me to believe a wire problem from fuse to switch but with everything hard to reach under the seat, I decided to pull it all where I could see it. Whatever happened, it seems okay now. Hope this helps somebody who might have same issue.
Great video to show the problem and how to resolve. Wish my Husqvarna had that four-light panel to show where the problem is. It will start cold, but once hot turning the key does nothing - acting like a safety switch cutoff. Needs several hours to cool down to allow whatever switch to reset and allow a restart. That parking brake switch is a pain in the @$$. Most times the brake is not required at all since you're sitting level. But you have to set it just to start. Since the levers have to be in neutral to start as well, there's no chance the mower can just take off when started. This "safety" is to the manufacturers, not the users. The other three switches make some sense. Not this one. And what a pain to remove! Levering clips always has a chance to break them, meaning another part to replace. The seat safety switch will kill the engine whenever it's not engaged, starting or running. But the other switches only inhibit starting, not running. How does that work?
@@TightWadDIY Thanks. At least the switches are fairly accessible. I can work around this by making sure I finish mowing before shutting down. But still. I don't have the inclination to troubleshoot this, but if I take it to the shop it'll have to be "hot" for them to isolate.
I have the same mower and after removing the battery there was no clear view of the switch. It would be really great to have more detail on access to the switch.
The view at 5:20 in the video was the view from the battery location towards the front of the mower. The gray box farthest from the camera is the back side of the switch. Is there something in the way on your mower?
+TightWadRepairs Yes. part of the bottom of the seat frame completely blocks the view on mine. I think mine may be a year older than yours as I just noticed the hour meter looks a little different. All else looks identical though.
What would you say to someone that is getting the same trouble light but I've replaced the switch twice with no improvement. Is there a simple way to by pass this all the way? Desperate!!
It could be a different switch. I’ve had issues with the parking brake switch too. I don’t know of a way to bypass all of them. You could try jumping the solenoid to start it.
How much do these go for? I seen one where the guy was asking $500 and said it has spark but won't start. Thought it might be worth it if it has compression.
@@TightWadDIY yeah I seen that. After I removed them to replace them and noticed they had 4 wires going in instead of two. Thanks for the reply though.
Nice videoI. have a Cub Cadet ltx1046 where I was fighting similar issues this morning. I disconnected all the safety switches( just did not want to use them ) but then narrowed it down to a bad ignition switch. This is my 3rd Cub Cadet, so I do like the brand. But I have heard the these ignition switches are prone to fail. Thanks for a good video.
I have a 2005 Cub cadet zero turn. I have changed fuses, and put new battery on it. The lights won't come on for the battery and it still won't crank. What else do I need to check ?
Each model is different. You can download the parts manual online or look up the part numbers on the Cub Cadet website using your mower model number found under the seat.
Great video buddy I have almost the same unit sitting here in front of me right now new starter solenoid not the ignition switch as I have switched it with another tractor I'm not getting power to my hour meter I'm getting no lightsit will run the engine with the ignition switch on if you jump the solenoid will not start with key will not stay running I'll make it stay running I can deal with the carburetor I'm guessing a ground or maybe a mouse chewed a wire
@@TightWadDIY highly doubtful because no power to hour meter or warning lights. I ran out of time last night. I'll be leaving in time to really check it out. What are you thinking? Thanks for the reply
Fred Stone You may have to start checking safety switches. It can be a pain to remove each one but I’m betting one of them is bad. I’ve had to remove and clean my parking brake safety switch twice.
@@TightWadDIY I hear you buddy but I don't think that that would cause the condition where I don't have power to any of the lights but yet with the key on it does energize the coil
@@TightWadDIY I do appreciate you getting back and I want any help you can give I'm just trying to let you know exactly the symptoms I'm looking at I was checking out your channel man I really like it we're out on the farm now and time to start thinking more that way
My mower dosent have a parking brake and I havent seen slsafety switches associated with the handle bars steerage though they must be in the open pos IU tion to crank the mower.
I have a few questions my zero turn wouldn't start either and I replace the new solenoid just wondering is there an actual way to hook up the solenoid because of the two post or shouldn't it matter
Jake Friesen Yes. It needs to be set up a certain way. The cable from the battery goes on the left side, and the other thicker cable going to the starter goes on the right. The smaller cable from the key switch goes to the spade.
@@TightWadDIY it starts with the park brake engaged but when you release the park break the mower dies, so i unplug the switch and it keeps running. So maybe a switch somewhere else is bad?
I have the same mower, but sometimes I only get 10v going toy orange wire going to solenoid, then sometimes I get 12v. It still doesn't engage the solenoid. I've replaced the battery and solenoid. No lights come on stations a parking brake is set. What am I missing?
@@TightWadDIY I could not. I found that the positive lug was never crimped and wire was pulled mostly out of the lug. Which gave me 12v at the solenoid but was too much resistance for current to flow. Once I fixed that I was good. The lug had tape over it. So it was not visible until I took the tape off. Very frustrating. Thank you for responding back.
I have this same mower, 2007 model. I got it on Facebook marketplace, got it home and turned the key and the parking break light came on. So I watched this video and ordered a new switch. Got the new switch today, put it on and when I turned the key, it's still showing the parking break light. Are there fuses or something for the parking break or could there be an issue in the transmissions causing the parking break issue?
In your video you mention disconnecting the seat switch to make the seat believe you're still on it. But if i disconnect that the blades won't engage. How does the seat know i'm actually on it - maybe this is a better way to ask it
I started my mower. Got off and went got the ramps. Get back on the mower and take off. I forgot to take the break off and it dies. Do I restart it and nothing but a click. What did I do?
Parking brake switch problem also but on a Husqvarna. My switch is ok, but something missing on the linkage that depresses it, looking for a picture of what it should look like.
@@TightWadDIY The crux of the problem on this Husqvarna seems to be the brake handle aft end acts as a cam to operate the switch, and seems to be slightly out of alignment.
@@TightWadDIY I figured out the link between the brake handle arm and switch is worn smooth, no longer held in place by tiny nubs that keyhole into position. www.ahupd.com/539132424-husqvarna-linkage-brake
You referred me to the same video, but you said there's no real way to test the safety switches, that just because they push in doesn't mean they work (handlebars). You said the parking brake was probably the culprit. I don't have a cub cadet that you have that is equipped with a sensor dashboard that lights to indicate if my brake is on or not. How did you test it? With a multimeter?
Hi, I have the red light on for the parking brake both when the park is off or on, mower wont start. How in the world did you get that switch out with a screw driver? Do you know of another way to get the switch out. John
It was a broken wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid. I found by testing the solonoid. It was good. Next I tested for power to the solenoid, no power, so I just ran a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid. However I don't think I solved the original problem since it will only start by jumping the starter solenoid. I can mow but I have to jump the fuel cutoff solenoid and the starter solenoid. Also I tested for power to the signal wire on the starter solenoid and nothing there hence the jump.im guessing the battery grounded on the body and shorted something somewhere I just gotta find the short.
SO I have the same cub cadet. my blades wont engage when i bring the control arms in. It has been going out for a while, I could milk it in to get it to engage. Is it the safety switch at the base of the arms or the control arm safety? How can you check them?
Tom Northam It sounds like it’s the switch at the base of the arms. Here is a video I made showing how to test a switch. ruclips.net/video/TGyxaxl46SQ/видео.html
I’m not positive but I doubt it. That one uses both functions. It’s required to be pressed in to start the mower but has to be released before you can move the handles to move the mower forward. It cuts the motor off if you try to move forward while the parking brake is engaged.
RTZS 42. It shows "low battery" code and cranks like crazy but won't attempt to fire. My dealer changed the battery twice and now my warranty is up. Can I remove this sensor somehow and avoid buying a battery every year?
Tommy Green Hey, Tommy. I would recommend seeing if you have a Batteries+ nearby. They sell both Battery Tender and another comparable charger. You can also find them on Amazon if you need to. These brands of charger maintain your battery at full charge and charge on demand or "float". This greatly increases the life of your battery and prevents the "low battery" code after the off season. I am not aware of a way to remove the low battery warning on your mower. Your local dealer did you a disservice by not telling you about the float chargers previously.
@@TightWadDIY I believe that they are talking about the hour meter and the four lights that surround the lcd screen. The light that indicated you did not have the parking brake set when you actually did. I have the same problem. When I turn my key I don't get any read-out on the hour meter or any of the surrounding lights. Do you think that would be the ignition switch itself? And how would you go about checking that?
Unfortunately, it could mean several things. Check to make sure your battery is charged though. Also check the in line fuse between the battery and the solenoid.
@@TightWadDIY yes I turn the key and it doesn’t click or anything the only light that comes on is the PTO. I just replaced the battery and it still won’t turn on
@@kirstinseaman6661 I just tried some things on mine. The handles being up or down didn’t trigger that light, they made the Parking Brake light come on. I turned on my PTO and tried to start, the PTO light came on but I also had a loud click. Did you jumping your solenoid to see if it turns over?
I would need more information to help. Do you have a model number? If it is belt driven, you likely have an issue with the drive pulley if it won't move at all.
@@TightWadDIY Mine looks about like yours.ZRT 50 22 hp B&S about 15 yr old. I took the deck off and it wasn't bad to get to it. 3 sets of 2 prongs / 6 total. Mine starts after i move the controls, arms / brake / etc. The arm safety switches were replaced about 2 years ago and the ignition switch. Can i ground 2 of them on the brake switch wires? And which ones would it be to bypass it ?
Andrew Blunier Haha. I never even noticed it was a John Deere key! That is funny. I bought this second hand and probably haven't ever taken the key out.
Is the brake safety switch the same part number as that of the ones on the operator control arms? I was looking the weingartz site over and over and I could not find a part that referenced that specific switch. I am guessing they are all three the same, just looking for confirmation
Michael Jude I haven’t checked part numbers but I assume they are the same. It is always your best bet to call cub cadet and ask them. They are very helpful on the phone.
Figured it out some half-ass mechanic was trying to diagnose a bad fuel pump and started cutting wires I have power to the coil but not power to the solenoid on the carburetor or to the hour meter
TightWadRepairs , yes i have one. im getting plus/minus 12v for the battery. 12v on the first post on the solenoid. only reading i get on the 2nd post is if i put the pos on the forward post and neg on rear post. but meter reads negative 12v
lets start from the beginning. the mower has been giving me trouble for awhile when i start it but after a few tries it would fire up. i parked it and now nothing. i get a single click when key is turned to on . bypassed solenoid. starter engaged but never cranked. i cjecked volt regulator and im getting 12v
I have a cub cadet 0 turn and. I have a good clutch, a brand new pto switch, I checked all the switches and it seems they're ok. I put some power to the clutch and it works, but when I turn on my brand new pto switch, the pto doesn't engage. Does anybody know what could be the problem?
I know it’s old post, but it’s probably the reverse mowing safety switch. Stops it from cutting in reverse, and the switch, or the metal tabs that push them down are bad! I just fixed this same issue.
i have a john deere zero turn mower model # Z225 made in 2007. i have a reverse issue on the safety switches on my mower. It will crank with the parking lever on and both steering handles to the outside. When i try to release the park brake it shuts the mower off or when i try to move one of the steering handles (either one) it shuts off. what causes this?
TheMuscles77 I'm not really sure on that model. I know on mine if I release the parking break while the handles are out, I cuts off. I have to pull the handles in then release the break.
POS Bought the 54" rtzl brand new 2018 for $2800. it has 68hrs. Has trouble starting. Have to pour a little gas to the carburetor. Blades are too thin and wear out fast. Control arms are out of alignment even after adjusting them. I just spent 2 hours trying to fix this issue to no avail. The springs attached to the arms are incredibly hard to put back on. First you must attach a heavy gauge spring with a really small opening to a hook which is almost impossible to reach due to the small opening to install. I got it hooked ONE time using a coat hanger to find that it is 2" below the hole for the bolt. Again the gauge of the spring is too hard to stretch. there is no way to leverage. I gave up and now have no mower. The spark plugs and oil filter are hard to reach as well. Very poor engineering and design. Go with a different brand and save yourself a lot of time, money, and stress!!!
Default Name I’m sorry to hear you have had so much trouble. 68hrs is a lot to put on a residential mower in one season. I would never recommend using a residential (home owner) quality mower for a landscaping business. They are cheaper because they aren’t made to handle that type of work load.
I am using it to mow my residence about 5 acres. According to tractor supply that is what its rated for. I live in texas where grass grows march - November and I have aleady started using it this season [68 divided by 10 = 6.8 a month]. I have had issues from the very get go [starting]. The majority of the issues are design and quality of engine
Most of what you have here is correct. However, you state that on this mower if the parking brake light is illuminated then there is a problem. That is not true. The light is illuminated any time the parking brake is engaged. It needs to be engaged in order to start. So it's illuminated, it should start and you don't have a bad switch. Not sure how you fixed the problem but according to your video it IS NOT the parking brake switch. I have the same mower.
Cheap Dad You are incorrect. On this model, if the parking brake is engaged, the light should be off. The lights are indicators showing what you need to do to crank the mower. If the light is red, your mower is not ready to crank.
Excellent information. People like you encourage us to save money and to challenge ourself. Thanks and God Bless
Glad it was helpful!
I had a solonoid click only, I removed the starter and found the top bearing seized and could be barely turned. so I dissembled the starter all but the armeture , housing and bottom end plate, I then carefully wire brushed the top armeture shaft at the bearing point and reassembled it and it worked perfectly.
Very thorough and straight. Believe this is my issue as well.
Thanks for the kind comment.
Always Check your seat switch and control arm switches first since they are much easier to get to. Mine was throwing a "park brake" light as well and it was the right side control arm switch. Always start with the easy stuff first Mine has two park break safety switches that are in the same spot as this one held on by 2 5/16 bolts . No need to remove battery but you do have to stick your arm in from the back and blindly unscrew starting with the bottom switch first. Once you get both bolts out of the switches there is enough wire to pull them out into view still connected. Pull the switches off the connectors and use a multimeter to check continuity. 2 of the poles should read open when switch is not engaged and 2 should show continuity. Once the switch is pressed you should see the opposite condition.
Shred Warrior Thank you for sharing your experience. There is no way to get your arm into this mower to remove the seat switches. It’s fully blocked by the battery and gas tank. The wires also aren’t long enough to pull the switch out into view. There are several designs for this mower.
Good point on yours I am fortunate to have the design where the fuel tank is under the wheel well. I didn’t notice the different configuration when I watched your video the first time. Thanks for pointing that out. A wise man once told me always check the simple stuff first or as Carl Childers says “it ain’t got no gas in it umm humm”....
I have the Troy Built version of this mower and I am getting the "Park Brake" light as well. Mine has 2 of the parking brake safety switches stacked on top of each other. I replaced the switches and still have the same issue. I will now try testing the control arm switches after reading this. Hopefully that is my problem. If not, what else could this be?
@@D22South I'm having the same problem, what did you finally do to fix it? This is very aggravating!
glad to have found you. have almost identical mower. someone rewired it to remove all the safty switches, and now, battery has to be charged each time.. first thing I noticed, you do not have "extra wires" on you battery post, like mine does.. somewhere, something is draining me.
Mr. Randy Interesting. I would like to disable the switches that cut the PTO off when I go in reverse but the others are helpful. I'm not sure what could be drawing power. You never know what they wired incorrectly. Maybe you could buy a battery tender that will keep your battery at full capacity when not in use. They make your battery last much longer anyway so it would be a great investment.
I'm having a similar issue with my RZT 22... about a month ago I had to order a new ignition switch for it and then about a week and a half ago i was on a property and shut it off to fill up the gas tank... it wouldn't start back up... I found that I could jumper the solenoid to get it going to hopefully just finish out the season since we've only got like 3 or 4 weeks left but I was only able to do that until this past monday when that stopped starting it... I replaced the solenoid and did determine the orange wire that you were pointing to is part of the problem... personally I feel these mowers have WAAAAAAAAAAAAY to many safety switches on them... if you're not an idiot then all you really need is the parking break safety switch... nice video btw... pretty much confirmed what I was thinking for mine... MTD really needs to include a hatch that we can remove to easily get to under the seat.
Mmmmmmm ?????? Some 1 needs 2 come n said some
Cornthwaite Lawn Care was
Thanks for your video. How did you test the safety switch to know that it was bad?
I have another video showing how to test safety switches.
@@TightWadDIY thanks for letting us know where it is?
I am getting a cub cadet from my son . He said it will not start. I looked at your video to see what I need to check and will reply if I fix it.
I can’t wait to hear your success story!
You get it workin?
I had rzt 50 that had no click, and no power to key switch. Searched, traced wires even trid new solenoid even though old one test ok. Was at a loss. Finally pulled all the wires and all the switches from under the seat and insde the black fenders and had everything hanging off the side including the solenoid. With everything right there in front of me I set all the switches as they would be if I was starting the machine. After lubing switches and spraying with electronic cleaner, i connected the battery to see what I could find by wiggling wires and/or pushing or pulling switches etc. But I thought I’d turnthe key just to see if srarter would engage. To my complete surprise, it did. I’m thinking by removing and moving everything around there may have been a switch stuck or something grounded that needed to be dislodged. Everything is back in place and switch is still powered. I wish I could say I found the exact problem but it’s stii a mystery to me. Power was going to solenoid and fuse wire was powered but not at switch. Led me to believe a wire problem from fuse to switch but with everything hard to reach under the seat, I decided to pull it all where I could see it. Whatever happened, it seems okay now. Hope this helps somebody who might have same issue.
Glad it worked out!
Great video to show the problem and how to resolve. Wish my Husqvarna had that four-light panel to show where the problem is. It will start cold, but once hot turning the key does nothing - acting like a safety switch cutoff. Needs several hours to cool down to allow whatever switch to reset and allow a restart.
That parking brake switch is a pain in the @$$. Most times the brake is not required at all since you're sitting level. But you have to set it just to start. Since the levers have to be in neutral to start as well, there's no chance the mower can just take off when started. This "safety" is to the manufacturers, not the users. The other three switches make some sense. Not this one. And what a pain to remove! Levering clips always has a chance to break them, meaning another part to replace.
The seat safety switch will kill the engine whenever it's not engaged, starting or running. But the other switches only inhibit starting, not running. How does that work?
I totally get your frustration.
@@TightWadDIY Thanks. At least the switches are fairly accessible.
I can work around this by making sure I finish mowing before shutting down. But still. I don't have the inclination to troubleshoot this, but if I take it to the shop it'll have to be "hot" for them to isolate.
I have the same mower and after removing the battery there was no clear view of the switch. It would be really great to have more detail on access to the switch.
The view at 5:20 in the video was the view from the battery location towards the front of the mower. The gray box farthest from the camera is the back side of the switch. Is there something in the way on your mower?
+TightWadRepairs
Yes. part of the bottom of the seat frame completely blocks the view on mine. I think mine may be a year older than yours as I just noticed the hour meter looks a little different. All else looks identical though.
+Kevin Hayes Wow. That makes things difficult. Sounds like you would have to remove your gas tank instead.
Yes. I think so. Thank for the tips. Great video!
Have you had a problem with your , running for a while then dying out , all systems are go & new . rec fuel...
new coils , vented fuel cap... thx
I haven’t. Sounds like something is overheating.
What would you say to someone that is getting the same trouble light but I've replaced the switch twice with no improvement. Is there a simple way to by pass this all the way? Desperate!!
It could be a different switch. I’ve had issues with the parking brake switch too. I don’t know of a way to bypass all of them. You could try jumping the solenoid to start it.
How much do these go for? I seen one where the guy was asking $500 and said it has spark but won't start. Thought it might be worth it if it has compression.
I have no idea. $500 sounds about right if it is running.
Is there a way to just disable the parking brake sensor and the two sensors for the handle bars?
No. But you can disable the reverse switches by popping them out of their holes.
@@TightWadDIY yeah I seen that. After I removed them to replace them and noticed they had 4 wires going in instead of two. Thanks for the reply though.
My tractor will turn over and run when I turn the key to the start position, but as soon as I release it to the run position, the engine shuts down.
Mine too. Ever figure it out?
Nice videoI. have a Cub Cadet ltx1046 where I was fighting similar issues this morning. I disconnected all the safety switches( just did not want to use them ) but then narrowed it down to a bad ignition switch. This is my 3rd Cub Cadet, so I do like the brand. But I have heard the these ignition switches are prone to fail. Thanks for a good video.
Thank you for the additional input.
I have a 2005 Cub cadet zero turn. I have changed fuses, and put new battery on it. The lights won't come on for the battery and it still won't crank. What else do I need to check ?
Do you have the part numbers for starter solenoid and the brake safety switch
Each model is different. You can download the parts manual online or look up the part numbers on the Cub Cadet website using your mower model number found under the seat.
Great video buddy I have almost the same unit sitting here in front of me right now new starter solenoid not the ignition switch as I have switched it with another tractor I'm not getting power to my hour meter I'm getting no lightsit will run the engine with the ignition switch on if you jump the solenoid will not start with key will not stay running I'll make it stay running I can deal with the carburetor I'm guessing a ground or maybe a mouse chewed a wire
Fred Stone Do you get 12V to the solenoid from the key switch when you turn the key?
@@TightWadDIY highly doubtful because no power to hour meter or warning lights. I ran out of time last night. I'll be leaving in time to really check it out. What are you thinking? Thanks for the reply
Fred Stone You may have to start checking safety switches. It can be a pain to remove each one but I’m betting one of them is bad. I’ve had to remove and clean my parking brake safety switch twice.
@@TightWadDIY I hear you buddy but I don't think that that would cause the condition where I don't have power to any of the lights but yet with the key on it does energize the coil
@@TightWadDIY I do appreciate you getting back and I want any help you can give I'm just trying to let you know exactly the symptoms I'm looking at I was checking out your channel man I really like it we're out on the farm now and time to start thinking more that way
My mower dosent have a parking brake and I havent seen slsafety switches associated with the handle bars steerage though they must be in the open pos IU tion to crank the mower.
Interesting. How old is your mower?
@@TightWadDIY 3 years old. Bought it ne. Home depot
@@frankdavis3486 I wonder if it’s like the newer golf carts that don’t have a parking break. It’s cool tech.
Well, my cub dosent have a parking brake. So, I cant say what the issue is.
I have a few questions my zero turn wouldn't start either and I replace the new solenoid just wondering is there an actual way to hook up the solenoid because of the two post or shouldn't it matter
Jake Friesen Yes. It needs to be set up a certain way. The cable from the battery goes on the left side, and the other thicker cable going to the starter goes on the right. The smaller cable from the key switch goes to the spade.
I have a cub cadet m50s, runs fine but when i turn the deck on via electronic PTO the mower shuts down?
Check to make sure the blades spin freely when the mower is off. Make sure nothing is binding.
@@TightWadDIY i believe the park brake switch is bad.
@@oSTYNCLSYo If the parking brake switch doesn’t work, you won’t be able to start the mower without jumping the solenoid.
@@TightWadDIY it starts with the park brake engaged but when you release the park break the mower dies, so i unplug the switch and it keeps running. So maybe a switch somewhere else is bad?
I have the same mower, but sometimes I only get 10v going toy orange wire going to solenoid, then sometimes I get 12v. It still doesn't engage the solenoid. I've replaced the battery and solenoid. No lights come on stations a parking brake is set. What am I missing?
Can you jump the solenoid and get it to start?
@@TightWadDIY I could not. I found that the positive lug was never crimped and wire was pulled mostly out of the lug. Which gave me 12v at the solenoid but was too much resistance for current to flow. Once I fixed that I was good. The lug had tape over it. So it was not visible until I took the tape off. Very frustrating.
Thank you for responding back.
@@keeperap I’m glad you discovered the issue.
I have this same mower, 2007 model. I got it on Facebook marketplace, got it home and turned the key and the parking break light came on. So I watched this video and ordered a new switch. Got the new switch today, put it on and when I turned the key, it's still showing the parking break light. Are there fuses or something for the parking break or could there be an issue in the transmissions causing the parking break issue?
Make sure your handles are in the down position when you try to start it. There aren’t any other fuses that I’m aware of.
I have the same exact mower. I think my seat doesn't know im sitting on it... how does it know? Where is the switch?
In your video you mention disconnecting the seat switch to make the seat believe you're still on it. But if i disconnect that the blades won't engage. How does the seat know i'm actually on it - maybe this is a better way to ask it
I started my mower. Got off and went got the ramps. Get back on the mower and take off. I forgot to take the break off and it dies. Do I restart it and nothing but a click. What did I do?
Parking brake switch problem also but on a Husqvarna. My switch is ok, but something missing on the linkage that depresses it, looking for a picture of what it should look like.
W Rigg You should be able to find a parts layout for it.
@@TightWadDIY The crux of the problem on this Husqvarna seems to be the brake handle aft end acts as a cam to operate the switch, and seems to be slightly out of alignment.
W Rigg That’s how the one on my MTD rider operated too. Is it possibly the switch shifted and the parking brake is actually functioning properly?
@@TightWadDIY I figured out the link between the brake handle arm and switch is worn smooth, no longer held in place by tiny nubs that keyhole into position. www.ahupd.com/539132424-husqvarna-linkage-brake
Where can I buy this parking brake switch m? Can’t find it anywhere what’s the part number
How do you disengage safely switch on steering handles
Billy Jolly I haven’t successfully done that. I would love to disable the ones that cut off the blades when reversing.
I have an idea. I’m going to try it after work today. I will post a video if it works.
You referred me to the same video, but you said there's no real way to test the safety switches, that just because they push in doesn't mean they work (handlebars). You said the parking brake was probably the culprit. I don't have a cub cadet that you have that is equipped with a sensor dashboard that lights to indicate if my brake is on or not. How did you test it? With a multimeter?
Here is the video. ruclips.net/video/TGyxaxl46SQ/видео.html
My tractor will turn over and run when I turn the key to the start position, but as soon as I release it to the run position, the engine shuts down.
@@JuanPerez-xi9zj it sounds like there may be something wrong with the key switch but I can’t be sure.
Hi, I have the red light on for the parking brake both when the park is off or on, mower wont start. How in the world did you get that switch out with a screw driver? Do you know of another way to get the switch out. John
It could possibly be your switches on your handles too. Are your handles all the way down?
Reach your hand in an grab it push up or down its in a slot not all that tite .
Thanks for the tips i have the same mower same problem.
enlighten You are welcome. Let us know what is wrong when you discover your issue.
It was a broken wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid. I found by testing the solonoid. It was good. Next I tested for power to the solenoid, no power, so I just ran a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid. However I don't think I solved the original problem since it will only start by jumping the starter solenoid. I can mow but I have to jump the fuel cutoff solenoid and the starter solenoid. Also I tested for power to the signal wire on the starter solenoid and nothing there hence the jump.im guessing the battery grounded on the body and shorted something somewhere I just gotta find the short.
My sisters boyfriend just bought one brand new and the lights wont come on.. any advice?? PLEASE n TY :)
talkingalwayz If it’s brand new, I would take it back. It could be as simple as a loose battery cable.
SO I have the same cub cadet. my blades wont engage when i bring the control arms in. It has been going out for a while, I could milk it in to get it to engage. Is it the safety switch at the base of the arms or the control arm safety? How can you check them?
Tom Northam It sounds like it’s the switch at the base of the arms. Here is a video I made showing how to test a switch. ruclips.net/video/TGyxaxl46SQ/видео.html
There’s one of these for sale in my area for $650 hes asking and has no start issue… wonder if it’s worth getting for $500 and trying to fix it
If it’s not working I would offer even lower. Should be at a “for parts only” price.
@@TightWadDIY what’s a good price to start?
@@moderngod1 I’d offer $200.
How do you replace the PTO switch
It depends on the mower.
Is there a way to bypass the parking brake switch?
I’m not positive but I doubt it. That one uses both functions. It’s required to be pressed in to start the mower but has to be released before you can move the handles to move the mower forward. It cuts the motor off if you try to move forward while the parking brake is engaged.
RTZS 42. It shows "low battery" code and cranks like crazy but won't attempt to fire. My dealer changed the battery twice and now my warranty is up. Can I remove this sensor somehow and avoid buying a battery every year?
Tommy Green Hey, Tommy. I would recommend seeing if you have a Batteries+ nearby. They sell both Battery Tender and another comparable charger. You can also find them on Amazon if you need to. These brands of charger maintain your battery at full charge and charge on demand or "float". This greatly increases the life of your battery and prevents the "low battery" code after the off season. I am not aware of a way to remove the low battery warning on your mower. Your local dealer did you a disservice by not telling you about the float chargers previously.
I pressed that safety switch with my finger and the mower starts then. Does this tell me that the switch is bad then?
Most switches need to be pressed to start the mower.
i have same mower but i am having issues the 4 lights not working, is there a fuse do you know of that is for them or not?
Sewingmom What four lights?
@@TightWadDIY I believe that they are talking about the hour meter and the four lights that surround the lcd screen. The light that indicated you did not have the parking brake set when you actually did. I have the same problem. When I turn my key I don't get any read-out on the hour meter or any of the surrounding lights. Do you think that would be the ignition switch itself? And how would you go about checking that?
David Trimble It could be the ignition switch. This guy does a decent job explaining how to test it. ruclips.net/video/q8G7kxCl9hY/видео.html
How did you test the safety switch?
timmothy lewis Here is another video showing how to test safety switches. ruclips.net/video/TGyxaxl46SQ/видео.html
I really like it nice machine...
About how much would the switch cost
$10-$20
If i try to turn the mower on and the battery light turns on what can i do to fix it
Unfortunately, it could mean several things. Check to make sure your battery is charged though. Also check the in line fuse between the battery and the solenoid.
i need a brake safty swith where do i order one?
Which brand of mower and what is the model number?
What should I do if the PTO light comes on and the blade is not engaged?
Do you mean that light comes on when you are trying to crank the mower?
@@TightWadDIY yes I turn the key and it doesn’t click or anything the only light that comes on is the PTO. I just replaced the battery and it still won’t turn on
@@kirstinseaman6661 I just tried some things on mine. The handles being up or down didn’t trigger that light, they made the Parking Brake light come on. I turned on my PTO and tried to start, the PTO light came on but I also had a loud click. Did you jumping your solenoid to see if it turns over?
@@TightWadDIY No I’m a little nervous to do that, I don’t have the same tool you have to make the sparks. Thank you so much for your quick responses!
@@kirstinseaman6661 Do you have a multimeter?
hey bud, I have a 2013 craftsman riding mower that won't move forward or reverse. what can it be?
I would need more information to help. Do you have a model number? If it is belt driven, you likely have an issue with the drive pulley if it won't move at all.
+TightWadRepairs idk the model number but it starts fine the deck works fine also but the mower won't move at all.
+brans I recommend posting your issue with your model number on mylawnforum.com They are very helpful with a variety of mower issues.
TightWadRepairs should *((‘“
thanks for the information
You are welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
Can i get to the brake switch, when i remove the deck?
ccdirectt vdllc Not on my model. I had to remove the battery and reach in from the back end.
@@TightWadDIY Mine looks about like yours.ZRT 50 22 hp B&S about 15 yr old. I took the deck off and it wasn't bad to get to it. 3 sets of 2 prongs / 6 total. Mine starts after i move the controls, arms / brake / etc. The arm safety switches were replaced about 2 years ago and the ignition switch. Can i ground 2 of them on the brake switch wires? And which ones would it be to bypass it ?
@@TightWadDIY This is the part no. for mine. MTD 725-04232 Switch-3 Pole Nc
is that a 3 point hitch on back
Charles Hutson No. you may have seen the bracket used to attach the grass catcher bags.
I like the John Deere key
Andrew Blunier Haha. I never even noticed it was a John Deere key! That is funny. I bought this second hand and probably haven't ever taken the key out.
I have same mower and videos on replacing deck lift cables?
Sorry, Nick. I haven't made it that far yet with this mower. Be sure to subscribe so you will be able to find more videos as a post them.
@@TightWadDIY 44444444rr4tt
Is the brake safety switch the same part number as that of the ones on the operator control arms? I was looking the weingartz site over and over and I could not find a part that referenced that specific switch. I am guessing they are all three the same, just looking for confirmation
Michael Jude I haven’t checked part numbers but I assume they are the same. It is always your best bet to call cub cadet and ask them. They are very helpful on the phone.
Anyone with any other great ideas I would really appreciate some help
Figured it out some half-ass mechanic was trying to diagnose a bad fuel pump and started cutting wires I have power to the coil but not power to the solenoid on the carburetor or to the hour meter
All fixed and paid for now
My dad took his mower to the Cub Cadet shop and had them disable all of the safety switches.
Probably not the best idea on their part. if someone gets hurt they are liable now. no cub cadet dealer I know of would do that
when trying to by pass the solenoid, i barely get any sparks and it drags when turning.
Jeremy Karber So you get nothing when you turn the key then a slow turn over when you bypass the solenoid? Do you have a multimeter?
TightWadRepairs , yes i have one. im getting plus/minus 12v for the battery. 12v on the first post on the solenoid. only reading i get on the 2nd post is if i put the pos on the forward post and neg on rear post. but meter reads negative 12v
lets start from the beginning. the mower has been giving me trouble for awhile when i start it but after a few tries it would fire up. i parked it and now nothing. i get a single click when key is turned to on . bypassed solenoid. starter engaged but never cranked. i cjecked volt regulator and im getting 12v
Jeremy Karber I can't be sure but it sounds like the starter is bad.
TightWadRepairs thay makes sense but i was confused on the starter engaging when i very first bypassed the solenoid.
I have a cub cadet 0 turn and. I have a good clutch, a brand new pto switch, I checked all the switches and it seems they're ok. I put some power to the clutch and it works, but when I turn on my brand new pto switch, the pto doesn't engage. Does anybody know what could be the problem?
I'm not sure about that one. Try posting your issue on mytractorforum.com There are some mower techs on there that could likely help.
I know it’s old post, but it’s probably the reverse mowing safety switch. Stops it from cutting in reverse, and the switch, or the metal tabs that push them down are bad! I just fixed this same issue.
Wiring probably a ground maybe a break between the PTO switch and the clutch
What is the part number?
It really depends on your mower. You can find part numbers on the Cub cadet website though.
i have a john deere zero turn mower model # Z225 made in 2007. i have a reverse issue on the safety switches on my mower. It will crank with the parking lever on and both steering handles to the outside. When i try to release the park brake it shuts the mower off or when i try to move one of the steering handles (either one) it shuts off. what causes this?
TheMuscles77 I'm not really sure on that model. I know on mine if I release the parking break while the handles are out, I cuts off. I have to pull the handles in then release the break.
My starter turns ,but the engine doesn't fire. What's next
Check your air filter, spark plug, fuel filter, and fuel lines.
My mower cuts off when I release the brake what's wrong
darrick johnson That is most likely a seat switch issue. The mower thinks nobody is sitting on the seat so it cuts off.
Eli Byrns It could also be related to your switches on your steering handles.
You didn’t show us how to put the switch back on
I have the exact mower fuze is good bat is new but wont crank or click what shoukd i be looking at
Lucas Swank Check the solenoid.
Did u mount urs there or is it factory cuz myen isnt there
Lucas Swank That is the factory location on my model. There are several different versions of the same mower though.
Lucas Swank Follow the red wire from your battery. It will go straight to the Solenoid.
TightWadRepairs myen is located under the seat this should be fun
POS Bought the 54" rtzl brand new 2018 for $2800. it has 68hrs. Has trouble starting. Have to pour a little gas to the carburetor. Blades are too thin and wear out fast.
Control arms are out of alignment even after adjusting them. I just spent 2 hours trying to fix this issue to no avail. The springs attached to the arms are incredibly hard to put back on. First you must attach a heavy gauge spring with a really small opening to a hook which is almost impossible to reach due to the small opening to install. I got it hooked ONE time using a coat hanger to find that it is 2" below the hole for the bolt. Again the gauge of the spring is too hard to stretch. there is no way to leverage. I gave up and now have no mower.
The spark plugs and oil filter are hard to reach as well.
Very poor engineering and design.
Go with a different brand and save yourself a lot of time, money, and stress!!!
Default Name I’m sorry to hear you have had so much trouble. 68hrs is a lot to put on a residential mower in one season. I would never recommend using a residential (home owner) quality mower for a landscaping business. They are cheaper because they aren’t made to handle that type of work load.
I am using it to mow my residence about 5 acres. According to tractor supply that is what its rated for. I live in texas where grass grows march - November and I have aleady started using it this season [68 divided by 10 = 6.8 a month]. I have had issues from the very get go [starting]. The majority of the issues are design and quality of engine
Default Name I understand. What motor does yours have?
Where is relay
Most of what you have here is correct. However, you state that on this mower if the parking brake light is illuminated then there is a problem. That is not true. The light is illuminated any time the parking brake is engaged. It needs to be engaged in order to start. So it's illuminated, it should start and you don't have a bad switch. Not sure how you fixed the problem but according to your video it IS NOT the parking brake switch. I have the same mower.
Cheap Dad You are incorrect. On this model, if the parking brake is engaged, the light should be off. The lights are indicators showing what you need to do to crank the mower. If the light is red, your mower is not ready to crank.