Sir i want to thank you for emphasizing not to over look corrosion. The corrosion was on the reset electrical connections. A little bit of sanding and T-9 and voila! My compressor is humming again!
What a great company in Rich is so fantastic helping! I had a unit I bought used and bought some lines from him and he has been so helpful in helping me get this thing running what an amazing company
Great information. I have a Danfoss 12 volt mini-frig and it will only cool to +20 and with a jumper +11. The upper line that has insulation and goes into the box has been bent and partially restricted. could that be the problem or is it over or under charged? The thermostat does not seem to control. Thanks for any help.
I would like to charge my Danfoss BD35F. There's three connectors labeled in the manual as "suction" , "discharge" and "process". The first two already have connections, presumably running to and from the cooling plate. I assume i recharge through the "process" connection? Thanks!
I'm refilling from zero, how long does it usually take per can? Seems like it'd been a hot minute on the first can. The can is definitely 30 degrees colder than ambient so I know it's going in.
Thank you, this was very informative. I was wondering, however, if I could reach out to you personally as I'm not yet sure about my compressor. It's different to yours, and the problem appears to be high refrigerant. I hope you can help. Thanks a lot!
I'd love to see a video of the site glass percolating then finally coming to stop after a correct charge is reached. I can't seem to find any video of the actual charging process and what the sight glass should actually look like when correctly charged ( I know you can't tell the difference between charge and overcharge). I just recently purchased this system and unfortunately lost a lot of refrigerant during the install due to a leak between the braze adapter and female coupling.
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Brysen Elliott Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Hi Peter The easy way is to use the soapy/sudsy bubble method liked used in checking for leaks on a new propane system install. Or you could buy a refrigerant sniffer from Harbor Freight for about $50.
Hello! Great videos! I know you said not to pay attention to the gauge, however when I turn my unit off, the pressure slowly rises to about 70, and then the unit will not restart. Do I need to use the jumper you mentioned in vid #2 when refilling? I am also working with the old compressor. Thank you!!!
Hi Luc The vapor pressure of R134a is about 65psi, so when the compressor is off and the holding plate defrosts to room temperature both the low and high sides will equalize out at about 65-60psi. On the older CoolBlue units that have their speed set at HIGH by the resister wired into the thermostat circuit, the trick for a warm plate start-up is indeed to remove the thermostat leads on the back of the controller (No 1 and 3 when counting up from the bottom, there is nothing on space connect No 2) and put a jumper wire in. Without the 1500ohm resister the compressor will start up and low speed and you will most likely avoid the high amp draw trip off error. Then after 4-5hrs you can put things back to normal and the unit will go back to taking care of itself. Cheers Rich
Sight glasses are completely useless for determining R-134a "state of charge" even in properly engineered systems much less clusterfucks like that. Which is why R-134a AC systems haven't had sight glasses for at least a decade IF you buy OEM "vehicle" manufacturer components. And a "full charge" of R-134a in a "converted" R-12 system is 80% of R-12 by weight. And the ONLY way to accurately - and PRECISELY - charge R-134a systems is by weight into an EVACUATED - VACUUM PUMPED - system. A "vapor charge" is complete bullshit. There is no way to "empty" a system completely without evacuating it to a "perfect vacuum" and long enough to boil out all moisture. What you have there is a clusterfuck using a home refrigeration compressor and a mobile AC receiver-drier. As for compressors not being made to "suck" LIQUID REFRIGERANT I'D SURE AS HELL LIKE TO KNOW WTF A CONDENSER DOES IF NOT TURN REFRIGERANT "VAPOR" INTO LIQUID REFRIGERANT PRIOR TO IT GOING INTO THE COMPRESSOR. WHICH IS 100% A LIQUID PUMP AND "COMPRESSES" LIQUID REFRIGERANT INTO THE "HIGH SIDE" SO ITS READY TO BE EVAPORATED AGAIN. COMPRESSORS CANNOT "SUCK VAPOR" IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS NO "VACUUM" AND WHAT DAMAGES COMPRESSORS IS "HOT WIRING" THEM TO "SUCK VAPOR" AND BYPASSING THE PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCHES AND GETTING A PRESSURE SPIKE ON THE COMPRESSOR "SUCTION SIDE" ONCE THE SYSTEM IS OVERCHARGED WITH "VAPOR" AND THEN LIQUID AND HIGH SIDE PRESSURE SPIKES OVER 450 PSI. GM A-6 COMPRESSORS HAVE A "SUPERHEAT" COMPRESSOR PROTECTION SWITCH AND A "FUSIBLE LINK" IN THE CLUTCH POWER WIRE WHEN USED WITH EXPANSION VALVES AND RECEIVER-DRIERS INSTEAD OF ORIFICE TUBES AND ACCUMULATORS FOR A REASON. THEY'RE SO "STRONG" THEY'LL TAKE THOSE PRESSURES AND "BLOW" OTHER PARTS INSTEAD WHILE "SANDEN STYLE" COMPRESSORS WILL JUST SCATTER AND MUST HAVE HIGH-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES TO "POP OFF". JOHN DEERE AND CATERPILLAR "PERFECTED" THE A-6 COMPRESSOR FOR OFF-HIGHWAY USE IN AG AND CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT WHERE CAB "PRESSURIZATION" IS "STANDARD" AND DID SO BY IMPROVING - AT THEIR OWN COST - THE STOCK A6 SEAL AND ADDING THE "SUPERHEAT SWITCH" THAT ACTS BOTH AS A HIGH PRESSURE AND LOW PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH AND CLOSES TO "GROUND OUT" THE COMPRESSOR POWER FUSE AND INSTANTLY "BLOW" IT TO SWITCH OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND KEEP IT OFF UNTIL THE SYSTEM IS "SERVICED" AND THE PROBLEMS SOLVED. AND WHEN YOU SAY CHARGE STATE CAN'T BE DETERMINED WITH MANIFOLD GAUGES YOU'RE FULL OF IT. A TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE CHART SHOULD "MATCH" WHAT THE GAUGES READ IN AN EQUALIZED (I.E. TURNED OFF) SYSTEM. IF PRESSURE IS HIGHER OR LOWER THAN INDICATED FOR THE AMBIENT AIR TEMP THEN THERE IS EITHER EXCESSIVE OR INSUFFICIENT REFRIGERANT "COMPRESSED" WITHIN THAT "SEALED" SYSTEM. AND HIGH SIDE AND LOW SIDE OPERATIONAL PRESSURES SHOULD "MATCH" AS WELL IN A "STABILIZED" SYSTEM. AT LEAST IN A PROPERLY ENGINEERED SYSTEM AND NOT ONE SIMPLY "DESIGNED" WITH "OFF THE SHELF PARTS" TO TURN 1/2 A WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER AND A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AND A "COLD PLATE" FROM A REFRIGERATED DRINKING FOUNTAIN. THAT 2 CANS IS A "PERFECT CHARGE" FOR THAT "SYSTEM" REGARDLESS OF HOW FAR FROM THE "COMPRESSOR UNIT" THE "COLD PLATE" IS AND HOW LONG THE "CUSTOM MADE" COPPER LINES YOU "SUPPLY" ARE IS HILARIOUS. AS HILARIOUS AS USING A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AS AN "ACCUMULATOR" AND PLACING IT "UPSTREAM" OF IT BETWEEN THE CONDENSOR AND COMPRESSOR INSTEAD OF BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND EXPANSION VALVE AND...COLD PLATE. WHICH IS NOT AN EVAPORATOR. IF YOUR "SYSTEM" IS GUARANTEED TO LEAK AND NEED A "RECHARGE KIT" EVENTUALLY USING R-134a which by its nature requires a much "tighter" system than R-12/R-22 and is far more "charge critical" in a day and age when even R-12 "conversions" done by properly "trained" and equipped and experienced AMACA-certified HVAC techs "by the book" will "seamlessly" replace R-12 with as little or less "maintenance" then obviously you have no PLACE selling your "system" as a "refrigeration system" no matter how much BUSINESS you get doing so. Some people NEED rather than simply really really want the "convenience" of a refrigerator-freezer wherever they go to store VERY perishable substances without which THEY can "perish" so you should be a lot more careful of informing potential purchasers just how DURABLE your "system" is. Which is far more important than being "reliable". Anybody manufacturing ANY refrigeration equipment "guaranteed to fail" in a "few years" give or take couldn't and wouldn't call it "durable goods" and damn sure wouldn't make it "some assembly required".
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
Sir i want to thank you for emphasizing not to over look corrosion. The corrosion was on the reset electrical connections. A little bit of sanding and T-9 and voila! My compressor is humming again!
What a great company in Rich is so fantastic helping! I had a unit I bought used and bought some lines from him and he has been so helpful in helping me get this thing running what an amazing company
Thanks for posting these videos. Very helpful!
This video just saved me a ton of money, time and hassle. Thanks!
New Subscriber Here! 😃👋
Thank you, immensely helpful!
How long does it usually take for the compressor to take in a 12 oz. can of refrigerant?
Good Vid. new compressors. kubajel . no danfoss anymore. interesting. dip switches. things have changed a bit.
Thanks for this
Great information. I have a Danfoss 12 volt mini-frig and it will only cool to +20 and with a jumper +11. The upper line that has insulation and goes into the box has been bent and partially restricted. could that be the problem or is it over or under charged? The thermostat does not seem to control. Thanks for any help.
I would like to charge my Danfoss BD35F. There's three connectors labeled in the manual as "suction" , "discharge" and "process". The first two already have connections, presumably running to and from the cooling plate. I assume i recharge through the "process" connection? Thanks!
I'm refilling from zero, how long does it usually take per can? Seems like it'd been a hot minute on the first can. The can is definitely 30 degrees colder than ambient so I know it's going in.
Thank you, this was very informative. I was wondering, however, if I could reach out to you personally as I'm not yet sure about my compressor. It's different to yours, and the problem appears to be high refrigerant. I hope you can help. Thanks a lot!
I'd love to see a video of the site glass percolating then finally coming to stop after a correct charge is reached. I can't seem to find any video of the actual charging process and what the sight glass should actually look like when correctly charged ( I know you can't tell the difference between charge and overcharge). I just recently purchased this system and unfortunately lost a lot of refrigerant during the install due to a leak between the braze adapter and female coupling.
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can give me.
@Princeton Joshua Instablaster :)
@Brysen Elliott Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Brysen Elliott It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Princeton Joshua Glad I could help xD
Great video thanks. So if I can't add dye how would I find a leak if my system won't stay cold?
Hi Peter
The easy way is to use the soapy/sudsy bubble method liked used in checking for leaks on a new propane system install. Or you could buy a refrigerant sniffer from Harbor Freight for about $50.
Rich, do you make an ac system for sailboats? Or do you recommend a system?
Hello! Great videos! I know you said not to pay attention to the gauge, however when I turn my unit off, the pressure slowly rises to about 70, and then the unit will not restart. Do I need to use the jumper you mentioned in vid #2 when refilling? I am also working with the old compressor. Thank you!!!
Hi Luc
The vapor pressure of R134a is about 65psi, so when the compressor is off and the holding plate defrosts to room temperature both the low and high sides will equalize out at about 65-60psi. On the older CoolBlue units that have their speed set at HIGH by the resister wired into the thermostat circuit, the trick for a warm plate start-up is indeed to remove the thermostat leads on the back of the controller (No 1 and 3 when counting up from the bottom, there is nothing on space connect No 2) and put a jumper wire in. Without the 1500ohm resister the compressor will start up and low speed and you will most likely avoid the high amp draw trip off error. Then after 4-5hrs you can put things back to normal and the unit will go back to taking care of itself.
Cheers
Rich
Sight glasses are completely useless for determining R-134a "state of charge" even in properly engineered systems much less clusterfucks like that. Which is why R-134a AC systems haven't had sight glasses for at least a decade IF you buy OEM "vehicle" manufacturer components.
And a "full charge" of R-134a in a "converted" R-12 system is 80% of R-12 by weight. And the ONLY way to accurately - and PRECISELY - charge R-134a systems is by weight into an EVACUATED - VACUUM PUMPED - system. A "vapor charge" is complete bullshit. There is no way to "empty" a system completely without evacuating it to a "perfect vacuum" and long enough to boil out all moisture.
What you have there is a clusterfuck using a home refrigeration compressor and a mobile AC receiver-drier.
As for compressors not being made to "suck" LIQUID REFRIGERANT I'D SURE AS HELL LIKE TO KNOW WTF A CONDENSER DOES IF NOT TURN REFRIGERANT "VAPOR" INTO LIQUID REFRIGERANT PRIOR TO IT GOING INTO THE COMPRESSOR. WHICH IS 100% A LIQUID PUMP AND "COMPRESSES" LIQUID REFRIGERANT INTO THE "HIGH SIDE" SO ITS READY TO BE EVAPORATED AGAIN.
COMPRESSORS CANNOT "SUCK VAPOR" IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS NO "VACUUM" AND WHAT DAMAGES COMPRESSORS IS "HOT WIRING" THEM TO "SUCK VAPOR" AND BYPASSING THE PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCHES AND GETTING A PRESSURE SPIKE ON THE COMPRESSOR "SUCTION SIDE" ONCE THE SYSTEM IS OVERCHARGED WITH "VAPOR" AND THEN LIQUID AND HIGH SIDE PRESSURE SPIKES OVER 450 PSI.
GM A-6 COMPRESSORS HAVE A "SUPERHEAT" COMPRESSOR PROTECTION SWITCH AND A "FUSIBLE LINK" IN THE CLUTCH POWER WIRE WHEN USED WITH EXPANSION VALVES AND RECEIVER-DRIERS INSTEAD OF ORIFICE TUBES AND ACCUMULATORS FOR A REASON. THEY'RE SO "STRONG" THEY'LL TAKE THOSE PRESSURES AND "BLOW" OTHER PARTS INSTEAD WHILE "SANDEN STYLE" COMPRESSORS WILL JUST SCATTER AND MUST HAVE HIGH-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES TO "POP OFF".
JOHN DEERE AND CATERPILLAR "PERFECTED" THE A-6 COMPRESSOR FOR OFF-HIGHWAY USE IN AG AND CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT WHERE CAB "PRESSURIZATION" IS "STANDARD" AND DID SO BY IMPROVING - AT THEIR OWN COST - THE STOCK A6 SEAL AND ADDING THE "SUPERHEAT SWITCH" THAT ACTS BOTH AS A HIGH PRESSURE AND LOW PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH AND CLOSES TO "GROUND OUT" THE COMPRESSOR POWER FUSE AND INSTANTLY "BLOW" IT TO SWITCH OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND KEEP IT OFF UNTIL THE SYSTEM IS "SERVICED" AND THE PROBLEMS SOLVED.
AND WHEN YOU SAY CHARGE STATE CAN'T BE DETERMINED WITH MANIFOLD GAUGES YOU'RE FULL OF IT. A TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE CHART SHOULD "MATCH" WHAT THE GAUGES READ IN AN EQUALIZED (I.E. TURNED OFF) SYSTEM. IF PRESSURE IS HIGHER OR LOWER THAN INDICATED FOR THE AMBIENT AIR TEMP THEN THERE IS EITHER EXCESSIVE OR INSUFFICIENT REFRIGERANT "COMPRESSED" WITHIN THAT "SEALED" SYSTEM. AND HIGH SIDE AND LOW SIDE OPERATIONAL PRESSURES SHOULD "MATCH" AS WELL IN A "STABILIZED" SYSTEM.
AT LEAST IN A PROPERLY ENGINEERED SYSTEM AND NOT ONE SIMPLY "DESIGNED" WITH "OFF THE SHELF PARTS" TO TURN 1/2 A WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER AND A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AND A "COLD PLATE" FROM A REFRIGERATED DRINKING FOUNTAIN.
THAT 2 CANS IS A "PERFECT CHARGE" FOR THAT "SYSTEM" REGARDLESS OF HOW FAR FROM THE "COMPRESSOR UNIT" THE "COLD PLATE" IS AND HOW LONG THE "CUSTOM MADE" COPPER LINES YOU "SUPPLY" ARE IS HILARIOUS. AS HILARIOUS AS USING A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AS AN "ACCUMULATOR" AND PLACING IT "UPSTREAM" OF IT BETWEEN THE CONDENSOR AND COMPRESSOR INSTEAD OF BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND EXPANSION VALVE AND...COLD PLATE. WHICH IS NOT AN EVAPORATOR.
IF YOUR "SYSTEM" IS GUARANTEED TO LEAK AND NEED A "RECHARGE KIT" EVENTUALLY USING R-134a which by its nature requires a much "tighter" system than R-12/R-22 and is far more "charge critical" in a day and age when even R-12 "conversions" done by properly "trained" and equipped and experienced AMACA-certified HVAC techs "by the book" will "seamlessly" replace R-12 with as little or less "maintenance" then obviously you have no PLACE selling your "system" as a "refrigeration system" no matter how much BUSINESS you get doing so.
Some people NEED rather than simply really really want the "convenience" of a refrigerator-freezer wherever they go to store VERY perishable substances without which THEY can "perish" so you should be a lot more careful of informing potential purchasers just how DURABLE your "system" is. Which is far more important than being "reliable".
Anybody manufacturing ANY refrigeration equipment "guaranteed to fail" in a "few years" give or take couldn't and wouldn't call it "durable goods" and damn sure wouldn't make it "some assembly required".